MASTER 
NEGA  TIVE 
NO.  91-80241 


MICROFILMED  1992 
COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  IJBRARIES/NEW  YORK 


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AUTHOR: 


MURRAY,  JOHN  , 

PUBLISHER 


title:  HAND-BOOK  FOR 

TRAVELLERS  .... 


PLA  CE : 


LONDON 


DA  TE : 


1868 


Restrictions  on  Use: 


Master  Negative  # 


COLUMBIA  UNIVERSITY  LIBRARIES 
PRESERVATION  DEPARTMENT 

BIBLIOGRAPHIC  MICROFORM  TARGET 


Original  Material  as  Filmed  ~  Existing  Bibliographic  Record 


947.01 

xM96 


Murray^    John,    publisner,    London « 

Harid-bock  for  travellers  in  Russia^  Poland, 
ami  Finlard*  2d  rev.  ed.  «.»  London,  J.  Miir 
ra.y;   IlcfW  York^   Wiley;    c^^tvC,^,    etc. 3   1868. 

400  p.   Incl*   imp^   plan&»     2  fold*   maps. 

Compiled  by  Thomas  MLchell. 


/ 


TECHNICAL  MICROFORM  DATA 


REDUCTION     RATIO: 


FILM     SIZE: 5^!^_*^    „_„ 

IMAGE  PLACEMENT:    lA    'JlJ'     IB     IIB 

DATE      FILMED:^    9'  0-9/      INITI A  LS__|^_4f>^-_^_,. 

RLMED  BY;    RESEA"rCH  PUBLICATIONS,  INC  WOODBRIDGE.  CT 


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%&ryA. 


MURRAY^S      FOREIGN      HANDBOOKS. 


POPULAR    WORKS, 


TRAVEL  TALK,— English,  Frexch,  Germax,  and  Italian.    IGmo.    3s.  6d. 
NOKTIT  GERMANY— Holland,   Belgium,   Prussia,  and  the  Rhine  to 

SWITZLKLAXD.     Map.      Post  SVO.      105. 

SOUTH  GERMANY— The  Tyrol,  Ravaria,  Austria,  Salzburg,  Styria, 
HuNHAnv,  AND  The  Danube  FROM  Ui.M  TO  THE  Black  Si:\.   Map.  Post  8vo.  10<. 

SWITZEliLAND— The  Alps  of  Savoy  and  Piedmont.   :Nraps.  Post  8vo.  10s. 

FRANCE — Normandy,    Brittany,   The  French  Alps,   Dauphin f:,  Pko- 

VEXCK,    AND  THE  PyRKNEES.      Map3.      Post  SvO.      128. 

PARIS — AND  its  Environs.     Maps  and  Plans.     16mo.     35.  6d. 
♦»*  Murray's  Plan  of  Paris,  on  canvas^  35.  M. 
CORSICA  AND  SARDINIA.    Maps.    Post  8vo.    4.?. 
SPAIN — Andalusia,  Granada,  Madrid,  &c.     Maps.     2  vols.     Post  8to. 

24s. 

PORTUGAL — Lisbon,  Cintra,  Mafra,  Oporto,  &c.    Map.    Post  Svo.    O*. 

NORTH  ITALY — Piedmont,  Nice,  Lombardy,  Venice,  Parma,  Modena, 
andRomagna.     JIaps.     Post  Svo.     12«. 

CENTRAL  ITALY— Tuscany,  Florence,  Lucca,  Umbria,  The  Marches, 
ANDTHE  P.vnuMONY  OF  St.  Peter.     Map.    Post  Svo.     10s. 

RO^IE — and  ITS  Environs.     Map  and  Plans.    Post  Svo.    lOs. 

SOUTH  ITALY— Two  Sicilies,  Naples,  Pompeii,  Herculaneum,  Vesuvius, 
Abbuuzzi,  ito.     Maps.     PistSvo.    10*. 

SICILY — Palermo,  ;^[EssINA,  Catania,  Syracuse,  Etna,  and  the  Ruins 

OF  THE  Greek  Temples.     Plans.     Post  Svo.     I.'*. 

EGYPT— The  Nile,  Alexandria,  Cairo,  Thebes,  and  the  Overland 
Route  to  India.    I^ew  Edition.    Map.    Post  Svo.  [/» x^rcporation. 

GREECE— The  Ionian  Islands,  Athens,  Albania,  Thessaly,  and  Mace- 
donia.   Neio  Edition.     Map.    Post  Svo.  [In  prtjyaration. 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TURKEY.— Part  I.  Constantinople,  The  Bosphorus, 
Daudanfi-les,  Brousa,  and  Plain'  ok  Troy.      M.ip.    Post  Svo.    7s.  td. 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TURKEY.— Part  II.  Asia  IMinor,  The  Islands  of 
THE  .l^G^EAN,  Crei'f,  Cvniis— Smyhna  and  the  Skven  Churches,  Coasts  of 
THE  Black  Sea,  Armenia,  Me.-50Potamia,  ic.     Map.    Post  Svo. 

[Nearly  ready. 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TURKEY.— Part  III.  Turkey  in  Europe,  Bosnia, 
Servia,  Montenegro,  Buloakia,  Wallachia,  Moldavia,  <tc.    Map.   Post  Svo. 

[Ill  Preparation. 

DENMARK — Noravay',  Sweden,  and  Iceland.     Map.     Post  Svo.     I5s. 

RUSSIA— St.  Petersburg,  Moscoav,  Finland,  &c.    Maps.    Post  Svo.    15*. 

INDIA — Bombay  and  Madr-vs.     Map.    2  vols!    Post  Svo.    12*.  each. 

HOLY  LAND— Syria,  Palestine,  Sinai,  Edom,  and  the  Syrian  Deserts. 

Maps.     2  vols.     Post  Svo.     24«. 


X  *~»  ^x».yv/\yN/xr\/\/x*  X 


KNAPSACK  GUIDE  TO  SVriTZERLAND.    Map  and  Plans.    16mo.    5#. 

KNAPSACK  GUIDE  TO  NORWAY.     Map.     Post  Svo.    6*. 

KNAPSACK  GUIDE  TO  ITALY.     Map  and  Plans.     16mo.    6s. 

KNAPSACK  GUIDE  TO  THE  TYROL.    Plans.     IGmo.    6s. 
June,  1S71. 


ABERCROMBTE'3  INTELLECTUAL 
Powers.    Feap.  Svo.     iJ«.  6d. 

PHILOSOPHY    OP 

THE  Moral  Feelings.     Fcap,  Svo. 

2s.  6d. 

.SSOP'S  FABLES.  By  Br  v.  Thomas 
Jamks.  With  100  Woodcuts.  Post 
Svo.    2a.  6d. 

BYRON'S  CHILDE  HAROLD.  Wood- 
cuts.    Fcap.  Svo,     Is.  <fe  2$.  6d. 

COLERIDGE'S  TABLE  TALK.  Por- 
trait.   Fcap.  Svo.     Ss.  Cd. 

DAVY'S  CONSOLATIONS  IN  TRA- 
VEL.   Woodcuts.     Fcap.  Svo.    3«.  (id. 

SALMONIA.  Fcap.  Svo.  3s.  6d. 


GIFFARDS  DEEDS  OF  NAVAL 
Daring.    Fcap.  Svo.    'Ss.  Gd. 

HOLLWAY'S  MONTH  IN  NORWAY. 
Fcap.  Svo.     '28. 

JESSE'S  GLEANINGS  IN  NATURAL 
History.  Woodcuts.  Fcap.  Svo. 
3s.  6d. 

LIVINGSTONE'S  TRAVELS  IN  SOUTH 
AFRICA.   Woodcuts.     Post  Svo.     65. 

LOCKHART'S  ANCIENT  SPANISH 
Ballads.     Woodcuts.     Post  Svo.    5a. 

MAHON'S  "FORTY- FIVE;"  or.  The  Re- 
bellion IN  Scotland.  Post  Svo,  3a. 

MILMAN'S    FALL   OF  JERUSALEM. 

Fcap.  Svo.     la. 

SOUTHEY'S  BOOK  OF  THE  CHURCH. 
Post  Svo. 

NAPIER'S  BATTLES  OP  THE  PENIN- 
SULAR  WAR.  Portrait.  Post  Svo. 
9s. 

REJECTED  ADDRESSES.  By  Horace 
and  James  Smith.  Woodcuts.  Fcap. 
Svo.     3s.  Cd. 

ART  OF  TRAVEL.  By  Francis  Galton. 
Woodcuts.    Post  Svo.    7a,  6d. 

A  MANUALoF  SCIENTIFIC  ENQUIRY, 
for  the  Use  of  Travellers.  Maps,  &c 
Post  Svo.     3s.  Cd. 

THE  GREAT  SAHARA.  By  Rev,  H. 
B.  Tristram.  Illustrations.  Post 
Svo. 

FIVE  YEARS  IN  DAMASCUS.  <fec.  By 
Rev.  J.  L.  Porter.  Illustrations. 
Post  Svo.    7a.  Cd. 


THE    RIVER    AMAZONS.     By  H.  W. 
Bat£3.  Illustrations.    Post  Svo,    12». 


TRAVELS     IN 
AND   LAOS, 
lllustmtiona. 


SIAM.     CAMBODIA. 
Bv  Henri   Mouhot. 
2  Vola    Svo. 


SOUTH'S  HOUSEHOLD  SURGERY; 
or.  Hints  on  Emergencies.  Wood« 
cuts.     Fcap.  Svo.     4a.  Cd. 

WILKINSON'S  ANCIENT  EGYPTIANS. 
Woodcuts.     2  Vols.     Post  Svo.     12a. 

HERAT,  KHIVA,  BOKHARA,  ani> 
SAMARCAND.  ByARMiNius  Vam- 
BERY.     Illustrations.     Svo.     21a. 

GREECE :  Descriptive,  and  Historical. 
By  Bishop  Wordsworth.  Illustra- 
tious.     Royal  Svo.     21a. 

PEKING  TO  PETERSBURG.  By  A. 
MiCHiE.    Illustrations.     Svo.     16*. 

JUTLAND,  THE  DANISH  ISLES,  and 
COPENHAGEN,  By  Horace  Mar- 
ry at.     2  Vols.    Post  Svo.     24s. 

SWEDEN  AND  THE  ISLE  OP  GOT- 
LAND. By  Horace  Marry  at.  Il- 
lustrations.    2  Vols.     Svo.     28s. 


BUBBLES    FROM    THE 
By.  Sir  F.   B.  Head. 

Post  Svo.    7a,  Cd. 


BRUNNEN. 

Illustrations. 


A  YACHT  VOYAGE  TO  ICELAND. 
By  Loud  Dufferin.  Illustrations^ 
Crown  Svo.     7a.  Cd. 

A  RESIDENCE  IN  ABYSSINIA.  By 
Mansfield  Parkyns.  Illustrations. 
Post  Svo,     7a.  Cd. 

NINEVEH  AND  BABYLON,    By  A.  H. 

La  yard.    Illustrations.    2  Vols.  Post 
Svo.     15s. 

THE  MONASTERIES  of  the  LEVANT. 
By  Hon.  Robert  Curzon.  Illustra- 
tions.   Post  Svo.    7a.  Cd. 


SINAI  AND  PALESTINE.  By  Dean 
Stanley.    Plans.    Svo.     14a. 

A  JOURNAL  OF  TRAVELS  IN  PALES- 
TINE. By  Rev.  E.  Robinson,  D.D. 
Maps.    3  vols.  Svo.    42a. 


June,  1S71. 


JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET. 


a  .y  ^ 


£      J^^C<^^y^^ 


ir/  '7'  • 


HANDBOOK   FOR   TRAVELLERS 


IN 


RUSSIA, 

POLAND,  AND  FINLAND. 


-^ f 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TMVELLERS 


m 


o  J  ^ 


RUSSIA, 

POLAND,    AND   FINLAND 


57505D 


SECOND   REVISED   EDITION. 


WITH     MAP    AND     PLANS. 


LONDON: 
JOHN   MUREAY,    ALBEMAELE  STREET. 

PARTS:  A.  W.  GALIGNANI  &  CO.;  AND  A.  XAVIER,  22,  RUE  DE  LA  BANQUE. 
ST.  PETERSBURG :  Mrs.  WATKINS.      NEW  YORK  :  WILEY. 

1868. 


iTie  right  of  n-anslation  is  reserved. 


THE  ENQLISII  EDITIONS  OP  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOKS  MAY  BE  OBTAINED  OF  THE 

FOLLOWING  AGENTS  : — 


AIX.LA-  \ 

CHAPELLE    J 
AMSTERDAM  . 
ANTWERP 
BADEN-BADEN 

BERLIN     . 
BRUSSELS 

CARLSRUHE    . 
COLOGNE. 
DRESDEN 
FRANKFURT  . 
GRATZ      . 
THE  HAGUE    . 
HAMBURG 
HEIDELBERG. 


BASLE 
BERNE      . 
COIRE 
CONSTANCE 
GENEVA  . 


LAUSANNE 
LUCERNE. 


BOLOGNA 
FLORENCE 
GENOA      . 

LEGHORN 
LUCCA 
MANTUA. 
MILAN      . 


MODENA , 
NAPLES  . 
PALERMO 


Germany,  Holland,  and  Belgium, 


I.A.MAYER. 

J   MULLER.-W.  KIRBERGER. 

MAX.  KORNICKEK. 

D.  R.  MARX. 

MUQUARDT.  —  KIESSLING 

&  CO. 
A.BIELEFELD. 
GUKVEN.-NELTE  &  CO. 
ARNOLD. 
C.  JUG  EL. 

LEUSCHNER  A  LUBENSkY. 
NIJHOFF  &  CO. 
MAUKE,  SOUNE 
MOllR. 


KISSINGEN 
LEIPZIG     . 
LUXEMBOURG 
MANNHEIM 

MUNICH    . 

NURNBERG      . 
PEST 

PRAGUE  . 
ROTPKROAM   . 
STUTTGART    . 
TRIESTE  , 
VIENNA    .        . 
WIESBADEN 


C.  JUG  EL.  „„„ 

BROCKHAUS.-DURR. 

a'SrIA     a    FONTAINE.- 

LOFFLER-KOTFER. 
LITERARISCH.-ARTTISISCHE. 

_ANSTALT.-1.  PALM. 
SCH  RAH— ZEISER. 
HARTLEREN.-G.HECKENAaT. 
— OSTERLAMM.— RATH.     . 

CALVK. 

KRAMERS.— PETRI, 
P.  NEFF. 

MUNSTER.-COEN. 
C.  (JEROLD.— BRAUMULLEK. 
.     KREIDEL. 


Switzerland. 


PREFACE. 


^  The  present  Handbook  for  Kussia,  Poland,  and  Finland  will  be 

§  found  to  vary  materially  from  the  edition  corrected  m  1849. 

The  Russian   empire  has   since   passed   through   a  memorable 


H.  GEORG.-H.  AMRERGER. 

UALP.-JEUT  &  REINERT. 

GHUBENMANN. 

MECK. 

H.  GEORG.— DESROGIS.- 

CH  EirnU  LI  EZ,— MONROE.— 

GHISLETTY. 

T.  RorssY. 
F.  KAISER. 


NEUCIIATEL  .  GERSTER 
SCHAFFHAUSEN  HURTER. 
SOLEURE.  '"""^ 

ST.  GALL  EN 

ZURICH     . 


to 


JENT. 

HUBER. 

II.   FUSSLI  A  CO.— MEYER 

&  ZELLER. 
H.  F    LEUTHOLD,  POST- 

STRASSE. 


Italy. 


M.  RUSCONI.  PARMA     . 

GOODBAN.  ^  ,.„  PISA  .         . 

GRONDONA  &  CO.-ANTOINE  PERUGIA. 

HEUF.  ROME 
MAZZAIOLI. 

F.  BARON.  SIENA 

NEGKETTI.  TURIN       . 
ARTARIA.  —  DUMOLARD               ^ 

FR'eRES.-G.  BRIGOLA.  VENICE     . 

L.  RONCHI 

VINCFNZI  &  ROSSI.  vPRriNA    . 

DORANT. -DUFRESNE.  VERONA. 

PEDONE. 


J.ZANGIIIERI.  

NISTRI.-JOS.  VANNUCCHL 
VINCENZ.  BARTELLl. 
SPITHOVER-PIALE.— 

MONALDINI. 
ONORATO  PORRI. 
MAGGI  — L.  BEUF.— MA- 
RIETTl.-BOCCA  FRERES. 

Mt'NSTER.  —  COEN.— 
MEINERS. 
H.  F.  MlJNSTER.-MElNIERS. 


France, 


AMIEN«(    . 
AN<iERS    . 
AVIGNON 
AVUANCHES    . 
BAYONNE 

BORDEAUX      . 

BOULOGNE      . 
BREST       . 
CAEN 

CALAIS     . 
CANNES   . 

CHERBOURG     . 
DIEPPE     . 
DINANT   . 
DOUAl 

DUNKERQUE  . 
GRENOBLE  . 
HAVRE      . 

LILLE 
LYONS      . 

MARSEILLES 


GIBRALTAR 
LISBON      . 


CARON 

BAR  ASS  E'. 

CLE'MENT  ST.  JUST. 

ANFRAY. 

JAYMEBON,— LASSERRE. 

CHAUMAS.-M<^LLER.-SAU. 

VAT.— FERCT. 
WATEL.— MERRIDEW, 

HEP.ERT. 

BOISARD.  — LEGOST.— CLE- 

RISSE'. 
RIGAUX  CAUX. 
BARBERY  FRERES.— 

ROBANDY. 
Mllk.  LECOUFFLET. 
MARAIS. 

COSTE.  A    „ 

JACQUART.— LEMALE. 
VANDENBUSSCHE. 
VELLOT  ET  CO. MP. 
BOUKDIGNON.-FOUCHER.— 

Mmk.  BUYS. 
BE'GHIN. 

AYNE'  FILS.— SCHEURING.— 
ME'RA. 
,     CAMOIN  PRERES.— LE 
MEUNIER. 


METZ 

MONTPELLIER 
MULHOUSE     . 
NANCY       . 
NANTES    . 

NICE 

ORLEANS. 

PARIS 

PAU  . 

PERPIGNAN    . 

REIMS 

ROCHEFORT     . 

rouf:n     . 

SAUMUR  . 
ST.  ETIENNE  . 
ST.  MALO. 
ST.  QUENTIN   , 
STRASBOURG  . 

TOULON   . 
TOULOUSE 
TOURS 
TROYES    . 


ROM'SWELL. 
MATT.  LEWTAS. 


Spain  and  Portugal, 


MADRID  . 
MALAGA  . 


WARION. 
LEVALLE. 
RISLER. 
CON  FT 

petipa's.-poirier  legros. 

—ANDRE'. 
BARBERY  FRFlRF.S.-JOUGLA 
GATINEAU.-PESTY. 
GALKJNANI.— XAVIER.— 
LAFON. 

JULIA  FRfeRES. 
BRISSART  niNET.— 

GEOFFROY.— GIRET. 

BOrCARD. 
LEBRUMENT.— HAULARD. 

CAULTIER  BRIE'RE. 

I>E  LARUE. 

HUE. 

DOLOY. 

TREUTTEL  ET  WITRTZ.— 

GRUCKER.-DER1VAUX. 
MONGE  ET  VILLAMUS. 
GIMET  A  COTELLE. 

GF:oHnET.  ^ 

LALOY.— DUFEY  ROBERT. 


DURAN.— BAILLIERE. 
FR.  DE  MOYA. 


)S) 


Bussia, 


«T   PFTERS-)  ••  _^,„„  I    MOSCOW  .     W.GAUTIER.-DEUBNER.-LANG. 

ST.  PET  t.K!>  J    ISSAKOFF.-ROTTGER.-WOLFF  |    ODESSA     .        .    CAMOIN  FRERES. 


BURO. 

Malta, 


strucrcle  on  the  shores  of  the  Black  Sea,  and  the  Emperor  Nicholas 
2  has  been  succeeded  by  Alexander  IL,  the  Emancipator.    The 
^  changes  evolved  by  these  two  events  have   been  so  m^ch  in 
«  favour  of  travellers,  and  have  made  Russia  a  country  so  highly 
z  interesting  to  those  who  study  the  political  progress  of  nations 
^and  the  consequent  increase   of  their  well-being,  that  a  new 
edition  of  the  Handbook  has  become  a  matter  of  urgent  necessity. 
'^      Eecent  travellers  in  Kussia  will  attest  that  there  is  now  no 
^  country  on  the  Continent  where  foreigners  are  more  free  from 
'    the  vexatious  proceedings  of  custom-house  and  police  ofiScers 
'^  The   passport-system   of  Kussia,  once   so   strictly  enforced,  at 
present  only  demands  that  the  traveller  should  be  provided  with 
i  national  passport  bearing  the  visa  that  will  be  readily  given  by 
any  Russian  diplomatic  or  consular  authority ;  and  even  during 
his  residence  and  his  travels  within  the  empire  the  stranger  is 
subject  to  no  further  police  regulations  than  the  exhibition  of 
his  passport  at  the  hotel  or  house  where  he  resides.    He  may 
converse  on  politics  as  freely  as  in  his  own  country,  and  study 
the  social  condition  of  the  empire  in  all  its  interesting  phases  of 
transition  without  let  or  hindrance,  and  without  any  fear  of  the 
liabilities  described  by  writers  on  Russia  ten  years  ago. 

The  introduction  of  railways  is  among  the  most  important 
changes  that  the  traveUer  will  find  in  Russia.  The  fact  is  not 
sufficiently  known  or  appreciated  that  the  journey  to  St.  Petere- 
buro-  may  be  performed  throughout  the  entire  distance  by  rail 
in  three  and  a  half  to  four  days.  Kor  is  there  any  longer  the 
necessity  of  posting  through  a  country  of  which  the  language  to 
a  Western  traveller  is  incomprehensible,  and  of  which  the  roads 
were,  perhaps,  the  worst  in  Europe.  A  railway  connects  Moscow 
^  a  3 


Ionian  Islands.        Constantinople.  Greece. 

MUIB.  CORFU        .    J.W.TAYLOR.  WICK.  ATHENS      .  A.  NAST. 


VI 


PREFACE. 


with  St.  Petersburg ;  and  express-trains  convey  the  European 
to  meet  the  Asiatic  at  the  fair  of  Kijni-Kovgorod.  A  few  other 
short  lines  already  run  between  places  of  commercial  and  histo- 
rical interest,  and  are  described  in  this  work ;  many  others  are 
either  commenced  or  projected.  The  great  trunk  line  in  course  of 
construction  between  Moscow  and  the  Southern,  most  productive 
provinces  of  Russia,  and  the  line  that  wiU  unite  it  with  the  Baltic 
Provinces  by  way  of  Witepsk,  will  open  several  new  routes  of 
much  importance.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  complete  intersection 
of  the  empire  by  railroads  will  attract,  in  addition  to  the  travel- 
lers for  pleasure  and  instruction,  numerous  commercial  and 
financial  agents,  who  will  eagerly  seek  their  profit  in  developing 
the  resources  of  such  a  new  and  fertile  country.  The  adoption 
of  a  liberal  tariff,  obviously  impending  in  the  interest  both  of 
the  Russian  people  and  of  the  Imperial  revenue,  will  still  further 
promote  individual  and  commercial  intercourse  with  England, 
to  the  immeasurable  advantage  of  the  agricultural  interest  of  the 
one  country,  and  the  manufacturing  industry  of  the  other. 

A  Handbook  for  such  a  vast  empire  as  Russia  must  neces- 
sarily be  a  compilation ;  and  the  text  of  1849  having  been  almost 
entirely  abandoned,  the  difficulty  and  tediousness  of  preparing 
this  edition  have  been  much  aggravated  by  the  want  of  recent 
guide-books  for  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow  even  in  the  Russian 
language.     For  the  new  materials  which  constitute  the  present 
edition'^I  am  indebted  to  many  kind  contributors.     Mr.  J.  Savile 
Lumley,  Secretary  of  Embassy,  has   given  the  Handbook  the 
advantage  of  his  artistic  knowledge  in  the  description  of  the 
Picture   Galleries   of  the  Hermitage.      To   the   Directors   and 
Curators   of  the    Hermitage    I   owe   much    assistance    in  pre- 
paring the  guide  to  the  Sculpture  Gallery  and  Painted  Vases, 
the  index  to  its  Ai't  collections,  and  the  catalogue  of  the  prin- 
cipal objects  in  the  Museum  of  Greek  Antiquities  from  Kertch. 
The  Route  through  the  Crimea  is  by  :Mr.  Kicholas  Rowe,  who 
visited  it  in  1864.     Mr.  Sutherland  Edwards,  whose  works  on 
Russia  and  Poland  are  well  known  for  their  correctness,  has 
supplied  the  Historical  Notice,  on   Poland ;    while   Mr.  R.  G. 
Watson,  late  Attache  to  H.M.'s  Legation  at  Teheran,  has  afforded 
the  greater  part  of  the  information  contained  in  the  Routes  to 


PREFACE. 


Vll 


Persia.  My  grateful  acknowledgments  are  also  due  to  several 
other  literary  coadjutors  at  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow;  and 
beyond  all  this  assistance  I  have  consulted  many  Russian  works 
descriptive  of  local  interests  and  curiosities.  The  remainder 
is  the  result  of  personal  travel  and  obsers^ation  during  a  resi- 
dence of  many  years  in  Russia. 

T.  MiCHELL,  F.R.G.S., 

Attache  to  Her  Majesty's  Emhassij  at 
the  Court  of  Ihissia. 
London i  May,  1865. 


PREFACE  TO  SECOND  NEW  EDITION. 


-♦o*- 


Thk  exhaustion  of  the  previous  editions  affords  an  opportunity 
(jf  making  considerable  additions  to  the  Handbook  for  Russia, 
and  of  aftering  such  parts  of  it  as  were  no  longer  applicable 
to  existing  circumstances.  At  the  same  time,  the  stidden  and 
rapid  extension  of  railways  in  Russia,  particularly  in  the  more 
Southern  parts  of  the  Empire,  renders  it  impossible  to  present  to 
the  public  a  work  which  shall  give  a  faultless  description  of  the 
several  routes,  liable  as  they  are  to  almost  daily  modifications. 

In  the  present  edition  the  traveller  will,  however,  find  more 
detailed  reference  to  the  History  of  Russia  in  connection  with 
the  towns  through  which  the  lines  in  construction  or  already 
completed  will  enable  him  to  pass,  as  well  as  a  less  imperfect 
sketch  of  the  routes  through  the  Crimea. 

In  re-arranging  and  amplifying  these,  no  unsparing  use  has 
been  made  of  ]\Ir.  H.  D.  Seymour's  excellent  work,  '  Russia  on 
the  Shores  of  the  Black  Sea.' 

It   is   also   right   to   acknowledge    that   the   ^  Geographical 

Dictionary  of  Russia,'  edited  by  Mr.  P.  Semenoff",  Director  of 

the  Statistical  Department  of  the  Imperial  Home  Office,  has 

contributed  much  useful  information. 

^  T.  M. 

St.  Petersburg,  July,  1868. 


( 


Vlll 


) 


CONTENTS. 

Sect.  I.— EUSSIA. 

Introduction        Page  1 

EOUTES. 

[The  names  of  places  are  printed  in  italics  only  in  those  routes  where  the  places  are  described,'] 


ROUTE  PAGE 

1.  London  to  ^S*^.  Petersburg,  over- 

land,    via     Berlin,     KownOy 
Wilna,  and  Pskof 65 

2.  London    to    St.  Petersburg,   by 

Sea,  via  Cronsfaf/^ 157 

3.  London   to  St.  Petersburg,  via 
Archangel        157 

4.  Berlin  to  Revaly  by  Riga^  Dor- 

pat,  &c »      ..   163 

5.  St.  Petersburg  to  Novgorod  the 

Great 173 


ROUTE  PAGE 

6.  St.  Petersburg  to  3/bscoio         ..    176 

7.  Moscow  to  the  Troitsa   Monas- 

tery (Troitskaya  -  Sergieva 
Lavra) 217 

8.  IMoscow  to  Nijni  Novgorod,  with 

branch  line  to  Shuya  and  Ivan- 
ovo, and  excursion  up  the  Oka 
to  Murom^  Elatma,  and  Ka- 
simof 220 

9.  Volga:  Tyqv  io  Astrakhan      ..  228 


Sect.  II.— SOUTH  RUSSIA  AND  CRIMEA,  CAUCASUS 

AND  SIBERIA. 

Introduction Page  235 


ROUTE  PAGE 

10.  Berlin  or  Vienna  to  Odessa,  by 

Lemberg,  Czeniowitz,  and  Kish- 
enef       236 

11.  Berlin  or  Vienna  to  Odessa,  by 

Lemberg,  Brody,  Volochisk, 
Bar,  and  Balta  " 237 

12.  Riga  or  St.  Petersburg  to  Odessa, 

by  Diinaburg,  Witcbsk,  Orel, 
and  Kief  —  the  South  of 
Kussia 238 

13.  Moscow    to    Odessa,   by    Titian 

Orel,  Kursk,  Kharkoff,  Pol- 
tava, Kremenchuk,  Elizavet- 
grad,  and  Balta 253 

14.  Moscow  to  Voronej,  by  Piazan, 

Piajskj  and  Kozlof.  Branch 
lines  to  Morshansk  and  Elets      264 

15.  St.  Petersburg,  Moscow,  or  Riga, 

to  Taganrog   and  Ro.stof  (Sea 

of  Azofj,  by  Kharkof    ,.      ..   270 


route  PAGE 

16.  Odessa  to  the  Crimea  overland, 

by  Nikolaef  and  Kherson      . .   273 

17.  Odessa   to  the  Crimea  by  sea: 

Eupatoria  to  Kertch,  and  ex- 
cursions through  the  Crimea . .   277 

18.  Kertch  to  Tsaritsin  on  the  Volga, 

hy  Postof      317 

19.  Rostof  to  iVbyoc/t^rA-as^   ..      ..   318 

20.  London  to   Tiflis,  by  Constanti- 

nople— The  Caucasus    ..      ..   319 

21.  Tiflis  to  Teheran,  hj  Ararat  and 

Tabreez 323 

22.  Tiflis  to  Teheran,  by  Baku  or 

Lenkoran,  and  Resht  or  Astra- 
bad,  on  the  Caspian        . .      . .   325 

23.  Lenkoran   to  Teheran,  by  land, 

mkPesht       .. 326 

24.  London  to  Persia,  by  w^ay  of  St. 

Petersburg 328 

25.  London  to  Pekin,  via  St.  Peters- 

buig,  Iviakhta,  and  I^Iongolia      328 


(    i^    ) 


Introduction 


Sect.  III.— POLAND. 


Page  333 


KOUTES. 


route  page 

34.  Berlin  to    Warsaw,  via  Brom- 

berg  and  Thorn      351 

35.  St.  Petersburg  to  Warsaw,  via 

Wilna 360 

36.  Vienna  to  Wai-saw 361 

37.  Warsaw  to  Lodz       362 

38.  Warsaw  to  Sandomir,   up   the 

Vistula ••   362 

39.  Warsaw   to   Prussian    Frontier, 

down  the  Vistula 36- 


ROUTE 


PAGE 


40.  Warsaw  to  Cracow,  via  Padom 

andKieltse 363 

41.  W^arsaw  to  Novogeorgievsk      ..   364 

42.  Warsaw  to  St.  "Petersburg,  via 

Pidtusk,       Ostrolenka^       and  ^ 
Kowno 364 

43.  Warsaw   to  Moscow,  via  Brest- 

Litevski  and  Bobruisk   ..      ..   364 

44.  Warsaw  to  Kief,  via  Brest        . .   365 

45.  Warsaw  to  Lemberg,  via  Lublin  366 


Sect.  IV.— FINLAND. 


Introduction 


369 


ROUTE. 
55.  Stockholm  to  Wgborg,  by  Abo  and  Ilelslngfors 


»o5 


Index 


393 


(  ^  ) 


PLANS. 


PAGE 

St.  Peteesbueq        to  face     71 

Picture  Galleries  AT  THE  Hermitage 88 

Moscow      180,181 

Cathedral  of  the  Assumption  at  Moscow        192 

Travelling  and  Clue  Map  op  Russia     at  the  end. 


HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 


IN 


RUSSIA,  POLAND,  AID  FOLAND. 


SECTION  L— EUSSIA. 


INTEODUCTION. 


1.  Historical  Notice 

2.  Statistics         _         -         - 

3.  Lanojuatre        _         -         - 

4.  Literature       .         -         - 

5.  Measures,  Weights^  and  Coi; 

6.  Passport  Regulalions 

7.  Custom-houses 

8.  Posting  -        -        -         - 


page 

-  1 

-  30 

-  32 

-  39 

-  44- 

-  51 

-  51 

-  52 


9.  Cuisine  and  Pieslnurants  - 

10.  Climate,  Clotliing,  &c.  •• 

11.  Sanitary  Peculiarities 

12.  Sport     -         -         -  - 

13.  Society  -         -         -  - 

14.  Seasons  for  Travelling 

15.  Pvailways  and  Principal  Routes 


pact 

-  16 

-  o6 

-  57 

-  58 

-  62 

-  63 

-  64 


1. — Historical  Notice. 

The  space  allotted  to  this  sketch  beins  sufficient  only  to  furnish  the 
traveller  with  a  few  historical  memoranda  of  the  remarkable  events  m 
Russian  history  and  of  the  most  celebrated  sovereigns  who  have  swayed  the 
destinies  of  that  empire,  renders  it  impossible  to  give  any  descriptive  details, 
more  particularly  of  those  monarchs  who  lived  nearer  to  our  own  times,  and 
who  have  figured  conspicuously  in  European  politics.  The  more  salient 
and  im]iortant  iwints  will,  therefore,  alone  be  mentioned.  Further  historical 
data  will  be  found  scattered  throucih  this  Handbook. 

History  and  tradition  concur  in  showing  that  Europe  was  peopled  by 
three  ^reat  families  of  the  human  race,  who  emigrated  westward,  at  distinct 
periods-  the  last  of  these  n»ikTations  was  that  of  the  Slavonians,  who  esta- 
blished'themselves  on  the  Don  about  400  years  before  Christ.  Jn  the  days 
of  Herodotus  their  mode  of  life  was  exceedingly  rude  and  barbarous ;  they 

Bussia — 1868.  * 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


Sect.  I. 


had  no  houses,  and  lived  a  nomadic  and  pastoral  life,  jounicyinp;  from  one 
verdant  spot  to  another,  and  stopping;  at  each  only  so  long;  as  tliey  found 
sufficient  pasture  for  their  flocks  and  herds.  Like  all  the  other  aboriginal 
races  of  Europe,  the  Slavonians  dwelt  together  in  more  or  less  numerous 
colonies  c^overned  by  elected  or  hereditary  Elders  of  a  ]iatriarchal  type. 
They  held  their  councils  of  wise  men,  who  administered  laws  very  similar 
to  those  of  the  Germanic  races.  Their  principal  occupations  were  the 
rearing  of  cattle,  the  chase  and  the  management  of  bees,  while  their  chief 
characteristics  seem  to  have  been  in  a  degree  analogous  to  those  of  their 
descendants,  the  modern  Kussians  : — they  were  hospitable,  courageous,  good- 
humoured,  contented,  and  immoderately  fond  of  spirituous  hquors;  like 
most  barbarous  nations,  however,  the  courage  of  the  Slaves  frequently 
degenerated  into  cruelty,  and  murder  was  no  uncommon  crime  amongst 
them.  The  law  of  vengeance  or  retaliation  was  acted  upon  until  the  intro- 
duction of  the  penalties  or  compensation  in  money  known  as  wcregeld  in 
German,  and  vira  in  Slavonian.  Their  religion  was  idolatrous,  and  their 
mode  of  worship  resembled  the  gross  and  degraded  forms  of  the  ancient 
Druids ;  they  not  only  oifered  up  their  prisoners  as  a  holocaust  to  their 
chief  deity,  Perune,  the  Zeus  of  the  Greeks  and  the  Jupiter  of  the  Romans, 
but  would  sometimes  even  immolate  their  own  children  to  his  honour. 

It  was  not  till  the  fifth  century  that  the  wild  Slavonians,  who  had  over- 
run a  large  portion  of  European  Eussia,  founded  any  remarkable  settle- 
ments ;  these  were  Novgorod,  on  the  Ilmen,  and  Kief,  or  Kiow,  on  the 
Dnieper ;  where  they  afterwards  became  distinguished  for  their  commerce, 
their  riches,  and  incipient  civilization.  The  tribal  groups  of  the  Xorth 
began,  about  the  middle  of  the  9th  century,  to  feel  a  want  of  unity  and  of  a 
system  of  government  better  adapted  to  the  civilization  which  their  inter- 
course with  the  Germans  and  the  Greeks  was  introducing.  Embroiled  in 
dissensions,  and  subject  on  the  S.E.  to  the  exactions  of  Asiatic  races 
encamped  on  the  Volga  and  the  Don,  and  on  the  N.W.  to  the  depredations 
of  the  sea-kings,  the  Slavonians,  according  to  an  old  chronicle,  sent  a  depu- 
tation to  the  Variags,  or  Normans,  with  the  message  and  the  invitation, 
"  Our  land  is  great  and  bountiful,  but  there  is  no  order  in  it ;  come  and 
rule  over  us."  In  864  Iiurik,  a  Norman  prince,  took  up  his  residence  at 
Novgorod,  and  there  founded  the  llussian  monarchy,  the  sceptre  of  which 
continued  to  be  held  by  his  descendants  for  upwards  of  700  years.  Two  of 
Ivurik's  followers  subsequently  left  him  to  seek  their  fortunes  in  the  south, 
and  on  their  journey  to  Constantinople  they  attacked  the  town  of  Kief, 
gained  ix)ssession  of  it,  and  it  thus  became  the  capital  of  a  second  Slavonian 
kingdom. 

''  Six  sovereigns  succeeded  Eurik,  "who,  with  their  military  comrades  or 
drujina,  ^vere  constantly  making  war  upon  neighbouring  tribes  or  fighting 
for  the  right  of  succession  to  the  throne  of  Kief,  then  the  capital  of  Kussia. 
These  princes  all  followed  the  pagan  worship  of  their  fathers ;  but  Vladimir, 
the  seventh  in  descent,  who  possessed  himself  of  the  throne  in  981,  was 
converted  to  Christianity,  originally  introduced,  although  not  established, 
by  Olga,  who  embraced  the  Greek  religion  at  Constantinople  about  the 
year  955.  His  nature  became  changed,  the  cruelty  of  his  disposition  gave 
way  to  clemency  and  humility,  and  when  awarding  punishments  for  crime 
he  is  said  to  have  exclaimed,  "  What  am  I,  that  I  should  condemn  a  fellow- 


1 


u 


ussia. 


1. — Itisiorical  Notice. 


creature  to  death  ?  "  He  also  endeavoured  to  overcome  the  violent  preju- 
dices and  superstitions  of  his  subjects  by  founding  seminaries,  with  professors 
from  Greece ;  and  from  that  classic  land  he  likewise  procured  architects  and 
other  artisans  to  instruct  his  peoi)le  in  their  several  crafts.  His  military 
conquests  embraced  the  whole  of  Poland.  Vladimir  deserved  well  of  his 
country,  and  the  Russian  Church  has  enrolled  him  among  the  number  of 
her  saints.  His  son  Yaroslaf,  who  reigned  thirty-five  years,  and  died 
at  the  age  of  seventy-seven  years,  was  a  prince  of  considerable  attain- 
ments and  a  great  patron  of  the  arts;  the  church  of  St.  Sophia,  at 
Nov<^orod,  was  by  his  order  decorated  with  pictures  and  mosaics,  portions  of 
which  remain  to  the  present  time.  His  wars  with  Boleslas  of  Poland,  as 
w^ell  as  his  acquirements  and  the  splendour  in  which  he  lived,  made  his 
name  known  and  respected  throughout  Europe.  Three  of  his  daughters 
^verc  married  to  the  Kings  of  France,  Norway,  and  Hungary ;  and  his 
eldest  son,  Vladimir,  who  died  before  him,  espoused  a  daughter  of  the 
unfortunate  Harold,  the  last  of  our  Saxon  kings.  Yaroslaf  died  in  1054, 
and,  like  his  father,  divided  his  territories  among  his  sons.  Vladimir 
Mouomachus,  his  grandson,  who  died  in  the  early  part  of  the  next  centur>', 
did  the  same ;  and  as  the  princely  house  multiplied,  the  country  was  con- 
tinually a  prey  to  internal  dissensions  and  strife.  In  the  year  preceding 
the  death  of  Monomachus,  Kief  was  nearly  destroyed  by  fire,  and  from  the 
great  number  of  churches  and  houses  that  fell  a  prey  to  the  flames  that  city 
must  have  been  of  great  opulence  and  extent.  This  calamity  was  followed 
in  the  succeeding  "reign  by  a  still  greater  one,  Avhen  the  sister  capital, 
Novgorod,  was  desolated  by  a  famine  so  awful  that  the  survivors  were  not 
sufficiently  numerous  to  bury  the  dead,  and  the  streets  were  blocked  up  by 
the  putrid  corpses  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  reigns  which  followed  this  period  of  Russian  history  are  distinguished 
by  little  else  than  continual  civil  wars,  with  this  exception,  that  the  town 
of  Vladimir,  built  by  Yurv  L,  in  1158,  became  in  that  year  the  capital 
instead  of  Kief.  But  a  formidable  enemy  drew  near  in  the  person  of  Tushi, 
the  son  of  Zendiis  Khan,  who,  emigrating  with  his  Tartars  westward  led 
them  about  the  vear  1223,  from  the  shores  of  the  Sea  of  Aral  and  the 
Caspian,  to  those  of  the  Dnieper.  The  Circassians  and  Polovtzes  having 
endeavoured  in  vain  to  arrest  th^e  progress  of  the  horde,  were  at  length  con- 
strained to  apply  to  their  hitherto  inveterate  foes  for  assistance,  and,  the 
cause  beino-  now  equally  dear  to  all  parties,  the  Russians  made  an  intrepid 
stand  on  the  banks  of  the  Khalka.  The  impetuous  attack,  however,  of  the 
invaders  was  not  to  be  withstood  ;  and,  the  Prince  of  Kief  treacherously 
abstainincr  from  taking  part  in  the  battle,  the  Russians  were  completely 
routed,  and  scarcely  a  tenth  part  of  an  army  composed  of  100,000  men 
escaped  The  enemy  then  ]nirsued  his  way  unmolested  to  the  capital, 
which  he  took,  and  put  50,000  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  principaUty  of  Kief 
to  the  sword.  The  further  progress  of  the  Tartars  northward  was  marked  by 
fire  and  bloodshed;  but,  having  reached  Novgorod  Severski,  they  faced  about 
and  retreated  to  the  camp  of  Zenghis  Khan,  who  was  at  this  time  in  Buk- 
haria  Thirteen  years  after,  Baati  Khan,  his  grandson,  desolated  Russia 
again,  committing  every  species  of  cruelty  and  many  breaches  of  faith  with 


1. — Historical  Notice* 


Sect.  I. 


the  towns  whicli  submitted  to  his  arms.     In  this  manner  the  provmces 
of  Pviazan,  Periaslavl,  Rostof,  and  several  others  fell  into  his  hands :  for 
with  incredible  apathy,  and  contrary  to  their  usually  warlike  inchnations, 
the  Russian  princes  neglected  to  raise  any  troops  to  dispute  the  progress  of 
the  Tartars  ;  and  the  attention  of  Yury  11.,  Prince  of  Vladimir,  was  at  that 
important  juncture  engrossed  in  celebrating  the  marriage  of  one  of  his  boyars. 
Housed,  at  length,  to  a  sense  of  his  desperate  position,  he  placed  himself  at 
the  head  of  some  troops  hastily  called  together,  and  left  his  family  under  the 
protection  of  one  of  his  nobles,  trusting  that  his  capital  would  be  able  to  sus- 
tain a  long  sieize.     He  was  mistaken :  the  Tartars  soon  made  themselves 
masters  otTlndimir,  and  the  j^rincesses,  as  well  as  other  persons  of  distinction, 
were  burnt  alive  in  the  church  in  which  they  had  taken  shelter.     On  hcarnig 
of  this  trac^ical  event,  Yury  marched  with  his  adherents  to  meet  the  foe : 
the  contest  was  sanguinary  and  short ;  but,  after  performing  prodigies  of  valour 
the  Russians  were  Iwrne  down  by  overpowering  numbers,  and  the  prince  was 
left  amongst  the  slain.     There  was  now  nothing  to  arrest  the  march  of 
the  ruthless  Tartars,  and  they  pushed  forward  to  within  sixty  miles  of 
Novgorod,  when  they  again  turned  round  without  any  ostensible  motive 
and  "evacuated  the  Russian  territory.     The  wretched  condition  into  which 
the  southern  and  central  parts  of  the  empire  were  thrown  by  these  invasions 
afforded  a  most  advantageous  opportunity  for  other  enemies  to  attack  it ; 
and,  accordingly,  in  1242,  and  during  the  reign  of  Yaroslaf  11.,  the  Swedes, 
Danes,  and  Livonians,  sent  a  numerous  and  well-disciplined  army  to  demand 
the  submission  of  Novgorod  ;  this,  Alexander,  the  son  of  the  reigning  prince, 
refused,  and,  leaving  his  capital,  he  advanced,  unaided  by  any  allies,  to 
meet  his  opponents,  and  fought  the  celebrated  battle  of  the  Neva,  which 
gained  him  the  surname  of  Nevski  and  a  place  in  the  Russian  calendar. 
The  personal  courage  of  Alexander  in  this  battle  was  of  the  highest  order, 
and  mainly  contributed  to  secure  the  victory. 

A  cruel  and  constantly  fluctuating  war  with  the  Tartars,  various  incur- 
sions by  the  Livonians,  Litliuaniaiis,  Swedes,  and  Poles,  and  the  most 
frightful  civil  discord  amongst  the  several,  almost  regal,  provinces  of  Russia, 
occiipied  fourteen  successive  reigns,  between  Yury  II.,  who  died  in  1237, 
and  Ivan  I.,  who  succeeded  his  father  in  the  principality  of  Vladimir  in 
1328.  At  times,  during  this  period,  the  Tartars  arrogated  to  themselves 
the  power  of  protectors  of  this  or  that  interest ;  and  in  the  case  of  Ivan  I., 
Uzbek  Khan  secured  to  him  the  possession  of  Novgorod,  as  well  as  of 
Vladimir  and  Moscow.  Ivan's  father  had  greatly  beautified  and  improved 
the  latter  town,  and  Ivan  followed  his  example  and  made  it  his  residence. 
Here  also  resided  the  Metropolitan,  and  it  therefore  rapidly  advanced  in 
importance.  Ivan's  reign  of  thirteen  years  was  remarkable  as  improving 
and  peaceful ;  and  he  exercised  a  sound  discretion  by  building  a  wall  of 
wood  round  the  city,  which  supported  a  rampart  of  earth  and  stone.  At 
the  close  of  his  life  he  took  monastic  vows,  and  died  in  1341.  In  the 
reign  of  Ivan  II.,  second  son  of  the  previous  Tsar  of  that  name,  Moscow 
established  its  pre-eminence  as  a  city,  and  became  the  capital  of  the  empire. 
Ivan  died  in  1358. 

Towards  the  close  of  this  century  the  Russians,  under  Dmitri  IV.,  raised 
an  army  of  400,000  men,  and  met  the  Tartars  near  the  Don,  and  defeated 


Russia. 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


them  with  great  loss;  the  victors,  however,  ^^^fi^^^'^'i.  g''^5^^^^^',^;\^,^^^'^ 
Dmitri  revie%ved  his  army  after  the  battle  he  iound  ^t  i-educec  to^^^^^^^^^^ 
men:  this  success  obtained  for  him  the  surname  of  ^^IJ^^^^-  ^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
bnwpver    to  this  victory  the  Tartars  again  advanced,  and  Dmitri,  betiajea 
bv  li'Iailies  the  v^lncls  of  the  neighbouring  states,  deserted  Moscow,  which 
feU  by  cSulation  into  the  hands  of  the  Tartars  who  devastated  it  wi  h 
fie  and  sword  until  it  was  utterly  destroyed,  no  bmldmg  being  permitted 
to  remain  except  those  which  happened  to  have  been  construe  edot  stone 
by  the  Grand  Prince.    The  character  of  Dmitri  isthus  ?  ^f^  ^^^,^>  ^^^^^ 
mlitan  Cvprian :— "  He  knew,"  savs  that  ecclesiastic,  "hou    o  sot  ten  the 
Ciy  offic^by  condescension';  he  was  impartial  in  the  -<^--^f^^ 
ustice,  and  delighted  to  promote  the  V<^^<^^^^^^^\^m~^}l}'^^  ^i  \^^^^^ 
his  learning  was^small,  but  the  rectitude  of  his  ^^^posi  ion  and  t^e  kindne 
of  his  hea?t  supplied  the  defects  of  education  and  entitle  hii     to  ad 
tiucrnished  place  amongst  Russian  sovereigns."      His  son    -l^^^^l  A^-'  7^<^ 
"c^^etf  himin  1389,  was  destined  to  see  fy^^^^"^^!^ 
Tartars  under  Tamerlane,  but  they  never  reached  the  capital,  ioi  he  pie 
mi^Tto  "i^^^  them  battle  on  the  river  Oka,  when  they  sudden  y  tui-ned 
round  and  retieTas  their  countrymen  had  previously  done  on  two  o  her 
occasions     ^Russians  attributed  this  to  a  miracle  performed  by  a  pic  ure 
ofthTv h-in  iLiy,  painted  by  St.  Luke.     The  horde,  however  joined  by 
t^t^^^I^r.^^s  lafd  siege  to  Mosco.^  but  T^V-^^^, 
inhabitants,  the  Grand  Prince  having  retired  with  l^\%^^f^  .>,^^J^"'i  ^^^^^^ 
exasperated  at  this  defeat,  the  Taiiars  in  their  '^'l'^^^^}^^^^^^^ 
rounding  country  and  slaughtered  the  delence  ess  P^^^^^^^^;  /l^^'\'^^^^^ 
first  coined  in  Novgorod  during  t  us  ^'f  S^^  =  ^^^^^^;;^°,.^|^  1^^?^^^^^^^^ 
supplied  with  skins  and  pieces  of  ^^^^^  ^^^^^  ^ V''''\^  of  vllh^^'^^^^^^^ 
were  considered  as  equivalent  to  a  grtvna  the  ^'^^^^f .  ^^^^J  ^'^:;.'^^^^^^^^ 
pound  of  gold  or  silver,  of  nine  and  a  quarter  ounces  m  Kief,  and  thiitcen 

"'Durinfi;  reicm  of  Basil  Russia  was  thrice  visited  with  the  plague  and 
faiSne"°vine  Kneient  city  of  Novgorod  was  shaken  by  an  -.r  hq^^^^^^^^^ 
Xr  the  -reater  part  of  its  buildings  had  been  consumed  by  fire.  Internal 
d  ntns  brdi  out  on  the  death  of  Basil,  -/^^iXtlZ^^^^^ 
respecting  the  succession  to  the  throne  between  t^^,^^^^^^^^f  .'^^  *^^^'^^^^^^^^^^ 
and  his  uncle  George  :  this  was,  by  the  consent  f  .^  ^^^^f  ^^  ,'Vom.en 
decision  of  the  Khan  of  Tartarus  ^^'^^ ^r  ^'™  !.^vl  a  she?  time  i™ 
TiPVPrthplpss  a  civil  war  followed,  and  George  was  loi  a  short  time  m  pos 

S  oi^^the  thmue  when,  findi/,,  Im.solf  «'^-'i-«'^,„^y  ^'^p^M 
faniilv  ho  restored  it  to  liis  nop  icw,  and  returned  to  his  pi  neipality  o 
Ga  toh  Comp  icatcd  uars,  Biisian  and  Tartar,  followed;  the  prmcpal 
hrc  deni  of  ^^S  was  that  Ivan,  the  I'rinee  of  Mojaisk,  in  the  interest  of  the 
tra  tor  Shem  aka  induced  Basil  to  stop  at  the  monastery  of  "h;  'iro.  fa  to 
ret  n  tha." 'on  his  arrival  from  the  horde,  and.  havmg  B-^ed  \..m  Aero 
he  took  him  to  Moscow  and  put  out  his  eyes.  A  few  years  f'^'^tlfl  ""';<' 
of  iS^jaisk  had  committed  this  savage  act  Basil  was  restored  to  the  th.one. 

'°Th^fir"t\illoit  which  Basil's  successor,  Ivan  III.,  attempted  was  the 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


Sect,  I. 


reduction  of  Kazan,  in  wliich  lie  succeeded  after  two  severe  campaigns ; 
tlie  next  was  tlie  subjection  of  Novgoral,  in  which  he  also  succeeded, 
incorporating  that  cit}^  and  province  with  his  own  dominions,  and,  having 
received  the  oaths  of  the  inhabitants,  he  carried  off  with  him  to  Moscow 
their  celebrated  Veche  hell.*    The  next  and  most  arduous  undertaking  was 
the  destruction  of  the  Golden  Horde  imder  Akhmet,  which  he  efiected  in 
revenge  for  the  insult  offered  him  by  that  Khan  in  demanding  the  homage 
which  he  had  received  from  his  predecessors.     Ivan  spat  on  the  edict  and 
on  Akhmet's  seol,  and  put  his  ambassadors  to  death,  si^aring  one  only  to 
convey  the  intelligence  to  his  master,  who  prepared  in  the  following  year 
to  take  his  revenge ;  but,  awed  by  the  preparations  made  to  receive  him  on 
the  Oka,  he  retired  for  a  time,  and  subsequently  took  the  more  circuitous 
route  through  Lithuania,  fioin  which  country  he  expected  sup[)ort;  the 
Russians,  however,  met  and  defeated  a  part  of  his  horde,  and  were  returning 
liome,  when  the  Khan  was  met  on  a  different  route  by  the  Nogay  Tartars, 
who  routed  his  army  and  slew  him  in  the  battle.     His  ally,  Casimir  ]V., 
also  brought  himself  under  Ivan's  indignation,  not  only  for  this  war,  but 
liccausc  he  attempted  to  poison  him,  and  a  raid  that  he  made  into  the 
territories  of  the  Polish  king  was  eminently  successful.    This  powerful  and 
ambitious  prince  also  made  treaties  of  alliance  with,  and  received  ambas- 
sadors from,  the  Pope,  the  Sultan,  the  Kings  of  Denmark  and  Poland,  and 
from  the  Pepublic  of  Venice  ;  it  was  he  who  assumed  the  title  of  Grand  Prince 
of  Novgorod,  Vladimir,  Moscow,  and  all  Kussia,  and  changed  the  arms  of 
St.  George  on  horseback  for  the  Black  Eagle  with  two  heads,  after  his 
marriage  with  Sophia,  a  princess  of  the  imperial  blood  of  Constantinople. 
In  fact,  Ivan  III.  mav  be  called  the  true  founder  of  the  modern  Russian 
empire.     The  Russian  historian  Karamsin  thus  describes  him : — "  Without 
being  a  tyrant  like  his  grandson,  he  had  received  from  nature  a  certain 
harshness  of  character  which  he  knew  how  to  moderate  by  the  strength  of 
his  reason.     It  is,  however,  said  that  a  single  glance  of  Ivan,  when  he  was 
excited  with  anger,  would  make  a  timid  woman  swoon,  that  petitioners 
dreaded  to  approach  his  throne,  and  that  even  at  his  table  the  boyars,  his 
grandees,  trembled  before  him ;"  which  portrait  does  not  belie  his  own 
declaration,  when  the  same  boyars  demanded  that  he  should  give  the  crown 
to  his  grandson  Ivan,  whom  he  had  dispossessed  in  favour  of  a  son  by  his 
second  wife,  "  I  will  give  to  Russia  whomsoever  I  please.'*     He  died,  very 
infirm,  in  1505,   having  reigned   forty-three  years.     Wars  between  the 
Russians,  the  Poles,  the  Tartars,  and  the  Novgorodians  again  arose  on  the 
death  of  Ivan  ;  and  it  was  not  till  the  death  of  Basil  IV.,  his  successor,  and 
a  minority  of  twelve  years  liad  elapsed  in  the  reign  of  Ivan  IV.,  that  internal 
cabals  and  intrigues  were  for  a  time  suppresseil.     This  monarch,  the  lirst 
to  take  the  title  of  7kn-,t  married  Anastasia,  the  daughter  of  Roman  Yury- 
vitcb,  who  in  the  early  jxirt  of  his  reign  had  the  happiest  ascendency  over  a 
character  naturally  violent  and  cruel.     Ivan  was  at  this  period  affable  and 
ooodescendiug,  accessible  to  both  rich  and  jxwr,  and  his  mental  powers. 


*  For  the  history  of  that  ancient  Republic,  vide  Route  5. 

f  The  sovereigns  of  Russia  had  hitherto  been  called  Grand  Princes.    Tur  it  derived  from  the 
Gre^  Kaisar.    Czar  is  a  canmpt  ortbographj  of  the  title,  and  in  Polish  reads  Char. 


Russia.  l.-mslorical  Notice.  ^ 

army  was  unequal :  he  therefore  establ  shed   in  IJ^^  'f  J    i,,,j„  their 
Streltsi,  and  armed  them  J^'h  nu«UU  mstead^^^^  |^^  ^^.^ 

arms,  as  their  name  impoHs,  fiom  htrela  ^".  "'T,  "  He  likewise  defeated 

of whichTew;.  guiltk  he  f^-^^^A^XlS:'^:^^ 
died  a  prey  to  the  S"<=f/"f  J^ TrT  hv  .  vin^Xsesums  of  money 
after  having  endeavoured  to  =''°"f,  ■« '^  .^^^  °1,"^  last  moments.  As 
to  different  monasteries  :  he  je^eived  t^ie  tonsuie  m  n  s  la  ^^^^^^^^ 

a  legislator  he  was  su,)erior  to  his  f'^'^'^^'Z^M^dk  In  his  reign  an 
of  his  nobles,  compiled  ;.«^5^«  "^  f^j^^^^n  ^^^^  in 

English  ship,  <^°'^'^r^fy^lfJ^^,^M^^  ^^n  controlled  his 

the  Arctic  Sea,  anchored  in  tb^  "louth  ol  «c  Uwin  ^^^^^ 

reh'-ious  prejudices,  and  tolerated  the  1^"*'"=  •'°  f "  j,'  f^reicn  ambas- 
mei^hantl  a^  Moscow  ;  but  he  -ver  «ho^  ^  ^:^ZllLrUi  i^^on  his 
sador  without  washing  his  own  ™n^fute  ,  altei  tn  ;,;„     „„<i 

leave.  With  a  character  so  f  ""S'y  "^'  ^^l  he  was  enterprising  and 
caprice,  it  is  remarkable  to  f  "^ J^ot  onl>  that  hc^  w  ^^^ 

inelligent,  but  that  he  should  1^^^^  ™tertained  tne  i       ^^^^^^^ 

Scriptures  in  the  hands  of  his  'fi^'^jJ^^^ZZ^  ha"f  it  disseminated 
atrinslation  to  be  n^^''^  °    «- j^l^j^;^/^      A-fe^   observes  Karamzin 
over  his  domimons.       ^y't^'^^^^^^cA   the   recollection  of  his  bad 
"the  brilliant    renown  "f    I;^^",""'!" victims  were  reduced  to  dust; 
qualities.     The   groans  had  ceas'^d.   t^«  uV  w'tten,  and  the  memory  of 
Sew  events  caused  ««"'=t  onlv  of  he  con  1-^^sf o  t^^^^   Mogul  kingdoms, 
this  prince  reminded  people  only  ot  t'''-  ^o"  l'''^^  ^       ,  jj  archives,  whilst 
The  proofs  of  his  atrocious  actions  were  l^;"f ,  "/''!^f  i'  'the  nation  as  im- 
Kazan,  Astrakhan,  and  S'^na  rema.n_^  n   the  e>  es  o,  tn       _^  ^_^  ^^^ 

perishable  monuments  of  his  glorj      .•'!',?'•'''„.•'  jed  or  forgot  the  sur- 
ffl'ustrious  author  of  their  l-'r^'^;; f  "^^^^^^S^  '^  S  0-^^  "' 

name  of  tyrant  given  l^^^^^y.^is  crSHtey  «till  call  him  Ivan  '  Ue 

rr^br^ttutiirfhtrhir^^^^^ 

f  *.«v«r«  between  Ri«»la  and  England,  r£d«' British  Factory  «ad(*i»^ 
•  For  history  of  inteiooiirse  DCtween  xmhbm        — » 


BW! 


!w^ 


**^*^* 


6 


1. — JT'tHtorlcal  Notice. 


Sect.  I. 


Russia. 


1. — Hif(torical  Notice, 


reduction  of  Kazan,  in  wliicli  lie  succeeaed  after  two  severe  campai^Tns  • 
the  next  was  the  subjection  of  Novcroro<l,  in  whicli   lie  also  succeeded' 
nicorporating  that  city  and  province  with  his  own  dominions,  and,  havinc^ 
received  the  oaths  of  the  inhabitants,  he  carried  ofl'  with  hiin  to  Moscow 
their  celebrated  Veche  bell.*    The  next  and  most  arduous  undertakin*^  was 
the  destruction  of  the  Golden  Horde  under  Akhmet,  which  he  eflccred  in 
revenge  for  the  insult  offered  him  by  that  Khan  in  demanding  the  homacre 
which  he  had  received  from  his  predecessors.     Ivan  spat  on^the  edict  and 
on  Akhmet's  sepl,  and  put  his  ambassadors  to  death,  sjiariix^  one  only  to 
convey  the  intelligence  to  his  master,  who  prepared  in  the  followin^r  year 
to  take  his  revenge;  but,  awed  by  the  prepamtions  made  to  receive h7m  on 
the  Oka,  he  retired  for  a  time,  and  subsequently  took  the  more  circuitous 
route  through  Lithuania,  from  which  country  he  expected  sui)i.ort-  the 
Jiussians  however,  met  and  defeated  a  part  of  his  horde,  and  were  returning 
Jiome,  when  the  Khan  was  met  on  a  ditlerent  route  by  the  Nocmy  'J\artars° 
Avho  routed  his  army  and  slew  him  in  the  battle.     His  ally,  Casimir  JV  ' 
also  brought  himself  under  Ivan's  indignation,  not  only  for  this  war,  but 
because  he  attempted  to  poison  him,  and  a  raid  that  he  made  into  the 
territories  of  the  Polish  king  was  eminently  successful.    This  powerful  and 
ambitious  prince  also  m;ide  treaties  of  alliance  with,  and  received  ambas- 
sadors from,  the  Tope,  the  Sultan,  the  Kings  of  Denmark  and  Poland,  and 
Irom  the  hepubhc  ot  Venice  ;  it  was  he  who  assumed  the  title  of  Grand  Prince 
of  Novgorod,  Vladimir,  Moscow,  and  all  Pussia,  and  changed  the  arms  of 
ht.  George  on  horseback  for  the  Black  Eagle  with  two  heads,  after  his 
marriage  with  Sophia,  a  princess  of  the  imperial  blood  of  Constantinople 
Jn  fact,  Ivan  HI.  may  be  called  the  true  founder  of  the  modern  Russian 
empire.     Ihe  Russian  historian  Karamsin  thus  describes  him :— "  Without 
l^ing  a  tyrant  like  his  grandson,  he  had  received  from  nature  a  certain 
Jiarsliness  of  character  which  he  knew  how  to  moderate  by  the  strenc^th  of 
his  reason.     It  is,  however,  said  that  a  sincrle  glance  of  Ivan,  when  he  was 
excited  with  anger,  would  make  a  timid  woman  swoon,  that  petitioners 
dreaded  to  approach  his  throne,  and  that  even  at  his  table  the  boyars  his 
grandees,  trembled  before  him ;"  which  portrait  does  not  belie  his  own 
declaration,  when  the  same  boyars  demanded  that  he  should  crive  the  crown 
to  his  grandson  Ivan,  whom  he  had  dispossessed  in  favour  o?a  son  by  his 
second  wile,  "I  will  give  to  Russia  whomsoever  I  please."     He  died  very 
inhrm,  m  loOo,   having  reigned   forty-three  years.     Wars  between  the 
hussians  the  Poles,  the  Tartars,  and  the  Kovaorodians  a^rain  arose  on  the 
death  of  Ivan  ;  and  it  was  not  till  the  death  of  Basil  IV.,  his  successor  and 
a  minority  of  twelve  years  had  elapsed  in  the  reign  of  Ivan  IV.,  that  internal 
caba  s  and  intrigues  were  for  a  time  suppressed,     ^'his  monarch,  the  first 
to  t<alve  the  title  of  7sar,-l  married  Anastasia,  the  daughter  of  ]?oman  Yury- 
vitch,  who  in  the  early  part  of  his  reign  had  the  hanpiest  ascendencv  over  a 
character  naturally  violent  and  cruel.     Ivan  was  at  this  period  afTable  and 
condescending,  accessible  to  both  rich  and  poor,  and  his  mental  powers 


*  For  the  history  of  that  ancient  Republic,  vide  Route  5. 

I„w^3'!?''''??^  of  Russia  had  lutherto  been  called  Grand  Princes.     Tsar  is  derived  from  the 
Czar  IS  a  coiTupt  orUiography  of  the  title,  and  in  Polish  reads  Vhar 


Greek  Kaisar. 


under  her  iniaancc,  were  cmiiloyed  in  advancing  the  inkrcsts  and  happi- 
ness of  his  subjects.     Ivan  s<K)n  perceived  that  to  preserve  his  own  VK)vver 
Te  nn.st  annihilate  the  Tart^u-  dominion;  to  this  lie  felt  his  uninstruc  ed 
army  was  unequal :  he  therefore  established,  in  154o,  the  mi litia  of  the 
Ssi    and  armed  them  with  muskets  instead  of  bo«s,-hitherto  their 
nrms  as  Uioir  name  imports,  from  Strela,  an  arrow.     He  then  laid  siege 
to Tm"ured  Ka^an,  taking  the  Khan  prisoner.     He  likewise  defeated 
Gusmvns  Wasa  in  a  pitched  battle  near  Wyborg,  ravaged  Livoma  taking 
Porpat,  Narva,  and  tliirty  fortified  towns,  and  made  war  on  the  King  ot 
Polai!d  because  he  had  refused  him  his  daughter  in  marriage      An  nnsuc- 
ccssful  campaign  against  this  jwtentate,  attributed  by  the  boyars  to  the 
S  f«l  arrangements  of  the  foreign  genor.als,   as  wel    as  the  dea  h  of 
his  wife  Anasta'sia,  whose  controlling  influence  was  no  longer  felt,  led  to 
the  unUniited  indukencc  of  his  naturally  ferocious  disposition ;   and  tl  o 
rem  u"  acts  of  his  life,  wliich  this  sliort  sketch  will  not  permit  us  to 
dihte     ™n    4ined  for  him  in  the  history  of  his  country  the  surname  of 
"  'rio  Trmt"   Inde^ndentlv  of  the  many  and  dreadful  acts  of  barbarity 
of  which  he  was  guilty,  he  killed  his  own  son  in  a  paroxysm  of  rage,  l)Ut 
d  cd  iTpr  y  to  the  grief  and  remorse  which  this  fearful  crime  occasioned, 
X  havhf?  endcavSured  to  atone  for  it  by  giving  largo  sums  of  money 
to  different  monasteries  :  he  received  the  tonsure  in  his  last  moments.    As 
a  IcSor  he  was  superior  to  his  predecessors,  having  with  the  assistance 
of  U  nobles  compiled  a  code  of  laws  called  Sudebnik.    In  his  reign  an 
Fniish  ship  commanded  by  Richard  Chancellor,  on  a  voyage  of  discoyerj- m 
K^t'c  Sea  anchored  in  the  mouth  of  the  Dwina.*     Ivan  controlled  his 
ieiwtou    pre  n'dLs,  and  tolerated  the  Lutheran  churches  of  the  German 
merehants  at  Moscow ;  but  he  never  shook  hands  with  a  foreign  amhas- 
rdorwihout  washing  his  own  immediately  after  the  visitor  l^'i'i.^ken  Ins 
Ce.    With  a  character  so  strongly  marked  by  cruelty,  superstition,  and 
canrice    it  is  remarkable  to  find  not  only  that  he  was  enterpnsing  and 
Sh'ent,  bu    that  he  should  have  entertained  the  idea  of  riacmg  the 
Scri  tures  in  the  hands  of  his  subjects  in  the  mother-tongue  :  he  ordered 
rtrSon  to  be  made  of  the  Acts  and  E|.istles,  and  had  it  disseminated 
^vrwf  dominions.     "  In  the  memory  of  tke  „>K  observes  ^-—^^^ 
"  the  brilliant    renown   of    Ivan   survived    the    recollection  of  his  bad 
aualities     The  groans  had  ceased,  the  victims  were  reduced  to  dust; 
new  events  caused  ancient  traditions  to  be  forgotten,  and  the  memory  of 
til  I  p  ince  rernded  people  only  of  the  conquest  of  three  Mogul  kingdoms 
The    roots  of  his  atrodor^  actions  were  buried  in  the  public  archives,  whilst 
Kazan  Astrakhan,  and  Siberia  remained  in  the  eyes  of  the  na  ion  as  im- 
J^^Xabfe  monum'ents  of  his  glory     The  Russians,  f  >«  X^  ^JJ™,^; 
illustrious  author  of  their  iiower  and  civilization,  rejected  or  forgot  the  sur 

me  0°  tyrant  given  him'  by  his  contemporaries  Under  tje '"A-f ^°f 
some  confused  recollections  of  his  cruelty  they  still  caU  him  1^  »!>/"« 
Mle'  without  distinguishing  him  from  his  grand  ather  Ivan  III.,  to 
;  on  Rnssia  had  given  tlie  same  epithet  rather  in  P-ise  than  m  reproach. 
History  does  not  pardon  wicked  princes  so  easily  as  do  people.      Ivau  IV . 

»  For  blstors-  of  intercourse  between  Russia  and  England,  iiufc  ■  British  Factory  and  Chapel.'  J 


8 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


Sect.  I. 


died  in  1584,  having  governed  the  Russian  nation  for  a  longer  period  tlnn 
any  other  sovereign,  namely,  fifty-one  years.'  °    ^ 

Theodore  I.,  who  nscendetl  the  throne  after  his  death,  and  was  a  feeble 

twl'If  "f  °^  f","?'  ^'"^  '"  ^'^^-    «'^  ''"^<='=^^°^  «'^«  Boris  GcSunof  hs 
^ile  s  brother,  who,  like  our  own  Richard,  compassed  the  death  of  his  nephe  v 

uj  nasty  ol  J{uriU,  which  during  seven  centuries  had  wielded  the  Russim 

S  hi  imrT""^  T'\  'if  t<^''  "=»""^  ""  '^'"''^  «f  civil  ^^lamti^s! 
nfrfnl-      Jn  l"''!''''''!"- '0  tbe  throne  arose  in  the  person  of  a  Russian 

monk.     I  his  man  assumed  the  characeer  of  the  murdered  Dmitri   and  alter 

&ri's  in  r'fi  M    '•''  ^'""?"'^  *'"  ^^-'"^  "»''  "'^^  ^'-^'-^ks  of  the  Don,  me' 
±ioris  in  the  field,  remained  master  of  it,  and  in  the  siace  of  one  year  seat«l 

tffl  ""t,"'"  ■'^'"""'-    Nor  was  this  civil  war  the  only  c°  amirv  M 

comt?v  ^    I    '"™   'J'r'  '""  ^  "■"'"''  ^''■'•'  "-^^  flevastated  the  Capital  of  a 
country     It  ,s  related  that,  driven  by  the  jangs  of  hunger,  instances  oc- 
curred of  mothers  having  first  slain  an,i  then  oate^i  their  own  children     and 
Ks  recorded  that  a  woman,  in  her  extremity,  seized  with  he    tee"li  'the 
flesh  ot  her  son,  whom  she  carried  in  her  arms      Others  con  fess id  tha   tl  e v 
lad  entrappe.1  into  their  dwellings,  and  subsequently  kilrf  aid  eae7 
three  men  successively.     One  hundred  and  twen  v-seven  tl  oimnd  con  ses 
remained  for  some  days  in   tlie  streets  unburied,  and  were  aftmvard^  tn 
terred  in  the  fields,  exclusive  of  those  wliich  had' been  pr   lu    J    nrf«nn 
the    our  hundred  churches  of  the  city.     An  evewit iicss  relate,  that   h^ 
awful   visitation  carried  off  500,000   persons    fVom    the   deitev^^itd 
capital,  the  jiopulation  of  whicli  was  al  the  time  augmented  by     lirfltx 
of  strangers      During  this  drea.lful  cal.amity,  Boris,  wUh  iustifi.able  violence 
hilt  L"'X'"  °''"'""''  ^'""'  ''^■"™'=  ''^^''^1"^-'.  ""J  I'ad  thrco™  sow'at 

Serfdom  w.as  institute.!  during  tlie  reign  of  Boris  Godunof.  By  his  advice 
a  decree  was  issued  on  the  24th  Nov.  1597,  a  year  previous  to  the  feth 
ol  Iheodore,  forbidding  peasants  to  leave  the  lands  on  which  that  dato 
should  liiid  them.  This  was  the  first  enactment  that  bound  he  ,",!Lantry 
firmly  to  he  so,  Earlier  ti-aces  of  their  attachment  are,  i  s  tr^e  ?o  te 
found  in  the  middle  of  the  13th  cent,,  during  the  Tartar  dominion  when  a 
census  was  aken,  in  1257,  in  order  to  secure  the  regular  coUec  ion  of 
taxes.     The  inhabitants  of  towns  and  villages  were  the,rforW,Men  to  leave 

he  mrAuions'^T^h"""' '"^^  "" f"-'™"  '"'"^^  "»  ^y -Icgrees of  ,"stri  ttng 
tion  Z^\f  ^!"'  ;■'"'"'  l«l'»l''^""»  'o  tl'e  commencement  or  termina- 

tion ot  the  agricultural  season.  The  custom  was  legalized  in  1497  nd 
confirmed  by  John  IV  in  1550;  bnt  the  full  and  final  attac  Iment  of  the 
hustan,lm,an  to  the  soil  was  not  consummated  until  the  close  ^f  the  16th 

Jnterminable  and  inexplicable  troubles,  a  second  false  Dmitri,  and  other 


Bussia. 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


impostors,  led,  after  the  short  rei^n  of  Shiiiski  (1605-1606),  to  the  occupa- 
tion of  Moscow  by  the  Poles,  in  1610,  who  entered  the  city  with  Vladislaus, 
son  of  Sigismund  King  of  Poland,  elected  to  the  throne  by  the  boyars,  on 
condition  that  he  should  embrace  the  Greek  religion.  'J'his  gave  great 
offence  to  the  national  feelinpr,  andMinin,  a  citizen  of  Xijni-Novgorod,  called 
his  countrymen  to  arms,  and  entreated  the  boyar  Pojarski  to  take  the  com- 
mand. Tliis  he  did  without  reluctance,  and  his  army  was  quickly  increased 
by  tlie  arrival  of  trooj^s  and  money  from  various  towns,  and  by  the  Cossiscks 
and  Streltsi,  who  flocked  to  his  banner.  Thus  strengthened,  they  Uiiiiched 
to  Yaroslaf,  and  afterwards  to  Moscow,  to  which  tlRy  laid  siege,  carried  the 
Kitai  Gorod  by  assault,  and  made  a  fearful  slaughter  of  the  Poles,  when 
the  occupants  of  the  Kremlin,  driven  to  the  last  extremity  by  famine, 
surrendered,  and  Vladislaus  abandoned  the  country. 

In  1613,  after  the  flight  of  Vladislaus,  the  States-General,  convoked  by 
the  boyars  and  militar}^  chiefs,  proceeded  to  elect  as  their  Tsar  Michael 
Romanoff,  the  son  of  the  Metropolitan  of  Eostof,  who  was  at  the  time  only 
sixteen  years  of  age.  He  was  j^roclaimed  Tsar  of  all  the  Pussias,  without 
the  title  of  Autocrat,  enjoyed  by  the  Sovereigns  after  John  III.,  and 
the  Act  of  Election  stipulated  many  important  rights  to  the  people. 
Civil  strife  and  foreign  wars  continued  after  the  accession  of  Michael ; 
and  that  in  which  the  Tsar  was  involved  with  Gustavus  Adolphus  was 
terminated,  not  much  to  the  advantage  of  Russia,  through  the  mediation 
of  England,  France,  and  Holland.  A  treaty  was  signed  by  the  belligerent 
parties  on  the  26tli  of  January,  1616,  which  gave  to  Sweden  Jngria, 
Carelia,  Livonia,  and  Esthonia,  the  Russians  retaining  Novgorod. 
The  Poles  were  at  that  time  masters  of  Smolensk,  and  lavaged  the 
country  up  to  the  walls  of  Moscow,  against  which  they  made  a  night 
attack,  but  were  repulsed  ;  they  remained,  however,  in  possession  of 
Smolensk,  after  sustaining  a  siege  of  two  years.  Dragoons  arc  mentioned 
for  the  first  time  in  this  reign,  as  fonuing  part  of  a  Pius.sian  army,  and  the 
Tsar  was  assisted  in  his  wars  by  both  German  and  French  troops ;  these 
regiments  served  him  as  models  lor  the  organization  of  the  Russian  army, 
which  was  further  improved  by  the  discipline  introduced  by  Scottish 
oflicors.  After  a  reign  distinguislied  by  an  enlightened  policy  and  virtuous 
habits,  the  Tsar  died  in  July,  1645,  at  the  age  of  forty-nine  years.  His  son 
Alexis,  who  was  a  prince  of  a  mild  and  benevolent  disposition,  succeeded 
liim.  The  chief  events  of  his  reign  were  the  rnarauding  expeditions  of  the 
Cossacks  of  the  Don,  led  by  Stenka  Razin,  a  rebellion  in  the  city  of  Astra- 
khan, and  the  apjiearance  of  another  Pretender,  who  was  brought  cajitive 
to  Moscow,  and  put  to  a  violent  and  cruel  death.  In  this  reign  shijiwrights 
came  over  from  Holland  and  England,  and  a  Dutclnuan  named  Butler  built 
a  vessel  called  the  Eagle,  at  Dedinova,  a  village  on  the  Oka  river,  near  the 
mouth  of  the  !Moskva.  This  was  the  first  shij)  that  the  Russians  had  seen 
built  on  scientific  principles.  The  Tsar  Alexis  directed  his  attention  to 
legal  reforms,  and  his  reign  is  most  remarkable  for  the  improvements  whicli 
he  introduced.  The  States-General,  a  body  composed  of  delegates  horn  all 
clas.ses,  and  first  summoned  in  1550,  after  the  sup]iression  of  the  old  Vech6 
or  Wittcnagemotes,  were  convoked  in  1648,  for  the  compilation  of  a  new 

B  3 


10 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


Sect.  I. 


code  of  laws.  Little  Russia  and  Picd  Ilussia  (Galicia),  conquered  by  Ca- 
simir  the  Great  in  the  14th  century,  submittcil  to  Alexis.  An  account  of 
his  quarrel  with  the  Patriarch  Nicon,  and  of  the  origin  of  dissent  in  the 
Russian  Church,  will  be  read  in  Route  6.  Alexis  died  in  167G,  and  was 
succeeded  by  his  son  Theodore  III.,  who  died  young  in  1GS2.  During  the 
short  period  allotted  him  for  the  exercise  of  power  he  evinced  every  disjx)- 
sition  to  carry  out  his  father's  })lans  ;  he  directed  his  attention  to  the  im- 
provement of  the  laws,  and  rendered  justice  accessible  to  all,  and,  in  the 
words  of  a  Russian  historian,  "  lived  the  joy  and  delight  of  his  people,  and 
died  amidst  their  sighs  and  tears.  On  the  day  of  his  death  Moscow  was  in 
the  same  distress  that  Rome  was  on  the  death  of  Titus."  The  sovereignty 
of  the  Cossacks  was  secured  to  Russia  in  this  reign.  Theodore  left  no  chil- 
dren, and  named  no  successor,  expecting,  no  doubt,  that  his  own  brother 
Ivan  would  succeed  him.  That  prince,  however,  was  both  mentally  and 
physically  incapable  of  holding  the  reins  of  government,  and,  in  conse- 
quence, his  sister  Sophia  was  intrusted  with  the  affairs  of  state  by  the 
Streltsi,  who  had  arrogated  to  themselves  the  power  of  the  Prastorian  bands, 
and  decided  that  the  Tsar's  half-brother,  Peter,  afterwards  the  Great,  the 
son  of  Natalia,  Alexis's  second  wife,  should  share  the  throne  with  him. 
The  two  boys  were  therefore  crowned  together  by  the  Patriarch  on  the 
15th  of  June,  1682,  but  Sophia  actually  reigned.  Subsequently  to  this 
the  Prince  Khovanski,  leader  of  the  Streltsi,  not  only  neglecting  to  cultivate 
the  princess's  friendship,  but  allowing  her  to  perceive  that  he  and  his  men 
watched  her  proceedings,  she  determined  upon  his  ruin,  which  was  further 
hastened  by  the  intrigue  of  his  known  enemy,  Miloslavski.  This  boyar 
accused  him,  in  a  public  placard,  of  having,  with  his  son  and  his  Streltsi, 
conspired  to  effect  the  death  of  the  two  Tsars  and  the  destruction  of  the 
family  of  Romanoff;  and,  under  this  accusation,  Khovanski  and  his  son 
were  seized  and  beheaded.  Their  followers,  at  first  furious  at  Khovanski's 
death,  afterwards  becoming  disheartened  at  the  preparations  made  to  resist 
and  punish  them,  proceeded  to  the  monastery  of  the  Troitsa,  and  made 
their  submission  to  Natalia  and  the  Tsars,  who  had  fled  there  for  refuge. 
Subsequently  Sophia  still  contrived,  with  the  assistance  of  her  Minister, 
Galitzin,  to  govern  Russia,  until  she  affronted  Peter,  who  retired  to  the 
town  of  Kolomna,  to  which  place  he  was  followed  by  a  large  party ;  and 
soon  after  this,  being  informed  that  the  Streltsi  were  again  in  revolt,  under 
Sophia's  influence,  Natalia  once  more  removed  him  to  the  fortified  walls 
of  the  Troitsa.  It  was  in  vain  that  Sophia  disclaimed  this  accusation. 
Peter  neither  believed  her  nor  forgave  her  ;  and,  failing  in  her  attempt  to 
reach  Poland,  she  was  incarcerated  in  a  monastery  for  the  rest  of  her  life. 
This  princess  was,  considering  the  times  in  which  she  lived,  a  woman  of 
extraordinary  taste  and  literary  acquirements,  A  tragedy,  written  by  her 
when  she  was  involved  in  state  intrigues,  and  apparently  absorbed  in  poli- 
tical turmoil,  is  still  preserved.  On  Peter's  return  from  the  'Proitsa  to 
Moscow,  his  brother  resigned  to  him  his  share  in  the  government,  and  in 
1G89  lie  became  sole  Tsar,  being,  at  this  time,  only  seventeen  years  of  age. 
Ivan  survived  till  1696. 

The  ruling  passion  of  Peter  the  Great  was  a  desire  to  extend  his  empire 
and  consolidate  his  power ;  and  accordingly,  his  first  act  was  to  make  war 


Eussia. 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


11 


on  the  Turks,  an  undertaking  which  was  at  the  outset  imprudently  con- 
ducted, and  consequently  unsuccessful ;  he  lost  30,000  men  before  Azoff, 
and  did  not  obtain  permanent  possession  of  the  town  till  the  year  1699,  and 
then  by  an  armistice.  In  the  following  year  he  was  defeated  at  Narva  by 
an  inferior  force,  under  Charles  XII.,  then  only  a  boy  of  seventeen  ;  and  on 
many  other  occasions  the  Russians  suffered  severe  checks  and  reverses.  But 
at  length  the  indomitable  perseverance  of  Peter  prevailed.  St.  Petersburg 
was  founded  in  1703,  under  the  circumstances  detailed  in  the  description  of 
the  city.  In  1705  he  carried  Narva,  the  scene  of  his  former  defeat,  by 
assault ;  and  two  years  after,  by  the  crowning  victory  of  Poltava,  where  he 
showed  the  qualities  of  an  able  general,  he  sealed  the  fate  of  his  gallant  and 
eccentric  adversary,  and  that  of  the  nation  over  which  he  ruled.  In  1711 
Peter  once  more  took  the  field  against  the  Turks  ;  but  his  troops  were  badly 
•j-trovisioned,  and,  having  led  them  into  a  very  disadvantageous  position  near 
the  Pruth,  he  was  reduced  to  propose  a  peace,  one  of  the  conditions  of  which 
was  that  the  King  of  Sweden  should  be  permitted  to  return  to  his  own 
country.  From  this  period  to  1718  he  was  constantly  occupied  in  jmr- 
suing  with  vigour  the  plans  which  he  had  originated  for  extending  the 
fronUers  of  his  kingdom  towards  the  sea  ;  and  in  1718  he  drove  the  Swedes 
out  of  Finland,  made  several  descents  upon  the  coast  near  Stockholm, 
destroyed  whole  towns,  and  finally,  in  1721,  by  the  peace  of  Nystadt,  re- 
tained' Esthonia,  Livonia,  Ingria,  a  part  of  Carelia  and  Finland,  as  well  as 
the  islands  of  Dago,  Moen,  Oescl,  &c.  Having  now  no  enemy  on  this  side, 
he  turned  his  arms  eastward,  and  took  Derbcnd,  on  the  Caspian,  in  1724 — 


We  have  said  that  the  Tsar's  ruling  passion  was  to  extend  his  empire 
and  consolidate  his  power,  but  he  likewise  jjossessed  in  an  eminent 
degree  a  ])ersevering  mind  and  a  resolute  will,  which  bid  defiance  to' 
alf  difficulties.  By  the  assistance  of  his  foreign  officers  he  succeeded 
in  forming  and  bringing  into  a  high  state  of  discipline  a  large  army ; 
he  found 


'no 

Russia  without 


a  fishing-smack,  and  bequeathed  to  her  a 
navy,  to  which  that  of  Sweden,  long  established  and  highly  efficient, 
lowered  her  flag ;  he  built  Petersburg,  which  may  be  said  to  float  upon  the 
waters  of  the  Nsva  ;  he  caused  canals  and  other  works  of  public  utility  to 
be  constructed  in  various  parts  of  the  empire,  endowed  colleges  and  univer- 
sities, and  established  commercial  relations  with  China  and  almost  every 
other  nation  on  the  globe.  The  Tsar  likewise  possessed  the  capability  of 
enduring  privation  and  bodily  fatigue  to  an  almost  incredible  extent,  and 
seemed  to  act  upon  the  idea  that  by  his  own  personal  exertions  and  the 
versatility  of  his  genius  he  could  accomplish  for  Russia  that  which  it  had 
taken  centuries  to  eflect  in  other  countries,  and  fancied  he  could  infuse  int\> 
her  citizens  an  immediate  appreciation  of  the  mechanical  and  polite  arts, 
as  well  as  a  taste  for  those  things  which  are  seen  only  in  an  advanced  stage 
of  civilization.  Peter  devoted  his  whole  attention  and  energies  to  this 
theory,  and,  though  he  could  not  compass  impossibilities,  he  was  enabled, 
by  the  uncontrolled  exercise  of  iho  imperial  will  and  inexhaustible  re- 
sources, to  effect  a  most  extraordinary  and  rapid  change  in  the  political  and 


12 


1. — Histmcal  Notice, 


Sect.  I. 


physical  condition  of  his  country.  The  States-General  were  no  more 
summoned.  The  Tsar  now  reigned  alone,  without  even  the  old  Chamber 
or  Council  of  Boyars,  that  had  existed  throu^^h  so  many  previous  reigns. 
In  their  place  he  founded  the  Senate,  or  High  Court  of  Justice,  which  is 
])reserved  to  this  day.  His  system  of  administration  was  founded  on  the 
Swedish  Collegiate  Institutions.  Dissent  from  the  Church  was  very  much 
increased  by  his  reforms,  which  even  included  the  shaving  of  beards.  The 
opponents  of  the  ritual  of  Nicon  styled  him  the  Antichrist. 

The  manual  dexteritv  and  mechanical  knowledge  of  Peter  were  great. 
Against  the  expressed  wish  of  his  boyars  and  the  clergy,  who  thought  it 
an  irreligious  act,  he  left  Russia  to  make  himself  acquainted  with  the  arts 
and  inventions  of  other  European  nations,  and  worked  with  an  adze  in 
their  ])rincipal  dockyards — he  not  only  built,  but  sailed  his  own  boat,  which 
is  still  to  be  seen  in  St.  Petersburg,  as  are  specimens  of  his  engraving, 
turning,  and  carpenter's  work.  He  rose  at  four,  at  six  he  was  either  in  the 
senate  or  the  admiralty,  and  his  subjects  must  have  believed  that  he  had 
the  gift  of  ubiquity,  so  many  and  various  were  his  occupations.  He  had 
also  the  virtue  of  economy,  a  quality  rarely  seen  in  a  sovereign.  He  even 
found  time  for  literature,  and  translated  several  works  into  Russian ; 
amongst  these  was  the  *  Architecture '  of  Lcclerc,  and  the  *  Art  of  Con- 
structing Dams  and  Mills'  by  Sturm  ;  these  MSS.  are  preserved.  During 
the  Tsar's  visit  to  London  he  was  much  gazed  at  by  the  populace,  and  on 
one  occasion  was  upset  by  a  porter  who  j^ushed  against  him  with  his  load, 
when  Lord  Carmarthen,  fearing  there  would  be  a  pugilistic  encounter, 
turned  angrily  to  the  man,  and  said,  "  Don't  you  know  that  this  is  the 
TsarV"  "Tsar!"  replied  the  man,  with  his  tongue  in  his  cheek,  "we 
are  all  Tsars  liere."  Sauntering  one  day  into  Westminster  Hall  with  the 
same  nobleman,  when  it  was,  as  usual,  alive  with  wigs  and  gowns,  Peter 
asked,  who  these  peoj)le  might  be,  and,  when  informed  that  they  were 
lawyers,  nothing  could  exceed  his  astonishment.  "Lawyers!"  he  said; 
**  why,  I  have  but  two  in  all  my  dominions,  and  I  believe  I  shall  hang  one 
of  them  the  moment  I  get  home."  His  vices  were  such  as  to  have  been 
expected  in  a  man  of  his  violent  temperament,  desjiotic  in  a  barbarous 
country,  and  who  in  early  life  had  been  surrounded  by  llatterers  and  dis- 
solute associates.  But  it  would  be  foreign  to  the  imrpose  of  this  work  to 
enter  into  a  discussion  of  this  nature.  The  Russians  date  their  civilization 
from  his  reign ;  but  a  slight  glance  at  the  history  of  some  of  the  early 
Tsars  will  show  that,  in  many  of  the  points  on  whicli  the  greatness  of  his 
reputation  rests,  he  was  anticipated  by  his  ])redecessors.  Dark  and  savage 
as  the  history  of  the  country  is,  an  attempt  at  public  education  had  been 
made,  religious  toleration  and  an  anxiety  to  promote  commerce  existed,  and 
the  institution  of  a  code  of  laws  had  already  occui)ied  attention.  'Iho 
untimely  deaths  of  some  of  these  princes  deprived  Russia  of  monarchs  far 
more  benevolent  than  Peter,  men  of  finer  and  more  generous  minds,  and, 
though  not  so  ambitious,  quite  as  anxious  for  her  welfare.  Under  their 
sway  no  such  rush  at  improvement  would  have  been  made ;  no  such  influx 
of  foreigners  would  have  taken  place  ;  but,  if  not  so  rapidly,  at  least  as 
surely  these  sovereigns  would  have  effected  quite  as  mucii  real  good. 
Peter  left  no  code  of  laws  established  on  the  broad  principles  of  justice ;  he 


Russia. 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


13 


travelled  in  England  and  Holland,  but  thought  only  of  their  navies,  and 
wholly  overlooked  the  great  principles  of  their  government,  by  which  he 
might  have  ameliorate^d  the  condition  of  his  own.  Trial  by  jury  never 
appears  to  have  attracted  his  attention.  Tlie  Tsar,  it  is  true,  reigned  over 
a  nation  of  serfs— so  did  Alfred,  and  in  the  9th,  instead  of  the  18th 
century.  The  death  of  liis  son  Alexis,  in  the  fortress  of  St.  Petersburg, 
whether  by  violence  or  from  the  effects  of  torture,  is  an  indelible  blot  on 
his  character.  The  unhappy  Tsarevitch  was  opposed  to  his  father's 
reforms,  and  fled  his  dominions.  Liduced  by  Peter  to  return  to  Russia, 
he  was  thrown  into  a  dungeon,  where  he  suddenly  died,  after  a  cross 
examination,  conducted  by  the  Tsar  in  person,  and  a  frequent  api)lication  of 
torture.  The  l^npress  Catherine  survived  Peter  only  two  yeai-s,  dying  at 
the  age  of  thirty-nine.  The  reduction  of  the  capitation  tax  was  the  most 
popular  act  of  her  short  reign,  and  Delille,  Baer,  and  the  Bernouillis  were 
the  most  distinguished  members  of  the  Academy  of  Sciences  which  Peter 
had  left  her  to  open.  Peter,  the  son  of  Alexis,  and  grandson  of  Peter  the 
Great  (by  his  first  wife  Eudoxia,  who  survived  Catherine),  died  of  the 
smallpox  at  the  age  of  fifteen  ;  in  him  the  male  line  of  the  Romanofis 
became  extinct.  His  intellect  was  good,  and,  though  so  young,  lie  gave 
sreat  jjromise  of  being  an  honour  and  a  blessing  to  his  country.  Anne, 
Duchess  of  Courland,  who  succeeded  this  youthful  sovereign,  was  daughter 
of  Ivan,  half-brother  of  Peter  the  Great;  she  died  in  1740,  after  reign- 
ing ten  years.  Her  chief  merit  was  in  advancing  the  commerce  of  the 
country,  and  establishing  silk  and  woollen  manufactories— her  chief  folly, 
the  building  of  a  palaceof  ice,  to  which  she  sent  one  of  her  bufioons  and 
his  wife  to  pass  the  night  of  their  wedding-day,  the  nuptial  couch  being 
also  constructed  of  that' cold  material,  as  well  as  all  the  furniture,  and  the 
four  cannons  which  fired  several  rounds. 

The  Duchess  of  Courland  was  elected  to  the  throne  by  the  nobles,  who 
caused  her  to  subscribe  to  a  constitution  or  charter,  of  which  the  principal 
points  were  that— "  Without  the  advice  of  the  council,  rendered  irre- 
movable, the  sovereign  could  neither  declare  war  nor  make  peace  ;  nor 
could  he  choose  a  successor,  appoint  to  the  higher  offices  of  state,  or  impose 
new  taxes.  The  sovereign  was  not  to  punish  the  gentry,  either  corporally 
or  by  the  infliction  of  fines,  without  submitting  their  off'ences  to  the  or- 
dinary courts  of  justice."  The  empress  availed  herself  of  the  discord 
which  soon  reigned  in  her  council  to  re-establish  the  absolutism  she  had 
surrendered.  A  sham  revolution  was  organized  by  exciting  the  jealousy  of 
the  inferior  nobility,  and  by  acting  on  the  ignorance  of  the  lower  classes. 
A  populace  having  assembled  in  front  of  the  palace,  and  asked  to  see  the 
empress,  she  pointed  out  to  Prince  Dolgorukof,  the  High  Chancellor,  that 
the  i^eople  were  desirous  that  she  should  govern  like  her  ancestors. 
"  What,"  she  asked,  "have  you  said  in  your  Constitution?"  Taking  the 
Charter'  from  the  trembling  hand  of  the  i)rince,  she  tore  it  into  pieces 
before  the  applauding  multitude.  Her  favourite,  Biren,  Duke  of  Courland, 
caused  all  the  members  of  the  Dolgoruki  faction  to  be  either  broken  on  the 
wheel  or  banished  to  the  mines  of  Siberia  for  ever. 

A  war  which  was  prosecuted  against  tlie  Turks  in  this  reign  ended  to 


14 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


Sect.  I. 


the'disad vantage  of  Russia,  and,  as  tho  price  of  peace,  AzofF,  Otchakof,  and 
Moldavia  were  given  up  to  the  Porte.  Intrigues  drove  Ivan  VI.,  the 
infant  son  of  the  Princess  of  Brunswick,  niece  of  the  Emi)ress  Anne,  from 
the  throne,  and  in  1741,  Elizabetli,  daughter  of  Peter  the  Great,  took 
possession  of  it.  Ivan  was  lirst  imjjrisoned  in  a  monastery,  but,  liaving 
attempted  to  escape,  was  removed  to  the  Castle  of  SchlUsselburg,  where  ho 
was  put  to  death. 

The  reign  of  Elizabeth  was  one  scries  of  wars  and  intrigues,  and  wholly 
unfiivourable  to  the  intellectual  improvement  and  progress  of  the  people. 
The  Swedes  thought  this  a  favourable  moment  to  recover  their  ancient 
possessions,  but  were  obliged  to  agree  to  a  peace  on  the  basis  of  that  of 
Nystadt.  Detesting  Frederic  for  some  coarse  remark  levelled  at  her  mother, 
Elizabeth  made  war  with  Prussia,  which  lasted  from  1753  to  1762,  the 
year  of  her  death.  The  taste  of  this  emj^ress  for  architecture  greatly  con- 
tributed to  embellish  St.  Petersburg,  and  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  in 
that  capital  was  instituted  by  her  ;  but  she  was  a  model  of  hypocrisy,  and, 
wlrile  from  feelings  of  pretended  humanity  she  abolished  ca})ital  punish- 
ments and  deplored  the  miseries  her  troops  suffered  in  the  u.^r  with 
Prussia,  she  established  a  kind  of  Star  Chamber,  in  which  justice  and 
mercy  were  unknown.  Peter  III.,  son  of  the  Princess  Anne,  eldest 
daughter  of  Peter  the  Great,  succeeded  Elizabeth,  and,  being  a  great  friend 
of  Frederic,  he  immediately  made  peace  with  Prussia  ;  he  also  suppressed 
the  secret  council  established  for  the  examination  of  political  offenders, 
softened  the  rigour  of  military  discipline,  permitted  his  nobles  to  travel, 
lowered  the  duties  in  the  Livonian  ports,  reduced  the  \mcc  of  salt,  and 
abated  the  ]>ressure  of  usury  by  the  establishment  of  a  loan  bank,  and 
instituted  other  salutary  and  wise  measures.  He  was,  however,  of  a. weak 
and  vacillating  disposition,  and  his  tastes  were  entirely  German,  which 
amounted  to  a  crime  in  the  eyes  of  the  nobility  ;  this  and  the  intrigues  of 
his  wife,  afterwards  the  l^mpress  Catherine  II.,  whom  he  grossly  neglected, 
led  to  his  downfall,  and  he  died  by  sutfocation  at  Poi)sha  in  1762. 

The  reign  of  Catlierine  II.  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  in  Russian 
history.  In  the  early  part  of  it  she  interfered  in  the  affairs  of  Poland, 
which  produced  a  civil  war,  and  ended  in  the  conquest  of  that  country. 
In  1769  the  Turks  declared  war,  which  was  at  first  favourable  to  their 
arms  ;  they  were  afterwards  defeated  with  great  slaughter  on  the  Dniester, 
and  abandoned  Khotin.  At  this  period  was  fought  the  celebrated  action 
before  Tchesme,  in  wliich  the  Turkish  fleet  was  completely  destroyed, 
an  achievement  that  was  mainly  owing  to  the  gallant  conduct  of  Admirals 
Elphinstone  and  Greig,  and  Lieutenant  Dugdale,  Englishmen  in  the 
Russian  service.  In  another  campaign  the  Russians  carried  the  lines  of 
Perecop,  defended  by  57,000  Turks  and  Tartars,  and  thus  obtained  pos- 
session of  the  Crimea,  while  Rumiantsoff  gained  several  victories  in  the 
Danubian  provinces,  'i'hese  conquests  were,  however,  dearly  ]  purchased ; 
the  plague  passed  from  the  Turks  into  the  Piussian  armies,  and  the  frightful 
malady  was  carried  by  the  troops  into  the  very  heart  of  the  country ;  800 
persons  died  daily  at  ^loscow,  and  the  disease  subsided  only  with   the 


Russia. 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


15 


severity  of  the  winter.  It  was  in  this  year  that  the  Kalmuck  Tartars,  who 
liad  been  upwards  of  half  a  centmy  settled  near  the  step]ies  of  the  Volga, 
north  of  Astrakhan,  suddenly,  and  to  the  number  of  350,000  souls,  left 
the  Russian  territory  for  their  old  haunts  on  the  Chinese  border — an 
affront  offered  to  them  by  the  empress  is  said  to  have  been  the  cause  ,of 
this  extraordinary  flight.  Every  attempt  at  negotiation  having  failed,  the 
contest  with  the  Turks  was  renewed  in  1773;  and  though  the  Russians 
again  suffered  severe  losses,  liumiantsoff  brought  the  war  to  a  successful 
termination  ;  and,  by  the  treaty  of  peace  concluded  in  1 774,  his  country 
obtained  the  free  navigation  of  the  Euxine,  the  cession  of  Kinbuni, 
Yenikale,  with  a  tract  between  the  Bug,  the  Dnieper,  and  Taganrog.  Russia 
restored  her  other  conquests,  and  the  Turks  paid  into  the  Russian  Treasury 
4,000,000  of  rubles  towards  the  expenses  of  the  war ;  they  also  acknow- 
ledged the  independence  of  the  Crimea,  which  in  the  year  1784  fell  alto- 
gether into  the  hands  of  Russia,  as  well  as  the  island  of  Taman  and  part 
of  the  Kuban.  Shortly  after  this,  Catherine  and  the  northern  courts,  with 
France,  jealous  of  British  maritime  power,  brought  about  a  combination 
against  England,  which  was  hastened  by  the  following  singular  incident. 
The  British  minister,  fearing  that  this  intrigue  was  going  on,  desired 
Potemkin  to  lay  before  the  empress  a  memorial  that  he  had  drawn  up,  which 
the  prince  promised  to  do.  Of  this  memorial  the  French  governess  of  his 
nieces  contrived  to  possess  herself,  and,  after  allowing  the  French  minister 
to  make  his  notes  in  refutation  of  it  in  the  margin,  replaced  it  in  Po- 
temkin's  pocket,  who,  ignorant  of  the  circumstance,  laid  it  before 
Catherine  ;  when  the  empress,  conceiving  the  notes  to  have  been  made  by 
her  favourite,  formed  a  league  with  Sweden  and  Denmark,  and  announced 
her  intention  of  sup})orting  it  with  her  navy.  In  1787  she  made,  in  com- 
pany with  Potemkin  and  an  immense  suite,  her  famous  progress  to  the 
Crimea,  and  the  following  year  found  her  once  more  at  war  with  the  Turks. 
Finland  was  invaded  by  Gustavus  III.  soon  after.  This  contest  was 
settled  by  a  pacification  in  1790.  In  the  close  of  that  year  Constantinople 
trembled  at  the  forward  movement  of  the  Russians,  and  the  fall  of  Ismail 
under  Suwaroff,  after  the  ninth  assault,  closed  the  war  on  the  22nd  of 
December.  In  this  extremity  Europe  combined  to  save  the  Porte  from 
destruction,  and  in  179x  Russia  relinquished  all  the  territory  she  had 
acquired,  excepting  that  guaranteed  by  the  treaty  of  1784.  In  these  wars 
with  the  Ottoman  Empire  there  were  destroyed  130,000  Austrians,  200,000 
Piussians,  and  370,000  'J  urks,  in  all  660,000  men.  About  this  time  the 
intrigues  of  Russia,  Austria,  and  Prussia,  for  the  partition  of  Poland,  com- 
menced, and,  carried  on  for  several  years,  were  brought  to  a  conclusion  by 
two  sieges  of  Warsaw  ;  in  the  first  Kosciusko  was  made  prisoner,  and  in 
the  second  the  Poles,  luiassistcd  by  his  genius,  gave  way  in  that  fearful 
assault  which,  on  the  9tli  November,  1794,  consummated  the  ruin  of 
Poland  as  a  nation.  Catherine's  subsequent  j^lans  of  aggrandisement  in 
Daghestan  and  on  the  shores  of  the  Caspian  were  cut  short  by  her  death, 
on  the  9th  November,  1796.  The  great  talents  for  governing  which  the 
empress  possessed  are  universally  admitted  ;  and,  though  her  energies  were 
])rii!cipally  displayed  in  carrying  out  her  schemes  of  foreign  conquest,  she 
by  no  means  neglected  the  interior  economy  of  her  empire.     Iler  views  on 


IG 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


Sect.  I. 


all  subjects  were  far  more  enlarged  than  those  of  her  predecessors,  and 
upwards  of  68C0  children  were  educated  at  St.  Petersburg  at  the  public 
expense.  She  invited  Pallas,  Eiiler,  and  Gmelin  to  survey  her  terri- 
tories and  describe  their  cliaracteristics,  and  requested  D'Alembert  to 
undertake  the  education  of  her  grandson,  the  Grand  Duke  Alexander, 
which  he  declined.  The  empress  also  confirmed  the  abolition  of  the  secret 
state  inquisition,  and,  by  dividing  the  administrative  colleges  of  the  empire 
into  separate  departments,  facilitated  the  despatch  of  business,  and  rendered 
the  administration  in  each  more  eflicient.  With  a  view  to  check  corrup- 
tion, she  raised  the  salaries  of  the  government  officers,  put  down  many 
monopolies  of  the  crown,  and  issued  an  ukaz,  which  ])revented  any  pro- 
prietor from  sending  his  serfs  to  the  mines,  or  to  any  distant  part  of  the 
empire,  except  for  agricultural  i)ur]!Oses.  She  ])urchascd  tlie  j)r{iises  of 
the  French  ])ljiloso])hers,  corresponded  with  Voltaire  and  D'Alembert,  and 
complimented  Fox  by  asking  him  for  his  bust,  which  she  placed  between 
those  of  Cicero  and  Demosthenes. 

Catherine  came  to  the  tlirone  eager  for  fame  and  anxious  to  put  into 
practice  the  philosophic  doctrines  of  the  age.  It  may  even  be  said  that 
she  was  desirous  of  reigning  constitutionally  as  far  as  serfage  would  permit 
her.     But  she  was  most  anxious  to  be  a  lawgiver,  and  her  more  liberal 


of 
composed 

of  565  deputies  from  the  nobility,  the  inhabitants  of  towns,  the  military 
colonies,  and  the  foreign  races  subject  to  the  empire,  as  well  as  from 
the  senate,  tlie  synofl,  and  other  ]mblic  oflices.  This  Commission — a  Par- 
liament all  but  in  name— met  on  the  31st  July,  17G7,  at  Moscow,  and, 
after  listening  to  the  representations  made  by  the  several  interests,  drew 
up  the  drafts  of  laws  which  Catherine  subsequentlv  enacted,  and  which 
contributed  greatly  to  the  glory  of  lier  reign.  Put  "the  Assembly  having 
commenced  an  inquiry  into  the  evil  of  serfdom,  the  empress  dissolved  it 
on  the  29th  December  of  the  same  year. 

The  p:nii)ress  Catherine  introduced  im]wtant  changes  into  the  condition 
of  the  nobility  and  clergy.  The  history  of  these  may  be  here  ejiitomi/cd. 
The  C()mrades,  or  drujina,  of  the  early'princes  of  Pussia  long  retained  a 
nomadic  character.  They  jassod  iVom  one  prince  to  another  as  those 
princes  ascended  in  the  scale  of  i>rimogenituro  and  passed  on  to  the  throne 
of  Kief.  They  acquired  no  lands,  and  lived  on  the  contributions  which 
they  levied  on  the  Zemstvo,  or  "  jieoplc  of  the  land,"  as  distinguished  frOm 
the  servants  of  the  sovereign.  On  the  establishment  of  the  throne  of 
Muscovy,  the  drujina  of  the  dei^osed  princes  re]iaired  to  ^Toscow  for  em- 
ployment in  the  service  of  the  State,  and  styled  themselves  bondsmen  of 
the  Tsar.  At  his  court  they  quarrelled  peri)etuallv*about  the  rii^ht  of  ]^rc- 
cedence.  Each  family  guarded  jealously  its  position  in  relation  to  other 
families ;  and  each  individual  above  the  condition  of  a  labourer  had  an 
hereditary  nglit,  most  intricately  regulated,  to  a  certain  social  position,  which 
he  spent  his  whole  life  in  asserting.  The  nobles  having  become  unruly  during 
the  reign  of  John  the  Terrible,  that  sovereign  ]mt  to  death  a  considerable 
imniber  of  liis  servants,  and  kept  the  rest  in  subordination  with  a  new  class 


Russia. 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


17 


of  nobles,  the  Opritchna,  who  carried  out  his  instructions  wuth  unsparing 
brutality.  They  murdered  their  victims  openly  in  the  streets,  and,  led  by 
the  Tsar,  visited  villages  during  the  night  and  razed  them  to  the  ground. 
It  was  with  the  assistance  of  these  servants  that  John  IV.  subjected  all  his 
lieges  to  despotic  government.  The  old  boyars  deserted  to  the  Prince  of 
Lithuania,  and  many  were  caught  and  punished.  After  that  reicjn  the 
older  fomilies  succeeded  in  causing  Shiuski,  one  of  their  order,  to  be  elected 
Tsar :  but  on  the  accession  of  Michael  Roman ofit"  all  their  privile<^es  were 
abolished,  and  the  coele  of  1649,  drawn  up  by  the  States-General,  or  Zemstvo, 
rendered  all  subjects  equal  before  the  law.  a'he  nobles,  however,  now 
began  to  acquire  lands,  which  they  at  first  hold  as  feudatories  under  the 
Crown,  liable  to  military  service.  Peter  the  Great  converted  those  lands 
into  freeholds,  and  at  the  same  time  bound  the  proprietors  to  perpetual 
service.  The  Senate  called  up  the  young  boyars  from  the  country,  and 
allotted  civil  and  military  functions  to  them.  In  1736  the  period  of  service 
Avas  reduced  to  25  years,  and  in  1701  the  nobles  were  allowed  the  discretion 
of  serving  the  State  or  not.  As  every  nobleman  had  been  oblicred  to  serve, 
so  every  man  that  served  the  Crown  acquired  nobility  through  his  chin,  or 
official  rank.  The  nobility  are  still  styled  "courtiers"  in  the  Russian  lan- 
guage, and  a  chinovnik  is  always  a  nobleman. 

An  imix)rtant  feature  in  the  social  life  of  Russia  is  that  the  right  of 
primogeniture  does  not  exist,  except  in  a  few  great  families.  By  an 
ukaz  of  1713,  Peter  I.  desired  to  introduce  an  inheritance  in  fee  of  the 
eldest  son,  but  this  was  so  much  opix)sed  to  the  customs  and  traditions 
of  the  people  that  it  was  abandoned.  Peter  II.  cancelled  the  ukaz  in 
1728. 

^  Under  the  predecessors  of  Catherine  the  courtiers  had  assumed  a  con- 
siderable amount  of  power,  and  now  demanded  a  better  position  in  the 
State.  Catherine  II.  granted  them  a  charter  in  1785,  by  which  the  nobles 
of  each  province  were  formed  into  a  corporation,  wuth  the  power  of  electing 
judges  and  various  rural  officers.  They  moreover  acquired  the  right  ol" 
meeting  triennially  for  the  discussion  of  their  wants  and  interests.  A 
property  qualification  and  official  rank  were  required  of  the  members  of 
these  assemblies,  who  were  exempted  from  corporal  punishment,  com- 
jmlsory  service,  and  ]:)ersonal  taxation.  They  had  already  acquired  in 
1754  the  exclusive  right  of  holding  serfs.  The  Emperor  Paul  annulled  this 
charter,  but  it  was  restored  by  Alexander  I. 

The  vicissitudes  of  the  clergy  have  been  as  follows.  In  ancient  Russia 
they  enjoyai  many  special  privileges  and  the  right  of  administering  justice 
on  all  Church  lands.  John  IV.  prohibited  the  attachment  of  land  to 
churches,  and  sought  to  make  the  Metropolitan  dependent  on  his  will.  The 
patriarchate  was  established  under  his  son,  but  abolished  by  Peter, 
who,  warned  by  the  example  of  Nicon,  substituted  the  Holy  Synod.  The 
present  metropolitans  have  ecclesiastical  jurisdiction  only  within  their 
several  bishoprics  or  provinces,  and  are  subject  to  the  Synod.  Peter  tlie 
Great  considerably  limited  the  power  of  the  clergy.  He  converted  the 
monasteries  into  hospitals,  and  filled  them  with  soldiers.    ]\Ionks  were  not 


18 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


Sect.  I. 


allowed  the  use  of  ink  in  order  that  tliey  might  not  publish  libels,  and  the 
clergy  generally  were  made  amenable  to  the  civil  law.  Peter  the  Great 
also'' established  a  scale  of  fees,  to  which,  in  the  rei^n  of  Nicholas  were 
added  reizular  salaries,  the  village  priest  receiving  70  rubles  per  annum 
(lOZ.),  and  his  clerk  30  rubles  (4?.  10s.),  in  addition  to  a  glebe  of  33  dessi- 
atinas  (about  85  acres).  The  churches  in  towns  likewise  possess  houses  and 
other  real  property,  which  pay  no  taxes,  but  their  j^riests  receive  no  salaries 
from  the  State.  Catherine  11.  took  away  the  serfs  and  lands  held  by  the 
monasteries.  They  had  acquired  no  fewer  than'  900,000  male  serfs ;  the 
Troitsa  monastery  alone  possessing  100,000.  In  return,  she  freed  the  monks 
from  the  liability  of  quartering  troops,  from  corporal  punishment,  and  from 
compulsory  service.  Some  of  the  monasteries  were  jilaced  in  direct  de- 
pendence on  the  Holy  Synod,  and  others  were  left  under  the  control  of  the 
several  bishops,  who  were,  however,  disqualified  from  dejiriving  a  priest  of 
his  holy  office  without  the  decision  of  the  Synod. 

The  inhabitants  of  towns  were  much  improved  in  their  condition  under 
Catherine  II.  They  were  not  anciently  distinct  from  the  agricultural  popu- 
lation, and  the  town  lands  were  held  by  private  individuals.  The  Tsar 
Alexis  however  declared  that  those  lands  belonged  to  the  Crown.  Peter  the 
Great  gave  tliem  special  courts  of  law,  and  generally  promoted  the  welfare 
of  the  mercantile  classes;  the  Empress  Catherine  gave  them  a  charter  in 
1785,  on  the  model  of  the  nobility  charter,  with  the  right  of  electing 
mayors  and  magistrates.  The  merchants  were  divided  into  guilds,  and 
obtained  an  exclusive  privilege  of  trade.  Nothing  was,  however,  done 
during  her  reign  to  remove  the  evils  of  serfdom  ;  on  the  contrary,  alanned 
at  the"'  readiness  with  which  the  peasantry  joined  a  formidable  insurrection 
under  Pugatchef,  the  empress  placed  them  still  more  under  the  control  of 
the  landed  proprietors,  who  were  then  invested  with  judicial  and  executive 
powers. 

Catherine,  possessed  of  great  beauty  in  her  youth,  preserved  the  traces  of 
it  to  the  end  of  her  life;    in   matters  of  religion  she' was  tolerant  from 
political   motives,  extravagant   in   an   extraordinary  degree,  and,  with  a 
woman's  liberality,  paid  well  those  who  served  her;  and,  though  there  are 
many  acts  in  her  reign  which  cannot  be  defended,  she  did  more  for  the 
civilization  of  Paissia  than  any  of  her  ])redecessors.     She  was  succeeded  by 
her  son  Paul,  whose  short  reign,  to  1801,  was  not  of  any  great  historical 
importance.     At  his  coronation  he  decreed  a  law  of  hereditary  succession 
to  the  crown  in  the  male  line,  and  afterwards  in  the  female,  instead  of 
leaving  it  to  the  caprice  of  the  reigning  Tsar.     The  emperor  declared  war 
against  the  French  in  1799,  sent  an  army  into  Italy  to  oppose  the  repu- 
blican generals,  and  through  the  intervention  of  England,  Suwaroff,  who 
had  been  banished  from  the  capital  by  Paul,  was  recalled,  and  placed  at  the 
head  of  it.    But  the   campaign   in   Italy,  successful   at  first,  ended  un- 
favourably to  the  Ptussian  arms — when  the  emperor  suddenly  became  a 
great  admirer  of  Bonaparte  ;  and,  with  the  same  inconsistency  that  exiled 
Suwaroft",  he   liberated  Kosciusko;    subsequently  the  eccentricity  of  his 
actions  led  to  the  conclusion  that  he  was  of  unsound  mind.     Amongst  his 
ukazes  was  one  against  the  use  of  shoe-strings  and  round  hats ;  and  in  the 


Kussia, 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


19 


number  of  his  eccentricities  was  a  rage  for  painting,  with  the  most  glaring 
colours,  the  watch-boxes,  bridges,  and  gates  throughout  the  empire.  The 
career  of  Paul  was  closed  in  March,  1801,  in  a  similar  manner  to  that  of 
Peter  III.,  at  the  castle  of  St.  Petersburg,  where  he  then  resided. 

Alexander,  his  eldest  son,  succeeded  to  the  throne,  being  then  24 
years  of  age.  In  the  same  year  he  recalled  the  Siberian  exiles,  sup- 
])ressed  the  secret  inquisition,  re-established  the  power  of  the  senate, 
founded  in  1804  the  University  of  Kharkoff,  and  emancipated  the 
Jews.  In  1805  the  emperor  joined  the  Northern  Powers  against  France, 
and  on  the  2nd  December  the  Austro-Russian  army  was  defeated  at 
Austerlitz.  In  180G,  Mr.  Fox  having  failed  in  negotiating  a  peace  between 
France  and  liussia.  Napoleon  overran  Prussia,  and,  Benningsen  having 
evacuated  Warsaw,  IMurat  entered  that  city  on  the  28th  November.  On 
the  26th  December  the  French  were  beaten  at  Pultowsk,  and  in  February, 
1807,  the  severely  contested  battle  of  p]ylau  was  fought,  each  side  having 
three  times  lost  and  won,  the  deciding  move  being  made  by  Benningsen'^ 
who  took  Konigsberg  by  assault.  On  the  28th  of  May  Dantzig  capitulated 
to  the  French,  and  on  the  14th  of  June  they  won  the  battle  of  Friedland; 
ten  days  after,  Napoleon  and  Alexander  met  on  a  raft  moored  in  the 
middle  of  the  Niemcn,  and  concluded  an  armistice,  which  was  a  prelude  to 
the  treaty  of  'Pilsit,  concluded  on  the  27th  July  of  the  same  year.  Alex- 
ander by  this  act  became  the  ally  of  France,  which  enabled  the  French  to 
carry  on  their  aggressive  ix)licy  in  Spain.  But  the  injury  inflicted  on 
Piussian  commerce  by  Napoleon's  continental  system  against  England,  and 
his  interference  with  Alexander's  conquests  in  Finland  in  1809,  roused  that 
sovereign  to  a  sense  of  his  true  interests.  He  broke  with  France,  and  the 
invasion  of  Kussia  by  the  French  was  the  consequence.  To  prepare  for 
and  carry  on  his  defence  against  this,  the  emperor  made  peace  with  the 
Porte,  and  re-established  his  alliance  with  Great  Britain.  The  operations 
which  took  jilace  during  this  memorable  struggle  are  so  well  known  that 
they  will  only  be  briefly  adverted  to  here. 

On  the  23rd  of  June,  1812,  the  French  crossed  the  Niemen  and  pushed 
on  to  Wilna,  the  liussians  carefully  retreating,  and  leaving  Napoleon  to 
pass  that  river  on  the  28th,  and  enter  the  town  unopposed.  Here  the 
French  emperor  remained  18  daj's,  and  then,  after  considerable  ma- 
noeuvring, marched  on  Vitepsk,  where  Jie  fully  expected  to  bring  the  Kus- 
sians,  under  Barclay  de  Tolly,  to  action.  The  liussian  general,  however, 
declined ;  and  Napoleon,  instead  of  following  the  adviceof  his  marshals, 
and  wintering  on  theDwina,  crossed  the  Dnieper  and  marched  on  Smolensk. 
On  the  IGth  of  August  he  was  once  more  in  front  of  the  Bussian  grand  army 
near  that  town  ;  but  the  wary  and  intelligent  De  Tolly  had  occupied  it 
only  to  cover  the  flight  of  its  inhabitants,  and  carry  off  or  destroy  its 
magazines;  and  on  the  following  morning  Napoleon,  to  his  great  mortifica- 
tion, learnt  tliat  the  enemy,  in  pursuance  of  his  Fabian  tactics,  was  again 
off.  Smolensk  was  now  taken  by  assault,  the  last  inhabitants  that  remained 
having  set  fire  to  it  before  they  left.  Up  to  this  time  the  Russian  Com- 
mander-in-Chief had  been  able  to  adhere  to  his  plan  of  drawing  the 


20 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


Sect.  I. 


French  into  the  country  without  riskinoj  a  .general  engagement  until  a 
favourable  opportunity  should  occur— tactics  which  were  not  liked  by  his 
army  ;  and  Alexander,  yielding  to  the  clamour,  a]->pointcd  Kutusoflf  to  the 
command.     The  battle  of  Borodino,  sometimes  called  that  of  the  Moskva, 
fought  on  the  1st  of  September,  was  the  result  of  this  change  of  leaders. 
The  combatants  amounted  on  either  side  to  about  120,000,  and  the  killed 
and  wounded  in  both  to  about  80,000.     On  the  12th  Bonaparte  again 
moved  forward,  his  troops  by  this  time  nearly  famished,  and  heartily  tired 
of  the  war,  for  the  dav  of  Borodino  had  given  them  a  clear  idea  that  the 
enemy  would  yield  only  after  a  desiderate  struggle.     On  Sunday  the  13th 
the  Russian  army  marclicd  out  of  the  old  capital,  with  silent  drums  and 
colours  furled,  bv  the  Kolomna  Gate,  and  left  the  city  to  its  fate.     In  the 
afternoon  of  IVIonday  the  advanced  guard  of  the  French  army  caught  the 
first  view  of  her  golden  minarets  and  starry  domes,  and  the  Kremlin  burst 
upon  their  sight.     "  All  this  is  yours,"  cried  Napoleon,  when  he  first  gazed 
ujiou  the  goal  of  his  ambition,  and  a  shout  of  "  Moscow!  Moscow !"  was 
taken  up  by  the  foremost  ranks,  and  carried  to  the  rear  of  his  army.     In 
Moscow  they  bivouacked  the  same  evening.     Ere  the  night  had  closed  in, 
their  leader  arrived  at    the   Smolensko   Gate,   and   then   learnt,   to  his 
astonishment,  that  300,000  inhabitants  had  fled,  and  that  the  only  Russians 
who  remained  in  the  city  were  the  convicts  who  had  been  liberated  from 
the  gaols,  a  few  of  the  rabble,  and  those  who  were  unable  to  leave  it.     On 
Tuesday,  the  15th  September,  the  mortified  victor  entered  Moscow,  and 
took  up  his  residence  in  the  Kremlin  ;  but  here  his  stay  was  destined  to 
be  short  indeed,  for  on  the  morning  of  the  16th  it  was  discovered  that  a 
fire,  which  had  at  first  given  but  little  cause  for  alarm,  could  not  be  re- 
strained—limned bv  the  wind,  it  spread  rapidly,  and  consumed  the  best 
portion  of  the  city.     "  The  churches,"  says  Labaume,  "  though  covered 
with  iron  and  lead,  were  destroyed,  and  with  them  those  graceful  steeples 
which  we  had  seen  the  niglit  before  resplendent  in  the  setting  sun ;  the 
hospitals,  too,  which  contained  more  than  20,000  wounded,  soon  began  to 
burn — a  harrowing   and   dreadful   spectacle— and  almost   all   these   poor 
wretches  perished!"   A  few  who  still  survived  were  seen  crawling,  half- 
burnt,  amongst  the  smoking  ruins,  while  others  were  groaning  under  heaps 
of  dead  bodies,  endeavouriiig  in  vain  to  extricate  themselves.     The  con- 
fusion and  tumult  which  ensued  when  the  work  of  pillage  commenced 
cannot  be  conceived.     Soldiers,  sutlers,  galley-slaves,  and  prostitutes,  were 
seen  running  through  the  streets,  penetrating  into  the  deserted  palaces,  and 
carrying  away  everything  that  could  gratify  their  avarice.     Some  clothed 
themselves  in  rich  stuffs,^  silks,  and  costly  furs;  others  dressed  themselves 
in  women's  pelisses ;  and  even  the  galley-slaves  concealed  their  rags  under 
the  most   splendid  court  dresses ;    the  rest  crowded  to  the  cellars,  and, 
forcing  open  the  doors,  drank  the  wine  and  carried  off  an  immense  booty. 
This  horrible  pillage  was  not  confined  to  the  deserted  houses  alone,  but 
extended  to  the  few  which  were  inhabited,  and  soon  the  eagerness  and 
wantonness  of  the  plunderers  caused  devastations  which  almost  equalled 
those  occasioned  by  the   conflagration.      "  Palaces  and   temples,"  writes 
Karamzin,  "  monuments  of  art  and  miracles  of  luxury,  the  remains  of  past 
ii^cs  and  those  which  had  been  the  creation  of  yesterday,  the  tombs  of 


Russia, 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


21 


ancestors  and  the  nursery  cradles  of  the  present  generation,  were  indiscri- 
minately destroyed ;  nothing  was  left  of  Moscow  save  the  remembrance  of 
the  city,  and  the  deexj  resolution  to  avenge  its  fate." 

On  the  20th  Napoleon  returned  to  the  Kremlin  from  the  Palace  of 
Petrofski,  to  which  he  had  retired,  and  soon  tried  to  negotiate  with  Kutusofi*, 
who  re[»lied  that  no  treaty  could  be  entered  into  so  long  as  a  foreigner  re- 
mained within  the  frontier.  The  Emperor  then  requested  that  he  would 
forward  a  letter  to  Alexander.  "I  will  do  that,"  said  the  Ihissian  general, 
*'  provided  the  word  jteace  is  not  in  the  letter."  To  a  third  pro]iosition, 
Kutusoff  re})lied  that  it  was  not  the  time  to  treat  or  enter  into  an  armistice, 
as  the  Russians  were  just  about  to  open  the  campaign.  At  length,  on  the 
19th  of  October,  after  a  stay  of  34  days,  Napoleon  left  Moscow  with  his 
army,  consisting  of  120,000  men  and  550  pieces  of  cannon,  a  vast  amount 
of  plunder,  and  a  countless  host  of  camp  followers.  And  now  the  picture 
of  the  advance  was  to  be  reversed.  Murat  was  defeated  at  Malo-Yaro- 
slavets  on  the  24th,  and  an  unsuccessful  stand  was  made  at  Viasma  on  the 
3rd  of  November.  On  the  6th  a  winter  jjeculiarly  early  and  severe,  even 
for  Russia,  set  in — the  thermometer  sank  18° — the  wind  blew  furiously — 
and  the  soldiers,  vainly  struggling  with  the  eddying  snow,  which  drove 
against  them  with  the  violence  of  a  whirlwind,  could  no  longer  distinguish 
their  road,  and,  falling  into  the  ditches  by  the  side,  there  found  a  grave. 
Others  crawled  on,  badly  clothed,  with  nothing  to  eat  or  drink,  frost-bitten, 
and  groaning  with  pain.  Discipline  disappeared — the  soldier  no  longer 
obeyed  his  officer  ;  disbanded,  the  troops  spread  themselves  right  and  left 
in  search  of  food,  and  as  the  horses  fell,  fought  for  their  mangled  carcases, 
and  devoured  them  raw ;  many  remained  by  the  dying  embers  of  the 
bivouac  fires,  and,  as  these  expired,  an  insensibility  crept  over  them  which 
soon  became  the  sleep  of  death.  On  the  9th  of  November  Napoleon 
reached  Smolensk,  and  remained  till  the  15th,  when  he  set  out  forKrasnoe'. 
From  this  time  to  the  2()th  and  27th,  when  the  French  crossed  the  Beresina, 
all  was  utter  and  hopeless  confusion  ;  and  in  the  passage  of  that  river  the 
wretched  remnant  of  their  once-powerful  army  was  nearly  annihilated — 
the  exact  extent  of  their  loss  was  never  known,  but  a  Russian  account 
states  that  36,000  bodies  were  found  in  the  river  alone,  and  burnt  after  the 
thaw.  On  the  5th  of  December  Napoleon  deserted  the  survivors.  On  the 
10th  he  reached  Warsaw,  and  on  the  night  of  the  18tli  his  capital  and  the 
Tuileries.  The  army  that  had  so  well  and  enthusiastically  served  him  was 
disposed  of  as  follows : — 

Slain  in  fight 125,000 

Died  from  fatigue,  Imnger,  and  the  seventy  of  the  climate     132,000 
Prisoners 193,000 


450,000 


The  remains  of  the  grand  army  wliich  escaped  the  general  wreck  (inde- 
pendently of  the  two  auxiliary  armies  of  Austria  and  Prussia,  which  knew 
little  of  the  horrors  of  the  retreat)  was  about  40,000  men,  of  whom  it  is 
said  scarcely  10,000  were  Frenchmen.     Thus  ended  the  greatest  military 


22 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


Sect.  I. 


catastrophe  that  ever  befell  an  army  in  either  ancient  or  motlern  times. 
To  return  to  Napoleon.  Europe  was  now  exasperated,  and  combined 
ucijainst  him  ;  and  thou2;h  in  the  foUowinLi;  sprin^i;"  he  ,<j!;ained  the  battles  of 
Lutzen  and  Bautzen,  nnd  on  the  27th  of  August  that  of  Dresden,  fortune 
deserted  him  on  the  18th  of  October  of  the  same  year  on  the  field  of 
Leipsic.  On  the  lUiine  the  Allies  offered  him  peace  and  the  empire  of 
France,  which  he  refused,  and  on  the  31st  of  March,  1814,  Alexander  had 
the  satisfaction  of  marchin;;  into  Paris  at  the  liead  of  his  troops.  After 
the  general  peace  in  1815  the  Emperor  devoted  himself  to  the  internal  im- 
provement of  his  country,  makini;  many  judicious  alterations  in  the 
•government,  in  which  he  evinced  much  liberality  of  fcelini;.  He  had  pjood 
abilities,  but  not  brilliant  talent,  and  his  greatness  of  mind  was  not  fully 
developed  till  the  invasion  of  his  country  by  the  French  ;  this  aroused  all 
his  energies,  and  exhibited  him  to  the  world  conducting  himself  with  con- 
summate discretion  and  unflinching  steadiness  of  purpose  in  that  alarming 
crisis.  His  disposition  was  kind  and  generous,  his  manners  mild  and 
amiable,  and  liis  moderation  prevented  him  from  ever  abusing  his  un- 
limited power.  Under  the  influence  of  his  mother  and  the  empress,  the 
levity  and  extravagance  of  the  court  were  materially  repressed.  Attended 
to  the  last  by  his  wife,  he  died  of  eiysipelas,  in  a  small  and  humble  dwell- 
ing near  Taganrog,  when  on  a  tour  of  inspection  through  the  southern 
])rovinccs  of  his  empire.  When  the  news  of  his  death  spread  over  his 
vast  dominions,  he  was  universally  deplored,  and  the  murmur  of  regret 
in  other  countries  responded  to  the  grief  of  Russia. 

The  subsequent  history  of  IJussia  is  within  the  memory  of  the  present 
generation,  and  we  need,  therefore,  only  give  a  summary  of  the  princiiial 
events  in  chronological  order. 

Alexander  I.  was  succeeded  by  the  Emperor  Nicholas  on  the  25tli 
December,  1825;  Oonstantine,  his  elder  brother,  having  married  a  Polish 
lady  and  resigned  the  crown.  The  natural  order  of  succession  having  been 
broken  and  Nicholas  proclaimed,  St.  Petersburg  became  the  scene  of  a  military 
revolution,  which  was  sup])ressed  by  the  Emperor  in  person.  The  troops 
had  been  excited  to  revolt  by  the  members  of  a  wide-spread  conspiracy 
for  introducing  a  constitutional  form  of  government.  When  the  leaders 
cheered  their  men  on  with  tlie  cry  of  Constitutsia !  the  soldiery  believed 
they  were  lighting  for  Constantine's  wife.  1'his  outbreak  made  a  deej)  im- 
pression on  the  mind  of  the  Emperor,  and  had  great  influence  on  the  system 
of  government  by  which  his  reign  is  best  known.  Nicholas  declared  war 
against  Persia,  which  terminated  in  1828  by  the  payment  of  a  large  in- 
demnity on  the  part  of  the  tShah.  A  war  with  Turkey  followed,  and  was 
closed  by  the  Treaty  of  Adrianople,  1829,  by  which  lUissia  acquired  a  con- 
siderable augmentation  in  territory  on  the  coast  of  the  Black  Sea  and  other 
advantages,  in  addition  to  a  certain  amount  of  influence  in  the  Danubian 
principalities.  An  insurrection  broke  out  in  Poland  in  1830,  and  was  sup- 
pressed, after  a  hard  struggle,  in  1831  (vide  Poland).  The  territory  ceded 
by  the  Treaty  of  Adrianople  having  included  the  Caucasus,  the  Emperor 
Nicholas  had  recourse  to  aims  in  order  to  bring  the  independent  races  of 
that  mountainous  region  to  submission.     By  a  treaty  signed  at  Constanti- 


Russi 


la. 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


23 


noplc  on  the  8th  July,  1833,  between  Eussia  and  Turkey,  the  Porte 
engaged,  in  return  for  the  military  aid  of  Russia  against  the  Pasha  of 
Egypt,  to  close  the  Dardanelles  against  all  foreign  vessels  of  war.  The 
peace  between  the  Sultan  and  the  Pasha  having  again  been  disturbed  in 
1839,  the  Ottoman  empire  was  placed,  on  the  27th  July,  1839,  under  the 
common  safeguard  of  the  five  great  P^uropean  Powers,  instead  of  exclusively 
under  the  protection  of  Russia.  This  was  followed  by  a  convention, 
signed  at  London  on  the  15th  July,  1840,  *'  for  maintaining  the  integrity 
and  independence  of  the  Ottoman  empire,  as  a  security  for  the  peace  of 
Euroi^e."  In  1844  the  Emperor  Nicholas  visited  England.  In  1849  Russia 
assisted  Austria  in  repressing  the  Hungarian  insurrection.  A  dispute 
between  the  Greek  and  Latin  Churches  relative  to  the  guardianship  of  the 
Holy  Places  produced  demands  on  the  part  of  Jkissia  which  the  Porte  refused 
to  admit.  Thereupon  the  Russian  troops,  amounting  to  80,000,  entered  the 
Moldo-Wallachian  provinces  in  July,  1853.  The  combined  fleets  of  Eng- 
land and  France  entered  the  Dardanelles  on  the  14th  October,  at  the  request 
of  the  Sultan,  and  on  the  1st  November  l^ussia  declared  war  against  Turkey. 
The  Turks  then  crossed  the  Danube,  and  conducted  a  campaign  against  the 
Russians  with  much  braverv  and  success.  On  the  30th  November  the 
Turkish  fleet  was  destroyed  while  at  anchor  in  the  harbour  of  Sinope,  not- 
withstanding the  declaration  on  the  part  of  Russia  that  she  intended  only 
to  act  on  the  defensive,  and  to  repel  the  advance  of  the  Turks  into  the 
Principalities.  The  combined  fleet  was  immediately  ordered  into  the  Black 
Sea,  and  hopes  of  a  peaceful  termination  of  the  difiiculty  v;ere  abandoned. 
The  Russian  ambassador  quitted  London  on  the  4th  February,  1854. 
France  and  England  declared  war  against  Russia  respectively  on  the  27th 
and  28th  March.  Odessa  was  bombarded  on  the  22nd  April,  after  an 
English  flag  of  truce  had  been  fired  upon.  The  *  Tiger'  steam-frigate 
stranded  near  Odessa,  and  was  captured  after  an  attack  by  the  artillery  on 
land  ;  the  flag  of  one  of  her  boats  fell  into  the  possession  of  the  Russians. 
The  allied  squadron  anchored  oft'  Eupatoria  on  the  13th  Sej^tember,  .and 
next  day  landed  their  troops  at  about  12  miles  below  that  town.  The 
battle  of  the  Alma  was  fought  on  the  20tli  September. 

The  following  account  of  the  battle  of  the  Alma  is  condensed  from 
Lieut.-Col.  Hamley's  *  Story  of  the  Campaign  of  Sebastopol :' — 


The  allied  amiy,  having  landed,  on 
the  14th  Sept.,  at  a  place  about  12  m. 
below  the  town  of  Eupatoria,  com- 
menced its  march  on  the  19th  at  7  in 
the  morning.  In  all,  the  British  mus- 
tered 26,000  men  and  54  gims;  the 
French  24,000  men  and  about  70  guns  ; 
and  the  Turks  4500  men,  with  neither 
cavalry  nor  guns.  At  night  the  Allies 
bivouacked  on  the  Bulganak.  The 
next  morning,  between  9  and  10  o'clock, 
the  army  marched  onward  for  about 
2  hours  under  a  bright  sun.  The  front 
of  the  Allies  was  oblique,  the  Turks  on 
the  right  being  about  2  m.  in  advance 


\  of  the  British  left.    Surmounting  the 
I  grassy  ridges  which  formed  their  hori- 
I  zon,  the  scene  of  the  coming  struggle 
I  disclosed  itself  to  them.     The  plain, 
level  for  about  a  mile,  sloped  gently 
down  to  a  village,  beyond  which  was 
a  valley    sprinkled  with  trees,    and 
watered  by  the  river  Alma.     On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  stream  the  bank 
rises  abruptly  into  steep  knolls,  termi- 
nating in  plateaux,  behind  which  rises 
another  and  higher  range  of  heights. 
Both  these  ranges  were  occupied  by 
masses  of  Russian  troops,  numbering 
altogether,  according  toGen.Todieben, 


24 


1. — HisiorkaJ  Notice. 


Sect.  1. 


33,600  men  of  all  arms  and  96  pru^is.  j 
Such  was  the  position  in  front  of  the  | 
British.     In  front  of  the  French,  -who  | 
formed  the  centre  of  the  line,  the  first 
range  of  knolls  grew  more  and  more 
abrupt.     These  were  defended  by  in- 
fantry, and  field-artiJlery  were  ixisted, 
with  more  infantry,  on  the  plains  at 
the  top  of  the  heights. 

The  French  advanced  steadily  and 
incessantly,  and  attacked  a  small  tele- 
graph station  on  the  plain  at  the  top 
of  the  heights,  and  succeeded  in  plant- 
ing their  flag  upon  it.  During  the 
attack  on  it,  the  right  of  the  British 
had  gradually  come  under  the  fire  of 
the  lieavy  artillery  on  the  knolls. 
Pennefathcr's  brigade  of  the  2nd  divi- 
sion, advancing  in  line  along  the  slope 
of  the  plain,  lay  down  near  the  walls 
of  the  village  for  shelter  from  the  de- 
structive fire  of  the  enemy,  and  then 
moved  onward  to  the  river  ;  while  the 
light  division,  passing  into  the  valley, 
on  the  left  of  the  second,  pressed  on 
initil  they  passed  the  river,  nearly  up 
to  their  necks,  and  then  began  to 
ascend  the  slopes  beyond,  which  were 
held  by  the  Kussian  battalions. 

The  battery  now  in  front  of  them, 
covered  with  a  thick  low  hank  of  earth, 
swept  the  whole  front  of  the  British, 
and  its  fire  was  crossed  by  that  of  the 
guns  from  the  knolls,  which  searched 
the  village  and  ploughed  up  the  plain 
beyond  it.  A  wide  road,  bounded  by 
low  stone  walls,  leading  to  a  bridge 
and  a  ford,  intervened  between  the 
1st  and  2nd  divisions  ;  and  the  latter 
point,  being  nearly  intermediate  be- 
tween the  principal  lines  of  fire,  was 
probably  the  hottest  of  the  cannonade. 
Many  of  the  55th  fell  there,  before 
advancing  into  the  villages.  To  oppose 
the  liussian  fire,  some  guns  were  at 
last  brought  into  action  on  the  opposite 
bank,  and  their  fire  took  the  Kussian 
centre  and  guns  in  reverse,  while  the 
French,  pressing  up  the  heights,  had 
driven  back  the  left.  The  Russian 
artillery  now  began  to  retire,  soon  after 
followed  by  covering  masses  of  in- 
fantry. It  was  at  this  moment  that  a 
brigade  of  the  light  division,  consist- 
ing of  the  7th,  23rd,  and  33rd  regts., 


very  gallantly  led  by  Gen.  (Dodringtou, 
advancing  up  the  slope,  under  a  terrible 
fire  of  musketry,  took  a  gun  from  the 
epaulement  or  low  wall  of  earth  al- 
ready mentioned  ;  but,  with  a  loss  of 
600  killed  and  wounded,  the  brigade 
was  forced  to  retire  down  the  slope 
and  re-form  under  cover  of  the  attack 
of  the  first  division,  which  had  been 
led  across  the  river  by  the  Duke  of 
Cambridge  to  support  them.  The  7tli 
Fusileers,  going  up  to  the  breast- 
work with  a  cheer,  retook  and  kept 
possession  of  the  Kussian  gun ;  the 
33rd  and  95th  came  to  the  support  of 
the  7th;  the  19th  and  47th  also  ad- 
vanced ;  and  after  a  terrible  slaughter 
the  Russians  were  driven  back.  Sir 
George  Brown  rode  gallantly  in  front 
of  his  light  division  and  fell  in  front 
of  the  battery.  The  55th  and  30tli 
regts.,  coming  up  on  the  right  of  the 
95th,  drove  back  the  enemy  on  their 
own  front,  and  the  3  British  brigades 
formed  line  on  the  groimd  they  had 
won. 

The  battle  had  thus  rolled  back  to 
the  right  rear  of  the  Russians.  On 
the  extreme  right  of  their  original 
po.sition,  at  the  top  of  the  heights,  was 
a  ])attery  behind  an  epaulement,  with  a 
Hank  for  7  guns,  thrown  back  to  pre- 
vent the  right  being  turned.  The 
brigade  of  Highlanders,  under  Sir 
Colin  Campbell,  being  on  the  left  of 
the  British  line,  formed  themselves, 
when  the  1st  division  crossed  the  river, 
directly  in  front  of  this  battery,  which, 
before  it  followed  the  other  guns  in 
their  retreat,  poured  upon  them  during 
their  gallant  advance  a  heavy  but 
ill-directed  fire,  doing  them  l)ut  little 
damage.  At  the  lop  of  the  hill  they 
met  some  battalions  of  the  enemy  still 
showing  a  front,  and  compelled  them 
to  retreat  with  the  loss  of  a  good  many 
men  ;  and  two  troops  of  horse-artillery, 
which  had  crossed  the  river  higher  up, 
coming  into  action,  played  upon  the 
retreating  masses  with  great  eflfect. 
Thus  ended,  after  a  contest  of  3  hours, 
the  battle  of  the  Alma. 

The  retreat  was  effected  in  good 
order,  with  the  loss  of  2  guns  and 
Prince  Menschikoft''s  carriage  with  his 


Russia. 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


25 


papers.  The  loss  of  the  Allies  was 
about  3000  in  killed  and  wounded. 
Gen.  Todleben  attributes  the  loss  of 
the  battle  mainly  to  the  superior  dis- 
cipline and  arms  of  the  Allies. 

Prince  Menschikoff,  having  made 
good  his  retreat  to  Sevastopol,  caused 
its  fortifications  to  l>e  strengthened  by 
Todlel^en,  and  ordered  Admiral  Kor- 
niloflf  to  sink  his  squadron  in  the  road- 
stead. On  the  23vd  the  Allies  reached 
the  Katcha  and  encamped  there,  with- 
out finding  the  enemy  as  they  had 
expected.  On  the  24th  they  bivouacked 
near  Belbek.  Meanwhile  Prince  Men- 
schikoff had  quitted  Sevastopol  in  the 
night,  to  proceed  with  his  army  to 


Bakhchisarai  by  the  Mackenzie  read, 
leaving  only  16,569  fighting  men  in 
garrison,  and  losing  some  carriages 
with  baggage  and  ammunition  on  the 
plain.  Gen.  Todleben  is  of  opinion 
that  neither  the  exaltation  of  the 
Russian  troops,  nor  their  resolution  to 
fight  to  the  last,  would  have  been  able 
to  save  Sevastopol  if  the  Allies  had 
attacked  it  immediately  after  the  pas- 
sage of  the  Tchernaya.  However  that 
may  be,  the  Allies  moved  on  the  26th 
September  towards  the  east,  in  the 
direction  of  Mackenzie's  farm,  and  suc- 
cessfully accomplished  the  manoeuvre 
of  transferring  the  army  from  the  N. 
to  the  S.  side  of  Sevastopol. 


On  the  26th  Balaclava  harbour  was  occupied.  Sevastopol  was  attacked 
by  sea  and  by  land  on  the  17th  October.  The  Light  Cavalry  charge  of 
Balaclava  was  made  on  the  25th  October  ;  out  of  607  men  only  198  re- 
turned. While  the  siege  was  progressing  large  reinforcements  were  pour- 
ing into  the  Russian  camp.  The  Russians  attacked  the  English  positions 
in  front  of  Inkermann  on  the  5th  November,  but  were  compelled  to 
retreat. 

'    The  following  account  of  the  battle  of  Inkermann  is  likewise  condensed 
from  Lieut.-Col.  Hamley's  '  Story  of  the  Campaign  of  Sebastopol ;' — 


During  the  night  of  the  4-5tli  of 
November  the  Russians  had  assembled 
in  force  in  the  valley  of  the  Tchernaya 
between  Inkermann  and  the  harbour. 
The  object  of  their  enterprise,  accord- 
ing to  General  Tcxileben,  was  to  drive 
back  the  right  wing  of  the  besiegers 
and  take  firm  possession  of  the  ground 
occupied  by  them  between  the  town 
and  the  shore.  A  force  of  18,929 
men  and  38  guns  was  to  start  at  six 
in  the  nwming  for  *  Careening  Bay,' 
and  to  be  joined  by  another  body  of 
15,806  men  and  96  guns  passing  over 
the  bridge  of  Inkermann.  On  their 
junction  they  were  to  be  under  the 
command  of  General  Dannenbcrg; 
while  Prince  Gortschakoflf,  with  22,444 
men  and  88  guns,  was  to  support  the 
attack  and  endeavour  to  eflect  a  di- 
version. This  plan  was  not  entirely 
carried  out,  for  the  body  of  18,929 
men  proceeded  to  a  different  side  of 
the  ravine  from  that  originally  con- 
templated, and  thus  prevented  the 
meditated  junction. 

i2u8«a- 1868. 


At  dawn  they  made  their  rush  upon 
the  advanced  posts  of  the  second  di- 
vision posted  on  the  crest  looking  down 
into  the  valley,  and  which  fell  back 
fighting  upon  the  camp  behind  the 
crest,  1200  yards  in  rear.  The  out- 
posts being  driven  in,  the  hill  was 
occupied  by  the  enemy's  artillery  and 
guns  of  position,  which  commenced  a 
heavy  fire  dow^n  the  face  of  the  gentle 
declivity,  crashing  through  the  tents 
left  standing  below.  Captain  Allix, 
of  General  Evans's  staff,  was  dashed 
from  his  saddle,  not  far  from  his  own 
tent,  by  a  round  shot,  and  fell  dead. 
The  plan  of  the  Russians  was,  after 
sweeping  the  r'dge  clear  by  their 
heavy  concentrated  fire,  to  launch 
some  of  their  columns  over  it,  while 
others,  diverging  to  their  left  after 
crossing  the  marsh,  were  to  have 
passed  round  the  edge  of  the  cliffs 
opposite  Inkermann,  and  turned  the 
British  right.  The  artillery  tire  had 
not  continued  long  before  the  rush 
of   infantry  was  made.      Crowds  of 

G 


26 


1 . — Historical  Not  ice. 


Sect.  I. 


skirinishei's  ndvancing  tliroii;;li  the ' 
Coppice  came  on  in  spite  of  the  case- 
sliot,  and  passed  within  the  British 
line,  forcing  the  artillery  to  limber  up 
and  retire  down  the  slope.  Two  com- 
panies of  the  55th,  lying  down  behind 
u  small  bank  of  earth,  retreated  as  the 
Russians  leapt  over  it,  firing  as  they 
went  back,  and  halted  on  a  French 
i*egiment  that  was  marcliing  up  the 
hill.  The  Russians  retreated  in  their 
turn,  and  the  French,  with  General 
Pennefathcr  riding  in  front,  went  gal- 
lantly down  the  slope  under  the  tremen- 
dous fire,  driving  the  enemy  before 
them.  Almost  sinniltaneously  with 
this  attack  on  the  centre,  a  body  of 
Russians  had  passed  round  the  edge  of 
the  cliff,  and  met  the  Guards  there, 
wlio  had  thrown  themselves  into  a  two- 
gun  battery  on  the  edge  of  the  slope 
opposite  the  ruins  of  the  old  castle, 
^*th  the  Grenadiers  extending  to  the 
right,  the  Fusiliers  to  the  left,  of  the 
battery,  and  the  Coldstrcams  across 
the  slope  towards  the  British  centre. 
The  Russians  cam^  on  in  groat  num- 
bers with  extraordinary  determination. 
The  Guards,  having  exhausted  their 
ammunition,  attacked  the  Russians 
witli  the  bayonet,  and,  after  losing 
nearly  half  their  number,  were  com- 
pelled to  retire,  but,  being  reinforced, 
returned  and  drove  the  enemy  out  of 
the  battery. 

Four  of  the  gunsof  Townsend's  bat- 
tery of  the  fourth  division,  which 
came  up  at  the  left  of  the  jiosition, 
were  taken  by  the  Russians  almost  as 
soon  as  unlimbered,  but  some  of  the 
88th  and  49th  retook  them  before  they 
had  been  many  seconds  in  the  enemy's 
hands.  In  all  these  attacks  on  the 
Jiritish  right,  the  Russians  were  pre- 
vented from  turning  that  fiank  by 
Codrington's  brigade  of  the  light  di- 
vision postetl  on  the  further  bank  of 
the  ravine.  "When  the  Russian  infan- 
try was  driven  back,  a  cannonade  re- 
comrnenced  along  their  whole  line,  to 
which  the  British  guns  replied  warm- 
ly, tliough  overmatched  in  metal  and 
numbers.  The  ships  in  the  harbour, 
and  the  battery  at  the  Round  Tower, 
also  threw  shot  and  shell  on  the  slope. 

This  cannonade  was  the  preface  to 


anolher  infantry  attack,  which  now 
again  threatened  the  British  right,  at 
that  moment  absolutely  without  de- 
fence. By  advancing  resolutely  the 
enemy  would  have  turned  it,  but  the 
men  wlio  had  retreated  from  the  low 
entrenchment  already  spoken  of  ral- 
lied and  lay  down  under  it.  Then 
reinforcements  arrived  for  the  support 
of  the  remnant  of  the  defenders  of  the 
2-gun  battery.  These  fresh  troops  at 
once  charged  the  enemy,  routed  them, 
and  pursued  them  to  the  very  verge  of 
the  heights,  when,  returning  victori- 
ous, they  found  the  battery,  as  they 
repassed  it,  again  occupied  by  Rus- 
sians, a  fresh  force  of  w^hom  had 
mounted  the  cliff  from  the  valley.  It 
was  while  collecting  his  men  to  meet 
this  new  and  unexpected  foe  that  Sir 
George  Cathcart  was  shot  dead. 

At  this  juncture  the  remainder  of 
Bosquet's  division  came  upon  the  right, 
and,  passing  at  once  over  the  crest, 
threw  themselves  into  the  combat, 
and,  fighting  side  by  side  with  the 
British  troops,  pressed  the  Russians 
back,  A  tremendous  cannonade  was 
now  again  opened  by  the  Russians,  and 
replied  to  by  English  and  French  bat- 
teries of  artillery  and  two  IS-pounders 
ordered  up  by  Lord  Raglan.  Between 
these  two  opposing  fires  of  artillery,  a 
fierce  desultory  combat  of  skirmishers 
went  on  in  the  coppice.  Regiments  and 
divisions,  French  and  English,  were 
here  mixed,  and  fought  hand  to  hand 
with  the  common  enemy.  About  noon 
the  fire  of  the  Russians  slackened,  and 
further  French  reinforcements  took  up 
a  position  on  the  hill.  The  battle  was 
now  prolonged  only  by  the  efforts  of 
the  Russian  artillery  to  cover  the  rct 
treat  of  their  foiled  and  broken  bat- 
talions. At  three  o'clock  the  French 
and  English  generals,  with  their  staffs, 
passed  along  the  crest  of  the  disputed 
hill,  and  half  an  hour  after  the  whole 
force  of  the  enemy  retired  across  the 
Tchernaya. 

Until  the  arrival  of  the  fourth 
division  and  the  French,  the  ground 
was  held  by  about  5000  British  troops, 
presenting  a  thin  and  scattered  line, 
while  the  body  of  Russians  immedi- 
ately opposed  to  them  was,  according 


liussi 


la. 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


27 


to  General  Todleben,  15,000  strong. 
In  all,  8000  English  and  6000  French 
were  engaged.  The  total  Russian  force, 
estimated  by  Lord  Raglan  at  60,000, 
is  put  down  by  General  Todleben  at 
34,835,  of  whom  6  generals,  256  offi- 
cers, and  10,467  rank  and  file  were 
put  hors  de  combat — more  than  double 
the  loss  of  the  Allies.  The  loss  of  the 
battle  is  attributed  by  General  Todle- 
ben to  the  want  of  simultaneity  in  the 


!  advance  of  the  Russians  (owing  to 
]  conflicting  arrangements  in  starting 
I  from  Sevastopol),  the  superiority  of 
I  the  French  and  English  small-arms, 
{ and  the  omission  of  the  Russian  ar- 
tillery to  follow  and  support  their 
infantry. 

Large  trenches   were    dug  on   the 
ground  for   the  dead ;    the  Russians 
lay  apart-,   the  French  and   English 
'  were  ranged  side  by  side. 


A  hurricane  destroyed  a  great  amount  of  shipping  in  the  Black  Sea 
on   tlie   14tli  November,  causing  the  Allies  to   suffer  considerably   from 
the  want    of  supplies.      General    Todleben    now  assumed  with   much 
success   tlie    direction   of   the  defences  of   Sevastopol,   and  soon    gained 
great  renown ;    the  Allies  in  the  mean  while  were'  repulsed  in  a  naval 
attack  on  Petropavlofski,  in   the   Pacific.      In   1855  Sardinia  joined  the 
Allies  with  a  contingent  of  15,000  men.      On  the   17th  February  the 
Russians    made    a    formidable  attack    on   Eujiatoria,    defended   by  the 
Turks    under   Omer    Paslia    and   by  a   French   detachment,  but    were 
obliged  to  retire  with  great  loss ;  the  intelligence  of  the  repulse  reached 
the  Emj^ror  Nicholas  but  a  few  days  before  his  death,  which  took  place 
very  unexiiectedly  on  the  2nd  March.     A  conference  was  soon  after  opened 
at  Vienna  with  the  object  of  concluding  2)eace,  but  after  sitting  six  weeks 
it  was  dissolved  without  any  satisfactory  result.     The  war,  however,  was 
being  actively  prosecuted.    ^The  second  bombardment  of  Sevastopol  was 
opened  at  daybreak  of  the  9tli  April,  1855,  and  produced  no  decisive  result. 
The  third  bombardment  commenced  on  the  6th  June,  and  was  followed 
next  day  by  successful  attacks  on  the  Mamelon  and  Quarries.     General 
Liprandi  having  attempted  to  raise  the  siege,  the  battle  of  the  Tchernaya 
was  fought  on  the  16th  August,  and  resulted  in  the  complete  success  of 
the  French  and  Sardinian  troops  engaged  in  it.     On  the  5th  September  an 
"  infernal  fire  "  was  opened  by  the  Allies  and  kept  up  until  the  8th,  when 
the  French  stormed  the  Malakoff  and  the  English  the  Iiedan,  which  was, 
however,  abandoned  after  an  unequal  contest  of  nearly  two  hours.     The 
French  loss  on  that  day  amounted  to  1489  killed,  4259  wounded,  and  1400 
missing;  and  the  English  to  385  killed,  1886  wounded,  and  176  missing; 
the  Russians,  according  to  their  own  account,  losing  2684  killed,  7243 
wounded,  and  1763  missing.     The  south  side  of  Sevastopol  being  no  longer 
tenable,  the  town  was  evacuated  during  the  night;  the  magazines  were 
exploded,  the  fortifications  blown  up,  and  the  ships  in  the  harbour  sunk. 
The  Allies  took  jwsscssion  of  the  ruins  next  day.     The  operations  of  the 
Anglo-French  squadron  in  the  Baltic  consisted,  in  1854,  of  a  reconnaissance 
otr  Cronstadt  by  Sir  Charles  Napier,  and  a  boat  action  at  Gamle  Karbely,  in 
the  Gulf  of  Finland,  when  the  paddlebox-boat  of  the  *  Vulture'  drifted  on 
shore  and  became  a  prize.     The  flag  of  this  boat  is  shown  at  St.  Petersburg, 
l)eing,  together  with  that  of  the  *  Tiger's '  boat,  the  only  English  colours 
preserved  in  Russia  as  military  trophies.     The  forts  of  Bomarsund,  on  the 
Aland  Islands,  were  captured  on  the  15th  July,  1854,  by  a  French  force  of 
10,000  men  and  a  small  contingent  of  English  marines  and  seamen.     In 
1855  the  Baltic  fleet  bombarded  Sveaborg  and  cruised  off  Cronstadt,  under 

c  2 


28 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


Sect.  I. 


the  command  of  Admiral  Dundas  and  Admiral  Penaud.  The  war  in  Asia 
terminated  with  the  surrender  of  Kars  to  General  Mouravieff.  By  the 
intervention  of  Austria,  preliminaries  of  peace  were  agreed  upon  at  a 
meeting  of  plenii>otentiaries  at  Paris  on  the  26th  February,  1850,  and  peace 
was  signed  on  the  30th  March  and  ratified  on  the  27th  April  following. 
By  that  treaty  the  territorial  integrity  and  the  independence  of  the  Ottoman 
empire  were  recognised  and  guaranteed.  Bussia  and  Turkey  mutually 
agreed  not  to  keep  in  the  Black  Sea  more  than  six  steam-vessels,  of  800 
tons  at  the  maximum,  and  four  light  steam  or  sailing  vessels,  not  exceeding 
200  tons.  The  navigation  of  the  Danube  was  opened  to  the  vessels  of  all 
nations,  and  the  Bussian  frontier  in  Bessarabia  was  rectified.  No  exclusive 
protection  over  the  principalities  of  Moldavia  and  Wallachia  was  in  future 
to  be  admitted  ;  and  in  case  of  the  internal  tranquillity  of  the  principalities 
being  menaced,  no  armed  intervention  can  take  place  without  the  general 
sanction  of  the  contracting  Bowers. 

The  Emperor  Alexander  II.  was  crowned  at  Moscow  on  the  7th  September, 
1856.  His  accession  was  marked  by  the  introduction  of  vast  reforms  in 
the  administration.  Corruption  was  prosecuted  and  punished.  The  army 
was  reduced  to  the  lowest  limits  compatible  with  the  dignity  and  safety  of 
the  country,  and  the  term  of  military  service  was  shortened.  Bailways  were 
projected  and  commenced,  and  commercial  and  industrial  enterprise  of  every 
kind  was  liberally  promoted  in  view  of  restoring  the  prosperity  of  the  empire, 
much  impaired  by  the  war.  Overtrading,  however,  induced  by  an  artificial 
encouragement,  added  its  disastrous  effects  to  financial  embarrassment,  and 
assisted  in  depreciating  the  currency  of  the  country,  no  longer  metallic. 
Kew  loans  were  made,  and  a  system  of  financial  publicity  was  adopted.  But 
the  most  glorious  monument  of  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Alexander  II. 
will  ever  be  the  eniancipation  of  the  serfs.  Their  manumission  had  been 
frequently  contemplated.  The  delegates  in  Catherine  II. 's  parliament  had 
suggested  it ;  Alexander  I.  had  counsellors  who  ardently  desired  to  see 
its  abolition,  and  even  the  Emperor  JSicholas  had  contemplated  a  more 
mitigated  form  of  personal  bondage.  In  1838  a  section  of  the  nobility 
petitioned  for  its  entire  abolition.  In  1852  the  Minister  of  the  Interior 
actually  drew  up  a  plan  of  gradual  emancipation,  which  was  to  have  been 
carried  into  execution  in  the  spring  of  1854.  In  1859,  the  nobility  of  the 
province  of  Lithuania  having  ofiered  to  free  their  serfs,  the  Emperor 
Alexander  II.  convoked  a  commission  at  St.  Petersburg,  which  was  charged 
with  the  preparation  of  an  act  of  general  emancipation.  This  was  pro- 
claimed on  the  3rd  March,  1861,  when  all  the  serfs  (about  23  millions) 
acquired  personal  liberty  and  civil  rights.  A  period  of  two  years  was 
allowed  for  the  appropriation  of  land  to  the  peasants,  who  have  acquired 
the  " perpetual  usufruct"  of  the  houses  and  plots  of  ground  which  they 
occupied  at  the  time  of  emancipation  ;  the  allotments  of  land  being,  how- 
ever, circumscribed  by  a  scale  which  varied  according  to  the  locality  and 
quality  of  the  soil.  The  compulsory  appropriation  to  each  i)easant  varied 
from  a  minimum  of  1  dessiatiua  (2^  acres)  to  a  maximum  of  12  dcs^iiatinas 
in  the  steppe  districts.  In  the  central  parts  of  Bussia  the  extent  of  the 
allotments  was,  on  an  average,  about  4  dessiatinas  (10  acres)  to  each  pea- 
sant. Beyond  this,  the  enfranchised  serf  is  permitted  to  acquire  additional 
lands  on  terras  of  nmtual  agreement  with  the  landed  proprietors.     Those 


Russia. 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


29 


terms  were  regulated  by  a  body  of  officials,  called  "  Arbitrators  of  the 
Peace."  who  drew  up  and  registered  the  deeds  of  sale  or  lease.  The 
Government  in  such  cases  advanced  the  purchase-money  to  the  peasant 
by  the  issue  of  redemption-bonds,  bearing  5  per  cent,  interest,  and  is 
refunded  by  a  series  of  payments  extending  over  a  certain  number  of  years. 
The  comnmnes  being  responsible,  as  corporations,  to  the  State  for  such 
repayments,  their  members  are  circumscribed  in  their  liberty  of  locomo- 
tion until  they  have  paid  their  share  of  the  heavy  liability  incurred.  It 
is  calculated  that  the  Government  will  have  advanced  300  millions  of 
rubles  in  these  transactions,  by  which  each  peasant  is  enabled  to  become 
an  independent  and  considerable  landed  proprietor.  The  larger  estates  of 
the  nobles  are  in  the  mean  while  to  a  great  extent  deprived  of  agricultural 
labour,  and  are  being  very  generally  thrown  out  of  cultivation  or  partially 
farmed  out  to  the  peasantry.  In  the  ancient  provinces  of  Poland,  since 
the  insurrection  which  broke  out  in  Poland  and  Lithuania  in  1863,  the 
])roprietors  are  forced  by  ukaz  to  cede  such  portions  of  additional  lands  ns 
the  i)easants  may  desire  to  purchase  ;  but  the  measure  has  not  been  applied 
to  Bussia  Proper.  The  emancipation  was  carried  out  peaceably,  with 
only  a  few  partial  agrarian  outbreaks,  produced  chiefly  by  erroneous 
interpretations  ot  the  law. 

Among  the  many  other  im])ortant  reforms  wliich  followed  the  Act  of 
Emancipation  we  may  signalise  the  introduction  of  new  courts  of  law  on 
the  basis  of  oi)en  trial  by  jury,  which  came  into  operation  at  ISIoscow  and 
St.  Petersburg  during  the  course  of  1865,  and  in  other  parts  of  the  empire 
later.  Corjx)ral  punishment  was  abolished  in  1863,  and  the  penalty  of  death 
is  now  only  inflicted  on  the  sentences  of  courts-martial  in  cases  of  incen- 
diarism and  other  crimes  requiring  special  measures  of  repression.  The 
knut  has  entirely  disa])peared  as  an  instrument  of  punishment.  The  dis- 
abilities of  the  Jews  have  been  removed ;  the  commerce  of  the  country, 
although  still  retarded  in  its  development  by  one  of  the  worst  Customs 
Tarifls  in  Europe,  has  been  relieved  of  many  op])ressive  regulations,  and 
thrown  open  to  natives  and  foreigners  alike  ;  municipal  charters  have  been 
conferred  on  St.  Petersljurgand  Moscow  ;  the  liberty  of  speech  and  thought 
denied  under  the  i>revious  reign  may  now  be  fully  exercised,  except  in  the 
form  of  public  meetings  for  political  purposes;  and  the  censorslii]iof  the  ])ress 
has  been  reduced  to  a  mitigated  form.  Public  instruction  is  being  vigor- 
ously ]nirsued,  and  education  brought  within  the  reach  of  the  humblest. 
The  Universities  and  superior  schools  have  been  remodelled  and  deprived  of 
their  once  semi-military  character.  A  classical  system  of  education  is  being 
promoted,  and  the  clergy  are  being  raised  socially  and  intellectually.  These, 
and  many  other  wise  reforms  of  the  Em[)eror  Alexander  II.,  too  numerous 
and  complex  here  to  be  specified,  form,  as  it  were,  the  basis  of  those  Bej^re- 
sentative  Institutions  with  which  the  edifice  of  government  will  sooner  cr 
later  be  crowned. 

Among  the  events  in  Bussian  history  that  have  occurred  since  1865  may 
be  mentioned  the  attempt  on  the  life  of  the  Emperor  by  KarakozoflP  on  the 
4.16th  April,  1866 ;  the  marriage  of  the  Tsesarevitch  Alexander  with  the 
Princess  Dagmar,  sister  of  the  Princess  of  Wales,  and  the  visit  to  Bussia  of 
H.B.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales,  on  the  occasion  of  the  marriage,  in  November, 
1866  ;  and  the  second  dastardly  attack  on  the  Emperor  at  Paris,  by  Bere- 


30 


2. — Statistics. 


Sect.  I. 


zowski,  in  June,  1867.  His  Imperial  Majesty  was  invested  with  the  Order 
of  the  Garter  by  Earl  Vane  on  the  16-28th  July,  1867.  in  1866  a  squadron 
was  sent  out  by  the  Government  of  the  U.  S.  of  America,  with  Mr.  Fox  as 
envoy,  to  convey  to  H.  I.  M.  the  cono^ratulations  of  the  people  of  the  United 
States  on  his  escape  from  assassination.  This  complimentary  mission  was 
preceded  by  tlie  visit  of  Mr.  Atkinson,  Mayor  of  Hull,  who  delivered  to 
H.  I.  ;M.  an  address  on  the  same  occasion,  from  the  Town  Council  and 
Chamber  of  Commerce  of  KiDgston-upon-HuU. 


2. — Statistics. 

The  Area  and  Population  of  the  Russian  Empire  are  shown  in  the  fol- 
lowing Table  taken  from  the  Report  of  the  Central  Statistical  Committeo 
for  1858. 


Sq.  Geog. 
Miles. 

Population'. 

Male. 

Female. 

Total. 

Russia  in  Europe     . . 

Caucasus 

Russia  in  Asia 

Kingdom  of  Poland  . . 
Grand  Duchy  of  Finland . . 

90,134 

8,034 

202,746 

2,258 

6.870 

29,307,422 

2,247,172 

2,103,099 

2,298.113 

818,274 

29.903,330 

2.001,348 

2,007,839 

2,406.333 

818,275 

59,330,752 
4,308,520 
4,230,938 
4,704,446 
1,030,549 

Total     ..      .. 

370,042 
or 

7,770,882 
Eng.  sq.  in. 

36,894,080 

37,377,125 

74,271,205 

It  will  be  seen  that  the  population  of  Russia  is  very  unequally  distri- 
buted, being  at  the  rate  of  706  inhab.  to  the  sq.  m.  in  European  Russia, 
524  inhab.  in  the  Lieutenancy  of  the  Caucasus,  16  in  Asiatic  Russia  • 
while  Poland  has  2110  inhab.  to  the  sq.  m.,  and  Finland  238.  ' 

In  Russia  Proper  (about  59  millions)  the  population  professing  the  Russo- 
Greek  religion  numbers  about  51  millions ;  the  Dissenters  are  estimated 
at  about  802,000.  The  Roman  Catholics  form  a  total  of  3  millions,  the 
Protestants  2  millions,  the  Jews  If  million,  the  Mahomedans  2  millions 
and  Idolaters  about  200,000.  The  class  of  nobles,  including  Government 
functionaries,  is  estimated  at  nearly  900,000;  the  clergy  at  611,000;  the 
inhab.  of  towns  at  4,700,000;  the  military  (including  families)  at  4  mil- 
lions;  and  the  peasantry  at  49i  millions.  The  foreigners  residing  in  Rus- 
sia, irrespective  of  those  who  have  taken  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  the 
Emperor,  number  86,611. 


Eussia. 


2. — Statistics. 


31 


The  Budget  for  18G7  anticipated  the  following  revenue  and  expendi- 
ture : — 

1,  Revenue  : 

Direct  taxes      .52 J  million  roubles. 

Indirect  taxes 174| 

Duties  and  stamps 12f 

Royalties  (post  and  telegraph ,  &c.)       17^ 

State  domains 03 

Miscellaneous  receipts 4O4- 

Revenue  of  the  Transcaucasus     . .         3f 
Portion  of  Budget  of  Poland        ..       16^ 


Total  ordinary  revenue       ..     387    millions  (53^7.  mill,  at  33iZ.). 
Extraordinary  revenue  (loans)      . .       40f 
Special  receipts        16 


Grand  totol  of  revenue 


443|  millions  (617.  mill.). 


This  Revenue  was  to  have  been  expended  as  follows  in  18G7 : — 

Public  debt,  repayment  of,  and  interest  73f  million  roubles. 

Superior  State  Departments 1^  ,,  „ 

Cliurch,  pay  of  Clergy,  &c 6^  ,,  „ 

Imperial  Household  (Civil  List)    ....  9  „  „ 

Foreign  Affairs         2^  ,,  „ 

Army 120^  ,,  „ 

Navy 10^  ,,  „ 

Finance  Department— Cost  of  collecting 

taxes;  pensions,  &c 05 J  ,,  „ 

State  domains 7  ,,  „ 

Home  Office      15f  „  ,, 

Public  Instruction 7i  „  „ 

Public  Works 22^  „  „ 

Posts  and  telegraphs       14  J  ,,  „ 

Justice       ^i  9>  ?> 

Audit  Office      l|  ,,  ?» 

Imperial  studs OJ  ,,  ,, 

Poland       20  „  „ 

Transcaucasus 4f  ,,  „ 

Total  ordinary  expenditure  . .  :{98  J  million  roubles  (5437.  mill). 
Extraordinary  expenditure — 

Construction  of  railways         25^  „  „ 

Special  expenditure        16  ,,  „ 

Anticipated  deficit  in  receipts       ....  4  „  „ 

Grand  total  of  expenditure  . .  443.f  million  roubles, 


From  an  account  of  the  actual  appropriation  of  the  votes  taken  on  the 
Budgets,  published  in  1866,  for  the  period  between  1832  and  1861,  it  is 
apparent  that  the  yearly  deficits  between  the  revenue  and  the  expendi-. 


32  3. — Language.  Sect.  I. 

ture  of  tlie  Ihissian  Empire  arc  very  considerable.     The  following  are  the 
deficits  oiricially  shown  since  1853  : — 

1853      51    million  rouhlcs. 

}8?!      123i       „ 

IS--^^      201^       „ 

1850      205^       „ 

1857      38J 

1858  5 

1859  55  " 

18(J0  511  " 

18G1  il  " 

But  the  financial  expedients  to  which  the  Russian  Government  have  had 
recourse  between  1862  and  18GG,  in  order  to  cover  the  difterence  between 
the  ordinary  revenue  and  the  ^ross  expenditure,  show  that  the  actual 
deficits  for  the  last  five  years  have  not  been  much  under  100  million 
roubles  per  annum  (about  14  millions  sterlinjx). 

liussia  is  divided  in  matters  of  education  into  six  districts,  with  gym- 
nasia and  schools,  frequented  by  1,155,773  scholars.  In  18(50  the  number 
of  scliolars  in  village,  parochial,  and  national  schools  amounted  to  928,000. 


3. — Language. 

The  "Russian  lanpjuage  belongs  to  the  south-east  group  of  Slavic  languages, 
to  which  belong  also  tlic  Bulgarian  language  (with  its  obsolete   dialect,' 
the  ancient  or  ecclesiastical  Slavonian,  now  the  liturgic  language  of  all  tlie 
Slavonian-speaking  followers  of  the  Eastern  Churcir)  and'^the"  Serbian  or 
Illyric,  with  its  numerous  dialects  spoken  throughout  a  great  part  of  1  urkey, 
and  to  a  considerable  extent  in  the  empire  of  Austria  ;  while  the  north-west 
group  of  the  same  family  comprehends  the  Polish,  Bohemian,  and  Lusatian 
languages,   with    their   dialects.      'J'he  Bussian    language    presents   three 
dialects— the  Little  Bussian,  which  is  s])oken  in  the^sou'th-west  provinces 
of  Bussia  (Volhynia,  Kief,  Chernigov,  Poltava,  Kharkof,  ])art  ofVoronej 
Ekaterinoslaf,  Kherson,  the  Taurida,  Podolia,  and  part  of  Bessarabia) ;  the 
White  Piussian  dialect,  spoken  in  the  provinces  of  Mohilef  and  Minsk,  in 
the  greater  part  of  those  of  Vitepsk,  Grodno,  and  Bialostok,  and  in  a  small 
part  of  the  province  of  Vilna  ;  finally,  the  Great  Bussian  or  Bussian  proj^er, 
which  is  the  official  and  literary  language,  as  also  that  of  a  large  majority 
of  the  ])opulation.    The  total  of  the  Slavonian-speaking  population  amounts 
to  55,000,000,  of  which  more  than  35,000,000  use  the  Great  Bussian  dialect. 
The  difterence  between  these  three  dialects,  however,  is  not  so  great  as  to 
prevent  the  people  sjjeaking  the  Little  Bussian  or  the  White  Bussian  from 
im<lerstanding  the  Great  Bussian,  so  that  it  may  be  said  that  the  Bussian 
language  is  spoken  from  one  end  of  Bussia  ])roper  to  the  other.     Even  the 
Pole  and  the  Bussian  can  understand  each  other  to  a  certain  extent. 

The  Bussian  language  is  extremely  copious  and  flexible ;  its  grammatical 
construction  is  somewhat  complex,  and  offers  many  difficulties  to  a  foreigner, 
owing  to  the  great  variety  of  inflections  peculiar  to  some  ixirts  of  speech,' 
and  to  the  absence  of  such  other  elements  of  speech  as  are  in  other  Euro^ 
pean   languages   considered   quite   essential  in  order  to   attain  precision. 


Russia. 


3. — Language, 


33 


Thus  nouns,  pronouns,  and  adjectives,  are  declinable  in  seven  cases  ; 
adjectives  have  a  full  and  contracted  termination ;  the  diminutive,  aug- 
mentative, and  de])rccative  terminations  are  next  in  expression,  strength, 
and  grace  only  to  the  Italian  ;  but  there  is  no  article, — a  deficiency  which 
causes  great  perplexity  to  a  foreigner.  Again,  the  Bussian  verbs  are  to  a 
foreigner  most  difficult  of  comprehension,  for  they  are  quite  diflerent  in 
•system  from  anything  that  exists  in  the  Western  languages : — namely,  the 
verb,  while  denoting  in  its  inflections  the  numbers,  persons,  and  in  some 
cases  even  the  genders,  has  only  three  tenses,  and  the  deficiency  of  the 
other  tenses  is  partly  made  good  by  so-called  modes,  which  determine 
the  frequent  or  unfrequent,  precise  or  unprecise  mode  of  an  action,  partly 
redeemed  by  an  almost  unlimited  freedom  of  invei-sion,  which,  however, 
can  alford  but  little  help  to  one  not  ]:>erfectly  conversant  with  the  language. 

The  Bussians  have  an  alphabet  different  from  that  used  in  the  rest  of 
Euro|>e.  The  invention  of  this  alphabet  (which  is  called  KirilUtsa)  is  attri- 
buted to  St.  Cyril  and  Methodius,  who  lived  in  the  9th  cewty.,  and  are  con- 
sidered as  the  principal  apostles  of  the  Christian  faith  among  the  Slavonian 
tribes,  and  who  translated  the  Holy  Scriptures,  or  at  least  some  parts  of 
them,  into  their  native  language  ;  for  which  purpose  they  are  said  to  have 
composed  an  alphabet,  or  rather  to  have  adapted  the  Greek  alphabet,  with 
the  addition  of  a  certain  number  of  new  characters  for  such  sounds  as  were 
peculiar  to  the  Slavonian  language,  and  for  such  as  they  found  no  signs  in 
the  Greek  alphabet.  These  characters  are  now  only  used  in  printing 
devotional  books.  The  characters  in  general  use  were  introduced  by  Peter 
the  Great ;  they  are  the  same  Cyrillian  alphabet,  with  the  omission  of  a 
few  unnecessary  letters,  and  somewhat  remodelled  so  as  to  resemble  more 
closely  the  forms  of  the  Latin  characters. 

The  sounds  of  the  thirty-six  letters  of  which  the  Bussian  alphabet  is 
composed  arc  given  below  in  English  characters.  Throughout  this  work 
Bussian  sounds,  absent  in  the  English  language,  have  been  rendered  by  a 
simple  combination  of  I'higlish  letters,  to  be  pronounced  as  in  the  Italian 
language  :  a  as  in  /«r,  e  as  «,  i  as  ee,  u  as  oo. 


A 

a 

a,  has  the  sound  of  a  in 

far. 

U 

6 

be 

5> 

b 

bav. 

It 

B 

ve' 

»» 

V 

vale. 

r 

r 

ge 

>» 

<>• 

pay. 

A 

A 

de 

»> 

d 

day. 

K 

e 

e 

»» 

e 

met. 

Hi 

:i: 

.F 

5» 

z 

azure. 

3 

3 

ze 

>» 

z 

zeal. 

n 

n 

1 

»» 

e 

me. 

ii 

ii 

1 

n 

y 

coy. 

I 

i 

1 

?> 

a 

me. 

K 

K 

ka 

?> 

k 

keen. 

.1 

j 

1 

?> 

1 

lay. 

li 

M 

ni 

»» 

in 

may. 

W 

II 

n 

}> 

n 

nay. 

0 

0 

0 

j» 

() 

open. 

11 

u 

P 

>» 

P 

pay. 

p 

p 

r 

»» 

r 

ray. 

c 

c 

s 

»» 

s 

say. 

T 

T,rn 

t 

»» 

t 

tay. 

c  3 


34 


3, — Language, 


Sect.  I* 


Russia, 


8. — Language, 


35 


y 

X 

U 

H 


y 

* 

X 

U 

H 


lU  m 

m  m 

}>I  u 

b  b 


II 

f 

kha 

tse 

che 

sha 

stcha 

yer  has  no  sound- 


» 


>» 


»» 


» 


» 


00       book. 
f         fat. 
h  aspirated, 
ts  in  its. 
ch       chain, 
sh       shade, 
sch     discharge, 
-a  semi-vowel. 


3 


9 


K)       K) 

a    11 
0 

Y 


0 

V 


yery  has  something  like  the  sound  of  o  in  hie,  die. 
yer  has  no  sound — a  semi-vowel  used  to  soften 
consonants. 

J^    >  have  the  sound  of  a  in  any, 

u  unit, 
yam. 
feet, 
mo  (seldom  used). 


ya 

i 


» 

99 

n 


r 


Tlie  following:  are  a  few  words 


and  phrases  whicli  the  traveller  may  find 
Ufieful,  if  pronounced  according  to  the  sounds  given  above.* 


The  Emperor 
The  Empress 
The  Crown  Piince 
A  Grand  Duke 
A  piince 
A  count 
A  noble 
Sir  or  Mr. 

The  head  of  a  village 
An  employe 
A  peasant 
Ditto 
The  police 
A  blacksmith 
A  drosky  or  sledge- 
driver 
A  coachman 
A  postihou 
A  waiter 
A  porter 
A  water-carrier 
A  foreijrner 
Chief  city 
A  town 
A  street 
A  cross-street 
A  square 
A  market 
A  row  of  shops 
A  shop 
A  quay 
A  giteway 
Outer  door 


} 


Tsar, 
Tsaritsa. 
Tsesareiitch. 
Veliki  Kniaz. 
Kniaz. 
Graf. 

Dvorijanin. 
Gospodin. 
Starosta. 
Chinovnih. 
Krestianin, 
Mujili, 
Folitsia. 
Kusnets. 

IsvostcJuJ:. 

Kutscher. 
Yainschih. 
Cheloveh. 
Dcorni/,'. 
Vodovos. 
Inostranets. 
Stolitsa. 
Gorod. 
Ulitsa. 
Pereuloh. 
Ploschad. 
Ilinok. 
lUad. 
Lufha. 
Naberejnaya, 
Vorota. 
Podyezd, 


An  ishmd 
A  garden 
A  Held 
A  cathedral 
A  church 
A  belfry 
A  cemetery 
Altar-screea 
A  monastery 
A  palace 
An  hotel 

A  restaurant 

A  room  at  an  inn 

A  dress injj  loom 

A  ladies'  rooui 

A  house 

A  courtyard 

A  villa 

A  room 

A  chemist's 

The  parade-ground 

A  barrack 

A  foit 

A  bridge 

A  river 

A  village 

A  road 

A  hill 

The  bath-house 

A  post    or    railway 

station 
The  Great  Bazaar 


{ 


} 


Ostrof. 

Sad. 

Pole. 

Subor. 

Tserhof. 

Koloholnia. 

Kladbishche, 

Ikonostas, 

Monastir. 

Dcorets. 

Gostinnitsa. 

'■'' Pestoran"     or 

Trahiir. 
Nomer. 
llbornaya, 
Dainshaya. 
Dom. 
Dior. 
Dacha, 
Komnata. 
Apteka. 
PlatZ'parad. 
Kazarina. 
Krepost  or  "  Fort.'* 
Mod. 
Peka. 
Derevnia. 
Doroga. 
Gora. 
Bania. 

Stantsia. 

Gostinnoi-Dcor. 


•  The  best  Russian  vocabulary  ts  Cornet's.    Relff's  '  Manual  of  the  Russian  Language;  and 
Heard  s  '  Kussuui  Grammar/  may  likewise  be  consulted.    The  best  dictionaiy  is  Keilfs. 


The  Exchange 

Birja. 

Wine 

The  Embassy 

Posolstvo. 

Coin  brandy 

English  Ambassador 

Anglishi  Posol. 

Beer 

English  Consul 

Angliski  Consul. 

Coftee 

American  ^Minister 

(  Amcricansky    Pos- 
\      lannik. 

Tea 

Sugar 

American  Consul 

I  Anicricanshy    Con- 
1      sul. 

Water 

A  glass  of  water 

To  write 

Pissat. 

Hot  water 

Paj)er 

Bumdga. 

Cold  water 

Ink 

Chernila. 

Salt 

Pen 

Pero. 

Pepper 

Pencil 

Karandash. 

Vinegar 

To  eat 

Knsshat. 

Mustard 

To  drink 

Pit. 

A  trunk 

To  breakfast 

Zavtrakat. 

Portmanteau 

Breakfast 

Zavtrah. 

Travelling-bag 

To  dine 

Obedat. 

Box  or  case 

Dinner 

Obed. 

A  tea-urn 

To  sup 

Ujinat. 

A  tea-pot 

Supper 

Ujin. 

A  pail 

A  portion 

Portsia. 

A  bottle 

Soup 

Sap. 

A  glass 

An  ice 

Morojennoye. 

A  cup 

Cabbage  soup 

Stchi. 

A  wine-crlass 

Pie 

Piroy. 

A  plate 

A  roast 

Jarkoe. 

A  knife 

Beef 

Goviadina. 

A  ibrk 

Veal 

Teliatina. 

A  spoon 

Mutton 

Baranina. 

A  tiible 

Cutlets 

"  Cotelettes." 

Abed 

Beefsteak 

*'  Bifstek." 

Sheets 

Fish 

Py^ya. 

Pillow  case 

Ham 

Vet  china. 

An  utensil 

A  fowl 

Kiiritsa. 

A  stove 

A  chicken 

Tseplenok, 

Fire 

A  hare 

Zniets. 

A  candle 

A  partridge 

Karapaika, 

^Matches 

Hazel -grouse    (2e- 
trao  bonasia) 

'\  Riahcldh. 

A  napkin 
A  duster 

Pdack  cock 

Teterha. 

A  hat 

Capercailzie 

Glnkhar. 

A  fur  cloak 

Potatoes 

Kartoffel. 

An  overcoat 

Peas 

Gorohh. 

A  coat 

Cucumbers 

Oyurtsi. 

Trousers 

Pears 

Grushi. 

A  pair  of  boots 

Apples 

Yabloki. 

A  bath 

Nuts 

Orekhi. 

A  basin 

White  bread 

Bely-khlcb. 

A  towel 

Black  bread 

Chorni'khleh. 

Soap 

Pancakes 

Blinni. 

A  dressing-gown 

Cheese 

Syr. 

Wasiierwoman 

Butter 

Maslo. 

A  boat 

Eggs 

Yditsi. 

A  carriage 

Cream 

Slifki. 

A  cart 

Milk 

Moloko. 

A  wheel 

Vina. 

Vodi:J. 
Pico.  , 
Koffe.  ^ 
Chai. 
Sahnr. 
Vodii. 

Stakan  vodl. 
Goridchci  vodi. 
Holodnoi  vodi, 
Sol. 
Perets, 
Uksus. 
Gorchitsa. 
Sunduk. 
Cheniodan. 
Meshok. 
Yaschik. 
Samovar, 
Chainik. 
Vcdro. 
Butilka. 
Stakan. 
Chashka. 
Piumha. 
Tarelka, 
Nojik. 
Vilka. 
Loshka, 
Stol. 
Postel. 
Prostiny. 
Kavolotchha, 
Gorshok. 
Pctchka. 
Ogon. 
Svetchka. 
Spitchki. 
Salfetka. 
Triapka, 
Shliapa, 
Shuba. 
Paletot, 
Surtnk. 
Pantalony, 
Sapogi. 
Vaaiia. 
Umicalnik, 
Polotenzo. 
Mylo. 
Khalat. 
Pratchka, 
Lod'ta. 
Kareta. 
Telega. 
Kolesso. 


36 

The  pole 

The  wooden  aicli' 
over  the  horse's 
head  in  a  diojky 
or  sledge, 

A  cord 

An  axe 

A  ship 

A  steamer 


Dishlo, 


Diifja. 


3. — Language. 

Ice 

Half 

A  quarter 

Great 

Little 


A  railway  i 

Fast  or  express  train  ^ 

A  liorse 

Horses 

Hay 

Straw 

A  book 

A  snow-storm 


Ven'ov/:a. 

Topor. 

Korab. 

Puroliod. 

Jelesmuja,  Dorogn^ 

or  Mashlmi. 
Pospcshni/fOvPotch- 

tovy   (Post)   iV 

yczd. 
Zoshad. 
Loshadi. 
Seno. 
Soloina. 
Kniija, 
ViiKja,  or  Meicl. 


Beautiful 

Old 

New 

Father 

Mother 

Brother 

Sister 

Wife 

Husband 

Ocitcli,  or  ecitch 

J'avlovitch. 
Ovruty  or  evna, 

Feodorovna, 


(fern. 


Sect.  I. 

Liod. 
Polovina. 
Chdvert. 
j!(>/shoi\ 
Midoi. 
j  J'l'ekrassnoi 

Staroi  (fem.  -oi/a), 
A'oroi  (fem.  -aija). 
Otets. 
Mat. 
Bnd. 
Sestra, 
Jena. 
Miij. 
,  son  of — as  Pavel  (Paul), 


daurrhter  of— as  Feodor. 

»5  ' 


Dialogues. 


I  am  an  Englishman 
I  am  an  American. 
I  do  not  speak  Iluss. 

Where  does  the  ^nierican  ^''^"^'^'^  reside  ? 

W^here  is  the  English  Church? 

Good  day. 

Good  ni^ht. 

Good  bye. 

Yes 

No 

Good,  very  well 

Not  good,  not  well 

Biiiig 

For 

lilore 

Less 

That 

Enough 

Not  enono;h 

Too  Ions: 

Give 

Give  me 

Give  us 

Now 

It  cannot  be  done 

Do  better 

If  you  please. 

Thank  you. 

Who  is  there  ? 

Here,  hree,  sir. 


I'^a  Anijiichanin. ' 

Va  Aniericanets. 

Nc  govoria  po  nissl-i. 

r,  ■, .    ....    Anglisku  ^ 

Ode   lie  tot    ,  ,'  Consul? 

''  Amencansky 

Gd^  Aiujlishvja  Tscrkofi 

Sdravstvuitc. ' 

Fob  ray  a  7iotch. 

Proatchaite. 

Fa. 

Net. 

J/orosho. 

Ne  horosho. 

Prinesi. 

Flin. 

Fstcho. 

JMeushe. 

Ftto. 

Focolno. 

Ne  dovohio. 

Otchen  Folgo. 

Fat. 

Fai  nine. 

Faite  nam. 

Tipper. 

Nelzia. 

Zdelai  hdche. 

Pojahista. 

BliUjodariu — Spassibo. 

Khto  tarn  i 

Sdess. 


w: 


Where  are  m 


A  cl 


Kussia. 

Come  here. 
HoHoI  here. 
I  come  directly. 
1  hear  and  oljey. 
Directly. 

1  oots? 
.•lothes  ? 
Give  soap. 

Let  us  go  (on  foot). 
Let  us  go  (in  a  cairiage). 
Go  on. 

Drive  gently. 
Never  mind,  or  no'.hing. 
Hurry  quick. 
Drive  faster. 
Have  a  care. 
Give  room,  give  place. 
To  the  right. 
To  tiie  left. 
Go  further  on. 
Drive  home. 
Stop. 
Tell  me. 
What  is  it  ? 
How  do  they  call  it? 

What  does  it  cost  ? 

How  much  the  arsiiin  ? 

How  much  the  pound  ? 

It  is  dear. 

It  is  much. 

It  is  cheap. 

Can  you  give  change  ? 

I  don't  know. 

Not  wanted. 

I  won't  liave. 

Is  it  ready  ? 

Set  the  tea-urn. 

(Jive  us  a  si)Oun. 

What's  to  be  done. 

What's  o'clock  ? 

It  is  1  o'clock. 

It  is  2       „ 

It  is  3       „ 

It  is  4       „ 

It  is  5       „ 

Have  you  a  room  ? 
Empty  that. 
Cle.ui  that. 
Dry  that. 

In  how  many  houi-s  ? 
Is  it  possible  ? 
Where  is  the  inn? 
How  many  versts? 
Where  is  the  landlord  ? 


3. —  Language. 


37 


Pajdi  sud'. 
Poslushi. 
Seichas  pridu. 
Sli'b/iaiu. 
Seichas. 

Gde  ^'^^•/\- 
Splat jje  ! 

Fa'i  iiiylo. 

J'oideni. 

J'oedem. 

Poshol. 

Tishe. 

Nicheho, 

SLorei. 

Poshol  skorei. 

Beregiss. 

I'adi,  padi. 

Na  pravo. 

Ka  leco. 

J^oshol  dahlte. 

Foiaoi. 

Stoi. 

SkdjUe-mne. 

Chto  tahoei 

Kah  zaviiti 

Chto  stoit  1  Sholho  stoit. 

Potchoin  arshin  i 

Potchoin  funt  i 

Eto  dorogo. 

Kto  mnogo. 

Fechevo  {dioshcco). 

,'<diichi  ycst  i 

Ke  znayii. 

Ne  nado. 

Ne  liocliu. 

GotovoH  i 

J'ostav  samovar. 

Fai  loshhu. 

Chtodclati 

Katori  chass  ? 

Tepper  chas. 

'Pepper  dva  chdsd. 

Tepper  tri  chdsd. 

'Pepper  chetyre  cJidsd. 

'Pej)per  plat  chasof. 

(The  latter  tennination  is  us:Hi  f*r  tho  re- 
mainder of  the  hours). 
Yest-li  nomer  i? 
OlMrojni. 
C] list  I. 
Prosushi. 

Cheres  sLolho  chasojf 
Mojnuli  i 
Gde  Trahtir'? 
Sholko  verst  i 
Gde'  hoziain. 


88  3, 

Where  is  my  servant  ? 

Where  is  the  waiter  ? 

Waiter! 

I  will  })ass  the  nigiit  here. 

When  do  you  start  ? 

To-day. 

To-morrow. 

In  an  hour. 

It  is  time  to  be  off. 

Bring  the  bill. 

The  bill  is  too  heavy. 

It  must  be  reduced. 

,,  .      cold 
Bring  ^^^   water. 

Which  is  the  way  to ? 

Pray  show  me  the  way. 

What  kind  of  a  road  is  it  ? 

Are  the  horses  to  ? 

What  is  to  pay  for  them  ? 

Drink  monev. 

lea  money. 

I  will  give  you  drink  money. 

I  will  not  give  you  drink  monev. 

What  will  you  charge  ?     (To  a'droshky ) 

or  sledge  driver).*  "  J 

No,  1  shall  only  give  20e.,  &c. 
What  stiition  is  it  ? 
How  long  do  we  stop  ? 
Where  is  the  refreshment-room  ? 
Where  is  the  W.  C.  ? 
AVhere  is  the  telegraph-olfice  ? 
Where  is  the  lugijage  ? 
The  lucrcrage  is  lost. 
Give  me  a  ticket. 
First  class. 
Second  class. 
Smoking  compartment. 
Is  smoking  allowed? 
Can  horses  be  obtained  at  the  station  to 

go  to  ? 

How  far  is from  the  station  ? 

How  far  can  I  book  ? 
I  wish  to  telegraph. 
To  the  station  master. 


-Language. 


Sect.  L 


Gdemoi  chelovc/r? 
Gild"  chelovek  i 
Chehvek  I 
Zdess  nochwju. 
Kogda  wij  vyedeta? 
Segodnia. 
Zactra. 
Cheres  chass. 
Pora  yehat. 
Prinessi  schot. 
tSchot  slishkom  vdih. 
Nado  sbavit. 

„  .        .       -.  holodnoi. 

J'rniessi  vodi      -.  -,    . 
goiixxchat. 

Katoroi  darogoi  inne  itti  — —  ? 

Proshu  pohasat  miia  darogu, 

Kakova  daroga  i 

Zapriajini'li'loshadi  f 

tikolko  progoH  i 

JVa  rod/: a. 

JVa  Cliai. 

Dam  na  vodhu. 

Nedam  na  vod/uU 

Za  sholho  ? 

Ket^  Dcadsat  hoped:,  ifc. 
Kahnga  Stantsia  f 
Sholho  minnt  / 
Ode  Buffet  f 
Gde  Othhojie  mesto  f 
Gde  telegraph  f 
Gde  bagaj  i 
Jiagaj  poteriin. 
J)ait^  rnn^  billet. 
Pei'vi  class, 
Vtoroi  class. 
Km  iielnoge  Otde'lea  iV. 
Kiirit  niojno  i 
Mojno-U    loshddd    dostat    na    Stantsii 

chiob  yehat  v '/ 

Paleko-li ot  Stantsii? 

Jh  hotoroi  Stantsii mogii poluchit  billet? 
lloch  u  i  elegn iph  irorat, 
liachaln ihii  Stitntsii. 


t 


E'J, 


■r.-^' 


Names  op  the  Months,  Days  of  the  Week,  kc. 


January 
Febniary 
March 
April 


Janvar. 
Fevrail. 
Mart. 
Aprcl. 


^lay 
.Iui;e 
July 
August 


Mai. 
Jan. 
Jul.     ' 
Avgvst, 


str^t"  soSi^Vr'^'S^M  ' '^"f  i%  '}  is  merely  necessary  to  mention  the  name  of  the 

street,  squie,  &c.,  ^\  th  the  i.dditicjn  of  the  question  skoUo-how  much?    A  burpain   then 

7S,;^J^u^'^r^:^:i:^'  ^"^-  --""S  «f^-  the  traveuer  with  L  word. 


Eussia. 

4.- 

—Literature, 

September 

Sentiabr, 

Sunday 

Voskresenie. 

October 

Ohtiabr. 

Winter 

Ziina. 

November 

Noiabr. 

Summer 

L€to. 

December 

Dehabr. 

A  year 

God. 

^londay 

Ponedelnih. 

A  month 

Mesiats. 

Tuesday 

Vtornik, 

A  week 

Nedelia. 

Wednesday 

Sere'da, 

A  day 

Den. 

Thursday 

Chetverg. 

An  hour 

Chass. 

Friday 

Piatnitsa. 

Half  an  hour 

Polchassa. 

Saturday 

Siibota. 

39 


The  Numerals. 


one,  odin. 
two,  dcd. 
three,  tri. 
four,  chetiri, 
five,  piat. 
six,  shest. 
seven,  sein. 
eight,  voseiii, 
nine,  deviat. 
ten,  deciat. 
eleven,  odin-natzat. 
twelve,  dve-natzat ; 

And  so  on,    always  adding  natzat  to 

each  number  up  to 
twenty,  dcatzat. 


twenty-one,  dvatzat-odin. 
twenty-two,  dmtzat-dva ; 

And  so  on,  always  adding  the  unit  up 

to  ten,  and  then 
thirty,  tritsat. 
forty,  soroh. 
fifty,  piatdesiat. 
sixty,  shesdesiai. 
seventy,  semdesiat. 
eighty,  voseindesiat. 
ninety,  devianosto. 
one  hundred,  sto. 
live  hundred,  piatt  sot. 
one  thousand,  tissiatcha. 


4. — LiTEUATURE. 

The  modern  literature  of  Ptiissia  dates,  as  almost  everything  else  in 
modern  Ilussia,  from  the  political  and  intellectual  reforms  effected  by  Peter 
the  Great.  After  the  liberation  of  Russia  from  the  Mongol  yoke,  which 
had  for  several  centuries  completely  arrested  the  intellectual  development 
of  the  Russian  nation,  the  Muscovite  Government  and  the  more  enlightened 
citizens  became  conscious  of  the  necessity  of  restoring  science  and  art. 
The  task  was  a  difficult  one.  They  could  no  longer  look  to  Constantinople, 
from  whence  at  an  earlier  epoch  Russia  had  received  the  first  rudiments 
of  Christian  civilization ;  science  and  art  had  fled  from  Byzantium  to  the 
AVest  of  Eurojie ;  and  from  immediate  intercourse  with  these,  Russia  was 
shut  out  by  her  geographical  position,  and  still  more  perhaps  Iby  difference 
of  religion  and  by  the  animosity  of  powerful  neighbours.  Polish  letters 
were  the  only  channel  through  which  Western  civilization  exercised  some 
amount  of  influence  on  Muscovy.  Indeed,  at  Kief  and  in  several  other 
cities  in  the  Russian  provinces  then  incorporated  with  Poland,  schools  were 
established,  where  classical  studies  were  conducted  on  the  same  i^lan  as  in 
the  West.  In  these  schools  were  formed  most  of  the  writers  of  the  sixteenth 
and  seventeenth  centuries,  and  even  later,  many  of  the  contemix)raries  of 
Peter  the  Great,  among  whom  we  will  only  name  the  most  zealous  partizan 
of  reform,  the  Archbishop  Theophanes  Procopovitch.  These  schools  were 
also  taken  as  a  model  for  the  lirst  classical  school  established  at  Moscow, 


40 


4. — Literature. 


Sect.  I. 


under  the  name  of  the  Latino -Greco -Slavonian  Academy.  It  is 
from  Poland  also  that  the  first  essays  of  a  drama  were  introduced 
into  Russia,  in  the  form  of  miracle  plays,  which,  from  the  ecclesiastical 
schools  of  Kief,  Wilna,  and  Moscow,  j)enetrated  into  the  houses  of  some 
rich  boyars,  and  even  into  the  palace  of  the  Tsar.  But  although  the 
influence  of  Poland  and  of  Polish  letters  on  the  literature  of  Kussia 
cannot  be  denied,  there  were  two  circumstances  which  did  not  allow  it  to  be 
so  great  or  so  beneficial  as  might  have  been  expected  :  firstly,  Polish  letters 
were  then  in  a  complete  decline,  owing  to  the  lifeless  scholasticism  intro- 
duced by  the  Jesuits,  under  whose  sway  society  had  fallen  ;  secondly, 
the  obstinate  etlbrts  made  by  the  lioman  Catholic  aristocracy  and  clergy 
to  bring  the  Piussian  subjects  of  the  republic  within  the  pale  of  the  Church 
of  Pome,  produced  a  violent  struggle  and  engaged  all  the  best  intellects  of 
the  country  in  religious  controversy.  The  printing  offices  of  Kief,  Wilna, 
Lemberg,  &c.,  on  which  the  reading  public  of  Muscovy  chiefly  depended 
for  books  (the  printing  office  established  at  Moscow  being  a})proi)riated 
almost  exclusively  to  the  use  of  the  Church  and  the  Government),  jiroduced 
scarcely  anything  except  devotional  books  and  controversial  tracts.  Thus 
Polish  influence  not  only  failed  to  free  the  literature  of  Kussia  from  its 
most  exclusively  devotional  and  ecclesiastical  character,  but,  on  the  con- 
trary, strengthened  it  in  that  direction.  A  more  direct  communication 
with  the  civilised  world  alone  could  have  i)Ut  an  end  to  that  state  of  things, 
and  have  roused  the  nation  from  its  secular  intellectual  slumber.  This  was 
felt  by  some  of  the  Tsars  of  Moscow,  and  they  tried  to  undertake  the  task. 
Boris  Godunof  sent  young  noblemen  to  study  abroad ;  lie  is  even  said  to  have 
contemplated  the  establishmen.t  of  a  university  at  Moscow.  In  general, 
however,  these  efforts  of  the  Tsars  were  of  a  very  timorous  nature, 
and  they  were  frequentl}'  frustrated  by  the  animosity  of  jealous  neigh- 
bours. Many  instances  are  recorded  of  professional'  men,  engaged  for  the 
service  of  the  Tsar,  having  been  prevented  by  the  Polish  or  Livonian 
authorities  I'rom  proceeding  on  their  way  to  Moscow.  At  length  Peter  the 
Great  did  in  a  violent  way  what  his  y)redecessors  had  been  unable  to  do  by 
milder  means.  He  broke  through  the  wall  which  had  hitherto  separated 
Kussia  from  Western  Europe,  and  forced  his  nation  into  the  main  channel 
of  European  civilization.  In  the  execution  of  this  plan  he  exhibited  the 
same  restless  activity,  the  same  faculty  of  ti\king  an  interest  in  the  most 
minute  details  of  a  scheme,  which  he  showed  in  his  other  acts.  Not  con- 
tent with  issuing  general  measures  for  the  dilfusion  of  knowledsre  amons 
liis  subjects,  with  erecting  new  schools  and  reforming  old  ones,  with  j)re- 
paring  the  plan  of  an  academy  of  sciences  (which  was  however  opened  only 
after  his  death),  he  also  found  leisure  to  choose  the  books  that  were  to  be 
translated  (generally  elementary  books  of  science),  and  sometimes  to  revise 
translations  and  to  inspect  their  printing.  It  is  even  related  that  he 
corrected  the  proofs  of  early  numbers  of  the  first  newspaper  published  by 
his  orders  at  Moscow  in  1703. 

The  first  classical  writer  and  reformer  of  letters  in  Ivussia  was  Lomo- 
nossof,  the  son  of  a  fisherman  at  Archangel,  who  flourished  in  the  reign  of 
the  Empress  Elizabeth,  a  man  remarkable  for  the  universality  of  his  genius 
and  acquirements.  Having  left  his  home  as  a  boy  of  seventeen,  he  studied 
first  at  Moscow  and  Petersburg,  and  finally  at  the  universities  of  Germany ; 
on  his  return  to  Petersburg  lie  was  apix)inted  professor  of  chemistry  to  the 


Russia. 


4. — Literature, 


41 


Academy  of  Sciences,  and  devoted  his  whole  life  to  the  promotion  of 
science  and  letters  in  his  country.  He  was  not  a  poet  in  the  modem  and 
stricter  acceptation  of  the  word ;  and  liis  odes,  his  tragedies,  and  his 
unfinished  epic  poem  are  little  more  than  clever  and  well-written  imita- 
tions of  German  and  French  models.  However,  he  is  not  quite  un- 
deservedly considered  as  the  creator  of  the  modern  poetry  of  Kussia,  for 
it  is  he  who  banished  the  clumsy  syllabic  verse  which  had  been  introduced 
from  Poland,  and  replaced  it  by  the  tonical  prosody  which  is  used  until 
now,  and  which  has  proved  so  congenial  to  the  Kussian  language.  He 
also  rendered  great  services  to  the  language  by  rejecting  from  it,  although 
not  completely,  numerous  ecclesiastical  Slavonian  exi)ressions  and  forms 
which  had  crept  in  under  the  influence  of  ecclesiastical  writers,  and  by 
tracing  a  line  of  separation  between  the  two  languages.  But  his  most 
important  right  to  the  gratitude  of  his  country  is  his  having  been  an 
indefatigable  champion  of  science  ;  he  was  alternately  grammarian,  philo- 
logist, historian,  chemist,  natural  philosopher,  metallurgist,  statistician,  and 
worker  in  mosaic ;  his  name  appears  in  tlie  beginning  of  almost  every 
branch  of  knowledge  and  art ;  he  was,  to  use  the  words  of  a  great  writer  of 
more  recent  date,  "  the  only  j^romoter  of  science  in  Kussia  in  the  period 
between  Peter  the  Great  and  Catherine  II." 

At  a  time  when  the  whole  of  Europe  was  under  the  influence  of  the 
artificial  pseudo-classical  school  of  France  it  is  not  surprising  that  Lomo- 
nossof  submitted  to  the  same  sway,  and  that  his  example  engaged  in  the 
same  direction  a  host  of  less  gifted  writers,  with  whom  literature  became  a 
mere  rhetorical  exercise,  a  childish  aping  of  French  models.  A  profusion 
of  epics,  tragedies,  odes,  c^'c,  ai)])eared  every  day,  and  Kussia  in  the 
raptures  of  her  newly  won  civilisation,  boasted  already  of  possessing  her 
own  Corneilles  and  Kacines,  Virgils  and  Yoltaires,  whose  works,  however, 
can  now  scaicely  be  got  through,  even  by  those  who  devote  themselves  to 
the  historical  study  of  literature,  if  we  except  Derjavin,  the  first  Kussian 
]>oet  of  eminence,  whose  odes  and  other  lyrics,  although  not  free  from  the 
rhetorical  bombast  which  was  then  held  to  be  poetry,  present  many  flashes 
of  a  genius  powerful  and  truly  poetic,  and  wliich  will  save  his  works  from 
oblivion,  notwithstanding  their  many  defects.  Satire  and  comedy  were  the 
only  kinds  of  literature  at  that  time,  and  these,  although  strictly  imitative 
in  their  forms,  were  of  some  originality  as  to  their  contents.  The  comedies 
of  Von-Wisin,  those  of  the  Empress  Catherine  II.,  the  satirical  essays  of 
Novikof  and  his  imitators,  the  fables  of  Khemnitzer,  are  until  now  read 
with  pleasure  as  interesting  illustrations  of  the  manners  and  ideas  of  their 
cix)ch.  Von-Wisiivs  comedy  of  *The  Minor'  still  appears  on  the  stage 
from  time  to  time. 

A  new  period  in  the  literature  of  Kussia  begins  with  Karamzin.  In  one 
sense  he  may  be  called  the  continuator  of  Lomonossof  s  reforms,  for,  while 
he  still  more  strictly  separated  the  vernacular  Kussian  from  the  Slavonian 
language,  he  also  banished  the  heavy  Latin  phraseology  introduced  by 
Lomonossof,  and  replaced  it  by  the  more  simple  and  natural  construction 
of  modern  languages.  He  thus  created  in  Kussia  an  elegant  literary  style 
adapted  to  the  wants  of  modern  civilization.  On  the  other  hand,  he 
abandoned  the  pomix)Us  rhetoric  of  his  predecessors,  and  introduced  the 
sentimentxality  which  was  in  such  vogue  in  Europe  at  the  end  of  the 
eighteenth  and  in  the  beginning  of  the  present  century.    By  his  periodicals, 


42 


4. — Literature. 


Sect.  I. 


in  which  ho  imblished  his  '  Letters  of  a  Traveller  '  (a  lively  and  brilliant 
description  of  his  tour  through  Europe),  sentimental  tales,  original  as  well 
as  translations,  and  popular  scientific  and  critical  essays,  he  more  than  any 
other  writer  contributed  to  spread  a  taste  for  reading  among  the  ])ublic.  In 
the  task  of  popularising  literature  he  was  much  assisted  by  Dimitrief,^  ^yho 
did  for  the  language  of  poetry  what  Karamzin  had  done  for  prose  writing. 
A  further  step  in  this^  direction  was  taken  by  Krylof,  whose  flxbles  arc 
equal  to  any  similar  productions  in  other  countries,  and  are  justly 
considered  as  most  ixjrfect  models  of  elegant  and  idiomatical  language. 
A  similar  style  is  met  with  in  Griboyedof's  comedy  '  Sorrow  comes  from 
Wit/  a  most  telling  satire  on  the  society  of  Moscow,  which  was  greedily  read 
and  learnt  by  heart  many  years  before  it  was  allowed  by  the  censor 
to  appear  on  the  stage  or  in  print.  Great  inlluence  on  the  literature  of 
Kussia  was  e:iercised  by  Jukovski,  who,  by  his  masterly  translations  of  some 
contemporary  English  and  German  poets,  introduced  into  Russia  the  then 
arising  romantic  school  of  poetry.  At  the  same  time  iMartinof,  by  liis 
translations  of  Greek  classics,  and  especially  Guaditch,  by  his  able  transla- 
tion of  the  *  Iliad,*  gave  to  their  countrymen  a  more  correct  idea  of  the  true 
character  of  classical  poetr}'-. 

But  the  great  national  poet  of  Russia  is  Pushkin.  IHs  works  are  very 
numerous  and  varied.  Alter  having  been  an  imitator  of  Byron  in  some  of 
his  earlier  poetical  tales  ('  The  Prisoner  of  the  Caucasus,'  '  The  Fountain 
of  Bakiichisarai,'  'The  Gipsies'),  he  exhiMtcd  in  his  more  mature  works  a 
truly  original  and  national  genius,  which  fully  justified  the  admiration 
which  is  paid  to  him  by  his  countrymen.  His  poetical  novel  ('  Evgheni 
Oneghin'),  a  tale  of  a  Russian /io??i7?ie  blase,  offers  lively  and  interesting 
pictures  of  provincial  and  mctroiX)litan  life  in  Russia.  His  '  Boris  Godunof  * 
is  a  magnificent  historical  drama,  after  the  model  of  Shakspere's  plays,  repre- 
senting Russia  at  the  highly  interesting  time  of  the  appearance  of  the  first 
ialse  Demetrius.  Among  his  other  works  we  shall  only  point  out  his  poem 
'  Poltava,'  some  fine  dramatic  sketches  ('  The  Stone  Guest,'  *  Mozart  and 
Salieri,'  'The  Covetous  Knight'),  and  a  delicious  story  in  prose,  '  The  Cap- 
tain's Daughter,'  presenting  a  picture  of  provincial  life  in  Paissia  at  the  time 
of  the  Pugatchef  rebellion.  A  great  number  of  Pushkin's  lyric  pieces  re- 
commend themselves  as  well  by  vigour  of  thought  and  deep  feeling  as  by 
elegance  of  style  and  melody  of  verse.  Lermantof  holds  the  next  place  after 
Pushkin  in  the  consideration  of  his  countrymen,  and,  indeed,  althouizh  he 
died  before  his  talent  had  come  to  full  maturity,  the  vigour  of  thought  and 
passion,  and  the  strength  of  expression,  which  unite  in  his  poetry  with  an 
exquisite  harmony  of  versification,  would  undoubtedly  have  gained  him  a 
prominent  position  in  any  literature. 

Of  otlier  modern  poets,  the  most  remarkable  are  Baratinski,  Yazikof, 
Khomiakof,  Countess  Rostopchin,  the  peasant  poets  Koltsof  and  Nikitin. 
Among  living  poets  we  may  mention  Maikof,  Stcherbina,  Nekrassof  (a  most 
bitter  satirist),  Polonski,  and  Count  A.  Tolstoi,  author  of  an  historical  drama, 
*  The  Death  of  John  the  Terrible,'  which  has  had  a  great  success  on  the 
stage. 

A  writer  whose  |X)pularity  and  whose  influence  on  the  literature  of  his 
country  are  equal,  if  not  even  superior,  to  those  of  Pushkin,  is  Gogol,  the 
great  humourist  of  Russia,  a  man  who  possessed  to  a  high  degree  the  art,  to 
use  his  own  expression,  of  "  laughing  a  laugh  under  which  are  bitter  tears ;" 


Eussia. 


4. — Literature. 


43 


to  analyse  "  the  mud  of  trifling  things  with  which  life  is  shackled  ;  to  ex- 
ix)se  the  triviality  and  meanness  of  life  and  of  man," — such  is  the  usual 
theme  of  his  works,  and  this  theme  he  realizes  with  striking  truth  and 
inexhaustible  humour.  His  chief  works  are  a  comedy,  *  The  Revisor,'  which 
holds  permanent  possession  of  the  stage,  and  is  considered  as  the  best 
comedy  in  the  Russian  language,  and  a  tale  entitled  '  The  Dead  Souls,'  of 
which  an  English  translation  has  been  published. 

As  almost  all  the  modern  poets  of  Russia  are  more  or  less  indebted  to 
Pushkin,  so  the  influence  of  Gogol  may  be  traced  in  a  greater  or  smaller 
degree  in  almost  all  the  branches  of  Russian  novel- writing.  The  modern 
novel-writers  who  hold  the  highest  place  arc  Turguenief,  Gontcharof, 
Pisemski,  Dostoievski,  and  Count  A.  Tolstoi. 

The  writing  of  historical  novels,  which  had  been  quite  abandoned  for 
some  years,  has  been  resumed  by  Count  A.  Tolstoi,  who  has  published  an 
historical  romance  describing  the  epoch  of  John  the  Terrible,  and  by  Count 
L.  Tolstoi,  whose  romance  entitled  'War  and  Peace'  pur^jorts  to  represent 
the  social  life  of  Russia  during  the  first  quarter  of  the  present  century. 

Of  modern  comedies  those  of  Ostrovski  alone  deserve  to  be  mentioned. 

Scientific  literature  can  be  but  poor  in  a  country  where  science  has  been 
introduced  so  recently,  and  where,  until  of  late  years,  literature  has  been 
under  the  control  of  rigorous  censors.  The  histoiy  of  Russia  is  almost  the 
only  branch  of  science  in  which  some  remarkable  original  works  are  to  be 
found.  The  first,  most  celebrated  historian  in  Russia  is  Karamzin,  who,  in 
his  '  History  of  the  Russian  State,'  gave  for  the  first  time  a  true  work  of 
science  and  art,  and  not,  as  his  predecessors  Tatischef  and  Prince  Stcher- 
batof,  a  crude  and  clumsy  digest  of  the  old  chronicles  and  annals.  Not- 
withstanding the  progress  made  by  historical  investigation  since  it  was  first 
published,  his  work  is  until  now  not  only  widely  read  by  the  general  public, 
but  even  studied  and  considered  as  a  book  of  reference  by  every  writer  on 
national  history.  Among  the  numerous  more  modern  historical  writers,  we 
shall  only  name  Polevoi  Solovief  (Professor  at  Moscow,  whose  work  is  now 
considered  the  best  history  of  Russia),  Ustrialof  (author  of  a  very  detailed 
history  of  Peter  the  Great,  of  which  only  a  few  volumes  have  as  yet  been 
published),  Kostomarof  (author  of  several  historical  works  on  Little  Russia 
before  its  incorporation  with  Russia,  on  the  ancient  municipal  constitutions 
of  Novgorod  and  Pskof,  on  the  false  Demetrius,  &c.),  Beliayef,  Stchapof 
(author  of  a  good  work  on  the  Russian  dissenters) ;  Miliutin,  Minister  of 
War,  author  of  a  work  on  the  Italian  ciimpaign  of  Suwarof,  and  Bogdano- 
witch  (a  history  of  the  war  of  1812). 

Until  a  very  recent  period,  all  the  other  branches  of  scientific  literature 
were  almost  exclusively  (and  even  now  are  to  a  great  extent)  supplied  by 
translations  from  foreign  languages.  It  was  in  the  reign  of  Catherine  II., 
whose  influence  on  the^'intellectual  development  of  the  Russian  people  was 
very  marked,  that  translations  began  to  be  cultivated.  They  continued 
with  great  activity  during  the  first  part  of  the  reign  of  Alexander  I. ;  but  in 
the  last  years  of  his  reign  this  activity  was  arrested  by  a  sudden  increase  of 
the  severity  of  the  censorship,  which,  far  from  abating  in  the  reign  of 
Nicholas,  grew  at  last  to  such  a  system  of  censorial  terror,  that  not  even  the 
most  innocent  novel  could  be  translated  without  considerable  mutilations. 
Under  the  more  liberal  system  which  has  been  inaugurated  during  the 
present  reign  translations  are  again  published  with  great  activity,     '''^'" 


The 


44 


5. — Measures,  Weujhts,  and  Coins. 


Sect.  I. 


works  of  Macaulay,  Buckle,  Adam  Smith,  J.  Stuart  !Mill,  and  many  other 
standard  English  works,  may  now  be  read  in  the  Kussian  language. 

The  present  |x^riod  is  marked  by  a  cultivation  of  political  writing,  most  of 
the  intellect  of  the  country  being  absorbed  in  administrative  reforms.  The 
ix)litical  economists  and  statists  form  a  comparatively  small  school,  but  aro 
nevertheless  well  known  to  the  scientific  societies  of  Euroi^e.  The  news- 
I)ai)crs  employ  a  very  considerable  number  of  writers.  The  foremost  journal 
is  the  *  Moscow  Gazette,'  with  a  circulation  of  about  15,000.  The  only 
other  newspai)er  of  any  note  at  Moscow  is  the  *  Moscow,'  supported  by  the 
Panslavist  and  Protectionist  parties.  At  St.  Petersburg  each  minister  of 
state  has  his  organ.  The  *  Journal  de  St.  Petersbourg'  is  the  mouthpiece 
of  the  Imperial  Foreign  Office.  Of  the  monthly  maizazines  the  most  im- 
jwrtant  are  the  *  Moscow  Herald,*  conducted  by  Mr.  Katkof,  and  the 
*  Herald  of  Europe,'  conducted  by  Mr.  Stassulevitch.  The  scientific  ])ub- 
lications  of  the  War  Office  and  Admiralty,  and  the  Pieports  of  the  Minister 
of  Public  Instruction,  are  of  high  interest.  The  several  scientific  societies  of 
Ptussia  publish  journals,  whose  valuable  contents  are  almost  entirely  lost  to 
Western  Europe,  owing  to  the  language  in  which  they  are  edited. 

Although  the  periodical  press  is  no  longer  subject  to  a  preventive  censor- 
ship, yet  it  is  far  from  being  free:  it  is  under  the  control  of  the  Minister  of 
the  Interior,  and  the  system  of  avei'tlssemeuts  and  siisj^ensions^  which  has 
been  borrowed  from  France,  weighs  somewhat  heavily  upon  it. 


dium 
12  dium 

vershok 
IG  vershoks 
3  avsliius 

500  sajeiis 
2400  sq.  snjens 


5. —Measures,  AVeights,  and  Coins. 

Measuuks  of  Length. 
=    1  inch  EllL^       =     0*0254  metre. 


=    1  foot 


=      0-3048 


»> 


=    1*75  inch  Eng. 

==    1  arshin  =  28  inclics  Eng. 

=    1  sajen  or  fathom  =  7  leet  Eng.        =      2*1330  metres. 

(N.B.  a  nautical  sajen  has  0  feet). 
=    1  verst  =  0*OG  or  §  mile  Eng.  =      1*0008  kilom. 


=    1  desiatina  =  2*80  acres  Eng. 


Measures  op  Capacitv. 

shtof  =    I  vedro. 

8  shtofs  =    1  vedro  =  3*25  galls,  wine,  and  2*06  galls,  beer  measure  Eng. 

0.1230  hectolitre. 


garnets 
8  garnels 
8  chetveriks 


Drv  [Measure. 

0*34  peck  Eng. 

1  chetverik  =  2*73  pecks  or  C8  bushel  Eng. 

1  chetvert  or  quarter  =  5*40  bushels  Eug. 


Weights.* 

1  zolotnik  =  2*41  drams  avoirdupois    =   4205  milligrammes. 

96  zolotniks  =  1   fimt           =      14*43  ozs.  avordupois,  or     0.40952  kilo. 

40  i)ounds  =  1  pud            =      30*08  lbs.            „          „     l6    kilo.   372. 

10  puds  =  1  berkovets  =   360*80  lbs.          „         „  163      „      720. 


•  The  principal  wciglits  and  measures  will  probably  soon  be  decimalized  on  the  basis  of  the 
metrical  system. 


Russia. 


5. — Measures,  Weights,  and  Coins, 


45 


Coins.— The  coinage  of  Taissia  is  decimal;  thus— 100  copecks  make 
1  ruble.  The  ruble,  of  which  the  standard  is  silver,  contains  about 
18  grs.  of  pure  silver,  and  an  alloy  of  about  13  per  cent.,  or  83^  in  96.  Its 
par'^value  in  English  money  is  38^cZ.,  but  the  rate  of  exchange  has  occa- 
sionally lowered  it  to  25c?. 

The  only  silver  money  in  circulation  are  pieces  of  20,  15,  10,  and  5 
copecks.  The  intrinsic  value  of  these  coins  was  reduced  by  12  per  cent,  in 
1860.     The  copper  tokens  range  between  1  and  5  cops. 

The  lower  classes,  particularly  in  the  interior  of  Russia,  still  speak  of  the 
"Grivna,"  an  old  coin  of  the  value  of  10  cop.  Thus,  "Grivennik"  is  10 
cop.,  and  "  Dvugrivinny  "  20  cop. 

Taken  at  par  the  sovereign  is  worth  6  rs.  28  cops.,  and  the  shillmg 
31  cops ;  but  the  rate  of  exchange  enhances  their  nominal  value  in  paper 

currency. 

The  paper-money  in  circulation  is  inconvertible,  but  has  a  forced  cur- 
rency. The  notes  represent  100  rubles ;  50  rs.,  25  rs.,  10  rs.,  5  rs.,  3  rs., 
and  1  ruble,  and  are  plainly  stamped  with  their  value.  Those  recently 
issued  are  very  elaborate  in  design,  and  bear  portraits  of  Kussian  sove- 
reigns. 

The  Treasury  Bonds  are  for  50  rs.,  and  bear  4^  per  cent,  mtercst. 
Russian  paper-money  may  now  be  freely  exported  and  imported.* 

Example  to  find  the  value  of  50  rubles  Russian  money  in  British 
sterling,  at  the  rate,  say,  of  32(?.  to  the  ruble  :— 

liuble.  Teiice.  Rubles. 

1  =  32  X  50 

50 


12)1600 

20)133 

4 

Answer    £6 

13 

4 

or  50?.  in  Russian  rubles  at  tbe  same  rate  : — 


Pence. 
32 


Copecks. 
100  X 


Pence. 

12,000  = 

100 

32)1,200,000(375.00 
96 


£50 


240 
224 

160 
160 


uOo 


Ausicer    R.  375.00  Cop. 


*  Travellers  will  receive  the  current  value  of  their  money  in  Russian  rubles,  and  vice  versa, 
at  the  frontier  sUlious  at  Wirballen  and  Eydkuhnen.  It  is,  however,  best  to  carry  only  tbe 
amount  strictly  requisite,  and  to  keep  the  rest  in  circular  notes,  or  with  a  banker  at  St. 
Petersburg  or  Moscow. 


46 


5. — Measures,  Weights,  and  Cains, 


Sect.  I. 


The  value  of  a  sovereign  in  Russian  money,  at  the  exchange  of  Sid.,  will 
be  found  thus  : — 


Pence. 
32 


Copecks. 
100 
240 


I'ence. 
240 


20<f. 


32)24,000(7.50 
224 

160 
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48 


5. — Measures,  Wei(jhts,  and  Coins, 


Sect.  I. 


"Russia. 


5. — Measures,  Weiglits,  and  Coins. 


49 


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Ettssia — 18G8. 


60 


5. — MeasureSy  WeightSy  and  Coins. 


Sect.  I. 


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Russia. 


7. — CuBtom-Jiouses, 


51 


6. — Passport  Regulations. 

By  an  ukaz  of  the  31st  December,  1864,  foreigners  arriving  in  Russia, 
eitlier  by  sea  or  by  land,  with  passports  duly  vised  at  one  of  the  Imperial 
Embassies,  Legations,  or  Consulates  (in  London,  32,  Great  AVinchester- 
street,  City),  may  reside  in  any  part  of  liussia,  and  travel  throughout  the 
empire,  with  the  same  passport  lor  the  term  of  6  months.  The"^ passport 
must  be  exhibited  on  arrival  to  the  local  authorities  (through  the  hotel- 
keeper,  to  avoid  inconvenience),  who  will  register  it.  Should  the  traveller 
desire  to  stay  longer  than  G  months,  a  regular  passport  for  residence 
must  be  applied  for  at  the  Alien  Office.  Travellers  who  have  not 
stayed  in  lUissia  beyond  the  term  of  6  months  may  leave  the  empire,  by 
sea  or  by  land,  with  their  national  passports,  after  a  second  visa  by  the 
authorities  to  the  efifect  that  there  is  no  impediment  to  their  leaving  the 
country.  The  latter  regulation  is  intended  to  prevent  the  absconding  of 
debtors,  or  of  parties  in  a  criminal  or  civil  suit,  before  the  verdict  of'^the 
Court. 

Obs, — The  principal  formality  which  the  traveller  has  therefore  to  observe 
is,  to  have  his  ]iassport  vised  by  a  Russian  di])lomatic  or  consular  official. 
The  rule  ai)i)lies  ecpially  to  Finland  and  Poland.  The  jDassport  regulations 
are  now  more  strictly  ap{)lied  than  ever,  particularly  at  8t.  Petersburg, 
notwithstanding  that  in  every  other  country  on  the  Continent  the  passport 
system,  so  obnoxious  to  the  modern  traveller,  is  almost  entirely  abolished, 
'iourists  should  keep  this  in  mind,  for  any  neglect  of  the  Russian  regula- 
tions is  visited  with  severe  discomfort,  if  with  nothing  more. 


7. — CusTOM-HousEs. 

Travellers  will  meet  with  every  civility  at  the  hands  of  the  Russian 
Custom-house  officers.  Although  tlie  tariff  is  still  highly  protective,  i)ersons 
evidently  travelling  for  pleasure,  and  not  for  the  purposes  of  trade,  are  very 
little  molested  by  the  search  for  articles  liable  to  duty.  There  has  hitherto 
been  some  difficulty  in  passing  books,  maps,  guides,  and  other  products  of 
the  i)ress,  but  a  recent  reguLation  permits  the  introduction  of  all  such 
l)rinted  works  as  Continental  travellers  are  in  the  habit  of  carrying  with 
them,  excluding  the  publications  of  the  Paissian  revolutionary  press  in 
liondon  and  elsewhere.  Travellers  are  cautioned  against  introducing  the 
latter  works.  Bibles  and  Prayer-Books  are  not  touched,  nor  need  the 
Handbook  be  any  longer  concealed.  When  the  books  are  in  large  parcels, 
they  will  be  forwarded  by  the  frontier  authorities  to  the  Censorship  Com- 
mittee at  St.  Petersburg,  by  which  they  are  examined,  and  ultin:>ately 
restored  to  the  owner.  English  and  foreign  newspapers  are  not  seized,  ;is 
formerly,  when  used  as  wrappers.  Scaled  letters,  lottery-tickets,  jilaying- 
cards,  and  books  of  an  immoral  or  irreligious  tendency,  arc  liable  to  seizure. 
Fire-arms  cannot  be  introduced  into  Russia  and  Poland  without  special 
licence.  Travellers  coming  to  Russia  for  the  purpose  of  shooting  should 
deliver  up  their  guns  to  the  Customs'  authorities,  by  whom  they  will  be 
forwarded  to  the  place  of  destination,  there  to  be  applied  for  on  arrival.  The 
proi^er  office  will  be  indicated,  and  a  receipt  will  be  given. 

JRussia.—lSGS.  ^  e 


52 


8. — Postage. 


Sect.  I. 


The  proceedings  of  Govcmment  oflicials  are  Air  stricter  in  Poland  than 
elsewhere  in  the  Russian  dominions,  and  their  searchinc!;s  are  tedious,  both 
at  the  frontier  and  the  entrance  to  Warsaw.  The  officers  are,  however, 
civil  and  courteous  as  long  as  the  traveller  is  so,  and  a  Custom-house 
officer  cannot  have  much  to  say  to  a  person  whose  baggage  is  confined  to 
his  own  f)crsonal  requisites. 

NJL — Any  well-founded  complaints  against  officers  of  Customs  will  be 
strictly  inquired  into  and  redressed  by  His  Excellency  the  Director  of 
Customs  at  St.  Petersburg,  to  whom  representations  should  be  addressed. 


8. — PosTixa. 

In  order  to  travel  ix)3t  in  Pussia,  it  is  necessary  to  have  a  pcxhrojua,  or 
order  for  horses,  in  which  is  inserted  the  name  of  the  place  to  which  the 
traveller  is  going,  the  distance  in  versts,  and  the  number  of  horses  required. 
Tlie  cost  of  the  podorojna  depends  on  the  number  of  versts  and  horses,  at  a 
mte  which  varies  from  11  cops,  to  5  cops,  per  horse,  according  to  the 
locality.  This  document  is  obtained  from  the  governor  of  the  town  which 
the  trn.veller  is  leaving,  or  at  an  office  specially  appointed  for  tlie  purpose.  On 
making  the  a]>plication  it  is  necessary  to  produce  a  passport.  The  greatest 
eare  must  be  taken  of  the  podorojna,  and  it  should  be  kept  at  hand,  for  it 
will  be  required  at  each  post-station  as  an  authority  for  the  ],x)st-masters  to 
furnish  horses;  and,  if  mislaid  or  lost,  the  unfortunate  owner  will  be 
obliged  to  continue  his  journey  with  a  peasant's  horses,  subject  to  all  his 
caprices  as  to  charge,  hour  of  starting,  and  distance  of  each  day's  journey. 
A  table  showing  the  distance  from  one  station  to  another  is  hung  up  in 
every  post-house,  frequently  a  mere  liut ;  also  the  charge  for  each  liorse  is 
stated.  A  book  is  likewise  kept  in  which  travellers  may  enter  their  com- 
plaints. Should  any  difficulties  arise,  a  request  to  see  this  book  may  have 
some  effect  upon  the  dilatory  and  extortionate  ix)st-n)aster.  This  official  is 
bound  to  furnish  at  least  the  number  of  horses  ordered  in  the  ix)dorojna ; 
but  he  may  oblige  the  traveller  to  take  more  if  the  roads  require  it,  and  this 
he  does  sometimes  to  the  extent  of  making  him  journey  with  G,  and  in  very 
bad  roads  9  hoi*ses ;  he  may  also,  and  often  does,  on  the  erossr-roads,  affirm 
there  are  no  horses  left  but  those  which  he  is  Ixnmd  to  keep  for  the  mail 
or  Government  courier.  A  little  persuasion  will  however  generally  secure 
the  requisite  number  of  quadrupeds.  The  drivers  expect  a  fee  of  10  to 
20  cops,  for  the  stage,  according  to  its  length.  This  varies  greatly,  viz. 
from  12  to  30  versts.  Many  of  the  post-masters  in  the  South  of  Pussia  are 
l^olish  Jews,  and,  though  not  more  rapacious  than  their  Christian  brethren 
of  the  same  trade,  are  quite  as  bad. 

The  traveller  should  take  especial  care  never  to  travel  jx)st  just  before,  or 
immediately  after,  a  courier  or  other  man  in  authority.  The  saving  in 
time  and  tem|X3r  will  be  considerable  if  an  avant  courier  is  employed  when 
travelling  in  the  steppe.  The  speed  when  posting  is  sometimes  great,  the 
horses  going  ventre  a  terre;  but  so  much  time  is  lost  at  the  post-houses  in 
changing,  that,  including  stoppages,  the  traveller  will  not  clear  much  beyond 
8  or  9  miles  an  hour.  If  the  traveller  is  not  provided  with  his  own  carriage, 
or  should  he  not  borrow  or  hire  one  at  the  place  of  starting,  he  must  content 


Russia. 


9. — Cuisine  and  Bestatirants. 


5a 


himself  with  the  accommodation  afforded  by  a  tdec/a,  a  small  open  waggon 
without  springs,  but  strongly  constructed,  so  as  to  withstand  the  roads  of 
the  country.  The  jolting  is  most  painful ;  straw,  and  not  unfrequently  a 
bed,  is  placed  in  the  cart  by  Pussian  travellers.  Gathering  up  his  6  or  8 
reins,  for  there  are  2  to  each  horse,  and  grasping  his  short  severe  whip,  the 
yamstchik  leaves  the  post-house  at  a  furious  gallop,  and  keeping  the  horses 
at  this  pace  nearly  the  whole  stage,  not  unfrequently  returns  to  his  station 
with  one  less  than  he  set  out  with.  The  kihitka  in  winter  is  an  improve- 
ment on  the  tchfja^  as  it  has  a  hood  and  an  apron. 

In  the  winter  sledges  will  be  found  even  as  far  South  as  Odessa,  and  in 
this  season  from  10  to  12  miles  an  hour  may  be  accomplished.  The  price 
of  posting  in  the  Finnish  provinces  is,  jx^rhaps,  rather  less  than  in  Pussia. 
In  the  provinces  of  Esthonia,  Livonia,  and  Courland,  a  consideral)le  dif- 
ferefice  exists,  the  charges  in  the  latter  district  being  much  higher  than  in 
any  other  part  of  Pussia.  In  Poland  the  charge  is  1  zlot  (dd.  Enc^lish)  per 
Polish  mile  of  7  versts  for  each  horse,  and  about  half  a  zlot  for  the  driver ; 
but  it  is  customary  to  give  them  1  zlot  per  mile.  The  whole  system  is 
much  inferior  to  that  established  in  Pussia,  or  in  the  provinces  of  Livonia 
and  Courland ;  even  where  the  roads  are  as  good  as  any  in  Europe,  as  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Warsaw,  the  traveller  is  unable  to  make  much  speed, 
and  the  constant  delays  from  the  horses  not  being  ready  are  vexatious  in 
the  extnmie.  As  alterations  are  frequently  made  in  the  post-stations, 
and  sometimes  in  the  roads,  it  will  be  desirable  for  the  traveller,  should  he 
purpose  visiting  the  more  distant  provinces  of  the  empire,  to  purchase  the 
printed  routes  published  on  authority  for  the  year,  and  have  the  names  of 
the  stations  read  over  to  him,  so  that  he  can  write  them  down  in  English — 
this  will  preserve  him  from  the  idea  that  he  is  imposed  upon,  sometimes  as 
great  a  vexation  as  the  reality.  The  post-maps  are  very  accurate.  The 
price  of  the  ix)sting  is  always  paid  before  starting. 


9. — Cuisine  and  Pestaurants. 

The  Diner-a-la-Pusse,  as  known  in  England,  differs  widely  in  substance, 
though  not  in  form,  from  its  j^rototype  of  Moscow. 

The  following  is  the  menu  *  of  a  Pussian  dinner,  which  the  traveller  is 
invited  to  read  in  Pussian  accents  to  the  proprietor  of  the  *'  Palkin  Traktir" 
at  St.  Petersburg,  or  to  the  landlord  of  the  "  Novo-Troitski,"  or  the 
"  Moscovski  Traktir,"  at  Moscow. 


I. — Zakuska. 

This  is  the  vorschnack  (dinette)  of  most  northern  nations.  It  consists 
of  various  relishes,  such  as  fresh  caviar,  raw  herrings,  smoked  salmon,  halyk 
(sturgeon  dried  in  the  sun),  raw  smoked  goose,  radishes,  cheese,  butter, 
and  other  comestibles.  These  need  not  be  specified,  the  word  "  Zakuska  " 
comprehending  everything  of  the  kind  in  season.  A  glass  of  Kiimmel 
(Alasch),  or  of  "  Listofka,"  an  excellent  spirit  flavoured  with  the  young 

*  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  point  out  that  this  is  not  the  menu  of  a  recherche  dinner,  but 
simply  of  a  repast  composed  exclusively  of  national  plats. 

E  2 


54 


0.— Cuisine  and  Bestauranfs. 


Sect.  I. 


leaves  of  the  black  currant,  is  highly  recommended.     The  curious  may 
try  the  other  liquors,  or  vodkas,  which  will  be  served  up. 


77, — The  Obed,  or  Dinner, 

1.  Soups: — 

Okroshka ;  a  cold  iced  soup  of  kvas  (a  beverage  made  of  fermented  rye), 
with  pieces  of  herring,  cucumber,  and  meat  floating  in  it. 

Batvenia  ;  another  cold  soup  of  green  colour,  scarcely  more  jialatable. 
Stchi :  a  very  go<xl  cabbage  soup  ;  the  sour  cream  served  round  should 

be  added. 

Ukha,  or  fish  soup :  this  is  rather  exixiusive  if  made  of  sterlet,  but  is 

very  good  of  ershi,  or  stone-ixjrch. 

Travellers  would  do  well  to  order  small  (luantities  of  each  description  of 
potage,  in  the  ratio  of  one  portion  for  three  or  four.  A  mere  taste  will 
suffice  in  the  case  of  the  two  cold  soups. 

2.  llastigai :  patties  of  the  isinglass  and  flesh  of  the  sturgeon.  Very 
much  like  muffins  with  fish. 

3.  Solianka,  Kmsny  Perets :  a  dish  comiX)sed  of  fish  and  cabbage, 
riecommended.     Use  cayenne. 

4.  Pojarskie  kotlety  :  cutlets  of  chicken  Ji  la  Pojarski,  the  patriot.  Very 
good.     Veal  cutlets  are  also  a  si)eciality  of  ISIoscow. 

t^.  Porosenok  ix)d  khrenbm :  cold  boiled  sucking  pig  with  horse-radish 
sauce.     Not  a  pretty  dish,  but  very  eatable. 

6.  Barany-bok  s-kashoi:  roast  mutton  stuffed  with  buckwheat.  Au 
excellent  opportunity  of  tasting  the  buckwheat,  the  staple  food  of  the 
country. 

7.  Jarkoe :  the  roast,  consisting  of  molwlye  tetcreva,  or  young  capercailzie 
(up  to  September)  ;  riabchik,  a  kind  of  grouse  (all  the  year  round) ;  aud 
dupelia,  or  double  snipe  (in  September).  Salted  cucumlx^rs  as  salad.  Vege- 
tables will  not  be  served  unless  ordered. 

8.  Pirojnoc  :  sweet  dishes.  Gurief  pudding,  made  principally  of  buck- 
wheat, is  not  a  bad  dish. 

Order  Nesselrode  pudding,  an  excellent  combination  of  plum-pudding 
and  ices,  and  Moscovite,  something  between  an  ice  and  a  jelly,  flavoured 
with  the  fruit  of  the  season. 

Should  digestion  require  it,  the  >%/',  or  cheese  from  the  Zakuska,  and 
even  the  caviar,  may  be  served  up  again,  though  it  is  not  customary  at  a 
llussian  table. 

With  reference  to  wines  and  drinks,  it  is  indisiK-nsable,  for  the  sake  of 
harmony  and  comparison,  to  order  nothing  but  what  is  produced  on  Russian 
soil.  The  sherry  of  the  Crimea  is  a  very  tolerable  brown  sherry  ;  the 
imitations  of  Bordeaux  and  Champagne,  provided  they  are  really  of  the 
Crimean  grape,  not  of  the  manufactories  at  Yaroslaf,  are  better  than  many 
inferior  marks  of  the  genuine  article.  Prince  Woronzoft''s  wines  are  highly 
recommended.  The  wine  of  the  Caucasus  comes  in  very  appropriately  as  a 
Burgundy.  Be  sure  to  ask  for  Kahetinskoe,  a  very  sound  and  pure  wine. 
The  ladies  will  be  pleased  with  Gumbrinskoe,  a  pleasant  sweet  wine  grown 
in  the  Gumbri  district  of  the  Caucasus.  The  champagne  of  the  Don, 
Donsko^  Champanskoe',  very  often  appears  on  Russian  tables  disguised  as 
Clicquot,  and  is  really  a  very  potable  wine  ;  all  the  sparkling  wines  of  the 


Kussia. 


9. — Cuisine  and  Bestaurants. 


55 


Crimea  have  a  slight  taste  of  apples,  and  the  others  have  the  goict  du 
terroir. 

But  besides  the  wines,  there  are  several  delicious  beverages,  under  the 
denomination  of  Kvas.  Order  lablochni  kvas,  or  cider;  Grushevoi  kvas, 
or  i^erry  ;  Malinovoi,  or  raspberry  kvas.  The  best,  however,  of  all,  is  per- 
ha])s  the  goblet  of  cool  Lomix)po,  the  recipe  of  which  is  supposed  to  have 
travelled  from  the  Baltic  provinces.  There  is  excellent  beer  to  be  had  at 
St.  Petersburg.  "  Cazalet's  or  Kalinkinski  Pale  Ale "  is  almost  equal  to 
English  draught  ale.  At  Moscow  "  Danielson's  "  beer  is  alone  drunK. 
Mead  is  likewise  very  pleasant  to  the  taste.  All  these  drinks  are  served 
in  old  silver  tankards  and  beakers  of  German  work.  Coff'ee,  liqueurs, 
and  cigarettes  complete  the  feast.  Fruits  can  be  had  if  demanded ; 
excellent  in  season. 

The  service  is  very  good;  the  slightest  want  is  quietly  and  promptly 
supplied  by  the  most  civil  of  waiters,  attired  in  bright-coloured  silk  shirts, 
worn  over  another  garment  of  equal  efi'ect  and  neatness. 

The  cost  of  a  dinner  like  that  described  above,  exclusive  of  the  zakuska, 
sterlet  soup,  wines,  kvas,  coftee,  and  fruit,  will  not  be  less  than  2  rs.  50  cop. 
per  head  (7s.  GJ.),  and  perhaps  5  rs.  (locS.)  in  a  dear  season.  The  charge 
for  a  plate  of  sterlet  soup  is  from  1*50  to  3  rs  (4s,  M.  to  Us.)  according  to 
the  size  of  the  fish  ordered. 

The  wines  are  very  clieap  compared  with  those  of  France  or  Spain. 

The  dinner  should,  if  possible,  be  ordered  a  day  beforehand,  although  a 
few  hours  will  suffice  to  secure  most  of  the  dishes  named.  In  ordering  it, 
special  mention  should  be  made  of  the  wines  of  the  Crimea,  of  the  Don, 
and  the  Caucasus,  as  well  as  of  the  Kvas,  as  the  former  are  not  generally 
kept  on  the  premises.  If  the  i^rty  be  numerous,  two  or  three  rubles 
should  be  distributed  among  the  waiters. 

Having  finislied  dinner,  the  visitor  to  Moscow  should  proceed  to  inspect 
the  rooms  devoted  to  tea-drinking.  A  seat  close  to  the  barrel-organ  is  the 
best  point  of  observation.  While  sipping  Joltoi  Cliai^  or  yellow  tea, 
observe  the  bearded  natives  refilling  their  small  teapot  with  a  never-failing 
supply  of  hot  water,  soon  converted  into  the  palest  beverage,  sweetened 
with  the  piece  of  sugar  kept  in  the  mouth.  The  conversations  carried 
on  over  the  Chai  relate  to  the  transfer  of  rubles  for  value  received  or  to  be 
given.  Events  of  a  more  festive  character  are  celebrated  at  establishments 
where  the  bottle  and  the  glass  replace  the  more  steady  teapot,  especially 
since  the  price  of  Vodka  has  been  made  very  low.  Those  establishments 
need  not  be  inspected  ;  their  effect  will  be  painfully  seen  in  the  tottering 
moujik  and  the  oblivious  woman  jolting  home  in  a  drojky,  or  waiting  to 
be  ])icke(l  up  from  the  gutter. 

The  climate  must  to  a  great  extent  be  resix)nsible  for  the  habit  of 
drunkenness  unfortunately  so  ])revalent  in  Russia,  for  it  is  older  than  the 
reforms  in  the  excise  to  which  much  of  it  is  now  attributed.  Master  George 
Turberville,  secretary  to  an  English  embassy  to  Moscow  in  the  year  1568, 
says  of  the  Russians  that  they  are — 


"  Folke  fit  to  be  of  Baccbiis'  train,  so  quaffing  is  their  kinde. 
Drink  is  tlieir  wliole  desire,  tlie  pot  is  all  their  pride, 
The  sob'rest  head  doth  once  a  day  stand  needful  of  a  guide ; ' 
If  lie  to  banket  bid  his  friends,  he  will  not  shrinke 
C)n  tht'pi  at  dinner  to  bestow  a  doz;cn  kinds  of  drinke  ; 


5G  10. — Climate,  Clothing,  (fee.  Sect.  I. 

Such  liquor  as  they  have,  and  as  the  country  gives ; 

But  chiefly  two,  one  called  Kwas,  whereby  the  Mousike  lives, 

Small  ware  and  waterlike,  but  somewhat  tart  in  taste. 

The  rest  is  mead  of  home-made,  wherewith  their  lips  they  baste. 

And  if  he  goe  unto  his  neighbour  as  a  guest, 

He  cares  for  little  meat,  if  so  his  drinke  be  of  the  Ijest." 

Hospitality  is  still,  as  then,  one  of  the  chief  virtues  of  the  Russian 
people. 

10. — Climate,  Clothing,  &c. 

The  suhjoined  Table  of  the  mean  temperature  at  various  places  in  Russia, 
by  Fahrenheit,  will  give  the  traveller  an  idea  of  the  climate  of  Jiussia ; — 


Russia. 


11. — Sanitary  Peculiarities, 


57 


Annual 


Winter. 


Summer. 


]\Ican  Temperature. 

St.  Petersburg 

+  :58-7 

Moscow 

+  39-6 

Ilelsingfois.. 

+  38-7 

Kid    ..      .. 

+  44-4 
+  49-3 

Odessa 

Tiflis  .. 

+  55-2 
+  33-3 

Archangel  .. 

Irkutsk 

+  31-1 

Yakutsk 

+  11-1 

Dec    Jan.  Feb.        June.    July.    August. 
+  18-3 

+  14-7  

+  '20-5  


4-  22-5 
+  25-2 
+  35-6 
+     9-3 


-  1- 

-  37' 


+  60 

•6 

+ 

G4 

•0 

+ 

59 

•0 

+ 

65 

3 

+  70- 

7 

+ 

73- 

9 

+ 

57 

•7 

+ 

61 

•5 

+ 

57- 

9 

The  winter  season  sets  in  at  St.  Petersburg  about  the  beginning  of  Novem- 
ber, when  the  Neva  freezes,  to  ojjcu  again  about  the  end  of  April.  In  summer 
the  prevalent  winds  arc  from  the  W.,  S.W.,  and  N.E.,  and  in  winter  those 
from  the  S.W.,  S.,  and  S.E.  I'aradoxical  as  it  may  appear,  the  cold  is  in 
reality  much  less  felt  in  Russia  than  in  southern  countries.  The  houses 
are  adapted  to  resist  the  greatest  amount  of  frost,  and  are  even  too  warm. 
It  is  fallacious  to  sujipose  that  the  cold  is  ever  so  intense  at  Moscow  or  St. 
Petersburg  as  to  prevent  people  from  issuing  out  into  the  open  air.  Twenty- 
five  degrees  below  zero  of  Reaumur  *  is  a  very  pleasant  and  exhilarating  con- 
dition of  the  atmosphere  when  not  accompanied  by  wind.  Even  the  cold 
at  Yakutsk,  which  is  sometimes  twice  as  intense  as  that  of  St.  Petersburg 
or  Moscow,  is  quite  bearable,  for  it  is  seldom  accompanied  by  wind. 
Frostbites  may  be  avoided  by  taking  the  most  ordinary  precautions.  1'he 
ears  are  liable  to  freeze  if  long  exposed.  In  very  cold  weather  they  should 
be  occasionally  rubbed,  in  order  to  promote  the  circulation  of  the  blood. 
Snow  is  the  best  aj»])lication  in  cases  of  frostbite. 

The  climate  of  St.  Petersburg  is  more  variable  than  that  of  Moscow, 
owing  to  its  proximity  to  the  Gulf  of  Finland.  Rain  and  a  complete  thaw 
will  sometimes  suddenly  succeed  IS'^  of  Fahrenheit.  Travellers  in  winter 
should,  however,  take  no  notice  of  such  variations,  but  continue  to  wear 
their  fur  clothing.  Any  change  of  dress  in  winter  is  sure  to  produce  a 
violent  cold.  Cloaks  of  the  racoon  (Shuba)  are  mostly  worn.  They  may 
be  purchased  in  Germany  for  about  100  thalers,  but  their  quality  will  be 
found  inferior  to  those  of  Russia.  A  walking  coat  thickly  wadded,  and 
with  a  fur  collar,  will  be  found  very  useful.  Ladies  wear  cloaks  or  jackets 
wadded  \vith  eiderdown  or  lined  with  fox-skins.     A  sable  collar  and  mufl', 

*  A  degree  of  Reaumur  is  equivalent  to  about  2\  degrees  of  Fahrenheit,  or  rather  9°  F.=:4°  R. 


f 


and  a  small  round  hat  of  sable,  complete  the  winter  costume  of  a  lady. 
These  furs  should  be  purchased  at  St.  Petersburg  (at  Efimofs,  Gostinnoi 
Dvor),  where  they  will  be  found  much  cheaper  and  far  better  than  in 
England  or  in  Germany.  The  journey  to  St.  Petersburg  may  very  well  be 
made  by  ladies  throughout  winter  in  thickly  wadded  coats  or  cloaks  without 
fur  collars  or  culfs,  which  will  only  be  found  requisite  in  driving  or  walking. 
Boots  lined  with  fur  or  long  boots  of  felt  are  indispensable  to  both  sexes 
for  this  journey  in  winter. 

The  following  table  (taken  from  the  Academical  Almanach  of  St.  Peters- 
burg) will  assist  the  traveller  to  convert  degrees  of  Reaumur  into  their 
equivalents  by  Fahrenheit : — 


F.* 

R. 

F. 

R. 

F. 

R 

F. 

R. 

F. 

R. 

-40 

-32-0 

i 

1-  G 

-lG-9 

+28 

-    1-8 

+62 

+  13-3 

+  96 

+28-4 

38 

31-1 

4 

lG-0 

30 

0-9 

G4 

14-2 

98 

29-3 

3G 

30-2 

1      2 

15-1 

32 

0-0 

66 

15-1 

1     100 

30-2 

34 

29-3 

1       0 

14-2 

34 

+  0-9 

68 

160 

!     102 

31-1 

32 

28-4 

+  2 

13-3 

3G 

1-8 

70 

16-9  ! 

j     104 

32-0 

80 

27-G 

4 

12-4 

i     38 

2-7 

72 

17-8 

i     100 

32-9 

28 

26-7 

G 

11-G 

40 

36 

74 

18-7 

1     108 

33-8 

2G 

25-8 

8 

10-7 

42 

4-4 

76 

19-6 

110 

34-7 

24 

24-9 

10 

9-8 

44 

5-3 

78 

20-4 

120 

39-1 

22 

24-0 

12 

8-9 

4G 

6-2 

80 

21-3 

130 

43-6 

20 

23-1 

14 

8-0  i 

48 

71 

82 

22-2 

150 

52-4 

18 

22-2 

IG 

71 

50 

8-0 

84 

231 

170 

61-3 

IG 

21-3 

18 

G'2 

52 

8-9 

86 

24-0 

:    190 

70-2 

14 

20-4 

20 

5-3 

54 

9-8 

88 

24-9 

1     210 

79-1 

12 

19-6 

'     22 

4-4 

5G 

10-7 

90 

25-8 

i     212 

80-0 

10 

18-7 

24 

3-G 

5S 

116 

92 

20-7 

8 

17-8 

2G 

2-7 

GO 

12-4 

94 

27-6 

The  freeziug-poiut  of  Fahrenheit  is  32°  and  the  boilhig-poiut  is  represented  by  212°. 


11. — Sanitary  Peculiarities. 

The  most  common  disease  among  the  higher  and  middle  classes  in  Russia, 
and  one,  indeed,  from  which  few  families  are  exempt,  is  scrofula.  Con- 
sumption, on  the  other  hand,  is  far  less  prevalent  than  in  Great  Britain, 
although  most  of  the  causes  which  are  supposed  to  fiivour  the  development 
of  tubercle  may  be  detected  in  Russian  life ;  such  causes,  for  instance,  as 
wretched  ventilation,  and  sometimes  even  no  ventilation  at  all,  and  frequent 
changes  in  the  weather,  from  hot  to  cold,  and  from  dry  to  damp;  and, 
among  the  lower  classes,  an  insufficient  quantity  of  food,  and  an  excessive 
indulgence  in  intoxicating  drinks.  Scurvy  and  rickets  are  very  common 
diseases  among  the  lower  class  of  Russians  w^ho  live  in  towns.  Both  com- 
plaints are  the  results,  no  doubt,  of  want  of  food,  and  of  strict  observance 
of  the  Church  fasts,  the  sum  total  of  which  covers  nearly  five  months  out 
of  the  twelve,    Not  only  is  meat  forbidden,  but  all  products  of  the  animal 


58 


12.—Sport, 


Sect.  T. 


kingdom,  such  as  eggs,  milk,  cheese,  &'c.,  as  well.  The  jX)or,  therefore, 
liave  a  very  small  diet- table  to  choose  from,  and  it  is  these  who  observe 
the  fast  most  strictly.  If  it  were  not  for  the  acid  rye-bread  which  they 
eat,  and  the  sour  kvas  which  they  drink,  scurvy  would  jx?rhaps  be  more 
common  even  than  it  is  now.  Diarrlura  and  dysentery  are  very  ]>revalent, 
and  strangers  are  very  liable  to  sufler  from  either  of  those  diseases  in  llussia. 
Diarrhoea  generally  occurs  in  summer.  It  is  difficult  to  say  what  causes  it, 
and,  as  it  is  by  no  means  so  common  in  winter,  it  may  be  called  "  summer 
diarrhoea."  The  water  of  the  Neva  has  been  blamed  more  ]^crhaps  than  it 
deserves  to  be,  as  a  cause  of  diarrhoea ;  so  has  the  position  of  St.  Petersbuig; 
so  has  the  atmosphere  ;  and  so  also  have  the  vegetables.  'J'here  is  one  point, 
however,  u]ion  which  we  may  caution  travellers,  and  it  is  this :  not  to  eat 
too  many  verjtables  and  fruits  when  at  St.  Petersburg,  an<l  not  to  allow 
a  dinrrhffia  to  continue  long  without  sending  for  medical  advice,  llheu- 
matism  is  not  as  common  as  in  England,  neither  is  asthma.  We  have 
known  several  cases  of  people  who  were  martyrs  to  the  latter  disease 
in  England,  and  who  were  completely  cured  by  spending  a  winter  in 
Russia. 

Tlie  average  of  watery  vapour  in  the  atmosphere  is  87  per  cent,  in 
London,  and  80  jier  cent,  in  St.  Petersburg. 

From  the  statistics  of  Dr.  Karnovitch  it  api)ears  that  in  St.  Petersburg 
the  number  of  deaths  exceeds  the  number  of  l)irths.  From  1853  to  1858 
80,228  males  and  females  were  born,  and  116,201  died.  Hence  the 
nuniber  of  deaths,  in  excess  of  the  births,  was  29,973,  or  an  average  of 
GOOO  per   annum. 

N.P.  Travellers  afflicted  with  colds  will  find  relief  from  the  use  of  the 
Pussian  steam-bath.  These  baths  are  numerous  at  St.  Petersburg  and 
Moscow ;  they  are  inferior  in  comfort  and  appliances  to  the  modern  Turkish 
baths  of  London.  On  issuing  from  a  Russian  bath,  care  should  be  taken  to 
avoid  draughts  or  any  approach  of  cold  atmosphere. 

For  further  medical  information  vide  Rte.  1,  *  Hospitals  and  Medical 
Advice.* 


12. — Sport. 

There  is,  perhaps,  no  country  in  Eurojx}  which  offers  such  a  variety  of 
S|)ort  as  Russia,  and  the  traveller  may,  without  much  difiiculty,  obtain  a 
good  day's  shooting  in  the  summer,  or  participate  in  the  pleasures  and 
excitement  of  a  bear-hunt  in  the  winter,  within  a  comparatively  short 
distance  of  the  capital. 

In  the  immediate  neighbourhoal  of  St.  Petersburg  the  ground  is  all 
strictly  preserved,  either  by  private  clubs  or  by  the  Crown  ;  but  a 
drive  of  a  few  hours,  or  a  short  trip  by  rail,  will  give  the  sportsman  an 
unlimited  extent  of  moor  and  forest,  where  he  can  ransre  at  will.  He  must 
not,  however,  expect  to  make  large  "  bags ;"  from  5  to  10  brace  of  wood- 
game,  or  from  10  to  15  couple  of  snipe,  in  a  good  snipe  season,  is  about  the 
average  of  a  fair  day's  sliooting. 

The  shooting  season  commences  on  the  15th  (27th)  of  Jnly,  and  the 
game  to  be  found  in  all  the  noVuiern  forests  comprises  the  following 
birds ; — capercailzie,  black  game,  willow-grouse,  and  hazel-grouse,  or  (/eli- 


Russia. 


12,— Sport. 


59 


7iotte ;  and  on  many  of  the  tracts  of  cultivated  land  the  grey  or  common 
English  partridge.  These  last,  however,  are  not,  strictly'speaking,  indi- 
genous in  the  northern  provinces,  and  their  presence  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  St.  Petersburg  may  be  attributed  to  the  fact  that  many  of  the 
clubs  are  in  the  habit  of  procuring  these  birds  in  considerable  numbers 
from  Courland  and  elsewhere,  and  turning  them  out  in  the  spring. 

South  of  Moscow  the  quail  abounds,  and  the  bustard  is  still  found  on 
many  of  the  Steppes.  In  the  Caucasus  the  sportsman  will  find  plenty  of 
pheasants.  Of  migratory  birds,  besides  innumerable  kinds  of  wild-fowl,  we 
may  mention  the  woodcock,  great  or  double  snipe,  single  and  jack  snipe, 
golden  plover,  curlew,  corncrake,  &c.  &c. 

The  woodcock  arrives  early  in  spring,  and  considerable  numbers  remain 
and  breed  in  the  vicinity;  the  autumn  flights  arrive  about  the  end  of 
August,  or  first  days  of  September.  Legends  of  by-gone  days  tell  of 
wonderful  cock-shooting  at  no  great  distance  from  St.  Petersburg ;  but  four 
or  five  cocks  are  now  considered  a  very  good  day's  shooting.  Of  the  three 
species  of  snipe,  an  inconsiderable  number  stop  on  their  passage  northwards 
in  the  spring,  and  breed  ;  their  reapj^earance  in  the  autumn  is  very  uncer- 
tain. Some  seasons  there  is  capital  snipe-shooting,  and  from  15  to  30 
couple  of  snipe  to  a  single  gun  is  by  no  means  a  rare  occurrence ;  while 
sometimes  you  may  walk  all  day  without  a  shot.  The  double  snipe  arrives 
about  the  12th  (24tli)  of  August,  and  the  flights  continue  till  about 
the  7th  of  Sei)tember.  These  birds  are  very  shy  of  the  cold,  and  a  night's 
frost  drives  them  all  to  the  southward.  The  single  and  the  jack  are  rather 
later  in  their  arrival,  and  the  last-named  little  fellow  remams  until  the 
frost  is  sufficiently  severe  to  freeze  the  bogs  and  pools. 

Dogs. — The  best  dogs  for  the  rough  and  varied  shooting  in  Russia  are  setters, 
English-bred,  but  broken  in  the  country,  if  first-rate,  they  should  be  close 
rangers  in  the  woods,  and  wide  on  the  moors.  Many  dogs  will  leave  their 
*'  ix)int "  and  return  to  the  sportsman,  showing  by  their  movements  that  they 
liave  found  game,  and  then  bring  him  quietly  up  to  the  point.  This  is  an 
invaluable  quality,  as  much  of  the  shooting  is  in  thick  cover,  where  it  is 
impossible  to  see  your  dog  farther  than  a  few  paces.  By  the  middle  of 
August  the  capercailzie  and  black-game  are  very  difficult  of  approach,  and 
run  long  distances  before  tliey  rise,  generally  out  of  shot.  A  clever  dog 
will  sometimes  make  a  round  and  head  the  game  back  to  the  sportsman. 

A  pointer,  as  a  less  hardy  animal  than  the  setter,  will  often  not  face  the 
cold  water  on  the  moors  and  marshes,  while  his  legs,  unjn-otected,  like 
those  of  the  setter,  by  the  long  feathering  hair,  are  more  liable  to  injury  in 
ran<j;ing  over  the  rough  broken  ground. 

The  best  way  for  a  stranger  to  see  sport  is — having  first  ascertained  from 
some  fellow-sportsman  the  most  likely  localities  for  game — to  put  himself 
under  the  guidance  of  one  of  the  jieasant  Nimrods  of  the  district.  They 
are  all  capital  walkers,  and  generally  amusing  companions,  and  by  no  means 
despicable  shots. 

Baftuc-Shootiug. — By  the  end  of  September  all  shooting  with  dogs  is 
over  for  the  season,  the  capercailzie  and  black-game  have  retired  to  the 
thickest  woods,  the  willow-grouse  are  packed  and  defy  the  most  wary  dog, 
and  the  snipe  and  woodcock  have  all  left  for  warmer  climes.  Battue-shooting 
now  commences,  and  although  a  large  head  of  game  is  seldom  bagged,  there 
is  a  pleasant  variety  in  the  game  driven  forward,  and  a  wildness  in  the 

E  3 


GO 


12.— Sport. 


Sect.  I. 


Russia. 


12,— Sport. 


61 


vast  woods  and  moorland,  wliicli  possesses  a  charm  for  the  true  sports- 
man. Besides  the  birds  already  enumerated,  there  are  plenty  ot 
hares— the  white  hare,  which  frequents  the  woods  and  moors  and  weighs 
fiom  7  to  10  lbs. ;  the  red  hare  of  the  plains  and  cultivated  lands,  weighmg 
from  10  to  15  lbs.  Vulpecidism  is  not  here  considered  a  crnne,  and  many 
is  the  crallant  fox  who  has  fallen  before  the  deadly  barrel  m  a  battue  Ihc 
visitor^vill  have  little  difficulty  in  procuring  an  invitation  to  one  of  these 
shootin-  parties,  which  are  or.c^anized  at  most  of  the  clubs  once  a  week. 
The  number  of  beaters  generally  employed  is  from  80  to  100,  according  to 
the  extent  of  the  ground  to  be  beaten.  Fifty  head  of  game  to  ten  guns  is 
considered  a  very  good  day's  sport.  These  battues  continue  until  the  winter 
regularly  sets  in,  when  the  deep  snow  renders  it  impossible  for  the  beaters 
to'^get  over  the  ground.  ^ 

The  winter  shooting  comprises  bear,  wolt,  elk,  and  lynx.    ^ 
i?ears.->Bears  are  to  be  found  in  considerable  numbers  in  all  the  ex- 
tensive forests  in  the  North,  and  of  late  years  their  number  has  rather  been 
on  the  increase.    The  general  way  in  which  this  sport  is  lol  owed  is  this  :— 
as  soon  as  the  first  snow  falls,  peasants  start  from  tneir  vi  lages  in  search 
of  bear-tracks ;  as  soon  as  they  come  upon  traces  they  lollow  the  track 
until  they  know  by  the  numerous  turns  and  twists  which  Bruin  has  made 
that  he  is  thinking  of  choosing  some  snug  corner  for  his  winter  quarters; 
they  then  proceed  with  greater  caution,  and,  when  they  consider  that  tiie 
bear  is  not  very  far  oft',  they  leave  the  track  and  make  a  circle,  returning  to 
their  starting-place.     If  they  have  not  again  crossed  the  track  they  know 
that  the  bear  must  be  within  the  circle  ;  they  then  advance  a  little  further, 
when  they  a^ain  make  a  detour  as  before ;  and  thus  they  proceed,  gradually 
narrowinc^  the  circle  until  they  have  enclosed  the  bear  within  a  compara- 
tively small  circumference.    They  then  set  off  to  town  and  ofter  the  bear  to 
any  sportsman  whom  they  happen  to  know  ;  if  he  decides  uix)n  taking  the 
bear  at  the  price  offered,  he  invites  some  of  his  friends  to  join  him  m  the 
hunt,  and  they  set  out,  either  by  rail  or  in  sleighs,  as  the  case  may  be  to 
the  villa^^e  nearest  the  spot  where  the  bear  is.  Beaters  are  then  collected,  the 
number  varying  according  to  the  extent  of  the  circle ;  they  arc  placed  in  a 
semicircle,  while  the  sportsmen  stand  in  a  line  at  distances  of  from  fifty  to 
eighty  yards  from  one  another,  according  to  the  number  of  guns  r.nd  the 
na'tui-e  of  the  ground.     The  bear,  roused  from  his  slumbers  by  the  shouts 
and  cries  of  the  peasants,  makes  a  bolt  for  it,  and  generally  comes  within 
shot  of  one  or  other  of  the  guns,  which  either  wounds,  kills,  or  misses  him, 
althouf-h  it  but  seldom  happens  that  a  single  shot  suffices  to  put  an  end  to 
Bruin's  existence.     When  wounded,  the  bear,  more  especially  li  it  is  a 
mother  with  cubs,  is  a  dangerous  customer,  and  it  reiiuires  both  nerve  and 
coura<^e  to  deal  successfully  with  so  formidable  an  antagonist.     The  sports- 
man, however,  is  generally  provided  with  two  guns,  and  a  spear  as  udermer 
ressort,  and  most  of  the  accidents  which  have  happened  have  arisen  either 
from  foolhardiness  or  a  want  of  nerve.     When  *'  ringing  "  a  bear,  as  it  is 
tenned,  should  the  peasant  when  making  his  ring  again  cross  the  track  o I 
the  bear,  he  knows  that  he  has  gone  out  of  the  circle,  and  accordingly 
instead  of  returning  to  his  starting-point,  he  follows  tlie  fresli  track,  and 
proceeds  as  before  described.     Many  sportsmen  are  not  satisfied  with  the 
uncertain  prospc>ct  of  a  shot  at  a  bear  held  out  by  a  joint  battue,  and  adopt 
another  plan,  for  the  success  of  which  it  is  necessary  that  the  i^asant  who 


/  1 


has  "  ringed  "  a  bear  should  wait  until  he  has  settled  himself  for  the  winter, 
and  theiT discover  the  spot  where  he  has  made  his  den;  this  accom- 
plished, he  gives  information  to  the  sportsman,  who  goes  to  the  place, 
either  alone  with  the  peasant,  or  accompanied  by  a  friend,  generally  taking 
with  him  three  or  four  rough  dogs,  who  answer  the  double  purpose  of 
rousing  the  bear  from  his  lair,  and  distracting  his  attention  from  the  sports- 
man. In  this  way  the  hunter  is  almost  sure  of  a  shot,  and  has  generally 
only  himself  to  blame  if  he  returns  empty-handed.  Some  of  the  most 
noted  and  successful  bear-hunters  make  a  regular  campaign  against  Bruin 
for  several  weeks  together,  camping  out  at  night  in  the  forest,  and  often 
pursuing  for  days  together  a  bear  who  has  escaped  the  bullet  when  started 
from  his  lair.  Tlie  best  season  of  the  year  for  this  sport  is  January  and 
February,  at  which  time  the  snow  is  in  a  favourable  condition  for  running 
on  snow-shoes,  without  which  accessories  the  hunter,  sinking  at  every  step 
to  the  middle  in  the  deep  snow,  would  be  powerless.  The  snow-shoes  are 
al)out  7  feet  long  and  6  inches  broad,  slightly  curved  at  the  point,  with  a 
foot-piece  in  the  middle,  to  which  are  attached  thongs  or  straps  for  securing 
the  snow-shoe  to  the  foot.  Some  of  them  are  covered  underneath  with  the 
skill  of  the  reindeer,  which  is  of  great  assistance  to  the  hunter  in  ascending 
liills.  In  the  absence  of  this  under-covering  of  skin,  the  hunter  provides 
himself  with  a  pole  about  8  feet  in  length,  with  a  curved  ixAni  of 
liorn  or  bone,  with  which  he  guides  himself  in  descending,  or  prevents 
his  feet  from  slipping  backwards  in  ascending  any  rising  ground.  It 
requires  considerable  practice  to  become  an  adept  in  the  art  of  running  on 
snow-shoes,  but  without  them  it  is  quite  impossible  to  attempt  to  follow 
game  in  the  winter  time. 

An  Englishman,  who  for  many  years  was  a  mighty  bear-hunter  in  Russia, 
was  in  the  habit  of  attacking  and  pursuing  these  animals  armed  only  with  a 
spear ;  and  although  many  were  the  deadly  struggles  that  he  had  face  to  face 
with  his  grim  opponent,  he  never  met  with  any  accident.  To  use  the  spear 
with  any  certainty  requires  great  dexterity  and  strength  of  arm,  with 
nerves  of  iron,  and  should  on  no  account  be  attempted  by  a  novice. 

The  Emi)eror  Alexander  11.  is  a  keen  and  experienced  six)rtsman,  and  pas- 
sionately fond  of  bear-shooting,  and  every  winter  adds  several  skins  to  his 
already  numerous  trophies.  ISears,  as  well  as  elk  and  wolves,  are  often 
shot  within  40  miles  of  St.  Petersburg. 

7^7y^.,_Klk-shootiug  is  conducted  much  in  the  same  way  as  the  ordinary 
l)attue  for  bear.  The  peasants,  however,  will  sometimes  follow  them  for 
days  for  the  chance  of  a  shot. 

Wolves.-ANoUQ^  are  shot  by  hunting  with  dogs,  by  an  ordinary  battue, 
and  sometimes  by  riding  down ;  but  this  requires  a  peculiar  condition  of 
the  snow,  as  well  as  rideable  ground.  They  are  to  be  found  in  consider- 
able numbers  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  St.  Petersburg,  as  well  au 
all  over  Russia,  and,  unless  hard  pressed  by  hunger  and  in  jmcks,  are 
seldom  dangerous. 

X2//iic.— The  lynx  is  occasionally  shot  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Petersburg, 
and  the  sixjcies  most  generally  found  is  the  Fdis  virgata  of  Nilssen.  They 
arc  a  very  wary  animal,  and  even  when  "  ringed  "  are  very  difficult  to  drive 
from  their  lurking-place. 

There  are  no  reindeer  in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  St.  Petersburg, 
but  they  abound  in  the  provinces  of  Archangel,  Olonetz,  &c.  &c. 


62 


13. — Sociehj. 


Sect.  I. 


Fox-hunting. — A  subscription  pack  of  foxhounds  is  kept  up  by  tlie 
English  community  at  St.  Petersburg.  The  kennels  are  about  12  m.  out 
of  town,  and  are  well  worth  seeing,  even  out  of  the  hunting  season,  which 
begins  towards  the  end  of  August  and  ends  about  the  middle  of  October, 
when  the  ground  begins  to  get  hard  and  slii»pery.  :Many  a  good  run  has 
been  had  with  the  "Goreloe  hounds,"  notwithstanding  the  marshy  and 
Mooded  nature  of  the  country.  A  fox-hunting  traveller  will  be  most 
cordially  welcomed  and  even  mounted,  provided  he  have  no  objection  to 
bestride  a  Cossack  pony — an  animal  which  is  however  well  adapted  to  the 
sort  of  work  expected  of  him  at  Goreloe. 

Fishing. — Finland  is  famous  for  its  streai^is  and  lakes  stocked  with  the 
finest  fish,  and  it  will  no  doubt  be  oue  day  as  much  visited  as  Norway  for 
the  purposes  of  sjwrt ;  for  descriptions  of  which  vido  "  Grand  Duchy  of 
Finland." 


13. — Society. 

Winter  is  the  season  for  gaieties  in  llussia.  Travellers  with  letters  of 
introduction  will  find  salons  of  St.  Petersburg  as  brilliant  as  those  of 
Paris,  but  they  are  unfortunately  not  many.  During  a  good  season 
dinner  parties,  receptions,  soirees,  and  balls,  occur  in  such  rapid  suc- 
cession, that  the  man  of  fashion  will  find  the  winter  too  short,  rather 
than  too  long.  There  is  no  dancing  during  the  forty  days  that  jn-eccde 
Easter.  Christmas  and  the  Carnival  are  the  gayest  periods.  Two  or  three 
court  balls  are  then  given,  and  "distinguished  strangers"  who  have  been 
presented  at  home  will  sometimes  receive  invitations.  Travellers  wishing 
to  be  presented  to  H.  I.  M.  must  apply  for  an  audience  through  H.  M.'s 
Embassy. 

It  is  necessary  to  wear  a  uniform  at  court.  French  is  the  language 
spoken  in  society,  but  English  is  generally  understood.  Strangers  are 
expected  to  make  the  first  call,  which  is  returned  either  in  person  or  by 
card.  In  leaving  cards  on  jx^rsons  who  are  not  at  home,  one  of  the  edges  of 
the  card  should  be  turned  up.  It  is  necessary  to  leave  a  card  next  day  on 
any  person  to  whom  the  stranger  may  have  been  introduced  at  a  party. 
Those  who  are  introduced  to  the  stranger  will  observe  the  same  politeness. 
Great  punctuality  is  exacted  at  St.  Petersburg  in  the  matter  of  leaving 
cards  after  entertainments  and  introductions.  Visiting  on  New  Year's  Day 
may  be  avoided  by  giving  a  small  contribution  to  the  charitable  institutions 
of  the  city,  which  will  be  duly  acknowledged  in  the  newspapers. 

No  presents  are  given  to  servants,  except  at  New  Year  and  Easter,  when 
the  porters  of  much- frequented  houses  will  offer  their  congratulations  in 
anticipation  of  a  donation  of  1  to  5  rubles,  according  to  the  number  of  visits 
paid.  The  hours  for  calling  are  3  to  5  p.m.  ;  dinner  parties  are  generally 
convened  for  G  or  G'30 ;  and  receptions  commence  at  about  10  p.m.,  and 
last  very  late.  Guests  are  expected  to  be  punctual  where  members  of  the 
Imperial  Family  are  invited.  Ladies  wishing  to  pass  a  "  season  "  at  St. 
Petersburg  should  recollect  that  Piussian  ladies  dress  very  richly,  though  in 
great  taste.  The  charges  of  dress-makers  at  St.  Petersburg  being  exorbitant, 
it  is  advisable  to  come  provided  with  all  the  necessary  toilettes.  At  balls, 
the  only  dance  in  which  the  stranger  will  not  at  first  bo  able  to  join  is  the 
Mazurka,  a  kind  of  cotillon  imported  from  Poland.     It  is  also  necessar}-  to 


Eussia. 


14. — SeaRonf^  for  Travelling* 


63 


observe  that  partners  are  not  engaged  for  the  whole  of  a  waltz  or  polka,  but 
only  for  a  turn. 

In  summer  there  are  generally  two  or  three  salons  out  of  town  open  for 
evening  receptions.  Ladies  can  wear  roles  montantes,  and  gentlemen  light 
trousers  and  white  waistcoats,  with  dress  coats.  The  same  costume  for 
dinner  parties  in  summer. 

Travellers  should  not  forget  that  a  Russian  invariably  takes  off  his  hat 
whenever  he  enters  an  apartment,  however  humble  ;  and  an  omission  to 
pay  this  respect  to  the  holy  image  suspended  in  the  corner  of  every  room 
will  immediately  be  noticed,  and  hurt  the  feelings  of  the  host  or  hostess. 
Top  coats  must'always  be  removed  on  entering  Paissian  houses,  as  a  ix)int 
of  etiquette  and  politeness. 


14. — Seasons  for  Travelling. 

Winter  is  naturaMy  the  most  appropriate  season  for  travelling  in  Paissia  ; 
for  the  prevalence  of  ice  and  snow  during  a  great  portion  of  the  year  is  the 
characteristic  feature  of  the  country.  The  mode  of  hfe  which  the  long  dark 
nights  of  winter  induce,  the  contrivances  of  man  to  overcome  the  obstacles 
l)resented  by  the  climate,  the  dormant  aspect  of  nature,  with  its  thick 
covering  of  dazzling  snow,  and  its  ice-bound  lakes  and  rivers,  now  bearing 
horses  and  the  heaviest  burdens  where  ships  floated  and  waves  rolled,^ 
perhaps  only  a  fortnight  before :— all  these  scenes  and  peculiar  phases  of 
life  render  a  journey  to  Russia  very  interesting  and  desirable  in  winter. 

But  we  cannot  expect  many  tourists  to  submit  to  the  hardships  of  travel- 
ling very  far  at  such  a  season  ;  nor  do  we  recommend  it  beyond  a  visit  to 
St.^Petel-sburg,  where  a  very  good  idea  of  a  Russian  winter  may  be  obtained, 
and  where  sight-seeing  and"  amusements  of  a  social  character  entail  no  dis- 
comfort. Moscow  might,  indeed,  in  winter  disaj^point  the  traveller  who 
seeks  the  picturesque,  and  should  therefore  be  visited  in  summer,  when  the 
sun  lights  up  with  an  extraordinary  brilliancy  the  striking  panorama  of  that 
city  of  churches  and  gilded  cupolas. 

As,  moreover,  the  great  mass  of  tourists  only  visit  the  Contment  durmg 
the  months  of  sumnicr,  our  counsel  in  the  matter  of  travelling  in  Russia 
is  scarcely  needed  ;  but  as,  on  the  other  hand,  there  are  many  who  can  dis- 
pose of  their  time  at  all  seasons,  we  may  as  well  summarise  our  advice  and 
our  exjierience  as  follows.  i     •  •      i 

1.  Summer.— Proceed  by  steamer  or  yacht  to  the  Baltic,  and  visit  the 
towns  on  the  coast  of  Finland.  Spend  a  week  at  St.  Petersburg,  in  seeing 
the  churches,  art  collections,  and  other  sights.  Go  to  Moscow  for  a  week, 
which  will  be  fully  occupied  in  viewing  thoroughly  all  the  places  and 
objects  described  in  Route  6.  Novgorod  the  Great  and  the  monastery  of 
the  New  Jerusalem  may  be  visited  on  the  way  by  those  who  can  spare 
three  more  days.  If  at  the  proper  season  (middle  of  August),  the  fair  of 
Nijni  should  be  seen.  The  voyage  down  the  A'olga  and  across  the  Caspian, 
the  tour  in  the  Crimea,  the  journeys  to  Pekin  and  Teheran,  should  also 
only  be  performed  in  summer.  From  St.  Petersburg  return  overland,  by 
way  of  Poland. 

Travellers  are  attracted  to  Warsaw  principally  by  political  sympathies, 
or  by  a  desire  to  see  a  country  which  has  occupied  so  much  of  the  attention 


64 


15. — 'Balhiwjs  and  Principal  Bouics. 


Sect.  I. 


of  the  statesmen  of  Europe.    It  may  be  visited  indifferently,   either  in 
winter  or  summer,  on  tlie  way  to  or  from  St.  Petersburg. 

2.  WiNTER.^Travellers  should  visit  St.  Petersburg;  specially  in  winter, 
with  the  object  of  seeing  lUissia  in  her  natural  garb.  The  collections  of  the 
Hermitage,  the  exhilarating  sports,  the  ra})id  sleighing,  and  the  gay  life  of 
the  great  capital  of  the  North,  will  afford  much  enjoyment,  and  amply  re- 
compense the  time  sx)ent,  and  the  somewhat  heavy  expenses  which  such  a 
trip  will  entail. 


ROUTES. 


15. — IiAILWAYS  AND    PRINCIPAL   liOUTES. 

Ptailways  are  being  so  rapidly  pushed  on  in  Russia  in  various  directions 
that  it  is  as  yet  impossible  to  reduce  travelling  in  that  conntry  to  any 
system.    The  tourist's  course  must  for  some  time  continue  to  Ix'  zigzag  and 
erratic,  for  a  methodic  route  traced  to-day  would  probably  not  be  available 
for  more  than  six  months  after.   The  accompanying  map  will  show  the  prin- 
cipal directions  which  the  railways  are  taking,  the  line  of  most  importance 
to  tourists  being  that  which  will  connect  the  Crimea  with  Moscow  and 
St.  Petersburg.     Until  tliat  line  is  opened  throughout  its  entire  length, 
few  travellers  for  pleasure  will  go  beyond  Moscow  or  Nijni.     Two  years 
hence  (when  a  new  edition  of  this  Handbook  will  probably  become  neces- 
sary) Moscow  will  not  be,  as  at  present,  the  Ultima  ThnU  of  the  great 
majority  of  travellers.     It  will  only  be  visited  en  route  from  or  to  the 
Crimea.     In  the  mean  wliile  it  may  be  stated  generally,  for  the  encourage- 
ment of  travellers,  that  the  Pussian  railways  are  the  most  comfortable  in 
Europe,     On  the  line  between  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow  the  traveller 
may  regularly  go  to  bed  in  a  sleeping  compartment;  he  may  ask  for  a 
table  and  play  at  cards;  and  he  may  even  make  his  morning  ablutions  in 
the  train.     The  stoppages  are  rather  too  frequent  to  please  the  impatient 
traveller,  but  on  such  long  journeys  it  is  frequently  very  refreshing  to  be 
able  to  stretch  one's  legs  even  for  five  minutes  at  a  station. 

Uailway  travelling  being  somewhat  new  to  the  Russian  people,  the  tra- 
veller will  sometimes  be  surprised  to  see  a  certain  amount  of  disorder  in  the 
talking  and  keeping  of  seats.  On  entering  a  train  all  the  seats  will  at  first 
appear  to  be  occupied,  but  an  application  to  the  station-master  will  soon 
cause  a  removal  of  the  cloaks,  bedding,  &c.,  with  which  the  carriage  is 
packed.  However,  these  artifices  are  not  peculiar  to  Ptussia  alone.  As  a 
rule,  the  traveller  will  find  every  comfort  and  civility  on  the  lines  of  rail- 
way, &c.,  described  in  the  following  pages,  where  it  is  to  be  hoi)ed  sufficient 
inlbrmation  will  be  found  to  render  the  journey  interesting.  The  words 
and  dialogues  given  in  the  "  Vocabulary  "  have  been  found  amply  suflicient 
to  enable  the  tourist  to  reach  Astrakhan  without* any  previous  knowledge 
whatever  of  the  Russian  language. 

The  arrangement  of  skeleton  routes  and  systematic  tours  must  be  re- 
served for  the  next  edition. 


[The  names  of  places  are  printed  in  italics  only  in  those  routes  where  the  places  are  descnbed.] 


Notice. — A  Railway  Guide  for  Russia,  or  '  Ukazatel  Puteshestviya,'  is 
published  at  St.  Petersburg  by  ]\Iessrs.  F.  P>.  Froom  and  Co.,  in  the 
Russian  language  (with  the  headings  of  the  Tables  in  English),  and  may 
be  purchased  for  25  c.  at  all  the  principal  stations. 


ROI'TE  PAGE 

1.  London  to  St.  rdorsbnrg,  over- 

land, via   Berlin,   Kowno, 
Wilna,  ixnd  rsliof.     ..      ..     C5 

2.  London  to  St.  Petersburg,  by 

Scfif  \i\x  Cromtadt     ..      ..   157 

3.  London  to  St.  Petersburg,  via 

ArchdiKiel 157 

4.  BerVm  to  iieval,  hy  Rifja,  Dor- 

pat,  &c 1C3 

5.  St.    Petersburg  to    Novgorod 

the  Great.    '. 17o 


170 
217 


ROUTE  TAGE 

G.  St.  Petersburg  to  Moscow     . . 

7.  Moscow   to    Troitsa   Monas- 

tery (Troitskaya  -  Sergieva 
Lavra)        

8.  Moscow    to  Nijni  Novgorod^ 

with  branch  line  to  Slmya 
and   Ivanovo,   and   excur- 
sion up  the  Oka  to  Muvom^ 
Elatma,  and  Kasimof 
0.  Volga:  TwcT  to  Astral-Jtau  .. 


220 

228 


ROUTE  1. 

LONDON  TO  ST,  PETERSBURG,  OVERLAND, 
VIA  BERLIN,  KOWNO,  WILNA,  AND  PSKOF. 

By  travelling  without  intermission, 

St.   Petersburg  can   be   reached  from 

London  in  3J  days. 

Through    tickets    from     Charing- 

cross  to  St.  Petersburg,  available  for 

30   days,   and  enabling  travellers  to 

\\ !  stop    at     the     i)rincipal    continental 

I  '  towns  on  the  route,  are  issued  at  the 

following  rates: — 

fr.    c. 

1st  class  via  Ostcnd     355  10* 

Ditto  via  Calais 351)  CO 

Mixed    tlclcet    (2nd    class    between 
Cologne  and  St.  Petersburg)— 

via  Ostend 2S3  30 

via  Calais 287  20 

*  Those  rates  vary  slightly  every  week,  ac- 
cording to  the  rise  or  fall  of  the  exchanges. 


Each  passenger  is  allowed  60  lbs.  of  luggage 
free  of  charge. 

As  the  Russian  2nd  class  carriages  are  not 
equal  to  those  on  the  German  lines,  the  English 
or  American  traveller,  witli  a  mixed  ticlvct,  is 
recommended  to  pay  at  Wkrzbolow  the  differ- 
ence to  St.  Petersburg  lx;twcen  1st  and  2nd 
class. 

The  route  from  London  to  Berlin  and 
Konigsberg  is  described  in  Handljook 
of  North  Germany. 

The  journey  is  broken  at  Berlin, 
where  travellers  may  remain  12  hrs, 
or  go  through.  In  case  of  fatigue,  a 
night  may  be  passed  at  Konigsberg  or 
at  Eydkuhnen,  on  the  Prussian  fron- 
tier. The  carriages  throughout  are 
comfortable  and  roomy,  and  present 
focilities  for  sleeping.  Buffets  fre- 
quent and  good^  Money  can  be 
changed  either  at  Eydkuhnen  (the 
last  Prussian  station),  or  at  Wierzbo- 
low,  where  the  exchange  of  the  day  is 
given. 

500  ra.  from  St.  Petersburg,  at  Wir- 


(jG 


Haute  1. — Kowno. 


Sect.  T. 


bailen  (or  Wierzbolow),  passports  and 
lu.i2:gage  are  examined.  Porters  ehar<?c 
5  copecks  for  every  parcel  they  carry. 
Good  biiftet  kept  by  a  Frenchman, 
and  plenty  of  time  for  refreshment. 
The  iirst  4  stations  beyond  are,  like 
Wirballen,  in  tlie  kinj,^dom  of  Poland, 
and  the  train  only  enters  Russia  at 

506  m.  Kowno.  Cliief  town  of  pro- 
vince, at  the  confluence  of  the  Vilia 
and  Niemen.  Pop.  24,000.  On  the 
23rd  June,  1812,  the  French  army 
crossed  the  Niemen,  near  Kowno,  on 
their  advance  to  Moscow,  and  some 
rising  ground  on  the  opposite  bank  is 
still  called  "Napoleon's  Hill."  The 
town  was  occupied  by  a  large  corps 
d'armee,  and  suffered  considerably. 
The  remnants  of  tlie  army  recrossed 
the  river  at  the  same  sj>ot  on  the  13th 
December,  in  a  very  bad  state  of  disci- 
pline. In  tlie  centre  of  tlie  market- 
place, in  front  of  the  town-hall  and 
barracks  (established  in  an  ancient 
I'olish  ch.),  is  a  monument  commemo- 
rative of  the  retreat,  and  bearing  the 
following  inscription  in  Pussian  :— 
"In  1812  Russia  was  invaded  by  an 
army  numbering  700,000  men.  The 
army  recros.sed  the  frontier  numbering 
70,000." 

Kowno  formed  part  of  the  ancient 
Duchy  of  Lithuania,  now  called  one  of 
the  N.W.  provinces  of  Russia,  whose 
history  will  be  read  at  Wilna.  The 
scenery  around  is  mountainous  and 
wooded.  In  the  days  of  paganism  this 
site  was  of  great  repute  as  tlie  residence 
of  several  mythological  divinities.  The  | 
town  is  supposed  to  have  been  founded 
in  the  early  part  of  the  lltli  centy. 
In  the  14th  and  15th  cents,  the  castle 
of  Kowno  played  an  inii)ortaiit  part  in 
the  history  of  Lithuania.  It  was  fre- 
quently attacked  by  the  Teutonic 
Knights;  but  in  1400  Vitovt,  Grand 
Duke  of  Lithuania,  ordered  it  to  be 
blown  up,  in  order  that  it  might  not 
fall  into  other  hands.  After  that 
event,  which  took  from  the  town  its 
military  importance,  Kowno  became 
gradually  a  centre  of  trade,  particu- 
larly after  1581,  when  it  was  made 
the  seat  of  a   custom-house   for    all 


goods  exported  out  of  Poland.  The 
establishment  of  an  English  Factory 
at  Kowno  in  the  middle  ages  is  like- 
wise a  proof  of  its  great  commercial 
importance.  Subsequent  religious  di.s- 
sensions  reduced  the  inhabitants  to 
such  extreme  poverty  that  in  1G54 
they  were  released  from  the  obligation 
of  paying  taxes.  In  1055  Kowno  was 
burnt  and  jjillaged  by  the  Russians,' 
who  occupied  this  part  of  the  country 
until  1G61,  and  into  whose  hands  the 
town  fell  definitively  in  1705.  A 
fire  destroyed  \  of  the  town  in  1808  ; 
and  in  1812  it  was  devastated  and 
pillaged  by  the  French.  There  are 
several  xjld  churches  still  extant ;  that 
dedicated  to  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul, 
in  the  15th  centy.,  being  the  largest 
Roman  Cath.  ch.  in  Litiiuania.  Tho 
church  of  St.  George  was  built  in 
1471,  and  the  chapel  dedicated  to  St. 
Gertrude  existed  in  1503. 

Five  small  stations  beyond  is 

Wilna  Stat.,  441  m.  from  St.  P. 
Pop.  58,000.  JIoteL—UCitQl  de  I'Europe, 
recommended.  Chief  town  of  tho 
ancient  independent  Duchy  of  Lithu- 
ania, connected  with  I'oland  in  1380, 
when  its  Duke,  Jagellon,  espoused 
Hedwiga,  Queen  of  Poland.  Tho 
dynastic  union  of  the  two  countries 
imparted  the  .strength  which  they  re- 
quired in  order  to  repel  the  invasions 
of  the  Teutonic  Knights,  to  arrest  the 
incursions  of  the  Tartars,  and  to  keep 
the  Dukes  of  IMoscow  within  the 
limits  of  their  territory.  The  Union, 
commenced  by  the  Convention  of 
Wilna,  1401,  b<'came  organic  two  cen- 
turies later  by  an  Act  i)a.ssed  at  a 
Common  Diet  held  at  Lublin  in  1500. 
The  history  of  Lithuania  remained 
that  of  the  kingdom  of  Poland  until 
the  Third  Partition  in  1795,  when  it 
was  incorjx)rated  with  Russia.  Divided 
later  into  the  provinces  of  Wilna,  Grod- 
no, Kowno,  and  Minsk.  Lithuania 
now  constitutes,  together  with  the 
proviiicesof  Mohilef  and  Witebsk  (also 
called  White  Russia,  and  detached 
from  Poland  in  1772),  the  N.W.  pro- 
vinces of  the  Russian  empire,  in- 
habited by  the  following  races  : — 


Russia. 


JRoufe  1. —  Wihia, 


67 


1.  The  dominating  elements : — 

a.  Poles,  represented  bj'  the  nobi- 

litv,  the  Catholic  clergy,  and 

the  inliabitants  of  towns       . .       580,000 

b.  Great  Russians  or  Moscovites, 

consisting  of  government  offi- 
cials, the  Russo-Greolc  clergy, 
and  colonies  of  Dissenters  from 
the  llusso-G reek  Church       ..       212,000 

2.  Rural  population  : — 

a.  White  Russians  (Slavonians) . .  2,157,000 

b.  Lithuanians,  Saraogitians,  and 

Letts 1,556,000 

3.  Jews         535,000 

4.  Other  elements      65,000 


Total 5, 105, (too 


Of  these  2i  millions  belong  to  the 
Russo-Greek,  and  2  millions  to  the 
Roman  Catholic  Confession.  A  very 
large  proix)rtion,  however,  of  the  popu- 
lation, considered  orthodox  by  Russian 
statists,  were,  before  their  forced  con- 
version in  1830,  Uniats,  or  worship- 
pers in  the  amalgamated  Churches  of 
the  Greek  and  Roman  faith.  The 
ITniat  denomination  had  been  intro- 
duced in  1590,  under  the  influence  of 
the  Jesuits,  with  a  view  to  Romanise 
the  Lithuanian  people,  then  of  the 
(ireek  Church.  The  converted  of 
1839,  then  about  2  millions  in  num- 
ber, preserve  to  this  day  a  leaning  to- 
wards the  United  Church,  which  is 
certainly  more  Catholic  and  Polish 
than  Orthodox  and  Russian. 

The  political  vicissitudes  to  which 
these  provinces  have  been  subjected, 
and  the  mixed  nature  of  their  jwitula- 
tion,  afibrd  a  fertile  and  disastrous 
source  of  disagreement  between  the 
Russians  and  the  Poles.  By  the 
former  they  are  regarded  and  governed 
as  Russians,  subject  .some  time  to 
Poland,  but  now  reincorporated  by 
conquest  and  treaties  of  partition ; 
while  the  Polish  element,  composed  of 
the  aristocracy,  landed  gentry,  and 
educated  classes  generally,  maintain 
that  the  N.W.  provinces  are  Polish, 
and,  as  such,  entitled  to  a  national 
administration.  The  imperial  Govern- 
ment ignore  tlie  claim,  and  deny  that 
the  Poles,  subjects  of  the  Emperor, 
entitled  to  certain  political  privileges 
by  the  Treaty  of  Vienna,  are  the  Poles 
of  the  N.W.  provinces.     The  claim 


is,  however,  unfortunately  asserted  at 
every  available  opportunity.  The  in- 
surrection of  1831  in  the  kingdom  of 
Poland  was  one  of  tliose  opportunities ; 
the  revolution  of  1862  at  Warsaw  was 
the  latest.  The  repressive  measures 
of  Gen.  Mouravieff  in  1863  and  1864 
were  dated  from  Wilna.  Here  the 
leaders  of  the  hopeless  insurrection 
in  the  provinces  were  confined,  tried, 
hung,  or  shot.  The  reduction  of  the 
population  in  the  N.W.  provinces  by 
deportation  to  distant  parts  of  the  em- 
pire is  variously  estimated  at  50,000 
to  100,000  souls.  Their  landed  ])ro- 
perty  has  since  been  transferred,  by 
confiscation  and  forced  sale,  to  native 
Russians. 

The  town  of  Wilna  lies  in  a  hollow 
at  the  foot  of  several  hills  which  rise 
to  some  height  on  the  E.,  8.,  and  AV. 
The  Vilia  river  runsout  at  the  northern 
extremity  of  the  hollow,  and,  winding 
through  decj)  and  intricate  ravines, 
clothed  with  foliage  of  the  fir,  the  birch, 
and  the  lime,  presents  a  most  pictu- 
resque and  smiling  panorama,  little  in 
keeping  with  the  stern  deeds  of  retri- 
bution which  have  made  Wilna  so 
fomous.  Wilna  is  supposed  to  have 
existed  in  the  12th  centy.,  and  was  the 
capital  of  Lithuania  in  the  early  part 
of  the  14th  centy.,  when  its  population 
was  still  i)agan.  A  perpetual  fire  was 
kept  burning  at  the  foot  of  the  hill 
which  Gedemin  crowned  with  a  castle 
in  1323.  The  remains  of  the  old 
castle,  with  an  octangular  tower  of 
red  brick,  arc  still  seen  commanding 
the  town,  in  pleasing  contrast  with  the 
verdure  around.  A  famine  destroyed 
more  than  30,000  inliab.  in  1710,  and 
in  1715  the  town  was  almost  entirely 
burnt  down. 

The  house  of  the  Governor-General 
was  formerly  the  Episcopal  Palace,  and 
the  ijresent  post-office  was  the  resi- 
dence of  Cardinal  Radziwil.  The 
churches  will  repay  a  visit ;  the  most 
ancient  being  the  Cathedral  of  St. 
Stanislaus,  built  in  1387,  and  the 
ch.  of  the  Assumption,  founded  in 
1364.  They  possess  considerable  ar- 
chitectural merit,  and  among  their 
monmuents  will    be   foimd  those  of 


68 


Boiite  1 . — Duncihurg — Ostrof, 


Sect.  I. 


several  families  whose  names  are  fa- 
miliar to  all  readers  of  I'olish  history. 
The  University,  established  in  1803, 
was  suppressed  in  1832. 

Wilna  was  occupied  by  the  French 
army  on  the  28th  Juno.  1812.  It  had 
been  evacuated  by  the  Kussians  durnij]; 
the  niij^ht.  The  Emperor  NapolecMi 
occupied  in  tlio  Episcopal  Palace  the 
rooms  which  the  Emperor  Alexander 
had  left  tlie  previous  day.  Sir  Kobert 
Wilson's  Memoirs  give  interesting  de- 
tails about  Wilna.  Tyrconnel,  his 
aide-de-camp,  lies  buried  here. 

The  main  line  runs  hence  to  War- 
saw, biit  a  branch  turns  otf  at  Land- 
warowo  (the  next  station  after  Wilna), 
for  the  Prussian  frontier. 

3GG  m.  Swentsiany,  Buffet.  Town 
of  4000  Inhab.  on  the  western  Dwina. 

331  m.  Dlinalmrq,  Buf.  Town  of 
27,000  Inhab.  in  province  of  Witibsk, 
formerly  known  as  White  Russia. 
Diinaburg  has  a  first-class  fortress, 
built  in  1S25,  on  tlie  site  of  a  fortifi- 
cation raised  l)y  Stephen  Batory  in 
lo82.  A  tete-de-pont  commands  the 
iloating  bridge  over  the  river  Dvina. 
John  the  Terrible  of  Russia  took  the 
town  in  1.577,  after  which  it  was  oc- 
cupied by  the  Swedes  in  IGOO.  Tlie 
Russians  retook  it  in  1G56,  ])ut  re- 
turned it  two  years  later  to  the  Poles, 
who  in  their  turn  were  compelled  to 
cede  it  finally  to  the  Russians  in 
1772. 

The  fortress  is  now  the  most  im- 
portant strategical  point  on  the  Dvina 
line  of  defence.  As  a  jdace  of  trade, 
Diinaburg  holds  a  high  position  among 
the  western  towns  of  Russia.  Large 
(juantities  of  flax,  hemp,  tallow,  and 
timber  are  collected  here  for  shipment 
or  carriage  to  Riga.  The  opening  of 
the  railway  to  Orel  will  still  furtlier 
increase  the  traflic  through  Diina- 
burg. 

As  yet  there  are  no  hotels  at  Diina- 
burg where  travellers  bound  from 
Berlin  to  Moscow  via  AVitebsk  and 
Orel  can  find  comfortable  quarters. 
Information  respecting  the  inns  of 
the  country  should  be  obtained  from 
t  he  station-master. 


There  is  a  branch  line  from  Diina- 
burg to  Riga  (see  Rte.  4),  and  another 
to  Orel  (Rte.  12). 

330  m.  Antonopol,  Buf. 

230  m.  Korsofka,  Buf. 

204  m.  Ostrof,  Buf.  To\vn  of  2500 
Inhab.,  in  province  of  Pskof,  on  river 
Veliki.  The  town  takes  its  name, 
which  signifies  '*  island,"  from  an 
island  formed  by  the  Veliki,  and  on 
wliieh  a  fortrt^ss  existed  in  the  14th 
centy.  Three  of  the  towers,  built  of 
a  grey  flagstone  and  rod  limestone, 
are  still  to  bo  seen,  together  with  tho 
church  of  St.  Xichohis  in  the  centre 
of  tlio  island,  built  in  1582.  Ostrof  was 
burut  by  tlic  Lithuanians  in  1501,  wlion 
4000  iniiab.  i)orished  ;  and  in  1581  it 
was  taken  by  Stephen  Batory.  A  largo 
trade  is  carried  on  in  flax,  carried 
hence  to  Riga,  Narva,  and  St.  Poh-rs- 
burg.  Travellers  sometimes  telegraph 
from  'vere  to  the  hotel  at  St.  Peters- 
burg for  a  carriage. 

171  m.  Fslwf,  Buf.  Chief  town  of 
province  of  same  name,  15,000  Inhab. 
This  was  anciently  one  of  the  three 
reiniblics  of  Russia  ;  the  others  being 
Novgorod  the  Great,  and  Khlynof 
(now  Viatka).  Tradition  points  to  tho 
year  975  as  the  date  of  its  foundation. 
It  was,  like  Novgorod,  the  seat  of  a 
great  trade  with  Germany  in  tho 
earliest  times,  and  formed  i)art  of 
tho  Hanseatic  League.  The  wave  of 
European  civilization  and  commerce 
first  met  the  tide  of  Slavonic  barbarism 
at  this  point.  Commercial  prosix;rity 
introduced  jmlitical  freedom  and  much 
j)opular  turbulence.  The  citizens  of 
Pskof  elected  their  own  princes,  de- 
posed them  at  pleasure,  and  held  in- 
cessant Vecli^^  or  popular  coimcils 
almost  identical  with  the  Witenage- 
motes  of  the  Saxons.  The  assembly, 
convened  by  a  bell,  sat  on  an  elevated 
mound,  approached  by  steps,  and  on 
which  a  club  or  heavy  stick  was  set 
up,  emblematical  of  the  majesty  of 
the  law.  There  is  a  record  of  a  Veche 
at  Pskof  in  which  the  citizens  deli- 
berated in  their  shirts,  so  urgent  was 
the  danger  to  their  privileged  city. 


Russia. 


Itouie  1. — Pshof:  The  Kremlin, 


69 


This  form  of  government  was  retained, 
as  at  Novgorod  and  some  other  towns, 
even  during  the  Tartar  dominion,  but 
it  succumbed  at  last  to  the  autocracy 
established  by  John  III.  and  John  the 
Terrible,  who  incorporated  all  tho  petty 
principalities  of  Russia  with  the  Grand 
Duchy  of  Moscow.  Tho  liberties  of 
Pskof  survived  those  of  Novgorod 
32  years.  Taking  advantage  of  some 
factious  j)roceedings  at  tlie  Veche, 
John  the  Terrible  perfidiously  impri- 
soned the  boyars  and  citizens  who  had 
been  sent  to  do  him  homage  at  Nov- 
gorod, and  sent  an  envoy  to  the  Veche 
demanding  the  instant  submission  of 
tliat  body.  The  envoy  sat  down  on 
the  steps  of  the  Veche,  and  long 
waited  for  an  answer.  The  citizens 
could  not  speak  for  their  tears  and 
sobs,  and  asked  to  be  allowed  until 
the  morrow  for  reflection.  It  was  a 
most  dreadful  day  and  night  for  Pskof. 
•"Infants  at  the  breast,"  continues 
tlie  Chronicle,  "  were  the  only  ones  that 
did  not  cry  for  grief.  The  wailings  of 
the  people  were  heard  in  the  open 
street  and  in  every  house  :  they  em- 
braced each  other  as  if  their  last  hour 
had  come.  So  great  was  the  love  of 
the  citizens  for  their  ancient  liberties." 
I?ut  resistance  they  felt  to  be  useless  ; 
and  the  next  day,  the  13th  January, 
1510,  they  took  down  the  bell  of  the 
Veche  at  the  church  of  the  Holy  Tri- 
nity, and,  gazing  at  it,  "long  cried 
over  the  past  and  their  lost  freedom." 
Three  hundred  of  tlie  most  distin- 
guished families  were  thereupon  re- 
moved to  Muscovy,  and  replaced  by 
Muscovites. 

A  town  with  such  a  glorious  history 
is  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  It  stands 
at  a  distance  of  2  m.  from  the  rly.  stat. 
and  cannot,  therefore,  be  inspected 
during  the  15  or  20  minutes  which 
travellers  are  allowed  there  for  re- 
freshment. But  to  those  who  will 
hazard  the  discomfort  of  a  native  inn 
under  the  protection  of  a  guide,  we 
point  out  the  following  objects  of 
curiosity : — 

The  Kremlin,  of  which  the  stone 
walls  were  built  in  1323,  occupies  an 


elevation  200  fathoms  in  length,  and 
30  in  breadth.  It  faces  the  river 
Pskova  on  the  E.  and  N.,  and  the 
Velika  on  the  W.  Another  wall,  called 
Dovmont's  Wall,  constructed  in  the 
latter  part  of  the  13th  centy.,  springs 
from  the  southern  face  of  the  Kremlin 
and  forms  a  square,  on  which  once 
stood  the  castle  or  palace  of  the  Prince. 
There  is  now  but  one  ancient  building 
in  that  square,— a  house  of  stone, 
built  in  the  early  part  of  the  15tli 
centy.,  l)y  Macarius,  subsequently 
Metropolitan  of  all  Russia,  and  which 
was  the  residence  of  the  Archbishops 
of  Novgorod  when  they  visitt^d  Pskof, 
placed  under  their  ecclesiastical  ju- 
risdiction. The  huge  mass  of  the 
Cathedral  of  the  Trinity  occupies  nearly 
the  whole  of  the  interior  of  the  Krem- 
lin, The  original  ch.  on  that  site  is 
supposed  to  have  been  built  a.d.  957, 
by  Olga,  converted  to  Christianity  at 
Constantinople  two  years  previously. 
The  cathedral  became  thus  early  a 
centre  from  which  the  Christian  reli- 
gion w^as  diftused  among  the  pagan 
tribes  around.  The  ancient  ch.  was 
replaced  by  a  stone  edifice  in  1138. 
Dovmont,  a  Lithuanian  chief,  was  bap- 
tized in  it,  together  with  his  family  and 
followers,  in  12GG,  prior  to  his  election 
as  Prince  of  Pskof,  but  that  building 
only  lasted  till  1363.  A  third  cathe- 
dral was  built  on  its  foundation  in 
13G8,  and  lasted  long  enough  to  witness 
some  of  the  most  important  events  in 
the  history  of  the  town.  Within  its 
walls,  in  1510,  John  the  Terrible 
caused  the  citizens  to  swear  allegiance 
to  the  Grand  Duke  of  Moscow.  In 
1581  the  cathedral  was  besieged  and 
stormed  by  the  forces  of  Stephen  Ba- 
tory, who  was  repulsed  by  the  defend- 
ers of  the  city,  stimulated  to  valour 
and  enthusiasm  by  the  exhibition  of 
a  miraculous  image  of  the  Holy  Virgin. 
The  Pskovians  had  "  washed  tlie  whole 
floor  of  the  ch.  with  their  tears  "  be- 
fore the  danger  had  passed. 

The  present  Cathedral  was  built  on 
the  site  of  those  ancient  edifices  in 
1G82,  but  has  been  much  restored 
since,   especially   after  a  fire  which 


70 


Boute  1. — PsJcof:  The  Cathedral. 


Sect.  I. 


took  place  in  1770.  Its  style  is  Russo- 
liyzantian,  of  considerable  beauty. 
Some  of  the  images  of  saints  are  ancient 
and  curious,  and  the  traveller  will  be 
shown  numerous  relics.  The  most  in- 
teresting of  these  is  the  tomb  of  St. 
Vsevolod-Gabriel,  tlie  ejected  Prince 
of  Novgorod,  and  elected  ruler  of 
Pskof,  who  died  a.d.  1138,  after  leading 
a  life  of  great  virtue  and  sancity.  The 
Novgorodians  demanded  his  relics,  but 
the  coffin  would  not  be  moved,  evi- 
dently expressive  of  the  desire  of  the 
departed  prince  to  abide  with  his  faith- 
ful Pskovians.  Several  otlier  miracles 
are  attributed  to  liis  remains.  A  sword, 
with  tlie  inscription,  "  Honorem  meum 
nemini  daho,"  is  shown  as  having  be- 
longed to  Vsevolod,  who  was  as  warlike 
as  he  was  godly. 

Tiie  cross  wliich  St.  Olga  raised  at 
I\skof,  and  which  was  destroyed  by  fire 
in  1509,  is  represented  by  a  crucifix 
suspended  against  the  second  pillar  on 
the  right-hand  side  of  the  altar-screen. 
The  lamp  which  burns  in  front  of  it 
was  presented  by  tiie  Grand  Duke 
G^nstantine  Nicolaevitch  in  comme- 
moration of  the  birth  of  his  daughter. 

The  tomb  of  St.  Dorinont,  in  a  chai)el 
to  the  right  of  the  Ikonostas  or  altar- 
screen,  is  not  of  silver,  like  that  of 
St.  Vsevolod,  but  of  plain  oak.  It 
bears  an  inscription  recording  the  his- 
tory of  this  liitliuanian  prince,  who 
appears  to  have  assumed  tlie  name  of 
Timothy  at  his  baptism.  His  sword, 
frequently  wielded  in  defence  of  the 
city,  hangs  near  his  tomb.  It  was  held 
in  great  reverence  by  the  Pskovians, 
who  invested  their  princes  witli  it  at 
their  consecration  in  this  cathedral. 
Alongside  of  this  tomb  is  that  of  "  the 
sainted  Nicholas  Sales  the  Idiot,"  who 
saved  Pskof  from  the  fury  of  Jolm  the 
Terrible  in  the  following  manner: — 
Having  persuaded  the  citizens  to  pre- 
sent bread  and  salt  to  the  angry  Tsar 
immediately  after  mass,  he  rode  about 
on  a  stick  like  a  cliild,  constantly  re- 
peating "  Johnny,  Johnny,  eat  the 
bread  and  salt,  and  not  the  blood  of 
Christians."  The  Tsar  ordered  liim  to 
be  seized,  but  the  saint  suddenly 
vanished,    Struck  with  awe,  John  the 


Terrible,  entered  the  cathedral  with 
all  meekness,  and  was  met  by  the 
clergy  carrying  the  holy  crosses.  An- 
other version  is  tliat  Nicliolas  oflfered 
the  Tsar  a  piece  of  raw  meat.  "  I  am 
a  Christian,"  said  John  the  Terrible, 
"and  do  not  eat  meat  in  Lent."  "  But 
tliou  drinkest  the  blood  of  Christians," 
replied  the  saint,  while  he  exliorted 
the  Tsar  to  be  merciful.  The  tyrant, 
however,  only  listened  to  the  warning 
after  the  saint  liad  caused  liis  horse  to 
fall,  at  the  moment  the  bell  of  the 
cathedral  was  ordered  to  be  taken 
down. 

The  sacridy  contains  many  ecclesi- 
astical antiquities,  and  some  ancient 
seals  and  coins  of  Pskof. 

There  are  several  other  churches 
worthy  of  a  visit,  each  with  a  legend 
or  tradition  of  miracles  performed  to 
tlie  discomfiture  of  foreign  foes.  The 
interposition  of  saints  appears  to  have 
been  frequently  needed  by  the  good 
old  city.  The  small  chapel  opposite 
tlie  market  commemorates  the  victims 
of  an  insurrection  which  broke  out  in 
1650. 

Some  of  the  houses  are  of  ancient 
date;  that  occupied  by  the  "  Victualling 
Departutent "  once  belonged  to  the 
Pogankins,  a  race  of  merchant-princes 
now  extinct.  The  tiles  of  the  roof  are 
curious.  The  Trubinski  house  is  not 
as  perfect  a  specimen  of  ancient  Russian 
architecture  as  it  was  before  a  fire 
which  partially  consumed  it  in  185C. 
Peter  the  Great  visited  it. 

Travellers  should  cross  the  Pskof 
river  and  examine  the  churches  and  old 
buildings  in  the  suburbs.  Gustiivus 
Adolj^hus  besieged  Pskof  from  that 
side  in  1615.  There  are  several  mo- 
nasteries, rich  in  ecclesiastical  objects 
of  ancient  date,  beyond  the  Velika  river, 
A  village,  8  m.  up  the  latter  river,  and 
called  Vybutina,  was  the  birthplace  of 
St.  Olga.  The  fortified  monastery 
of  Pskof-Pecliersk,  celebiated  for  its 
catacombs  and  for  the  sieges  which  it 
has  sustained,  lies  about  20  m.  to  the 
W.  of  Pskof. 

Two  stations  beyond  Pskof  is 
Belaya,  139  m.,  Buffet, 


liussia. 


Houte  1. — Gaichina — St.  Petersburg. 


n 


85  m.  Luga,  Buff".;   chief  town  of 
district  in  province  of  St.  Petersburg. 

53  m.  Vivenskaya,  Buif. 

28  m.  Gatchina,  an  imperial  resi- 
dence, founded  by  Prince  Gregory 
Orlofi',  and  purchased  on  his  decease 
by  Catherine  II.,  who  presented  it  to 
her  son,  the  Grand  Duke  Paul.  The 
grounds  are  very  extensive  and  well 
laid  out,  but  somewhat  neglected,  since 
the  palace  is  rarely,  if  ever,  inhabited. 
It  was  built  by  Prince  G.  Orloff",  after 
a  plan  by  Rinaldi.  The  emperor  keeps  a 
kennel  there,  which  may  be  inspected 
on  application  to  the  Master  of  the 
Hounds.  Many  of  the  pictures  which 
the  palace  contained  have  been  re- 
moved to  the  Hermitage.  The  trout 
of  Gatchina,  caught  abundantly  in  the 
lakes  and  streams  by  which  the  park 
is  intersected,  appear  on  every  good 
Russian  table.  In  the  ch.  are  some 
relics  brought  from  Malta,  and  in  a 
building,  which  will  be  pointed  out 
as  the  Priory,  the  Knights  of  Malta 
were  wont  to  assemble  mider  the  pre- 
sidency of  their  Grand  Master,  the 
Emperor  Paul.  Travellers  who  have 
time  to  spare  should  make  this  a 
separate  excursion  under  the  guidance 
of  a  commissionaire. 


St.  Petersburg  Tersiints. 

JJofeh.—The  English  or  American 
traveller  who  prefers  home  comforts 
and  the  use  of  his  native  tongue  to  a 
foreign  mode  of  life  and  speech,  is 
strongly  recommended  to  the  board- 
ing-house kept  by  Miss  Benson,  No.  78, 
on  the  English  Quay  {Anglishaya 
Costinitsa .  Anglishnja Naherejna).  The 
apartments  are  quite  English  in  their 
neatness  and  cleanliness.  The  table- 
d'hote  is  well  loaded  with  substantial 
English  fare,  varied  with  dishes  taken 
from  the  "  Dhier  ii  la  Russe."  The 
charges  vary  from  rs.  3*50  to  rs.  4*50 
per  diem  for  bed  and  board.  The 
waiters  understand  English,  and  the 


worthy  and  obliging  proprietress  is 
ever  ready  to  assist  the  helpless  travel- 
ler with  her  knowledge  of  the  country 
and  its  language,  and  particularly 
with  information  respecting  the  sights 
of  the  capital.  A  commissionaire  in  at- 
tendance. 

The  other  class  of  tourists,  accus- 
tomed to  foreign  hotels,  and  who  can 
make  themselves  understood  in  French 
or  German,  should  ask  for  the  ''  Hotel 
de  Russie"  (or  Klce's  Hotel)  ("  Gosti- 
nitsa  Klay"),  on  the  Place  Michel,  in 
the  centre  of  the  town.    This  is  an 
old-established  house,  fashionably  fre- 
quented.    There  are  about  200  rooms, 
at  1  to  15  rs.  (Ss.  to  458.)  per  day.     A 
reduction  is  made  if  the  rooms  are 
taken  by  the  month.    Cold,  warm,  and 
shower-baths  on  the  premises,  as  well 
as  the  indispensable  tub.  The  traveller 
sliould  ask  for  the  apartments  down- 
stairs, recently  fitted  up.    Dinners  by 
a  French  cook  in  separate  rooms  at  1  r. 
to  1  r.  50  (3s.  to  48.  Gd.).    A  table- 
d'hote  at  5  o'clock,  1  r.  (3s.)   English, 
French,    and    American    newspapers 
kept.    Commissionaires  in  attendance. 
Another  hotel,  much  to  be  recom- 
mended for  its  cleanliness  and  cuisine, 
is  the  '*  Hotel  de  France,"  kept  by  L. 
Croissant,  and  situated  in  Great  Mor- 
skoy-street,   near  the  Winter  Palace. 
The   charge   for   apartments   is   from 
75  cop.  to  15  rs.  (2s.  3c?.  to  45s.).     All 
languages  spoken.     Baths  on  the  pre- 
mises. 

The  other  hotels  are  : — 
Hotel  Demouth,    near    the    Police 
Bridge,   close  to  "Nevsky    Perspec- 
tive," a  large  and  commodious  hotel, 
with  an  excellent  cuisine. 

Grand  Hotel,  Little  Morskoi -street. 
Recently  established,  and  therefore 
clean. 

Hotel  Bellevue,  on  "  Nevski  Per- 
spective.' Very  good,  and  well  re- 
commended. 

Hotel  d'Angleterre,  opposite  St. 
Isaacs,  also  very  good. 

An  omnibus  from  each  of  the  foreign 
hotels  meets  the  train. 

Vehicles. — A  crowd  of  conveyances 
of  every  description  will  be  found  at 


72 


Boiite  1. — St.  Petersburg. 


Sect.  I. 


the  station.  INIiss  Benson  will  send  a 
carriage  if  telegrapbed  to,  but  there 
is  no  difficulty  in  making  a  Kussian 
coachman  drive  to  tlie  addresses  given 
above.  Travellers  with  much  luggage, 
and  unwilling  to  enter  an  omnibus, 
should  secure  one  of  the  large  four- 
seated  carriages  driven  by  a  coachman 
in  Russian  dress,  leaving  the  price  to 
be  settled  at  the  hotel.  The  small, 
uncomfortable  drojkies  will  charge 
40  to  50  copecks.  For  sight-seeing 
or  business,  engage  a  carriage  at  the 
hotel.  The  charge  is  6  to  7  rs.  (18s. 
to  2l8.)  a  day,  to  any  hour  of  the 
night. 

Police  licgulafions. — The  i)rinoipal 
police  regulation,  to  which  the  traveller 
must  pay  careful  attention,  is  that  which 
relates  to  passports  {vide  chapter  on 
Passports).  Smoking  in  the  streets, 
which  was  once  absolutely  prohil^ited, 
is  now  i>ermitted,  except  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  palaces,on  wooden  bridges, 
&c.  Notices  to  that  eftect,  in  four 
languages,  will  bo  found  in  several 
parts  of  the  town. 

History  and  Topofjrajih/ofSt.  Peters- 
burg.— The  region  comprised  between 
Lake  Peipus  and  the  Narova  river  on 
the  one  side,  and  tlio  lake  of  Ladoga  on 
the  other,  was  anciently  called  Ingria, 
and  belonged  first  to  Novgorod,  then 
to  Moscow,  until  the  year  1G17,  when 
it  passed  to  tlie  Swedes,  and  it  was 
only  reconquered  by  Peter  the  Great 
in  1702,  who,  desiring  to  have  ''a 
window  looking  out  into  Europe,"  laid 
the  foundation  of  St.  Petersburg  in 
1703,  after  disi)ossessing  the  Swedes  of 
their  fort  and  townlet  of  Nyenschanz, 
on  the  Oklita.  The  Neva,  rising  in 
Lake  Ladoga,  flows  through  the  city. 
After  receiving  the  waters  of  the  Okhta 
river,  it  disembogues  in  the  Gulf  of  Fin- 
land, separating  into  many  branches 
and  forming  several  islands.  The  first 
branch  is  called  tlie  Great  Nevka,  and 
an  arm  of  the  latter  the  Little  Nevka. 
From  the  point  where  the  Nevka  rises 
the  river  bears  the  name  of  the  Great 
Neva,  in  distinction  to  the  second 
branch,  which  it  sends  oflf  to  the  N.W., 


called  the  Little  Neva.  Thus  the  Bay 
of  Cronstadt  receives  the  waters  of  the 
Neva  by  four  channels  of  considerable 
volume  and  breadth,  whicli  are  further 
distributed  through  the  city  by  4  canals. 
{Vide  Finn). 

In  the  spring  of  1703  Peter  the 
Great  caused  a  great  number  of 
liussian  and  Finnish  peasants  to  be 
concentrated  on  the  banks  of  the  Neva 
for  the  construction  of  St.  Petersburg, 
and  soon  after  40,000  mc^n  were  drafted 
annually  for  several  years  from  the 
most  distant  jiarts  of  the  empire,  the 
Tsar  superintending  the  works  in  per- 
son, and  dwelling  in  a  small  cottjige, 
still  shown.  The  lir.st  private  houses 
were  built  in  1704  on  tlic  N.  side  of 
the  river,  in  a  part  of  the  town  now 
called  Old  l\'t(^rsl)urg.  Elegant  houses 
began  to  be  erected  l)y  foreigners  in  1705 
in  a  street  still  called  the  Millionaya, 
where  the;  Hermitage  at  present  stands. 
The  largo  island  between  the  Great 
and  Little  Neva  was  soon  after  in- 
habited by  the  dependants  of  Prince 
MenschikofF,  to  wliom  Peter  tlie  Great 
gave  it.  It  was  called  Yassili  Ostroft', 
or  Basil's  Island,  after  the  name  of 
the  commander  of  a  battery  placed  at 
the  E.  extremity  of  the  island.  Here 
Prince  Menschikoif  erected  a  palace, 
now  a  militiiry  school  (at  tlie  corner  of 
the  "1st  Line  ") ;  and  here  also  rose  the 
"  Frencli  Colony,"  a  group  of  pretty 
houses  in  which  Peter  located  hia 
foreign  workmen,  but  of  which  no 
traces  remain.  The  first  brick  house 
was  built  in  1710,  by  the  chancellor, 
Count  Golofkin,  at  tlie  spot  when;  the 
Nevka  brandies  olf  from  tlie  Neva. 
The  Admiralty  began  to  be  recon- 
structed in  brick  in  171 1.  The  palaces 
of  the  Nobles,  originally  of  wood,  were 
soon  after  replaced  by  more  durable 
and  elegant  buildings.  Prince  Men- 
schikoff  erected  another  residence  ou 
the  site  of  the  present  Senate  House. 
The  marshy  nature  of  the  soil  presented 
obstacles  which  were  only  to  be  van- 
quished by  the  most  indomitable 
energy  and  perseverance.  For  many 
years,  every  cart  and  each  vessel  entiT- 
ing  the  new  town  was  bound  to  bring 
a  certain  number  of  stones,  which  were 


EdV*'WeILer 


London ,  John  Murray,  Albemarle  Street . 


Russia. 


Moute  1. — St.  Petershurg. 


73 


used  in  paving  streets.  On  the  death 
of  Peter  the  construction  of  St.  Peters- 
burg relaxed  in  vigour,  although 
Catherine  I.  continued  to  inhabit  the 
city.  Pet^r  II.  preferred  Moscow,  and 
died  there.  The  Emi)ress  Anne  fixed 
her  residence  at  St.  Petersburg,  and 
occupied  the  i)alace  of  Count  Apraxin, 
on  tlio  site  of  tiu-  present  "Winter 
Palace.  INIany  l)uildings  were  erected 
in  her  reign.  The  elegant  spire  of  the 
Admiralty  was  tlien  added.  The  soil 
was  raised  in  places  wliere  the  river 
threat^'ued  to  overwhelm  it,  and  tlie 
streets  assumed  a  more  regular  aspect. 
Tlienceforward  the  court  of  Russia 
settled  permanently  at  St.  Petersburg. 
Successive  sovereigns  erected  monu- 
ments, and  strove  to  embellish  their 
new  capital.  Tlie  Empress  Catherine 
caused  a  quay  of ''granite  to  be  built 
along  the  left  bank  of  the  rai)id  Neva, 
which  did  not, however,  save  tlie  capital 
from  inundations  in  1728,  1729,  173."), 
1740,  1752,  1777,  and  1824.  On  the 
last  occasion  the  waters  rose  13  ft.  4  hi. 
above  tlieir  ordinary  level. 

The  historical  associations  of  the  most 
remarkalile  buildings  of  St.  Petersburg 
will  be  mentioned  in  proper  order. 
The  traveller  wlio  wislies  to  obtain  a 
more  accurate  Imowledge  of  the  topo- 
gra])liy  of  the  city  is  recommended  to 
ascend  the  dome  <»f  St.  Isaac's.  From 
here,  looking  N.,  hv  will  see  tiie  Vassili 
Ostrof,  or  Basil  Island,  and  on  it  tlie 
Exchange,  tlie  Academy  of  Sciences, 
the  University,  the  1st  Military  School 
(or  Corps  de  Cadets),  and  the  Academy 
of  Arts,  all  facing  the  river.  A  little 
to  the  left  is  the  Citadel,  and  beyond 
it,  to  the  N.  and  W.,  are  the  islands  of 
Ai)tekarski  (witli  the  College  of  Sur- 
geons), Kamennoi,  Petrofski,  Krestof- 
ski,  and  Elaghinski.  To  the  E.  of  the 
Great  Nevka,  and  the  N.  bank  of 
the  Neva,  are  barracks,  factories,  and 
various  government  establishments. 
Tlic  communication  between  the  main- 
l^d  and  these  islands  is  limited  to 
three  bridges :  the  Nicholas  Bridge, 
on  magnificent  granite  piers,  an<l 
elegant  iron  arches  (cast  at  Baird's 
works  at  the  month  of  the  river) ;  the 
Dvortsovy,  or  Palace  Bridge,  of  boats, 


lietween  the  Exchange  and  the  Winter 
Palace ;  the  Troitski  Floating  Bridge, 
between  the  fortress  and  the  Champs 
de  Mars,  and  opposite  to  the  British 
Embassy  (on  the  S.  side  of  the  river) ; 
and  lastly,  the  Voskresenski  Floating 
Bridge,  also  of  boats.  The  islands 
themselves  arc  connected  by  numerous 
other  bridges:  and  ferry-boats  and 
small  steamers  still  further  complete 
the  means  of  communication  between 
them. 

On  the  islands,  as  well  as  in  every 
other  part  of  the  city,  may  be  descried 
the  watch-to7vers,  from  which  strict 
look-out  is  kept  day  and  night  for 
fires.  They  are  lofty  circular  build- 
ings, with  an  iron  apparatus  projecting 
many  feet  above  them,  designed  for 
making  signals  to  show  in  what  part 
of  the  town  the  fire  has  broken  out. 
This  is  done  by  hanging  out  balls  by 
day,  and  lanterns  ])y  night,  varying 
their  number  and  arrangement  accord- 
ing to  the  situation  of  the  conflagra- 
tiou.  These  towers  are  the  best  places 
for  obtaining  views  of  many  parts  of 
the  capital.  In  a  city  built  so  much 
of  timber  as  St.  Petersburg  a  tiro 
spreads  with  the  speed  of  lightning, 
and  the  destruction  caused  both  to  life 
and  property  is  frequently  fearful. 

South  of  the  Admiralty  the  most 
imi)ortant  part  of  the  city  presents 
itself,  stretching  along  that  bank  of 
the  Neva,  which  for  nearly  4  miles  pm-- 
sues  a  south-westerly  course.  Hero 
reside  the  court,  the  nobility,  and 
more  than  half  the  jjopulation.  The 
closely  built  masses  of  this  side  of 
the  river  are  divided  into  3  semi- 
circular divisions  by  the  Moika,  the 
St.  Catherine,  and  the  Fontanka  canals, 
and  these  are  intcrReeted  by !}  principal 
streets  radiating  from  the  Admiralty, 
— the  Neva  Perspective  (Nevski-Pros- 
])ekt),  the  Peas-street  (Gorokhovaia- 
Ulitsa),  and  the  Ascension  Perspec- 
tive (Vosnesenski-Prospekt).  As  these 
streets  thus  diverge  from  the  Ad- 
miralty, a  person  stationed  in  the  lofty 
gallery  of  that  building  may,  with  the 
aid  of  a  telescope,  see  what  is  going 
on  at  their  remote  extremities.  The 
dircctiou  of  these  3  great  thoroughfares 


74 


Boutc  1. — St.  Petcrshurg. 


Sect.  I. 


Eussia.  Bouie  1. — St.  Petersburg:  Isaac  Cathedral. 


75 


and  the  canals  detonnino  that  of  most 
of  the  other  streets,  of  which  the  most 
remarkable  are  the  Great  and  Little 
Morskaia,  the  Millionaya,  the  Mes- 
chanskaya,  and  the  Sadovaya,  or 
(iarden -street.  All  the  streets  are, 
without  exception,  broad  and  con- 
venient, blind  alleys  and  narrow  lanes 
bein;L^  wholly  unkno^7n.  They  are 
classed,  indeed,  in  7)ro.«j)fi/.f8,  (formerly 
streets  with  2  rows  of  trees)  iditsi,  and 
pereulols  or  cross  streets,  but  even 
these  pereuloJcs  would  be  thought  in 
most  continental  towns  quite  spacious 
enough  for  main  streets.  They  are, 
however,  very  l>adly  paved.  Beyond 
the  Fontanka,  along  the  banks  of  wliich 
is  ranged  a  succession  of  palaces,  lie 
the  more  remote  portions  of  the  city, 
which  merge  by  degrees  in  the  swami)s 
of  Ingemianland,  or  Ingria.  To  tlie 
E.,  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Neva,  are 
the  villages  of  the  Great  and  Little 
Oklita,  and  tliese,  with  the;  suburljs 
on  the  Ligofku  and  Zagorodni  canals, 
are  peopled  by  the  labouring  classes. 
The  front  of  the  Admiralty,  towards 
tlie  vast  open  space  of  tlie  same  name, 
is  nearly  lialf  an  Kng.  m.  in  length, 
and  its  2  sides  at  rt.  angles  to  it,  and 
running  down  to  the  river,  are  G50 
En  jr.  ft.  Ion  LT ;  one  of  these  sides  faces 
the  Winter  Palace,  the  other  the 
"  Isaac's  Place  "  and  the  Senate  House. 
The  effect  of  the  light  and  graceful 
spire  of  the  Admiralty  is  very  pleasing, 
but  the  gallery  at  its  base  is  greatly 
disfigured  by  some  emblematical  figures 
in  plaster.  Over  the  principal  entrance 
are  .some  gigantic  frescoes  in  relief, 
emblematical  of  Russia's  power  and 
strengtli ;  one  of  the  groups  is  intended 
to  rei)resent  Peter  the  Great  receiving 
a  trident  from  the  hands  of  Neptune. 
A  considerable  portion  of  the  Ad- 
miralty is  devoted  to  schoolrooms  for 
naval  cadets  ;  the  rest  is  occujjied  by 
the  civil  departments  of  the  navy,  antl 
by  a  naval  museum.  Only  vessels  of 
very  small  burden  are  built  at  the 
dockyard  of  the  Admiralty,  the  slips 
for  frigates  and  ships  of  that  descrip- 
tion are  lower  down  the  river  at  the 
end  of  the  English  Quay. 

On  the  S.  front  of  the  Admiralty  is 


the  noble  Ploschad,  or  square,  called 
after  it,  round  which  are  grouped  the 
chief  buildings  of  the  capital ;  amongst 
these  is  tlie  "  Hotel  de  I'Etat  Major," 
where  the  Foreign  Oifice  and  the  De- 
partment of  Customs  arc  likewise 
located.  The  War  Office  stands 
alongside  the  Cathedral.  Tlie  Senate 
and  the  Svnod  flank  tlie  Admiralty 
Place  on  the  W.  On  the  rt..  and 
skirting  the  river,  is  the  AV^inter 
Palace.  The  circumference  of  the 
open  spaces,  bordered  l)y  the  public 
buildings  just  mentioned,  is  not  much 
less  than  an  Eng.  mile.  At  one 
extremity,  near  the  Senate  and  the 
Synod,  stands  the  colossal  equestrian 
statue  of  Peter  the  Great,  while  the 
otlier  is  gracefully  ornamented  by  the 
smooth  and  polished  monolith  raised 
to  the  memory  of  the  Emi)eror  Alex- 
ander I.  Tlie  quays  and  tlie  Neva  are 
as  much  animated  by  shipping  as  the 
streets  are  by  carriages  and  tlie  canals 
by  passing  l)oats.  But,  beautiful,  re- 
gular, and  vast  as  this  view  of  St. 
Petersburg  really  is,  the  traveller  will 
look  in  vain  for  anything  approaching 
the  picturesque.  No  buildings  are 
raised  above  the  rest ;  masses  of  archi- 
tecture, worthy  of  mountains  for  their 
pedestals,  are  ranged  side  by  side  in 
endless  lines,  and  the  eye,  nowhere 
gratified  either  by  elevation  or  grouj)- 
ing,  wanders  unsatisfied  over  a  mon- 
otonous sea  of  undulating  palaces, 
vainly  seeking  a  pohit  of  antiquity  or 
shade  on  which  to  repose.  This  is 
particularly  obvious  in  winter,  when 
streets,  river,  and  houses  are  all  covered 
with  snow.  In  spring,  when  the  sun 
removes  the  jiale  shroud  from  the 
earth  and  the  waters,  the  lively  green 
of  the  painted  roofs  and  the  bright 
cupolas  of  the  clis.  enable  the  eye  again 
to  revel  in  the  long  untasted  enj;)y- 
ment  of  colour,  while  the  river  gaily 
mirrors  the  palaces  that  grace  iis 
banks. 

No  one  can  have  a  just  opinion  of 
the  daring  position  of  St.  Petersburg 
who  has  not  mounted  one  of  her  arti- 
ficial heights,  and  viewed  the  immense 
body  of  waters  in  which  she  floats  like 
a  bark  overladen  with  precious  goods, 


1% 


while  the  waves  seem  as  if,  deriding 
her  false  foundations,  they  would  over- 
turn in  a  few  hours  that  which  the 
will  of  man  had  raised  with  such  un- 
tiring labour  and  energy.  When  a 
S.W.  wind  is  lifthig  the  Gulf  fuiiously 
towards  the  city,  and  the  Neva,  re- 
joicing in  its  strength,  is  dashing  along 
the  quays  and  tossing  to  and  fro  the 
vessels  moored  close  to  them,  it  rccjuires 
no  further  evidence  to  show  the  stranger 
what  might  be  the  fate  of  the  thousands 
who  inhabit  it. 

Presuming,  therefore,  that  the  tra- 
veller has  followed  our  directions,  and 
taken  a  bird's-eye  view  of  this  city  of 
23alaces  and  its  suburbs,  and  made  him- 
self generally  acquainted  with  their 
to])ogrn])]iical  position,  he  may  descend 
into  the  streets,  and  traverse  the  bridges, 
islands,  great  thoroughfares, quays,  and 
squares,  with  a  view  of  acquiring  more 
in  defciil  a  knowledge  of  their  chief 
characteristics — the  external  appear- 
ance of  the  great  public  buildings, 
shojis,  and  population ;  and  then  take 
the  sights  at  leisure  as  they  present 
themselves  most  conveniently,  or  as 
his  individual  taste  may  suggest.  This 
])lan  of  a  general  survey  will  in  some 
degree  satisfy  the  feeling  of  restless 
curiosity  consequent  upon  a  recent 
arrival  in  scenes  utterly  strange,  and 
better  prepare  the  mind  for  the  quiet 
contemjilation  of  the  great  sights  wliich 
have  subsequently  to  be  examined — no 
small  undertaking  in  a  city  where  there 
is  so  much  to  see.  To  a  person  ac- 
customed to  tlie  moving  crowds  of 
London  or  Paris,  the  frequently  quiet 
and  deserted  appearance  of  the  vast 
squares  and  spacious  streets  of  St. 
Pet<}rsburg  is  peculiarly  striking;  and 
this  is  owing  to  the  insulliciency  of 
the  population  to  fill  the  frame  allotted 
to  it.  Such,  however,  is  not  the  case 
in  the  Nevski,  the  Pegent-street  of  St. 
Petersburg,  4  versts  {H  m.j  in  extent, 
and  nearly  in  a  right  line.  Here  all  is 
life  and  movement,  and  no  ten  yards  of 
ground  are  passed  that  do  not  present 
a  scene  or  a  subject  that  will  arrest  the 
attention  of  the  stranger.  It  has  been 
observed  that  the  Nevski  might  be 
called  Toleration-street,  from  the  num- 

liussla. -18GS. 


ber  of  churches  of  divers  persuasions 
hi  it:  Greek,  Roman  Catholic,  Dutch, 
and  Armenian.  Here  also  will  be  seen 
the  Kazan  Cathedral,  the  Gostinnoi 
Dvor  ^the  Great  Bazaar^,  and  one  of 
the  two  great  national  theatres.  The 
houses  are  magnificent,  rising  to  3 
and  4  stories.  The  most  agreeable 
hour  to  promenade  the  Nevski  is  the 
afternoon,  when  the  ladies  do  their 
shopping,  and  the  men  go  to  look 
at  the  fair  purchasers.  Pedestrians 
always  prefer  the  northern  side,  where 
the  most  fashionable  shops  are  situated. 
The  fjivourite  promenade,  hoTvever,  in 
winter,  is  the  Court  Quay. 

The  pleasure  of  a  walk  in  the  Nevski 
is  qualified  in  summer  by  the  dust,  for 
there  are  no  water-carts ;  in  winter  this 
inconvenience  is  not  felt,  and  during 
that  season  we  think  no  capital  in 
Europe  can  present  a  more  singular, 
niitl  in  its  way  a  more  magnificent 
spectacle,  than  the  display  of  sledges 
and  costumes  which  crowd  this  street. 

The  traveller  is  referred  to  the  plan 
ft  )r  the  names  of  the  streets.  The  prin- 
cipal buildings  are  also  marked  on  it, 
and  they  may  be  visited  in  the  order  in 
which  they  are  here  described. 

According  to  a  census  taken  in 
1864,  the  Pop.  of  St.  Petersbui-g  is 
.547,422. 


Sights  of  St.  Petersbueg. 

1.  Isaac  Cathedral  (dedicated  to  St. 
Isaac  of  Dalmatian. — This  edifice  can- 
not fail  to  excite  the  admiration  of 
those  who  appreciate  grand  propor- 
tions, a  simple  but  lofty  style  of  archi- 
tecture, and  noble  porticoes.  The 
situation  also  is  highly  suitable,  for  it 
stands  in  one  of  the  largest  open  spaces 
in  the  capital,  surrounded  by  its  finest 
buildings  and  monuments,  and  it  will 
give  the  stranger  some  idea  of  what 
Russian  quarries,  mines,  and  workmen 
can    produce.     Nothing    can    exceed 

•    F 


76 


Itoute  1. — St.  Pefcrshnyg :  Isaac  Catlicdrah  Sect.  I. 


the  simplicity 'f»f  the  model;  no  oriia- 
mcnt    moots   the   eye;    the    iircliitect 
(IMons.    MontterranVl)  has  left  all  to 
the    impression    to   be   produced    l»y 
.stripondons    proportions    and    costli- 
ness of  material.     On  tlie  spot  \vl\ere 
the  Isaac   Church  stands,    tlic    llus- 
sians  had  hecn  at  work  upon  a  place 
of  worship  for  the  last  century.     Tlic 
original   one    was   in    wood,    erected 
bylVter  tlie  Great  in  1710,  but  this 
was  subseiiueutly  destroyed,  and  tl»e 
great  Catherine  connuenced   another, 
wliich   was   iinished    in    1801.      This 
(Mlifice  vanislied,  however,  in  its  turn, 
and  the  present  magnificent  structure 
has  lieen  erected  in  the  ccau-se  of  three 
reigns,   having    been    commenced    in 
isfo,  and  consecrated  1S5S.    To  make 
a  lirm  foundation,   a   wliolo   forest  of 
l)iles  was  sunk  in  tlie  swamjiy  soil,  at 
a  cost  of  200,000/.,  and  a  furthcM-  outlay 
has   recently  been   made  in  order  to 
]>rop  ui)and  prevent  from  sinking  tliat 
]>art  of  tlie  cathedral  whi<'h  faces  the 
river.      Tlie   present   l)uilding   is,   as 
usual,  in  the  form  of  a  Cireek  cross, 
of  four  e(pial  sides,  and  each  of  tlie 
four   grand  entrances   is  approaclied 
from  tlie  level  of  the  Vlarc  by  tlxrec 
broad    llights    of   steps,   each   whole 
flight   being   composed  of  one   entire 
piece  of  granite,  formed  out  of  masses 
of  rock  brought  from  Finland.     These 
steps  lead  from  the   four  siih'S  of  the 
building  to  the  four  chief  entrances, 
each  of  which  has  a  superb  peristyle. 
Tile  pillars  of  these  ]ieristyles  are  00 
ft.  high,  and  have  a  diameter  of  7  ft., 
all   magnificent,   round,  aial   highly- 
polished  granite?  monoliths,  from  Fin- 
land.    They  are  crowned  with  Corin- 
thian capitals  of  bronze,  and  support 
the  enormous  beam  of  a  frieze  formed 
of  six  fire-polished  blocks.     Over  the 
peristyles,  and  at  twice  their  height, 
rises   the   chief  and    central    cupola, 
higher  than  it  is  wide,  in  the  Byzan- 
tine proiiorti»)n.     It  is  supported  alst) 
by  thirty  pillars  of  smootii   polished 
granit<',  \vhich,  although  gigantic   in 
themselves,   look   small   compared   to 
those  below.     The  cupola  is  covered 
with  copi)er  overlaid  with  gold,  and 
glitters  like  the  sun  over  a  mountain. 
From  its  centre  rises  a  small  elegant 


rotunda,  a  miniature  repetition  of  the 
whole,  looking  like  a  chapel  on  the 
mountain-top.  The  whole  edifice  is 
surmounted  by  a  far-seen  golden  cross,* 
Four  smaller  cupolas,  resemlding  the 
greater  in  every  i)artieular,  sfciiid 
around,  and  completer  the  harmony 
visible  in  every  i)art.  Tlie  embellish- 
ments of  the  fa9adt?  and  windows  have 
be<Mi  intrusted  to  various  artists.  The 
group  of  fignres  on  the  pediment  of 
one  of  the  former  was  designed  by  a 
Frenchman,  a  IMonsieur  Le  Maire  ;  the 
subject  is  tlic  Angel  at  thcTonil).  \vith 
theMag<lalen  and  other  female  figures 
on  the  one  side,  and  the  terrified 
soldiers  in  every  attitude  of  consterna- 
tion on  the  other;  th(\so' bronze  figures 
an;  S  ft.  in  height.  The  great  dome  is 
of  iron,  and,  as  well  as  the  whole  of 
the  bronze-work,  was  manufactured 
at  the  foundry  of  Mr.  Baird,  of  St. 
Petersburg.  In  the  interior  of  the  ch. 
the  malachite  columns  lor  tlus  ikouo- 
stas,  or  screen  are  more  than  HO  ft.  in 
height,  and  exceed  anything  that  has 
yet  been  done  in  that  beautiful  stone. 
The  ])illar  of  lapis-laznli  on  either 
side  of  the  door  of  the  screen  is  very 
valuable,  12,00U/.  the  two,  l)ut  has  an 
incongruous  appearance  next  the  ma- 
lachite. The  "  Royal  Door  "  of  the 
ikonostjis  is  of  bronze,  and  is  '23  ft. 
high  by  about  15  ft.  in  l)readth.  Both 
th(>  malachite  and  lapis-lazuli  pillars 
arc  merely  tubes  of  cast-inm  on  which 
the  stone  has  been  laid  in  mosaic 
work. 

The  inmost  shrine  is  placetl  in  a 
small  circuLir  t<'mplc,  the  <lome  sup- 
ported by  8  Corinthian  i)illars  of  mala- 
chite, about  8  ft.  high,  with  gilt  bases 

*  Wi;  may  here  correct  a  iK)]»ular  crmr  rc- 
sp(H;ling  tlic  .signilkuition  of  the  Crescent,  so  fre- 
<iuintly  seen  in  combination  with  the  Cross  on 
Russian  cupolas.  It  is  riot  cmbUmatical  of  the 
triumph  of  the  Greek  Churcli  over  Mahomed- 
auism  after  the  expulsion  of  the  Taruirs  from 
llussia,  for  it  was  a  device  used  in  the  curliest 
Kussian  churches  loni;  before  tlie  invaMon,  and 
w.is  imported  from  liyzantium  on  the  introduc- 
tion of  Christianity.  'The  iloly  Virgin  is  repre- 
sents in  the  most  ancient  Greek  pictures  wiih 
her  fiet  resting  on  a  crescent,  and  the  cross  sub- 
sequently )>Iace<l  over  it  by  the  llussian  Churcli 
is  therefore  supjwsod  by  the  .Suffragan  Dishop  of 
Moscow  to  typify  the  issuing  of  the  Cross  from 
the  Mother  of  God. 


Ivussia.         Pumle  1. — St.  Petci'shurg  :  CJiurch  Ceremonies. 


) 


and  capitals ;  the  exterior  of  the  (hmie 
is  covered  with  a  ])rofnsion  of  gilding 
on  a  ground  f»f  nmlachit*!,  and  the 
interior  is  of  lapis-lazuli.  The  mala- 
chite of  the  8  j)illars  weighs  about 
:)4,000  lbs.  English,  and  its  cost  was 
2o.00(>/.  It  was  worked  hy  Messrs. 
Xi<'holls  and  riincke  of  the  *"  English 
Magazine"  at  St.  Petersburg.  "^Tlie 
walls  andfioorare  of  jjolished  marblesof 
various  colours,  which  have  been  found 
in  tlu!  Kussian  donunions,  and  the 
whole  is  raised  on  stei>s  of  jtolished 
])ori)hyry.  There  is,  perhaps,  too 
much  giMing  about  this  very  beautifnl 
work,  but  this  is  in  ac<'or(lance  with 
its  i)ositiou  in  a  (ireek  church.  It  was 
])resented  t^»  the  Emperor  by  Prince 
I-)emid(»rt',  wlhj  prfK'ured  the  malachite 
from  his  mines  in  Siberia,  and  sent  it 
to  Italy  t^)  be  worked ;  its  value  is  said 
to  be  a"s  much  as  1.000.000  of  rubles. 

All  the  j)ictures  on  the  walls  are  by 
Iiussian  artists.  Many  of  them  are 
of  mosaic  work  executed  at  a  mann- 
fact^»ry  close  to  the  Academy  of  Arts, 

It  is  from  the  rotunda  over  the  great 
dome  that  the  traveller  is  recom- 
mended to  view  the  cai)itjil  on  a  bright 
and  clejir  day  ;  and  in  this  ch,  also  he 
should,  if  S(>  minded,  witness  some  of 
the  ceremonies  of  the  Greek  Church, 
The  hours  of  Divine  service  are  from 
0  to  8  A.M.,  10  to  12,  and  from  4  to  0; 
and  on  Saturdays  frt»m  0  to  715  p.m. 
On  holydays  of  the  Church  these  hours 
are  advanced  by  30  nu'iiut^es.  The 
singing  is  the  most  eftective  portion  of 
the  service,  and  most  of  the  j)rayers 
are  intoned.  The  choristers  of  this 
cathedral  rank  in  efliciency  next  aft^er 
those  of  the  Court  Chapel,  whose  re- 
hearsals may  be  attended  on  api)lica- 
tioii  to  the  Director  of  the  Scliool  at 
the  *"  Singers'  Bridge."  In  the  cere- 
monies of  the  llussian  Church,  boys, 
as  in  our  cathedrals,  take  the  sojirano 
])arts.  Consideral^le  exi>ense  is  in- 
curred for  dee]>  basses,  the  best  voices 
being  everywhere  sought  for  and 
liberally  remunerated.  They  arc  not 
exactly  for  the  choir,  but  for  certain 
half-recitative  solos,  occasionally  re- 
<iuired  in  the  service,  and  which  must 
always  be  <lelivered  by  amazingly 
strong  uud  deep  bass  voices,  such  as 


'' Gospodi  pomilui:"  The  Tjord  have 
mercy  !  or,  Lord  we  ])ray  thee;  Grant 
this,  O  Lord,  &c.  it  has  somewhat 
the  efiect  of  as  many  double  basses  all 
executing  the  saiiie  short  arpeggio 
])assage,  and  repeating  it  without  any 
variation  in  the  chord,  time,  or  tone  ; 
it  is  tiierefore  tedious  when  frequently 
heard.  One  of  the  most  impressive 
])ortions  of  the  service  is  towards  the 
close;  the  d(K»rs  of  the  Ikonostjis  arc 
then  shut,  the  chanting  ceases,  the 
incense-bearers  withdraw,  and  every 
one  seems  l)reathless  with  atteiFtiou  ; 
at  length  the  ••Royal  doors"  in  the, 
centre  are  reo])cned  ami  thrown  back, 
and  the  priest,  carrying  on  his  hea<l 
an  enormous  volume,  which  he  str'adies 
with  Ixtth  hands,  comes  forward  and 
commences  a  long  recitative:  during 
this  every  one  Ixnds  low  in  a  humble 
attitude  of  adoration  :  the  large  volume 
contains  the  Gospels;  the  prayer  is  for 
the  Emperor. 

In  Russia  the  outward  forms  of 
the  (xreek  Church  seem  to  have  taken 
as  firm  and  enduring  a  hold  of  the 
men  as  of  the  women,  all  classes 
alike  participating  in  this  strong 
feeling  of  external  devotion.  The 
first  proceeding  of  a  Russian  on 
entering  a  church  is  to  purchase  a 
wax  candle,  a  supply  of  which  is 
generally  kept  near  the  door,  and  the 
sale  of  which  constitutes  a  very  lucra- 
tive trattic ;  bearing  this  in  one  hand,  he 
slowly  approaches  one  of  the  shrines  : 
at  a  short  distiince  from  it  he  sinks  on 
one  knee,  l)owing  his  head  to  the  jiave- 
ment,  and  crossing  his  breast  re- 
peatedly with  the  thumb  and  two 
forefingers  of  his  right  hand  ;  havhig 
at  length  reache<l  the  shrine  itself,  ho 
ligh.ts  his  votive  candle  at  the  holy 
lam]»,  and  sets  it  up  in  one  of  the 
various  holes  in  a  large  silver  plate 
provi<led  for  the  jmrpose,  and  falling 
low  on  his  l)ended  knees  kisses  the 
l)avement  before  the  altar.  His  jtrayers 
are  few  and  short,  and  he  retires  slowly 
with  his  face  to  the  altar,  kneeling  and 
crossing  himself  at  intervals. 

This  kindling  of  Luu]>.-;  :;nd  tajiers  in 
Russian  churches  is  a  pleasing  custom  ; 
the  little  fianie  is  so  living  a  symbol  of 

F  2 


78 


Route  l.—St.  Petersburg :  Clergy. 


Sect.  I. 


the  contimicd  life  of  the  soul,  and,  be- 
yond all  otlier  material  things,  flame  is 
the  best  representation  of  tlie  spiritual. 
The  Kussiaus  have  so  closely  adopted 
this  idea  tliat  there  is  no  interment, 
no  baptism,  no  betrothin.ii:,  in  short,  no 
sacred  ceremony,  without  lamj)  or 
tnper;  fire  is  for  them  the  i)ledge  of 
the  presence  of  the  Holy  Spirit ;  and 
hence  illuminations  piny  the  most  im- 
pijrtant  part  in  the  ceremonies  of  the 
Greek  Church. 

The  following:  extract  from  the  last 
edition  of  the  *  Encycloprcdia  Britan- 
nica,'  relative  to  the  rites  of  the  Russo- 
Greek  Church,  may  here  be  read  with 
advantage. 

'•  The  Greco-Russian  Church  guards 
vigilantly  against  the  introduction  of 
iiny  doctrine  open  to  tlie  sliglitest 
suspicion  of  heresy,  and  has  its  own 
censorship  and  journals.  It  is  also 
very  observant  of  liierarchical  subor- 
dination. Generally,  liowever,  the 
Russian  clergy,  althougli  jealous  of 
their  dignity,  have  not  the  spiritual 
pride  or  priestcraft  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  order,  attriluit^ble  no  doiil^t 
in  part  to  the  kindly  national  character, 
and  in  part  to  the  liumanizing  in- 
fluence of  marriage,  which  prevents 
the  overwhelming  concentration  <»f 
all  the  human  passions  into  one  single 
channel.  The  Greco-Russian  Church 
is  mostly  antagonistic  to  the  Roman 
Catholic,  and  diftcrs  from  it  in  the 
following  essential  particulars :— 1 .  In 
not  recognizing  tlie  primacy  of  tlie 
Pope.  2.  In  denying  that  the  Holy 
Ghost  proceeds  from  the  Son  (fih'o- 
que).  3.  In  rejecting  a  purgatory,  pre- 
destination 'except  in  the  omniscience 
of  the  Deity),  indulgences,  dispensa- 
tions, and  works  of  supererogation, 
although  admitting  the  intercession 
of  saints  by  prayer.  4.  It  holds  the 
necessity  of  complete  sul)mersion  of 
the  body  at  baptism,  unless  in  urgent 
cases,  when  even  laymen  and  women 
may  perform  it ;  but  they  must  immerse 
the"  infant  with  the  baptismal  words. 
'  In  the  name  of  the  Father,  Son,  and 
Holy  Ghost,'  if  the  infant  can  bear  the 
immersion  ;  if  not,  then  sprinkling  or 
ablution  is  used.    Should  the  priest 


arrive  in  time,  he  reads  the  supple- 
mentary prayers,  and  performs  the 
mystery  of  anointing  with  chrism. 
5.  Whilst  admitting  the  doctrine  of 
transubstantiation  in  regard  to  the 
eucharist,  it  aflirms  that  the  holy 
bread  (irpoacpopa)  must  l)e  leavened  ; 
the  wine  and  water  being  placed  in 
the  chalice ;  and  it  is  only  at  tlie 
prayer  of  transubstantiation  that  part 
of  the  afjnns  is  placed  in  the  chalice. 
The  element  of  wine  with  water  is 
alone  administered  to  children  up  to 
the  age  of  seven,  for  fear  of  the  elements 
being  ejected  or  falling  to  the  ground. 
(3.  Another  important  distinction  is 
that  marriage  is  obligatory  on  the 
secular  clergy,  although  monogamy  is 
a  strict  tenet  of  the  Church.  A  i)riest 
may  continue  to  serve  after  his  wife 
dies.  7.  No  instrumental  music  is 
allowed,  l)ut  vocal  music  forms  a  most 
attractive  portion  of  the  service. 

"This  Church  rejects  all  massive 
images  of  the  Saviour  or  saints  as 
idolatrous  ;  but  pictures,  mosaics,  bas- 
reliefs,  and,  in  short,  all  that  is  re- 
presented on  a  flat  surfiice,  is  not 
hehl  a  violation  of  the  law  which 
says,  '  Thou  slialt  not  make  unto 
thee  any  graven  image  ! '  Broadly 
stated,  and  besides  .some  of  the  pre- 
ceding tenets,  the  Greco-Russian  re- 
ligion differs  from  the  Anglican  in  so 
far  as  the  latter  Church  approaches 
to  the  Lutheran.  Tlie  general  har- 
mony, however,  with  the  Anglican  is 
greater  than  with  any  other  church; 
ami  several  attempts  have  been  made, 
but  not  successfully,  to  unite  them, 
particularly  in  IT'ill  Addresses  still 
pass  at  intervals  between  the  two 
Churches ;  and  independently  of  the 
Irvingitcs,  the  ritual  of  Hatherly's 
new  community  at  LiveriX)ol  so 
strongly  resembles  the  Greek  service 
that  it  has  attracted  the  notice  of  the 
Russian  synod. 

"There  are  four  great  fasts:  —  1. 
Lent,  or  the  great  fa.st,  between  tlie 
carnival  and  Easter,  of  seven  weeks' 
duration,  and  of  which  the  first  and 
last  are  the  most  rigidly  observed, 
being  more  specially  devoted  to  re- 
])cntance,  confession,  and  preparing 
for    the    sacrament;  2.    The  Petroff, 


Kussia.  Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  Church  Service. 


70 


the 

the 
are 


or  Peter's  fast,  before  St.  Peter's 
day,  in  June,  of  two  to  five  weeks' 
duration,  accordingly  as  Easter  Sun- 
day falls  ;  3.  The  Usponski,  or  Con- 
cei>tion  fast,  called  by  the  people 
the  (lospozinki,  from  the  1st  to  15th 
August.  4.  The  Pliilii)ix)ff,  or  St.  Phi- 
lip's fast,  of  six  weeks  be  fore  Christmas. 
Tlie  first  fast,  or  Lent,  is  the  most 
rigidly  observed.  Besides  the  above, 
the  Wednesday  and  Friday  of  every 
week  are  fast-days,  and  the  common 
people  scrupulously  keep  them  all. 
Catechising  and  preaching  are  prac- 
tised,— the  latter  frequently,  the  former 
at  set  intervals.  Coiitirmation  is  not 
jiractised,  the  chrism  used  at  baptism 
lieing  held  to  comprise  a  mystery, 
n-uderiiig  that  ceremony  supereroga- 
tory. The  Church  festivals  and  saints' 
days,  kept  with  Eastern  splendour, 
are  numerous,  and  consequently  form 
drawbacks  to  the  business  of  life, 
although  they  greatly  relieve 
labouring  classes. 

"  The  venerative  feeling  of 
jieople  is  jirofouitd,  and  they 
zealous  church-goers,  early  and  late, 
being  due  observers  besides  of  all 
the  outward  forms  of  religion,  in 
which  the  essence  is  sometimes  ab- 
sorbed. There  is,  however,  much 
genuine  piety  to  be  met  with ;  pil- 
grimages to  monasteries  are  frequent 
among  all  classes  ;  donations,  free 
gifts,  offerings,  and  alms,  being  liber- 
ally bestowed  by  both  rich  and  poor. 
There  are  no  entrance-fees,  no  distinc- 
tions for  great  and  little,  no  pews,  no 
reserved  places  in  Russian  churches : 
the  congregation  stand  :  all  are  equal 
before  God.  The  Sabbath  is  not  much 
observed,  except  as  a  church-going 
day.  The  shojjs  are  shut  during  the 
hours  of  worship,  but  all  jaiblic  jilaces 
of  amusement  are  afterwards  thrown 
open ;  visits  are  made,  and  business 
is  but  little  aft'ected  by  obedience  ti 
this  salutary  ordinance  of  the  supreme 
lawgiver. 

"The  Church  service  is  performed 
in  the  ancient  Church  Slavonic,  and 
the  lower  classes  cannot  therefore 
completely  follow  it,  except  as  a  thing 
they  take  for  granted,  although  they 
comprehend  its  general  signification.  | 


The  Bible,  however,  is  now  partly 
translated  into  the  vernacular  Russ. 
The  congregation  fervently  join  in 
the  choral  parts,  the  responses,  and 
the  ejaculations.  This  portion  of  the 
service,  and  the  great  pomp  investing 
the  whole  system  of  worship,  together 
with  the  procession  of  banners,  pic- 
tured saints,  and  relics,  have  no  doubt 
been  the  great  means  of  originally 
impressing  on  a  rude  people  the  holy 
awe  they  entertiin  for  Tsar  and 
Church  ;  which  two,  Avith  them,  are 
identical.  Church  service  usually  con- 
sists of  the  Vozglass,  or  call  to  wor- 
ship ;  singing  of  psalms  or  hymns ; 
the  Eldenia,  a  series  of  prayers,  mostly 
intoned,  for  the  welfare  of  the  Church 
and  her  chiefs,  for  the  peace  and  union 
of  the  Christian  Churches,  and  for 
every  sejiarate  member  of  the  imperial 
family ;  the  reading  of  the  epistles 
and  evangel ;  choral  and  part  singing 
of  unexampled  harmony;  a  sermon, 
always  in  the  common  language,  ex- 
plaining the  evangel  read;  prayers, 
preparing  for  the  Communion,  and 
during  which  the  priest  prepares  him- 
self; the  consecration  of  the  elements, 
and  the  administration  of  the  sacra- 
ment, which  the  clergyman  takes 
every  time,  and  the  congregation  at 
will ;  then,  thanksgiving  for  the  sacra- 
ment, and  ])arting  benediction  ;  the 
chantingand  incense-burning  through- 
out behig  frequent.  Asperging  with 
holy  water  is  also  used.  The  Old 
Testament  is  read  only  during  even- 
ing service,  which  is  intended  to 
prepare  for  the  morning  or  principal 
service,  and  it  therefore  has  a  i)ro- 
phetic  tendency,  the  psalms  and  hymns 
being  all  appropriate.  The  morning 
service  represents  the  fulfilment  of 
these  projihecies.  Service  much  of 
the  same  kind  is  often  performed — 
sometimes  exorcisms  too — at  i»rivate 
houses,  on  special  occasions  ;  and  the 
remembrance-service,  or  rominJci,  forty 
days  after  a  person's  death,  is  a  pious 
custom ;  as  is  that  of  the  yearly  visita- 
tion of  family  graves,  altliough  this 
often  degenerates  into  revelling.  It  is 
another  laudable  custom  of  the  Rus- 
sians to  remove  their  hats,  in  the 
streets,  before  all  funerals  that  pass. 


80 


Boute  1. — St.  Petei-fihurt/ :  Kazcni  C<(t1icclraL  Sect.  I. 


I-'.vcry  Kussinu  is  oblip^cd  to  take  the 
.saon\meiit  at  least  oiioo  a  year. 

'•The  ealendar  in  use  is  the  Julian  or 
( Jreek,  which  is  twelve  days  behind  tlie 
(ircf^orian  or  Lathi.  The  anta<»-onisni 
of  tlie  two  Chmvhes  is  perhaps  the 
ehief  objection  to  ;i  reform  in  this 
respect.  Tlic  superstitious  Ix'liL'f  of 
tlie  comnion  peo])le  in  «i;ood  and  bad 
spirits,  in  house-speetres,  forest  and 
water  demons,  is  fast  <lyin,i;  out, 
;dthoui>h  too  much  cndeiUT  is  .still 
uivtii  to  omens  and  witchcraft." 


2.  Kazan    Cathedral,   dedicated    to 
( )iir  Lady  of  Kazan. 

Tliis  »'h.  stands  in  the  Nevski  Per- 
-|.»'ctiv<-,  and  will  bo  easily  recognised 
\>y  its  roloiuiudc  in  imitalion  of  St. 
Vctcr's  ;it  Knnie.  It  was  founded  in 
1802,  and  roiiMriatfd  in  1811,  after 
an  outlay  of  about  000.000/.  Built 
{>][  piles,  it  has  the  shape  of  a  cross, 
witli  a  lengtli  of  238  ft.  between  its 
extremities,  and  a  breadth  of  182 
It.  The  eui)ola  and  cross  rise  more 
than  230  ft.  above  the  ground.  Inside 
the  cli,  a  colonnade  extends  iji  4  rows 
from  tlie  4  j)illars  which  sui)poit  tlie 
cupola  towards  the  altar  and  the  3 
jirincipal  doors  of  the  cathedral.  It 
consists  of  50  monoliths  of  Finland 
granite,  35  ft.  in  height,  n-sting  on 
bronze  bases  and  terminating  in 
Corinthian  capitals  of  the  same  metal. 
The  ikonostas  is  of  silver,  as  well  as 
the  balustrade  in  front.  An  inscrij)- 
tioii  on  it  states  that  the  silver  of 
which  it  is  made  was  a  *'  zealous  oti'er- 
ing  of  the  Don  Cossacks,"  after  the 
campaign  of  1812.  The  name  of  the 
Ahnighty  is  rendered  in  jirccious 
stones,  in  the  centre  of  the  j)rincii»al 
door  of  the  screen  ;  the  glory  around 
is  only  gilt.  The  miraculous  image  of 
the  Virgin,  brought  from  Kazan  in 
1579  and  removed  to  St.  Petersburg  in 
1S21.  will  bo  seen  in  the  ikonostas, 
covered  with  fine  gold  and  i)recious 
stones  valued  at  more  than  15.000/. 


The  huge  sapphire  was  jiresented  by 
the  Grand  D.uchess  Catherine  Pav- 
lovna.  The  other  iiaintings  are  by 
Russian  academicians.  Four  immense 
candelabra  of  silver  stand  before  the 
]>rincipal  altar-.screen.  The  ])ulpit, 
the  imperial  .seat,  or  rather  stand,  and 
the  ri(M»r  are  of  coloured  marble,  with 
steps  of  highly  jiolished  jasper. 

The  tatub  of  (Jenertd  Knfuxnff-Siaa- 
h-rnhn  will  be  .seen  under  the  trojdiies 
of  wars  with  France,  Turkey,  and 
Persia.  He  lies  buried  on  the  si)ot 
where  he  jirayed  before  .setting  out  to 
meet  the  enemy  in  1812.  The  baton 
of  Davoust,  Prince  of  Kckmuhl,  and 
the  keys  of  many  fortresses,  are,  sus- 
pended against  tlu^  jiillars  of  this 
military-looking  cathedral.  Among 
the  keys  are  those  of  Hamburg,  Leip- 
sic,  Dresden,  Ilheims,  Preda,  and 
Utrecht. 

In  front  of  the  cathedral  are  two 
well-executed  .statues  ;  one  of  Kutusotl 
of  Smolensk,  the  .. then. f  (General  P>ar- 
clav  ile  Tollv. 


3.  Whiffii-  Ptilafc. — Having  inspect^rd 
the  two  nearest  and  ])rinciiial  churches, 
the  traveller  is  advised  to  view  the 
several  j^alaces  and  tiieir  treasures. 
The  ]\'int('r  I'ahar,  the  residence  of 
the  Emj)eror  and  his  court  during 
winter,  stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Neva,  on  the  site  of  a  house  which  in 
the  reign  of  Peter  the  ( treat  belonged 
to  his  High  Admiral,  C<»unt  Ajiraxin, 
who  be(|ueathe«l  it  to  the  Emjieror 
IVter  II.  The  Fmpress  Anne,  after 
l)eing  crowned  jit  Moscow,  took  uj) 
her  residence  in  Apraxin's  house,  but 
had  it  i)uned  down  in  1754  and  rebuilt 
by  Count  Pastrelli,  l>y  whom  it  was 
comi»leted  in  1702,  in  the  reign  of  the 
Empr(>ss  Catherine.  A  contlagration, 
which  is  supi)osed  to  have  origuiated 
in  some  defe<'t  in  the  stoves,  consumed 
the  whole  interior  of  the  building 
in  December,  1837,  notwithstanduig 
every  effort  made  to  save  it.    It  soon, 


Russia.  Route  1.— St.  Petersbmr/:  Winter  Palace. 


81 


however,  rose  again  from  its  embers. 
In  1830  the  AVinter  Palace  was  en- 
tirely restored.  The  huge  pile  is  now 
four  stories  high,  or  about  80  ft.  The 
frontage  is  455  feet  in  length,  and  the 
breadth  350  feet.  The  principal  en- 
trance, or  "  Perron  des  Ambas.sa- 
deurs,"  is  from  the  Neva,  and  leads 
})y  a  magniiiceiit  flight  of  marble 
steps  to  the  state  apartments  of  the 
jialace.  A  gateway  in  the  centre  of 
the  building,  facing  Alexaiah-r's  Co- 
lunui,oj)ens  into  a  large  court.  Visitors, 
after  procuring  a  ticket,*  are  admitted 
by  an  entrance  to  tlu;  right  of  that 
gateway.  One  of  the  Im])erial  servants 
will  conduct  them  thr<»ugh  the  several 
ai^artments,  of  which  the  most  magni- 
ficent are — the  Throne-room  of  Peter 
I.,  where  the  di]domatic  corps  gene- 
rally ]iresent  their  coiiLcratulations  on 
New  Year's  Day;  the  White  Hall; 
th.-  Hall  of  St.  (ieorge.  a  parallelo- 
gram of  140  ft.  by  00;  the  (Jallery  of 
the  Field-marshals,  with  jx.i-traits  of 
thits«-  who  fougliL  against  the  French, 
iiicliiiling  the  Duke  of  Wellington; 
and  the  Alexandt-r  (Jallery,  with  the 
portraits  of  the  generals  who  resisted 
the  French  invasion  in  1812,  executed 
by  our  c<tuntryman,  (ieorge  Dawe. 
Several  r(X)ms  will  be  i)assed  contain- 
ing pictures  of  battles  in  Poland,  in 
Italy,  in  (Germany,  an<l  the  Crimea. 
The  Englishman  may  pause  at  a  large 
l)icture  of  tlu^  battle  of  Palaclava, 
placed  in  a  small  dark  room,  and 
remember  with  prid(^  the  charge  of 
the  gallant  six  hundred.  The  battle 
of  Sinojie  is  among  the  rei)resentations 
of  naval  engagements  in  which  the 
Kussian  flag  trium])hed.  The  follow- 
ing is  a  li.st  of  the  princii)al  rooms, 
and  a  summary  of  the  pictures  which 
they  contain  : — 

Alexamlcf  Hall. — 1.  Portrait  of  Em- 
peror Alexander  1.,  by  Daive.  2.  Battle 
of  Kulm,  18th  (30th)  August,  1813 
(Vandamme  Iwal-cui  by  Barclay  de 
Tolly,.      3.    Battle    of   Leipzig,     0th 

*  Tickets  to  \lo\v  the  Palace  may  be  bad  at 
tbe  entrance  to  the  Council  of  the  Empire,  close 
to  the  little  canal  wlucli  rises  in  the  Neva.  The 
servants  v.i'o  bhow  the  .several  apartiucuts 
should  have  cuiall  fees, 


I  (18th)  August,  1813.  4.  Fere  Cham- 
penoise,  13th  ^25th)  March,  1814.  5. 
Taking  of  Paris,  18th  (30th)  March, 
1814— the  last  four  by  Sauermiid. 

IRe-ien-e  Room. — I.  1.  Battle  at  Bash- 
Kadvk-Lar,  defeat  of  the  Turks,  10th 
Nov:  (1st  Dec),  1853,'  by  (IF.)  Wille- 
walde.  2.  Defeat  of  the  Turks  at 
Kuruk-Dar,  27th  July  (8th  Aug.), 
1854,  l)y  Jiaihor.  3.  Taking  of  a 
bastion  at  Varna,  25th  Sept.  (7th  Oct.), 
1828,  by  Saner ivaid.  4.  Taldna-  of 
Akaltsykh,  15th  (27th)  Aug.  182i',  by 
Snhhodohl-ij.  5.  Storming  of  (iunib, 
where  Sliamyl  was  taken  prisoner,  20th 
Aug.  (7th  Sept.),  1850,  by  Griw'nshj. 
0.  Battle  of  Poltawa,  27th  .Time  (9th 
Julv),  1700,  by  Kotzehue.  7.  Battle  of 
Kei^k,  17th  (29th)  Sept.  1855,  by 
WiUetcaldp.  8.  Taking  of  Akhta,  by 
]!ailor. 

II.  1.  Naval  engagement  offllevel, 
9th  '21bt)  May,  1790.  2.  Naval  en- 
gagement off  Kiasnava  (Jorka  'near 
Croustadt),  23rd  May  (4th  .rune),  179(». 
3.  Naval  engagement  at  Wiborg,  29th 
June  (10th  July),  1790,  all  by  Mra- 
Zdfxhi/.  4.  Naval  engagement  off  IMount 
Athos,  17th  (29th)  July,  1807,  by 
Boqohihov.  5.  Battle  of  Navarino,  20th 
Oct.  (1st  Nov.),  1827.  0.  Destruction 
of  the  Turkish  fleet  at  Siiiope,  18th 
(30th;  Nov.  1853. — All  by  yl/msors/.-?/. 
7.  Defeat  of  the  Turkish  army  tit 
Tcheleti  (Asia),  by  Frince  Malsiitor. 

III.  1.  Battle  of  Smolensk,  15th 
';27tli;  Aug.  1812.  2.  Battle  of  Va- 
lutino,  7t'h  (19th)  Aug.  1812.  3. 
Battle  of  Borodhio,  20th  Aug.  (8th 
Sept.,  1812.  4.  Battle  of  Klestizy, 
19th  (.31st)  July,  1812.  5.  Exploit  of 
General  Newerowsky,  at  Krasnoe,  2nd 
ri4th)  Aug.  1812.  0.  Battle  of  Taru- 
tino,  0th  (18th)  October,  1812.  7. 
Battle  of  Malo-Yaroslavitz,  12th  (24th) 
October,  1812.  8.  Battle  of  Polotsk, 
7th  (19th)  Aug.  1812.  9.  Battle  of 
Lo.smin,  0th  (18th)  Nov.  1812.  10. 
Battle  of  Viasma,  22nd  Oct.  (3rd  Nov.), 
1812.  11.  Battle  of  Krasnoe,  Otli 
(18tii)  Nov.  1812.  12.  Passtige  of  the 
Berezina,  10th  (28thj  Nov.  1812.— All 
by  Peter  Hess, 


82 


Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg  :   Winter  Palace. 


Sect.  I. 


IV.  1.  Taking,' of  Berlin,  28tli  Sept. 
fOth  Oct.),  17GU.  2.  Capture  of  Col- 
beroj  (Pomerunia),  5th  (IGth)  Dec. 
1761.  3.  Buttle  of  Trebia,  9th  (21st) 
June,  1799.  4.  Battle  of  Novi,  4th 
(15th)  Aug.  1799.  5.  Suvorov  ut  the 
Devil's  bridge,  14th  (26th)  Sept.  1799. 
G.  Buttle  of  Muttine,  20th  Sept.  (1st 
Oct.),  1799.  7.  Suvorov  crossing  the 
St.  Gothard,  24th  Sept.  (^5th  Oct.), 
1799.— All  by  Kotzchue. 

V.  1.  Battle  of  Narva,  17th  r20th) 
Nov.  1700.  2.  Capture  of  Noteborg 
(Schliisselburg  ,  llth.(23ra)Oct.  1702. 

3.  Battle  of  Gross  Jiigei^lorf,  19th 
(31st)  Aug.  1757.  4.  Battle  of  Zoru- 
dortr,  14th  (26th,  Aug.  1758.  5.  En- 
gagement at  /iillicluiu,  12^1  (24th) 
July,  1759.  G.  Baltic  of  Kiinersdorlf. 
7.  Suvorov  and  the  (xrand  Duke  Con- 
stantiiic  ou  the  Punnix,  1799. — All  by 
Kotzehue. 

Guard  Boom. — 1.  Taking  of  Otcha- 
kov,  6th  (18th  i  Dec.  1788,  hy  Suhho- 
dohky.  2.  Battle  of  l^lisavetiwl,  13th 
(25th)  Sept.  1826;  Abb»s  ^lirza,  heir 
apparent  of  l*ersia,  beaten  by  Paske- 
vitch,  by  the  same  artist.  3.  Death 
of  a  young  Russian  drummer,  18th 
(30th)  March,  1814,  by  ReucliVm.  4. 
Don  Cossacks  crossing  the  TIkmss 
(Hungary),  16th  (28thj  June,  1848, 
hy  Willeicelde.  5.  Taking  of  Erzerum, 
20th  June  (2nd  July),  1829,  by  i^w/./io- 
dohlaj.  6.  Taking  of  Kars,  23rd  June 
(5th  July),  1829,  by  the  same. 

Dark  Room,  near  the  Guard  Koom. — 
1.  Death  of  General  IMoreau  at  Dres- 
den, by  Steuben.  2.  Battle  of  Leijizig, 
by  Reuchlhi.  3.  Battle  of  Balaclava, 
13th  (25th)  Oct.  1854,  by  Siilhodohby. 

4.  Death  of  General  Slepzov  in  tljc 
battle  near  the  river  Gech,  10th  22nd) 
Dec.  1851,  by  Frinre  Mal:sidoff.  5. 
Skirmish  of  Russian  and  Turkish 
troops  near  Sevastopol,  by  Willcicalde. 

Corridor. — Several  battle-pieces  by 
Bonrfjukjnou,  T.  Parrocel,  and  others. 

Poiirait  Gallerij.-l.  rield-:Marshal 
Prince  Volkonsky,  by  Krihjtr.  2. 
General  Prince  Chernychetf.    3.  Field- 


Marshal  Prince  Wittgenstein.  4. 
Cicneral  Prince  Orloff.  5.  General 
Count  Riidiger.  6.  General  Count 
Kisseleflf.  7.  Admiral  Prince  jMenclii- 
koff. — All  by  KriUjtr.  8.  Count  Nessel- 
roile,  Chancellor  of  the  Emjiire.  9. 
(Jeneral  Count  Benkendortf.  10. 
General  Prince  Vassilchikoff.  11. 
Field  Marshal  Prince  Bariatin.sky.  12. 
Prince  Kotchubey,  Chancellor  of  the 
Empire.  13.  Prince  A.  GaUtzin.  14. 
Prince  S.Galitzin.— All  hy  Bothcmann. 
15.  General  Count  Adlerberg.  16. 
General  Count  Kleinmichel. — 13oth  by 
KriUjer.  17.  Field-Marshal  Count 
Berg,  by  Stmnder. 

Field-Marshcd's  Room, — 1.  Takinc^of 
Wola,  25th  Aug.  (6tli  Sept.),  1831,  by 
Jlurare  Vernet.  2.  Gorgey  surrender- 
ing the  Hungarian  army  to  General 
Count  Eiid(  rs,  1st  (13th)  Aug.  1849, 
by  Wdleimhl.  3.  Prince  Suvoroff,  by 
FYod.  4.  Count  I'a^kevitch,  by  Kriiger. 
5.  Count  Rumianzoft",  by  Ries.  G. 
I*rince  Potemkin.  7.  Prince  Kutuzov, 
by  Jkdihtine.  8.  Count  Dibitsch,  by  the 
same. 

Hall  of  Ptter  the  Great. — Peter  at- 
tended by  the  Genius  of  Russia. 

Tlie  most  elegant  and  glittering 
apartment  is  tlie  (Irawing-room  of 
the  ]">mprcKs,  of  ^vlJici^  the  "walls 
and  the  ceiling  are  gilded.  The 
light  of  day  can  however  scarcely 
do  justice  to  all  the  magnificenco 
which  will  be  shown  to  the  visitor. 
The  art  of  illnnnnating  at  night  is 
nowhere  so  well  known  as  in  Russia, 
and  candles  are  still  happily  pre- 
ferred to  gas.  No  court  in  Europe 
l)resents  such  a  l)rilliant  aj)pearanco 
as  that  of  Russia  seen  in  the  Winter 
Palace.  Tlie  arrangements  are  on  the 
most  sumi)tuous  scale,  and  sit-down 
snjipers  are  always  supjdied  at  a  ball, 
whatever  the  number  of  the  invited 
may  be.  One  of  the  larger  halls  is 
sctmetimes  converted  into  a  garden  of 
delicious  verdure  by  the  introduction 
of  exotic  i)lants  and  fruit-trees.  On 
such  occasions  two  rows  of  tables 
extend  down  the  r(K)m,  each  over- 
shadowed by  a  beautiful  tree  in  full 
leaf,  under  which  the  dames  and  tiieir 
cavaliers,  in  groujjs  of  eight,  partako 


Eussia. 


Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Crown  Jeicels. 


83 


of  an  elegant  supper  after  the  fiitigues 
of  the  waltz  and  the  Mazurka.  An 
Imperial  table,  raised  and  apart,  com- 
mands the  whole  view. 

iVftcr  passing  through  the  state 
ai)a'-tments  and  galleries  the  visitor 
will  be  taken  to  sec  the  Romanolf 
Portrait  Gallery,  which  contiiins  tlie 
likenesses  of  all  the  Sovereigns  of 
the  reigning  House  since  IMichael  Fe- 
dorowitch,  and  those  of  their  consorts. 
Peter  the  Great  will  be  seen  suspended 
in  many  frames.  At  the  door  of  this 
gallery,  to  the  right  on  entering,  ob- 
serve a  green  curtain  driiwn  over  a 
tablet.  It  conceals  the  rules  which 
Catherine  enforced  at  her  conversazione 
in  the  Hermitage,  which  begins  here. 
The  following  is  a  translation  of  those 
rules : — 

1.  Leave  your  rank  outside,  as  well  as  your 

bat,  and  especially  your  sword. 

2.  Leave  your  right  of  precedence,  your  pride, 

and  any  ^imiiar  feeling,  out>ide  the  door. 

3.  Be  gaj',  but  do  not  spoil  anything;  do  nut 

break  or  gnaw  anything. 

4.  Sit,  stand,  walk  as  you  will,  without  refer- 

ence to  anybody. 

5.  Talk  moderately  and  not  very  loud,  so  as 

not  to  make  ihe  ears  and  heads  of  others 

ache. 
C.  Argue  without  anger  and  without  cxcitc- 

ni<?nl. 
7.  Neither  sigh  nor  yawn,  nor  make  anybody 

dull  or  heavy. 
'8.  In  all  innocent  games,  whatever  one  pro- 

lK)ses,  let  all  join. 
^  9.  1-^t  whatever   is  sweet  and   savoury,  but 

drink  with  moderation,  so  tliat  each  may 

tind  his  legs  on  leaving  the  room. 
10.  Tell  no  tales  out  of  school;  whatever  goes 

in  at  one  ear  must  go  out  at  the  other 

before  leaving  the  room. 

A  transgressor  against  these  rules  shall,  on 
the  testimony  of  two  witnesses,  for  every  oiTVnce 
drink  a  glass  of  cold  water,  not  excepting  the 
Luiits,  and  further  read  a  page  of  the  Tclema- 
chiade  ♦  aloud. 

Whoever  breaks  any  three  of  these  rules  dur- 
ing the  same  evening  shall  commit  six  lines  of 
tlie  Telemachiade  to  memory. 

And  whoever  offends  agauist  the  tenth  rule 
shall  not  again  be  admitted. 

Beyond  this  gallery  is  another  long 
narrow  room,  in  which  the  traveller 
will  Und  numerous  oil  paintings  repre- 
senting St.  Petersburg  at  various 
stages  of  consti'uction. 

♦  By  Trotiakof>ky,  an  unfortunate  native 
poet,  whose  muse  was  thus  reviled. 


Before  going  down  stairs  to  see  the 
room  in  which  Nicholas  I.  died,  ask  to 
see  the  Crown  Jewels,  deposited  iu  a 
room  on  the  2ud  floor. 

Crown  Jewels. — The  great  Orloff  dia- 
mond surmounts  the  Imperial  sceptre 
of  Russia,  and  is  a  worthy  ornament 
for  the  endilem  of  a  dominion  so  ex- 
tensive. This  splendid  diamond  was 
an  acquisition  made  in  the  reign  of 
Catherine  II.  Its  previous  history  has 
been  represented  by  stories,  not  only 
dilierent,  but  contradictory.  One  tra- 
dition rife  in  Russia  and  tlie  neigh- 
bouring Asiatic  countries  has  sought 
to  exiiluinthe  great  dift'erence  between 
the  weight  of  the  Koh-i-noor  and  the 
original  weight  of  a  vast  diamond 
which  belonged  to  Shah  Jehaun,  with 
which  it  was  confounded  by  Tavernier, 
on  the  supposition  that  the  Koh-i-noor 
and  a  slab  now  at  Kokan  are  the 
severed  fragments  that  once  combined 
to  form  that  huge  diamond  of  793 
carats,  and  it  has  even  been  suggested 
that  tiie  Orloff  diamond  formed  once 
a  part  of  the  same  stone.  Tavernier, 
however,  mentions  that  this  stone  was 
ruined  in  the  process  of  cutting,  while 
the  true  history  of  the  Koh-i-noor  goes 
back  to  at  least  the  time  of  Baber ; 
whereas  Bernier  describes  the  huge 
diamond  alluded  to  as  having  been 
found  in  Golconda  in  the  time  of 
Shah  Jehaun.  Furthermore,  the  Orloff 
diamond  exhibits  to  a  practised  eye  a 
faint  tint  of  .  greenish  yellow,  while 
the  Koh-i-noor  is  colourless.  The 
most  authentic  of  the  many  stories 
about  the  diamond  appears  to  be  this. 
It  once  formed  the  eye  in  an  idol  in  a 
temple  at  Seriugham,  near  Trichino- 
l)oly,  in  India.  Into  this  temple  a 
French  renegade  soldier  introduced 
himself  in  a  menial  capacity,  and  took 
his  opportunity  to  despoil  the  idol  of 
its  precious  eye.  Escaping  to  Malabar 
with  his  prize,  he  sold  it  to  a  ship's 
cai)tain  for  a  sum  of  2000  guineas, 
from  whom  a  Jew  acqiiired  it  for 
12,000  guineas.  An  Armenian  mer- 
chant. Lazareft'  (called  in  one  account 
Scliafras  ,  purchased  it  from  the  Jew, 
and  olfeved  it  for  sale  at  the  ctiurt  of 
the  Russian  Empress.    Catherine  II. 

F  3 


84 


Boute  1. — St.  PrterHhurg  :  Crown  Jeicels. 


Sect.  I. 


•lid  not  accept  the;  tcnus  of  the  Aiiiu'- 
iiian,  and  lie  boro  it  ])ack  to  Anister- 
dani.  It  was  lierc  tlmt  tho  namo  of 
Orlolt  became  associated  with  that  of 
the  spkMidid  jewel ;  ibr  the  famous 
Count  purdiased  it,  and  laid  it  as  a 
.nift  at  the  feet  of  his  Imperial  mistress. 
The  })rico  is  stated  to  have  been 
450.000  silver  rubles,  a  life  annuity 
of  2000  rubles,  and  a  patent  of  no- 
bility. Another  account  makes  it  a 
part  of  the  spoils  of  Nadir  Shah,  and 
an  ornament  in  the  throne  he  took 
from  the  Moj;ul  Emperor;  antl  the 
traditional  French  grenadier  in  tliis 
account  escapetl  with  it  at  the  death 
of  that  conqueror.  This,  however,  is 
evidently  only  an  echo  or  a  tradition 
of  the  authentic  story  of  Achmet  Shah 
and  tlie  Koh-i-noor,  and  tho  history 
as  j2;iven  above  would  seem  to  l)e  tlie 
most  authentic.  The  En^'lish  jewel- 
lers call  the  <liamond  the  *•  Kffin;^:- 
ham."  Tlie  word  is  probably  a 
traditioual  corruption  of  the  name 
Serin^^ham. 

This  stone  weijjhs  194^  carats  (the 
Ivoh-i-Xoor  as  it  came  from  India 
weighed  ISBj'g,.  It  cxliibits  a  Haw  in 
the  direction  ])robably  of  a  cleavage 
plane  in  its  interior,  a  little  way  from 
one  of  its  edges,  and  a  slight  feather 
or  black  stain  in  another  part  of  its 
internal  substance.  In  other  respeels 
it  is  a  stone  of  the  greatest  beauty,  and 
is  the  largest,  as  the  Pitt  diamond,  of 
France,  is  the  most  beautiful,  of  all 
the  Crown  diamonds  of  FuroiJC. 

The  Imperial  Crown  of  all  tlie  Pais- 
sias  is,  as  might  be  expected,  adorned 
with  n(ible  jewels.  In  outline  resem- 
bling somewhat  tho  dome  -  formed 
patriarchal  mitre,  it  carries  on  its 
.-ummit  a  cross,  formed  of  live  Iteau- 
tiful  diamonds,  and  su])ported  by  a 
very  large  uncut  but  polished  spinel 
ruby.  Eleven  great  <liamonds  in  a 
foliate<l  arch  rising  from  tlit^  front  and 
back  of  the  crown  support  this  ruby 
and  its  cross,  and  on  either  side  of 
this  central  arch  a  hoop  of  38  vast 
and  i»orfect  pearls  imparts  to  the 
Imperial  diadem  tho  mitre-like  aspect, 
which  may  be  held  to  typify  the 
exaltation  of  the  Sovereign  into  the 
.sphere  of  the  ancient  suiK*rseded  patri- 


archate. The  domed  sjiaces  on  either 
side  of  these  arches  of  pearls  are  filled 
with  leaf-work  and  ornaments  in  silver 
covered  with  diamonds,  and  underlaid 
by  purple  velvet.  Tin;  band  on  which 
tlie  crown  is  supported,  and  which 
surrounds  the  lnows  of  tlus  Ihujxjror, 
carries  28  great  diamonds.  The  orl>  is 
surmounted  by  a  large  sa])])iure.  of  a 
rich  but  .slightly  greenish  blue  cohtur, 
with  a  large  (liani<»nd  <»f  tlu-  finest 
water,  and  of  elongated  form. 

The  coronet  of  the  Empress  is 
perhaps  the  most  beautiful  mass  i>f 
diamonds  I'ver  l»rought  together  into 
a  single  ornament.  Four  of  tlie  largest 
of  these  stones  are  of  perfect  beauty, 
and  beside  these  are  16  or  18  similar 
to  them,  but  of  somewhat  smaller 
dimensions;  tiiere  are  70  or  80  other 
diamonds  of  no  less  exquisite  water, 
and  the  whole  are  surrounded  and  set 
witli  a  great  number  of  stones,  fit  in 
j)oint  «if  quality  to  be  associated  with 
them. 

Besides  these  cf)stly  emblems  o{' 
royalty  there  are  several  other  sj)eci- 
mens  of  jewellery  wortliy  to  bear  th«»m 
I'ompany.  One  of  these  is  a  diamond 
nei'khn'e,  each  stone  of  it  worth  ;ui 
argosy.  com]>osed  of  22  single  vast 
diamonds,  from  wliich  1")  huge  j)eml«'nt 
.stones  are  sui)ported. 

Tlu'  i)lume  (»f  Suvoroff,  an  aigrette 
composi'd  entirely  of  diamonds,  was 
one  of  tho.se  gifts  which  the  wealtliy 
but  weaker  neighbour  makes  to  the 
man  of  strength.  It  was  jiresented  by 
the  Sultan  of  Turkey  to  the  conquering 
Kussian  general. 

Another  o(  these  memorials  f»f  tho 
res])ect  entertjiined  for  Kussia  by  her 
Mohammedan  neighbours  is  the  un- 
mounted but  beautiful  diamond  pre- 
sented by  the  younger  son  of  Abbas 
Mirza  to  the  EnqKror  of  Russia  on 
the  occasion  of  his  visiting  tin-  im- 
perial court.  It  is  named  '*  tlie  Shah." 
It  is  a  long  crystal  of  diamond  weigh- 
ing 3G  carats,  and  but  very  little 
altered  by  cutting  from  its  original 
form.  It  has,  moreover,  Persian 
characters  engrave<l  on  it,  and  a  small 
groovi'  cut  round  its  end  to  give 
attjichment  probably  to  the  mounting 
that    once    may    have    supported    it. 


Iiiissi.a. 


Boufe  1. — St.  Pefcrshurg  :  The  Hermitage* 


85 


Among  tho  many  other  curiosities 
}>reserved  as  crown  jewels  are  .several 
btrings  of  truly  Imperial  pearls,  a  fine 
spinel  ruliy,  and  an  order  of  St.  An- 
drew, with  five  i)ink  diamonds  and 
two  large  Siberian  ))eryls  or  aqua- 
marines, one  of  the  greenish,  and  one 
of  tile  mor(!  blue  tint,  mounted  in 
diamonds. 

Itouiii  ill  It'll tch  NirJiohts  T.  dud. — A 
melancholy  interest  attaches  to  tliis 
room,  whicji  will  be  shown  last  to  the 
visitor.  On  a  narrow  iron  camp  bed- 
stead, in  the  smallest  and  ])laiiust 
ai)artnient  oi'  the  va.st  Palace,  tlie 
iMuperor  Nicholas  expired  on  the  2nd 
]March,  185."».  lie  was  sutlering  from 
inrtuenza.  and  had  just  heard  of  the 
nnsnccessfnl  attack  upon  l^ipatoria, 
and  his  st»'rn,  judud  sjtirit  refused  to 
.submit  to  any  further  «arthly  ills. 
His  gray  military  cloak  lies  folded  on 
the  hanl  bed.  His  sword  and  helmet 
are  where  \w.  left  theii>.  On  the  table 
is  tlu!  report  <»f  ihe  Qnartermastei- 
(»eneral  <»n  the  strength  uf  tlie  llun>e- 
intld  trooj».>,  delivered  to  the  Km|ten>r 
oil  the  morning  of  the  day  he  died. 
The  simplicity  anauiil  is  that  of  the 
l>arrack-rooiii.  The  elegance  of  art 
and  the  luxury  of  civilization  are  alike 
absent.  The  apjtnrtenanees  of  the 
toilet,  still  in  their  place,  are  few  and 
simple.  A  peculiarity  of  habit  will 
])('  observed  in  the  pockit-haialker- 
ehiefs,  which  lie  on  every  available 
article  of  furniture.  A  Gnnadier  of 
the  (Jolden  (iiiard  of  the  Palace  is 
always  on  duty  over  these  relics  of  the 
'•  nt'ver-to-be-lbrgotten  Tsar." 


4.  21ir  IIerm'd<t(je.-' — This  gallery 
and  museum  was  founded  by  Catlierin(^ 
the  Great,  originally  in  a  .small 
pavilion  attached  to  the  Winter  Pa- 

*  Admission  f!;ratis.  The  Hermitage  is  closed 
the  wIk.I.?  of  July  and  August  (old  style)  .is 
v.-.-ll  us  on  all  mreut  Lolydays,  but  at  any  other 
time  is  open  daily,  except  on  Fridays,  between 
February  and  .1  uly  from  10  a.m.  to  4  p.m.,  and 
from  S'ptember  to  Fel)ruary  between  lu  a.m. 
and  ;J  p.m,  Uut  even  on  Fridays,  or  during  the 
moiitlis  otJuly  and  August,  exceptions  to  the 
rule  will  iv  made  by  the  Director  in  favour  of 
the  traveller. 


lace,  and  built  by  Valliu  de  la  Motte, 
a    French  architect,    in   ITGo.      The 
Pavilion  was  intended  l)y  the  empress 
as  a  refuge  from  the  cares  and  duties 
of  government,  and  hence  was  called 
the  Hermitage.    Her  leisim-  moments 
and  her  evenings  were  spent  there  in 
convers.ation  with  philosophers,  men 
of  letters,  and  artists.    Ten  years  later 
Catlierine   caii.sed  the  .second  part  of 
the  Hermitage  to  be  built  l)y  Velten, 
for  the  reception  of  pictures.     It  was 
united  to  the  Pavilhm  by  an  arch  in 
the  form  of  ii  In'idge.     The  Theatre  of 
the   Hermitage   was   added   in  1780, 
and  joined  to  the  other  parts  of  the 
buihiing   by  an  arch  thrown   over  a 
small  canal  at  a  point  where  the  Moika 
1-i.ses  in  the  Ni^va.    But  the  Hermitage 
as    it  at  present  stands  was  entirely 
reconstructed  by  Leo  von  Klenze,  of 
Munich,  between  1840  and  1 850.     The 
architect  selected  the  Greek  style  in 
l>reference  to  that  of  the  lienaissaiice, 
Avliich  would  have  been  more  in  keep- 
ing with  the  buildings  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  :  V»ut  for  elegance,  jnirity 
(»f  aiciiitecinral    ibrms,    and    for   tho 
beauty   as    Well  as   co;*tliness  of  the 
mat^-rials  employed,  this  museum  has 
scarct4y    any    equal     in    i^irojte.       It 
forms    a     i)aralleh»grain     ol."*    ft.    by 
oT.?.   with   two   large   courts,  and   is 
a}>proaclied  1)y  a  noble  vestibule,  sup- 
jtorted  by  ten' figures,  of  a  hard  grey 
granite,  measuring  22    ft.  with  their 
pe«U-stals.         Statues     of     cilebrated 
painters,  sculptors,  and  other  artists, 
ancient    and    modern,   fill  nmnerous 
niches  in  the  walls,  to  which  an  ex- 
cellent a])pearauce  of  stone  has  been 
given.     The  roof  of  the  hall  is  sup- 
ported by  IG  cohunns,   mcmoliths  of 
the  finest  granite  from  Finland,  ter- 
minating in  capitals  of  Carrara  marble. 
The   .stairs,    in    three   fiights,   are   of 
marble,  Init  the  walls  on  either  side 
are  only   scagliola.     A  gallery  runs, 
round  thetq)  of  the  .staircase,  adorned 
with  twenty  monoliths  of  grey  granite. 
In  this  stand  10  marble  statues  :  Cain 
and  Abel,  by  l)upre;  a  Bacchante,  by 
lUenaime;  and  others.     Two  magni- 
ficent   .stands   for   candelabra   of  the 
finest  violet  jasper  from  Siberia  stand 
at  the  doors  at  each  end  of  the  gallery. 


86      Bou'e  1. — St.  Peterslurg :  The  Hermitage  ;  Pictures.      Sect.  I. 


Russia.     Route  I.— St.  Petersburg :  TJie  Hermitage ;  Pictures.     87 


It  is  'advisable  to  begin  with  the 
picture  galleries  on  the  tirst  tl(X)r, 
leaving  the  museiims  below  for  a  «iib- 
sequeut  visit. 


First  Floor. 

Picture  Galleries. — The  Herniitnge 
Gallery  is  chiefly  co]ni)osed  of  three 
celebrated  C(»llections.— 1.  That  of  jNIr. 
Crozat,  Biiron  de  Thiers.  2.  The  Wal- 
pole  Collection,  purchased  in  177D  for 
35,000/.  The  best  i)ictures*  in  tlie 
jiallery  are  from  Houghton  Hall;  viz., 
tS'J  Itidian,  75  German,  7  Spanish,  and 
.5  English.  3.  Eleven  pictures  from 
the  Choiseul  Gallery,  purchased  for 
107,001  livrcs.  Many  other  additions 
have  subsequently  been  made.  Thirty- 
eight  pictures  of  the  Mnluiaison 
Collection,  formed  by  the  Empress 
Josephine,  were  bought  in  1S14  for 
940,000  francs,  many  of  them  hrving 
belonged  to  the  Lnndgraves  of  Hesse 
and  Cassel,  spoliated  by  the  French  in 
1806.  The  Spanish  Gallery  of  IMr. 
W.  G.  Coesvelt,  banker  at  Amsterdam, 
was  acquired  in  181 1  for  8700/. ;  and 
Dr.  Crichton,  an  English  resident  at 
St.  Petersburg,  afterwards  knighted, 
sold  to  this  gallery  seven  of  the  pictures 
in  his  collection.  On  the  death  of  tlie 
Queen  Hortense  of  Holland,  thirty  of 
the  best  pictures  of  the  collection  passed 
over  t<5  the  Hermitage  for  the  sum  of 
180,000  francs.  TJio  Darbarigo  Col- 
lection was  i)urehased  by  the  EmiKror 
Nicholas  in  1850,  as  well  as  some  hue 
])ictures  from  the  celebrated  gallery  of 
the  late  King  AVilliam  II.  of  Holland. 
From  the  Soult  C<'llecti()n  tlie  Her- 
mitage possesses  a  Sebastian  del  Piom- 
bo  (No.  17),  a  Zurbaran  (340),  and  a 
Murillo  (373).  The  most  recent  ad- 
ditions are  the  fresco  ])ictures  jiur- 
chased  by  INIr.  Guedc'onoif  in  1801,  at 
tlie  same  time  as  part  of  thc^  Canq)ana 
Museum. 

The  Hermitage  Gallery  at  jiresent 
contains   1035  pictures,  selected  from 

\       *  The  letter  W.  will  (U-note  these  whenever 
tbey  occur  in  the  obse;^•utiuus  that  follow. 


amongst  more  tlum  4000  specimens, 
the  remainder  being  distributed  in  the 
several  palaces.  The  Italian  school  is 
represented  in  the  gallery  by  331  pic- 
tures, the  Spanish  by  1 1 5,  tlie  Flemish, 
Dutch,  and  German  by  044.  the  Eng- 
lish by  8,  the  French  by  172,  while 
the  specimens  of  native  art  are  65  in 
number.  It  is  more  especially  rich  in 
tlie  Spanish  and  Flemish  Collections, 
having  no  less  than  20  Murillos  and 
G  Velasquez,  GO  lUibens.  34  Van 
Dycks,  40  Teniers,  10  Van  der  Heists, 
41  Kembrandts,  50  Wouwermans,  0 
Potters,  40  Jacob  Ivuvsdaels,  and  an 

7  •■ 

equal  numlter  of  Snyders.  This  is, 
moreover,  the  only  gallery  on  the 
Continent  that  contains  a  collection  of 
English  pictures. 

The  Hermitage  C< Election  was  care- 
fully examined  and  brought  into  its 
present  perfect  order  in  18G1  and  18(i2 
by  the  learned  and  celebrated  critic 
Dr.  Waagen,  of  Berlin,  who.se  work, 
'  Die  Gcniuldesammlung  in  der  Kaiser- 
lichen  Ermitage  zu  St.  Petersburg ' 
(jMuuich,  1864),  contains  mo.st  valu- 
al)le  informatifni  respecting  the  i)ie- 
tures  of  the  Hermitage. 

The  rooms  in  which  the  pictures  are 
placed  are  descrilxid  in  the  order  in 
which  they  should  be  visited.* 

The  (iailery  of  Historical  Painting 
at  the  top  f>f  the  staircase  need  not 
arrest  much  attention.  The  frescoes 
on  the  walls  re]»resent  the  jirogress  of 
Grecian  art.  There  are  eiglit  good 
specimens  of  modern  sculpture  by 
Vitali,  Giithe,  Houdon  (INIadame  Du 
Barri  as  Diana).  Bienaime',  and  others. 
The  vases  and  tables  of  pori)hyry  and 
malachite  are  as  it  were  an  introduc- 
tion to  the  magniiiceiit  .'^i)eeiniens  in- 
side. 

Room  II. — (The  numbers  are  marked 
over  the  inner  doors  in  Poman  nu- 
merals :  vide  })lan.)  Earger  iiictures 
of  Ifdlian  School.  (Beginning  opposite 
the  door  leading  from  the  staircase.) 

*  The  *  Catalogue  do  la  G.ilerie  dt  s  Tableaux,' 
by  Baron  di;  Ktehne,  muy  be  had  of  the  imrior, 
and  Very  gc.od  photugrajilis  of  llse  bs-t  piciurts 
may  be  jirorureil  fiom  M.  lia'ijcr,  Cuurt  book- 
seller, Ncvsky,  No.  5. 


)< 


No.  60,  Holy  Virgin,  by  Francia.*  73, 
St.  Sebastian,  by  Luini.     145,   Dead 
Clirist  attended  Ijy  Angels,  one  of  the 
few  pictures  by  Paul  Veronese  painted 
with  any  .sacred  feeling.     18,  Descent 
from  the  Cross,  a  rare  jiicture  of  great 
value  by  Sebastian  del  Piombo,  i)ur- 
chased  for  20,000  florins,  from  collec- 
tion  of  late   King   of  Holland.     50, 
Adoration  of  the  Shepherds,  l»y  Garo- 
falo.     61,  Chri.st  carrying  his  Cross, 
by    same    artist,    life-size    figures, 
with    very    line     and     characteristic 
heads,     80,  Portrait  of  an  Artist,  by 
Domenico.     135,  Perseus  and  Andro- 
meda,   a    very   fine    Tintoretto ;    the 
figure  of  Andromeda  for  colour  and 
beauty  of  form  is  equal  to  the  finest 
elibrt  of  Titian.     121,  Jupiter  and  lo, 
by     Schiavone,    remarkable    for     its 
landscape  background.     133,  the  Pe- 
surrection,  by  Tintoretto;  original  de- 
sign,   in    small    propf>rtions,    of    the 
enormous  picture  at  Venice,  and  illus- 
trative of  his   later  decorative  style. 
181,  David  with  the  head  of  (loliath, 
by  Guido  Keni,  with  dark  sliadows  in 
style  of  Caravaggio.     Above  it,  106, 
Christ  being  anointed  for  the  Sepul- 
chre,  a   fine    si)ecimen    of    Lodovico 
Caracci   (W.).     187,  Dispute    of   the 
Doctors,  a  capital  picture  by  Guido 
Peni,    of   whicli   the    engraving    l)y 
Sharp  is  so  well  known  (W.).     180, 
Cupid,  by  Domenicliino.     184,  Repose 
in  Egyi)t,  and  185,  Saint  Francis,  are 
])eautiful  works  of  the  same  period  by 
Guido  :  the  expression   of  trust  and 
rei)ose,  the  harmony,  clearness,  and 
warmth  of  the  cok)ur,  render  184  one 
of  the  most  attractive  of  that  artist's 
pictures.     101,  the  Virgin  at  School, 
also    l)y     (Juido,    is    much    admired 
for    the    grace    and    childlike    inno- 
cence of  the  group  engaged  in  needle- 
work.   There  are  11  pictures  by  Sal- 
vator  Rosa  in  this  room,  5  of  whicli, 
220   to   223  and   225,   are   from   the 

*  It  will  suffice  in  most  cases  to  mention  the 
iiuml)er  of  the  y.icture  and  the  painter  lo  whom 
we  desire  to  attract  attention.  Criticism  may 
be  considered  out  of  place  in  a  handlxjuk ;  the 
traveller  will  form  his  own  judtinK'nt  of  these 
works  of  art,  but  at  the  same  time  we  shall 
endeavour  to  point  out  the  most  remarkable 
l.ioiures,  wiili  the  addition  of  any  information 
mat  may  make  them  iiitcrebtiug  to  EnglL-hmeii. 


AVal.  Coll.  No.  220,  the  Prodigal 
Son,  was  one  of  the  treasures  of 
that  gallery.  215,  Ecce  Homo,  by 
Caravaggio,  painted  in  a  colder  tone 
than  liis  Young  Man  singing  and 
playing  the  Guitar  (217),  which  is 
more  transparent  in  the  shades  than 
usual  with  that  master.  230,  Portrait 
of  an  Actor,  by  Domenico  Feti.  310, 
Doge  of  Venice  marrying  the  Adriatic, 
by  Canaletto.  318  (pendant  to  310) 
represents  the  Reception  at  Venice  of 
Count  Gergi,  Ambassador  of  Louis 
XV.,  a  magnificent  and  most  interest- 
ing work  by  that  master.  307,  Por- 
trait of  Pope  Clement  IX.  by  Carlo 
Maratta  (\V.).  317  (above),  the  Feast 
of  Cleopatra,  who  is  seen  dissolving 
the  I'earl,  by  Tiepolo,  one  of  the  best 
and  largest  pictures  of  that  artist. 
255,  St.  Cecilia,  by  Carlo  Dolci,  in  the 
style  of  the  famous  picture  in  the 
Dresden  Gallery,  but  superior  to  it 
in  the  pleasuig  drawing  of  the  head  ; 
and  254,  St.  Catherine,  also  by  Carlo 
Dolci ;  heads  very  well  drawn. 

The  malachite  tables  and  vases  are 
very  handsome.  The  4  candelabra  are 
of  violet  jasper. 

Room  III.— Flemish  School.  The 
collections  of  this  School  begin  appro- 
priately with  rich  and  numerous  speci- 
mens of  Rubens  and  Van  Dyck,  of 
which  many  of  the  best  come  from  the 
Walpole  Collection. 

Beginning  on  the  rt.  hand :  543, 
^lary  Magdalene  washing  the  Saviour's 
feet,  is  the  principal  picture,  by 
Rubens,  in  the  Hermitage  (AV.) ;  there 
is  a  copy  of  it  by  Jordaens  in  the  next 
room.  535,  the  Exi)ulsion  of  Hagar, 
a  perfect  gem,  by  Rubens ;  a  sketch 
of  this  same  picture  is  in  the  Gros- 
venor  Gallery.  020  is  a  portrait  that 
will  interest  every  Englishman;  it  is 
that  of  Inigo  Jones,  by  Van  Dyck 
(W.).  GIG," Portrait  of  Philip  Lord 
Whart^^tn  at  the  age  of  19,  by  yan 
Dyck  (W.).  G12,  Archbishop  Laud, 
by  the  same  artist  (W.).  G33  and  G34 
are  portraits  of  English  ladies  by  the 
same  great  master.  G27,  P(»rtrait  of 
the  painter  Snyders  and  his  Wife.  On 
the  .same  wall  is,  57G,  Portrait  of 
Helen  Fourment,  Rubens'  second  wife, 


88 


Iloiife  1. — St.  Petersburg :  TJie  Hermitage, 


Sect.  T, 


PLAN  OF  THE  riCTURl-:  (JALLERIES  AT  THE  HERMITAGE, 


STAIRCASE 
OF   COUNCIL 


FRENCH 


CCtiOOU. 


nnir,  TX......  .w^ 


Ptussia.     Boutel. — St.  Petersburg  :  Tlie  Kermitage ;  Pictures.      89 


by  her  famous  hu.sljniul.  This  most 
graceful  lull-leuj;th  ligiiro  is  fre- 
quently copied ;  tlie  same  head  will 
Ixj  fouud  in  the  ])icture  culled  the 
ChajKniu  de  raillc  in  Sir  K(»hert 
i'eel's  colh'otioii  (W.).  Very  close  to 
it  on  tlie  rt.  is,  GOJ).  Iviiii;;  Charles  1., 
.sip;ned  '•  p.  t^r.  Aiit.  Vundike;"  for 
this  ]»icture  Van  Dyck  rect^ived  25/. 
(ilO.  Queen  Henrietta  Maria  is  the 
jieuihud  to  it,  l>oth  being  I'rom  tlie 
JIought«jn  Collection.  «)0:i  is  tlie  cele- 
brated Vierge  anx  IVrdreaux,  l)y  Van 
Dyck,  so  called  from  the  two  jtar- 
tridges  seen  Hying  away.  The  beauty 
of  the  gn^ip  of  ehildri'U  is  remark- 
able (W.);  018,  al»ove  the  portrait  of 
Henrietta  INIaria  arc  portraits  of 
thi^  Ladies  Elizabeth  and  Phila- 
delphia Wharton,  also  by  Van  Dyck 
(W.).  Tlu;  grim  figure  of  the  Knrl 
•  d"  Danby,  i)ainted  Ijy  tin-  same 
master,  will  be  seen  in  GIO  (W.).  017, 
Sir  Thomas  Whart<tn,  bv  A^an  Dyck 
(W.).  Giia  is  Kubens'  Wife  an<l  Child, 
painted  by  Van  Dyck :  compare  it 
with  r>75  (near  the  door  on  entering), 
JiUbeiis'  wife  at  a  later  period,  painted 
by  liuUns  :  the  dnss  and  gold  eliain 
art'  the  same  in  lM>tli  pietures.  Gl  I  is 
a  jdeasiug  jxatrait  «»f  WilUam  11.  of 
Nassau,  Prince  of  Orange,  when  a  b(»y. 
by  Van  Dyck  (W.).  549,  Venus  and 
Adonis,  a  rejx'tition  by  liubens  of  tia- 
l)icture  on  panel  at  the  Hague.  551. 
a  Bacchanalian  Scene,  )»y  the  same 
artist,  is  in  his  mostsitiritvd  style;  the 
satvrs  are  such  as  only  liubens  could 
liavi-  imagined  (W.).  G20,  Portrait  oL" 
Sir  Thomas  Chaloner,  by  Van  Dyck 
(W.).  Go2,  i'ortrait  t)f  a  gentleman, 
by  Van  Dyck,  is  a  line  specimen  (»f  his 
\YarmeEt  etdouring,  probably  painti'd 
at  (icnoa.  Git  is  a  sketch  by  Van 
Dyck  of  the  celebrated  largt*  picture  of 
the  Pembroke  Family  at  Wilton  ;  the 
Jvirl  of  Carnarvon  has  another  skcteh 
of  it.     621)  is  a  line  jiortrait  by  Van 

Dvck. 

There  are  2  candelabra  and  o  tazza 
of  violet  Siberian  jasper  in  this  room. 

lloom  I.  —  Spanish  SrhooL  The 
best  and  most  varied  e(»llecti(jn  of 
Si)anish  pieturis  out  of  Spain.  On  the 
l.ft-hand  wall  then}  are  no  h-ss  than 


IS  pictures  by  Murillo.     Begin  with 
3ui),  the  Holy  Family,  a  perfect  little 
gem,   but    ol)Scured    by  the   .shad(»w 
whieh  falls  irom  its  heavy  frame  (W.). 
.".75,  Celestine  and   her  Daughter  in 
])rison  at  S(^ville.     3G4,  Ad(»ratitni  of 
tlu-  Shepherds  ;  interesting  sketch  and 
variation  of  the  same   subject  in  the 
(Jallery    at   Seville.      3G0,    Benedic- 
tion <»f  Jacob  ;  itf^pciithdit,  350,  Jacob's 
Dream,  is  perhaps  one  of  the   most 
picturesque  productions  of  the  artist. 
372,  Angel  delivering  St.  Peter ;  from 
the  Sonlt  Collection,     l.'nder  it  is  one 
of  the  most  lovely  in.si)irations  of  this 
great    artist,   the    llepose  in    Egypt 
(3G7).   3G5,  St.  Joseph.    379,  St.  John, 
a  contemi)oraneous  copy  of  the  cele- 
l»rated  picture  in  the  National  (Tiallery 
in  London.     37S,  a  Peasant  Girl,  and 
377,   a   young  Beggar,  are  pendants. 
3G3,  Ad(H'ation  of  the  Shepherds,  a 
specimen  <»f  the  early  style  of  the  mas- 
ter (^V.).    3G2,  the  Conception,  treatc-d 
in  the  samo  grand  manner  as  the  large 
picture  at  Seville.     Leaving  the  Mu- 
riUos  for  the  present,  kxik  at  349,  St. 
Lawrence,  a  very  chiiracieristic  speci- 
jiieii    of   Fraueisctt    Ziul>aran ;    but  a 
rarer  and   more   i»leasing  example  of 
the  master  will  1m'  seen  in  348,  repre- 
senting the  Holy  Virgin  as  a  child. 
397,  a  sleephig  Child,  is  by  Antolinez. 
in  the  clear  tender  tones  of  Murillo. 
371,  the  Assumption  l»y  Murillo  (W.). 
In  this  beautilul  picture  the  Virgin 
has  the  same  youthful  form  as  in  the 
celebrated  picture  of  the  Sala  Isabella 
at  INIadrid,   to  wliich   for   grace   and 
])urity  of  expression  it  yields  in  no- 
thing, while  the  action  of  floating  in 
mid-air,   and   the   eifect   of    immense 
depth  beneath  the  buoyant  clouds  on 
which  the  lovely  group  of  children  are 
lM)rnc  upwards  witii  the  Virghi,  were 
never  Itetter  rendered.     373,  Appari- 
tion of  the  Infant  Jesus  to  St.  Francis 
of  Padua,  mu.4  conclude  our  mention 
of  the  jjictures  liy  Murillo.    The  best 
of  Vela.scpiez's,  out  of  the  G,  are  419 
and  420,    Portraits   of  Philip  IV.  of 
Spain,  and  421  and  422,  those  of  his 
^Minister,  d'Olivarcs.     The  full-length 
j)ortraits  came  here  from  tlie  Hague; 
418,  Pt»pe  Innocent  X.,  is  a  spirited 
portrait,  also  by  Veln.tjuez,  from  the 


90      Ttoutel. — St.  Pefcrslmrg  :  The  Hermitage ;  Pictures.      Sect.  I. 


AValp.  Coll.     331.  Death  of  St.  Sebas- 
tain,  by  Ribeira. 

The  stands  for  caiitlelabra  of  large 
masses  of  rose-coioured  porphyry  or 
rhodonite,  and  vases,  tazza,  and  tables 
of  lapis  lazuli  in  this  room,  arc  re- 
markably haudsome. 

RaphaeVs  Frescoes. — The  nine  fres- 
coes in  this  room  (which  may  bo  entered 
from  the  gem-room)  were  mitil  IHoGon 
the  walls  of  the  ground-floor  of  the 
Villa  Mdls  (Villa  Sj)a(la)  on  ]Mount 
Palatine,  at  Ixome.  Tiiey  were  pur- 
chased with  the  Campana  Museum  in 
18G1.  Mr.  GuedeonotY,  the  talented 
purchaser  of  tliat  collecticm  for  the 
llussian  Government,  considers  these 
tine  paintings  to  have  been  executed 
by  Raphael  and  liis  pupils  l)etween 
tiie  years  1512  and  1515.  The  great 
master  probably  made  the  sketches 
and  only  superintended  tlic  i)ainting. 

Professor  Waagen  considers  that 
Xos.  47,  48,  49,  51,  and  53  are  by  the 
hand  of  Giulio  Romano.  Tlie  Abduc- 
tion of  Helen  (No.  55)  is  a  celebrated 
composition,  frequently  repeated  on 
majolica,  as  seen  in  the  Campana  col- 
lection in  the  Louvre,  in  the  Bernal 
collection  at  the  British  ■Museum,  and 
in  Mr.  Abingdon's  collection.  Waagen 
fcays  it  must  have  been  painte(l  ])y  one 
of  Raphael's  best  scholars,  for  it  was  a 
favourite  subject  with  the  great  mas- 
ter, as  evident  from  the  drawings  at 
Chatsworth  and  Oxford.  It  was  de- 
tached from  the  wnll  of  Raphael's 
villa  near  the  I'orta  Pinciana. 

Room  IV. — 1,  Holy  Virgin,  l)y  Ve- 
rocchio,  marks  the  early  epocii  of  tlie 
Italian  Scliool,  as  also  doi'.s  2,  another 
Holy  Virgin,  by  Roselli.  No.  8,  Infant 
Jesus,  by  Lo  Spagna.  The  most  llou- 
risliing  period  of  Italian  painting  is 
represented  in  tlu^  following:  No.  24, 
Holy  Family,  a  very  line  picture  by 
Andrea  del  Sarto,  superior  to  the  du- 
plicate in  tlic  National  (itallery.  No. 
17,  Christ  carrying  his  Cross,  by  Se- 
bastian del  Piombo,  on  slate;  (jue  of 
the  finest  pictures  from  the  Soult  col- 
lection. No.  11),  Portrait  of  Cardinal 
Pole,  by  tlie  same  artist.  Th(!  Floron- 
tine  School  is  well  supported  ])y  No. 


14,  the  Holy  Family,  by  Leonardo  da 
Vinci ;  this  bears  a  striking  resem- 
blance to  Foster's  well-known  "  Vierge 
au  bas-relief."  But  the  oldest  and 
finest  picture  by  this  master  has  just 
been  ])urchased  of  the  Duke  di  Litta 
of  Milan  :— 14a,  ''  The  Holy  Virgin 
suckling  the  Infant  Jesus"  (on  a  stand 
near  the  window).  No.  15,  Portrait  of 
a  lady,  by  the  same  painter  (W.).  No. 
22,  Nativity  of  Jesus,  by  Granacci; 
one  of  his  best  works. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  objects 
in  this  room  is  an  unfinished  sketch  of 
a  small  crouching  figure  in  marbk*  by 
]\L  Angelo,  called  the  Tour  de  Force, 
evidently  rough  hewn  from  the  stone, 
without  model  or  preparation.  That  a 
ligure  of  tliis  size  could  1)0  produced 
from  a  small  block  of  marVde,  not 
larger  than  would  be  required  ibr 
a  full-sized  bust,  is  extraordinary 
enough  ;  but  the  position  seems  pur- 
posely to  have  been  chosen  by  that 
great  genius,  in  sport  as  it  were  wMth 
the  greatest  difficulties;  while  at  the 
same  time  it  may  have  served  to  dis- 
]»lay  his  knowledge  of  tlie  Torso  of  the 
Vatican,  or  his  idea  of  the  orighial 
position  of  that  celebrated  fragment. 
It  is  also  said  to  be  the  result  of  a 


wager. 


Room  V.  is  attractive  on  account  of 
its  Rajihaels.  On  a  stand  near  the 
window  will  be  seen  a  lx.'autiful  little 
l)icture  (3D),  by  that  great  master,  re- 
iJivsentiiig  St.  (lieorge  and  the  Dragon  : 
it  was  painted  in  150G  l)y  order  of  the 
Duke  <l'Urbino,  who  wished  to  present 
it  to  Henry  VII.  <»f  England,  in  return 
for  the  ()rcler  of  the  (Jaiter.  It  was 
first  in  the  Pembroke  (iallery,  then  in 
that  of  Charles  I.,  and  was  purchased 
by  the  Russian  Government  with  the 
Crozat  Collection,  It  long  served  as 
an  image  in  tlie  Hall  of  St.  George,  at 
the  Winter  Palace.  No.  37,  Holy  Vir- 
gin, painted  in  Raphael's  Florentine 
style,  and  known  as  the  ''  Ste.  Famillti 
au  St.  Joseph  imberbe,"  p.  in  15U7. 
No.  38  is  the  celebrated  Virgin  dc  la 
Maison  d'Albe.  No.  40,  a  remarkable 
porti-ait  l)y  Raphael,  incorrectly  called 
that  of  Sannazaro.  No.  74  is  the  j)or- 
trait  by  Luini  variously  termed  "  tlio 


Ilussia.     Boute  1. — St,  Petersburg  :  TJie  Hermitage  ;  Pictures,     91 


Columbine,"  "  Flora,"  and  "  Vanity," 
and  well  known  to  the  lovers  of  art : 
from  the  Hague,  where  it  passed  as  a 
Leonardo  da  Vinci.  No.  82  is  a  small 
sketch  for  the  ceiling  of  the  cathedral 
at  Parma,  by  Correggio.  Another 
picture  by  Correggio  will  be  found 
in  No.  82«,  ''  Maisyas  and  A[)ollo,"  by 
CoiTeggio,  one  of  the  four  pictures  of 
the  Litta  collection  recently  purchased. 

Room  VI.— 112,  Judith,  by  Moretto 
da  Brescia,  of  whom  it  is  one  of  the 
finest  specimens.  113,  Faitli,  by  the 
same  artist.  101,  Portrait  of  Pope 
Paul  III.,  by  Titian. 

Room  VII.  contains  the  celebrated 
Titians,  from  tlieBarl)arigo  collection  : 
—98,  Mary  IMagdalen.  99,  Toilet  of 
Venus,  loo,  Danae,  from  the  Crozat 
collection.  There  are  also  some  fine 
sketches  (Nos.  142,  149,  and  150)  by 
P.  Veronese. 

Room  VIII.  174,  Christ  in  the 
Garden  of  Olives,  by  Caracci.  177,  A 
young  girl  slee])ing,  by  the  same ;  veiy 
carefully  i»:iinted,  and  evidently  from 
nature.  17(5,  I'ortrait  of  Annibale 
Caracci,  by  the  artist  himself,  on  a 
panel  which  had  been  destined  for 
another  subject.  Through  the  trans- 
l)arent  dark  colour  of  the  background 
may  be  seen  the  outlines  of  a  life- 
sized  heail.  192,  Beatrice  Cenci,  re- 
petition after  Guido.  224,  Portrait  of 
a  poet,  by  S.  Rosa.  218,  Portrait  by 
Caravaggio.  223,  three  soldiers  play- 
ing at  dice,  very  characteristic  of  S. 
Rosa.  2G4,  Betrothal  of  St.  Catherine, 
by  Procaccini,  suggestive  of  Ktty. 
The  tazzas  near  the  window  are  of 
syenite  and  aventurine  ;  the  one  in  the 
centre  of  the  room  is  of  jasper. 

Room  IX.  289,  Pretty  head  of  a 
lx)y,  by  Luti  (W.)  ;  resembles  a  draw- 
ing in  jiastel,  for  which  this  artist  is 
chiefly  known.  257,  Holy  Virgin,  by 
Sassoferrato.  200a,  Head  of  tlie  Ma- 
donna, likewise  by  Sassoferrato.  309, 
St.  Sebastian,  by  Balcstra.  There 
are  several  pictures  by  C.  INIaratta  and 
Schidone  in  this  room.  The  small 
marble  statue  of  a  Cupid,  with  an  arch 


look,  is  by  Falconet,  whose  masterpiece 
is  the  equestrian  statue  of  Peter  the 
Great  in  the  Isaac's  Square. 

Room  X.is  the  last  of  the  Italian 
School,  and  is  called  the  Cabinet  of 
Luca  Giordano,  the  painter  of  the  large 
picture,  293,  Bacchus  asleep  (W.),  and 
of  294,  the  Judgment  of  Paris  (W.). 
229  and  230  are  marine  pieces,  by 
Salvator  Rosa.  320,  the  Rialto,  by 
Belloti,  is  quite  worthy  of  his  cousin, 
Canaletto. 

Room  XI.  Early  German  and 
Dutch  Schools. — The  portrait  of  Sir 
Thomas  Gresham,  the  founder  of  the 
Royal  Exchange,  by  Sir  Antony  More 
(480),  will  be  of  interest  to  the  English 
visitor ;  it  is,  moreover,  one  of  the  best 
specimens  of  that  painter.  481  is 
Lady  Gresham,  by  the  same  artist 
(W.).  444,  the  Crucifixion  and  Last 
Judgment,  by  Christophsen.  445,  St. 
Luke,  a  very  good,  though  solitary, 
specimen  of  Memling.  449,  Corf)na- 
tion  of  the  Holy  Virgin,  by  Quentin 
IMatsys.  443,  the  only  specimen  of 
Jan  Van  Eyck,  Tlie  Salutation,  Waa- 
gen says,  must  have  been  painted  be- 
tween 1433  and  1434,  for  it  bears 
a  great  resemblance  to  the  picture  by 
the  same  artist  in  the  National  Gal- 
lery, and  which  is  known  to  have 
been  painted  in  1433,  460,  a  Portrait, 
by  Holbein.  4G7,  Portrait  of  Edward 
VI.  of  England,  is  either  a  copy  or  a 
repetition  of  Holbein.  It  was  once  in 
Charles  I.'s  collection,  and  was  pur- 
chased by  Lord  AValpole  on  the  death 
of  that  monarch,  whose  enlightened 
judgment  and  taste  for  art  w'cre  so 
remarkable,  that,  if  his  gallery  had 
remained  the  property  of  the  nation, 
we  should  have  possessed  the  finest 
museum  of  pictures  in  the  world. 
Nineteen  of  the  best  pictures  in  the 
Louvre,  44  of  the  most  valuable  in 
the  Museo  at  jMadrid,  three  or  four  in 
the  Belvedere  collection  at  Vienna, 
and  the  two  in  the  Hermitage,  will 
give  some  idea  of  the  treasmx-s  we 
have  lost. 


Room  XIL- 
mans.      Paul 


-Potter,  Tenters,  Wonver- 
Potter.  — 1055,   Watch 


92      Ttonte  1. — St.  Peter fthmr/ :  The  Hermitarje  ;  Pictiirei^.      Sect.  I. 

i';i.u,L;ot.s;  the  \volf  fuul  tlio  fox  nicaii- 
Avliilc  Imnging  two  of  the  jicoomplicos. 
A  luoiilccy  oil  the  t()p  of  the  2:allow.s 
acts  as  assistant  executioner.  The  joy 
of  tlu!  animals  at  their  deliverance  is 
wonderfully  jjortrayrd;  the  goat  is 
cutting  capers,  and  tlic  wolf  rolling  on 
the  ground  with  laughter  and  delight, 
lor).'!,  tlie  Jlnnter's  Halt.  lor)4,'th(^ 
Cows,  and  1057.  a  Iiandsca]>e.  Thert^ 
are  0  specinu'iis  of  Paul  Potter  in  the 
Jlerniit;ig(i;  lOill.  1052,  and  1055  are 
from  the  ]Maliiiais<»u  CoHection. 

Teniers. — {'»'.)'.),  Kitchen  seizt'd  hv 
Alonkeys.  ((72.  tlie  Ar(|Uel)Usiers  of 
Antweri).  'j'he  iigures  are  mostly  por- 
traitsof  the  period  ;  Teniers  himself  is 
hciiig  admitted  m(!nd)er  of  the  corjis. 
I'etween  tliese  two  screens  will  he 
I'ound  (!very  descrij»lion  of  ])ictLire  that 
'I'eniers  painted — landscapes,  cattle, 
historical  jtortrait^.  and  even  a  sea- 
piece  (710).  (JO'.I  :iiid  070  are  laiid- 
sesipcs  hy  Truieis  tli<-  elder.  70S  and 
70r>.  in  circular  frauu's.hv  the  ve»un!.rer 
Teuiers.  are  pleasing  suhjects,  cliariii- 
inulv  tnateil.  07o.  the  <  iuardliouse, 
l)aiiite<l  1012;  G77,  the  Wi-dding  IJan- 
quet;  074.  Village  Fete,  are  all  hy  the 
same  master-liand,  as  well  as  the  large 
]»icture,  OtJS,  Interior  of  a  Kitchen  ; 
the  artist  ajtjxars  here  sis  the  land- 
1  inl  ( W.).  (070.  OSS,  and  700  are  also 
from  Wu\\K  Coll.). 

AVouvermaiis. — The.se  aret(M>  nume- 
r<fus  1o  he  particularised.  lOlJl  and 
hKVl  are  perfect  gems.  Tiu'  pictun-s 
I'V  Wouvermaiis  in  the  last  compart- 
naut  are  (Jijually  g<K»d.  1017  is  «»ne  of 
the  few  j»ictures  known  of  that  artist 
without  a  white  liorse.  They  are  all 
well  w<trth  examhiation. 

.Vfter  inspecting  Koom  XII.  the 
visitor  will  do  well  t<»  relieve  tiie  eye 
]•}'  ])roceeding  to  gaze  on  other  ohjeets. 
A  door  in  tlie  next  room,  XIII.,  opens 
on  the  staircase  of  the  Council  of  the 
I'jupire.  An  innnense  vase  of  mala- 
chite stiinds  at  the  toj)  of  the  stjiirs. 
The  <kM>r  to  the  right  leads  to  the 
apartments  (»f  the  old  IIermit;ige 
(  Flench  gallery — reached  IVom  the 
Gem  r<x)m).  The  <loor  on  the  left 
opens  into  a  gallery,  bey<md  which  is 
a  small  ball-nxmi  of  whiter  marhle, 
littt'd  up  in  the  nio^it  exquisite  taste. 


Dog,   the   perfectitin   of   animal    por- 
traiture; the  brilliancy  of  the  eye,  and 
the  texture  of  the  dog's  matted  C()at, 
are  admiraldy  rendered  ;  for  freedom 
of  treatment  it  oilers  a  remarkable  con- 
trast to  the  careful  linisli  of  1051,  and 
the  bold  large  signature  on  the  kennel 
shows  that  tlie  artist  was  not  ashamed 
of  it.     1058,  r.ull.      1051),  a  litth'  I5oy 
looking  at  a  white  Horse.    1050,  Laiid- 
scape,  a  beautitul  study  of  trees  and 
jdants,  with  a  charming  peep  of  dis- 
tant landscape;  tiie  Iigures  in  the  sun- 
light and  tho.sf  in  the  shade,  eciuaily 
good;    the  latter   are  lishing,   and   a 
jwrcli  can  be  distinguished  in  the  net. 
1051,  the  Farmyard,  considered  to  be 
I'otter's   ma.stei])iece,  signed  1010;   a 
])icture    of    inestimable    beauty    and 
value,  displaying  in  perfection  eviry 
quality   for  which  this  great  ]ia  inter 
was  remarkable.     1052,  the  Hnntcr's 
Life.     This  will  Ur  found  one  of  th(t 
most  ;imusing  ]>ictnrts  in  the  gallery  : 
in  12  compartments  it  represents  dif- 
ferent   sporting    subjects,    and    in    2 
others   the   ultimate   revenge    of   the 
animals  on  the  cruelty  of  man  :    I,  St. 
nul>ert;    2,   Ctairsing;  o,   Diana    and 
ActsDon  (painted  by  C.  I'oelenburg); 
4,  Chamois-liunter ;   5,  Ferreting;    0, 
liear-hnnt ;  7.  Leo])ard  aljout  to  sjtring 
into  a  traj*,  attracted  by  his»»wn  relKc- 
tion  in  a  h)oking-glass  placed  witliin 
it;  8,  Catching  INIonkeys  by  means  ol' 
a  di.sh  of  gum-water,  with  wlii«*U  they 
glue   their  eyes    in  imitation  of  men 
washing;  9,  AVolf-iiunting ;  10,  Doar- 
hunt;  11, Lion-hunt;  12,  Ihill-bidting. 
The  upper  centn;  compartment  shows 
the  hunter    caught    and   brought   to 
judgment  before  tlu^  lion.  whoprc,-,i(les. 
surrouiuh'd  by  his  conns«41ors;  tlu- fox 
acting  as  clerk.  The  bear  i>erforms  tla; 
office  of  head  constsible,  and  a  wolf  on 
€iach  side  of  the  huntsman  keep  him  in 
safe  custody.     A  bear  aial  a   boar  aic 
briiiging  up  two  braces  of  houmls,  the 
accomplices   of  man,    while  the  stag- 
stands   jiroudly  waiting  to  givit   evi- 
dence.    The  si-nleiict!  of  death  is  car- 
ried out  in  the  lower  <livision,  wher<' 
the  hunter  is  being  roasted  over  a  lire, 
and   basted   l)y   a   boar   and   a  goat, 
while  2  bears  turn  the  si)it.     A  mon- 
key and  an  elephant  arc  bringing  up 


Piussia.      lloute  1. — St.  Petershurg :  The  Hermitar/e  ;  Pictures.       93 


I 


This  is  the  original  Pavilion  built  by 
Catherine  II.  Light  galleries  of  gold 
tr(  llis-work,  supported  by  elegant 
white  columns,  run  round  this  beauti- 
ful room,  which  was  designed  by  INIr. 
Stakenschneider,  court  architi-ct.  The 
,-<yle  is  Uenaissance.  w  ith  an  admix- 
ture of  the  Moorish  and  antique.  A 
])ortion  of  the  Hoor  is  inlaid  with 
mosaic.  Two  marble  fountains,  after 
the  motlcd  (<f  a  celebrated  fountain  at 
Dakhchisarai,  in  the  Crimea,  staial  at 
the  further  end  of  the  room.  The 
^vater,  when  laid  on.  falls  from  one 
sh(41  into  the  other  with  the  most  deli- 
cious murmur,  (illass  doors  ojKii  into 
a  conservatory  of  exotic  plants.  Balls 
are  given  liere  in  winter  ti>  a  limited 
nuniber  of  guests.  The  view  of  the 
jiver  from  the  windows  is  mostcharm- 
ing.  A  ]»ortrait  of  Cath(.'rin»!  II.,  by 
Tijimpi,  the  l>est  ever  made,  is  sus- 
pended in  this  rtMtm.  together  with 
ihat  of  the  cons»u-t  of  the  hlmperor 
l':iul.  hy  ]Mlue.  Ii<'brun. 

Koom  XIH.  I'liijh'yli  tSchotil  nud 
UcmhrdiidCs  Oullenj. — The  tirst  small 
<  om]»artment  is  devoted  to  Fnglish 
l»ietures.  Conspicuous  amongst  these 
isi:>01,  the  Infant  Hercules  strangling 
the  Serpents,  iiainted  for  the  Knqtress 
Catherine  II.  by  Sir  Joshua  Keynolds. 
It  is  an  allegory  of  Russia  vanquish- 
ing the  ditiiculties  which  beset  its 
youthful  stiite.  This  ])icture.  thiished 
tw(»  years  before  his  death,  was  paint<'d 
by  order  of  the  Empress  Catherine, 
whose  commission  was  unlimited  botii 
in  subject  and  in  price.  The  [jrice  ])aid 
for  it  was  1500  guineas.  So«»n  after 
the  i»icture  arrivetl  at  St.  Petersburg, 
Count  Woronzow,  the  Ilussian  ambas- 
.sador,  waited  on  Sir  J.  Ihynolds  to 
inform  him  that  the  empress  had  re- 
ceived the  picture,  as  well  as  two  sets 
of  his  Discourses,  one  in  F^nglish  smd 
(»ne  in  F^reiich.  which,  at  the  desire  of 
11.  I.  M.  had  been  sent  with  the  pic- 
ture. This  message  was  accomi)aiiied 
by  a  gold  snuft'-box,  with  the  empress's 
])ortra  it  encircled  with  large  diamonds. 
The  ambas.sador  also  left  with  Sir 
Josliua  a  copv  of  the  following  h-t- 
ter  ;— 

";Monsieur  Ic  Conite  Woronzow— I 


have  read,  and  T'may  say  with  the 
greatest  avidity,  the  Discourses  pro- 
nounced at  the  lioyal  Academy  of  Lon- 
don by  Sir  Joshua  lleynolds.  which  that 
illustrious  artist  sent  me  with  his  large 
picture;  in  both  ]>rfKluctions  a  most 
elevat«'d  genius  may  easily  be  traced. 
I  recommend  vou  to  give  my  thanks  to 
Sir  Joshua,  and  to  remit  to  him  the 
box  I  send  as  a  testimony  of  the  great 
satisfaeti<»n  the  jjcrusal  of  his  Dis- 
courses has  given  me,  and  which  I 
kK»k  upon  as  perhajis  the  l>est  work 
that  ever  was  written  on  the  subject. 
y\y  ]>ortrait,  which  is  (»n  the  cover  of 
the  hox.  is  of  a  compositi«»n  made  at 
my  Hermitiige.  where  they  are  now 
at  work  aliont  impressions  (»n  the 
stones  found  there. 

"  I  expect  you  will  inform  me  of  the 
large  i)icture  of  the  subject  of  which 
1  have  already  spoken  to  you  in  an- 
another  letter.  Atlieu  I  wish  you 
well.  (Si -lied)  Catherine.  St.  Peters- 
burg. :\lareh  .">.  1700." 

Th(^  large  ]»icture  here  referred  to 
may  l)e  No.  1U02,  the  Continence  of 
Seipio.  which  was  proliably  sent  to  St. 
Petersburg  after  his  death,  as  it  is  still 
in  an  unlinished  state.  This  may  be 
seen  in  the  arms  of  Seipio  and  in  the 
hands  of  another  figure,  which  show  in 
an  interesting  manner  Sir  Joshua's 
mode  of  i)ainting  ;  the  shadows  being 
laitl  on  in  a  green  tone,  ju-eparatory  to 
the  warm  glazing  with  which  he  so  suc- 
cessfully imitated  the  glowing  t^aies  of 
the  Venetian  School.  l;*0:».  Dido  and 
jMuas,  ill  a  landscape  equal  to  one  of 
Wilson's  finest,  by  Thomas  Jones 
(17:{0-1790).  1:^90.  Cu])id  unl(«)siiig 
the  (iirdh'.  of  Venus.  This  i)icture, 
l>ainted  for  Prince  Potemkiu  lor  100 
guineas,  is  the  portrait  of  a  ])retty 
F]nglishw(»man.  wlio.sc  obliquity  of 
vision  is  artfully  concealed  by  the 
position  of  her  hand.  There  are  two 
rejH'titions  of  this  }»ictiin'  in  Kngland. 
1H80  is  an  interesthig  portrait  of  the 
scul])tor  Grinling  (^iil^boiis,  by  Sir 
(iodfrey  Kneller,  who  also  painttnl 
1!>S8.  a  likeness  of  Locke;  both  from 
the  Walpole  Collection.  1387,  Por- 
trait  of  Abraham  Van  der  Dort,  by 
Dobson  (W.) ;  and  1380,  Oliver  Crom^ 
well,  by  Pvobert  Walker  (1000-1658). 


94      Boide  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  The  Hermitage  ;  Pictures.     Sect.  I. 


The  pictures   arraiip:ed  on   the  rc- 
maiiiiug  screens  in  Room  XIII.  now 
chxim  attention  :    they  are  ehielly  by 
Rembrandt.    We  particularise  some  of 
tlie  liuest,  but  all  are  worthy  of  atten- 
tion.    Nowhere  can  this  <^reat  master 
be  stutlied  with  so  much  advantage, 
since    here   are    found   specimens    of 
every  period  and  subject  of  his  art. 
828   and   827,   two   portraits  side  by 
side,  show  his  earliest  and  his  latest 
style,  the  former  bearing  the  date  liu'A, 
aiid  the  latter  1(;G(>.    "sOC,  825,  82:5, 
and  821  are  a  series  of  equally  charac- 
teristic heads.    803,  the  "  Bencdicite," 
or  Grace,  a  small  cabinet  i)icture  (»f 
great  simplicity,  and  full  of  nvercn- 
tial  feeling.     802,  Danae  :  tliough  un- 
fortunate in  his  model,  Ri'mbrandt  has 
]»r<)duced  in  this  imique  j)icture  a  chef- 
d'ciiuvre  of  execution.     771  and  772 
are  excellent  specimens  of  Franz  Hals. 
The  following  are  all  by  Rembrandt: 
— 808,  Lieveu  van  Coi)enol,  tlie  cele- 
brated calligraphist,  a  highly-finished 
l)ortrait  of  the  same  period  as  that  of 
the    "Lesson   of  Anatomy"    at   the 
Hague ;   818,  one  of  his  noblest  i)or- 
traits,  very  badly  hung;  its  vis-Ii-vis, 
801),  which  sutFers  from  the  snme  cause, 
is  a  fine  classical  lieiid,  called  indif- 
ferently Joan  of  Arc  or  Minerva  ;  80"), 
an  old  woman,  an  admiralde  j)ortruit 
in    his   freest   style — the  hands,   exe- 
cuted with  a  freedom  which  borders 
on  coarseness,  appear  highly  finished 
when   viewed  at   a  proi)er  distance; 
707,   Return    of    tlie   Prodigal    Son, 
though  i)ainted  in  a  coarse  decorative 
manner,   tells   its    story   witli    much 
pathos;  beneath  it  is  a  buld  landscape, 
830,   and,  on   the  opposite  screen,  a 
marine    piece,    831,   very   warm   and 
transparent,  probably  left  uncompleted 
by   Rembrandt,    for    the    foreground 
seems   to  be  finished  by  an  inferior 
hand;     817,     a     beautifully-coloure<l 
small  femal((  head  ;   708,  the  ])arable 
of  the  Lord  of  the  Vineyard,  a  remark- 
able sketch  in  brown  glaze,  the  j)rin- 
cipal  figure  a  highly-finished  minia- 
ture; 816,  head  of  an  old  man  in  pro- 
file, a  masteri)iece  of  free  handling — 
observe  tlie  elfeot  ])roduced  by  tlu;  use; 
of  the  sharpened  stick  of  the  lirush  iu 
•the  treatment  of  tlio  beard  ;  82(j,  Child 


at  a  "Window — this  picturesque  genre 
portrait  is  a  fine  study  o(  chiaroscuro  ; 
7UG,  the  Holv  Family,  was  valued^  by 
Smith  at  2000  guineas;  800,  Descent 
from  the  Cross  by  Night,  an  admirable 
composition,  rejjlete  with  sentiment 
and  mystery;  807,  Rembrandt's  Mo- 
ther, a  highly-finished  cabhiet  jiicture ; 
700,  Peter  denying  Christ,  another 
striking  candle-light  eliect;  811,  a 
most  characteristic  ])ortrait  in  this 
master's  best  style — it  was  long,  but 
erroneously,  sujiposed  to  be  tiiat  of 
Stephen  Batory,  or  John  III.,  Sobieski, 
of  Poland ;  the  pentimenti  or  alter- 
ations in  the  jiosition  of  the  baton 
held  in  his  hand,  are  evidence  of  tlie 
care  bestowed  on  this  picture;  810 
passes  for  the  likeness  of  old  Thomas 
Parr — it  is  in  his  latest  style,  but 
Rembrandt,  instead  of  showinic  synq)- 
toms  of  weakness,  ai>i)ears  to  have 
become  more  daring  with  age,  to  judge 
from  the  impasto  and  the  masterly 
treatment  of  this  fine  portrait  —  ft 
hanus  unfortunately  too  much  in  tlie 
dark  to  be  seen  with  advantage  (an- 
other i)ortrait  of  Thomas  Parr,  also  by 
Rembrandt,  may  Ix;  seen  in  Prince 
Lobanotf's  collection).  702,  Abra- 
ham's Sacrifice,  one  «)f  Rembrandt's 
earliest,  signed  and  datetl  1035  (\V.): 
tlu'ie  is  a  coj)y  of  this  i)icture  by 
Eckout  in  a  jirivate  collecti<»ii  at  Brus- 
sels. Tlie  Hermitage  (iallery  is  also 
very  rich  in  jiictures  by  Ferdinand 
Bol :  see  tlie  excellent  portraits  by  this 
artist  under  Nos.  853,  854  (W.),  810, 
848,  85U,  851,  and  847. 

Room  XIV, — The  i>rincip;il  objects 
of  attraction  in  this  room  are  six 
sketches  by  Rul>ens  for  the  decoration 
of  the  triumi)hal  arches  raised  at 
Antwerp  in  1035  to  greet  the  solemn 
entrance  of  the  Infant  Cardinal  Fer- 
dinand, brother  of  Philii)  IV.  of  Spain 
(Nos.  5G1  to  500 ^  The  paintin-s 
were  executed  by  Rubens'  i)upiis, 
after  these  sketches.  The  allegorical 
rei)resent^ition  of  Peace  and  War  con- 
tending at  the  Temple  of  Janus  (500) 
is  ingeni<ms  and  masterly  (W.).  Nos. 
572  and  573  are  of  inteiest  to  Knglish- 
men,  being  sketches  by  Ruljens  for 
the  ceiling  of  the  Palace  at  Whitehall, 


Russia.     Boutel.St.  Petersburg ;  Tlie  Hermitage ;  Pictures.      95 

made  by  order  of  Charles  I.;  the 
former  represents  James  I.  seated  on 
his  throne,  with  Pallas,  Juno,  and 
Venus  accompanied  by  Cupid,  before 
him;  the  Genius  of  Peace  is  below, 
burning  armour.  This  sketch  once 
belonged  to  Sir  Godfrey  Kneller,  but 
was  purchased  of  Crozat  for  the  Her- 
mitage. No.  573  is  the  Apotheosis  of 
James  I.,  formerly  in  tlie  Waljtole  Coll. 
No.  546,  Descent  from  the  Cross,  by 
the  same  great  master,  is  a  repetition 
of  his  famous  picture  at  Antwerp. 
There  is  a  very  good  copy  of  it  over 
the  altar  of  the  English  church  at  St. 
Petersl)urg.  504  and  505  (opposite  to 
each  other)  are  excellent  specimens  of 
Rubens"s  landscape-jiainting,  the  for- 
mer conveving  well  the  efi'ect  of  moon- 
light (W.)";  the  latter,  "the  Rainbow," 
is  in  the  great  master's  best  style. 
574  is  another  admirable  sketch  by 
Rultens  in  (jrimiUc,  witli  the  exception 
of  the  i)ortrait — it  is  signed  near  the 
left  side  of  the  head.  537,  the  Adora- 
tion of  the  jSIagi,  on  pai)er,  has  passed 
for  a  sketch  by  Rubens,  but  Prof. 
Waagen  is  inclined  to  consider  it  a 
co})y  of  a  picture  of  the  same  subject. 
5'.)2,  a  Lioness  between  two  Lions,  is 
a  portrait  taken  by  Rubens  at  the 
Zoological  Gardens  at  Antwerp- 
treated  in  the  same  masterly  manner 
as  the  celebrated  picture  of  Daniel  in 
the  Lions'  Den,  now  at  Hamilton 
Palace  (W.).  605,  Christ  on  the 
Cross,  most  spirited  sketch  by  Van 
Dyck;  and  658  is  the  copy,  by  Jor- 
da'ens,  of  543,  already  mentioned.  757, 
Repose  of  the  Holy  Family,  by  Poe- 
leiiburg,  is  a  very  unusual  subject  for 
that  artist. 

Two  candelabra  of  rhodonite,  and  a 
large  tazza  of  violet  jasper,  will  be 
noticed  in  this  room. 

Room  XV. — This  small  room  is  de- 
vote<l  U^  a  jiortion  of  the  German  school 
in  its  decadence.  1 280,  an  Orgie,  and 
1200,  a  Concert,  are  l>y  Platzer.  1303 
is  a  i^ortrait  of  IMengs  by  the  artist 
himself.  1200,  the  Descent  of  the  Holy 
(ihost,  is  an  exquisite  specimen  of 
Mengs  ;  unusually  fine  in  colour  and 
expression.  The  Denners  are  1284  to 
1288.     1304  and  1305,  by  Angclique 


Kaufmann,  represent   episodes    from 
Sterne's  '  Sentimental  Journey.' 

Room  XVI.— On  the  eight  screens 
in  this  room  are  numerous  specimens 
of  the  Dutch  school  in  its  most  flou- 
rishing period.     777,  Presentation  of 
the  Bride,  a  masterpiece  by  Van  der 
Heist,  to  the  left  on  entering,  at  once 
strikes  the  eye;  very  much  restored, 
especially  the  head  and  dress  of  the 
bride  (from  King  of  Holland's  Collec- 
tion).    778  and  770  are  fine  specimens 
of  that  artist's  portrait-painting,  rarely 
seen  out  of  Holland.     000,   Game  of 
Trictrac,  by  Jan  Steen,  who  is  seen  in 
the  picture  playing  with  a  lady ;  the 
sj^ecimens  of  this  artist  are  numerous, 
aftbrding  an  excellent  opportunity  of 
studying   his   style.     874,    the  Musi- 
cian,  by   Terburg;    the   wdiite   satin 
dress  of  the  lady  is  beautifully  painted. 
003,  the  Alchymist,  is  a  splendid  spe- 
cimen of  Gerard  Dow.     878  is  one  of 
the  best  juctures  by  Metzu.     062,  a 
Winter     Landscape,     by     Ostade, — 
signed  ;  it  is  jiainted  in  his  latest  and 
best   style.     1246   and   1247   are  the 
two  well-known  jnctures,  by  W.  van 
Mieris.     1136,  a  IMorass  in  the  middle 
of  a  Forest,  is  an  excellent  Ruysdael. 
1143  (opposite)  is  another  specimen  of 
that  master.     1211  (on  stand  VII.),  a 
Street  at  Amsterdam,   is  one  of  Jan 
van  der  Heyden's  best  pictures;   the 
figures  were'  painted  by  A.  van  der 
Velde.     The  specimens  of  this  artist 
are  numerous,  and  extremely  good  and 
valuable.  1 148,  View  near  Groeningen, 
by  Jacob  Ruysdael— full  of  sunlight. 
1145  is  a  beautiful  and  clear  specimen 
of  the  same  artist.     1117,  one  of  the 
best  eftbrts  of  Van  der  Neer— a  View 
at   Sunset.      1162,   Marine   View  by 
l*ynacker — one  of  his  best.     1102,  a 
View  of  the  Meuse,  by  Cuyp.     1150, 
Study,  by  C.  Decker ;  a  beautiful  spe- 
cimen of  this  master,  whose  pictures 
are  rare.     805,  a  large  picture  by  Jan 
Steen,  Esther  before  Assuerus  ;  consi- 
dered  by   AVaagen  the  best  of  that 
ai-tist's  serious  pictures.    070  is  a  good 
specimen  of  Van  der  Poel.     1081,   a 
graceful  Landscape,  by  Berchem,  in  a 
warm  golden  tone.    1262,  a  Landscape, 
in   grisaille,  by  Be^-cy:! .     1076  and 


06       Boufe  1. — St.  Petcrslmr<j  :  TJie  ITermifage  ;  Pictures.     Sect.  I. 


1077  (opposite)  ai'i'  t\vf>  more  exci'llciit 
liandscapt's,  by  Bcrcluni.  llo5, IMoutli 
of  the  Scluldt,  l»y  KvcnliiiiAoii ;  very 
l>ol(l  and  pirturcsquc.  On  a  stand  is 
aiiotlior  bnuill  ])i('tur(^  by  Van  dcr 
ilcyden  ;  120(1; ;  a  \iit\r.  liaisli  in  out- 
line and  cold  in  tone,  but  tlu^  Jii^uivs 
benntitully  j)aintod  l>y  A.  van  der 
Voldo;  it  ivpivsonts  a  .street  at  0>- 
logne. 

Room  XVII.  is  devoted  to  pictnres 
of  fruit  and  j»amc  by  Sny«lcrs,  Vo.s, 
Wcenix,  Vcrendael,  and  otliers.  1)>24, 
Concert  of  Birds,  ])y  Snyders,  is  cu- 
rious. (Peter  tlic  Great's  Gallery  is 
reached  from  liere.  There  is  a  studio 
for  paintin;^  (»n  jxireelain  above  this 
room,  and  a  small  collection  of  old 
majolica,  not  generally  o^hh  to  tiie 
public.) 

Boom  XVIII.  contains  numerous 
]taintiniL;s  of  tish,  fruit,  and  j;ame  on 
th(!  largest  canvas,  by  Snyders,  Vos, 
and  others.  IKtl,  Slau-hinit,  is  an 
excellent  specimen  of  Hackert ;  and 
1323  (on  a  stand)  is  an  amusinj;-  study 
of  cats'  iieads  by  Snyders. 

Then;  is  a  m;!rl>l{!  statue  l)y  Canova 
in  this  room,  well  known  In »m  popular 
reproductions. 

Boom  XIX. — Til  is  room,  like  tla^ 
next,  is  set  apart  for  the  A^^s^•/(^i 
School,  founded  in  11  o*.)  hy  Lossenko. 
1020,  Sunrise  on  tlie  Black  Sea;  and 
on  tlie  other  side  of  the  door  an  extra- 
(udinary  picture,  *'  the  Delude,"  by 
Aivazofsky,  a  marine  ])ainter.  1(122, 
a  View  of  Odessa,  by  the  .same  artist. 
1G20,  View  of  Wladi-Kavkas,  a  small 
town  in  the  Cauca.sus,  by  Willewald. 
lOoO,  The  Kcniu'sst'  or  Fair  at 
Amsterdam  by  moonli,i;lit.  by  Bo;^o- 
lubolf;  the  <lonblo  eftect  of  the  moon- 
li;::lit,  and  that  of  the  variei;at<'d 
Ir.mps,  is  beautifully  rendered.  1.5(18, 
the  capture  of  Kazan  by  John  the 
Terrible  in  la.Vi  ;  Hie  Tsar  of  Kazan 
is  kneelin'4  in  submission  to  John 
IV.  1501),  the  election  of  Michael 
llomanoflf  to  the  throne  f)f  liussia  ;  the 
Ijoyar  Shcremetietf  is  bearini;  the 
crown,  the  sceptre,  and  a  .i^old  cross; 
the  mother  of  Michael  Bomanoff  ami 


several  hi^•h  ecclesiastics  stand  near 
him.  Botli  tiiese  historical  pictures 
are  by  l',u,ru)uotl",  a  pupil  of  Bos.senko. 
Near  1.">G8  will  be  seen  one  of  Avai- 
zowski's  most  extraordinary  eHbrts, 
"the  Creation  of  the  World."' 

A  marble  stjitue  of  I'aris  by  Canova 
stands  in  this  room. 

Boom  XX. —  Uii!t.<i<tii  School  conti- 
nued.— 1.51)1,  a  Nym]>h  iroiuL:^  to  bathe, 
by  Nelf,  is  an  admirable  si)ecim(  n  of 
tlesh-i»aintini;-.  15J)3.  by  Ivanolf, 
Christ  appearinj.;:  to  Mary  IMa;;-dalene  ; 
the  tigure  of  tiu^  Magdalene^  is  n<»t 
tleticient  in  pathos,  while  that  of 
Christ  is  executed  with  the  cold  for- 
mality of  the  p.«-eudo-clas>sic  school. 
1.590  is  an  immen.se  picture  by  Bruni 
of  the  Brazen  Serjxnt:  a  stiirtlin;;- 
academical  picture.  The  most  stri kin-- 
])icture  in  this  room  is  1;580,  the  Last 
Day  of  I'ompeii,  by  Briilow;  it  is 
consitlered  to  be  the  most  imj)ortant 
work  of  tile  Ivussian  School.  159.5, 
two  Nymplis  batiiini; ;  one  of  tlie 
ii.u^urcs  in  this  picture  is  from  the  same 
model  as  1:594,  which  it  resembles  in 
mod(^  of  treatment.  Tliere  are  moro 
copies  t^dcen  of  tliese  two  pictures  by 
Nelf  than  of  any  other  in  the  Hermit- 
aj;e. 

Two  candelabra  and  a  tazza  of  very 
fine  jasju'r  stiind  in  the  centre  of  the 
room. 

Rooms  XXI.  and  XXII. — Numisnuf- 
flc  Collection. — This  consists  of  more 
than  200,000  specimens,  and  was  com- 
menced by  Catherine  II.  The  <»riL;inal 
collection  has  l)een  increased  by  jmr- 
chases  and  gifts,  ])rincij)ally  from 
Baron  dv  Chaudoir,  ]M.  Keichel, Count 
IVrofsky,  and  M.  de  Beule. 

The  coinage  of  Russia  is  shown  in 
more  than  70(J0  specimens,  of  wliich 
tlie  most  precious  are  4  gold  coins  of 
St.  AVladimir,  lOth  eenty.  'in  Case  1. 
On  a  small  stind  will  ]>e  found  a  rich 
collection  of  "Boltinas"  or  half- 
])ounds  of  silver,  current  throughout 
Russia  from  the  reign  of  Wladimir  the 
(ireat  to  the  15th  centy.,  and  of 
'*  roubles,"  or  (piartirs  of  a  i)Ound  of 
silver,  introduced  about  the  15t'hcenty. 
Those  without  any  sUimi)  are  the  most 


Hiissia.     Boiite  1, — St,  Petersburg :   Tlie  Hermitage ;  Pictures.      97 


ancient  Some  Poltinas  of  the  Golden 
Horde  of  Tartary  are  under  the  same 
glass.  The  modern  '•  roul)le  "  takes 
its  origin  from  these  rude  lumps  of 
metal,  the  name  implying  a  i)iece 
chopped  off.  The  square  copeck  and 
half-copeck  of  iron  are  .sui)posedtohave 
been  used  in  tlie  payment  of  miners 
in  the  province  of  Olonets,  near  the 
White  Sea.  By  some  the  nana;  '•  Ko- 
]>eika"  (copeck)  is  assumed  to  lie 
•  lerived  from  the  wonl  hoplc,  or  lance, 
from  the  ettigy  of  St  George  and  the 
Dragon  <uiginally  stunped  on  the  coin ; 
but  by  others  the  name  is  supposed  1^> 
1  te  of  greater  antiquity.  The  4-cornered 
Hat  rouble  of  copper  cast  at  Ekaterin- 
burg in  1725  will  be  noticed  with 
tntcrest  in  Case  5,  as  will  also  the 
round  rouble  of  copper  cast  in  1771. 
Tlie  cohis  of  countries  and  provinces 
once  independent,  but  now  subject  t» 
Russia,  are  exhibited  in  a  magnificent 
series.  Thus  tin;  coins  of  Volaiul 
from  the.  loth  centy.,  and  nmnerous 
nu'dals  U'idt:  that  of  Sobieski  in  Case  4), 
form  a  line  collection  in  7  cases.  On 
a  stuid  will  be  seen  the  medals  struck 
in  Russia  since  1702;  and  the  visitf)r 
will  notice  tliat  in  the  reign  of  Peter 
the  Great  gold  couis  bearing  the  eltigy 
of  the  sovereign  were  worn  as  Orders 
of  Merit,  aft^-r  the  ancient  custom  of 
Byzantium.  \  case  is  devoted  to  a 
line  collection  of  tlie  coins  of  the  Shi- 
ronic  mces,  Servian,  Bulgarian,  &c. 
The  mints  of  foreign  States  are  very 
richly  reiireseiited.  An  English  or 
American  visitor  will  inspect  with  in- 
terest the  valuable  collection  o\' J'Jiigli,<h 
coins  armnged  in  3  cases  at  the  low  er 
part  of  Room  XXII.,  and  consisting  of 
s(;veral  linndred  specimens  of  Ethel- 
dred  II.,  Canute,  Hardicanut',  &c., 
luany  of  which  have  been  excavated 
in  Russia.  Anglo-Saxon  coins  have 
been  found  in  every  part  of  Russia, 
from  Oranieiibaum  (ojiposit^  Croii- 
stadt)  to  Chernigott'  in  the  S.  They 
were  largely  current  in  the  early 
Russian  pruicipalities,  which  then 
sui)plied  l^urope  with  black  marten- 
skins,  and  other  products  of  the 
chase.  The  coinage  of  Jaroslaf,  son 
of  Wladimir  the  Great,  was  after  an 
Anglo-Saxon  model,  as  may  be  seen 


in  the  numismatic  collection  at  Stock- 
holm. 

Among  the  ancient  coins  is  a  splen- 
did series  njprescnthig  the  Greek  colo- 
nies of  Olbia,  Chersonesus,  Pantica- 
p;r,um,  Phanagoria,  and  many  others. 
The  collection  of  coins  of  the  kings  of 
Pontus  and  Bosporus  is  particularly 
rich,  the  s]>ccimens  ranging  between 
Bcucon  and  Rhescuporis  (the  coutem- 
]>orary  of  Constintino  the  Great),  and 
including  jNIithridates  VI.,  Asandcr, 
Cotys,  Polemon  II.,  his  wife  Trypha}na, 
and  Eu]>ator.  As  there  is  unfortu- 
nately no  printed  catalogue  of  this 
collection,  it  may  be  as  well  to  give 
here  a  few  particulars  respecting  the 
number  and  character  of  tlie  coins 
i'vom  the  principal  colonies  of  ancient 
()!  recce  : — 

1.  Olbia  (the  most  important  Greek  city  N. 

i)f  the  Euxinc ;   feituated  at  confluence  of 

i  hiieper  and  Bng)  : — 

Skilnros,  King      ...  4  copper  coins. 

Jnisniens,    „  ...  1  silver  coin. 

Cuius  of  the  J'^niperors     .  -2  of  copper. 

Tc.'^seno -Jl  „ 

Fislies 34         „ 

2.  Khermvesua  (near  Sevastopol) : — 

Silver  coins 16 

Copper    „  s9 

3.  ravii>:ai)a'nm  (the  present  Kei-ttli): — 

Gold  coin.s 12 

Silver    „ 33 

CopiKjr , ss 

4.  riianagoria  (on  Asiatic  co;\st  of  Euxino ; 

capitiil  in  Asia  of  kings  of  Bosjxjrus)  : — 

Silver  coins 2 

Copper    „  20 

5.  Ti/ras  (the  present  Akcrman); — 

Copper  coin 1 

6.  Si'niU  (near  Sea  of  Azof) : — 

Silver  coins 2  ' 

7.  dorghipia  (near  the  present  Taman) : — 

Silver  coin 1 

Copi^er  „ 3 

s.  Hcraclea  (on  S.  shore  of  Euxinc) : — 
Copper  coins 2 

9.  Dioscurias  (near  the  present  Toti) : —    , 
Silver  coin  (very  rare)      .     .       I 
Coi)i)er  „ 2 

Hi.  TheiKlosia  (Ivaffa)  ; — 

Copper  coins 2 

11.  Cercina: — 

Copper  ojin 1 

(Very  rare,  being  ono  of  only  two  known 
bpecimens.) 

12.  Of  GreeJi  colonies  or  towns  unknown  :— 

19  pieces. 


98     Boufe  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Tlie  Hermitage ;  Pictures.     Sect.  I. 


Amoiii?  these  is  a  coin  similar  to 
that  which  is  mentioned  in  Harwood's 
'  Populoruin  et  Urbium  selccta  Numis- 
mnta  Grreca"  (1812),  as  beinj;  of 
Tyras,  from  tlie  monogram  on  it. 
There  are,  however,  several  pieces  at 
tlie  Hermitiijj^e,  with  dilferent  mono- 
grams, but  with  the  same  effij^y  on 
one  side  and  a  iScytliian  bow-case  on 
the  other. 

The  collection  representing^  the 
Kings  of  Pontns  includes  16  coins  of 
two  different  sovereigns,  whose  names 
arc  indicated  by  monograms  wliich 
have  not  been  deciphered,  but  from 
which  it  is  apparent  that  their  names 
began  severally  witli  E  and  K. 

In  the  galleries  above  Koom  XXI. 
are  more  than  10,000  specimens  of  the 
coins  of  ancient  Greece  and  Rome, 
and  amongst  tliem  more  than  40 
stiitere  of  Asia  ^Minor.  Tlie  fine  col- 
lection of  Athenian  coins,  purchased 
from  M.  De  Beule,  contains  more  tl:an 
400  specimens  of  Totradraclmue. 

The  earliest  dated  inscription  in  the 
Ivussian  language  yet  discovered  is 
preserved  in  Ilcxim  XXI.  It  is  calkd 
the  Stone  of  Tmutarakan,  whose 
Prince,  Gleb,  caused  the  distance  be- 
tween the  seat  of  his  sovereignty  and 
Kerteh  to  l>e  measured  over  the  ice 
and  recorded  on  this  stone  in  1068. 

The  numismatic  collection  is  not 
open  to  the  general  public,  but  an 
application  to  one  of  the  learned  cura- 
tors will  always  secure  admittance. 

Collection  of  Gems. — Room  XXIII. 
(entrance  from  Room  I.) — The  collec- 
tion of  gems  is  one  of  the  largest  in 
existence.  It  has  been  made  up  of 
various  collections,  purchased  at  dif- 
ferent times  by  the  sovereigns  of  Rus- 
sia, and  conspicuous  among  which  is 
the  renowned  Cabinet  of  the  Duke  of 
Orleans  (Philippe  Egalite).  The  gems 
from  that  collection  may  be  distin- 
guished by  their  rims  ju'esenting  a 
surface  of  deadened  gold.  It  would 
be  ditticult  to  criticise  in  a  short  notice 
so  vast  an  assemblage  of  engrave<l 
stones  and  cameiy  or  even  to  direct 
attention  to  objects  in  it  of  especial 
interest  and  ])eauty,  and  the  more  so 
as  at  present  the  antique  gems  have 


not  been  separated  from  the  very  large 
majority  of  modern  and  cinquecento 
works  with  which  they  are  mingled, 
their  arrangement  being  founded  only 
on  the  subjects  engraved,  irrespective 
of  the  dates  of  the  artists  that  engraved 
them. 

In  this  room  is  a  large  clock,  re- 
markable for  the  perfection  of  its 
mechanism.  A  jKxtr  widow,  to  whom 
it  had  fallen  in  a  lottery,  sold  it  for 
about  IJOOOZ.  It  executes  overtures 
with  the  eflfect  and  i)recision  of  a 
band,  and  is  sometimes  wound  uj)  t«j 
gratify  travellers.  There  are  also 
ii  very  curious  bureau.^  along  the 
walls  of  this  room. 

Theatre. — The  Hermitage  Theatre 
is  a})proached  through  the  Gem  Room 
(XXllI.).  It  was  built  by  the  archi- 
tect Quarenghi  on  the  site  of  an  old 
palace,  but  has  recently  been  reno- 
vated inside.  It  is  constructed  in  the 
semicircular  form  of  an  anti(pie  theatre, 
and  will  contain  about  oOO  persons. 
The  Empress  Catherine  had  comedies 
acted  there,  which  were  generally 
composed  by  her  court,  and  in  some 
ca.ses  even  by  her  Majesty.  The 
actors  were  frequently  innatenrs,  and 
sometimes  [)rofes.«sional,  both  French 
and  Russian.  The  emi)ress  sat  on  one 
of  the  benches  of  the  second  row,  the 
stalls  having  only  been  placed  in  the 
reign  of  the  Emperor  Paul.  In  front 
of  her,  and  at  her  feet,  sat  the  privi- 
leged persons  described  in  M.  de  8e- 
gur's  Memoirs.  Up  to  the  year  1837 
tancy  balls  used  to  be  given  at  the 
Palace  on  New  Year's  Day.  to  which 
as  many  as  130,000  invitiitions  were 
sometimes  issued.  GOO  covers  were  on 
those  occasions  laid  for  the  sovereign 
and  the  court  in  this  theatre  ;  a  lloor- 
ing  between  the  stage  and  the  benches 
converting  it  into  one  immense  ban- 
queting hall  of  great  beauty.  Two  such 
balls  were  given,  in  18^50  on  the  mar- 
riage of  tlie  Grand  Duchess  ^laric 
Nicolaevna,  and  in  1841  on  that  of  the 
Enq)eror  Alexander  II.  The  Hermit- 
age Theatre  is  throvm  open  3  or  4 
times  during  the  winter  to  a  very 
select  circle. 

Contiguous  to  the  theatre  are  the 


Ptussia.     Boutel. — St.  Petersburg  :  The  Hermitage  ;  Pictures.     99 

barracks  of  the  Transfiguration  Regi- 
ment, a  kind  of  Pra)t<irian  Guard, 
which  has  the  j)rivilege  of  entering 
the  palace  through  the  Hermitage  by 
a  private  door. 


Room  XXV.  —  h'ajthaeVs  Loggie. 
(Reached  from  Room  I.,  Spanish.) — 
Catherine  II.  caused  this  gallery  to 
be  added  to  the  Hermitage  in  order 
to  receive  the  copies  of  the  famous 
frescoes  in  the  Vatican  by  Raphael. 
The  originals  suffered  much  neglect 
until  the  occupation  of  Rome  in  1813 
by  the  Neapolitans  ;  and  these  copies 
have  the  advantage  of  representing  the 
Loggie  at  a  period  when  they  were 
better  preserved. 

In  cases  in  front  of  the  windows  in 
this  gallery  is  a  collection  of  Oriental 
coins,  commencing  with  the  early 
Khalifs,  and  ending  with  a  Turkish 
assignat  for  20  piastres.  The  Persian 
war  contribution  (1828),  in  Case  12, 
contains  some  interesting  specimens. 
The  Khans  of  the  Golden  Horde,  the 
Khans  of  Bukhara,  and  many  other 
Asiatic  rulers,  are  here  represcnt^^d 
in  their  gold  and  silver  coins.  The 
collection  of  Khalifs  and  Djudjids  is 
particularly  tine.  Russians  never  fail 
to  look  at  the  decoration  worn  by 
Schamyl,  which  lies  in  Case  11. 

French  Gallery.  —  (Reached  from 
Rai)haers  Loggie.)— The  paintings  of 
the  French  School  form  a  sej^arate  col- 
lectif»n.  which  is  now  i)laced  in  the  old 
part  of  the  Hermitage.  The  view  frcmi 
the  windows  of  these  fine  apartments, 
occupied  by  II.  R.  H.  the  Prince  of 
Wales  in  1866,  embraces  a  vast  and 
beautiful  jianorama  of  the  Neva. 

Room  XXXIX.* — This  contains  se- 
veral j)icturcs  by  Vernet.  ISoO,  View 
of  Palermo ;  considered  to  be  one  of 
his  best  pictures. 

Room  XXXVIII.  has  some  excel- 
lent landscapes  by  Gaspar  Poussin, 
several  marine  pieces  by  Vernet,  and 
one  of  the  oft-repeated  convent  inte- 
riors by  Granet  (1528). 

•  These  numbers  are  not  at  present  over  the 
doors,  but  they  are  retiiined  here  lor  the  pur- 
pose of  rendering  the  plan  of  the  Hermitage 
more  distinct. 

i?t<«8m.— 1868. 


Room  XXXVIL— Mignard  and  De 
Troy.  The  larger  picture  in  the 
centre  of  this  beautiful  hall  (1456)  is 
by  Mignard,  and  represents  Alexander 
and  the  family  of  Darius ;  it  once  be- 
longed to  the  Duchess  of  Kingston. 
The  other  2  i)ictures.  Susanna  and  the 
Elders,  and  Lot  and  his  Daughters, 
are  by  De  Troy.  The  columns  over 
the  mantelpiece  are  of  a  very  beautiful 
riband-jasper;  the  mosaic-work  is 
Rusisian.  The  doors,  made  in  Paris, 
are  of  very  fine  and  costly  workman- 
ship. 

Room  XXXVI.  (to  the  left).— 1518, 
a  fine  bold  sketch  of  a  head  by  (Treuze, 
very  like  a  Gainsborough.  1521  to 
1525  are  5  animatiMl  and  highly- 
finished  landscapes  by  Marne ;  the 
Louvre  has  only  2  pictures  by  this 
artist.  The  small  cabinet  pictures  by 
Chardin,  Lancret,  and  AVatteau  are 
suitable  ornaments  to  this  pretty 
apartment.  1471 .  portrait  of  a  young 
lady  by  Santerre  is  worthy  of  notice. 

Room  XXXV.— 1520,  Death  of  the 
Paralytic,  the  celebrated  picture  by 
Greuze;  one  of  the  series  in  the 
Louvre.  1516,  by  Fragonard,  a 
charming  subject,  with  an  effect  of 
chiaroscuro  suggestive  of  a  serious 
study  of  Rembrandt.  Here  are  also 
2  Lancrets  and  a  pretty  little  Le 
Moine,  Cupid  asleep,  the  subject  of 
his  large  picture  at  the  Louvre.  The 
mosaic  table  in  the  centre  of  the  room 
was  made  at  Rome  for  the  late  Em- 
press of  Russia.  It  represents  views 
of  the  cities  visited  by  H.  I.  M,,  and 
the  statues  and  i)ictures  which  the 
empress  most  admired. 

Room  XXXIV.— Here  are  4  inte- 
resting landscapes  by  Claude  Lorraine. 

Room  XXXIII.  (Claude  Lorraine 
and  Van  Loo)  contains  6  fine  land- 
scapes by  Claude,  representing  differ- 
ent periods  of  the  day  ;  2  mythological 
subjects  by  Van  Loo ;  and  a  copy  by 
Le  Moine  of  Correggio's  Jupiter*  and 
lo  in  tlie  Berlin  Gallery. 

Room  XXXII.  (Claude  Lorraine, 
Van  Loo).— 1433  and  1434,  2  charming 

G 


100 


Houte  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  TJie  Hermitage.         Sect.  1. 


Russia.  Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  The  Hermitage. 


101 


lanrlscapos  by  Claude.     1477,  by  Su-  | 
bloyras,  the  Emperor  Valens  and  Saint 
Basilins,  a  small  repetition  of  tlie  cele- 
brated  picture    in   the   Louvre  ;    the 
mass  of  lic^ht  formed  by  the  robes  of 
the  priests  in  tlie  centre  ji^rouj)  is  ad- ' 
mirably  treated.     A  copy  of  this  pic- ' 
tare,  tiic  size  of  the  orip^inal,  is  in  tlie 
cliureli  of  tiie  monastery  of  St.  Alex- 
ander Nevski. 

Room  XXXT.  (Ponssin,  Mi.2:rfard, 
Bouclier). — 148G,  Kcpose  in  Eirypt  by 
lioucher ;  an  unusual  subject  for  this 
jiainter,  whose  pencil  was  chiefly  de- 
voted to  mytholoujical  amours,  flirta- 
tions of  fashionable  shej)hcrdesse3  and 
tiieir  swains,  bathing  nymphs,  and 
other  nudities.  1800,  a  i)0werful  and 
imcommon  picture  by  Ponssin,  rejire- 
senting  the  body  of  our  Lord  at  the 
foot  of  the  cross. 

Room  XXX.  (Ponssin). — 1-114  and 
1418  are  2  noble  classical  landscapes, 
the  flrst  representini^:  Polyphemus,  the 
.second  Hercules  and  Cacus.  The 
silvery  moonlit  clouds,  and  the  ett'ect 
of  twilight,  in  the  latter,  are  rendered 
with  great  truth.  The  centre-{)iece 
(1400),  Neptinio  and  Ampln'trite,  is 
remarkable  for  drawing,  composition, 
and  freshness  of  colour,  as  well  as  for 
tlie  beauty  of  the  female  figures,  which 
are  evidently  studies  from  life. 

Room  XXIX. — Le  Brun,  Poussiu. 

Room  XXVIII.— Lc  Sueur. 

Peter  the  Gheat's  Gallery  is  en- 
tered from  Room  XVII.,  although  it 
forms  i)art  of  the  Winter  Palace.  It  is 
devoted  to  a  collection  of  objects  of  art 
and  industry  illustrative  of  the  life  and 
activity  of  Peter  the  Great.  Here  will 
be  seen  the  turning-lathes  and  instru- 
ments for  carving,  with  which  that  mo- 
narch worked.  Numerous  specimens 
of  liis  handicraft  .stand  about  the  room 
and  in  the  cases  which  line  the  wall. 
His  telescopes,  mathematical  instru- 
ments, books,  and  walking-sticks,  are 
all  objects  of  curiosity.  A  heavy  ir<»n 
htatl'  which  he  carried  about  tells  of 
Ilia  great  strength,  aa  the  wooden  rud 


which  marks  his  height  does  of  his 
almost  gigantic  stature.  The  small 
open  gilt  chariot  in  which  Peter  occa- 
sionally drove  has  an  anomalous  ap- 
pearance among  so  many  plain  and 
practical  appliances.  His  effigy,  in 
the  dress  of  the  period,  embroidered 
for  him  by  Catherine  I.  for  the  cere- 
mony of  her  coronation,  is  appro- 
l)r lately  placed  in  the  centre  of  this 
interesting  workshop  and  museum. 
The  sword  which  he  wears,  with  a 
handle  of  nephrite,  was  the  gift  of 
Augustus  II.  On  each  side  of  the 
eftigy  are  casts  and  portraits  taken 
from  the  features  of  Peter  after  death, 
by  his  i)aintcr  Tanhauer ;  and  the  por- 
trait, in  mosaic,  over  the  chariot,  was 
executed  by  the  ]v>et  Tjomonosoff.  The 
victor  at  Poltjiva  sits  opposite  to  the 
horse  which  he  rode  at  that  battle; 
but  his  diminutive  charger  mu.st  have 
shrmdv  considerably  in  the  i)rocess  of 
stufling,  being  now  not  many  hands 
higher  than  the  wolf-hound  which 
runs  alongside.  Two  other  favourite 
dogs  are  preserved  under  the  same 
glass  cover.  There  is  also  a  case  con- 
taining the  medals  struck  l)y  I'eter  to 
conunemorate  the  more  imi)ortant 
events  of  his  reign,  while  another  con- 
tains s])ecimens  of  his  coinage,  with 
a  few  of  a  later  date.  On  the  top  of  a 
l)ress,  near  a  window,  stfinds  a  small 
efligy  of  his  liousekeei>er  in  Holland. 
Abf)ve  the  presses  the  walls  are  covered 
with  portraits  of  his  coadjutors  in  the 
work  of  founding  the  Russian  empire. 
Scotchmen  observe  with  satisfaction 
the  portrait  of  Count. James  Bruce, 
immediately  on  the  right  of  the  d<K)r 
bv  which  the  gallerv  is  entt^red. 

But  perhaps  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing objects  in  this  mu.seum  is  an  addi- 
tion which  has  been  recently  made  to 
it:  nothing  less  than  a  ca.st  of  Peter 
the  (treat's  face,  made  when  he  was 
alive.  The  cast  which  is  of  wax  and 
furnished  with  long  black  hair  and 
small  moust;\ches,  was  attached  to  a 
wooden  bust  and  presented  l)y  Peter 
the  Great  to  his  friend  Cardinal  Va- 
lenti  at  Rome.  An  engraving  taken 
from  it  is  preserved  at  the  public 
library  at  St.  Petersburg;  but  the  ori- 
ginal hud  long  beuu  missing  when 


f 


Mr.  Guedeonoff,  the  talented  director 
of  the  Hermitage,  discovered  it  at  Rome 
at  the  banker  Torlonia's,  purchased  it, 
and  gave  it  with  generous  patriotism 
to  the  gallery,  where  it  now  stands. 

Through  a  glass  door  at  the  end 
of  this  gallery  the  visitor  will  proceed 
to  inspect  the  wonderful  timepiece,  in 
the  shape  of  a  gilded  peacock,  Avliich 
once  expanded  its  brilliant  tail,  pre- 
jiaratorj"  to  a  cock  f)f  the  same  hue 
flapping  his  wings  and  crowing  to 
announce  the  hour.  The  owl  also  rolled 
his  eyes,  and  the  grasshopper  fed  vora- 
ciously on  the  mushroom,  in  harmony 
with  the  chief  actors  in  this  compli- 
cateil  and  now  broken  piece  of  me- 
chanism. It  was  made  by  a  Prus- 
sian in  London  for  a  Russian  noble- 
man, at  wliose  death  Prince  Potemkin 
bought  it  for  the  Emi>ress  Catherine. 
Around  it,  in  glass  cases,  Is  a  large 
and  valuable  collection  of  snuft-])oxes, 
left  by  various  sovereigns.  The  one 
presented  to  tlie  Emiu'ess  Alexandra, 
consort  of  Nicholas  1.,  by  ]Mahmou<l 
II.,  Sultan  of  Turkey,  with  his  por- 
trait in  miniature  on  ivory,  is  resplen- 
dent with  large  diamonds  of  the  flrst 
water.  It  contained  a  fine  shawl. 
The  snufl'-box,  No.  4044,  with  portraits 
of  Marie  Antoinette  and  her  children, 
was  presented  l)y  Louis  XVI.  on  the 
scatfold  to  liis  valet-de-chambre  Cle'ry. 
The  miniature  on  No.  4042  portrays 
the  Holstein  army  of  Peter  HI.  In- 
side the  box  is  a  bust  of  Duke  George 
of  Schleswig-Holstein,  uncle  of  Peter 
III.  The  beautiful  i)ainting  on  No. 
4043  rej)resents  the  arrival  of  the  first 
bride  (Natalie  of  Hesse)  of  the  Em- 
peror Paul  at  Revel.  No.  4023  is  a 
snuft-box  which  Frederick  the  Great 
gave  to  one  of  his  generals,  with  the 
following  lines  written  on  a  piece  of 
paper  inside  : — 

"  Ilier  sclicnk  ich  Ihm  was, 
Ileb  or  es  \vohl  aiif 
Denn  es  ist  kein  iJreck." 

In  frames  against  the  walls  are 
numerous  historical  miniatures  of  great 
interest.  Frame  J  contains  very  fine 
miniatures,  by  Benner,  of  sovereigns 
of  the  house  of  Romanoft'.  Frame  L  : 
AVallenstein  (3G),  Frederick  William 
the  Great,  Elector  of  Brandenburg  (48  j, 


Louis  XIV.  (45).  Frame  M  :  Portraits 
of  Charles  I.  and  his  Queen  ;  Cook  i  I'J), 
Milton  (22),  Cromwell  (12;,  George 
IV.  as  Prince  of  Wales  (20),  Moreau 
(21),  taken  after  death;  Miss  Porter 
(24). 

Beyond  this  again  is  a  long  gallery, 
with  presses  and  glass-cases  full  of 
articles  of  virtii,  curiosities,  and  his- 
torical knicknacks.  At  each  side  of 
the  door  is  a  toilette-case  in  silver, 
made  at  Augsburg  for  Sophia,  sister  of 
Peter  I.  The  first  press  on  the  right, 
numbered  20,  contains  a  valualde  col- 
lecticm  of  jewelled  watches  and  other 
costly  objects. 

Press  19.  Two  very  fine  dishes  of 
Limoges  enamel,  sigiied  by  Pierre  Rex- 
mon,  and  six  enamel  plates  by  Jehan 
Court.  No.  2925,  the  gold  cup,  in  the 
form  of  a  snail,  behmged  to  Frederick 
William,  Elector  of  Brandenburg.  No. 
2880,  the  last  cup  on  the  top  shelf,  in 
the  form  of  a  shell,  is  a  relic  of  John 
Sobieski. 

Press  18.  Model  of  a  Lapland  hut  and 
household,  carved  in  ivory.  The  two 
ivory  vases,  on  either  side,  were  pre- 
sented by  Alexander  I.  to  the  Emperor 
of  Japan,  who  sent  them  back,  on  the 
ground  that  he  could  not  accept  pre- 
sents from  an  inferior. 

Press  17.  Toys  of  Catherine  II.  and 
Mane  Feodorowna.  A  large  salver, 
with  the  topography  of  the  provincu 
of  Wologda,  produced  in  niellu-work, 
l^resented  by  the  province  to  Alex- 
ander I.  Potemkin's  plume,  glittering 
with  precious  stones,  presented  to  him 
by  the  Sultan  of  Turkey.  On  the  upper 
shelf  is  the  golden  goblet  used  at  the 
marriage  ceremonies  of  the  Imperial 
family.  On  the  first  shelf  a  cup,  sur- 
mounted by  an  eagle  holding  a  balai 
ruby,  which  bears  the  name  of  Francis 
Drake. 

Press  16.  No.  2627,  magnificent 
casket  of  venuell,  ornamented  with 
pearls,  precious  stones,  and  camci,  pre- 
sented by  Sigismund  I.,  King  of  Po- 
land, to  his  friend  Joachim  I.,  Elector 
of  Brandenburg,  1533.  Monster  pearls, 
mounted  in  a  variety  of  forms  by  the 
Dinglinger  family,  jewellers  to  the 
court  of  Augustus  II.  at  Dresden.  No. 
2682,  inkstand  of  Jerome  Bonaparte 

G  2 


102 


lioiLc  l.—  St.  Pe:ershunj  :  Ihe  Hermitage,  Sect.  I. 

Press?.  Specimens  of  lapidary's  art. 
— Handle  of  walkin^j-stick,  ropresent- 
ini;  a  sphynx,  in  blood  jasjjor,  covered 
\vitli  diamonds  ;  belonged  to  Empress 
Elizabeth.  No.  1004,  parrot  formed  by 
a  single  emerald,  presented  by  King 
P«dro  II.  of  Portugal  to  his  bride  the 
Princess  of  Savoy.  A  casket  of  Flo- 
rence mosaic,  with  arms  of  Francis  I., 
liusband  of  Marie  Tlierese,  destined 
for  a  collection  of  gems.  Two  magni- 
ficent bouqnets,  one  of  flenrs-de-lis, 
composed  of  pearls  and  diamonds  :  the 
other  of  several  flowers,  formed  by 
splendid  t<^pazes.  sapphires,  rubies, 
and  other  stones. 

Press  ().  Lapidary's  art.— No.  1794, 
on  second  shelf,  inkstand,  in  form  of 
sofa,  presented  by  Stanislas  Ponia- 
towski  to  Catherine  II.  No,  1805,  a 
large  cup  of  pudding-stone,  supported 
by  St.  Christopher,  and  surmountcMl 
by  a  figure  of  the  Infant  Christ.  Two 
bouquets  of  precious  stones. 

Press  ^.  Oriental  jewellery. — Plume 
ofSuwaroff,  given  to  him  by  the  Shah 
of  Persia,  and  presented  by  the  General 
to  Catherine  II. 

Press  4.  China. — Complete  tea-ser- 
vice of  china  and  enamel ;  belonged 
to  Augustus  II.  of  Poland.  A  casket 
of  Dresden  china,  ornamented  with 
diamonds,  and  containing  the  card- 
markers  still  use<l  at  tlie  empress' 
card-table. 

Press  :-i.  No.  1G09.  glass  drinking- 
horn,  of  the  time  of  the  last  Crusades, 
with  figures  of  4  Evangelists,  mounted 
in  vermeil,  of  early  part  of  IGthcenty. 
No.  1(512,  a  lankaVd  of  vermeil,  orna- 
mented witli  crystals;  cover,  sur- 
mounted by  the  eagle  of  tlic  house 
of  liadziwill,  descending  from  the  old 
ecclesiastical  j)rinces  of  Lithuania.  On 
third  shelf.  No,  l(j30,  a  large  cup  of 
Anglo-Saxon  work,  found  in  Russia ; 
and  at  the  back  of  the  same  shelf  a 
large  silver  cover,  in  the  same  style, 
discovered  in  Siberia.  No.  1G29,  ewer 
and  basin,  with  arms  and  cipher  of  John 
Chcrban  III.  Kantacuzen,  Voevod  of 
Wallachia. 

Press  2.  On  third  shelf  small  crystal 
cup,  mounted  on  vermeil,  with  the  in- 
scription "  Vsihiis  Annie  Clivens  Henr. 
VIII.  Reg.  Awjl.  tixorh,  Ao.  1540."  On 


Russia.  Uoute  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  The  Hermitage. 


103 


(king   Lustig),    taken   at  Cassel   by 
Chernytcheft". 

Press  15.  Filigree  ornaments.— 2594, 
inkstand  of  jNlaurice  of  Orange,  in- 
herited by  Frederick  I.  of  Prussia,  and 
contiuning  his  seal. 

Press  14.  Silver  objects.— No.  250:?, 
model  of  Strasbourg  Cathedral ;  two 
magnificent  vermeil  goblets:  dish,  with 
arms  of  Riga,  on  which  the  keys  of  the 
town  were  presented  to  the  Empress 
Anne. 

Press  1.3.  Japanese  and  Chinese 
articles  of  gold  and  silver  plate. 

Press  12.  Crystals.— 2360,  small 
oval  cup,  tliat  once  l)clont]:ed  to  Pojk' 
Clement  VIII.  Aldobrandini.  (hi  2nd 
shelf  large  crystal  cup,  mounted  in  ver- 
meil and  ornamented  with  diamonds 
and  rubies,  from  the  celebrated  convent 
of  Maria  Zell,  in  Austria.  Crystal  cro- 
codile of  Italian  work.  2;>77,  small 
tun,  mounted  with  gold  and  precious 
stones,  attributed  to  Ben  venuto  Cellini. 
On  fifth  slielf,  spoon,  with  coral 
handle,  belonged  to  John  Sobieski  of 
Poland. 

Press  11.  Japanese  and  Chinese  cu- 
riosities, in  silver. 

Press  10.  Russian  curiosities.- Four 
small  groups,  in  schistus,  l)y  Wenelf. 
Several  old  cups  and  a  casket,  in 
enamel,  called  Tsenina,  an  art  learned 
from  Byzantium.  Mosaic  head  of  John 
th(i  Baptist,  by  Siewers. 

The  inspection  of  the  presses  is 
liere  interrupted  by  an  object  of  .some 
interest,  placed  on  a  stand.  It  is  a 
massive  silver  goblet,  ])y  Scldick,  of 
Copenhagen,  on  which  the  apotheosis 
of  the  Emperor  Nicholas  appears  in 
high  relief. 

Press  9.  Old  Japanese  and  Chinese 
filigree  work. — On  upper  shelf  a  silver 
wig,  worn  by  Narishkin,  Grand  INIar- 
shai  of  the  Court,  at  a  fancy  ball  given 
by  Catiierine  II. 

Press  8.  Fine  collection  of  old  clocks 
and  jewelled  watches. — Two  watches, 
in  the  shape  of  silver  ducks.  2034, 
watch  of  an  abbess,  in  form  of  a  cross. 
2059  and  2000,  two  fine  clocks  of 
Augsburg  work,  early  part  of  17th 
century.  2035,  on  third  shelf,  watch, 
in  shape  of  a  Nuremburg  g^^,  by  cele- 
brated Russian  mechanic  Kulybin. 


<    ! 


the  other  shelves  will  be  seen  a  very 
fine  collection  of  Rubin  glass,  in- 
vented by  the  celebrated  Kunkel,  of 
Potsdam. 

Press  I.  An  inkstand,  made  to  com- 
memorate the  battle  of  Tchesme ;  be- 
longed to  Prince  Orloff. 

At  the  end  of  the  room  are  a  few 
specimens  of  carving  in  wood,  some  of 
wliich  are  by  King.  Passing  by  the 
glass-case  with  stones  and  the  model 
of  the  monument  at  Poltava,  the  visitor 
will  proceed  to  inspect  the  cases  on  the 
otlier  side  of  the  gallery. 

Glass-case  I.  Chinese  figures. 

Press  20.  Head  of  Madonna,  sculp- 
tured in  mammoth-])one  by  Scheer,  of 
Moscow,  from  model  by  Prof.  Yitali ; 
height  23  in.,  breadth  20  in.  Gives 
some  idea  of  the  size  of  the  antediluvian 
animal  wliose  tusks  are  so  frequently 
found  in  Russia.  No.  3394,  chess-men, 
French  work  of  period  of  Charles  IX. 
No,  3411,  a  superb  ivory  dish,  of  Ger- 
man workmanshi}),  representing  hunt- 
ing scenes. 

Ca.se  II,  More  than  100  ornaments 
in  gold  filigree,  from  tlie  toilet  of  a 
Jai)anese  lady  of  quality;  equal  to 
(7  reek  work  for  fineness,  though  not 
for  design.  Observe  the  magnificent 
necklace  in  the  shape  of  a  streptos. 

Press  25.  Collectionof  ivory  figures, 
&c. 

Case  III.  Chinese  jade  cups. 

Press  24.  Specimens  of  carving  in 
bone,  from  Archangel. 

Alongside,  the  visitor  will  view  a 
modern  work  of  art,  illustrative  of  a 
recent  page  in  history.  It  is  a  silver 
salver,  wliicli,  in  the  allegorical  forms 
of  Hercules  and  the  Hydra,  records 
the  triple  alliance  against  Russia 
(1854-50)  and  its  result.  Conceived 
and  executed  by  Benjamin  Scldick,  of 
Copenhagen,  and  oftereil  for  sale  to  the 
Emperor. 

Press  23.  Russian  work,  in  ivory,  — 
Portrait  of  Lomonossolt,  the  j)oet  and 
fisherman,  born  at  Archangel.  Models 
of  monument  to  Minin  Kusma  Minitch 
Sukhorukofi'  (a  butcher  from  Nijni 
Novgorod)  and  Prince  Pojarsky  erected 
{tt  Moscow, 


Case  V.  Carving  in  ivory,  from  14th 
centy. — Portrait  of  Christian  V.,  King 
of  Denmark,  of  Duke  Augustus  of 
Brunswick  (4415),  and  of  a  Duke  of 
Schleswig-Holstein  (4414). 

Press  22.  Articles  which  have  be- 
longed to  members  of  the  Imperial 
Family. — Set  of  buttons  painted  by 
the  wife  and  children  of  Emperor  Paul. 
Lockets,  with  hair  of  Peter  the  Groat, 
liis  fother,  &c.  Dinner  and  breakfast 
services,  used  by  Alexander  I.  in  all 
his  campaigns. 

Case  VI.  Collection  of  i)ocket-book.^. 
— Largest  one  in  centre  (7),  enamelled 
and  ornamented  with  diamonds  and 
rubies;  belonged  to  the  wife  of  George 
William,  Elector  of  Brandenburg,  and 
to  lx)th  wives  of  Frederick  William  the 
Great,  and  containing  autographs  of 
Gustavus  Adolphusand  of  most  of  the 
German  Princes  and  Princeses  of  the 
time  of  the  30  years'  war.  Memo- 
randum-book in  morocco  \^28),  with 
gold  and  enamelled  cipher  of  Sophia 
Charlotte,  wife  of  Frederick  III.,  after- 
wards first  Queen  of  Prussia  ;  given  by 
her  to  Peter  the  Great  at  Konigsberg. 
Small  book  (27),  with  gold  cipher  of 
Augustus  II.,  King  of  Poland.  Book, 
witli  tortoiseshell  cover,  studded  with 
sapphires  and  rubies ;  belonged  to 
I'eter  III,,  husband  of  Catherine  II. 
Also  a  few  specimens  of  niello-work. 

Press  21.  Filigree  work. — Silver 
peacock,  presented  to  Nicholas  I.  by 
Viceroy  of  Peru.  Model  of  a  Sardi- 
nian cannon,  with  the  cross  of  the 
Annunciation. 

On  small  stands  near  tlie  press  are 
marble  busts  of  Cliarles  of  Anjou,  King 
of  Naples,  and  his  wife,  Margaret  of 
Flanders. 

Case  VII.  A  very  valuable  collection 
of  rings. — Ring,  with  portrait  of  Peter 
I.  under  a  pink  diamond;  another 
with  likeness  of  Frederick  the  Great. 
Several  betrothal  rings  of  the  Imperial 
family  will  be  seen  in  the  upper  small 
case.  The  ring  of  greatest  interest  is 
engraved  with  the  arms  of  E.  Fries- 
land  ;  it  was  given  by  the  Princess  of 
Friesland  to  Sophia  (Jharlotte,  the  un- 
happy wife  of  the  Tsarevitch  Alexis, 


104 


Boufe  1.-5^.  Petersburg :  the  Hermitage.  Sect.  I. 


Russia.  Bouie  1.— S/.  Petersburg  :  The  Hermitage. 


105 


The  jewelled  walkiii?:-stick  handles 
belonged  to  Catherine  II.  Under  the 
case  will  be  found  an  umbrella,  made 
at  Tula  for  the  great  empress. 

Visitors  withdraw  through  Peter  the 
Great's  gallery. 


Ground-floor. 

The  ground-floor  of  tlie  jNIuseinn  is 
occupied  by  galleries  of  antique  sculp- 
ture, by  the  Kertch  and  Siberian  collec- 
tions, by  a  library,  and  by  a  gallery  of 
originaldrawings,  wliichsliould  bcseen 
in  the  order  here  given. 

Sculpture.— lat  Room.  Entering  by 
a  door  on  the  1.  lumd,  guarded  by  two 
very  tall  candelabra  of  rliodonite  the 
visitor  is  introduced  to  a  few  Egy})tian 
and  Assyrian  fragments  of  sculi)ture, 
six  sarcophagi,  and,  to  some  casts  from 
the  bas-reliefs  of  Nemroud. 

2nd  Eoom.  Fragments  of  Greek  and 
Roman  sculpture.*  On  a  bracket 
against  the  wall  (rt.),  bust  ofAj)ollonius 
Tyanous,tliL'rytliagorcan])hilosopher, 
whoso  j)ortrait  has  hitherto  only  betn 
known  by  a  medal.  44.  Head  of  Statue 
of  Juno ;  hair  and  drapery  modern  ; 
discovered  in  the  Tanrida  palace ; 
origin  unknown.  87.  Panther,  from 
the  Canijiana  collection. f  00.  Large 
bust  of  Antinoiis,  found  at  Adrian's 
Villa  (C). 

3rd  Room.  147.  Omphale  with  at- 
tributes of  Hercules  (C).  148.  :Mer- 
cury  (C).  171.  Mars,  l.l'i.  Colossal 
statue  of  Jupiter ;  considered  largest  in 
the  world;  found  at  the  Villa  Barberini; 

*  For  details  purchase  of  tbe  porter  'Cata- 
logue du  Musee  de  .Sculpture  Antique.'  Price 
20  cop.  The  collection  of  I'^gyptiau  antiquities 
has  been  enriched  by  the  valuable  gilts  of  Kha- 
li! Boy,  Turkish  minister  at  St.  Petersl)urg. 

f  In  1^^61  Mr.Guedeoiioff,  the  present  direct- 
or of  the  Hermitage,  purchased  for  the  Russian 
Government  a  considerable  portion  of  the  col- 
lection of  tbe  Marquis  Campana  at  Homo,  whoso 
defalcations  in  connection  with  the  Mont  de 
Piete,  are  well  known.  The  French  Govern- 
ment Ixnight  the  less  1  valuable  portion  at  a 
great  price.  The  most  important  of  the  objects 
belon<;lng  to  tbe  Campana  collection  will  be 
noticed  and  marked  with  the  letter  C. 


very  much  rei)aired  (C).  173.  Bacchus. 
154.  Very  line  statue  of  Venus  Genetrix, 
in  best  style  of  Grecian  art  (C).  175. 
Niobe  (C.) ;  excellent  specimen  of  the 
antique.  17G.  Colos.sal  head  of  Minerva, 
in  Parian  marble,  probably  of  ejiocli  of 
Phidias.  The  two  marble  sarcopliagi 
at  the  lieadoftheroom  are  remarkable 
for  the  beauty  of  the  figures  in  relief 

(C). 

4th  Room.  193.  Well-restored  statue 
of  Augustus  (C.).  194.  Beautiful  statue 
of  IMarius,  found  at  Otricoli  (C).  200. 
ArsinoePhilopator;  nose,  lower  hp,  and 
lobes  of  ears  restored.  209.  Pompev  ; 
and  210  Julius  C^a^sar  (C.).  207.  Only 
existing  bust  of  Sallust  (C). 

5th  Room.  In  centre  immense  Tazza 
of  green  jasper  from  the  Altai  moimt- 
ains.  It  was  placed  belore  the  windows 
were  built;  diameter  10}  ft.;  more  than 
8  ft.  high.     240.  Titus  Quinctius. 

Gth  Room.  Near  door  on  rt.  274. 
Very  line  statuette  of  Silenus.  200, 
near    tlie    window    Faun  and   Satyr 

(C). 

7th  Room.  Kertch  collection,  which 
see  se})nrately. 

Htli  Room.  Tlie  Nine  INIuses,  from 
the  collection  of  the  Marquis  Campana, 
but  of  various  origin.  303.  Caryntido 
lMu.se,  in  .style  of  school  of  Phidias ; 
bought  at  Venice  in  1851.  332.  Bas- 
relief  of  (Janymede.  337.  Nio])ides; 
very  tine  fragment  (C).  310.  A  Faun; 
Ix'st  specimen  out  of  lour  in  the  Her- 
mitage ;  given  by  Pope  l*ius  IX.  in  ex- 
change for  some  land  on  Mount  I'ala- 
tine,  purcliased  by  the  Km})eror  Nicho- 
las in  1840,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
excavations. 

9tli  Room.  Venusof  the  Hermitage. 
343.  Very  beautiful  Greek  st.itue  found 
in  1859  at  Rome,  in  the  Vigna  Man- 
gani,  near  the  Poiia  Portese;  well  pre- 
served; only  right  hand,  fingers  of  left 
hand,  and  small  portion  of  neck  re- 
stored ;  i)urcha!^ed  1859.  347.  Venus 
from  the  Tanrida  Palace;  Peter  the 
(ireat  caused  it  to  be  purchased  at 
Rome  in  1719,  with  .some  other  an- 
tiques, and  thus  laitl  the  foundation  of 
the  present  .sculpture  gallery.  There 
is  another  Venus  with  a  Cupid  (351) 
near  the  d(X)r.  Cupid  has  been  added 
by  the  sculptor  Beruiui  (C). 


*l 


■1 


Kertch  CoUection.—^lih.  Room.    An- 
tiquities from  Cimmerian  Bosporus. 

Medals  and  other  monuments  attest- 
ing the  existence  of  Greek  colonies, 
founded  nearly  000  years  before  the 
birth  of  our  Saviour,  Ijegan  to  be  dis- 
covered in  the  early  part  of  this  cen- 
tury on  the  northern  shores  of  the 
Black  Sea.  The  classical  names  of 
Panticapaeum,  Theodosia,  and  Phana- 
goria,  reapi)eared  on  the  surface. 
Many  discoveries  were  made  on  the 
sites  of  those  ancient  settlements  in 
1820,  but  the  earliest  prizes  of  any 
value  were  obtjiined  in  1831,  at  the 
gates  of  Kertch  (Panticapseum),  on 
opening  a  tomb  concealed  in  a  mound, 
long  known  to  the  Tartars  as  the 
"  Hillock  of  the  Brave."  In  a  chamber 
built  of  hewn  stone  were  found  the 
remains  of  a  Scythian  prince  or  ruler, 
side  l)y  side  with  his  favourite  wife,  his 
equerry,  and  his  war-horse.  His  crown, 
his  weapons  of  gold,  his  ornaments,  and 
golden  robes,  had  lain  untouched  for 
more  than  two  thousand  years.  Nume- 
rous vases  of  l)ronze,  some  gilt,  others 
more  simple,  and  still  containing  the 
remains  of  provisions  which  had  been 
jdaced  in  them,  were  also  found,  and 
carefully  conveyed  to  the  Hermi- 
ta<j:e. 

Within  the  last  few  years  the  search 
for  these  treasures  has  been  conducted 
at  tlie  expense  of  the  cro\yn  witii 
greater  nietno<l  and  care,  which  were 
rewarded  in  1800  ])y  the  discovery  at 
Taman  of  the  tomb  of  a  Priestess  of 
Ceres,  buried  with  all  her  rich  orna- 
ments, and  with  her  four  horses.  The 
toml)  was  found  within  the  "Great 
Tumulus,"  or  lllisnitsa* 

The  Kertch  antiquities  have  been 
supi)lomented  by  many  specimens  of 
ancient  jewellery  and  i)ottery  dis- 
covered in  other  p:»rts  of  the  Crimea, 
particularly  at  Theodosia  and  Nedvi- 

*  The  traveller  is  referred  for  a  learned  de- 
scription of  these  treasures  to  tlio  valuable  works 
of  the  curator  of  this  museum.  Mr.  L.  Stephani : 
•  Compte  llendu  de  la  Commission  Imp.  Archeo- 
lo^ique  pour  I'annee  isr)9;  idem,  pour  les 
aimees  ls6U-67.'  These  9  volumes  may  be 
purchased  at  5  rs.  each  at  Eggers"  Library,  St. 
Petersburg.  They  may  also  be  purchased  at 
Leipzig.  A  short  description  of  the  Museum, 
in  French,  may  be  obtained  at  the  door  of  the 
Hermitage. 


gofka,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Don,  the 
ancient  Tanais, 

A  study  of  these  treasures  will  reveal 
two  species  or  phases  of  art,  tlie  one 
Greek,  the  other  local.     Attracted  by 
commerce,  and    by  the  riches   of  the 
Scythians,  the  C! reeks  engrafted  their 
ancient  civilization  on  tliem.  and  min- 
gled their  mytliology  and  their  classical 
forms  and  legends  with  the  customs, 
the  emblems,  the  costumes,  and  even 
the  physical  types  of  the  barbarians. 
The  classical  scholar  will  be  able  to 
distinguish  in  this  nmseum  the  gems 
of  art  purely  Greek,  and  the  scarcely 
less  beautiful  productions  of  the  Greek 
arti.sts  and  their  disciples  of  the  colonies, 
which  form  together  the  most  perfect 
and  interesthig  collection  of  objects  of 
antique  art  in  the  world,  immeasurably 
superior  to  the  analogous  collections  of 
Naples,  and  other  favoured  localities  in 
Italy.     The  Turks  and  a  few  sailors, 
quite  as  many  French  as  English,  be- 
haved very  badly  at  Kertch,  but  fortu- 
nately only  a  very  few  Greek  antiqui- 
ties were  destroyed  or  carried  away  by 
them.    The  museum  there,  founded  in 
1823,  had  oidy  been  a  temporary  de- 
jio-sitory  of  the  antiquities;  and,  with 
the  exception  of  some  duplicates,  all 
the  riches  hitherto  obtained  from  the 
classical    shores    of   the    Cimmerian 
Bosporus   had   been   removed  to    St. 
Petersburg   in    1852 ;    and   even   the 
more  valuable  of  the  duplicates  were 
taken  away  at  the  breaking  out  of  the 
Crimean  war,   and  have  since  been 
rest^u'cd.     An  Englishman,  however, 
mny  alwnys  deplore  that  any  repository 
of  the  tine  arts  should  havel)een  jdun- 
dered  in  the  course  of  military  opera- 
tions in  which  his  country  was  con- 
cerned. 

In  a  magnificent  room,  of  which  the 
roof  is  su]q)orted  by  twenty  monolith 
columns  of  grey  gninite,  the  treasures 
of  the  Cimmerian  Bosporus  are  dis- 
l)laved  under  the  windows  and  against 
the  walls  in  the  following  order: — 

To  the  rt.  of  the  door  on  entering 
is  a  sarcophagus  of  wood,  found  in 
1800  in  a  tumulus  near  Kertch.  To 
the  1.  of  the  door  is  the  case  or  coffin 
found  inside  the  sarcophagus,  and 
which  contained  the  skeleton  deposited 


106 


Boute  1. — St,  Petersburg  :  The  Hermitage.  Sect.  I. 


there  400  years  ij.c.  The  vermilion 
with  whicli  some  of  the  ornaments 
were  coloured  is  still  to  he  traced,  and 
the  wood  itself,  sii})posed  to  be  cypress 
and  yew,  appears  almost  new. 

1st  Window. — Under  window,  terra- 
cotta fi<2jnrrs.  Case  rt.  terracotta 
lij::ures  of  children  i)layin^  with  vari- 
ous animals;  a  chihl's  doll,  witJi 
moveable  lej^s  and  arms:  found  in 
tombs  of  children.  Case  1.,  ma.sks 
and  other  objects  in  ])ottery.  First 
from  door,  Pyramidal  Stjin<l  I.  :  do- 
mestic utensils  of  silver,  of  graceful, 
classical  form. 

Between  1st  and  2nd  windows, 
Pyramidal  Stand  II. :  small  objects 
in  silver,  strigils  and  ami)ulla ;  (;43 
and  515,  drinking-cup  ;  575,  head  of 
calf,  finely  chased,  5  centuries  B.C. ; 
cyatlius  for  wine,  and  mirror. 

2nd  Window.  Cases  on  each  side 
with  glass  vessels;  79G,  a  i)ainted 
glass  vase,  with  ''  Enrion  has  made 
it."  Case  imder  window — glass  orna- 
ments, chiefly  amulets;  walnuts,  al- 
monds, and  filberts ;  994,  hucklebones 
for  game  of  Talus  (Astragalos). 

Between  2nd  and  ord  windows. 
Pyram.  Stand  III.,  witii  G  funereal 
crowns  of  beaten  gold. 

3rd  Window.  Under  window  :  ISO. 
Small  ivory  box  still  containing  tlie 
red  pigment  used  by  the  (» reek  ladies; 
3  dice ;  a  wooden  small-tootli  cond> 
with  Greek  inscription.  "  Present  from 
sister;"  a  splendid  l)ronze  cover  of  a 
looking-glass ;  small  ornaments  from 
dress  ;  and  remains  of  a  wooden  lyre. 
Case  rt.,  ])ainttHl  vases  ;  centre  vase  in 
best  style  of  Greek  art ;  subject,  the 
toilet;  a  vase  alongside,  same  design. 

Opposite  3rd  window,  iron  casque, 
with  gold  and  silver  ornaments.  Be- 
tween 3rd  and  4th  window,  octagon 
case  full  of  female  ornaments  of  gold  ; 
buttons,  pins,  necklaces,  gold  escallop- 
shells,  gold  filigree  wine-strainer 
(527a).  Bracelets  of  silver  on  whicli 
links  of  gold  were  once  passed ;  small 
gold  chain  of  exquisite  workmanship, 
with  precious  stones  inserted  between 
links  ;  heads  of  stag— symbol  of  long-  , 


evity  (407)  ;  wheatears  of  beaten  gold, 
probably  worn  as  ornaments  in  the 
hair. 

4th  Window.  Gold  ornaments  found 
in  the  "Great  Tumulus"  at  Taman. 
Case  rt.,  vases,  'Ma  and  3G/>,  Paris  and 
Helena,  of  magnificent  workmanshij). 
Case  1.,  vases :  13a,  Education  of 
young  Bacchus. 

Opposite  4th  window,  magnificent 
vase  with  figures  in  relief,  coloured 
and  gilded,  reiiresenting  combats  ])e- 
tween  tlie  (^riflins  and  Arimaspi ;  one 
of  tlie  principal  i)ersonages,  named 
Aerokomas,  is  on  horseback;  the  otlier, 
Dareios,  is  in  a  chariot  drawn  bv  2 
horses  ;  one  of  the  griffins  has  a  lion's 
head  with  large  horns;  an  inscri])tion 
says  "  Xenophantos  of  Athens  has 
made  it :  " — a  Greek  artist,  pro])ably 
domiciled  in  Khersoueaus  about  the 
3rd  or  4th  centy.  n.c. 

Between  the  4th  and  otii  windows  is 
a  collection  of  female  necklaces  in 
gold.  No.  14S,  a  most  ])erfeet  gold 
filigree  necklace  or  honuux,  found  at 
Theodosia,  in  same  tomb  with  3  other 
necklaces  alongsidi.  Victories  witli 
quadrigaj  will  be  seen  on  close  inspec- 
tion to  form  the  design  of  the  2  filigree 
earrings  (84/).  Beautiful  gtild  and 
enamel  necklace  with  myosotes  (ll)4r); 
necklace  (1  GO)  with  pendent  charms ; 
gold  necklace  with  iH'udent  bull's 
head  (1G3),  of  magnificent  workman- 
shi]);  beautiful  gohl  necklace,  ter- 
minating in  head  of  Medusa,  with 
pendent  amulets  against  various  ills 
(IGI). 

5th  Window.  In  the  3  cases  are 
j)laced  the  various  objects  found  in  the 
tomb  of  Kul-Uba. 

Case  rt.,  ornaments  for  male  attire: 
530rt,  530/>,  silver  stafls.  supj)osed  to 
be  herahls' ;  432,  gold  umbo  of  shield 
weighing  25  oz. ;  45G,  grouj)  of  2  Scy- 
thians drinking  out  of  the  same  horn, 
with  an  intimacy  which  betrays  the  in- 
fluence of  Bacchus ;  433.  j)art  of  scab- 
bard ;  431,  handle  of  sword;  43G,  re- 
mains of  stirrups,  iron  and  gold  ;  434, 
handle  of  whi]),  wood,  with  thin  spiral 
gold  plate.  The  other  objects  worth 
notice  are  3  knives,  and  (447)  the 


A 


Lussla.         Boute  1.— S^  Petershurg  :  Tlie  Hermitage, 

stone  for  sharpening  them ;  brace- 1 
lets  (427),  weighing  G  oz.  each,  and 
(42G),  weighing  3  oz.,  of  gold,  bearing 
a  representation  of  Thetis  defending 
herself  against  Peleus,  and  Aurora 
carrying  away  the  body  of  lier  son 
Menmon,  killed  under  the  walls  of 
Troy.  The  streptos  or  collar  (424)  of 
twisted  gold  wire,  weighing  IG^  oz., 
and  terminating  in  two  Scythian  horse- 
men, is  of  great  beauty ;  the  blue 
enamel  still  ])reserved  at  the  extre- 
mities of  the  ring  or  collar.  458,  small 
Scythian  figure  with  bow  and  arrows. 

Under  window.  Fragmentsof  a  lyre, 
probably  of  mamuKjth  tusk,  found 
abundantly  on  the  Don  ;  on  it  is  a  most 
beautiful  etching  in  the  highest  style 
of  Greek  art,  the  Judgment  of  Paris 
being  one  of  the  subjects  ;  broken  by 
the  falling  in  of  the  tumulus.  451. 
electrum  vase,  with  repousse  figures  of 
Scythians  mending  their  weajKms,  &c. 
The  i)rinci|)al  figure  appears  to  have 
been  wounded  in  the  mouth  and  leg  ; 
lie  is  seen  a  second  time  submitting 
to  an  operation  which  looks  like  tooth- 
drawing,  and  a  third  time  having  his 
wounds  dressed  ;  the  costumes  resemble 
tho.se  of  the  peasantry  in  Russia  at  the 
l)resent  day,  the  shirt  being  worn  out- 
side the  trousers,  which  are  tucked 
into  the  boot.  573.  a  silver  rhyton  or 
drinking-horn ;  574,  ditto. 

Case  1.  Female  ornaments,  &c. :  428, 
gold  bracelets,  each  weighing  3  oz.,  of 
finest  workmanship;  441,  earrings, 
weighing  2  oz.  eacli.  It  is  necessary 
to  have  a  micro.scoi)e  in  order  to  see  the 
delicatt^  figures  concealed  in  the  ex- 
quisite ornamentation  of  these  jewels. 
There  are  four  female  figures  in  each, 
repre.senting  Thetis,  followed  by  her 
Nereides,  brhiging  to  Achilles  the  new 
arms  forged  for  him  by  Vulcan.  Tlie.-e 
were  probably  sU)»ported  by  Victories, 
detached,  perhaps,  by  accident.  Blue 
enamel  visible  in  some  part.-.  The 
gold  collar  (425)  is  inferior  to  the  one 
opposit«'.  The  use  of  these  oruam{>nts 
was  Bnrbariiin,  not  Greek.  439,  neck- 
lace of  idaited  gold  thr.-ad,  terniiiu.ting 
in  li(urs  head,  not  so  delicate  as  the 
one  in  la.st  windcnv ;  450,  mirror  with 
gold  handle;  the  small  gold  laminai 
proceed  from  the  dress,  to  which,  judg- 


107 


ing  by  the  holes  in  them,  they  were 
attached. 

Opposite  5th  window  is  one  of  the 
finest  Greek  vases  in  the  world,  rcpre- 
presenting  the  Toilet;  of  beautiful 
design.     Found  near  Kertcli. 

Between  5th  and  Gth  windows,  oc- 
tagon case  with  gems.  2  gems  re- 
presenting a  lieron  flying,  signed 
''  Dexamenos,"  are  the  finest  and  most 
important  in  the  Hermitage,  or  per- 
haps anywhere.  No.  292/^  was  found 
in  a  tomb  at  Kertch,  and  probably 
dates  4  centuries  B.C. ;  gem  290, 
Marsyas  and  Ai)ollo ;  29Ga,  Medusa ; 
329,  Ceres ;  295,  a  griffin ;  29G,  Venus 
at  bath ;  292.  figure  of  a  Scythian. 
Two  largest  known  thumb-rings  of 
gold,  with  heads  of  Minerva  in  cor- 
nelian; gold  rings,  plain  and  en- 
graved; 24G,  Scythian  trying  his 
arrow,  most  curious ;  247«,  a  well-pre- 
served Victory  on  gold  signet-ring. 

Gth  Window.  Case  rt.,  painted  vases 
with  ])acchanalian  scenes. 

In  the  case  under  the  window  are 
chiefly  objects  found  in  the  tomb  of  a 
young  woman  at  the  Pavlovsk  Battery 
at  Kertch :  G50,  looking-glass,  necklace, 
earrings  formed  by  Victories,  and  a 
ring  containing  the  bone  other  finger; 
247;,  blue  enamel  ring,  representing 
2  Scythian  dancers  ;  247(/,  a  ring  with 
Veniis  at  the  bath;  2  boots  of  one 
l)iece,  except  the  soles:  fragments  of 
emltroideivd  dress,  partly  worked  with 
gold  tlmad;  110.  painted  vase  in 
terracotta,  representing  a  Scythian 
dancing. 

Case  1.,  painted  vase  with  baccha- 
nalian subjects. 

Opposite  the  Gth  window,  on  a  stand 
will  be  found  tlie  painted  Greek  vase, 
which  is  the  second  for  beauty  in  the 
collection.  It  was  taken  from  the 
tomb  at  the  Pavlovsk  Battery  near 
Kertch.  The  figures  are  those  of 
Triptolemus,  Hecate,  Ceres,  Ilercides, 
Proserpine,  &c. 

Between  the  Gth  and  7th  windows 
is  a  collecli.cn  of  female  ornaments 
from  dres^.e.■^,  and  earrings;  five  fe- 
male heads  v.earing  the  stephane, 
some  showing  the  bull-headed  pen- 
dants ;  enamelled  Cupids  and  Sirens 

G  3 


108 


Boute  1. — St.  Petershurg  :  TJie  Hermitage.  Sect.  I. 


Eiissia.         Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  The  Hermitage. 


109 


in    various    positions ;    73a,   2    Bac- 
chantes of  delicate  workmanship. 

7tli  Window.  Case  rt.,  painted  vases; 
43",  Orestes  and  Pylades  in  the  Areo- 
pa2;us. 

In  ease  under  window,  silver  salver, 
with  border  and  centre  oH  niello-work, 
and  a  monogram  combinini^  the  let- 
tors  A.  N.  T.  B. ;  a  gold  mask,  wliicli 
had  covered  the  face  of  a  female  ;  gold 
spindle ;  small  amphora  for  perfume, 
stuflded  with  garnets ;  gold  bract'k'ts 
and  ornaments  from  dress ;  fragments 
of  dress. 

Case  1.,  painted  vases  with  human 
figures  (see  111  and  112).  Opposite 
this  window  is  a  fine  urn  of  gilt 
bronze. 

Between  7tli  and  8th  windows. 
Pyramid,  stand  IV.  with  funereal 
wreaths  ;  the  2  upper  crowns  have  an 
impression  from  coins  of  Marc  Aure- 
lius  and  of  Commodus  with  Marcia. 

8tli  Window.  Case  rt.,  bronze  vases ; 
2  i)airs  of  greaves. 

Under  window.  Bronze  scales  from 
harness;  arrow-heads  (6186,  with  a 
single  barb);  three  ladles  for  wine; 
strigils. 

Case  1.,  fragments  of  harness  and 
trajipings  of  bronze  and  iron,  studded 
with  stones.  Opposite  the  window  is 
a  vase  representing  a  scene  evidently 
Hymeneal. 

Between  8th  and  9th  windows.  Py- 
ramid, stand  V.  with  funereal  wreaths. 

9tli  Window.  The  case  under  tliis 
wind(jw  contains  the  richest  treasures 
in  the  museum.  They  were  found  in 
18GG  in  tlie  "Great  Tumulus"  at 
Taman,  and  constitute  tlie  ornaments, 
&c.,  of  a  priestess  of  Ceres,  and  th«^ 
trappings  of  the  four  horses  that  were 
buried  witli  her.  Among  the  orna- 
ments, the  visitor  will  be  struck  with 
the  extraordinary  beauty  of  the  re- 
pousse work — Venus  and  Cupid — on  a 
looking-glass  cover  of  bronze-gilt. 
The  bracelets,  diadem,  and  necklace, 
and  the  buttons  of  her  dress,  are  all 
of  exquisite  workmanship,  as  are  also 
the  4  rings,  of  whicli  one,  the  gold 
iscaraboiUd  (2il  i'),  id  q.uite  unique. 


Tlie  remains  of  the  sandals  worn  Ijy 
the  priestess  will  also  be  seen  with 
interest.  The  splendid  ear-<irnaments 
(84/)  were  worn  suspended  from  tlie 
crown  over  the  ears,  in  addition  to 
earrings.  The  square  gold  pkites 
from  the  dress  of  the  priestess  are 
stamped  with  the  head  of  Medusa, 
whose  tongue  protrudes  as  a  charm 
against  the  evil  eye.  The  cases  rt. 
and  1.  are  full  of  the  most  graceful 
little  terracotta  ligures,  with  subji-cts 
from  domestic  life ;  also  alabastra 
and  lamps.  On  some  of  the  ligures 
will  be  seen  a  head-dress  {poloi), 
which  was  probably  the  origin  of  the 
nimhns. 

On  a  stand  opi)osite  this  window  are 
a  vase  and  basin  of  gilt  bronze,  with 
handles  in  form  of  serpents  springing 
from  the  head  of  INledusa.  In  the 
pyramidal  case  (No.  VI.,  at  the  end  of 
the  room)  are  7  gold  crowns  or 
wreaths  of  beaten  gold,  some  with 
gems  and  i>recious  stones.  The  largest 
and  finest,  with  a  representation  of 
combats  with  griflins,  belonged  to  the 
Priestess  of  Ceres. 

In  a  recess  beyond  this  window  the 
visitor  will  sec  some  large  vessels  of 
bronze,  in  the  shaj)e  of  a  modern  car- 
l)enter's  basket,  which  contained  the 
mutton  with  whieh  the  corpse  at  Kul- 
Uba  was  supplied.  At  the  head  of 
the  room  are  the  remains  of  u  beautiful 
marble  tomb  witii  2  recumbent  figures  ; 
the  bas-reliefs  evidently  represented 
Achilles  at  Syros;  work  of  the  2ud 
centy.  B.C.  Along  the  wall  on  the 
opi)osite  side  of  the  museum  are  nume- 
rous luncreal  tjiblets  und  sepulcliral 
numuments  bearing  inscriptions  and 
ligures  of  Greeks  and  Scythians ;  22c 
is  an  unihiished  marble  bust,  found  on 
3Iithridates'  Hill ;  the  colnnni  of  a 
temple;  of  Venus  at  Khersouesus ;  a 
bronze  urn,  enclosed  in  the  stone, 
showing  the  way  in  which  it  was  de- 
posited, and  a  votive  tjd)let  with  a 
tigure  of  Proserpine  and  other  mytlio- 
logical  personages,  may  be  noticed. 
On  a  stand  is  a  beautiful  silver  helmet 
of  Grecian  work  and  unusual  form. 

Tlie  sarco])]iagus  of  Kul-Uba  stands 
in  a  glass  case ;  the  carving  of  the 
wood  and  the  figures  in  relief  are 


( 


»  n 


very  fine ;  the  gilding  and  colour  are 
still  partly  preserved. 

The  2  statues  of  a  Greek  lady  and 
her  husband  may  well  be  noticed  for 
their  beauty  and  i>erfeotion,  not  hav- 
ing been  in  the  least  restored;  pro- 
l,   »  bably  of  the  1st  centy.  after  Christ 

The  other  objects  on  stands,  a  helmet 
and  greaves  (Knemides)  of  bronze, 
will  have  the  i)arting  glance  in  this 
interesting  and  unequalled  collection. 


ScijfJi  ia n  Collection. 

After  leaving  the  Kertch  room,  the 
visitor  should  return  to  the  Gallery  of 
the  INIuses,  and,  admiring  once  more  the 
"  Venus  of  the  Hermitage,"  pass  into  a 
room  devoted  to  a  collection  of  Scythian, 
Siberian,  Oriental,  and  ancient  Russian 
objects  of  antiquity.  Here  the  progress 
an<l  influence  of*  Greek  art  may  be 
studied  in  another  stage.  Although  the 
Scythian  ornaments  found  nearNicolaef 
and  the  Don,  at  a  comparatively  small 
distance  from  the  Greek  colonies,  are  of 
the  most  exquisite  workmanship,  and 
might  well  have  come  from  Athens,  yet 
the  greater  part  are  somewliat  inferior 
and  ditierent  in  point  of  art,  and  were 
jierhaps  manufactured  by  the  Greek  art- 
ists of  Panticapreum  or  their  scholars. 
The  mythology  of  tl.e  Greeks  appears 
replaced  by  representations  of  the  do- 
mestic usages  of  the  Scythians,  or  con- 
fined to  the  reproduction  of  fabulous 
animals,  not  persons.  Gold  was  cheaper 
iidand  than  on  the  shores  of  the 
Bosporus,  and  the  jewellery  of  the  Scy- 
thians of  the  Don  is  conse(piently  more 
mas.sive  than  that  of  the  (jlreek  colo- 
nists. The  gold  objects,  again,  fountl  in 
Siberia,  perhaps  the  country  of  the  Ari- 
maspi,  are  still  more  solid  and  heavy, 
and  are  generally  in  the  lowest  style  of 
art,  with  scarcely  any  Greek  attributes. 
The  same  may  be  said  of  the  gold  orna- 
ments of  the  oriental  Scythitms,  whom 
Stralx>descril)eswandering  between  the 
Oxus  and  the  Jaxurtes,  and  as  wearhig 
'•  in  combat  girdles  of  gold,  and  rouiitl 
the  head  bands  of  gold ;  the  bits  and 
l)lastron^  of  their  horses  are  of  gold." 
(^Strabo,  Ixwk  xi.) 

The  most  important  objects  in  this 


room  will  be  found  on  the  three  centre 
stands.  On  the  first  circular  stand  will 
be  found  the  gold  corytos  or  bow-case  of 
the  king  (421).  It  bears  a  mythological 
Greek  subject,  in  repousse  work,  pro- 
bably of  local  interest  to  a  Scythian 
]-uler.  In  the  next  compartment  is  the 
gold  saibbard  of  his  sword,  representing 
a  battle-scene  between  Greeks  and  Scy- 
thians, in  which  the  fate  of  the  battle 
appears  equally  balanced  (424) ;  the 
hilt  of  the  sword,  with  handle  of  solid 
gold  (425);  other  swords  of  inferior 
workmanship  will  be  seen  in  Nos.  428 
and  43G;  No.  419  is  a  sharpening 
stone.  The  other  things  exhibited  hi 
this  case  are  gold  ornaments  from  the 
dresses  of  the  king  and  the  queen, 
buried  with  them,  some  of  them  being 
evidently  of  barljarian  origin  ;  Medusa 
heads  frequent;  the  dog  engraved  on 
ring  374  is  a  good  specimen  of  art. 

C)n  the  2nd  stand  is  the  splendid  vase 
of  silver  gilt  discovered  in  1803,  with  the 
dish  and  ornaments  on  the  remaining 
stands,  in  the  tomb  of  a  Scythian  king, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Dniei)er.  The  vase, 
28  in.  high,  is  in  the  most  perfect  style 
of  Greek  art,  and  cannot  be  of  later  date 
than  the  4th  centy.  B.C.  The  magnifi- 
cent relief  figures  round  the  upper  part 
represent  Scythians  taming  and  otlier- 
wise  attending  to  horses,  which  pro- 
bablvbelons:  to  thekiu'^'s  stable.  The 
repousse  griffins  attacking  stags  are 
mythological  allusions  to  the  country 
inhabited  by  the  Scythians,  in  which 
the  fabulous  animal  was  supposed  to 
exist.  Instead  of  being  poured  out  with 
a  cyathus,  the  wine  evidently  flowed 
out  through  the  heads  of  the  Pegasus 
and  lion  IjcIow,  after  passing  through  a 
fine  strainer  inside.  Probably  the  work 
of  an  Athenian  artist  of  the  period  of 
Piaxiteles. 

A  large  silver  dish  and  ladle,  found 
with  the  al>ove  objects,  is  placed  on 
the  3rd  centre  stand;  they  are  of  pure 
Greek  work. 

Other  specimens  of  Greek  art,  with 
a  considerable  admixture  of  barbarian 
imitations,  will  be  seen  in  some  of  the 
cases  in  this  room.  They  are  numbered 
consecutively,  but  must  be  described 
here  according  to  the  groups  or  collec- 
tions to  which  they  belong  : — 


no 


Boute  1. — St.  Petershur<j  :  TJie  ITerm'da'jc.  Sect.  I. 


Cases  4  and  fi  form  an  entire  collec- 
tion of  the  Scythian  objects  found  in  a 
tumulus  on  the  banks  of  tho  Diiiei)er. 

Case  5.  Objects  found  in  the  same 
tomb  as  tlie  vase,  disli,  &e..  on  tlu; 
centre  stands  (Nos.  1  to  3).  On  the  top 
of  the  case  are  some  gold  cups  of  large 
size,  found  at  Serai,  tiie  ancient  cppital 
of  the  Khans  of  the  Golden  Horde. 

Case  7  contains  gold  and  silver  ob- 
jects found  in  a  tumulus  near  Novo- 
(•h(  rkask,  and  which  must  have  be- 
longed to  some  king.  From  the  style 
of  tlie  diiidem  and  the  small  Cupid  in 
gold  (18  \  they  nmst  l)e  contempora- 
neous witii  the  Emperors  of  Kome. 

Cai-es  8,  0,  12.  Cold  and  silver  ob- 
jects removed  here  from  the  Academy 
of  Sciences.  They  were  mostly  found 
in  the  Southern  Steppe  provinces,  and 
only  a  small  minority  in  Siberia.  The 
tr.ivellcr  will  notice  in  the  ease  nearest 
the  iloor  a  Streytos  of  solid  gold,  ter- 
minating in  the  bodies  of  lions  and 
weighing  3  lbs.  Some  of  the  orna- 
ments are  studded  with  tur(pioises. 
Case  12  is  under  the  left  window. 

Cases  10,  11,  and  13.  These  will  be 
found  near  the  windows.  They  contain 
objects  attributed  to  the  Chud  or  Fin- 
nish race,  anciently  inhabiting  the 
oontines  of  Sil^eria  and  llussia  Proper. 
The  bronze  weajx)ns  of  the  same  iK'<)i)le, 
sudi  as  daggers,  knives,  and  mining 
implements,  will  be  found  in  a  ease 
near  the  window. 

Cases  14  and  IS  contain  a  collection 
of  bronze  objects  from  the  Kirghiz 
Steppes,  such  as  celts,  arrow  and  sjiear 
heads,  &c. 

Case  10,  under  2nd  window,  holds  a 
collection  of  r>yzantino-Slave  objects, 
found  principally  at  Kief  The  gold 
earrings  with  enamelled  figures  of 
Sirens  are  of  tlu;  11th  einty.,  ns  is 
also  the  large  gold  medal  f)f  Chernigof 
seen  in  the  centre  of  the  case.  The 
inscription  rountl  it,  in  Slavonic,  is 
"  Lord  aid  thy  servant  liasih"  In  the 
centre  is  the  head  of  INIedu.sa  and  a 
dragon  being  vanquished  by  a  figure 
representing  Christianity.  This  was  a 
kind  of  amulet  worn  round  the  neck  by 
the  early  llussian  princes  and  their 
consorts  in  the  11th  and  12th  cenls. 
As  Basil  was  the  name  taken  bv  St.  Vla- 


dimir when  he  wns  baptized,  it  is  not 
improbable  that  the  nmulct  belonged 
to  that  sovereign. 

Case  17  is  full  of  ^Mongolian  pottery 
found  in  the  ruins  of  Serai. 

Case  No.  20,  under  the  3rd  window, 
contains  2  well-pre&erved  dishes  of  Per- 
sian (Sassanide)  work,  of  the  early 
part  of  the  Christian  era  ;  also  the  re- 
mains of  a  gohl  sheath,  with  Assyrian 
winged  figures.  The  most  remarkable 
object  in  this  case  is,  however,  the  silver 
patera,  with  a  Uader  in  bas-ri  lief,  ri'- 
presenting  crocodiles,  pelicans,  leopards, 
and  tiie  lotus-fl«>wer.  In  the  botttun  of 
the  ilish  are  the  repousse  figures  of  a 
man  standing  on  the  back  of  another 
and  chiselling  the  first  5  letters  of  the 
Greek  alphabet  on  a  tower  of  2  stories. 
The  subject  is  evidently  the  Nilome- 
ter.  Found  in  the  province  of  Perm, 
on  the  borders  of  Siberia,  and  probably 
Koman  work  of  the  2nd  centv.  a.c. 


Llhrarijy  dr. 

The  room  next  the  Siberian  Gallery 
is  occupied  by  a  collection  of  engrav- 
ings, the  basis  of  which  is  forme«l  by 
those  of  the  WaljKde  collection.  It  is 
said  to  contiiin  200,000  plates,  .vome  of 
which  are  exposed  in  glass  cases  ;  but 
they  cannot  be  particularized,  as  they 
are  changed  several  times  in  the 
course  of  the  year. 

The  Library  is  continued  in  the 
next  room.  It  was  formerly  com] )o.-ed 
of  the  libraries  of  Diderot,  d'Alem- 
bert.  Voltaire,  and  many  others;  but 
the  greatir  ]>art  of  the  books  and 
]\1SS.  have  been  removed  to  tho 
Public  Library,  leaving  only  10, COO 
vols,  on  Archieology  (scnie  of  which 
are  of  great  value  and  interest),  and  a 
collection  of  works  on  ait,  ti>gether 
with  documents  relating  to  the  dif- 
ferent nuisenms  of  i\\o  llermit^ige. 
Only  a  portion  of  the  Archajologicul 
Library  is  here;  the  ie>t  has  been 
removed  to  remote  rooms. 

Part  of  the  library  is  railed  oft* 
and  aj)propriatcd  to  a  collection  of 
arclueological  curi()sities  and  small 
brenzes,  many  of  them  being  Pom- 
l)eian,  and  dug  out  of  the  ground  iu 


Russia.  Uoute  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  The  Hermitage. 


Ill 


the  presence  of  members  of  the  Im- 
perial family.  The  spears  at  the  en- 
trance are  Ktruscan,  The  1st  case  at 
the  window  (A  4)  contains  3  paterte 
and  other  small  objects.  Case  B,  large 
silver  salver  (413;  of  Iloman  work, 
found  near  the  river  Pruth,  in  Mol- 
davia. Another  dish  (440),  of  re- 
pousse work,  representing  the  chase, 
also  Roman,  found  in  S.  of  llussia ; 
Mirror;  400,  ''Venus  and  Adonis," 
remarkable.  Last  Case :  14  mirrors, 
principally  Ktruscan,  and  engraved. 
The  Ktruscan  helmet  (304),  foimd  at 
Bolsena,  is  one  of  the  most  valuable 
objects  from  the  Campana  collection. 
It  is  of  bronze,  with  a  thin  covering 
of  silver,  like  tlie  helmet  (0S2)  in  the 
Kertch  collection.  It  is  surmounted 
by  a  crest,  cf)vered  with  a  thin  plate 
of  gold,  on  which  some  ornaments  are 
engraved.  The  indentation  seen  at 
the  top  was  made  by  the  stone  which 
killed  the  wearer,  whose  fractured 
skull  was  found  inside,  and  lies  under 
Case  B.  Over  the  helmet  arc  an 
Etruscan  javelin  and  shield,  and  a 
pair  of  greaves.  Against  the  wall  on 
the  other  side  are  0  bronze  helmets, 
Etruscan  and  Koman.  There  is  an- 
other fine  Etruscan  helmet  (423)  on  a 
stiind  by  itself,  found  in  the  necro- 
polis of  Vulci  by  Lucicn  Bonai)arte  ; 
the  3  gold  erow'us  have  been  restoretl 
from  antique  models.  Over  it  a  bronze 
cuirass  and  2  shields.  Oi)posito  it, 
on  a  stand,  is  a  large  and  massive 
silver  pail  (431),  found  in  Moldavia, 
with  figures  of  Leda,  Cupid,  llylas, 
Daphne  and  Apollo,  &.C.,  in  repousse 
work.  Tlie  vase,  373,  with  relief 
figures  of  amazons  and  handles,  formed 
by  Centaurs,  was  found  with  it. 
Koman  work,  3rd  centy.  a.o. 

The  cases  on  the  other  side,  9  to  12, 
are  full  of  statuettes  in  bronze  and 
terracotta,  lamps,  small  vases,  and 
other  articles  of  pottery.  On  the  top 
of  Case  3  two  bronze  .^ttituettes,  found 
in  S.  Russia  (553),  with  a  Christian 
inscription.  \\i  Case  1,  a  steelyard. 
An  elegant  Ktruscan  tripod  will  be 
noticed  on  a  stand. 

The  long  gallery  alongside,  opening 
into  the  library,  corresjxtnds  with  that 
upstairs   painted  in  imitation  of  the 


Loggia  of  Raphael.  It  is  called  the 
Gallery  of  Drawings  by  ancient  mas- 
ters (about  12,000  numbers).  The 
drawings  exposed  on  the  walls  and  in 
the  glass  cases  being  changed  period- 
ically, it  is  impossible  to  indicate  the 
numbers.  Among  the  most  interest- 
ing in  the  collection  are  the  follow- 
ing : — Landscape  and  head  of  an  old 
man,  by  Rembrandt.  Van  Dyck : 
portraits  of  Breughel  "  the  Velvet," 
Francois  de  Moncade  (whose  eques- 
trian picture  is  in  tlie  Louvre),  and 
head  of  the  i)ainter  Sebastian  Vrancx ; 
a  sketch  for  the  picture  in  the  collec- 
tion of  the  Duke  of  Buccleuch.  Ru- 
bens :  Helen  Fourment,  Cleopatra, 
and  the  sketch  for  the  large  picture 
in  the  Hermitage,  Magdalen  washing 
the  feet  of  Christ  in  the  house  of  the 
Pharisee.  Charming  sketches  of  fe- 
male heads,  by  Lancret ;  a  nude  figure 
an<l  pretty  head,  by  Boucher ;  and  an 
old  woman  spinning,  by  Watteau. 

After  leaving  the  gallery  the  visitor 
passes  through  4  rooms,  containing  a 
very  large  and  well-arranged  collec- 
tion of  Greek  and  Etruscan  vases,  of 
every  possible  shape  and  form,  and 
more  than  1300  iu  number,  and  the 
finest,  in  point  of  quality,  though  not 
iu  extent,  iu  the  world.  They  be- 
longed principally  to  a  collection  made 
by  Dr.  Pizzati,  and  were  for  some 
time  deposited  at  the  Academy  of  Arts ; 
but  the  most  valuable  specimens  are 
from  the  Campana  Museum.  Anti- 
quities of  this  description  being  well 
known  in  England,  it  will  sutfice  to 
mention  the  3  principal  vases  in  the 
collection.  In  the  centre  of  Room  17 
stands  the  gem  in  this  department. 
It  is  the  beautiful  and  perhaps  match- 
less vase  found  at  Cumaj,  purchased 
with  the  Campana  Museum,  and  called 
"  the  king  of  vases."  The  beauty  of 
the  relief  and  the  freshness  of  the 
gilding  and  colours  render  it  one  of 
the  most  interesthig  specimens  of  ce- 
ramic art.  The  subject  represented 
is  the  Mysteries  of  Kleu^is;  of  4th 
centy.  B.C. 

Tlie  other  vase  or  amphora  next  to 
it  in  beauty  and  size  is  No.  523,  to  the 
1.  of  the  Cuma3  vase.  Subject,  Battle 
of  the  Gods  and  Titans.    No.  4^2  is 


112 


Boiite  1. — St,  Pdershwg  :  Cathedral. 


Sect.  I. 


another  fine  Apulian  ami)hora,  witli  a 
representation  ofPriam  asking  Achilles 
for  the  body  of  Hector  * 

The  mosaic  floor  in  this  room  was 
excavated  in  the  Crimea. 

Tlie  visitor  will  pass  out  through  a 
room  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a  large 
tazza  of  aventurine.  The  stands  for 
candelabra  at  the  door  in  the  hall  bear 
tlie  date  of  the  birth  of  the  Emperor 
Alexander  I.,  to  whom  they  were  pre- 
sented. 


5.  Marhle  Pahire,  on  the  Court  Quay. 
—This  was  erected  by  Catherine, 
between  1770  and  1783,  sis  a  residence 
for  Prince  Gregory  Orloil",  who  died 
before  its  completion.  It  was  designed 
l>y  Quarenghi,  and  was  the  residence 
of  Stanislaus  Poniatowski  luitil  his 
death,  when  it  became  the  property  of 
Constantine,  brother  of  the  Emi)eror 
Nicholas.  At  present  it  is  inli!d)ited 
by  the  Grand  Duke  Constantino  Nico- 
laevitch.  The  extraordinarily  massive 
walls  of  this  sombre  building  are  built 
of  blocks  of  granite ;  the  sui)])orts  of 
the  roof  are  iron  l)enms,  the  r«K)f  itself 
sheet  copi)er,  tlie  window-frnmes  gilded 
copper.  There  is  very  little  marble  in 
its  construction  to  justify  its  iiiime. 
Over  tlie  ridiug-sohool  and  stables 
alongside;  is  a  colossal  bas-relief  ])y 
Baron  Klodt,  a  llussian  sculptor. 

This  palace  is  not  generally  in- 
spected by  tourists. 


G.  Fortress  and  Oithedral  of  St. 
refer  and  St.  Paid.— Vvtcr  the  'Great 
laid  the  foundation  of  a  fortress  on  tlie 
IGth  May,  1703,  but  the  present  forti- 
fications of  stone  were  commenced  in 
1700  under  tlie  superintendence  of 
Tressini,  an  Italian  arcliitect.  The 
corner  stone  of  the  cathedral  was  laid 
in  1714  on  the  site  of  a  chureh  built 
in  1703.  Consecrated  in  1733,  it  was 
struck  by  lightning  for  the  third  time 
in  ll'){\.  Th(»  spire  fell  in  and  de- 
.stroyod  a  Dutch  clock  which  had  been 
placed  in  the  tower  at  great  expense, 

*  Vide  'Catalogue  des  Vasps  Peints/  1864. 
I'l-ice  20  cop.  Sold  ut  the  door  of  the  Hermitage. 


besides  doing  much  other  damage. 
The  bwly  of  the  ch.  was  restoretl  in 
1757,  and  Balles,  a  Dutch  architect, 
drew  the  plan  of  a  new  belfry  and 
spire.  The  former  was  finished  in 
1770,  and  the  latter  was  put  up  in 
1772.  The  frame-work  was  covered 
with  sheets  of  copper,  as  well  as  the 
globe,  the  angel,  and  the  cross  which 
surmounts  the  spire.  The  gilding  of 
the  copper  cost  2814:  ducats,  or  22 
pounds  of  pure  gold.  The  piesent 
clock,  with  cliimes,  was  put  up  in 
1774.  The  angel  and  cross  showing 
symptoms  of  decay,  a  Pussian  peasant 
undertook  in  18^0  to  rei)airtiiem.  He 
accomi)lished  the  feat  with  extrat>rdi- 
nary  (faring,  aided  only  by  a  nail  and 
a  rope,  ami  rei)aired  the  damage ;  but 
in  1855  it  was  found  necessary  to 
erect  a  scaffolding  t/t  the  very  top  of 
the  spire  in  order  to  secure  it  more 
thoroughly. 

The  cathedral,  as  it  stands  at  present, 
is  an  oblong  builling,  210  feet  in 
length  and  08  in  breadth.  The  walls 
are  58J  feet  high.  A  small  lantern- 
shaped  cujuda,  painted  white,  rises  over 
the  altar.  Tiie  western  end  is  sur- 
mounted ])y  a  four-cornered  belfry, 
112  ft.  higii,  above  which  rises  the 
pyraniidal  spire,  so  eonspieuous  for  its 
elegance  amidst  the  many  domes  and 
cui)olas  of  St.  Petersburg.  The  spire 
alone  is  128  ft.  high,  the  globe  5  ft., 
and  the  cross  21  ft.  The  summit  of  the 
cross  is  therefore  387  ft.  above  the 
level  of  the  groimd,  or  20  ft.  higher 
than  St.  Paul's.  It  is  the  tidiest  spire 
in  Kussia,  with  the  exception  of  the 
ch.  tower  in  Itevel. 

All  the  sovereigns  of  Russia  since 

the  foundation  of  St.  Petersburg  lie 

buried  in  tiie  cathedral,  excepting  only 

Peter  II.,  who  died  and  was  interred 

at  Moscow.     The  bodies  are  deposited 

under  the  floor  of  the  ch.,  the  marble 

tond)S  above  only  marking  the  sites  of 

the  graves.     The  tomb  of  Peter  the 

(Treat  should  be  visited  first.     It  lies 

near  tlie  S.  door,  oi»posit(;  the  image 

I  of  St.  IV'ter.     The  image  with  its  rich 

'  gold  frame  gives  Peter's  stature  at  his 

I  l)irth,  viz.   19J   in.,   as  well    as    his 

;  breadth,  oj  in.    His  consort,  Cathe- 


Ptussia.      Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Academy  of  Sciences.  113 


rine  I.,  lies  buried  in  the  same  vault. 
The  tomb  of  Catherine  II.  is  the  third 
to  the  right  of  the  altar-screen.  The 
TOW  of  tombs  on  the  N.  side  of  the 
cathedral  begins  with  that  of  the 
Emperor  Paul.  The  image  of  St. 
Paul,  opposite  to  it,  also  gives  the 
height  and  breadth  of  that  sovereign 
at  birth.  The  diamond  w'cdding-ring 
of  the  Emperor  Alexander  is  attached 
to  the  image  near  his  tomb.  The 
sarcophagus  of  the  Grand  Duke  Con- 
stantine, brother  of  Nicholas  I.,  will  be 
recognised  by  the  keys  of  the  fortresses 
of  Mo<lliii  and  Zamoscz,  in  Poland, 
which  lie  on  it.  Tlie  Emi)eror  Nicho- 
las lies  in  the  aisle  opj)osite  the  tomb 
of  Peter  the  Great,  while  the  grave 
of  his  grandson  and  namesake,  the 
deeply -himented  Tsesarevitch,  who 
died  at  Nice  in  1805,  will  easily  be 
recognised  in  the  .same  aisle  by  the 
palm-branches  and  garland  of  roses 
deposited  uj)on  it  by  those  who  so 
deeply  nuairn  his  loss. 

The  walls  are  almost  concealed  Ijy 
military  trophies,  .standards,  flags, 
keys  of  fortresses,  shields  and  l)attlc- 
axes,  taken  from  the  Swedes,  Turks, 
Persians,  Poles,  and  French.  The 
devices  on  the  flags  will  be  a  suflicient 
indication  of  their  origin. 

The  fortress  is  used  as  a  state 
prison.  Alexis,  tlie  eldest  son  of 
Peter  the  (ireat,  having  been  per- 
suaded to  return  from  Germany,  was 
arraigned  for  treason  and  imi)risoned 
in  the  dreary  casemates  of  this  dun- 
geon, where  his  father  visited  him 
immediately  previous  to  his  sudden 
death.  The  conspirators  of  1825  were 
confined  and  tried,  and  some  executed, 
within  its  walls.  The  cells  are  not 
shown  to  visitors,  but  the  ch.  is  open 
all  day.  The  Imperial  Mint  stjinds 
within  the  walls,  and  may  be  viewed 
on  application. 


7.  Peter  the  G'rcafs  Cottage.— This 
was  the  first  house  and  palace  built 
by  Peter  on  the  banks  of  the  Neva 
in  1703.  It  stands  to  the  right  of 
the  fortress,  at  a  little  distance  from 
it,  but  on  the  same  island.  Its 
length  is  about  55  ft,  and  its  breadth 


20  ft.  It  contains  two  rooms  and  a 
kitchen ;  that  on  the  left  was  Peter's 
bedroom  and  dining-room,  and  is  now 
used  as  a  chapel.  A  miraculous  image 
of  the  Saviour,  which  accompanied 
Peter  the  Great  in  his  battles  and 
assisted  at  Poltava,  is  suspended  there, 
and  receives  the  salutations  of  nume- 
rous devotees.  Two  guardians  of  the 
house  were  foully  murdered  by  a  sol- 
dier in  1803,  for  the  sake  of  the  dona- 
tion lx)x.  Numerous  relics  of  the  great 
reformer  of  Kussia  are  kept  here  :  the 
boat  which  he  built,  the  remains  of 
its  sails,  and  the  bench  on  which  ho 
sat  at  his  door,  are  all  preserved  under 
the  casing  with  which  the  entire 
building  lias  been  covered  to  protect 
it  from  decay. 

The  wooden  church  betw^een  the 
fortress  and  Peter  the  Great's  house, 
at  the  foot  of  the  Troitski  bridge  of 
boats,  was  consecrated  in  1710,  and  is 
therefore  the  most  ancient  sacred  edi- 
fice in  the  capital,  the  cathedral  of 
St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  having  been 
rebuilt  since  its  foundation. 


8.  Aeademy  of  Sciences,  on  the  Vas- 
sili  Ostiof,  between  the  University 
and  Exchange.— By  desire  of  Peter 
the  Great,  Leibnitz  drew  up  the  sta- 
tutes of  this  Academy,  and  it  was 
founded  in  1724.  It  is  now  divided 
into  three  departments  :  Mathematical 
Science,  llussian  Language  and  Lite- 
rature, and  History  and  Philolog}^ 
]\Iany  eminent  men  have  been  mem- 
bers of  it,  the  earliest  being  Bacr, 
Elder,  Miiller,  Pallas,  Gmelin,  and 
Schubert.  It  is  now  presided  by 
Admiral  Count  Lutke,  a  circum- 
navigator of  the  globe,  whose  contri- 
butions to  science,  and  particularly  to 
geography,  are  well  known.  There 
are  21  ordinary  members,  55  honorary, 
among  whom  7  foreign,  and  its  corre- 
spondents are  above  200  in  number. 
The  State  contributes  about  41,000/. 
per  annum  towards  its  support.  The 
^Vstronomical  Observatory  at  Wilua  is 
attached  to  it. 

The  Library  contains  147,000  lxx)ks 
and  31SS. ;  among  the  latter  may  le 
mentioned    those    of   the    celebrated 


114 


Boiite  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  Academy  of  Sciences.     Sect.  I. 


Kepler  in  18  volumes.  One  of  its 
jjrreatcst  treasures  is  the  '  Code  Iliidzi- 
will/  or  MS.  of  the  Chronicle  of 
Nestor,  written  about  a.d.  1280.  It  is 
ornamented  with  numerous  illumina- 
tions, whicli  sliow  tliat  the  earlier 
costumes  of  the  Russians  were  the 
same  as  those  of  En<;land,  France,  or 
Germany ;  the  present  Asiatic  dress 
having  been  only  introduced  since  the 
14th  century. 

In  the  Asiatic  Museum  is  a  further 
collection  of  books  and  MSS.,  number- 
,ing  nearly  12,000.  Of  these,  1309  vols, 
are  in  the  Chinese  language ;  tlie  le- 
mainder  are  in  the  various  characters 
and  dialects  of  the  East,  and  relate  tx) 
its  history,  religion,  and  literature. 
There  is  likewise  a  cabinet  of  Eastern 
coins  and  medals  in  this  museum, 
21,530  in  number.  An  interesting 
collection  of  Mongolian  idols,  in  gilt 
bronze,  illustrating  tlie  religion  of 
liudha,  will  also  arrest  the  eye. 

The  Egyptian  Museum  has  surren- 
dered its  munnnies  to  the  Hermitage, 
and  now  oilers  little  of  interest. 

The  Ethnographic  Museum  consists 
of  the  dresses  and  imi)lements  of  the 
various  races  that  inliabit  the  Russian 
empire  :  likewise  some  of  Cliinese, 
Persians,  Aleutans,  Carelians,  and  of 
the  poi)ulations  of  many  other  regions 
little  known  except  to  Russian  tra- 
vellers. 

TJie  collection  of  medals  and  coins 
contains  niunerous  specimens  collected 
chieHy  by  Count  Suchtelen,  and  pur- 
chased by  the  Academy.  The  i)rogress 
of  tlie  art  of  coining  money  in  iiussia 
may  be  well  studied  lierc.  Tlicre  are 
long  gradations  between  the  leather 
tokens  of  antiquity,  the  ]>latinum 
coins  of  Catlierine,  and  the  gold  luilf- 
imperials  of  the  i»resent  reign. 

The  Botanical  Collection  has  been 
enriched  l)y  the  herbarium  of  the  late 
academician  Meyer. 

The  Anatomical  Cabinet  contains 
an  exhibition  of  subjects  by  no  means 
pleasant  to  view,  although  of  interest 
to  the  pathological  student.  The  head 
of  a  lady  wliom  Refer  the  Great  loved 
is  one  of  the  most  interesting  curiosi- 
ties. 

Tile  Mineralogical  Collection  is  large 


and  useful  for  the  purposes  of  instruc- 
tion, and  the  greater  j)artof  its  riches 
are  due  to  the  labours  of  the  learned 
Pallas.  It  is  not,  however.  consi)icu- 
ous  for  many  very  remarkable  speci- 
mens. One  of  these  is  a  largo  and 
ricli  twisted  branch  of  native  silver 
from  Siberia ;  and  another,  of  much 
interest,  is  the  large  aerolitic  stone 
tliat  fell  at  Smolen.sk  in  1807,  present- 
ing the  usual  Idack  crust  and  pris- 
matic form  of  these  remariiable  bodies. 
There  is  also  one  of  tlie  largest  me- 
teorites in  Europe,  though  surpassed 
by  those  in  the  mineral  department  of 
the  British  ^Museum.  It  was  found 
at  Krasnojarsk  in  Siberia,  and  is  re- 
markable for  containing  the  mineral 
olivine,  in  some  cases  crystallized, 
which  fills  the  cavities  of  the  great 
sponge-like  mass  of  the  iron. 

A  large  artificial  globe,  constructed 
by  Euler,  may  be  seen  in  one  of  the 
rooms.  It  is  no  longer  a  curiosity 
since  Wyld's  Great  Globe  was  put  up 
and  taken  down  in  Leicester  Square. 

Although  as  yet  inc()nq)lete,  the 
Zoological  Collection  will  perhaps  be 
of  greater  interest  than  any  other  to 
the  English  traveller,  for  it  contains 
the  unfossilized  remains  of  the  gr(  at 
mammoth  and  rhinoceros.  These  are 
especially  remarkable  from  their  hav- 
ing been  preserved  through  countless 
ages  in  the  ice  of  Siberian  rivers, 
and  from  their  fiesh  and  integuments 
having  been  from  this  cau.se  so  pre- 
served from  decav,  that  wolves  and 
bears  came  down  to  fc(Ml  on  them  as 
soon  as  thev  were  revealed.  The  main- 
moth  was  discovered  in  IIUU.  by  a 
Tungusiaii  lishermen,  on  the  banks 
oftJie  Lena  in  Siberia,  in  lat.  70°,  and 
was  afterwards  brouirht  aw;iv  bv  IMr. 
Adams  in  1800;  and  thus  the  break- 
ing away  of  a  clift'  brought  the  men 
of  the  last  generation  face  to  lace 
with  a  species  of  ele])liant  that  had 
ceased  to  exist,  as  a  living  creature, 
lor  a  ])eriod  which  the  modern  geohi- 
gi.st  carries  far  back  in  time,  to  what 
may  be  called  the  geological  dawn  of 
human  history. 

The  monster  whose  remains  are 
here  very  imi)erfectly  exhibited  was 
comi)aratively  but  a  sniall,  and  per- 


Russia.      Route  l.—St.  Petershurg :  Academy  of  Science', 


115 


haps  a  young,  individual  of  his  race. 
The  huge  skull  of  one  of  his  kindred 
lying  in  the  same  room  shows  that 
the  mammoth  must  have  attained  a 
size  one-fourth,  if  not  one-third,  larger 
than  the  one  here  seen  ;  the  skeleton 
is  also  incomplete.  The  tusks  do  not 
belong  to  the  same  individual  as  the 
])ones,  and  some  of  the  bones  of  the 
legs  of  the  left  side,  which  was  that 
most  exjwsed  to  the  ravages  of  wild 
bea.sts  and  to  the  influence  of  the 
climate,  are  made  up  of  wood  and 
jtlaster,  but  the  bones  of  the  right 
side  are  pretty  complete,  and  the  feet. 
like  the  head,  are  covered  by  the  in- 
teguments. Only  nine  of  the  ribs 
belonged  to  the  animal.  A  mass  of 
the  skin  may  be  seen  alongside ;  and 
in  the  glass  case  is  a  piece  of  skin 
with  some  of  the  reddish-brown  hair 
still  adhering  to  it.  The  hair  was  a 
distinguishing  feature  of  this  denizen 
of  northern  latitudes. 

A  small   stufi'ed   elephant   and    its 
skeleton  stand  side  by  side  with  the 
mammoth,   for  the  purpose  of  com- 
l)arison,    but    they  look   small   when 
conqiared  with,  the  mammoth,  which 
is  Sit  least  2  ft.  liigher  and  longer  in 
the  sninc  proixtrtion,  the  latter  being 
13  ft.  long.     The  difterence  between 
the  two  skeletons,  in  the  position  of 
the  tusks,  immediately  attracts  notice. 
In  the  mammoth  they  ai)proach  closer 
together  at  the  roots  than  in  the  ele- 
phant, and  are  in  this  specimen  re- 
presented as  extending  laterally  like 
two   scythes  in  the  same   horizontal 
plane,  and  not  in  two  parallel  verti- 
cal planes  as  in  the  elephant.     Rut 
this  would  appear  to  be  an  erroneous 
restoration  of  the  tusks  of  the  mam- 
moth, the  true  direction  of  which  was 
first  forwards,  and,  at  some  distance 
from  the  head,  inwards,  exactly  in  a 
contrary  direction  to  that  here  repre- 
sented.    Some  of  the  mammoth-tusks 
in  this  nuuseuin  are  8.]  ft.  long.     The 
mammoth  is  also  distinguished  from 
the  elephant   by  the   greater  length 
and  compression  of  its  skull,  as  well 
as  by  its  superior  height,  giving  the 
elephant  the  advantage  of  an  ajtpa- 
rently   greater    intellectual    develop- 
ment. 


Besides  these,  a  large  assortment  is 
here  seen  of  the  bones  of  this  extinct 
species  of  elephant   {FAephas  primi- 
aenhis,  Blumbach),  some  of  the  indivi- 
duals of  which  seem  to  have  surpassed 
this  specimen  in  size  as  much  as  the 
latter  exceeds  the    elei)hant    by  its 
side.      The    remains    of   an    extinct 
species  of  rhinoceros  (Ehfn.  tetchor- 
hiuus)  are   scarcely   less    interesting 
than  those  of  the  mammoth.    A  head, 
on  which  the  skin  is  almost  entire, 
and  the  feet   similarly  clothed,  and 
having  even  fine  hair  still  on  parts 
of  them,   form  the    most    important 
portions  of  these  remains.    The  skull, 
owing  to  its  great  length  and  the 
arching  of  the  upper  jaw,  has  some 
resemblance   to   that   of  a  bird,  and 
may,  perhaps,  have  given  rise  to  the 
faldes   which    circulate    among    the 
savage  tribes  on  the  sliores  of  the  Icy 
Sea  respecting  a  colossal  bird  of  old 
times,  the  bones  of  which  are  said  to 
be  occasionally  found.    The  learned 
curator  of  the  museum  has  analyzed 
the  remains  of  food  lound  in  the  cavi- 
ties of  the  teeth  of  this  huge  beast, 
an.l  discovered  that  he  fed  on  young 
branches  of  the   fir-tree.     There   are 
about  15  skulls  of  the  animal  ke))t 
here.     In  these  remains  we  i)robably 
see  the  animals  of  whom  the  ancients 
had  heard  from  the  Arimaspi.     It  is 
at  all  events  certain  that  tlie  tusks  of 
the  mammoth  were  well  known  to  the 
Greeks,  and  ol)tained  from  their  trade 
with  the  Scythians. 

Amongst  other  objects  in  the  Zoolo- 
gical O^iUection  are  wxdl-stuft'ed  si)eci- 
mens  of  the  sea  otter  from  the  N. 
Pacific,  one  of  whicli  is  5  or  6 
ft.  long,  and  whose  skin  alone  is 
valued  at  200/.  The  birds  from 
Kamchatka  are  also  a  valuable  series, 
including  some  of  the  duck  tribes  of 
great  scarcity.  The  sturgeons  of 
every  sea  may  be  here  seen,  including 
species  from  the  Amur  and  the  Cas- 
l)ian.  The  skeleton  of  a  huge  Dn- 
gong  {Rutya  stiUagis)  is  supposed  to 
r(i>resent  a  sj^ecies  that  has  become 
extinct  since  1745,  but  the  claim  thus 
urged  on  behalf  of  this  skeleton  has 
been  disputed  by  foreign  physiolo- 
gists. 


IIG 


BoiUe  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  TJniverslty. 


Sect.  I. 


The  Academy  is  open  on  INTondays 
to  the  public.  An  introduction  to  a 
member  of  it  is  of  service  in  seein;:: 
the  dillerent  collections  at  any  other 
time. 


9.  The  Universitij  stands  on  the 
Vassili  O.strof,  near  the  Excliange. 
It  Avas  founded  in  1819.  It  has,  in 
addition  to  the  Faculties  of  Hiritorv, 
Physics,  and  Jurisprudence,  that  of 
Oriental  languages,  of  whicli  a  great 
variety  arc  praiticnlly  taught  liere. 
There  is  no  chair  of  medicine,  whicli 
is  banislied  to  a  special  academy, 
situated  a  little  higher  up  the  river, 
and  founded  in  1800,  under  the  super- 
intendence of  the  late  Sir  James  Wylio, 
Bart.,  a  Scotch  physician,  wlio  did 
much  towards  advancing  his  science 
in  Russia.     (Vide  "Monuments.") 

This  University  is  attended  by  a])out 
400  students,  the  matriculations  being 
rs.  50  (7/.  lOs.),  as  at  Moscow.  The 
nobility  only  began  to  send  their  sons 
to  Russian  universities  under  tlie  reign 
of  Nicliolas,  wlien  Count  Ouvarotf, 
INIinister  of  Public  Instruction,  set  the 
iashion  by  sending  his  own  son  to  tlie 
University  of  St.  Petersburg.  In  that 
reign  education  received  a  more  na- 
tional impress,  and  somewliat  of  a 
militjiry  tendency,  since  abandoned. 
The  students  no  longer  wear  swords 
and  cocked  hats,  and  are  in  every  way 
I'berally  treated.  The  policy  of  the 
Emperor  Nicliolas  in  reference  to  edu- 
cation was  sununed  up  in  three  words 
contained  in  an  instruction  to  Count 
OuvarofF:  "•  Orthodoxy,  autocracv,  na- 
tionality." 

The  librarv  contains  G3,000  vols. 
The  scientific  collections  are  unim- 
portant. The  remainhig  universities 
of  the  empire  are  situated  at  Moscow, 
Kief,  Kazan,  Kharkof,  Dorpat,  and 
Helsingfors. 


10.  Aeadermj  of  ArU*  on  Yassili 
Ostroft\ — Peter  the  Great  bestowed 
much  attention  on  the  introduction  of 

•  Open  daily,  gratis,  from  10  to  4. 


the  fine  arts  into  Russia,  and  sent 
many  young  men  to  study  in  Italy  and 
other  countries.  Three  of  those  pupils 
attained  some  celebrity  in  Russia  by 
painting  images  for  the  Church  in  the 
style  of  the  Italian  masters,  as,  for 
instance,  those  in  the  Church  of  the 
Fortress.  The  cliamberlain  Schouva- 
loff*,  founder  of  the  University  of  Mos- 
cow, induced  the  Empress  Elizabeth  in 
1757  to  establish  an  Academy  of 
Fine  Arts.  Lossenko  was  one  of  the 
lirst  academicians.  In  1704  the  Em- 
press Catherine  II.  granted  new  sta- 
tutes, andjjatronised  the  productions  of 
native  artists,  who  had  to  be  checked 
in  their  tendency  of  painting  in  a 
Pyzantine  ecclesiastical  form  for  the 
ornamentation  of  chs.,  by  which  they 
obtained  much  lucrative  employment. 
Under  the  direction  of  Lossenko,  the 
Academy  produced  Ugruimoft',  the 
painter  of  two  pictures  in  the  Russian 
department  of  the  Hermitage  (Jallery. 
In  the  reign  of  the  J^mperor  Paul  the 
pupils  of  the  Academy  were  much  given 
to  fresco-painting  iu  the  style  of  Wat- 
teau  and  Boucher,  and  it  was  only  in 
that  of  Alexander  I.  that  any  great 
talent  began  to  be  exhibited.  Tho 
Ivanofts,  father  and  son,  and  Bruloff, 
were  the  most  eminent  artists  of  that 
period.  Then  followed  Brunni,  Stche- 
drin,  Bogoliubotf,  Aivazofski,  ami 
many  others.  The  present  curator  of 
the  picture  gallery  of  the  Hermitage 
is  a  celebrated  Russian  academician, 
INIr.  Neff,  a  very  successful  painter  of 
nymphs. 

Tlie  Russian  school  has  lately  pro- 
duced 2  pictures  of  striking  merit — 
'  The  Last  Supper,'  by  (iay,  a  realistic 
conception  of  great  boldness,  since  it 
entirely  departs  from  the  conventional 
representation  of  the  position  of  the 
Saviour  and  His  Disciples  at  table,  and 
portrays  them  reclining  on  couches,  in 
accordance  with  Eastern  custom ;  the 
other  picture  is  by  Flavitzky,  'The 
Princess  Tarakanova  in  j)rison  during 
an  inundation.'  She  is  depicted  with 
much  pathos,  struck  witli  terror  at  the 
rising  of  the  water  which  was  soon  to 
swallow  her.  The  princess  was  an  im- 
postor and  a  state  prisoner,  and  is 
erroneously  supix)sed  to  have  met  ^^'^ 


Russia.         Boutc  I.— St.  Peter shurg  :  Academij  of  Arts. 

death  in  the  fortress  of  St.  Petersburg 

in  the  manner  depicted  {vide  Descrip-  Picture  Galleries. 

tion  of  Novospaski  Monastery  at  Mos- 
cow). Sculpture  and  architecture  have 
not  as  yet  inspired  and  rendered  very 
famous  any  pupil  of  this  Academy. 

The  present  building  was  erected 
between  1765  and  1788,  by  a  Russian 
architect,  partly  after  designs  by  La- 
motteand  Velten.  It  forms  an  immense 
pile,  1722  ft.  in  circumference,  and  70 
ft.  in  elevation.  The  facade  on  the  Neva, 
about  400  ft.  in  length,  is  adorned  with 
columns  and  pilasters.      The  portico  | 
in  the  centre  is  ornamented  with  the  j 
statues  of  a  Farnese  Hercules  and  a  | 
Flora,  and  is  surmounted  by  an  elegant  | 
cujxila,  on  which  a  colossal  Minerva  is 
seated.  On  the  parapet  in  front  of  the  i 
Academy    arc    two     superb    granite 
sphynxes,  brought  from  Egypt. 

Under  the  enlightened  directorship 
of  Prince  Gagarin,  the  building  has 
been    entirely    transformed,   and    its 
contents  rearmnged.      The  lower  floor 
is   now   devoted   to  sculpture,   speci- 
mens and  casts  of  which  are  arranged 
chronologically  in  a  series  of  rooms, 
beginning  with  the  early  Greek  and 
Roman  schools,  and  terminating  with 
the    sculpture    of    the    present    day. 
Visit/)rs  will  recognise  casts  of  many 
familiar  and  celebrated  objects  of  art. 
Above  this  floor  are  the  galleries  ap- 
propriated to  painting,  while  the  upper 
story   contains   a    large   collection   of 
drawings,  &c  ,  illustrative  of  the  pro- 
gress of  architectural   art.     A   well- 
lighted  hall  iu  the  same  flat  is  des- 
tined for  an  exhibition  of  pictures,  to 
be  held  annually  in  September.     The 
Picture  Gallery,  once  of  little  interest 
except  to  those   who  mij;ht  wish  to 
study  the  Russian  school  in  its  earlier 
stages,  has  been  made  very  attractive 
by  the  fine  collection  of  French,  Bel- 
gian, and  German  pictures,  Ixjqueathed 
to  it  by  Count  Kouchelef,  who  died  in 
1804.      As  the  internal  arrangement 
of  the  picture  gallery  is  not  quite  com- 
plete, the  following  description  must 
necessarily  be  brief  and  imperfect. 


117 


Ascending  the  handsome  staircase 
of  the  Academy,  the  visitor  will  enter 
by  a  door  on  the  left  of  the  landing 
into  the 

1st  Room. — ^Walls  covered  with  copies 
of  Raphaels  cartoons  by  Bruni,  Hof- 
man,  and  other  artists  of  the  Russian 
school. 

2nd  J?oom.— Medals  and  gems  in 
centre.  Cartoons  of  boar-hunts  and 
sylvan  sports. 

3rd  Boom.— A  few  pictures  by  Van 
der  Heist,*  Teniers,  and  other  Dutch 
artists.  Portrait  of  Mosnier,  the 
painter.  Allegorical  picture,  with 
Catherine  II.  in  the  centre,  by  Torelli. 
4ith  i2oo7>i.— Marble  statue  of  Count- 
ess Ostermann,  by  Thorwaldsen.  A 
few  small  pictures'by  Greuse,  Mosnier, 
and  Inures,  and  a  study  by  Haydon. 

5th  Boom.— {The  Kouchelef  collec- 
tion begins  here.)    Cussingen's  marble 
statue  of  Sappho.     2  pictures  by  Ary 
Schefter.      Very    good    specimens    of 
Messonier,  particularly  "  the  Smoker." 
A  tolerably  good  collection  of  Diaz's, 
near  the  door.     On  the  wall   to  the 
left,    a  startling  picture    by    Horace 
Vernet,  his   daughter  being    curried 
away  by  the  Angel  of  Death.    A  pool, 
by  Daubigny,  is  a  very  pretty  little 
picture.      A    'Sea    View,'    and    'A 
Fisherman,'  by   C.  Hoguet,  are  good 
specimens;     and     Isabey's     '  Return 
from  the  Chase'  will  strike  the  visitor 
by  its  bright  and  pleasing  colouring. 
The  most  remarkable  picture  in  the 
collection  is,  however,  Paul  Delaroche's 
well-known  '  Cromwell  contemplating 
the  dead  body  of  Charles  I.'     This  ia 
one  of  three  pictures  of  that  subject 
piiinted  by  the  same  artist.     Near  it 
is    'The    Death    of    Correggio,'    by 
Tassaert ;   also   '  Scenes  in  Morocco,' 
by  Delacroix.      The  '  Sheep-pen,'  by 
C.  Jacques,  is  a  very  happy  specimen 
of   the  French  school.      Brascassat's 
Bull  is  of  great  merit.    The  other  pic- 
tures of  note  in  this  room  are  '  Blow- 
ing up  of  a  Ship,'    by   T.  Gudin ;  a 

*  As  the  pictures  are  destined  to  receive  new 
numbers,  they  can  only  be  desigTiatcd  by  the 
Ijames  of  the  artists. 


118 


Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  Mining  School.  Sect.  L 


*  Sea  Shore/  with  an  excellent  effect 
of  distance,  by  V.  Ziem ;  a  '  Younj^ 
girl  in  a  wood,'  by  T.  Couture;  2 
pictures  by  Leopold  Robert ;  4  by  C. 
Troyon  ;  Geronie's  well-known  picture 
of  the  •  Duel  after  tlie  IMasquerade  ; ' 
'  View  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile,'  by 
P.  INIarilhat :  a  charming  bouquet  of 
flowers,  by  S.  St.  Jean  ;  and.  lastly,  a 
'  Study  from  nature,'  by  T.  Rous- 
seau. 

Gih  Room. — German  and  Belgian 
schools.      2   pictures  by  Galluit  (see 

*  The  Duke  d'Egmont '),  4  pictures  by 
Leys,  and  a  very  touching  picture  by 
C.  Stevens,  *  The  Organ-grinder  and 
his  dead  Monkey.'  The  '  Lady  .and 
Page '  is  by  C.  Becker  of  Berlin.  The 
most  successful  picture  in  this  room  is 
perhaps  '  The  fire  at  a  farm-house,' 
by  I^.  Knuus,  one  of  the  earliest  pro- 
ductions of  that  artist.  Opposite  to  it 
is  a  good  specimen  of  Hildebrand. 
There  are  also  two  or  three  pictures  by 
Achenbach  in  this  room. 

7th  Booin.  — This  will  be  recognised 
by  the  marl)le  bust  of  Count  Kouchelef 
over  the  door  leading  into  the  library 
bc-yond  (aS,000  vols.).  The  pictures 
liere  are  mostly  by  ancient  masters. 
There  is  a  landscape  attributed  to  Rem- 
brandt, and  therefore  rare.  'Infant 
Jesus  with  attributes  of  healing,'  bv 
Tj.  Cranach  ;  Terburg,  '  Portrait  of  a 
lady ; '  Mieries,  '  Boy  blowing  bub- 
bles;' Breughel,  'Adoration  of  the 
Magi ;'  Cuyp,  '  A  gentleman  leaving 
for  the  chase  ; '  and  a  plea.sing  Greuse. 

From  the  5th  Room,  or  from  the 
top  of  the  stairs,  opposite  the  door 
leading  into  Room  1,  the  visitor  will 
enter  the 

Jiussiaii  Gallery,  with  windows 
facing  the  court.  The  collection  of 
pictures  by  Russian  artists  is  con- 
tained in  no  fewer  than  15  rooms,  but 
the  pictures,  although  of  large  dimen- 
sions, are  not  numerous.  Tlu^y  are 
arranged  chronologically,  and  it  will 
be  seen  that  the  tirst  '6  rooms  are  de- 
voted to  very  feel)le  attempts.  In  the 
4th  room  are  pictures  by  Brulof  and 
Stchedrin,  and  a  very  curious  represen- 
tation of  a  Calmuek  mntnge.  In  the 
7th  room  is  an  iutere:5ting  picture  by 


Chestiakoff,  'The  Mother  of  Vassili 
the  Dark  snatching  the  girdle  of 
Dimitry  of  the  Don  from  Vassili  tlie 
Squint-eyed,  at  the  marriage  of  her 
son.'  The  girdle  was  to  be  always 
worn  by  the  heir  to  the  throne  of 
Moscow,  and  ''Vassili  the  Squint- 
eyed  "  had  possessed  himself  of  it 
wrongfully.  Next  to  this  is  'John  the 
Terrible  listening  to  the  Priest  Syl- 
vester,' his  gf>od  mentor  in  the  early 
p irt  of  his  rtign,  by  Pleshanof  The 
picture  of  '  Sviatopolk  the  damned,' 
who  killed  his  threu  brothers  and  then 
fled  to  the  woods  pursued  by  remorse, 
is  by  Sheremetef,  a  very  promising 
(Uhttante.  In  the  next  room  is  the 
famous  representation  of  the  Last  Sup- 
per by  Gay.  There  is  little  to  be  f-aid 
of  the  remaining  specimens  of  Russian 
art.  Two  r(X)ms  are  devoted  to  the 
jxjrtraits  of  members  and  ])residents  of 
the  Academy,  while  in  the  14th  room 
are  some  curious,  ill-executed  like- 
nesses of  Cossack  Hetmans,  and  a 
rather  good  picture  of  Sluih  INIurza- 
Kula-Khan.  The  last  room  contains 
j)ortraits  of  the  Kmperors  Paul,  Alex- 
ander I.,  Nicholas,  and  some  early 
sketches  by  numbers  of  the  imperial 
family.  Near  the  door  is  a  portrait  of 
I*eter  the  Great,  taken  after  death. 


11,  Corps  des  Mines.  Mining  SrhooJ. 
— This  large  and  important  eshiblish- 
ment  forms  a  striking  object  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  near  the 
western  extremity  of  the  Vassili  Ostrof. 
It  is  a  government  college  for  IMin- 
ing  Engineers  on  a  military  basis, 
and  contiiins  a  fine  C(»llecti(>n  of  models 
and  a  noble  Mineralogical  Collection. 
The  i)upils  are  al>out  250  in  number, 
and  dres.-.ed  in  military  uniform.  The 
eollection  was  connnenceil  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  last  century,  and  its  ex- 
pense was  at  first  defraye<l  out  of 
certain  sums  ])n\d  by  wild  Ba.shkir 
tribes.  The  su})erintendents  of  mines 
were  subsequently  ordered  to  contri- 
bute all  the  most  remarkable  specimens 
of  minerals  that  might  be  discovered. 
In  181G  the  mineralogical  collection  of 


Bussia.  Boute  1. — St.  Peter  slur  g :  Mining  School. 


119 


the  Hermitage  was  brought  here ;  and 
in  182;>  specimens  of  gold,  and  later 
of  platinum,  were  added. 

The  models  of  mines,  and  of  the 
machinery  used  in  working  them,  arc 
very  interesting.  Miners  are  repre- 
sented in  miniature  going  through 
the  several  operations  of  their  craft, 
underground  as  well  as  "to  grass." 
Tlie  illustrations  of  copper  and  other 
lodes  give  a  very  good  idea  of  those 
metalliferous  deposits;  nor  are  the 
models  of  the  processes  of  auriferous 
sand-washings  and  workings  less  in- 
structive. 

The  collection  of  minerals  is  the 
richest  perhaps  in  the  world,  its  only 
competitor  being  that  in  the  British 
Museum,  which,  as  a  scientific  collec- 
tion, is  more  complete  in  its  material 
and  in  its  arrangement,  although  it 
does  not  contain  such  an  accumulation 
of  the  most  splendid  and  costly  pro- 
ductions of  the  mineral  kingdom.  Tlie 
si)eciinens  of  gold  are  alone  worth 
nearly  10,000^,  and  vast  sums  have 
been  spent  on  the  beryls,  tourmalines, 
toj)azes,  and  other  sumptuous  minerals 
of  Siheria.  The  enormous  mineral 
wealth  of  the  great  portion  of  the  globe 
under  the  Russian  sceptre  is  lavishly, 
although  jierhaps  not  veiy  completely, 
represented  in  this  national  collection. 
A  very  cursory  inspection  of  some  of 
the  cases  will  satisfy  the  visitor  of  the 
extent  of  this  wealtli.  A  large  curled 
bar  of  native  gold,  and  several  nuggets 
and  some  good  crystals  of  that  metal, 
are  exposed  to  view ;  but  the  greater 
number  of  the  specimens  of  gold  are 
preserved  in  an  iron  safe.  The  whole 
of  these  are  from  the  Siberian  gold- 
fields,  especially  from  those  on  the 
eastern  sloixjs  f>f  the  Ural ;  except  a 
few  specimens  fr.>m  the  (piartz-veins 
of  the  neighbuurlKM)d  of  Ekaterinburg, 
One  nugget  is  valued  at  al)ove  4001)/, 
A  platinum  nugget  of  ten  pounds,  and 
a  smaller  one,  may  be  seen  by  the  side 
of  the  gold  specimens,  and  among  the 
other  treasures  of  the  collection  may 
be  mentioned  the  following  :— 

A  mass,  weighing  (37  Russian  pounds, 
of  the  rare  mineral  petzite,  composed  of 
bilver  and  the  rare  element  tellurinm, 
from  near  Barnaul  in  the  Altai  chain. 


A  very  large  mass  of  native  copper 
from  the  Kirghiz  Steppes. 

A  monster  crystal  of  topaz  of  a 
yellow  brown  hue,  given  by  the  Em- 
peror, and  valued  at  about  500/. 

Another  magnificent  and  equally 
unique  topaz  crystal  of  the  blue  variety, 
found  at  Murzinsk  in  Siberia,  of  a  fine 
colour,  and  with  its  crystalline  planes 
well  developed. 

The  beryls  from  Siberia  also  form  a 
magnificent  suite,  worthy  of  such  a 
treasure-house  as  the  Griine  Gewolbe 
of  Dresden,  Among  these  are  con- 
si)ieuous  a  flesh-coloured  crystal  from 
Murzinsk,  and  on  a  stand  by  itself  a 
large  crystal  of  green  beryl,  with  a 
weight  of  about  5  pounds  avoirdu- 
pois, and  valued  at  5000/,  There  are 
also  several  other  fine  transparent 
crystals  of  aquamarine,  and  of  the 
most  precious  variety  of  the  beryl,  dis- 
tinguished by  its  colour  as  the  eme- 
rald ;  the  crystjils  from  Ekaterinburg 
in  this  collection  are  extraordinarily 
fine,  and  although  rarely  so  clear  and 
limpid  as  those  from  New  Granada  or 
Peru,  they  far  excel  them  in  the  size 
whicli  their  crystids  attain, 

Tlie  tourmalines,  and  especially  those 
of  the  rose-coloured  variety  of  this 
mineral  termed  Rubellite,  which  Si- 
beria produces  in  the  greatest  beauty, 
are  also  a  very  rich  series. 

A  crystal  of  the  rare  and  almost 
exclusively  Russian  mineral  Phenakite 
(a  silicate  of  glucina)  is  perhaps  the 
finest  known  specimen  of  that  sub- 
stance, which  may  be  also  said  of  a 
specimen  exhibitt^d  here  of  the  emerald- 
green  garnet  called  Ouvarovite,  The 
Siberian  variety  of  chrysoberyl  (an 
aluminate  of  glucina)  termed  Alexan- 
drite (after  the  Emperor  Alexander  II.) 
is  represented  by  magnificent  speci- 
mens. This  mineral,  which  is  of  an 
emerald-green  in  daylight,  presents 
a  lilac  or  amethystine  colour  when 
seen  by  the  light  of  a  candle. 

Among  the  larger  specimens  in  the 
galleries  of  tlie  Corps  des  Mines  atten- 
tion may  be  drawn  to  a  solid  mass  of 
malachite,  weighing  29  cwt. ;  to  a  fine 
crystal  of  semi-opaque  greyish  quartz, 
weighing  10^  cwt,;  and  to  some  very 
tine  crybti\l3  of   Siberian  amethysts. 


120 


Botite  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Imj)crial  Library.        Sect.  1. 


Among  the  minerals  less  conspicuons 
for  their  size  or  beauty  arc  many  of 
high  value  and  scarcity,  but  tliey  pos- 
sess an  interest  almost  exclusively  for 
the  scientific  mineralogist. 

There  is  a  very  curious  model  of  a 
mine  in  the  garden  of  tlie  school,  and 
through  its  winding  passages  the 
visitor  is  led  by  the  guitles,  provided 
with  light(^d  tiipcrs,  and  initiated  into, 
the  general  character  of  mining  pro- 
cesses. Open  daily  from  10  to  4. 
Ticket  on  aj»i^licatiou,  gratis,  on  tlie 
l)remises. 


12.  The  IniperiaJ  Puhlic  Llhrary. — 
One  of  tlie  richest  libraries  in  Europe: 
it  occupies  a  l)uilding  tliat  adorns  one 
of  tlie  best  sites  in  the  city,  between 
the  IJazaar  and  tlie  Alexander  Theatre, 
a  .sh(»rt  distance  up  the  Xevski  Per- 
spective. It  is  open  to  readers  on 
ordinarv  davs  from  10  a.m.  to  9  p.m., 
and  on  holidays  from  12  to  8 ;  and  for 
inspection  on  Tuesdays  and  Sundays, 
when  a  librarian  accompanies  tiie 
visitors  and  exi)l;uns  tlie  various  ar- 
rangements. The  library  now  contains 
more  than  800.000  printed  vols.^  and 
about  20,000  !MSS.,  in  various  hiii- 
guages,  modern  and  ancient. 

It  owes  its  oriirin  to  a  collection  which 
once  belonged  to  Count  Zaluski.  a 
Polish  bislio}),  and  numbered  oOO.OOO 
vols.  On  the  capture  of  Warsaw  by 
Suwaroff,  in  1794,  the  Zaluski  liljrary 
was  transferred  to  St.  Petersburg,  and 
deposited  in  the  present  building,  the 
construction  of  which  was  then  ex- 
pressly commenced.  As  the  library 
grew  in  extent  the  building  was  en- 
larged, until  it  is  now  three  times  the 
size  of  the  original  dejjository.  The 
last  addition  to  the  building  was  made 
in  18G2,  when  a  reading-room,  which 
only  yields  in  jjeauty  and  magnitude 
to  that  of  the  British  Museum,  was 
constructed,  having  been  much  needed 
on  account  of  the  increasing  number 
of  students  who  resorted  to  the  library 
for  reference.  In  1854  the  reading- 
room  was  frequented  by  20,000  jx-r- 
sons,  and  in  18G4  the  number  had 
grown  to  73,000.  The  lil)rary  owes 
buch  a  remarkable   result  to  the  ad- 


ministration of  the  late  du-cctor,  Baron 
JModeste  Korff,  who  succeeded  in  ob- 
taining a  considerable  increase  in  the 
government  grant  for  the  purchase  of 
books  and  ]MSS.,  and  for  bringing  the 
catalogues  int<i  their  present  useful 
condition. 

The  collectif»n  of  ^MSS.  is  more 
]»articularly  important.  This,  as  well 
as  that  of  the  printed  books,  was 
enlarged  ])y  further  importations  from 
Poland,  and  ]>articularly  by  the  valu- 
able books  and  jMSS.  of  Peter  Du- 
browski,  i)urcliased  durhig  the  early 
tronliles  of  tlic  French  Revolution. 
The  3ISS.  of  the  latter  collection 
chiefly  relate  to  the  histf^ry  of  France, 
and  fonn  an  hivaluablc  series.  They 
consist  of  letters  from  various  kings 
of  France  and  their  amljassadors  at 
foreign  courts,  rejxjrts,  secret  stat<.' 
documents,  and  coriesjxaidenco  of 
European  sovereigns.  Tliese  interest- 
ing papers  were  dragged  from  the 
archives  of  Paris  by  an  infuriated 
l)opuIace,  and  sold  to  the  first  bidder, 
Oubrowski  purchased  them  ;  and  thus 
some  of  the  most  valuable  of  the  state 
papers  of  France  adorn  the  library  of 
St.  Petersburg.  A  volume  of  MSS. 
letters  from  English  sovereigns  is  ex- 
ceedingly interesting.  The  library  and 
MSS.  of  Count  II.  Suchtelcn  have  been 
added  ;  and  the  numerous  acquisitions 
of  MSS.  during  the  wars  with  Turkey, 
Circassia,  and  Persia,  have  contributed 
to  form  one  of  the  finest  collections  in 
the  world.  The  printed  volumes  arc 
catalogued  in  MS.,  according  to  lan- 
guage, names  of  authors,  and  matter; 
and  there  is  now  a  catiilogne  of  the 
]MSS.  A  list  of  the  mo^t  curious  may 
be  useful  :  The  Ostromir  MS.,  the 
oldest  extant  Kussian  manuscript,  was 
written  for  Ostromir,  an  ancient 
governor  of  Novgorod,  and  is  in  the 
Slavonian  cliaracter,  which  bears  much 
resemblance  to  the  Greek.  It  contains 
the  Evaiigelistarium,  or  Evangelists,  as 
read  in  the  Cireek  Church,  and  bears 
the  date  of  1050,  about  50  years  after 
Christianity  was  introduced  intoPussia. 
A  Codex,  containing  the  4  Evangelists, 
on  purple  vellum,  and  in  letters  of 
gold,  is  interesting  to  the  theologian. 
M.  Edouard  dc  Muralt,  minister  of  the 


Hussia."        Boutc  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  Imperial  Library. 


121 


Pelbrined   Church,    and    the    learned 
editor  of  an  edition  of  Minutius  Felix, 
has  published  an  account  of  this  MS., 
with  a  facsimile  of  the  character.     It 
was  taken  by  the  Russian  troops  under 
Field-marshal  Count  Paskcwitch,  dur- 
ing the  Russian  war  hi  Asia  Minor, 
A.D.  1829.     For  some  centuries  it  liad 
remained  in  the  convent  of  St.  John, 
near  the  village  of  Juniish  Khan,  and 
was  supposed  t<j  be;  the  work  of  the 
Empress  Theodora.     Several   charac- 
teristic marks  denote  it  to  l>eof  the  9th 
or   10th  centy. ;    and,  if  it  be  really 
from  the  pen  of  so  illustrious  a  person- 
age,   we    may   conclude   that   it  was 
writtcMi    by   the    Empress   Theodora, 
wife  of  the  Enqjcror  Theophilus,  who 
lived  in  the  middle  of  the  9th  centy. 
The  charact<>rs  are  clear  and  accurately 
formed ;  nor  are  the  contractions  nume- 
rous.    The  marginal  notes  are  in  let- 
ters of  silver.     Age   has   altered   the 
col(»ur  of  the  parchment,  which  is  now 
almost   black;    the   i^old   still   retains 
nmch  of  its  original  brightness.  There 
is  tm>   the   Codex   San   Oermanensis, 
formerly  appertaining  to  the  celebrated 
convent  of  St  Germains.     It  contains 
the  Epistles  of  St  Paul,  and  has  been 
referred   to  the   7th  centy.      Several 
Latin  MSS.  of  the  5th  centy.,  among 
which  may  be  mentioned  the  G  books 
De   Civitite   Dei;    one   of   the    mo.st 
ancient   MSS.  of   the   win-ks    of    St 
Gregory,  copied  by  I'anl  of  Aquileia  ; 
in  tlie  same  volume  is  a  letter  of  Paul 
the  Deacon,  the  historian  of  the  Lom- 
l.)ards,  tf)  Adalhard,  abbot  of  Corbie. 
The  works  of  Isidore  of  Seville,  7th 
centy.      Historia  Ecclesiastica  tripar- 
tita et  Cf)llecta  in  unum,  ex  Socrate, 
Sozomeno,  et  Theodorito,  in  Latinum, 
translata    a    Cassiodoro,    Senatore   et 
Epiphanio.     In  the  lirst  page  we  read, 
**Hic  codex  hero  insula  scriptus  fuit 
jnbento  sancto  patre  Adalhardo  dum 
exularit  ibi."     Adalhard  was  abbot  of 
Corbie  in  774.    Collectiones  Cassiani, 
from  the  Abbey  of  Corlnc,  of  the  7th 
centy.     The  works  of  St  Ambro.se,  of 
the  8th  centy. ;  of  Mena'us  Felix  Ca- 
pella,  of  Cicero,  of  Columella,  of  the 
9th  centy. ;  several  religious  composi- 
tions, and  ]\ISS.  of  various  portions  of 
the  Scriptures,  brought  from  a  conveut 


on  INIount  Athos,  chiefly  of  the  9th 
centy. ;  and  numerous  richly  illumi- 
nated MSS.  fiom  Byzantium,  adorned 
with  miniatures.  The  history  of  Eu- 
tro])ius,  W'hich  i\[.  de  IMuralt  believes 
as  ancient  as  the  end  of  the  9th  centy., 
and  conse(piently  one  of  the  oldest 
extant  of  the  works  of  that  author. 
One  of  the  most  important  additions 
to  the  31SS.  is  a  copy  of  the  Four 
Evangelists,  i)urporting  to  be  written 
in  the  11th  centy.,  and  presented  to 
the  Emperor  by  the  Zograph  Monas- 
terv,  on  Mount  Athos. 

The  collection  of  MSS.  is  further 
enriched    by     ancient     Hebrew    and 
Karaite  INISS.  that  once  belonged  to 
the    Firkowicz    family,   well-known 
Karaite    Jews.     It    is   generally  ac- 
knowledged to   be  the  most  unique 
collection  in  the  world.     It  contains  ^ 
MSS.    more    ancient    than     any    co- 
dexes  of  similar  contents  to  bo  found 
in  the  libraries  of  Europe.  At  lioyden 
and  Bologna  there  is  only  one  MS.  of 
the  kind  of  the  10th  centy. ;  in  France, 
there  is  no  Hebrew  IMS.  older  than  the 
nth,    and    in   England    none    more 
ancient   than   the    14th   centy.      Tlie 
Firkowicz   collection,    however,    con- 
tains 25  MSS.  earlier  than  the  9th 
centy.,  and  20  written  before  the  lOtli 
centy.     The  ]MSS.  on   skins,  so  rare 
that  even  the  British   Museum   pos- 
sesses only  a  single  copy,  are  decidedly 
the  most  ancient  of  any  known.     Nor 
can  mention  be  omitted  of  the  extracts 
from  the  Koran  in  the  Cufic  character, 
originally  deposited  in  a   mosque  at 
Cairo,  and  brought  tlience  by  ]M.  Glar- 
ed,  member    of    a   French   scientific 
expedition  in  the  days  of  Bonaparte. 
One  of  these  extracts  belongs  to  the 
earlier  period  of  Islamism,   and  the 
rest,  of  a  later  date,  were  probably 
used  as  specimens  of  Cufic  calligraphy. 
They  may  be  of   great  use  in   the 
interpretation   of    Cufic    inscriptions. 
The  collection  of  Oriental  MSS.,  re- 
cently enlarge<l  by  that  of  Mr.  Khani- 
kofl",  a  distinguished  Russian  Orient- 
alist, is  very  extensive.     Two  presses 
in  the  ]\rSS.  room  are  filled  with  the 
spoils  of  the  last  war  with  I'ersia,  and 
a  collection  of  MSS.  of  extraordinary 
beauty,    j)rcsented   to    the  Emperor 


122  Bovfe  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  Imperial  Library.        Sect.  I. 

Nicholas  by  the  Shah  of  Persia,  is  also    writing:  which  are  to  be  found  in  it, 


to  be  seen.  Anioiii;  the  works  of  the 
early  Froncli  writers  may  be  men- 
tioned, '  Les  Amours  de  Kene,  Roy  de 
Naples  et  de  Sicile,  et  de  Jeanne, 
(Jille  de  Guy  Comte  de  Laval,  i\\\'\\. 
e'pousa  en  seconde  noces,'  ricli  in  de- 
signs, which,  thou;^li  extravagant 
enou.2:h,  still  retain  much  brightness 
of  colour.  The  book  concludes  with 
the  following  lines,  beneatii  the  arms 
of  Anjou,  Naples,  and  Laval : — 

"  Jcy  sont  les  artnos  dessoiibs  costo  couronne 
l>u  licrgcr  dessiulit  et  de  Li  Dergoronne." 

It  is  said  to  be  an  autograph  work  of 
Rene';  but  this  may  be  doubted.  The 
'  Roman  de  Trove,'  from  th(>  library  of 
Charles  V.,  very  rich  in  miniatures 
and  arabesques.  Breviaire  d'Amour; 
Jen  d'^Vmonr,  very  curious;  Roman 
de  la  Ro.sc' ;  and  the  works  of  Guil- 
laume  de  (iuilloville  :  a  Seneca  and 
Cicero,  with  ex(juisite  miniatures,  by 
John  of  JJruges ;  the  Works  of  St. 
Jerome  splendidly  illuminated ;  the 
oMissal  of  Louisa  of  Savoy,  adorned 
with  24  miniatures,  said  to  have  been 
executed  inider  the  direction  of  Leo- 
nardo da  Vinci. 

Among  French  historical  works  in 
MS.  may  be  mentioned,  'Histoire 
de  Ctodcfroy  de  IJouillon,'  of  the 
13th  cent.:  'De  Origine  et  Gcstis 
Francorum,'  of  the  lltli  cent.;  'Les 
Livres  Historiaux,'  of  the  11th  cent. : 
'  LesChroniques  do  Jehan  de  Courcy.' 
2  vols,  in  folio;  the  original  ]MS.  of 
the  '  History  of  France'  of  Du  Tillet, 
dedicated  to  Charles  IX.,  and  adorned 
with  miniatures  of  the  kings  of  France, 
&c.  There  is  al.-iO  a  mi;?.sal  here  of 
great  interest  to  tlie  Kngli.shman,as  it 
formerly  belonged  to  INIary  (Jueen  of 
Scots :  it  is  <{uitc  perfect,  except  that 
in  tlie  illnminations,  with  which  it  is 
abundantly  ornamented,  there  have 
once  been  nunK;rous  coats  of  arms, 
every  one  of  which,  from  the  beginning 
of  the  book  to  the  end.  has  Ijeen  care- 
fully erase<l.  and  tiie  shields  left  va- 
cant. It  is  dihicult  to  guess  with 
what  object  this  has  been  done,  as  no 
other  mutilation  is  apparent.  The 
chief  interest  of  this  missal  lies  in 
numerous  scraps  of  the  queen's  hand- 


breathing,  in  general,  of  her  unhappy 
fortunes;  though,  it  must  be  owned, 
much  cannot  be  said  in  favour  of  her 
I)oetry,  the  exact  meaning  of  which  is 
not  always  very  clear.  Near  the  be- 
ginning is  written  across  the  bottom 
of  the  two  pages,  "  Ce  livre  est  a  moi. 
Marie  Reyne,ir)53"— the  last  figure 
is  very  indistinct. 

In  another  page  are  written  the  fol- 
lowing lines  in  the  queen's  hand: — 

"Un  cfcnr  que  routraue  martire 
Vav  un  niepris  on  tl'iin  refus 
A  lo  pouvoir  <ie  faire  dire, 
Je  ne  suis  pas  cc  que  jc  fus. 

Marik." 

In  another  place,  in  the  same  writing, 
are  these  verses  : — 

"  Qui  ianiai?  davanlape  ou^t  contraire  1p  sort 
>3i  la  \\c  ni'rst  nioiiis  utile  que  la  nmrt, 
Ki  plutost  (JUL-  changer  de  rues  maus  Tadven- 
tuie, 
Cliacuu  diaiigc  pour  moi  d'humcur  et  de 
nature. 

Marie  R." 

Below  these  lines  the  queen  lias 
scrawled  a  memorandum — "escrireau 
Secretare  pour  Douglas." 

In  a  collection  of  original  letters  is 
one  from  ]Marv  to  the  King  of  France, 
written  during  her  imprisonment,  in 
which,  addressing  the  king  as  Mmisieur 
man  Frire,  and  signing  herself  voire 
bonne  SiTur  Marie,  she  speaks  of  Doug- 
las, reconnnending  him  to  the  future 
favour  of  his  most  Ciiristian  Majesty, 
whom  she  at  the  same  time  thanks  for 
his  attention  to  her  former  request  in 
behalf  of  the  same  person.  In  another 
letter  from  Fotherin":av  Castle  the  un- 
haj)j)y  (jueen  expresses  her  too  well- 
grounded  fear  of  never  being  released 
from  prison.  This  collection  includes 
autograi>hsofIIcnryVl  I.,  Henry  VIII., 
Elizabetii,  James  I.,  Charles  I.,  and 
his  Queen  Henrietta,  with  those  of 
many  distinguished  persons :  among 
others,  Robert  Devereux,  Earl  of  Essex, 
in  whose  hand  are  2  or  l>  letters  to  the 
King  of  France,  expressing  the  deepest 
gratitu<le  and  devotion  to  his  most 
Ciiristian  Majesty,  and  entreating  for  a 
continuance  of  his  favour.  Among  the 
moftt  interesting  letters  is  a  long  one 


Eussia.  Boufe  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  Michael  Palace. 


123 


dated  at  St.  Germains,  from  Henrietta, 
Queen  of  Charhs  I.,  to  the  Sicur  Grig- 
iion,  begging  him,  if  ix)ssiblc,  to  procure 
from  the  Spedlers  of  the  tico  Jfouses 
<nid  the  General  a  pass  i'ov  herself  and 
her  attendants  to  enable  her  to  visit 
lier  husband  in  England,  and  to  remain 
with  him  as  long  as  can  be  permitted. 
The  queen  expresses  her  fears  that  tliis 
pass  will  be  refused,  but  she  reminds 
the  Sieur  Grignou  how  much  she  has 
the  object  at  heart,  and  assures  him 
of  her  eternal  gratitude  if  he  succeeds. 
She  then  offers  to  make  out  for  the 
insi)ection  of  the  Speakers  and  the 
General  a  list  of  the  attendants  whom 
she  proposes  to  bring  with  her,  in  order 
that  the  name  of  any  person  to  whom 
thevobicct  mav  be  omitted  in  the  i)ass. 
Amongst  the lettersof  French  monarchs 
are  those  of  Louis  XL,  Cliarles  VIII., 
Anne  <if  Rretai^ne.  Lonis  XII..  Fran- 
cis L,  Henry  IV.,  and  Louis  XiV.  A 
writing  exercise  of  the  latter  jtrince 
consists  of  this  liberal  maxim  — 
*'L'hommage  est  dene  aux  roys ;  ils 
font  ce  qu'il  leur  plait."  It  is  re- 
peated G  times,  and,  as  history  has 
proved,  with  considerable  effect. 

In  the  collection  of  printed  books, 
the  volumes  most  interesting  to  the 
traveller  are  those  which  rilate  to 
Russia  (Ilossiea),  in  all  languages, 
except  the  Russian.  This  collection 
was  formed  by  Baron  M.  Korff.  and 
now  contains  more  tlian  SO.HOO  works. 
The  collection  of  books  in  the  Ru.ssian 
language  numbers  90,000  vols. ;  that 
of  Russian  books  in  the  old  character, 
printed  before  Peter  the  Great,  is  very 
interesting,  containing,  as  it  does,  the 
first  i)rinted  version  of  the  Acts  of  the 
Apostles,  Moscow,  1568.  Early  Euro- 
pean printing  is  represented  by  about 
11.000  vols.,  beginning  from  Gutten- 
berg  to  the  year  1521.  These  arc 
partly  deposited  in  a  room  fitted  up 
in  the  style  of  the  middle  ages. 

Many  literary  curiosities  are  ex- 
hibited in  glass  cases.  The  series  of 
printed  versions  of  the  Bible  in  all 
the  known  languages  of  the  world  is 
most  complete.  Here  the  tmvcUer  may 
survey  with  pride  the  amazing  acti- 
vity of  English  missionaries.  The 
autographs   of   historical    celebrities, 

Mussia. — 18GS. 


illustrated  by  numerous  portraits ;  the 
specimens  of  writing  materials  used 
at  various  periods ;  and  the  series  of 
prints,  imidnced  by  every  known 
method  from  woodcuts  of  the  15th  cent, 
to  the  art  of  jihotography,  will  all 
arrest  the  eye  of  the  visitor.  The 
features  of  Peter  the  Great  may  like- 
wise here  be  studied  in  400  various 
lithographic  likenesses,  and  particu- 
larly in  a  Tartar  costume  of  the  latter 
part  of  the  17th  cent.  The  traveller 
will  find  occupation  for  days  if  he  be 
inclined  to  inspect  with  any  degree  of 
minuteness  all  these  literary  treasures, 
and  others  too  numerous  to  mention. 
A  room  is  ap}>ropriated  to  the  reading 
of  foreign  and  Russian  newspapers. 


13.  Foundling  Hospital.-  -This  esta- 
blishment was  originally  founded  in 
1778,  as  a  branch  of  that  at  Moscow. 
It  was  transferred  to  its  present  site 
on  the  Moika  Canal  in  1788.  The 
buildings  occupy  a  space  of  20,825 
square  fathoms.  About  6000  children 
are  annually  admitted  on  the  same 
principles  as  at  Moscow,  and  the 
average  daily  number  of  infantine  in- 
mates is  about  750.  A  lying-in  hos- 
pital and  a  school  of  midwifery  are 
also  attached.  For  particulars  respect- 
ing the  management  of  such  institu- 
tions in  liussia  the  traveller  is  referred 
to  the  description  of  the  Foundling 
Hospital  at  Moscow.  Admission  daily, 
on  application  to  the  Governor.  This 
institution  is  admirably  conducted, 
and  is  very  well  worth  the  seeing. 


14.  Michael  Palace. — This  Palace,  or 
rather  Castle,  as  distinguished  from 
the  Palace  of  the  Grand  Duchess  Helen 
Pavlovna,  stands  on  the  site  of  the 
old  Summer  Palace  on  the  Fontanka, 
which  was  pulled  down  by  the  Emperor 
I'aul,  who  built  this  of  granite  in  its 
stead,  fortified  it  as  a  place  of  defence, 
and  dedicated  it  to  the  Archangel 
ISIichael.  The  castle  has  a  more  gloomy 
exterior  than  the  other  palaces  of  St. 
Petersburg,  and  is  of  an  extraordinary 

u 


124 


Bouic  1. — St.  Pdershiwg  :  Tanrkla  Palace.  Sect.  I. 


stylo  of  architecture.  It  is  in  the  form 
of  a  sqiuire,  of  wliieli  the  four  fii(;sulc.s 
all  (lift'er  in  style  one  from  the  other;  the 
ditches  which  ori*;inally  surrounded  it 
arc  now  partly  tilled  up  and  laid  out 
in  gardens,  but  the  principal  entrance 
is  still  over  some  drawbridges.  In  the 
square  before  the  chief  gate  stands  a 
monument  whicli  Paul  erected  to  Peter 
the  Cireat,  with  the  inscription,  "Pro- 
dcdu  I'ravuuk  "  f  the  Grandson  to  tlie 
Grandfatlier).  Vide  "  Monuments.  " 
Over  the  principal  door,  which  is  over- 
loaded with  architectural  ornaments, 
is  inscribed  in  golden  letters  a  i)assage 
from  the  Bible  in  the  old  Slavonian 
language:  "On  thy  house  will  the 
blessing  of  the  Lord  rest  for  ever- 
more." 

This  palace  was  built  witli  extraor- 
dinary rapidity,  between  17i)7  and 
1801 ;  5000  men  were  employed  on  it 
daily  till  finished;  an<l,  the  more 
quickly  to  dry  the  walls,  large  iron 
plates  were  made  liot  and  fastened  to 
ithem  for  a  time  ;  the  result  was,  that 
soon  after  the  P^mperor's  death  it  was 
abandoned  as  quite  uninhabitable;  the 
cost  of  building  it  is  said  to  have  been 
18,000,000  rubles  ;  liad  sullicient  time 
been  taken,  it  would  notliave  amounted 
to  six.  The  halls  and  apartments  of 
the  castle  arc  large  and  numerous.  A 
fine  marble  staircase  leads  to  the  first 
story,  and  the  vestibules  and  corridors 
are  paved  with  beautiful  kinds  of 
marble.  The  floorings  of  the  saloons 
were  taken  from  the  Taurida  Palace, 
because  the  new  ones  were  not  ready. 
They  have  since  been  restored  to  tlieir 
old  places.  The  room  in  which  the 
Emperor  Paul  met  with  his  tragical  end 
is  now  converted  into  a  chapel,  after 
having  been  walled  uj)  during  tlie  two 
preceding  reigns.  The  })ainti'd  ceilings 
have  considerable  interest.  In  (mo  is 
represented  the  revival  of  tlie  order  of 
'Maltji,  andRutlienia,  abeautiful  virgin, 
v/ith  the  features  of  Paul,  seated  on  a 
mountain.  Near  her,  the  mighty  eagle. 
Fame,  flying  from  the  south  in  terror, 
announces  tlie  injustice  done  her  in 
the  Mediterranean,  and  i-ntreats  the 
mighty  eagle  to  shelter  her  under  his 
wing.  In  the  distance  is  seen  the 
island  threatened  by  the  waves  and 


the  hostile  fleets.  In  another  hall  all 
the  gods  of  (ireecc  arc  assembled, 
and  their  physiognomies  arc  those 
of  persons  of  the  Court.  The  architect, 
whose  purse  profited  considerably  by 
the  building  of  the  castle,  appears 
among  them  as  a  flying  INIercury. 
When  Paul,  who  was  a  ready  punster, 
and  who  knew  very  well  that  all  the 
money  he  paid  was  not  changed  into 
stone  and  wood,  caused  the  dift'erent 
faces  to  be  pointed  out  to  him,  he  re- 
cognised the  face  of  the  Mercury 
directly,  and  said  laughing  t<i  his 
courtiers,  "  Ah  !  voilii  Tarchitecte,  qui 
voUr 

The  palace  is  now  tlie  alw<lc  of  the 
School  of  Engineers,  under  the  direc- 
tion of  the  famous  General  Todleben, 
to  whom  application  must  be  made  to 
view  it. 


15.  Taurida  Palare. — This  was  built 
hi  178o,  by  Catherine  II.,  and  giv«'U 
by  her  to  Field-lNIarshal  Potemkiu 
after  he  had  conquered  the  Crimea  and 
received  the  submission  of  the  King  of 
Georgia.  The  Empress  subsequently 
repmrhased  it.  The  palace  is  famous 
for  the  entertainments  given  there  by 
the  magnificent  l*rince.  Later  it  was 
tenanted  l)y  Louisa,  the  ])eautiful  but 
unfortunate  (iueen  of  Prussia  ;  by  the 
Persian  Envoy,  Kliozro  Mirza ;  and 
lastly,  in  1830,  by  Osear,  Crown  Prince 
of  Sweden.  The  Emperor  Paul  turned 
the  entire  palace  into  a  barrack  ibr  his 
guards ;  but  his  successor  restored  it 
to  its  more  befitting  purpose  of  a  royal 
residence.  It  is  now  occui)ied  by  siq)er- 
annuatcd  ladies  of  the  Imperial  Court. 
The  garden  is  very  ext<Misive  and  well 
laid  out.  The  })est  i>ictures  have  been 
removed  to  other  collections,  and  there 
remains  but  little  of  interest  within  to 
gratify  any  curiosity  beyond  that  of 
viewing  the  palace  built  for  the  favour- 
ite of  Catherine  the  Circat. 


IG.  Arsenal  Museum.  —  Admission 
gratis,  daily  from  11  to  3,  except  on 
holidays.       Tickets    to   be   obtained 


Russia.         Boufe  l.—St.  Petcrshirg  :  Arsenal  Museum, 


125 


at  the  Artillery  Dci)artment,  Sergief- 
sky  street. 

This  Museum,  which  is  situated 
near  the  Taurida  Palace,  and  opposite 
the  new  C<»urts  of  Law,  will  well  re- 
pay a  visit.  In  front  of  the  building, 
which  is  that  of  the  '•  New  Arsenal," 
is  a  long  array  of  cannon,  Russian, 
Turkish,  Persian,  and  Swedish.  A 
brass  gun  of  huge  dimensions  to  the 
right  of  the  j)rinci])al  entrance  was 
reduced  in  length  by  the  extraordi- 
nary process  of  a  jjiece  being  taken  out 
of  it.  jind  by  the  remaining  parts  being 
welded  together.  Peter  the  Great,  in 
whose  reign  this  was  elfected,  ordered 
the  statue  of  the  man  who  eonecived 
and  carried  out  the  project  to  be  cast 
in  bronze,  and  it  will  accordingly  l)c 
seen  in  a  recess  of  the  lobby,  which 
the  visitor  will  enter,  and  where  also 
stjinds  a  Russian  cannon  of  the  17th 
centy.  A  winding  staircase  leads  to  a 
gallery  of  great  length,  in  which  the 
]Museum  is  arranged.  The  sergeant 
who  will  accompany  the  visitor  will 
first  take  him  to  the  left  of  the  stair- 
case, and  beginning  with  the  cases  on 
the  right-hand  side  of  the  gallery  will 
point  out  the  ]u-iiicipal  objects  of  in- 
terest in  the  following  order  : — 

(1.)  Case  containing  military  uni- 
forms worn  by  Alexander  I.,  and  in  a 
small  case  next  to  it  the  uniforms  of 
Peter  III. 

(2.)  Next  to  it  the  huge  standard  of 
the  Strcltsi  troops,  made  of  pieces  of 
silk  sewed  together  and  adorned  with 
many  highly  original  pictures  charac- 
teristic of  that  fanatical  Russian  i)rie- 
torian  band.  In  the  middle  of  this 
flag  is  a  representation  of  God  the 
Father  lK)lding  the  last  judgment; 
over  his  head  is  the  azure  sty  of  para- 
dise, beneath  him  blaze  the  flames  of 
the  infernal  gulf;  at  his  right  hand 
stand  the  just,  that  is,  a  chorus  of 
Russian  priests,  a  division  of  Strcltsi, 
and  a  number  of  Ix'ardcd  Russians; 
to  his  left  the  unbelievers  and  the 
wicked,  that  is,  a  tribe  of  Jews,  Turks, 
and  Tartars,  negroes,  and  another 
crowd  in  the  dresses  of  Nyemtz/'j  or 
Germans.  Under  each  group  the 
national  name  is  inscribed;  and  so 
also,  by  those  tormented  in  the  flames 


of  hell:— "a  Turk,"  "a  German,^ 
(or  foreigner)  ''a  miser,"  "a  mur- 
derer," &c.  IVIany  angels,  armed  with 
iron  rods,  are  busied  in  delivering  the 
rest  of  the  unbelievers,  the  shrieking 
Jews,  ]\Iahomedans,  and  other  in- 
fidels, to  the  custody  of  the  devils. 

A  number  of  the  accoutrements  of 
the  Strcltsi  lie  in  the  vicinity  of  this 
extraordinary  standard,  and  imme- 
diately under  it  are  some  ju-imitive 
Russian  cannon  from  Old  Novgorod. 

(o.)  Stenka  Razin's  Stool.  This  is 
one  of  the  greatest  curiosities  in  the 
Museum.  The  great  robber  chief  of 
the  Casi)ian  delivered  judgment  on 
this  seat,  and  with  the  aid  of  the 
eight  pistols  which  are  set  round  it, 
he  generally  carried  into  immediate 
execution  the  verdicts  which  he  pro- 
nounced. His  stick,  studded  with 
brass  nails,  likewise  a  formidalde 
weapon,  stands  behind  the  stool,  as  an 
emljlem,  probably,  of  authority.  After 
committing  many  horrible  depreda- 
tions he  was  at  last  captured  and 
beheaded  ivide  Hist.  Notice). 

IJehind  the  stool  is  another  standard 
of  the  Strcltsi,  of  the  reign  of  I*cter 
and  John,  with  a  representation  of 
St.  George,  and,  in  the  vicinity,  hal- 
berts,  maces,  partizans,  and  battle- 
axes  of  the  17th  centy. 

(4.)  The  objects  next  in  importance 
are  the  revolving  batteries,  mounted 
on  wheels,  like  ordnance,  all  of  the 
17th  centy.  The  one  that  moves  hori- 
zontally is  composed  of  brass  mortars, 
while  the  "Organ"  (No.  1049)  is  a 
machine  for  firhig  otf  105  justols  suiiul- 
taneously.  In  the  neighbourhood  of 
the  other  "organs"  is  a  collection  of 
halberds,  partizans,  etc.,  of  the  reign 
of  Alexis,  to  which  epoch  the  three 
breech-loading  culverins  likewise  be- 
long. 

(5.)  The  gun,  with  a  mouth  almost 
square,  will  be  pointed  out  as  the 
''  Drobovik,"  or  shot-gun,  of  Peter 
the  Great.  The  inscription  on  this 
curious  jjiece  of  ordnance  shows  that 
it  was  cast  at  Olonetz,  near  the  White 
Sea,  A.D.  1722. 

The  array  of  artillery  on  this  side 
terminates  with  a  row  of  old  Russian 
culverins. 

H  2 


12G 


JRoute  1. — Sf.  Petersburg  :  Arsenal  Museum.  Sect.  I. 


(ii.)  The  veliiclc  to  which  the  notice 
of  the  visitor  will  now  be  directed  is 
*'  Shuvaloirs  car."  It  is  of  a  stranj^e 
structiir(\  and  besides  beinf?  profusely 
j;ilded  is  painted  briglit  red.  The 
elevated  seat  is  Hankeil  by  kettle- 
drums, and  protected  from  behind  by 
an  alleii^orical  ti<::nre  holding  a  spear. 
The  artillery  tropliies  with  wliich  this 
ear  is  decoratecl  on  every  side  indi- 
cates the  purposes  for  which  it  was 
constructed.  Drawn  by  ei<j:]it  horses, 
it  bore  the  banner  or  standard  of  the 
artillerv,  which  wns  fixed  in  front  of 
the  carriage,  while  the  sent  was  occu- 
pied by  a  drum  mnjor.  wlio  playi'cl  on 
the  two  kettledrums.  Tiie  car  is 
called  after  Shuvaloil,  who  Avas  (iiand 
Master  of  the  Ordnance  in  th(^  reign  of 
the  Emi)ress  Klizabeth.  There  ap- 
pears no  foundation  for  the  assertion 
that  Suwaroft'  harangued  his  troops 
from  it. 

(7.)  The  automaton  drummer  at  the 
end  of  the  i^allcrv  was  l)rought  from 
Kiga.  Probal)ly  of  the  reign  of  Peter. 
History  unknown. 

(8.)  At  the  upper  i)art  of  the  gallery 
is  a  very  large  collection  of  tlie  helmets 
and  accoutrements  tliat  belonged  tf) 
the  Holste'in  troops  of  Peter  III.  On 
one  of  the  drums  will  be  seen  the 
inscription— 

"  Geschickllchkoit  iind  GlUck 
Machet  deii  Kiinlg." 

In  a  case  near  arc  tlie  military 
Bashes.  Russian  and  foreign,  worn  by 
Peter  III.,  and  the  four  small  cannon 
are  likewise  his. 

(9.)  The  two  mounted  horsemen 
rei)resent  tlie  bodyguard  of  the  Em- 
press Elizabeth.  The  man  in  European 
armour  is  mounted  on  a  Kirgliiz 
horse,  while  the  otlier  will  easily  be 
recognised  as  a  Chinese  cavalier.  Tliey 
l)oth  preceded  the  carriage  of  the 
Empress  on  state  occasions.  Close  to 
them  is  a  suit  of  black  armour,  worn 
in  tlie  funeral  procession  of  the  same 
sovereign. 

(10.)  Stand  1112  holds  pistols, 
swords,  and  other  weapons  of  the 
reign  of  the  Emi)ress  Anne.  Opi)osite 
is    a   cannon   with    seven   chambers, 


dated  1750.  Her  colours  and  a  brass 
liowitzer  stand  near. 

(11.)  Arms,  &c.,  tempo  Peter  the 
Great. 

(12.)  On  the  top  of  a  glass  case 
near  the  window  is  the  hat  worn  by 
Peter  the  Great  at  Poltswa;  beneath 
are  his  sword  and  other  accoutre- 
ments. 

(13.)  Case  102  contains  the  white 
leather  coat  which  the  Tsar  wore  at 
Saardam,  and  in  case  101  is  a  leather 
garment  which  he  sometimes  wore 
imder  his  military  dress.  In  the  same 
case  are  several  uuifoiins. 

(14.)  Among  Peter  the  Great's  relics 
will  be  found  the  cabriolet  with  which 
lit!  measured  roads,  the  number  of 
revolutions  made  by  the  wheels  being 
shown  1)V  the  machinerv  contained  in 
the  box  behind.  On  the  lid  of  this 
box  is  a  curious  old  i)icture,  re[)re.sent- 
ing  Peter's  motle  of  travelling.  It  is 
a  drawing  of  the  cabriolet  itself, 
drawn  by  one  horse,  and  driven  by 
Peter.  13ehind  him  are  newly-built 
houses  and  gardens,  laid  out;  before 
him  a  forest  and  a  wilderness,  to  the 
annihilation  of  which  he  is  boldly 
l)roceeding :  behind  him  tlie  chmds 
arc  serene,  before  him  the  clouds  are 
heaped  up  like  rocks.  As  this  picture 
was  probably  designed  by  the  Tsar 
himself,  it  shows  what  he  thought  of 
himself. 

(15.)  A  curious  revolver  of  large 
dimensions,  made   bv  order  of  Peter 

7  •- 

the  Great.  It  stands  opi)osite  to  a 
picture  on  glass  of  the  Ijattle  of  I'ol- 
tava. 

( IG.)  A  case  of  uniforms,  being 
those  of  the  several  military  ranks 
through  which  Peter  passed  as  private, 
captain,  and  colonel.  No.  74  is  the 
identical  coat  he  wore  at  Poltava. 

(17.)  The  stand  No.  185G  hohls  the 
key  of  the  fortress  of  Derbent,  surren- 
dered to  Peter's  troops.  Guns  and 
colours  of  the  same  period  will  be  seen 
in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

(18.)  The  case  which  will  be  reache<l 
next,  and  which  will  be  found  close  to 
the  top  of  the  staircase,  contains, 
among  other  uniforms  and  some  colours 
of  the  militia  of  1812,  the  iniiform  in 
wliich     General    Miloradovitch    was 


Russia.  Route  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  Arsenal  Museum. 


127 


shot  during  the  rebellion  that  broke 
out  at  St.  Petersburg,  on  the  14  th 
Dec.  1825.  The  hole  made  by  the 
bullet  that  pierced  his  heart  is  to  be 
seen. 

(19.)  In  the  case  at  the  window 
(No.  1850)  is  a  cast  from  the  face  of 
the  great  Suwaroft'. 

The  gallery  is  in  this  part  decorated 
with  Russian  weapons  and  armour. 

(20.)  Chinese  and  Japanese  war- 
riors. Next  to  these  are  accou- 
trements, guns,  and  colours  tempo 
Catherine  II.,  and  her  portrait. 

(21.)  In  a  small  case  near  (No.  238) 
the  cross  of  the  Russian  military  order 
of  St.  George,  presented  to  the  Em- 
peror Francis  I.  of  Austria  by  Alex- 
ander I.,  in  commemoration  of  the 
allied  campaign  of  1813-1815,  and 
returne*!  after  his  death. 

(22.1  Ca.se  No.  9.  Uniform,  &c.,  of 
Frederick  tlie  Great.  Collection  of 
foreign  swords. 

(23.)  A  row  of  captured  cannon,  &c. : 
1 ,  Prussian  ;  2,  Swedish  (with  a  saddle 
and  spurs  said  to  have  belonged  to 
a  king  of  Sweden,  and  found  in  Riga)  ; 
3,  Turkish  :  shields,  pasha's  tails,  and 
the  brass  cupolas  of  mosques,  taken  at 
15ender  and  Ismail  in  1786 ;  4,  Per- 
sian, with  a  mountain  gun  on  a  saddle ; 
Persian  uniforms  taken  in  182G.  Can- 
non from  Riga,  and  French,  Portu- 
guese, Italian,  and  Bavarian  ordnance  ; 
and  lastly,  Polish  guns  in  the  corner. 

(24.)  At  this  extremity  of  the  gallery 
is  a  bust  of  Alexander  I.  Behind  it 
and  on  each  side  are  regimental  colours 
of  the  reign  of  Paul. 

(25.)  12  brass  field  guns,  presented, 
as  shown  by  the  inscriptions  on  them, 
to  the  Emperor  Alexander  I.  hy  Gus- 
tavus  Adolphus,  **  not  as  trophies,  but 
in  token  of  friendship,  in  the  war  of 
1807."     They  were  cast  in  1779. 

(2G.)  "Musket  Battery."  A  very 
curious  park  of  artillery,  consisting  of 
IG  pieces,  presented  to  the  Emperor 
Nicholas  by  the  King  of  Denmark  in 
1853.  Eight  of  these  diminutive  guns 
liave  3  chambers,  and  the  rest  have 
only  one  small  bore. 

(27.)  Tlie  visitor  will  come  next  to 
the  2  cases   containing   the   military  i 
C()stiinies  of  the  Empress  Catherine  11. 1 


Next  to  these,  in  3  cases,  are  the 
uniforms,  &c.,  worn  by  the  Emperor 
Nicholas.  Behind  them  are  full-length 
portraits  of  Alexander  I.  and  Nicho- 
las I.,  and  in  the  corner  the  "  drojky  " 
which  the  Emperor  Alexander  I.  drovo 
through  France  and  Germany  during 
the  campaign  of  1812-1815.  Opposite 
is  a  portrait  of  Paul  I. 

(28.)  A  steam  gun.  No.  '^^f,  in- 
vented by  General  Karelin,  in  reign 
of  Nicholas  I. 

(29.)  Two  horses  of  Catherine  11. 
stuffed.  The  Empress  rode  the  white 
horse  astride  when  she  entered  Peter.s- 
burg  to  take  the  throne  on  the  28th 
June,  17G2.  {Vide  Princess  Woron- 
zow  Dashkoff  s  ^Memoirs.) 

(30.)  Cases  containing  orders  of 
knighthood,  &(i.  :  1,  orders  worn  by 
Nicholas  I. ;  2,  decorations  worn  by 
Alexander,  jewel,  star,  and  garter  of 
the  Order  of  the  Garter ;  3,  swords,  &c., 
that  belonged  to  Alexander  I.  The 
visitor  will  be  struck  by  the  great 
number  of  orders  here  preserved  as 
those  worn  by  Alexander  I.  The  broad 
ribbon  of  the  Russian  Order  of  St. 
George  is  not  among  them.  The  Em- 
peror would  not  accept  it,  although  it 
was  decreed  to  him  several  times  by 
the  Chapter  of  the  Order  and  the 
senate.  Tliis  order  is  only  given  for  a 
great  battle  won,  for  the  preservation 
of  the  empire,  or  for  the  restoration  of 
peace  by  a  series  of  military  exploits  ; 
and  the  Emperor,  who  could  not 
ascribe  any  of  tlieso  deeds  to  himself 
personally,  refused  the  honour,  in 
order  to  maintain  the  credit  of  the 
order  and  its  laws. 

(31.)  Banner  and  armour,  of  which 
one  black,  the  other  gold,  used  in  the 
funeral  procession  of  the  EmjDcrors 
Alexander  I.  and  Nicholas. 

(32.)  Having  returned  to  the  top  of 
the  staircase,  the  visitor  will  find 
opposite  to  it  the  rocking-horse  of  the 
Emperor  Paul ;  and,  lastly,  exactly 
opposite  the  top  of  the  staircase,  near 
the  ceiling : — 

(33.)  A  large  Russian  eagle,  whose 
neck,  body,  and  legs  are  composed 
of  gun-flints,  while  the  jiinions  ore 
sword-blades,  and  the  eyes  muzzles 
of  two  black  pistols.    Having  viewed 


128  Bonfe  1. — >S'/.  Pelerslmrg  :  Imperial  Carriages.         Sect.  I. 


iliis  inj^onious  objoet,  and  inscribod 
l)is  name  in  a  book  wliicli  will  be 
handed  for  the  purpose,  the  visitor 
will  leave  by  the  same  winding  stair- 
case, not  forgettinjjf  to  <T^ive  a  fee  of 
.50  c.  (or  1  rouble  if  the  party  be 
numerous)  to  the  military  cicerone. 


17.  Museum  of  Impe rial  Carrlacjcs. — 
Admission  daily  by  a])plication  on  the 
l)reniises,  end  of  Stable-street. 

The  fine  collection  of  carriai^es  con- 
tained in  tliis  museum  sliould  bo 
visited  by  every  traveller  wlio  wishes 
to  carry  away  witli  him  tlie  conviction 
that  he  has  seen  all  the  remarkable 
si*i:hts  of  St.  IVtersburc:. 

Commenced  in  IS.lT.the  "Historical 
Museum  of  Imperial  Carria;j;es  "  was 
linislied'in  ISOO.  Tlie  lower  story  is 
devoted  to  the  travelling:  and  town 
equii)a,2fes  of  tlie  court,  while  the  upper 
Hat  contains  the  splendid  gala  car- 
riages of  successive  sovereigns  of 
Russia,  many  of  them  decorated  witli 
paintings  by  Watteau,  Boucher,  and 
Gravelot. 

The  tapestry  with  which  t]i(^  walls 
of  the  museum  are  covered  will  alone 
repay  a  visit.  IMost  of  it  is  from  the 
(xobelins  manufactory,  having  been 
removed  hither  from  the  Taurida 
l*alace,  where  the  preeif)us  webs  had 
long  lain  packed  up  and  unused. 
There  are  also  a  few  specimens  of 
Russian  tapestry  made  at  a  manu- 
factory founded  at  St.  l*etersburg,  in 
171 G,  by  Peter  the  Great,  but  no 
longer  extant.  Around  tlie  court- 
yard of  the  museum  are  the  work- 
shops in  which  the  Imperial  carriages, 
harness,  &c.,  are  made  and  reiiaired  ; 
also  the  stables  and  othces  for  the 
grooms  and  other  servants  attached 
to  the  department  of  the  INIaster  of 
the  Horse;  and  altogether  the  esta- 
blishment is  on  a  scale  so  large  and 
costly  as  to  be  unique  of  its  kind  in 
Europe. 

On  ascending  the  principal  stair- 
case, the  visitor  will  be  struck  with 
the  beauty  of  the  Ciobclins  tapestry 
representing  the  apparition  of  the 
Cross  to  Coustantiue  the  Great ;  to 


the  rt.  on  the  next  floor  is  another 
fine  piece  of  old  tapestry  depicting 
the  expulsion  of  Haman  from  the 
Temple,  while  opposite  to  it  is  "  Ha- 
man imploring  pardon  of  Esther." 
The  two  former  are  irom  i)ictur(>s 
painted  by  Raphael,  and  the  latter 
is  the  copy  of  a  picture  by  Le  lirun, 
painter  to  Louis  XIV.,  and  Director 
of  the  Gobelins  manufactory.  At  the 
top  of  this  staircase  is  the  skeleton 
of  the  favourite  charger  of  the  Em- 
peror Nicholas.  The  three  rooms  on 
the  upper  story  and  their  contents  will 
be  seen  in  the  following  order : — 

1st  Room.  Gobelins  Tapestry.  "  The 
Triumph  of  Mordecai,"  from  picture 
by  Le  lirun,  and  five  landscapes,  &c. 
The  furniture  is  covered  with  tai)estry 
bearing  the  Polish  eagle. 

Carriages ;— Nos.  11)  to  27,  made  at 
St.  Petersburg  by  ja-ivate  coach- 
builders  ;  three  sedan-chairs,  of  which 
one,  surmounted  with  an  imperial 
crown,  and  with  small  Jewelled  crowns 
at  the  four  corners,  was  made  at  the 
Imperial  Carriage  Works  for  the  Em- 
press Alexandra  Feodorowna  in  185G. 
Lastly — 

2nd  Room.  Gobelins  Tapestry.  Ara- 
besques, vases  with  flowers,  Aurora 
(after  (hiido) ;  the  Alliance  of  Love 
(also  after  G.  lieni) ;  and  arabesques 
(20  to  22),  with  border  after  liaphael 

Carriages: — On  rt,  (Xo,  1)  :  carriage 
sent  in  174G  by  Frederick  the  Great 
to  the  Empress  Elizabeth,  restored  in 
18oG,  The  arms  of  Russia  are  en- 
crusted on  the  panels  in  imitation 
stones,  and  the  imperial  crown  which 
surmounts  the  carriage  is  similarly 
decorated.  Scat  in  front  for  i)a  ges. 
The  Princess  Dagmar  of  Denmark 
made  her  solemn  entry  into  St.  Peters- 
burg in  this  carriage,  seated  next  the 
empress. 

(2.)  P^our-scated  carriage,  brought 
in  17G2  from  Paris,  restored  IHoG. 
Panels  by  Boucher.  The  arms  of 
Russia  will  be  seen  in  the  midst  of  a 
group  of  Naiades,  The  I'rinccss  Dag- 
mar rode  in  this  carriage  on  the  occa- 
sion of  her  marriage. 

(33.)  I'haetou  of  bronze  gilt,  built 


Kiissia.        Bonte  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Imperial  Carriages. 


129 


18oG  at  the  Imperial  Works,  and  used 
by  high  officers  of  the  court  at  corona- 
tions. 

(4.)  Carriage  obtained  in  17G5  from 
Count  Orloff,  and  used  by  Catherine 
II.  Panels  by  Gravelot,  a  distin- 
guished painter  of  allegories  in  reign 
of  Louis  XV. 

(34.)  Calcche  brought  from  Eng- 
land in  1795  by  Prince  Orloflf  for 
Catherine  II.  Restored  185G.  Panels 
said  to  be  by  Boucher;  on  the  sides, 
Laljour,  Abundance,  Conmierce,  In- 
dustry ;  Cupids  strewing  flowers ;  be- 
hind, Apollo  and  the  Muses.  The 
driving-box  is  ui>held  by  two  eagles 
richly  carved,  while  the  back  of  the 
carriage  is  guarded  by  two  figures  of 
St.  George  and  the  Dragon.  An  im- 
jierial  crown,  jewelled,  on  roof. 

(30,  31.)  Phaetons,  like  No.  33. 

(D.)  Carriage  purchased  17^4.  Panels 
with  cipher  of  5s^icholas  I. 

(10,)  Purchased  1707,  and  used  by 
Paul  I, 

On  left  :— 

(S.)  Carriage  built  1793  by  Boukcn- 
dahl  for  Catherine  II.  Restored  182G 
and  185G,  Arms  of  Russia  on  panels 
in  imitation  stones. 

(14  to  17.)  Carriages  made  at  tlie 
Imperial  Works,  18o3-lS5G. 

(3.)  Carriage  purchased  17G2. 

(12.)  Purchased  at  Paris,  1825,  by 
Prince  Wolkonsky. 

(G.)  Carriage  purchased  by  Cathe- 
rine II,  in  179:).  I'ainting  by  Gravelot, 
In  front  '*  Venus  leaving  her  bath ;" 
on  rt.  panel,  Juno ;  on  1,,  a  Shepherd 
guarding  his  flock ;  and  behind, 
Olympus  with  Catherine  bringing 
Peace  and  Plenty.  The  interior  of 
this  carriage,  and  the  driving-seat,  are 
richly  decorated  with  Spanish  point. 

3rd  Room.  Tapestry. — Arabesques 
(49  to  51,  after  Raphael) ;  52,  Triumph 
of  Bacchus  {G.  Beni)  ;  53,  Triumph  of 
Cupid  ( G.  L'rni). 

Carriages :— On  rt.  (32).  Phaeton 
{vide  33). 

(5.)  Carriage  purchased  by  Cathe- 
rine II,  in  179G,  Panels  by  Boucher. 
Cipher  of  Catherine  with  allegories 
on  doors.  On  panels,  Cupids  ;  and  on 
panel  behind  the  carriage,  a  likeness 


of  the  empress.  Two  stools  in  front 
for  pages. 

(13.)  Carriage  made  at  the  Imperial 
Works,  1850. 

(11.)  Brought  from  Paris,  1797. 
Panels  by  Boucher.  Allegories  with 
incrustations  of  mother  of  pearl.  Paint- 
ing remarkably  fine. 

(7.)  Purchased  in  1780  by  Catherine 
II„  and  used  by  consort  of  Nicholas  I. 
at  her  coronation.  Cipher  of  the  Em- 
peror <in  panels. 

On  left  (41).  Sledge  for  ten  people. 

(3G.)  Vis-a-vis  presented  to  Cathe- 
rine II.  l)y  a  Russian  general,  17G3. 
Cupids,  very  finely  painted,  attributed 
to  13oucher. 

(47.)  Sledge,  1799. 

(42.)  Sledge  for  ten  persons,  pur- 
chased of  Boukendahl,  1793,  for  Ca- 
therine II.  Small  sledges  for  twelve 
persons  more  can  be  attached  to  it. 
Used  ])y  the  court  in  Carnival  time, 
out  of  town. 

(29,)  Phaiiton,  presented  by  Count 
Bliihm,  Danish  Minister,  to  Empress 
IMarie  Feodorowna. 

(37.)  Vis-a-vis,  presented  to  Cathe- 
rine II.  by  Count  P.  Tchernisheft',  in 
17GG,  Painting  and  incrustations  of 
mother  of  pearl,  very  fine. 

4th  Room.  Gohelin  Tapestry. — Or- 
pheus and  the  Muses  (Jlaphael) ;  and 
three  landscapes. 

Carriages  .-—The  greatest  curiosity 
in  this  museum  is  (38)  the  sledge  of 
Peter  the  Great,  made  entirely  with  his 
own  liands.  This  interesting  object  is 
protected  from  the  influence  of  time 
by  a  glass  case.  The  trunk  behind 
the  sledge  contained  the  clothes  and 
provisions  of  the  great  Tsar  when  he 
travelled.  It  will  be  seen  that  the 
windows  are  of  mica.  Alexander  L 
caused  the  sledge  to  be  brought  from 
Archangel,  where  Peter  the  Great  had 
left  it  after  a  journey  from  St.  Peters- 
burg, whither  he  returned  on  wheels. 

Among  the  other  sledges  in  this 
room,  the  most  remarkable  is  perhaps 
No.  40,  "The  3Iasqucrade  Sledge/' 
built  in  17G4  by  Brogantz,  an  Italian. 
It  is  of  very  peculiar  form,  the  seat 
being  composed  of  a  i)eep-show  box 
carried  by  a  show-man.    A  figure  in 


130 


Roufe  1. — Sf.  Petersburg :  Naval  Museum.  Sect.  I. 


the  dross  of  a  Imrloquin  is  placed  in  the 
front ;  while  another,  in  tlie  garb  of 
a  Levantine,  is  between  him  and  the 
person  driving.  Another  sledge,  pro- 
bably likewise  used  for  Carnival  pnr- 
poses,  is  No.  43,  in  the  form  of  St. 
George  and  the  Dragon,  tlie  seat  being 
formed  by  the  Dragon.  The  harness 
for  both  these  sledges  stands  close  by. 
No.  49  is  a  mechanical  Drojky  made 
in  1801  by  a  peasant  at  Nijni-'i'agilsk 
in  Siberia,  It  has  an  apparatus  behind, 
which  once  recorded  both  time  antl 
distance,  and  played  a  series  of  airs. 
No.  50  is  a  dimiiuitive  brougham  pre- 
sented by  a  merchant  of  Moscow  in 
1847  to  the  eldest  daughter  of  the 
Emperor  Alexander  II.* 

In  rooms  leading  out  of  Eoom  2  is 
kept  the  harni'ss  of  the  State  carriages 
(No.  1  is  the  harness  for  nine  horses 
of  the  Consort  of  Nicholas  I.,  and  No. 
2,  also  red  and  gold,  that  of  the  Con- 
sort of  Alexander  II.)  ;  and  in  separate 
rooms  beyond  are  the  State  liveries  for 
about  800  men,  and  the  saddles  and 
bridles  of  H.  I.  M.,  a  set  representing 
each  regiment,  used  according  to  the 
uniform  which  the  emperor  wears  at 
reviews,  &c.  In  the  furthest  harness- 
room  will  be  seen  the  lift  and  the 
turn-table  by  which  the  carriages  are 
raised  to  the  second  story  of  the  build- 
ing, and  moved  in  the  direction  of 
their  proper  place  in  the  museum. 
It  should  be  remembered  that  these 
magnificent  carriages  and  trappings 
are  used  at  each  c(jronation  at  ]Moscow, 
whither  they  have  to  be  carried  care- 
fully packed  up. 

Lastly,  the  staircase  beyond  lloom 
4  (by  which  the  visitor  \vill  some- 
times leave,  is  decorated  with  taix'strv 
of  which  only  61,  ''  The  School  <)f 
Athens,"  and  (j2,  arabesques,  are  from 
the  Gobelins  looms;  the  rest  are 
Kussian,  viz.  (60)  *'  Juno  in  her  Car," 
(63)  "America,"  and  (64)  "Asia." 

Within  the  spacious  court  of  the 
museum  are  the  Imperial  Stables,  hold- 
ing, in  winter,  more  than  300  Jiorses. 
The  new  stables  o])])osite.  Ijuilt  in 
1868,  contain  about  150  saddle-horses, 
which,  like  the  carriage-horses,  are  in 

*  For  description  of  other  curious  nnd  liis-  ' 
torical  carriages,  vide  "  Treasury."  Moscow.        i 


summer  dispersed  over  the  various  im- 
jH'rial  residences.  The  stables  may  be 
seen  on  apjdication  to  the  officer  in 
charge.  They  will  give  the  visitor  an 
idea  of  the  lavish  magnificence  of  the 
liussian  Court,  as  the  sum  exi)ended 
in  feeding  the  horses  alone  cannot  be 
far  short  of  10,000/.  per  annum. 


18.  Naval  Museum. — (Open  Tues- 
days, Thursdavs,  and  Saturdays  from 
10  A.M.  to  2  P.M.)  This  will  be  found 
in  the  Admiralty  Iniilding,  under  the 
archway,  over  wliicli  rises  the  con- 
s])icuous  gold  spire  surmounted  by  a 
sliij)  under  full  sail.  To  naval  men  in 
particular  the  museum  will  be  of  great 
interest,  as  it  contains  a  varied  colh'C- 
tion  of  naval  models,  including  also 
those  of  the  liussian  iron-clad  fleet. 
Besides  these,  then!  are  many  navftl 
curiosities,  mineralogical  and  ethno- 
graphical sj)ecimens,  many  portraits 
and  sea  views,  carvings  of  figure- 
heads, &e.  There  are  also  full-sized 
figures  of  Russian  sailors  of  the  time 
of  Peter  the  Great,  an«l  of  the  present 
period,  and  tlie  llag  of  a  British  war- 
])rig  taken  at  Archangel  in  1810.  The 
collecti<m,  replete  with  interest,  occu- 
pies two  large  halls. 


10.  Agricultural  Museum.  —  Open 
on  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fri- 
days from  12  to  4,  and'  on  Sundays 
from  1  to  3;  admittance,  20  cop. 
This  is  established  in  a  large  riding- 
sehool  close  to  the  Winter  I'alace. 
It  should  be  visited  if  the  traveller 
has  time.  Here  the  different  pro- 
cesses of  agriculture  employed  in  Rus- 
sia may  be  studied,  as  well  as  the 
jutkIucc  of  its  various  provinces,  very 
prettily  arranged.  It  is  under  the 
l>atronage  of  tJie  Department  of  Do- 
mains and  of  the  Agricultural  Society. 


20.  The  Smohif  Church  and  School. ~ 
A  long  ride  will  bring  the  traveller 
t<j  the    '*  Institution  des   Demoiselles 


Russia.  Boute  1. — Sf,  Petershurr/ :  NevsJci  Monastery, 


131 


Nobles,"  at  the  end  of  Voskresenski- 
street,  situated  on  a  gentle  elevation, 
round  which  the  Neva  bends  to  the 
west,  and  not  far  from  the  Taurida 
Palace.  This  structure,  originally  a 
convent,  is  a  vast  pile  of  building,  de- 
signed by  Count  Rastrelli  in  1748,  and 
finally  opened  in  1834.  The  church  is 
of  wliite  marble,  with  5  blue  domes 
si)angled  with  golden  stars;  and  the 
interior  is  an  exception  to  the  sur- 
charged style  of  every  other  in  St. 
Petf>rsburg  ;  its  walls  of  stainless  white 
being  unpolluted  by  flag,  banner,  or 
trophy  that  tells  of  strife  and  blood. 
A  high  and  beautifully  designed  iron 
grating,  of  which  the  rails,  or  rather 
pillars,  are  wound  round  with  wreaths 
of  vine-leaves  and  flowers  in  iron- 
work, surrounds  the  court-yard,  and 
above  it  wave  the  elegant  birch  and 
lime.  This  edifice  may  be  seen  from 
the  eastern  suburb,  from  the  extremity 
of  Voskresenski-street,  a  mile  and  a 
hnlf  in  length,  and  from  all  quarters 
of  the  city,  its  elevation  being  335  ft. 

(hi  either  side  of  the  ch.  is  the  Insti- 
tuti»m  des  Demoiselles  Nobles,  a  build- 
ing dedicated  to  the  education  of  young 
girls  of  noble  and  citizen  birth,  of 
whom  not  fewer  than  400  are  here 
Ijrought  up.  The  Empress  IMaria,  wife 
of  l*aul,  the  foundress  and  benefac- 
tress of  the  school,  has  a  simple  monu- 
ment in  the  ch.  dedicated  in  her 
honour  to  St.  Mary.  A  home  for 
widows  is  attached  to  this  establish- 
ment. 


21.  Monastery  of  St.  Alexander 
Ncvski. — This  is  one  of  the  most  cele- 
brated monasteries  in  Russia — a  Lavra, 
that  is,  the  seat  of  a  Metropolitan,  and 
inferior  only  to  the  Lavra  of  the 
Trinity  in  Moscow,  and  to  the  Lavra 
of  the  Cave  in  Kief;  other  monastic 
establishments  are  only  ^'' monastlrs." 
Its  proper  name  is  Alexander  Nevskaya 
Sviatotroitskaya  Lavra  (the  Alexander 
Nevsky's  Hoiy  Trinity  Lavra).  It 
stands,  as  the  traveller  will  have  no- 
ticed in  his  drive,  at  the  extreme  end 
of  the  Nevski  Prospekt,  where  it  occu- 
])ies  a  large  space,  enclosing  within  its 
walls  churches,  towers,  gardens,  and 


monks'  cells.  The  ch.  and  convent 
were  founded  by  Peter  the  Great  in 
honour  of  the  canonized  Grand  Duke 
Alexander,  who,  in  a  great  battle 
fought  on  this  spot,  defeated  the 
Swedes  and  knights  of  the  military 
orders,  a.d.  1241 ;  his  remains  were 
brought  here  Mitli  much  pomp  by 
Peter  from  Wladimir.  Tlie  ch.  and 
monastery  were  originally  built  of 
wood,  in  1712;  but  stone  was  substi- 
tuted some  years  after.  Pbter's  suc- 
cessors increased  the  possessions  and 
buildings  of  the  cloister,  and  Catlierine 
built  the  Cathedral,  one  of  the  largest 
chs.  in  the  capital.  For  the  decoration 
of  the  interior,  marble  was  brought 
from  Italy,  precious  stones  from  Siberia, 
and  pearls  from  Persia.  It  is  further 
adorned  with  some  good  copies  aft<3r 
(^uido,  Rubens,  and  Perugino ;  the 
altarpiece,  the  Annunciation,  is  by 
Raphael  Mengs. 

On  two  great  pillars  opposite  the 
altar  are  portraits  of  Peter  the  Great 
and  Catherine  II.,  larger  than  life. 
The  shrine  of  Alexander  Nevski  is  of 
massive  silver,  and,  with  the  orna- 
ments around  it,  weighs  about  3250  lbs. 
of  pure  metal ;  the  design  is  i)yramidal, 
15  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  a  cata- 
falque, and  angels  as  large  as  life, 
with  trumpets  and  silver  flowers;  also 
a  quantity  of  bassi-rilievi,  representing 
the  deeds  of  the  Saint.  The  keys  of 
Adriauople  are  suspended  near  the 
tomb. 

The  Nevski  cloister  has  profited  by 
the  presents  sent  from  Persia  when  the 
Russian  ambassador  Griboyedoff  w^as 
murdered  in  Teheran.  The  Persian 
gifts  consisted  of  a  long  train  of  rare 
animals,  Persian  wel)s,  gold  stutfs,  and 
pearls.  They  reached  St.  Petersburg 
in  the  winter.  The  pearls,  and  gold- 
stufts,  and  rich  sliawls  were  carried  in 
large  silver  and  gold  dishes  by  mag- 
nificently dressed  Persians.  The  Per- 
sian prince,  Khosra  Mirza.  drove  in  an 
imperial  state  equipage  with  6  horses ; 
the  elephants,  bearing  on  their  backs 
towers  filled  with  Indian  warriors, 
had  leather  boots  to  protect  them  from 
the  cold,  and  the  cagesof  the  tigers  anil 
lions  were  provided  witli  double  ski'is 
of  the  northern  polar  bear.  A  portirn  of 

H  3 


132 


Monie  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Churches. 


Sect.  I. 


the  pearls  wore  given  to  this  monas- 
tery, which  also  has  a  rich  collection  of 
mitres  set  in  jewels,  pontifical  robes  of 
gold  brocade,  and  souvenirs  of  indi- 
vidual metropolitans  and  princes; 
among  them  an  episcopal  staft'  turned 
by  Peter  the  Great,  and  presented  by 
him  to  the  first  metropolitan  of  St. 
Petersburg ;  anotlier  of  amber,  from 
Catherine  II. ;  and  a  number  of  other 
valuables  whicli,  found  elsewhere, 
singly,  would  be  admired  and  described, 
but  here,  in  the  mass  of  treasures,  are 
unnoticed.  The  crown  of  St.  Alexander, 
and  tlie  bed  on  which  Peter  died,  are 
among  the  most  interesting  objects. 
The  Library,  of  al)out  10,(300  volumes, 
in(le])endently  of  a  number  of  very 
valuable  manuscripts,  contains  many 
rare  specimens  of  the  antiquities  of 
Russia. 

The  small  cliapel  attaclied  to  this 
convent  contains  the  toml)s  of  several 
illustrious  llussian  families;  that  of 
tlio  Xary.shkins  bears  tlie  following 
inscription  : — '•  From  tlieir  race  came 
Peter  tiie  Great."  Here  are  also  the 
tombs  of  Suwaroff  (a  plain  marble 
tablet);  Rumiantsoff ;  the  cliancellor 
Bezborodko ;  Betskoi,  the  favourite 
minister  of  Catherine  II.;  Panin,  her 
minister  for  foreign  affairs,  &c. ;  and 
of  numerous  members  of  the  imperial 
family.  In  the  cemetery  attached  to 
the  building  many  of  tlie  great  Russian 
families  bury  their  dead,  and  large 
sums  are  paid  for  permission  to  repose 
in  this  holy  ground.  The  graves  are 
consecpiently  very  close  together,  and 
the  new  ones  generally  covered  with 
flowers,  a  pleasing  trait  of  feeling 
frequently  seen  on  the  Continent. 
The  anchor  at  the  foot  of  the  cross,  a 
favourite  emblem,  is  placed  above 
many  of  the  monuments.  There  are 
between  50]  and  GO  monks  here  who 
superintend  an  ecclesiastical  academy. 
The  service  is  well  performed  at  this 
monastery,  and,  being  a  fashionable 
church,  the  singing  is  good.  The 
Emperor  is  generally  present  at  a  mass 
celebrated  on  the  30th  August,  O.S. 


22.  Preolmijoml'u  (7/iw>v7«.— Thisch., 
the  "  Spass  Preobrajeuski  Sobor,"  be- 


longs to  one  of  the  oldest  regiments  of 
guards  founded  by  Peter  the  (ireat.and 
is  one  of  the  most  considerable  of  the 
city,  and  more  than  any  other  adorned, 
both  without  and  within,  with  trophies 
from  ctmquered  nations;  consecrated 
1754;  rebuilt  1827.  The  railing  that 
surrounds  the  churchyard  is  formed  of 
Turkish  and  French  cannon.  Around 
the  cannon  chains  of  ditierent  thick- 
ness, gracefully  twined,  are  hung  like 
garlands  between  the  columns ;  on  the 
sunnnit  of  each  is  a  Russian  double 
eagk^  of  iron,  with  exi>anded  wings. 
Within  the  ch.  is  adorned  with  fiags 
and  halberds;  the  pillars  look  like 
palm-trees,  of  which  every  leaf  is  a 
lance.  Here  travellers  are  also  shown  a 
l)roduction  of  Russian  inventive  tah^it, 
the  work  of  a  connnon  peasant.  It  is 
a  large  splendi<l  piece  of  clockwork, 
made  by  him  in  his  native  village, 
bought  for  1000/.  by  his  lord,  and 
presinted  to  the  ch.  Some  baldaquins 
— canopies  used  in  the  funerals  of  the 
deceased  Tsars — are  i)reserve<l  in  this 
ch.  with  the  veneration  with  which 
Russians  delight  to  hand  down  to  pos- 
terity every  relic  of  departed  royalty. 


23.  Chureh  of  the  Holy  Trlnify.— 
Near  the  Warsaw  rly.  stat.  Conse- 
crated in  183.5,  and  attached  to  the 
Semenolf  regiment  of  Guards.  Its 
cupola  is  of  a  dark  blue  colour,  be- 
spangled with  stars.  Among  the 
trophies  in  the  interior  is  a  l)oat  flag 
of  the  '  Tiger,'  wrecked  on  the  coast  of 
the  Crimea,  and  another  which  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  Ru.ssian  troops 
in  a  boat  engagement  at  (iande- 
Karleby,  during  the  allied  naval  ope- 
rations in  the  lialtic. 


24.  lioman  Catholir  Clutrrhrft. — The 
principal  ch.,  which  is  in  the  Nevski,  is 
a  most  graceful  building,  with  a  finely 
proportioned  dome  and  slender  Co- 
rinthian columns.  In  the  interior  is 
a  tablet  of  white  marble  edged  with 
black,  which  bears  the  nameof  Moreau, 
and  tells  of  the  brilliant  achievements 


Russia.  Boufe  1. — St.  Pefershurg :  British  Fadorij. 


133 


and  sad  fate  of  the  conqueror  of  Ilohen- 
linden. 

The  second  ch.,  within  the  building 
of  the  "  Page  School,"  opposite  the 
Bazaar,  is  of  some  interest,  having 
been  Ijuilt  by  Paul  when  he  became 
Grand  IMaster  of  the  Order  of  the 
Knights  of  IMalta.  It  is  in  the  style 
of  the  old  church(>s  of  the  Knights  of 
St.  John,  and  still  contains  the  chair 
on  which  the  Emperor  sat  as  Grand 
Master.  This  ch.  is  fashionably  at- 
tended, and  the  singing  is  particularly 
good. 

The  Duke  of  Leuchtenberg,  Consort 
of  the  Grand  Duchess  Marie  Nicola- 
evna,  lies  buried  there. 


25.  Ii}(s.fia  Compamj,  British  Far- 
torij,  and  Chnpd.—A  brief  sketch  of 
tluf  intercourse  between  England  and 
Russia  may  here  prove  of  interest.  The 
earliest  mention  in  history  of  any 
connection  between  the  two  countries 
is  about  the  year  1070,  when  Gyda, 
'the  daughter  of  Harold,  was  given  in 
marriage  l)y  the  King  of  Denmark  to 
W^adimir,  Grand  Duke  of  ]\Iuscovy. 
Embassies  bi'tween  Russia  and  the 
countries  of  the  Continent  were  first 
exchanged  in  the  loth  centy.,  and 
about  this  time  the  English  Court  ap- 
pears to  have  begiui  to  notice  Russia. 
Henry  Staftord,  Earl  of  Wiltshire,  and 
Baron  Fitzwalter  appeared  in  Russian 
dresses  at  a  fancy  ball  given  in  the 
Parliament  Hall  at  W\'stminster  a.d. 
1510. 

Tlu^  trade  with  Russia  had  long 
been  in  the  hands  of  Flemish  and 
Lithuanian  merchants,  when  our  more 
enterprising  merchants  begaii  to  devise 
means  of  getting  the  furs,  wax,  hemp, 
and  ilax  of  Muscovy  more  cheaply  and 
expeditiously  than  by  way  of  the 
llans(.atic  towns.  Adventurous  spirits 
even  contemplated  reaching  India 
through  the  Russian  dominions.  Se- 
bastian Cabot,  born  at  Bristol  in  1477, 
conceived  the  design  of  reaching  India 
and  China  by  sailing  northwards 
round  Norway,  and  by  his  exertions 
was  formed  ''The  Mystery,  Company, 
and  Fellowship  of  Mcrchaut  Adven- 


turers for  the  Discovery  of  Unknown 
Lands,  &c."     In  1553  three  ships  were 
fitted  out  by  this  company  under  the 
command   of  Sir   Hugh   Willoughby 
and  Richard  Chancellor.     Sir  Hugh 
with  two  of  the  vessels  entered  a  bay 
on  the  coast  of  Lapland,  where  he 
perished    miserably    with    his    com- 
panions— frozen   to   death.      Richard 
Chancellor  in  the  *  Edward  Bonaven- 
ture,'  having  been  separated  from  the 
other  ships  in  a  storm,  entered  the 
White  Sea    alone,   and  reached  the 
mouth  of  the  Dwina.     Having  ascer- 
tained that   the  country  which  they 
had  discovered  was  "  Russia  or  Mus- 
covie,"  he  declared  to  the  astonished 
fishermen  that  they  were  "  English- 
men sent  into  these  coasts  from  the 
most    excellent    King    Edward    VI., 
having   from   him    in  commandment 
certain  tilings  to  deliver  to  their  King, 
and    seeking    nothing    else    but    his 
amitie  and   friendshii),   and  traffique 
with  his  people,  Avhereby  they  doubted 
not   but    that   great  commoditie  and 
l)rofit  would  grow  to  the  subjects  of 
both  kingdoms."    The  fishermen,  hav- 
ing understood,  it  is  to  be  presumed 
by  signs,  the  object  of  the  expedition, 
''  heard  those  things  very  gladly,  and 
promised  their  aid  and  furtherance  to 
acquaint  their  King  out  of  hand  with 
so  honest  and  reasonable  a  request." 
John  the  Terrible  was  then  Tsar,  and 
in  the  zenith  of  his  power  and  glory 
as  conqueror  of  Kazan  and  Siberia. 
He  received  Chancellor,  and  the  two 
merchants.  Burton  and  Edwards,  who 
accomi)anied  him,  very  graciously,  and 
entertained  them  at  a  feast  of  great 
splendour.     In  compliance  with  Chan- 
cellor's request  that  the  establishment 
of  commercial  relations  might  be  per- 
mitted IjetW'Cen  England  and  Russia, 
a  letter  was  despatched  by  the  Tsar  to 
King  Edward  assuring  him  that  "  his 
shippes  and  vessels  may  come  as  often 
as   they  please;"   "and,"  wrote  the 
Tsar,  '•  send  me  one  of  your  Majesties 
coimcill   to  treat   with    us,   whereby 
your  countrey  merchants  male  with  all 
kind  of  wares,  and  wheare  they  will, 
make  their  market  in  our  dominions, 
and  there  to  have  their  free  market 
with    all  free  liberties  through  my 


134 


Route  1. — St.  Petersburg :  British  Factory.         Sect.  I. 


whole  doniiuions,  and  goo  at  tlioir 
pleasure,  witliout  any  lett,  damage,  or 
impediment,  according  and  by  this 
onr  lettre." 

This  letter  found  Queen  Mary  on 
tlie  throne :  and  on  tlie  2(3tli  Feb. 
1555,  a  new  Company  was  formed  in 
London  by  special  charter  of  Pliilip 
and  Mary,  conveying  the  exclusive 
privilege  of  trading  with  Russia. 

Chancellor  returned  to  IMoscow  in 
1555  with  a  reply  from  Philip  and 
Mary.  Two  merchants,  George  Kill- 
ingwortli  and  Kichard  Say,  went  witli 
him,  and  remained  tlicre  as  commer- 
cial agents.  TJie  Tsar  then  gave  the 
Company  a  charter  to  trade  througli- 
out  his  dominions  witliout  paying  any 
taxes  :  on  tlie  strength  of  which  the 
Bay  of  St.  Nicholas,  where  the  English 
ships  had  first  anchored,  soon  became 
an  important  i»lace  of  trade.  In  15r)(J 
Chancellor  left  Russia  with  4  heavily- 
laden  shijis  and  an  ambassador  from 
John  the  Terrible,  Nepeya  by  name, 
with  a  suite  of  16  persons.  A  storm 
scattered  the  ships,  and  only  one 
reached  London  in  safety.  The  '  VA- 
ward  Bona  venture'  parted  from  her 
anchors  on  the  coast  of  Aberdeenshire 
and  was  wrecked,  by  which  Richard 
Chancellor  with  his  son  and  7  Russians 
were  drowned.  The  ambassador,  saved 
almost  by  a  miracle,  proceeded  to 
Edinburgh  and  thence  to  Loudon, 
where  he  was  received  with  great 
pomp  in  1557.  Voyages  and  embassies 
now  became  frequent. 

At  first  the  tradi'  was  mo.st  prosper- 
ous, but  the  English  merchants  began 
to  quarrel  amongst  themselves,  and 
had  many  complaints  against  the 
Tsar's  officers.  In  15G7  Queen  Eliza- 
beth granted  a  new  charter  to  the  Com- 
pany, and  stipulated  with  the  Tsar  that 
none  but  English  ships  should  be  em- 
ployed in  the  trade.  The  Comi)any  had 
a  right  to  seize  any  foreigner  attem})t- 
ing  to  reach  India,  Persia,  or  China  by 
way  of  Russia,  and  to  confiscate  his 
goods.  The  merchants  obtained  i)ermis- 
sion  to  smelt  dow'n  foreign  dollars  and 
to  stamp  them  anew  as  current  coin. 
Under  such  advantages  they  seized  all 
the  most  important  commercial  centres 
in  Russia.     Thcv  had   an  agencv  at 


Moscow,  a  factory  at  Holmogory  (at 
the  mouth  of  the  Dwina),  and  depots 
at  Novgorod,  Pskof,  Jaroslaf,  Kazan, 
Astrakhan,  Kostroma,  &c.,  where  they 
sold  their  goods  at  '200  and  JJOO  per 
cent.  ])rf>fit.  The  people  complained 
of  their  proceedings,  and  the  Tsar  ex- 
])ressed  his  displeasure  to  Mr.  Thomas 
Randolph,  ambassador  in  1501).  The 
iMiglish,  on  the  other  liand,  retorted 
that  they  wore  fast  being  ruined  by 
the  execution  of  so  many  of  their 
debtors.  They  had  certainly  much  to 
contend  with — civil  commotions,  pesti- 
lence, and  fiimine  :  their  iiouse  at  Mos- 
cow was  destroyed  by  the  Tartars  in 
1571,  when  about  15  English  men  and 
women  perished  in  the  tiames. 

John  the  'J'errible  made  an  over- 
ture for  the  hand  of  Queen  Eliza- 
beth, and  wished  to  enter  intf)  a 
treaty  to  the  efteet  that  "she  would 
be  kind  to  his  friends,  l>ut  hostile 
to  his  enemies,  and  he  would  be  the 
same  to  hers."  The  Queen  was  to 
allow  jx^rsons  skilled  in  shipbuilding 
and  navigators  to  come  to  Russia,  to 
permit  artillery  and  other  warlike 
stores  to  be  sent  froui  England;  and  '*  it 
was  to  be  ratified  by  oath  between  her 
and  himself  that  either  sovereign 
might  take  refuge  in  the  country  of 
the  other  in  case  di.sturbances  in  their 
own  realm  should  compel  them  to  do 
so."  Queen  Elizabeth  merely  thanked 
John  the  Terrible  for  this  manifesta- 
tion of  good-will,  and  proposed  in  1581 
that  lie  should  many  Lady  Mary 
Hastings,  daughter  of  the  Earl  of 
liuiitingdou.  The  Tsar's  envoy  re- 
ported that  the  lady  in  question  wa.s 
'60  years  old,  '•  tall,  well-built,  though 
thin,"  that  she  had  '•  a  clear  com- 
plexion, grey  eyes,  red  hair,  a  straight 
nose,  and  long  fingers."  The  lady 
was  at  first  not  averse  to  the  marriage, 
but  she  soon  asked  the  Queen  to  s}»aro 
her ;  ''  for  being,"  Hume  says,  *■*  in- 
lV)rmed  of  the  barbarous  manner  of 
the  country,  she  wisely  declined  i)ur- 
chasing  an  empire  at  the  exjieiise  of 
her  ease  and  safety."  In  return  for 
the  hand  f)f  Lady  INIary  the  Tsar 
liad  jiromised  most  important  privi- 
leges to  the  Coini>any,  but  the  mer- 
chants were  soon  after  informed  liy 


Kussia. 


Boute  1. — St.  Petershurrj  :  British  Factory. 


135 


the  boyars  that  "  their  English  Tsar 
was  dead." 

The  Tsar  Boris  Godunoff  (a.d.  1598), 
although  favourable  to  the  English 
trade,  refused  to  renew  tho.se  exclusive 
jirivileges  which  it  had  enjoyed,  and 
other  nations  were  allowed  to  partici- 
])ate  in  the  commerce  of  the  country. 
In  1G4(>  the  native  merchants  coin- 
])lainedthat  the  P^nglish ''  were  ruining 
tliein  by  their  exactions,"  and  the  fol- 
lowing year  the  Tsar  took  advantage  of 
the  civil  wars  in  England,  and,  con- 
demning the  people  *'wlio  had  put 
their  Charles  to  death,"  closed  all  the 
ix)rts  against  them  with  the  exception  of 
Archangel.  Cromwell's  envoy  was  not 
admitted  by  the  Tsar,  who  subse- 
quently corresponded  with  Charles  II. 
when  the  latter  was  hi  exile.  At  the 
Restoration  the  Earl  of  Carlisle  was 
sent  to  ask  for  a  renewal  of  the  ancient 
privileges  of  the  Russia  Company,  but 
Jiis  mission  was  unsuccessful. 

Another  class  of  Englishmen  began 
to  visit  Russia  about  this  period.  The.se 
were  officers,  mostly  Scottish,  who  were 
then  seeking  their  fortunes  in  almost 
every  country  in  Euroi)e.  The  most  dis- 
tinguished of  these  was  Patrick  Gor- 
don, who,  under  Colonel  Crawfurd, 
assisted  in  forming  the  first  regu- 
lar regiment  that  Russia  possessed. 
Alx)ut  40  Engli.sh  officers  were  em- 
ployed in  drilling  the  soldiers  who 
saved  Peter  the  Great  by  discomfit- 
ing the  unruly  Streltsi.  The  next 
great  event  in  the  intercourse  between 
Russia  and  England  was  the  visit 
of  Peter  the  Great  to  London,  for  an 
account  of  which  the  traveller  is  re- 
ferred to  History.  We  may  mention 
here,  as  an  interesting  fact  in  connec- 
tion with  Peter  the  Great's  visit,  that 
his  boon  companion  in  London,  Lord 
Peregrine,  Marquis  of  Carmarthen, 
obtained  by  ukaz  dated  lOtli  April, 
1G98.  the  exclusive  right  of  supplying 
Russia  with  tobacco.  In  the  reign  of 
Catherine  11.  English  naval  officers 
came  over  in  considerable  numbers  to 
enter  the  Russian  navy.  Many  of 
their  descendants  are  at  present  in  the 
service  of  the  Russian  crown.  In  the 
r.'ign  of  the  Em]ieror  Paul  an  em- 
b.irgo  was  laid  on  British  shipping  in 


the  expectation  of  a  war  with  England, 
which  happily  never  arose  until  in 
1854  it  became  necessary  to  maintain 
by  arms  the  integrity  of  the  dominions 
of  the  Sultan. 

The   British   factory,  in  the  mean 
while,    originated    at    Archangel    in 
171G,  when  the  English  merchants  at 
that  place  embodied  themselves  into  a 
company,  and  fixed  a  rate  on  goods 
imported   and   exported   and   a   jiort- 
charge  on  British  ships.     They  at  the 
same  time  applied  for  a  minister  of  the 
Church.  Until  the  trade  was  removed 
to  St.  Petersburg  by  Peter  the  Great 
it  was  the  practice  of  the  Factory  to 
reside  at  Archangel  during  the  sum- 
mer and  at  Moscow  in  winter,  having 
a  chapel  at  both   places  and  taking 
their  minister  with  them.  Tlie  Factory 
removed   to   St.   Petersburg  in  172:j. 
The  i)rincii)al  objects  which  from  the 
first    engaged   the    attention    of    the 
Factory    were    the    maintenance    of 
the  Church    establishment    and  the 
regulation  of  charges  on  British  shijjs 
and  goods.  In  1758  the  Factory  bought 
with    their   own    funds,    assisted   by 
voluntary  contributions,  their  present 
church  premises  on  the  English  Quay. 
A  treaty  of  commerce,  signed  between 
Great  liritaiii   and   Russia   in    17GG, 
having  expired  in   1787,  G  members 
of  the  Factory  left  the  corporation  and 
traded  separately  as  ''  Foreign  Guests," 
a   denomination    established    by   the 
Russian  Municipal  Code  of  1785.     The 
Factory  continued  to  exist  neverthe- 
less, but  only  as  a  Committee  for  the 
Management  of  Church  Afl;airs,  and, 
notwithstanding  some  tedious  disputes 
with  the  Russia  Company,  succeeded 
in  establishing  their  right  to  elect  a 
chaplain  and  to  levy  port-charges— a 
right    which    the    Russia    Company 
asserted  only  belonged  to  themselves. 
The  factory  charges  fall  very  heavily 
ui)on  British  ships,  which  have  thus 
been  forced  to  support  a  church  for  the 
almost  exclusive  use  of  British  resi- 
dents at  St.  Petersburg. 

The  continuance  of  the  charge  of 
"  church  money  "'  is  an  abuse  of  ancient 
custom  much  complained  of,  particu- 
larly since  the  charge  has  not  the 
direct  siineticn  either  of  the  Russian 


13G 


Boide  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Monuments. 


Sect.  I. 


or  British  Covrrnniciit.  Moreover, 
the  accumulations  of  tlu^  "  Cominittco 
of  the  Chapel  of  the  British  Factory  " 
are  not  far  short  of  35,000/.,  invested 
in  Russian  funds — a  sum  whicli,  with 
j)roper  ninna.ujenient,  and,  if  necessary, 
sui)pleinentcd  Ijy  pew  rents,  would  be 
amply  sulHoicnt  for  tlie  maintenance 
of  the  cliurch  esinblislnnent  and  the 
relief  of  tlie  Britisli  poor.  As  far  us 
Great  Britain  is  concerned,  both  the 
Itussia  Company  and  the  British  Fac- 
tory in  Russia  have  been  abolished 
by  Act  of  Parliament.  On  the  strength 
of  an  IJkaz  of  1S()7,  the  greater  part  of 
the  meml)ers  of  the  Factory  liecnme 
"  Foreign  Guests,"  and  continued  to 
trade  as  such  until  recent  enliglitcned 
enactments  remov«'d  all  tlie  dis!i])iliti(s 
under  which  foreign  merchants  had 
laboured,  and  gave  them  in  respect  to 
tlicir  commerce  the  ju-ivileges  of 
natural-born  subjects  of  II.  I.  JM. 

The  British  Ambassadv)r  was  ordered 
to  leave  St.  Petersburg  27th  Oct.  1S07, 
and  during  the  continental  war,  which 
lasted  until  1812,  the  British  mer- 
cliants  were  not  permitted  to  trade. 
In  1813  tlic  Russia  Comi)any  agreed 
to  contribute  40007.  towards  the  repairs 
of  the  chapel,  and  in  1814  a  grant  of 
5000?.  was  procured  from  Parliament 
for  tlie  same  object.  The  chapel,  re- 
built in  1815,  is  oneof  the  handsomest 
l)laces  of  English  Protestant  worship 
on  the  Continent.  The  copy  of  Ru- 
bens's  *  Descent  from  the  Cross  *  over 
the  altar  was  presented  in  1815  by 
Sir  James  Riddell,  Bart.  The  pews 
are  free,  and  will  contain  a  congrega- 
tion of  about  500. 

The  total  number  of  British  resi- 
dents at  St.  Petersburg  and  its  vicinity 
is  estimated  at  nearly  3000.  The  ser- 
vices at  the  chapel,  on  Sundays,  com- 
mence at  the  hours  of  11  and  4.  The 
cliaplain  resides  on  the  premises, 
where  an  extensive  circulating  library 
has  also  been  established. 

The  American  or  Metliodist  Chapel, 
supported  by  voluntary  contributions, 
is  situated  near  tiic  Post-office. 


2G.   M0NU3IENTS. 

1 .  The  Eqfifffrlan  Statue  of  Peter  the 
Great  ranks  tirst  among  the  monuments 
of  St.  l'etcrs])urg.  It  stands  oj)posito 
tlie  Isaac  Cathedral,  in  the  Admiralty 
Square.  It  was  cast  by  Falconet,  a 
Frenchman,  but  the  head  was  modelled 
by  Marie  Callot.  The  Emperor  is 
admirably  rc})rosented  reining  in  his 
horse  on  the  brink  of  a  rock,  on  both 
sides  of  which,  as  well  as  in  front, 
steep  precipices  threaten  immediate 
destruction.  His  face  is  turned  to- 
wards the  Neva,  his  outstretched 
hand  pointing  to  the  residt  of  his 
thought  and  will ;  while  a  serpent, 
emblematical  of  the  difficulties  which 
Peter  encountered,  is  trodden  under 
foot  by  the  spirited  charger.  The 
whole  is  wonderfully  balanced  on  the 
hinder  legs  and  the  tail  of  the  horse, 
int5  which  a  weight  of  10,000  lbs.  has 
been  thrown. 

The  hugh  block  of  granite  which 
forms  the  i)edestil,  and  weighs  1500 
tons,  was  brought  from  Lakhta,  a 
Finnish  village,  4  m.  from  St.  I'eters- 
burg,  and  may  have  been  torn  by  the 
Deluge  from  the  Swedish  mountains  ; 
it  was  originally  45  ft  long,  30  ft. 
high,  and  25  ft.  in  width ;  but  in 
cutting  it  the  mass  broke  in  two  pieces, 
which  were  subsequently  joined.  It 
is  now  only  14  ft.  high,  20  ft.  broad, 
and  43  ft.  long;  the  statue  is  17i  ft. 
in  height.  On  the  two  long  sides  are 
chiselled  the  following  inscriptions  in 
Russian  and  Latin  :  "  Petru  Pervomu, 
— Ekaterina  Vtoraya."  "  Petro  Prime, 
Catharina  Secunda."    mdcclxxxu. 

2.  TJie  Alexander  Column. — In  the 
open  space  between  the  Etat  Major 
and  the  Winter  Palace  stands  the 
greatest  monolith  of  modern  times, 
the  column  erected,  1832,  to  the 
memory  of  the  Emperor  Alexander  I. : 
— a  single  shaft  of  red  granite,  which, 
exclusive  of  pedestal  and  capital,  is 
84  ft.  in  height.  This  beautiful  monu- 
ment is  the  work  of  M.  Mcmtferrand, 
the  architect  of  the  Isaac  Church. 
The  shaft  originally  measured  102  ft., 
but  it  was  subsequently  shortened  to 


Eussia. 


Houte  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  Monuments. 


137 


its  present  dimensions  from  a  fear  that 
its  diameter  (14  ft.)  was  insufficient 
for  so  great  a  length.    The  base  and 
l^cdcstal   are    also   composed   of  one 
enormous  block  of  the  same  red  granite, 
of  the  height  of  about  25  ft.,  and  of 
nearly  the  same  length  and  Ijreadth; 
the  capital  measures  Itj  ft.,  the  statue 
of  the  angel  on  the  summit  14  ft.,  and 
the  cross   7   ft.,   in  all  154  ft.  0  in. 
Turkish  caniuni  were   smelted  down 
for  the  cai)ital  and  the  ornaments  on 
the   pedestal.     As  the   whole  of  St. 
I'etersburg   is  built  on  a  morass,  it 
was  thought   necessary  to   drive  no 
fewer  than  G  successive  rows  of  piles, 
in   order  to   sustain    so    immense  a 
weight  as  this  standing  upon  so  con- 
finetl  a  base ;  the  shaft  of  the  column 
alone  is  computed  to  weigh  nearly  400 
tons,  and  the  massive  pedestal  must 
materially  increase    the    tremendous 
jiressure.    The  statue  was  raised  in  its 
rough  state,  and  polished  after  it  was 
lirmly  fixed  on  its  i>resent  elevation. 
On   the    pedestal  —  which,    like  the 
capital,  is  ornamented  with  bronze — 
is  the  following  short  and  well-chosen 
inscription  :  —  "  To     Alexander    the 
First,    Grateful    Russia."      The    eye 
rests  with  pleasure  on  this  polished 
monument :  and  in  any  other  city  its 
enormous  size  would  make  a  greater 
impression.     The  inclemency  of  the 
climate  has  considerably  injured  the 
monolith.      The  frost  has  produced 
several  lissures,  which  have  been  care- 
fully cemented.     The  polished  surface 
of  the  granite  exhibits  several  patches. 

3.  Rumiantsof  Ohelisl:  —  On  the 
Vassili  Ostrotf/  near  the  Academy  of 
Arts,  in  the  middle  of  a  new  square. 
It  was  originally  erected,  in  17U0, 
on  the  "  Champ  de  Mars,"  in  honour 
of  Field-Marshal  RumiantsofF  Za- 
dunaiski.  It  was  removed  to  its 
l)resent  site  in  1821,  and  consists 
of  an  obelisk  of  Idack  marble  on  a 
pedestal  of  a  reddish  marble,  orna- 
mented with  festoons  and  bas-reliefs. 
It  is  surmounted  by  the  eagle  of 
Russia,  with  extended  wings,  resting 
on  a  globe,  which,  together  with  the 
eagle,  is  gilt.  The  total  height  of  the 
monument  is  70  ft.  The  pedestal  bears 


the  laconic  inscription,  "  To  the  vic- 
tories of  Rumiantsoft"." 

4.  Smcaroff  Monument,  near  the 
Marble  Palace  and  facing  the  Trinity 
Bridge. — This  is  a  Ijronze  statue,  rc- 
lirescnting  Prince  Suwarolf  on  foot, 
dressed  as  a  Roman,  wiehling  a  sword 
in  the  right  hand  and  holding  a  shield 
in  the  left,  in  defence,  over  the  crowns 
of  the  Pope,  of  Naples,  and  of  Sar- 
dinia. Erected  1801.  The  house  to 
the  rt.  of  the  statue  is  occu^ned  by  the 
British  Embassy. 

5.  Nicholas  Monument.  —  Between 
the  Leuchtenberg  Palace  and  St. 
Isaac's.  An  equestrian  .statue,  repre- 
senting the  Emperor  Nicholas  in  the 
uniforin  of  the  Horse  Guards.  The 
huge  pedestal  is  formed  of  granite  of 
various  colours.  The  bas-reliefs  re- 
present the  principal  episodes  in  the 
life  of  the  sovereign,  which,  together 
with  the  emblematical  figures  at  the 
four  corners,  will  easily  be  rc^coguised 
by  those  who  have  studied  the  history 
of  the  reign  of  Nicholas  I.  The  4  em- 
blematical figures  have  been  cast  after 
portraits  of  tiie  consort  of  Nicholas  and 
of  his  3  daughters. 

G.  Equestrian  Statue  of  Peter  the 
Great. — Erected,  as  already  mentioned, 
by  the  Emperor  Paul,  with  the  in- 
scription in  letters  of  gold,  "The 
grandson  to  the  grandfather,  1800." 
The  i)edestal  is  of  marble,  and  Peter 
the  Great  is  represented  on  it  riding 
a  charger,  and  dressed  as  a  Roman 
general,  with  a  wreath  of  laurel  round 
his  head,  and  a  baton  in  his  right 
hand.  It  was  cast  under  the  reign  of 
the  Empress  Elizabeth  (while  Paul 
was  yet  heir-apparent),  by  Martelli, 
an  Italian  artist.  The  reliefs  on  either 
side  of  the  ix'destal  represent  the 
battle  of  Poltava,  and  the  taking  of 
Schliisselburg. 

7.  Monuuifnt  to  Field- Ma  rah  ah  Par- 
clayde  Tolhj  andKoutousof.—Oijpo&ita 
the  Kazan  Cathedral.  These  were 
erected  in  183G.  Barclay  de  Tolly 
beat  Yandammc  at  Culm,  contributed 
to  the  victory  at  Leips'c,  and  to  the 


138 


Boiite  1. — St.  Pefershurg  :  Monuments. 


Sect.  I. 


capitulation  of  Paris  ;  while  Koutou- 
soff  was  considered  the  saviour  of  liis 
country  in  1812.  Both  statues  were 
modelled  by  a  Russian  sculptor,  Boris 
Orlofsky. 

8.  Monument  to  Sir  James  Wijlie, 
Barf.  —  Erected  1859,  in  the  inner 
court  of  the  Imperial  Academy  of 
Medicine,  in  reco<^nition  of  the  services 
which  that  distinguished  Scotclnnan 
rendered  to  Russia  as  President  of  the 
Academy  under  the  reiijjns  of  the 
Emperors  Alexander  I.  ami  Nicholas. 
Tlie  baronet  is  seated,  in  full  uniform, 
holding  in  his  hand  the  reformed 
statutes  of  the  Academy.  The  square 
l)edestal  is  of  grey  marble,  ornamented 
at  the  4  corners  witli  cariatides  of 
great  size.  On  tliree  sides  of  the 
l)edestal  are  bas-reliefs  representing 
various  episodes  in  the  life  of  the 
doctor,  together  with  liis  coat  of  arms 
and  those  of  the  Academy. 

Respecting  tlie  career  of  Sir  James 
Wylie,  Dr.  Lyall  says  in  his  '  Travels 
in  Russia,'  "  Sir  James  AV\ylie,  who  is 
chief  of  the  military  divisitm,  is  one 
of  the  most  notorious  and  most  pow- 
erful  individuals    in  Russia 

Tlirougli  the  interest  of  the  late  Dr. 
Rogerson  he  wasa])pointed  c>perator  at 
the  court,  and  I  believe  he  retained 
this  situation  wliilst  he  lived  in  tlie 
family  of  Count  HtroganofT.  A  new 
and  imj)ortant  epoch  in  liis  life  ap- 
l)roached,  and  tlie  whim  of  the 
Emperor  Paul  led  to  his  rise  in  life. 
This  monarcli  had  raised  one  of  his 
lowest  attendants  to  the  rank  of  count, 
and  had  be>towed  u])on  him  an  ami)l(» 
fortune  in  money  and  i)ntperty.  Count 
Kutrdsof,  for  this  was  the  said  count's 
name,  was  seized  with  a  violent  in- 
flammation of  the  fore  part  of  the  neck 
that  terminated  in  a  large  abscess,  by 
which  his  excellency  endured  great 
pain  and  extreme  dilficulty  of  resj)ira- 
tion.  Indeed  he  was  threatened  with 
suifocation.  Tlie  patient  was  attended 
by  a  number  of  the  iirftit  medical  men 
at  court,  who  never  thought  of  the 
only  means  of  relief,  the  opening  of 
the  abscess.  In  the  extremity  of  the 
disease  some  friends  advised  the  roniit 
to  send   for  Dr.  AVylie  in  the  midlle 


of  the  night.  On  his  arrival  this 
gentleman  opened  the  tumour,  and  an 
immense  quantity  of  matter  was  eva- 
cuated. In  an  instant  Count  Kutaisof 
was  restoretl  to  comparative  health. 
On  the  following  morning  Paul,  as 
usual,  sent  to  inquire  respecting  the 
count's  state,  and  was  astonished  at 
the  above  relation.  Paul  then  sent 
for  Dr.  AVylie,  and  aj^pointed  him  to 
attend  the  court  as  physician.  After 
Count  Kutrdsof's  recovery,  and  Sir 
James  Wylie's  advancement,  it  was 
jocularly  reported  that  '  Dr.  Wylie 
had  made  liis  fortune  by  cutting 
Count  Kntriisofs  throat.'  ....  After 
I'aul's  death,  and  Alexander's  ascent 
to  the  throne.  Sir  James  Wylie  still 
preserved  his  place,  and  has  success- 
ively been  appointed  his  majesty's 
body  surgeon  and  i)hysiciaii,  chief  of 
the  medical  military  department, 
president  of  the  INIedico-Chirurgical 
Academy,  &o.,  and  has  had  numerous 
Russian  and  foreign  orders  bestowed 
ui)on  him.  Besides,  he  has  been 
chosen  a  member  of  almost  all  the 
learned  societies  in  Russia,  and  also 
of  a  few  in  Great  Britain  and  upon 
the  Continent.  In  addition  to  all 
these  distinctions,  after  sharing  the 
dangers  and  the  honours  of  the  cam- 
paign of  lSl'2-18,  by  i)articular  request 
of  the  Emperor  Alexander,  he  was 
knighted  by  the  Prince  Regent  on 
botird  one  of  his  majesty's  .sliijis  at 
Portsmouth,  IMatofs  sword  being 
used  on  the  occasion.  He  was  also 
made  a  baronet  of  Creat  Britain."  It 
was  Sir  James  Wylie  that  amputated 
■Moreau's  leg  after  the  battle  of  Leip- 
sic. 


27.  Markets  and  PrnciiASEs. 

The  principal  market  at  St.  Peters- 
burg is  called  the  Gostinnoi-Dvor.  It 
is  situated  in  the  Nevski  Perspective, 
and  was  erected  between  1755  and 
178.>. 

There  is  in  most  Russian  cities  of 
imjH)rtance,  and  generally  in  a  central 
j>osition,  a  Gostinnoi  Dror,  where  all 
tlie  more  important  articles  of  com- 
merce  are   collected    for    sale.     It   is 


Eussia. 


Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Markets. 


139 


usually  a  large  building,  consisting  of 
a  ground  floor  and  an  upper  floor. 
The  upper  floor  is  chiefly  reserved  for 
wholesale  dealings:  the  ground-floor 
consists  of  a  multitude  of  shops  in 
which  the  various  descriptions  of  mer- 
chandise are  sold  by  retail.  The 
dwellings  of  the  merchants  are  away 
from  these  markets ;  and.  when  the 
hours  of  business  are  over,  each  trades- 
man locks  up  his  own  shop  or  stall,  and 
commits  the  whole  building  for  the 
night  to  the  guardianship  of  the  watch- 
men and  their  dogs. 

The  iiOi>tinnoi  Dror  of  St.  Peters- 
burg is  a  colossal  building,  one  side 
being  in  the  Xevski  Prospekt,  and 
another  in  the  Bolshai'a  Sadovaia,  or 
Great  Garden-street,  through  which, 
and  some  f)f  the  adjoining  streets, 
extend  a  number  of  shops  and  ware- 
houses, giving  to  that  part  of  the  town 
the  appearance  of  a  perpetual  fair. 
The  better  descrii>tion  of  Russian 
goods  will  be  f(mnd  in  the  Gostinnol 
JJvor  ;  tlii>se  of  an  inferior  kind  in  the 
adjoining  markets,  the  Apraxin  Rinok 
ami  the  Stchukin  Dvor,  which  lie  a 
little  farther  on  in  the  Bolshaia  Sa- 
dovaia. Following  the  last-named 
street,  which  is  bordered  throughout 
its  whole  length  by  shops,  the  stranger 
will  arrive  at  an  open  place,  the 
Sennaia  Ploschad,  or  hay-market,  the 
])rincij)alprovision-marketofSt.l*eters- 
burgh,  which  is  well  worth  seeing  in 
winter  on  account  of  the  odd  ai)pear- 
ance  of  the  frozen  animals  and  birds 
oftered  for  sale. 

The  lanes  and  alleys  that  intersect 
these  markets  are  overrun  througliont 
the  day  by  a  crowd  of  purchasers.  In 
a  city  containing  half  a  million  of  inha- 
bitants there  must  at  all  times  be  a 
great  and  urgent  demand  for  a  vast 
variety  of  articles  ;  but  there  are  many 
reasons  why  this  should  be  more  the 
case  in  St.  I'etersburg  than  in  any 
other  capital.  In  the  flrst  place,  there 
is  no  other  European  capital  where  the 
great  bulk  of  the  inhabitants,  owing 
to  the  system  of  Customs'  protection,  if 
not  prohibition,  that  prevails,  make 
use  of  goods  of  such  inferior  quality, 
«»r  where,  consequently,  they  have 
such  frequent  occasion  to  Iniy  new- 


articles,  or  to  have  the  old  ones  re- 
paired. Then  there  is  no  other  capital 
where  the  people  are  so  capricious  and 
so  fond  of  change.  The  wealthy  Rus- 
sians are  here  one  day  and  gone  the 
next ;  now  travelling  for  the  benefit 
of  their  health,  now  repairing  to  the 
country  to  re-establish  their  rinances 
by  a  temporary  retirement,  and  then 
reappearing  on  the  banks  of  the  Neva, 
to  put  their  revenues  (much  dimi- 
nished Ijy  the  Emancipation)  into  cir- 
culation. This  constant  fluctuation 
leads  daily  to  tlie  dissolution  and  to  the 
formation  of  a  number  of  establish- 
ments, and  makes  it  necessary  that 
there  should  be  at  all  times  a  greater 
stock  of  all  things  required  for  the 
outfit  of  a  family  than  would  be 
requisite  in  a  town  of  equal  extent, 
but  with  a  more  settled  i)oi^ulation. 

A  Russian  seldom  buys  anything  till 
just  when  he  wants  to  use  it,  and,  as  he 
cannot  then  wait,  he  must  have  it  ready 
to  his  hand.  Articles,  which  in  other 
countries  are  generally  ordered  before- 
hand from  a  tradesman,  are  here 
bought  ready  for  immediate  use. 

The  traveller  will  resort  to  these 
markets,  partly  to  observe,  as  he 
lounges  along  the  arcades,  the  cha- 
racteristic manners  of  the  dealers,  but 
l)rincipally  with  the  intention  of  buy- 
ing some  few  articles  as  presents  for 
distribution  at  home.  His  first  object 
is  commendable,  but  there  is  very  little 
on  which  he  can  lay  out  his  money 
with  advantage  and  satisfaction  in 
the  markets  here  described.  The  only 
articles  really  national  and  peculiar 
to  be  found  there  are  the  embroidered 
slippers,  cushions,  and  sashes  of  Torjok. 
These  should  be  purchased  at  No.  GO, 
in  tiie  centre  of  the  Gostinnoi  Dvor, 
facing  the  Sadovava  or  Garden-street. 
German  is  spoken,  and  the  prices  are 
fixed.  In  other  shops  a  system  of 
bargaining  is  pursued  which  always 
leaves  the  purchaser  in  doubt  whether 
he  has  really  paid  the  minimum  value. 
Gold  brocades  are  sold  in  a  row  of 
shops  called  the  Perinny  Riad.  They 
are  much  used  in  England  for  furni- 
ture. There  are  several  old  curiosity 
and  picture  shops  within  the  Apraxin 
Dvor,   where  old    china    and   many 


140 


Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Kospitah. 


Sect.  I. 


articles  of  virtu  may  be  picked  up 
by  tlio.se  who  know  the  language  and 
can  barijjain.  Stolen  goods  (if  every 
description  abound  in  the  latter  market. 
Both  the  Apraxin  and  the  Stciiukin 
markets  were  Inirned  down  in  18G'2. 
They  have  since  been  liandsomely  re- 
built. For  i)urc bases  of  jewellery  the 
tourist  is  reconnnended  to  the  '•  Eng- 
lisli  Magazine,"  where  by  for  the  best 
selection  of  goods  in  every  depart- 
ment will  be  found.  Tlie  prices  are 
perhaps  a  little  higlier  than  in  otlier 
sliops,  but  the  superiority  of  the 
articles  and  thc^  advantage  of  speak- 
hig  English  afford  full  compensation. 
Schnecgas,  jeweller,  in  Great  jNIorskoy 
Street,  also  keeps  a  large  stock  of 
mahicliite  and  lapis-lazuli  ornaments 
at  moderate  i)rices. 

Travellers  should  visit  Sazikofs  shop 
in  theNevsky,  fomous  for  silver  goods. 
Many  pretty  little  articles  may  be  pur- 
chased there  for  keepsakes. 

Circassian  Ix.'lte  and  ornaments,  in 
steel  and  silver,  arc  much  in  fashion, 
as  well  as  Caucasian  hoods,  of  bright- 
coloured  clotli  and  handsomely  braided. 
These  are  sold  in  two  shops  in  tlie  Per- 
spective, on  i\\(\  left-hand  side,  a  little 
beyond  the  Kazan  Cathedral.  The 
best  shop  is  Hazarof's.  Views  of  St. 
Petersburg  may  be  obtained  at  Daz- 
ziaro's,  Beggrow's,  and  at  the  "  Palette 
do  Raphael." 


28.  Hospitals  and  Medical  Advice. 

The  capital  is  well  provided  with 
hospitals  endowed  by  the  State  and 
supported  by  contributions.  Small 
monthly  ])ayments  are  exacted,  but 
there  is  a  certsiin  number  of  free  beds 
in  each  hospital,  to  which  the  i)oor 
have  access.    The  principal  hospits^ls 

l!  Obukhoff,  founded  1782.  This 
is  a  building  of  2  stories,  with  a  front- 
age of  GOO  ft.,  and  stands  in  very  spa- 
cious grounds  of  its  own.  The  numljer 
of  beds  is  450,  but  there  is  a  special 
liosjutal  in  connection  with  it,  for  i)ri- 
soners,  with  200  beds.  Fifteen  medi- 
cal men  are  attached  to  it. 


2.  Kalinkin,  estjiblished  1779,  and 
now  ai)i)roi)riated  to  female  syphilitic 
cases. 

3.  Marie  Hos]>ital,  est'iblished  1803. 
An  immense  building  with  2  wings, 
400  beds. 

4.  •■•  Chernorabochy,"  or  liosi)ital  for 
workmen.  Supi)orted  out  of  a  ttix  of 
(jO  cop.  levied  on  the  lower  classes  in 
towns. 

In  addition  to  these  hospitals,  con- 
ducted on  the  most  ]ierfect  systems, 
are  many  charitiible  institutions,  such 
for  instance  as  the  Hosi)ital  and  Dis- 
})ensary  of  the  Sisters  of  INIercy,  the 
Ophthalmic  Ilosjtital,  the  Hospitil  of 
St.  Mary  INIagdaleu,  ».\:c. 

A  medical  man  will  have  no  diffi- 
cultv  in  obtjiining  admission  to  tho 
civil  and  militjiry  hospitals  of  St. 
Petersburg. 

The  average  daily  number  of  sick 
in  the  civil  hospitals  of  St.  Pi'ters- 
burg,  during  an  ordinary  seascm,  is 
4000.  The  average  mortality  in  tho 
civil  hospitals  is  1  in  10  or  17.  There 
is  a  lunatic  asylum,  with  about  250 
inmates,  a  few  miles  on  the  road  to 
Peterhof.  The  practitioners  at  all  these 
estidilishments  are  mostly  German'; 
and  the  mortality,  from  the  weakness 
of  the  constitutions  of  the  i)aticnts,  and 
l)artly  from  their  unbelief  in  medical 
science,  is  excessive,  comjiared  with 
that  of  other  cities.  The  death- 
rate  in  Euroi)ean  Russia  is  3*43  i)er 
cent.  Great  mortality  has  hitherto 
prevailed  in  the  naval  and  militjiry 
hospitals  :  at  tho  former  the  ratio  of 
deaths  to  recoveries,  in  1857,  was  1  in 
14',,  the  surgical  operations  being  more 
especially  fatjil ;  but  a  better  systtan 
of  diet  and  other  improvements  have 
been  introduced  with  a  beneficial 
effect.  Travellers  are  warned  not  to 
drink  the  water  of  the  Neva  ;  its  dis- 
agreeable effects  are  sometimes  felt 
even  when  taken  in  the  shajie  <)ftoa. 
For  further  medical  information,  vide 
Introiluction. 

Dr.  Carrick,  M.D.,  is  the  physician 
to  the  British  Embassy. 


Russia. 


Boute  1. — St.  Pefcrshnrr/ :  TJieatres. 


141 


29.  Theathes. 


There  are  four  public  Theatres  at 
St.  Petersburg:  1,  the  Great  Theatre; 
2,  the  INIarie  Theatre  (both  these  in 
the  same  square  l)etween  the  Moika 
and  Catherine  Canals)  ;  3,  Alexander 
Theatre,  in  the  Nevski  Perspective; 
and  4,  Michael  Theatre,  near  the 
palaces  of  that  name  :  all  under  the 
management  of  goverinnent. 

1.  The  Great  Theatre  is  devoted 
during  the  winter  season  (with  the  ex- 
ception of  Lent)  to  the  Italian  ojjera, 
for  which  one  of  the  best  troupes  in 
Eurojje  is  always  engaged.  The  first 
great  musical  work  produced  in  Russia, 
Paisiello's  '  Barbiere  di  Siviglia,'  was 
originally  performed  at  St.  Peters- 
burg in  1780.  All  the  most  approved 
operas  are  reproduceil  here  with  much 
success.  The  mlse  en  scene  is  always 
most  perfect,  and  the  costumes  rich 
and  true.  A  very  large  sum  is  de- 
voted yearly  by  the  government  to  the 
cultivation  of  the  histrionic  art  in  all 
its  branches,  and  a  large  school  is 
maintained  for  the  education  of  act- 
resses and  ballet-dancers.  The  ballets 
here  i^iveu'.are  very  much  frequented. 
Of  tliese  the  '  Fille  de  Pharaon,'  the 
'Tsar  devitsa'  or  Maiden  Tsar,  and 
the  'Golden  Fish'  (both  the  latter 
being  based  on  national  popular  le- 
gends), are  admirably  rendered.  The 
best  ballets  are  generally  given  on 
Sundays. 

The  Great  Theatre  was  originally 
built  in  1784 ;  it  was  burnt  down  in 
1817,  and  renovated  in  1830.  There 
are  G  tiers  of  boxes  and  17  rows  of 
chairs,  or  room  for  about  ^000  persons. 
The  prices  of  the  boxes  vary  from 
25  rs.  to  5  rs.  The  pit-stalls  of  the 
first  3  rows  are  8  and  G  rs. ;  the  furthest 
are  2  rs.  On  benefit  nights  the  prices 
are  considerably  raised.  Masked  balls 
on  a  large  scale,  frequented  by  the 
Emi)eror  and  members  of  the  Imp. 
Family,  are  given  here  during  the 
winter  season. 

2.  The  Marie  Theatre  is  appropriated 
to  the  Russian  opera  and  drama.    Pro- 


fane music  has  been  much  cidtivatcd 
in  Russia  of  late  years.     Bortniansky 
was  a  great  reformer  of  Russian  sacred 
music  about  the  year  1780,  and  Alexis 
Lvoif  was  the  first  Russian  who  com- 
posed operatic  music.    He  is  the  author 
of  the  Russian  National  Anthem.    Tho 
most  remarkable  composer,  however, 
is  Glinka.,   who.-5e  opera  of  '  Jizn  za 
Tsaria  '(l^ifr  ff'^*  the  Tsar)  is  admirable 
for  the  correctness  of  its  composition, 
and  for  the  beauty  of  its   melodies, 
which  are  all  national.     The  subject 
of  this  very  popular  opera  is  the  de- 
votion of  a  peasant  who  saved  the  Tsar 
IMiehael  by  leading  a  detachment  of 
Poles  who  were  seeking  him  into  a 
deep  and  thick  forest,  where  they  all 
perished.     Vcrstofsky  has  written  tho 
nmsic  of  several  vaudevilles,  and  some 
comic  operas,  of  which  the  best  known 
is  '  The  Tomb  of  Askold.'     The  opera 
1)y  Glinka  affords  an  opportunity  of 
studying  Russian  melodies  and  cos- 
tumes, which  should  be  eagerly  seized 
by  the  traveller.     The  "Mazurka,"  a 
Polish    dance,    much    in  fashion   in 
Russia,  is  introduced  into  one  of  tho 
acts.      Shakspearian   tragedies    in   a 
Russian  translation  are   occasionally 
given  here.    The  prices  are  lower  than 
at  the  Great  Theatre. 

3.  Alexander  Theatre.'— Korc  Rus- 
sian comedies  and  dramas  are  acted. 
Griboyedoft's  comedy,  '  Sorrow  comes 
from  Wit,'  a  satire  on  Moscow^  so- 
ciety, and  Gogol's  *  Reviser,'  in  which 
the  corruption  of  the  old  Russian  offi- 
cial is  well  portrayed,  are  well  worth 
seeing  for  the  sake  of  the  acting  and 
the  scenes  of  Russian  life  which  they 
hold  up  to  view,  and  which  are  in 
great  part  intelligible,  even  in  the 
absence  of  a  knowledge  of  the  Russian 
language.  This  theatre  was  opened 
in  1832"  It  has  G  tiers  of  boxes  and 
9  rows  of  stalls.  The  prices  are  very 
moderate.  It  possesses  none  of  the 
beauty  and  magnificence  of  the  two 
theatres  already  mentioned. 

4.  Michael  Theatre,  opened  in  1833. 
French  and  German  plays  are  per- 
formed here  in  winter  by  troupes  as 
good  as  any  on  the  Continent.     All 


142 


Boiite  1. — St.  Pefcrshurg  :  Chibs  ;  Societies. 


Sect.  I. 


Eussia.  Boutc  1. — St.  Pctershurg  :  Summer  Gardens. 


143 


the  most  popular  farces  of  the  Parisian 
stage  are  reproduced  licre  with  very 
great  success. 

The  ( Jreat  and  IVIichael  Theatres  are 
generally  very  nnnieroiisly  attended. 
Travellers  should  ajijily  or  send  early 
f(n-  tickets.  French  spoken  at  the 
box-oflfice.  In  summer,  theatrical  re- 
jtn^sentations  are  occasionally  given 
tit  a  theatre  on  Kamennoi  island. 


oO.  Chths  and  Re>ifaurant8.  The 
principal  club  is  called  the  English 
Club,  because  it  was  founded  in  1770 
by  an  English  mereliant  of  the  name  of 
(iardener.  It  is  situated  on  tiie  Fon- 
tanka  Canal,  near  the  Anitchkolf 
JJridge.  Admission  through  a  mem- 
ber. Very  few  of  the  English  resi- 
(h'uts  now  belong  to  it.  The  club 
which  is  likely  to  be  of  most  use  t<j 
the  English  traveller  is  the  Connner- 
cial  Club,  on  the  English  Quay,  be- 
tween the  English  Chapel  and  the 
Nicholas  Bridge.  Here  travellers  can 
be  inscril)ed  by  their  bankers  or  friends 
for  tlie  whole  period  of  tlieir  residence 
at  St.  Petersburg,  and  enjoy  all  tlie 
advantages  of  members.  I^xcellent 
dinners  and  a  table-d'hote  on  "  ex- 
change days  "  (Tuesdays  and  Fridays) 
are  among  tliose  advantages.  The 
'  Tunes '  and  otlier  Ihiglisli  news- 
})apers  are  kept  in  the  reading-ro<»m. 
The  Nobility  Club,  the  (Jerman  or 
Schuster  Club  (so  called  after  the 
name  of  the  founder),  and  tlie  Club  of 
the  Russian  INIerchants,  are  large  esta- 
blishments, where  subseri]>tion  balls 
are  given  during  the  winter  season. 
The  Agricultural  Club,  in  the  No- 
bility Assembly-house,  combines  ad- 
vantages of  a  social  and  domestic 
character  with  those  of  a  learned  so- 
ciety, where  subjects  of  rural  economy 
are  formally  discussed.  The  Imi)erial 
Yacht  Club,  which  is  the  most  exclu- 
sive, is  in  Great  INIorskoy-street. 

The  summer  station  of  the  Eiver 
Yacht  Club  is  on  Yelaghin  Island, 
where  the  large  collection  of  boats  and 
the  building-sheds  of  the  club  will 
well  rei)ay  a  visit.  Vide  JJiurcs.  Th«^ 
best  Iteatnurauts  are  Uusaux's,  Mar- 


tin's, and  Bon  I's,  in  Great  Morskoy- 
street,  and  Doiiou's.  at  the  Singer's 
Bridge.  Dinners  from  1  r.  to  any 
price. 

Excellent  luncheons  may  be  ob- 
tained at  Wolff's  and  Dominique's 
Bestaurants,  both  in  the  Nevski  Per- 
si)ective. 


31.  Learned  Societies. — Foremost 
amongst  these  is  the  Imperial  Geogra- 
jihical  Society,  establisiied  in  ISI'), 
and  now  inuler  the  presidency  of 
H.I.H.  the  Gran<l  Duke  Constantine. 
It  numbers  about  000  fellows,  besides 
honorary  and  corresjjonding  members. 
Its  annual  rei)ort  is  published  in  Bus- 
sian.  The  proceedings  of  the  Society 
contain  most  valuable  contributions 
t«^  geograi)hical  science,  especially 
with  referi'nee  to  tlie  distant  and  little- 
known  C(  (untries  of  Central  Asia.  The 
library  is  well  supplied,  and  there  is 
a  very  interesting  etlinological  mu- 
seum, representing  the  costumes  of  tlie 
several  races  subject  to  Bussia.  The 
meetings  take  place  only  in  winter. 
Admission  on  a})pli('ation  to  the  secre- 
tary. Among  the  other  societies  are 
the  Imperial  Arclueological,  the  Bus- 
siaii  Entomological,  the  Free  Econo- 
mical, tlie  Imperial  INIineralogical, 
and  tlie  Historical.  There  are  several 
societies  of  a  benevolent  character, 
aufl  an  excellent  associati<»n  called 
"  The  Society  for  the  Encouragement 
of  Art."  where  pictures  and  other 
objects  of  art,  by  foreign  and  native 
artists,  are  exhiluted  all  the  year  round. 
Tile  rooms  of  this  society  ari'  at  the 
Police  Bridge,  in  the  Nevsky.  Ad- 
mission on  payment  of  25  coi)ecks. 
Very  pleasing  and  characteristic  pic- 
tun's  by  Bussian  artists  may  be  Ixnight 
there. 


32.  Private  Collections. — Besides  the 
celebrated  Lcuchtenljerg  Gallery,  for- 
merly at  Munich,  but  now  in  the  palace 
of  tlie  Duke  of  Eeuchtenberg,  ^vhicll 
would  recjuire  a  catalogue  by  itself 
(see  Waagen).  the  private  collection  of 
H.l.il.  tile  (i rand  Duchess  ^larie  con- 
tains several  tine  pictun-s  by  the  an- 


I 


1 


cient  Italian  and  Spanish  masters,  as 
well    as    many    good    specimens    by 
modern   artists.     The  palaces  of  the 
Russian  nobles  contain  likewise  very 
valuable  and  interesting  collections  of 
art.     1'he    Counts    Serge    and    Paul 
Stroganoif,  who  are  both  distinguished 
connoisseurs  and  lovers  of  art.  possess 
I)ictures  which  would  be  considered 
valuable   acquisitions   in   any  public 
galh-ry.  The  collection  of  Count  Serge, 
which  is  in  the  Stroganoif  House,  a 
fine  building  by  Bastrelli,  at  the  Po- 
lice Bridge,  opposite  the  "  Society  for 
the  Encouragement  of  Art,"  contains 
amongst  other  treasures  an  admirable 
head  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  a  sketch 
by  Correggio,  2  excellent  jwrtraits  by 
Tintoretto,  4  Bubens.  2  capital  por- 
traits by  Van  Dyck,  a  beautiful  and 
highly   finished    cabinet    picture    by 
Bembrandt,  as  well  as  excellent  speci- 
mens of  Teniers,  Cuyp,  Adrian  Van- 
develde,  Hackert,  and  Van  der  Heyden. 
The  collection  of  Count  Paul  Strog- 
anoft'  is  worthily  lodged  in  one  of  the 
prettiest  houses  in  St.  Petersburg,  at 
the  corner  of  the  Si-rgiefskaia  and  the 
]M()hkovaia,  a  chef-d'ojvre  of  elegance 
and  comfort,  built  by  iNIonighetti.  a 
living  architect  of  great  taste.     The 
principal  pictures  in  this   small  but 
choice    collection    are    by    Filippino 
Lipi>i  (a  small  but  beautiful  specimen 
of  this  master),  Cima  da  Conegliano, 
SebastiandelPiombo,  Bubens,  Van  der 
Heist,  Nicolas  3Iaes,  Peter  de  Hoogh, 
Adrian  Vandevelde,  and  Buysdael. 

A  few  doors  from  Count  1*.  Stroga- 
noflfs  house  in  th(^  Mokhovaia  is  the 
collection  of  Mr.  YakuntchikofF,  con- 
taining some  good  pictures  of  the 
modern  Dutch,  Flemisli,  and  French 
Bchofds ;  amongst  others,  the  repetition 
of  the  great  picture  in  the  Luxem- 
bourg, by  Bosa  Bonheur.  IMr.  Dru- 
jinin,  a  wealthy  proprietor  of  mines  in 
Siberia,  who  lives  in  the  same  street, 
has  a  beautiful  sea-piece  by  Buysdael, 
and  some  curious  specimens  of  pre- 
cious stones  and  minerals  from  his. 
mines.  The  once  celebrated  collection 
of  marbles,  bronzes,  pictures,  and 
curiosities  of  all  kinds,  which  belonged 
to  Monferrand  the  architect,  is  now 
dispersed.    The  collection  of  Senator 


Smirnoif  contains  some  excellent  por- 
traits :  Catherine  II.,  by  Lampi ;  the 
painters  Largilliere,  Bigaud,  and  Da- 
vid, by  themselves;  Cosmo  I.,  by 
Bronzino;  a  portrait,  by  Antonio 
Moro ;  the  Infant  Don  Fernando,  sai<l 
to  be  by  Bubens— an  excellent  por- 
trait, most  probably  by  Van  Tulden  ; 
a  fine  head  of  a  Monk,  of  the  Spanish 
school ;  and  amongst  the  modern  pic- 
tures by  French  artists,  a  small  De- 
camp and  Gudin. 

The  lemaining  collections  of  any 
note  are  tliose  of  Prince  Gortchakott', 
Count  Peter  Schouvaloff,  Count  Orlof- 
Davydott",  Prince  Wladimir,  Bariat- 
inski,  and  Doctor  Kozlof. 


33.  Summer  Gardens.— This  is  the 
Hyde  Park  of  St.  Petersburg,  and  a 
favourite  lounge  of  the   inhabitants, 
especially  in  spring,  before  the  capital 
is   deserted    for    summer    residences. 
The  gardens  were  laid  out  in  1711, 
and  are  half  a  mile  in  length  by  a 
quarter  in  breadth.     The   walks   are 
well  shaded  by  fine  old  trees  and  orna- 
mented with  marble   statues,   which 
are  cased   in   wooden    boxes    during 
winter  to  protect  them  from  the  action 
of  the  frost.     In  one  corner  stands  the 
Summer   Palace  in  which  Peter  the 
Great  dwelt,  and  for  which,  in  fact, 
tlie  gardens  were  created.     It  was  also 
the  residence  of  the  Empress  Anne ; 
and  Biren,  the  tyrannical  regent,  was 
arrested  there.    A  few  articles  of  fur- 
niture used  by  Peter  are   preserved 
inside.     Near  this  house  is  a   hand- 
some  monument   to  the    memory  of 
Kryloft',  the   great   Bussian   fabulist. 
The  bronze  bas-reliefs  and  ornaments 
represent  the  subjects  of  his  best  com- 
positions.    During   the  short  months 
of    the    Bussian    summer    numerous 
groups   of   i)rettily   dressed   children 
will    be    found    playing    under    the 
shadow  of  him  who  wrote  so  well  for 
their  instruction  and  amusement.     At 
the  other   end  of   the    garden  is   a 
beautiful  urn  of  porphyry,  presented 
by  the  King  of  Sweden,  and  of  which 
an  exact  counterpart  exists  in  Her 
Majesty's  grounds  at  Balmoral.     The 


114        Boute  1. — St.  Pctershirg :  Excliange  ;  Post  Office.       Sect.  1. 


Iiussia. 


Boute  1. — St.  Peter bhurg :  Buildings. 


145 


Iiaudsomc  iron  railing  frontin.u^  tlio 
Neva  was  put  np  in  1784,  after  a 
desi<j:n  by  Velten,  then  Director  oi  the 
Academy  of  Arts.  In  former  days 
the  sons  and  dau.i^liters  of  lUissian 
merchants  and  tradesmen,  dressed  in 
their  best  apjtnrel,  assembled  in  these 
jjjard  .s  on  Whit-lMonday  to  choose 
I)artncrs  for  life,  bnt  the  cnstom  is  now 
almost  obsolete.  The  larg(i  square 
alonj^side  is  called  the  "  Tsaritsin 
Lujjj"  or  Empress'  Field,  lievicws  are 
held  there. 

At  the  entrance  of  the  garden, 
facing  the  Quay,  a  Chapel  dedicated 
to  8t.  Alexan(hr  Nevsky,  marks  the 
si)ot  where  the  Emperor  Alexander  If. 
stood  when  his  life  was  attempted 
by  Karakozoft;  in  18<JG.  The  text  in 
letters  of  gold  over  the  princii)al  \\ov- 
tico  is  "Touch  not  mine  anointed." 
The  chapel  was  raised  by  public  sub- 
scription, and  is  therefore  a  monu- 
ment of  the  love  and  sympathy  of  the 
Itussian  jieople. 

Steamers  leave  from  opposite  tlie 
summer  gardens  for  the  several  islands 
of  the  Neva. 


34.  The  Exchange  and  Private 
Bankers. — A  line  building  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  Vasnili  Island,  originally 
erected  1784,  after  designs  by  Qna- 
renghi;  but  entirely  rebuilt  between 
1804  and  1810,  by  Thomon.  The 
great  hall  of  the  Exchange  is  of  very 
largo  dimensions,  and  is  lighted  from 
above.  A  colossal  bust  of  Alexander 
I.  is  placed  in  it.  Stately  llights  of 
stejis  lead  from  this  noble  edifice  to 
the  river,  and  on  the  open  space  in 
front  of  it  are  two  massive  "  Columna; 
RostratsB"  above  100  ft.  in  height, 
decorated  with  the  prows  of  ships,  in 
honour  f»f  Mercury,  and  each  sur- 
mounted by  tliree  Atlantas  that  sup- 
lX)rt  hollow  globes,  in  which  fires  are 
sometimes  lighted.  It  should  be 
visited  during ''  change  "  hours  between 
3  and  5  p.m.  There  is  an  extensive 
garden  beyond,  which  is  converted  in 
spring  into  a  market  for  birds,  dogs, 
and  other  early  importations  on  the 
opening  of  the  navigation.  The  Cus- 
tom-house is  immediately  behind. 


The  bankers'  ortices  are  situated 
near  the  English  Quay.  The  chief 
banking-houses  are  '*  St.  I'etersburg 
Joint-stock  Conunercial  Bank;" 
Messrs.  Thomson,  Bonar,  and  Co.  ; 
and  Messrs.  Wyneken  and  Co.  Busi- 
ness hours,  10  to  4. 


35.  Post  and  Trlrrfraph  Ofjlrea. — 
These  are  almost  contiguous,  in  Botch- 
tani sky-street  which  runs  oft",  and  is 
])artly  parallel  witli,  the  boulevard 
that  extends  from  tlu;  Nicholas  Bridge 
to  St.  Isaac's.  Letters  for  England 
and  the  Contini'ut  must  be  posted 
early  in  the  morning.  Delivery  about 
o  P.3I.  The  i)ostagc  to  England  is  2G 
C(»p.  via  Belgium,  and  2'J  cop.  via 
France,  or  lOrf.,  and  10  cop.  to  any  part 
of  the  interior.  Tiie  town-post  goes  out 
several  times  a  day.  Boxes  for  town 
and  country  letters  in  all  the  princi- 
pal tlioroiighfiires,  and  at  the  chief 
luttels.  The  town  postage  is  5  copecks. 
Stamps  only  sold  at  tlie  post-office, 
although  kept  at  the  hotels.  I'repay- 
ment  of  foreign  letters  is  not  obliga- 
tory. No  newspapers  are  transmitted 
by  post  to  Bussia  that  have  not  l)een 
subscribed  for  at  St.  Petersburg.  The 
charge  for  a  telegram  to  l^ondon  is 

3  rs.  for  20  words,  including  the  ad- 
dress. Tlie  time  of  transmi.ssic  »n  varies 
according  to  the  amount  of  business; 

4  hrs.  is  alxtut  the  mininuun.  ]Mes- 
sages  in  English  taken.  Telegrams 
may  be  sent  lience  to  Teheran  and  to 
Kiakhta  in  Siberia  for  Bekin. 


36.  Smnmarij  of  Build ings.  —  Al- 
though the  principal  ol)j(vts  of  interest 
which  are  to  be  seen  at  St.  Petersburg 
have  now  l)een  enumerated,  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  city  would  not  be  complete 
without  a  cursory  mention  of  the  fol- 
lowing buildings  find  institutions. 

1.  Lewhtenberg  or  Marie  Palace, 
behind  St.  Isaac's,  built  in  1844  for 
the  Grand  Duchess  Marie ;  fitted  up 
with  mobt  eX(iuisite  taste,  and  has  a 
large  winter  garden.  The  picture 
gallery  has  been  described.     The  pa- 


lace occupies  the  site  of  a  house  which 
once  bcLmged  to  Prince  Czernishoff, 
where  tlie  Emperor  Paul  entertained 
the  I'rince  de  Gmde'.     On  tliat  occa- 
sion the  apartments  were  furnished  in 
exact  imitation  of  those  at  Chantilly 
when  Paul  visited  him  in  1783.     Tlie 
servants  wore  the  liveries  of  the  Prince, 
and  over  the  entrance  of  the  palace 
an    inscription    stated  it  to  be   the 
**  Hotel  de  Conde."    2.  Palace  of  the 
(irand  Duke  Nicholas,  at  the  Nicholas 
Bridge,  recentlv  constructed.     3.  Pa- 
lace  of  Grand  Duke  Michael  on  the 
Court  Quay.     4.  Michael  Palace,  oc- 
cupied by  the  Grand  Duchess  Helen, 
in  3Iichael  Square,  built  by  Rossi  in 
1822;    a    vast    and    elegant    edifice, 
ornamented  in  front  with   pillars  of 
the  Corinthian  order.    A  large  garden 
is  attached  to  it.   5.  AnitchhofVAhif^ii, 
in  the  Nevsky,  built  in  1744,  by  Count 
Itastrelli,  for  the  Empress  Elizabeth, 
who  gave  it  to  Count  Razumofski.    It 
reverted  to  the  crown  in  171)1,  when  it 
became  the  seat  of  the  "  Cabinet,"  or 
that  of  the  administration  of  the  Impe- 
rial  household.     The  widow  of  the 
Emi)eror  Nicholas  resided   and   died 
there,  but  it  is  now  occupied  l)y  the 
Tse'sarevitch   and   his  consort  Marie 
Fcodorowna,  late  Princess  Dagmar  of 
Denmark.     On  the  bridge  bcy<jnd  the 
l)alace  are  the  Well-known  equestrian 
statues  by  Baron  Klodt.    0.  The  large 
house  over  the  bridge,  on  the  rt.,  is 
the  residence  of  the  princely  family  of 
BeloseUJci-  Beloserski,   containing   the 
most  beautiful  staircase  and  the  rich- 
est suite  of  apartments  of  any  of  the 
private  palaces  of  St.  Petersburg.     It 
is  full  of  pictures  and  costly  objects 
of  art.    7.  The  State  Bank  in  Great 
Garden-street,  opposite  the  Stchukin 
Dvor.      This   handsome    building   is 
likewise  due  to  the  architect   Qua- 
renghi.    It    is    a    State    institution, 
ostensibly  for  the  promotion  of  trade, 
Imt  in  reality  a  branch  of  the  treasury 
and  an  agency  between  the  govern- 
ment and  the  public  for  sundry  finan- 
cial transactions.    8.  The  establishnent 
for  printing  the  notes  of  this  bank  and 
other   government   paper   will   repay 
inspection.     It  lies  in  the  direction  of 
the  Peterhoff  Riiilway   Stat.     There 


is  an  Artesian  well  on  the  premises, 
9.  The  Town  Hall,  on  the  Nevski, 
surmounted  by  a  signal  tov^-er.  The 
business  of  the  town  corporation  is 
transacted  here.  10.  Opposite  the 
Gostinnoi  Dvor  is  the  Passage  or 
arcade  in  which  pedestrians  take 
refuge  in  case  of  rain.  The  shops 
arc  principally  kept  by  foreigners. 
11.  Riding  School  of  the  Horse-guards 
and  Barracks,  along  the  boulevard 
near  the  Grand  Duke  Nicholas'  Palace. 
These  may  be  inspected  by  military 
men  on  ap})lication  to  some  of  the 
officers.  12.  The  riding  -  school  at 
the  opposite  end  of  the  square,  near 
the  palace,  is  now  converted  into  a 
Museum  of  Agriculture,  where  the 
various  processes  of  agriculture  used 
in  liussia  are  exhibited.  13.  Militarij 
Schools,  Technological  Institute,  &c. 
Travellers  who  desire  to  study  the 
system  of  education  pursued  in  liussia 
will  probably  obtain  letters  of  intro- 
duction which  will  procui-e  for  them 
the  information  they  seek.  14.  Physi- 
cal Observatory,  alongside  the  School 
of  Mines,-  where  the  temi^rature  of 
the  atmosphere  and  other  phenomena 
are  carefully  recorded.  1 5.  The  Ceme- 
teries of  Smolensk,  and  Volkova  will 
afibrd  materials  for  reflection,  especi- 
ally on  the  first  IMonday  after  Easter, 
or  "  Recollection  IMonday."  Thou- 
sands congregate  to  the  cemeteries 
three  or  four  times  during  the  year, 
bringing  with  them  provisions  of 
every  kind,  which  are  consumed  over 
the  graves  of  departed  relatives  and 
friends.  Much  taste  and  feeling  arc 
exhibited  in  the  monumental  records 
of  the  dead;  they  illustrate,  better 
than  words,  the  kindly  and  sympa- 
thetic temperament  of  the  Russian 
people. 


37.  Sports  and  Amusejients. 

In  summer  the  tourist  can  join  the 
matches  of  the  St.  Petersburg  Cricket 
Club,  or  the  excursions  of  the  English 
Boat  Club ;  he  can  play  at  Tennis  in 
a  court  adjoining  the  cricket-ground, 


146 


Boiite  1 . — St.  Petershurg :  Drives. 


Sect.  I. 


on  Vas.sili  Island,  and  shoot  black- 
cock, capercailzie,  snipe,  and  duck, 
from  July  to  October.  Fishinp:  is  not 
much  cultivated,  but  there  is  good 
sport  to  be  had  a  short  way  out  of 
town,  towards  Finland.  In  winter 
there  is  bear,  elk,  and  wolf  hunting 
in  the  neighbourliood  of  tlie  capital ; 
hares  are  so  plentiful  as  scarcely  to 
afford  any  sport.  A  sid.)scription  pack 
of  fox-liounds  has  long  been  kept, 
witli  occasional  intermissions,  at  a 
hunting-lodge  called  Gore'lue,  sup- 
])orte(l  by  tlie  Engli.sh  residents.  In 
winter,  skating  and  going  down  ice- 
hills  aftbrd  most  healthy  and  mirthful 
exercise.  Drives  in  troikas,  or  sledges 
drawn  by  3  horses  abreast,  complete 
the  amusements  to  which  the  traveller 
in  Russia  will  be  welcomed  by  any 
member  of  the  British  communitv  at 
St.  Petersburg  to  whom  he  may  have 
been  recommended.  For  further  jiar- 
ticulars  respecting  sport,  vide  Intro- 
duction. 


38.  Drives.  —  The  first  drive  the 
tijurist  should  take  in  summer  is  to 
the  islands  of  tlie  Neva,  a  little  before 
sunset,  tlie  hour  at  which  the  rank 
and  fashion  still  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  St.  Petersburg  assemble  at  the 
'•  Point "  iStrelka)  of  Yelagin  Island. 
Crossing  the  Trinity  Bridge,  he  will 
be  carried  swiftly  along  the  Kamenno- 
OsfrofsJd  Frospect,  lined  on  cither  side, 
iirst  witli  the  houses  of  the  poorer 
classes,  and  further  on  with  sub- 
urban retreats  of  varying  attractions. 
Beyond  Kamennoi,  or  Stone  Island,  is 
Krestofshi,  or  Cross  Island,  on  whidi 
stands  tlie  Beloselski-Belozerski  Clia- 
teau.  Beyond  this  again  is  Yelagin 
Island,  with  an  imperial  residence, 
very  prettily  laid  out  and  cliarniingly 
situated.  Tlie  view  from  this  chateau 
is  delightful ;  first  the  gardens,  witli 
their  neat  English-looking  gravel 
walks  and  tlower-beds  ;  then  the  broad 
sheet  of  the  Neva,  with  its  verdant 
banks,  dotted  with  picturesque  ciia- 
lets  standing  out  from  a  background 
of  sombre  pine-trees;  and  beyond 
again,  the  lofty  golden  spires  of  the 
capital   rising   in   the    distance    and 


j  glowing  with  the  last  red  rays  of  the 
setting  sun.  There  are  few  above 
the   condition   of  tradesmen  who  do 

I  not  aftbrd  themselves  the  luxury 
of  a  cottage  or  a  few  rooms  ])e- 
yond  the  precincts  of  the  hot  and 
dusty  city.  Men  of  business  retire  to 
the  islands  or  to  Peterhof  after  the 
hours  of  "  change,"  and  set  in  motion 
a  great  number  and  variety  of  con- 
veyances that  enliven  the  cliaussees 
and  make  them  look  somewhat  like 
the  Epsom  road  on  Derby  day.  Small 
river  steamers  convey  great  numbers 
from  a  landing-stage  o}>i)osite  the  Sum- 
mer Garden.  The  tourist  should  visit 
the  extensive  establishment  of  the 
Eiver  Yacht  Club  on  Yelagin  Island. 
On  his  way  back  to  town  he  should 
drive  to  Islers  establisliment  for  Min- 
eral Waters  at  Aovaia  Derevnia,  the 
Cremorne  of  St.  Petersburg  without 
the  dancing.  Several  other  [places  of 
entertainment,  with  dancing,  will  l>e 
passed ;  but  a  visit  to  these  we  leave 
to  tlie  tastes  and  inclinations  of  the 
tourist. 

Tlie  Botanical  Gardens  on  Ai)othe- 
caries'  Ishnid,  oi)en  to  the  public,  may 
interest  the  horticulturist.  The  science 
of  hot-house  gardening  is  here  brought 
to  the  utmost  jierfection,  and  one  of 
the  finest  assortments  of  tropical  i)lants 
has  been  collected  amid  the  snows  of 
the  north.  The  collection  of  Orchi- 
daceous i^lants  is  one  of  the  best  in 
Europe. 

The  more  distant  drives  can  only 
be  undertaken  under  the  guidance  of 
a  residi'iit.  Pergola,  Murina,  and 
other  places  further  in  Finland,  are 
strewed  with  pretty  villas,  where 
merriment  and  hospitality  aV)ound. 

A  very  short  drive  through  the 
streets  of  St.  Petersburg  will  bring 
the  visitor  to  the  Mosroio  Gate  or  Tri- 
umphal Arch,  where  the  oM  road  t<j 
the  ancient  capital  begins.  It  is  in  the 
Greek  style  of  architecture,  and  was 
finished  in  1838,  by  Stassof,  Court 
architect.  Twelve  columns  7  ft.  in 
diam.  and  OS  ft.  high,  support  an 
attic  ornamented  with  12  angels  in 
Ijas-relief,  while  above  is  the  inscrip- 
tion :  *'  To  the  triumphant  Russian 
armies,  in  memory  of  their  deeds  in 


Eussia. 


Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg  :  Cronstadt. 


117 


Persia,  in  Turkey,  and  in  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  troubles  in  Poland,  in  the 
years  1826,  1827,  1828,  1829,  1830, 
1831."  On  the  city  side  the  inscrip- 
tion is  in  Latin,  on  the  other  in  Rus- 
sian. This  magnificent  monument  is 
well  worth  seeing.  (For  description 
of  Narva  Triumphal  Arch  vide  Ex- 
cursion 1.) 

The  Gardens  o^  Bczhorodlo,  a  short 
distance  up  the  river  beyond  the  Sum- 
mer Gardens,  may  be  reached  in  one 
f)f  the  small  steamers  that  ply  on  the 
river.  There  is  an  establishment  there, 
called  the  Tivoli,  where  a  good  dinner 
jnay  be  obtained,  and  w  here  balls  are 
given  in  autumn.  It  is  also  a  place 
for  picnics  and  skating  under  shelter 
in  winter. 

The  Gardens  of  Catherinenhof,  in 
the  direction  of  the  road  to  Peterhof, 
are  only  visited  by  the  i)ublic  on  the 
1st  (13th)  3Iay,  to  hail  the  return  of 
spring.  The. old  palace  of  Cathe- 
rinenhof is  shown. 


39.   EXCVRSIONS. 

1.  To  Cronstadt,  Oranienbaum,  Pe- 
terhof, Strelna,  and  Monastery  of  St. 
Sergius. 

Tliis  excursion  niav  be  made  in  one 
day,  or  each  place  may  be  visited 
separately,  according  to  the  time  at 
the  dis})osal  of  the  tourist.  The  tra- 
veller may  even  reverse  the  itinerary 
and  jircx-eed  first  to  Sergi  or  Peterhof. 
The  following  is,  however,  a  sketch  of 
the  excursion  in  its  entirety. 

Leaving  the  Quay  of  Vassili  Island 
at  an  early  hour  (about  9  a.m.),  Cron- 
stadt is  reached  by  steamer  in  an  hour 
and  a  half. 

Cronstadt,  the  port  of  St.  Peters- 
burg, has  a  Pop.  of  37,000  Inhab.,  in- 
cluding the  garrison  (about  25.000). 
The  fortifications  are  extensive,  and 
were  begun  by  Peter  the  Great  in 
1703,  when  he  dispossessed  the  Swedes. 
The  first  fort  that  he  erected  was 
Kronschlott,  opposite  the  entrance  of 

Bu8«ia. — 1868. 


the  present  harbour.  Prince  Mensciii- 
kofi"  conducted  the  works  under  the 
directions  of  Peter,  and  one  of  the 
forts  still  bears  his  name.  Succeeding 
governments  have  strengthened  the 
fortifications,  and  secured  the  ap- 
l)roach  from  seaward  by  sinking  ships 
and  erecting  batteries,  especially  after 
the  visit  of  the  Baltic  Squadron  in 
1854.  It  has  long  been  the  chief 
station  in  the  Baltic  for  the  Russian 
fleet,  moored  in  a  harbour  in  the  rear 
of  the  fortifications.  The  western- 
most harbour  is  appropriated  to  mer- 
chant vessels,  of  which  about  1300 
enter  the  port  annually ;  no  fewer 
than  two  thirds  being  English.  The 
bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Neva  carries 
a  depth  of  only  8  to  10  ft.,  and  pre- 
sents a  verv  narrow  channel,  navigable 
by  ships  of  small  burthen.  The  larger 
vessels  discharge  and  load  at  Cron- 
stadt, their  goods  being  transported 
to  and  frf)ni  St.  Petersburg  in  lighters. 
The  declared  value  of  the  imports 
cleared  at  the  custom-house  at  St. 
Petersburg  amounts  annually  to  about 
13,000,000/. ;  and  the  exports  (prin- 
cipally tallow,  corn,  hemp,  and  fiax) 
to  about  7,000,000Z. 

This  trade  gives  rise  to  considerable 
activity  at  Cronstadt  between  May 
and  November,  and  enlivens  the  town, 
wliicli  in  the  winter  season  is  exceed- 
ingly dreary.  The  only  objects  to 
interest  the  stranger  are  the  fortifica- 
tions and  the  harbour,  which  he  can 
view  by  taking  a  walk  to  the  "  Mole- 
head,"  or  by  crossing  the  ''  Merchants' 
Harbour  "  in  a  ferry-boat.  The  canal 
is  bordered  with  granite  and  an  iron 
railing,  begun  by  Peter  in  1721,  and 
finished  by  the  Empress  Elizabeth. 
Another  canal,  commenced  in  1782, 
unites  the  "  Italian  Pond  '  with  the 
Merchants'  Harbour.  The  dry  docks 
will  admit  the  largest  vessels  of  war, 
and  a  splendid  steam  factory  almost 
rivals  Keyham  in  its  mechanical  ap- 
pliances. These  can  only  be  viewed 
by  permission  of  the  military  authori- 
ties. Strangers  may  drive  to  the 
extremity  of  the  island,  3  or  4  miles 
beyond  the  citadel-gate,  where  th'  y 
will  obtain  a  better  view  of  the  re- 
no^\^led  forts  of  Cronstadt  and  of  the 


148 


BoUtc  l.—St.  Petcrshmy  :  Orauicnhaim.  Sect.  1. 


Eiissla. 


Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Peterhof. 


149 


South  Chaimfl,  now  <li\niiuc'(l  up,  but 
wliich  8ir  Charles  Napier  ascended 
to  the  parallel  of  the  ,i;reat  Naval 
Hospital,  near  the  pier  tor  the  boats 
to  8t.  Petersburg.  The  Hummer  Gar- 
den, orij^inally  planted  by  Peter  the 
Great,  contains  a  restaurant  wliere 
refreshments  may  be  obtained.  Near 
to  it  and  to  tlie  governor's  residence,  | 
on  a  square  at  the  back  of  the  middle 
harbour,  is  a  statue  of  Peter  the 
Great,  by  Baron  Klodt. 

There  is  a  British  chapel  at  Cron- 
btadt,  freciuented  by  seafarers  and  by 
the  English  residents,  who  arc  about 
50  in  number.  It  is  also  the  seat  of  a 
British  vice-consulate. 

The  British  Seamen's  Hospital  op- 
posite the  English  cliapel  will  be 
visited  by  those  who  take  an  interest 
in  such '  institutions.  It  was  esta- 
blished in  1807  by  private  .subscrip- 
tion, and  is  under  the  i)atronage  of 
H.K.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales,  and  of 
U.K.  the  British  Ambassador  at  the 
Court  of  Kussia.  There  is  snfhcient 
accommodation  for  50  or  GO  patients, 
although  the  number  of  beds,_  when 
no  epiflemic  prevails,  is  only  35.  An 
inspection  of  the  premises  will  show 
tliat  nothnig  has  been  neglected  to 
make  tli«5  establishment  equal  to  the 
best  in  Europe,  or  even  anywhere,  on 
the  same  scale.     Tlie  purchase  of  the 


ground  and  the  building 


and  furnisli- 
mg     expenses     amounted     to    about 
5500/.,   of    which    2000/.,     were     ad- 
vanced    by     Ur.    Edward    Cazalet, 
an  Englisli  merchant  at  St.  Peters- 
burg.    This  debt  is  to  be  gradually 
l»aid  oft"  out  of  the  prospective   con- 
tributions of  tlie  charitable,  as  well 
as  out  of  tlie  i)rofits  of  the   institu- 
tion   arising  from  a  compulsory   tax 
on  all  British  vessels  discharging  or 
loading  at  Cronstadt,  at  the  rate  of 
1  rouble  per  man  of  the  crew  of  a 
sailing  vessel,  and  50  copecks  per  man 
of  the  crew  of  a  steamer— a  tax  that 
brings  in  about  10,000  rs.  per  annum. 
The  number  of  British  seamen  who 
have  the  advantage  of  this  excellent 
institution    during     the    months     of 
simmer  is  between  13,000  and  14,000, 
but  indirectly  its  benefits  have  been 
extended    to    nearly    10,000    seamen 


of  other  nations,  for  whom  another 
hospital  has  since  been  established  on 
a  similar  basis. 

The  affairs  of  the  British  Seamen's 
Hospital  ar(^  managed  by  a  connnittec 
of  which  H.B.INI.  Consul  at  St.  Peters- 
burg is  ex-otlicio  chairman.  Per- 
mission to  view  the  institution  will 
readily  be  granted  by  the  resident 
Medical  Officer. 

Jif'freshuwnts  may  be  had  at  tlic 
British  Hotel,  in  tlie  principal  street 
of  Cronstadt,  or  at  one  of  the  Clubs 
(the  Naval  and  the  Merchants')  if  the 
tourist  1)e  introduced  liy  a  mem1)er. 
English  is  spoken  in  most  of  the  shops, 
and  even  the  drojky-tlrivers  are  able 
to  converse  in  "  pigeon-English." 

Oranknhiuau.-^mn]]  steamers  ply 
sevt'ral   times   a    day    between   Cron- 
stadt and  Oranienbaum,  about  5  m. 
distant.      The     traveller    is    recom- 
mended  to   engage   a   carriage   or  a 
drojky  here  to  take  him  to  I'eterhof, 
or  even   to   Sergi,   with   the    under- 
standing that  ail  the  sights  between 
these  places  arc  to  be  visited.     A  car- 
riage for  the  day  will  cost  from  7  to 
10  ndjles.     Travellers  may,  if  they 
prefer  it,  proceed  from  Oranienbaum 
to  Peterhof  by  rail,  a  distance  of  6  m. 
The  palace  of  Oranienbaum  is  well 
worth  seeing.     Built  on  a  terrace,  it 
connnands    a    lovely    and    extensive 
view  of  Cronstadt  anil  its  fortiticaticms, 
and  of  an  immense  exi>ansc  of  water, 
studded  with   busy  craft    under  sail 
and  steam.     It  was  built  by  Menschi- 
kolf  in  1724,  and  confiscated  on  his 
attainder.      Subsequently   it    became 
the  favourite  residence  of  Peter  III., 
who   surrounde<l   himself  there   with 
his    Holstein    guard,    and    raised    a 
mimic  fortification,  which  is  still  to 
be    seen.      This    imperial    residence 
now  belongs  to  the   Grand  Duchess 
Helen. 

There  is  an  excellent  buffet  at  the 
Railway  Station  in  Oranienbaimi, 
where  dinner  or  refreshments  may  be 
had. 

Taking  the  high  road  to  St.  Peters- 
burg, the  tourist  will  pass  niunerous 
summer  residences  and  a  thriving 
German    colony.    The  first    chateau 


Ix'yond  Oranienljaum  is  SeiujiefJia,  the 
property  of  the  Grand  Duchess  ]\Iarie 
Nicolaevna.  The  house  is  most  beau- 
tifully situated  in  grounds  very  taste- 
fully ornamented.  Beyond  this  is 
^ohiffvtniKiya,  or  '•  Mine  Own,"  a  most 
lovely  miniature  ])alace,  built  for  the 
Emperor  Alexander  II.  when  heir 
api^arent.  Strangers  are  allowed  to 
inspect  it,  and  should  not  omit  doing 
so.  The  several  rooms  are  most  taste- 
fully and  richly  ornamented,  and  the 
garden  behind,  kept  with  the  utmost 
care,  affords  a  most  charming  pros- 
pect. The  summer  residence  and  the 
farm  of  I'rince  Peter  of  Oldenburii; 
stand  between  this  and  Peterhof. 

I'eferhof. — The  construction  of  this 
l)rettily-situuted  residence  was  com- 
menced about  1720.  The  jjalaee,  situ- 
ated on  an  elevation  of  GO  feet,  was 
built  by  Leblond,  under  the  directions 
of  Peter  the  Great,  and  is  one  of  the 
jirincijial  attractions  of  the  place. 
Although  every  emperor  and  every 
•empress  has  made  alterations  and  ad- 
ditions, the  character  of  the  whole  is 
the  same  as  that  of  all  the  palaces 
built  by  Peter  ;  even  the  yellow  colour, 
which  was  its  original  hue,  is  always 
renewed,  and  its  architecture,  like 
that  of  the  other  palaces,  is  very  in- 
significant in  style. 

Inside,  hinvever,  arc  to  be  seen 
some  beautiful  tapestries,  countless 
articles  of  virtu,  tazzas  of  porcelain, 
malachite,  and  marble,  and  a  num- 
ber of  pictures  chiefly  representing 
the  naval  victories  of  Orloff'and  other 
Kussian  generals  of  Catherine  II. 
There  is  also  one  highly  interesting 
apartment,  containing  a  collection  of 
3G8  female  portraits  executed  by  a 
certain  Count  llotari  for  that  Enq)ress 
during  a  journey  which  he  made 
tlirough  the  fifty  provinces  of  Russia. 
They  are  all  beautiful  young  girls, 
whom  the  count  has  painted  in  pic- 
turesque attitudes,  and  in  their  ua- 
ti(mal  costumes ;  and  one  cannot  but 
admire  the  inventive  genius  of  the 
artist  in  giving  a  different  position 
and  expression  to  so  many  faces. 
One  pretty  girl  is  knitting  diligently, 
another    embroidering;     one     peeps 


archly  from  behind  a  curtain,  another 
gazes  expectingly  from  a  window ; 
another  leans  over  a  chair,  as  if  list- 
ening to  her  lover ;  a  sixth,  reclining 
on  cushions,  seems  lost  in  thought. 
One  slumbers  softly  and  sweetly ;  this 
stands  before  a  glass,  combing  her 
beautiful  hair ;  that  has  bm-ied  her- 
self up  to  the  ears  in  fur,  leaving 
visible  only  a  pair  of  tender  rosy  lips, 
and  soft  blue  eyes  gleaming  from 
under  the  wild  bear's  skin.  There 
are  also  some  excellent  portraits  of 
old  people  :  two  in  particular  —  an 
old  man  with  a  staff,  and  an  old 
woman  by  the  fire.  This  collection 
is  uni(pie  in  its  kind,  and  would  be 
invaluable  for  a  physiognomist,  if  ho 
could  be  certain  that  these  portraits 
were  as  exact  and  faithful  as  they  are 
])leasing  and  tasteful.  But  this  is 
doubtful,  for  they  all  bear,  undeni- 
ably, rather  the  stamp  of  the  French 
school  than  of  the  Russian,  Tartar, 
Finnish,  or  any  other  nationality 
within  the  Russian  empire.  It  is  also 
a  suspicious  circumstance,  that  they 
were  done  by  a  gentleman  for  a  lady ; 
and  probably  behind  every  graceful 
attitude  some  fiattering  homage  to  the 
Empress  dies  concealed.  The  other 
apartments  do  not  contain  anything 
very  remarkable.  In  one  are  the  little 
table  and  benches  with  wdiich  the 
Emperors  Alexander  I.  and  Nicholas 
played  as  children  ;  in  another,  some 
carving  and  turner's  work  of  Peter 
the  Great. 

From  the  palace  t(3  the  sea-shore, 
the  garden  is  laid  out  in  terraces 
adorned  with  fountains  and  water- 
falls ;  the  basins,  the  Neptunes,  storks, 
swans,  and  nymphs,  the  tritons,  dol- 
phins, painted  rocks,  and  grottoes,  are 
copied  from  the  engravings  in  Hush- 
field's  '  Art  of  Gardening.' 

The  water-works  are  considered  but 
little  inferior  to  those  at  VersaillcSi 
The  fountain  called  the  Samson,  in 
front  of  the  palace,  is  a  magnificent 
jet-d'eau,  80  feet  high,  and  from  it  to 
the  sea,  a  distance  of  500  yards,  runs 
a  canal,  wherein  are  many  smaller 
fountains.  On  each  side  of  the  Samson 
so  called  from  a  colossal  bronze  figure 
tearing  open  the  jaws  of  a  lion  from 

I  2 


150 


Houte  1. — St  Petershiirg  :  Peterhof, 


Sect.  I. 


Russia. 


Boide  1, — 5/.  Petersburg :  Strelna. 


151 


whence  the  water  ruslies,  are  other 
jets-d'eaii  which  throw  water  vertically 
and  horizontally ;  these  basins  are  at 
tlie  foot  of  tlie  elevation  on  which  the 
palace  stands.  In  the  centre  is  a 
broad  flight  of  steps  leading  to  the 
palace,  and  on  each  side  a  continnons 
ran.ij^e  of  marble  t^labs  to  the  top  of  tiie 
hill  over  which  the  water  pours  down, 
the  slabs  beinj;  placed  high  and  far 
apart  so  as  to  allow  lamps  to  be 
arranged  behind  the  water.  This  is 
done  at  the  Peterhof  /V/e8. 

The  smaller  buildings  o(  Marly  and 
Montplaisir,  in  the  garden  below,  re- 
mind the  spectator  of  the  mochst 
domestic  arrangements  of  the  carpenter 
of  Saardam,  the  great  ref<irmer  of 
Eastern  Europe. 

It  was  from  Marly  that  Peter  the 
Great  loved  to  contemplate  his  infant 
fleet,  moored  l)eneath  the  batteries  of 
Cronstadt.  In  Montplaisir,  a  low 
Dutch-built  sunmier-house,  the  Em- 
press Elizabeth  used  to  anuise  her 
royal  leisure  by  cooking  her  own 
dinner.  In  this  lowly  abode  the  great 
Peter  breathed  his  last,  and  his  bed 
is  still  preserved  untouched  since  his 
death.  It  contains  a  small  collection 
of  pictures  of  the  Flemish  and  Dutch 
schools  of  the  T7th  and  beginning  of 
the  18th  centy,,  purchased  by  Peter 
the  Great  during  his  travels  in  Hol- 
land. 

Tlie  Hermitage  is  chiefly  remarkable 
for  the  contrivance  by  which  the  dishes 
and  plates  descend  from  the  table 
through  grooves  cut  in  the  floor,  and 
arc  replaced  by  others  without  any 
servant  being  seen. 

The  famous  Cottage  of  Catherine  is, 
without,  all  plain,  even  to  poverty; 
within,  all  glorious  and  radiant  with 
gold,  and  mirrors  reflecting  each  ob- 
ject, giving  the  tiny  dwelling  an  ap- 
pearance of  size  and  magnificence 
quite  astonishing. 

There  is  also  a  low  thatched  build- 
ing, called  the  Straw  Falace.  In  a 
piece  of  water  in  the  gardens  are 
H  great  many  tame  carp,  which  are 
regularly  fed,  and  come  to  the  visitors 
ag  readily  as  the  swans  in  St.  James's 
Park. 


The  English  Pari;  so  called  from  its 
having  been  laid  out  by  an  English 
gardener,  is  ou  the  right-hand  side  of 
the  road  coming  from  Oranienbaum. 
It  contains  an  old  building  designed 
by  Quarenghi,  and  called  the  English 
Palace,  where  subscription  balls  are 
given  in  autumn.  Many  ornamental 
cottages  and  pieces  of  water  surround 
it.  A  pretty  road  leads  through  the 
j)ark  to  a  charming  cottage  belonging 
to  the  Emperor,  and  called  Babbigon. 

Adjoining  the  lower  garden  of  the 
old  palace  of  Peterhof  is  Alexandria, 
the  private  grounds  of  the  Enii)eror, 
where  he  resides  while  at  Peterhof. 
There  are  several  imperial  cottages 
within  the  grounds  (to  wliich  visitors 
are  only  admitted  by  tickets  issued  by 
the  governor  of  the  town),  and  amongst 
them  is  the  small  house  of  the  Em- 
l)eror  Nicholas  I.,  from  tlie  roof  of 
which,  with  a  telescope  still  shown,  he 
was  wont  to  watch  tlie  movements  of 
the  Anglo-French  squadron  in  front 
of  Cronstadt.  Tliere  are  several  beau- 
tiful views  of  the  gulf  tf>  be  obtained- 
in  these  gardens.  A  little  stream 
which  flows  through  them  sets  in 
motion  a  miniature  mill,  constructed 
for  the  children  of  tlie  Emperor 
Nicholas. 

Visitors  preferring  to  dine  or  take 
luncheon  at  Peterhof  will  find  a  good 
hotel  close  t<j  tiie  steamboat  pier,  on 
the  shore  of  the  gulf. 

Passing  out  of  the  private  grounds, 
the  traveller  should  take  the  centre 
road,  or  that  between  the  high  road 
and  the  road  along  the  coast.  The 
first  Imperial  residence  on  the  right 
is  Znamemily,  belonging  to  the  Grand 
Duke  Nicholas,  and  prettily  situated 
on  the  top  of  a  high  embankment. 
His  farm,  calle<l  Krentz,  which  the 
tourist  should  inspect,  and  where  he 
should  refresh  himself  with  a  draught 
of  milk,  is  1^  m.  beyond. 

Mihailofshj,  the  property  of  the 
Grand  Duke  Michael,  is  about  1.^  ni. 
further  on.  It  is  built  in  the  Italian 
style,  and  is  really  a  princely  resi- 
dence. If  the  traveller  have  a  fsmcv 
for  viewing  palaces,  no  better  oppor- 
tunity coulcl  possibly  occur  than  dui-ing 


the  drive  here  described, 
yond  is 


2  m.  be- 


\ 


Strelna,  a  palace  of  the  Grand  Duke 
Constantine,  12  m.  from  8t.  Peters- 
burg. It  was  originally  built  in  1711, 
and  presented  by  Peter  the  Great  to 
his  daughter  Elizabeth,  by  whom  it 
was  much  neglected.  In  1797  the 
Emperor  Paul  gave  it  to  his  eldest 
son  Constantine,  who  resided  there  in 
summer,  and  considerably  improved 
the  grounds.  It  was  almost  entirely 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1803,  and  was 
rebuilt  by  the  Emperor  Alexander  I. 
Tlic  palace  and  groimds  wore  be- 
queathed to  General  Alexandroff,  from 
whose  family  they  have  since  been 
repurchased.  It  is  a  pretty  Gothic 
building,  situated  on  a  commanding 
jiosition ;  but  its  interior  is  plain,  and, 
with  the  exception  of  the  ball-room, 
simply  furnished.  The  gardens  are 
laid  out  in  the  Dutcli  style.  The 
marble  bath  was  built  for  the  consort  of 
the  Grand  Duke  Constantine  Nicolac- 
vitch. 

A  drive  of  about  a  mile  will  bring 
the  traveller  to  Sergi,  or  the  nK»nastcry 
of  St.  Ser^ius,  which  will  well  rejiay 
a  visit.  Tlie  monastery  of  Troitskaia- 
Sergieva  was  founded  in  1734  on  the 
site  of  a  farm  which  belonged  to  the 
daughter  of  John,  brother  of  Peter 
the  Great.  Her  sister,  the  Empress 
Anne,  bestowed  the  grounds  on  War- 
laam,  the  superior  of  the  Troitsa 
INIonastery,  near  Moscow,  by  whom 
the  first  church  and  cells  were  built. 
Until  17G4  this  monastery  continued 
to  be  attached  to  the  Troitsa.  The 
]irincii)al  churcli  stands  at  the  back 
of  the  grounds,  on  the  edge  of  an 
elevation  which  overlooks  the  estuary 
of  the  Neva,  and  is  certainly  one  of 
tlie  ])rettiest  in  llu.ssia.  Its  open  roof 
and  its  stalls  of  oak  give  it  an  air  of 
elegance  and  comfort  that  few  Russo- 
Greek  churches  possess.  It  bears 
some  resemblance  to  Merton  Col- 
lege Chapel  at  Oxford.  The  granite 
monoliths  were  quarried  on  the  spot. 
Below  are  numerous  mortuary  chapels, 
open  to  visitors.  These  are  the  sepul- 
chral vaults  of  many  great  families. 
They  are  full  of  tokens  that  the  tlcad 


are  not  forgotten  by  the  living.  In 
one  chapel  the  visitor  will  see,  over 
the  tombs  of  two  little  boys  and  their 
mother,  a  picture  almost  the  size  of 
life,  and  painted  from  actual  portraits, 
representing  the  mother  bringing  her 
children  to  the  Saviour,  who  receives 
them,  saying,  "Suffer  little  cliildren 
to  come  unto  me."  The  monuments 
ill  the  churcliyard  are  very  rich  and 
handsome.  On  some,  small  lamps  are 
kept  perpetually  burning,  as  if  to  in- 
dicate that  Hope  was  not  to  be  extin- 
guished by  Death.'  Great  crowds 
resort  to  this  monastery  on  Sundays, 
and  wander  among  the  gravestones. 
The  singing  in  this  monastery  is  very 
fine,  particularly  at  vespers  on  Satur- 
days, between  the  hours  of  7  and  9. 
Several  great  Russian  families  have 
erected  handsome  mausoleums,  which 
may  be  inspected  on  application  to  the 
obliging  Archimandrite,  who  continues 
to  spend  his  private  fortune  in  embel- 
lishing the  monastery. 

From  here  the  traveller  is  recom- 
mended to  rejoin  the  railway,  about 
1  m.  to  the  rt.  of  the  road.  He  may 
refresh  himself  at  a  celebrated  restau- 
rant called  Auguste's,  which  stands 
almost  at  the  corner  of  the  road  that 
leads  to  the  railway  station.  A  run 
of  half  an  hour  will  bring  the  tourist 
to  the  station  at  St.  Petersl)urg,  where 
he  will  find  numerous  drojkies  in 
waiting. 

Sometimes  a  carriage  may  be  pro- 
cured at  Sergi,  and  a  tourist  so  in- 
clined may  continue  his  journey  to 
St.  Petersburg  by  the  high  road  20  v.), 
passing  many  pretty  villas,  once 
tenanted  by  the  nobdity  of  Russia, 
but  abandoned  by  them  since  the 
Court  commenced  to  reside  for  longer 
jieriods  at  Tsarskoe  Selo. 

Twelve  versts  before  reaching  St. 
Petersburg  a  lunatic  asylum  will  be 
passed.  It  may  be  inspected  at  any 
time  on  application  to  the  medical 
superintendent,  who  speaks  English. 
It  is  one  of  the  best  establishments  of 
the  kind  in  Europe,  the  system  pur- 
sued being  only  partly  coercive  for  the 
more  refractory  patients. 

The  average  annual  number  of  in- 


152 


Piouie  1. — St.  Pctcrslurg :  Tsarslioe  Selo.  Sect.  I. 


Russia.  Bonie  1. — St.  Petersburg :  Tsar slwe  Selo. 


153 


mates  is  400.  The  principal  ft)rni  of 
malady  is  (lomentia,  the  cases  of 
melancholy  bein.u;  about  14  per  cent, 
less  than  of  the  former,  represented  ])y 
33  per  cent,  of  the  total  number.  Tlic 
cases  of  mania  between  1859-1803 
were  13  per  cent.,  and  imbecility  15 
per  cent.  The  number  of  cures  per- 
formed between  the  above  years  was 
9^  per  cent,  of  the  whole.  Mechanical 
restraint  was  used  in  ^riSG  per  cent,  of 
cases,  principally  in  those  of  females. 

The  capital  will  be  approached 
throui2;h  the  Triumi)h((l  Anhof  Nurra, 
so  called  after  tlic  road  which  jjiisses 
throuj^h  it,  and  which  leads  to  Narva 
and  the  Baltic  provinces.  This  tine 
pxte  commemorates  the  return  of 
the  Russian  troops  in  1815.  It  is 
formed  by  very  liigh  colunms  of  metal 
supportintij  the  arch,  wliich  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  triumphal  car  drawn 
by  six  liorses,  and  conducted  by 
victory  holding  the  trophies  of  glory 
and  of  combats.  Below,  between  the 
two  columns,  are  warriors  wearing? 
Slavonian  armour,  and  waiting  to  re- 
ceive their  laurel  w^reaths.  The  in- 
scription above,  in  Latin  and  Ilussian, 
is  :  *'  Grateful  llussia  to  its  victorious 
legions." 

The  otlier  triumphal  arch  of  St. 
Petersburg  lias  been  described  under 
"  Drives." 

2.  To  camp  at  Krnsno^  ScJo  by 
Peterliof  line  of  rail  in  ^  of  an  hour. — 
The  Guards  go  under  canvas  during 
the  summer  months,  and  the  great 
bulk  of  them  are  generally  encamixid 
at  Krasnoe  Selo,  The  emperor  re- 
views them  about  tlie  end  of  August, 
when  they  engage  in  mimic  warfare, 
and  attack  and  defend  neighbouring 
positions.  TJie  exercises  of  the  troops, 
and  perhaps  their  gymnastics,  will  be 
of  interest  to  the  military  traveller, 
who  should  come  provided  with  a 
uniform,  which  will  secure  the  kindest 
attention  on  the  part  of  the  officers  of 
the  statf,  including  quarters  and  a 
good  mount.  Forty  to  iifty  thousand 
troops  are  manceuvred  here. 

3.  Tsarsho^  Selo  and  ravlofsl:. — 
This    royal   residence  and  favourite 


resort  of  the  Imperial  family  is  distant 
about  15  m.  from  St.  Petersburg. 

The  best  and  most  rapid  mode  of 
proceeding  to  Tsarskoe  is  by  the  rail- 
road, the  first  laid  down  in  Russia, 
Init  it  may  be  readied  by  road,  taking 
I'ulkova  Observatory  on  the  way 
(vide  Excursion  4).  Tlie  train  will 
land  tlie  traveller  at  a  little  distance 
from  the  palace,  Ijut  drojkies,  or,  in 
winter,  sledges,  are  in  readiness  at 
the  station  to  carry  the  passengers  on. 
At  the  entrance  to  the  grounds  of  the 
palace  are  two  small  towers  caiTcd 
with  Kgyj)tian  ligures  and  hierogly- 
l)hics  taken  from  the  classical  work  of 
Denon  on  that  country. 

The  fi\9ade  of  the  FaJace,  built  in 
1744,  but  embellished  by  Catherine  II., 
is  780  ft.  in  length ;  originally  every 
statue,  pedestal,  and  capital  of  the 
numerous  columns,  the  vases,  carvings 
and  other  ornaments  in  front,  W(^re 
covered  with  gold-leaf,  and  the  gold 
used  for  that  purpose  amounted  to 
more  than  a  million  of  ducats.  In  a 
few  years  the  gildings  wore  off,  and 
the  contractors  engaged  in  repairing 
it  oftered  the  Empress  nearly  half  a 
million  of  silver  roubles  for  the  frag- 
ments of  gold-leaf;  but  Catherine 
refused,  saying,  '•  Je  ne  suis  pas 
dans  I'usago  dc  vendre  mes  vieilles 
hardes." 

The  only  gilding  which  now  re- 
mains is  on  the  dome  and  cupolas  of 
the  ch.  The  front  of  the  palace, 
towards  the  gardens,  is  stained  gret'U, 
white,  and  -yellow.  The  first  portion 
of  the  building  generally  shown  is 
the  chapel,  a  spacious  room,  fitted  up 
entirely  with  dark-coloured  wood, 
most  lavishly  gihled,  even  the  ceiling 
being  one  bright  sheet  of  gold ;  on 
the  walls  are  sonic  curious  old  jiaint- 
ings.  A  key  of  the  city  of  Adrian- 
ople  hangs  beside  the  altar.  The 
royal  family  have  a  kind  of  gallery  in 
the  chapel,  communicating  with  their 
various  apartments  in  the  palace,  and 
situated  immediately  opposite  the 
screen  or  Ikonostas. 

The  walls  and  floors  of  the  palaco 
are  exceedingly  richly  decorated  :  the 
former  are  either  simjde  white  and 
gold,  or  hung   Y*'ith  rich  silks;   the 


latter  parquetted  in  the  most  graceful 
designs  and  tender  colours,  and  still 
as  fresh  as  when  first  laid  down.  One 
of  the  most  elegant  rooms  is  that 
railed  the  Lapis-lazuli,  ornamented 
with  encrustations  of  that  stone.  The 
floor  of  this  apart nient  is  of  ebony 
inlaid  with  large  flowers  of  mother- 
of-pearl,  forming  one  of  the  most 
si)lendid  contrasts  possible.  The  room 
itself  is  not  very  large,  but  the  effect 
is  lieautiful.  Catherine  has  been  fre- 
quently accused  of  Vandalism  in 
having  the  pictures  in  this  room  cut 
so  as  to  fit  the  walls.  The  wall  is 
certainly  covered  with  pictures  without 
frames,  forming  a  complete  lining,  but 
their  proj)f)rtions  have  not  been  cur- 
tailed. The  wonder  of  this  palace  is 
tlie  famous  AmlxT  Room,  the  walls  of 
which  are  literally  panelled  with  that 
material  in  various  architectural  de- 
1  signs,  the  arms  of  Frederick  the  Great, 
'  by  whom  the  amber  was  presented  to 
Catherine  II.,  being  moulded  in  dif- 
\  ferent  compartments  with  the  imperial 
'  cipher,  the  Russian  E  for  Ekaterina. 
Accustomed  to  see  only  small  pieces  of 
this  beautiful  substance,  one  can  hardly 
believe  that  the  large  rough  fragments 
projecting  from  the  walls  are  really 
ami)er ;  they  are  of  a  pale  yellow, 
and  in  several  places  form  groui)S  of 
figures  with  frames  eompo.'^'.ed  of  larger 
portions. 

The  bed-chainlxir  of  Catherine  is 
adorned  with  walls  of  porcelain  and 
pillars  of  purple  glass. 

In  the  banqueting-room  the  entire 
walls  to  the  height  of  about  i)  ft.  are 
covered  with  gold,  with  which  the  ceil- 
ings of  almost  all  the  state  apartments 
aro  lavishly  covered.  The  Chinese 
room  is  remarkable  for  the  taste  with 
which  everything  is  arranged  after  the 
fantastic  fa^jhion  of  the  Celestial  Em- 
pire. Two  grand  ball-rooms  are  also 
conspicuous,  the  upper  end  of  each 
being  occupied  by  a  collection  of  the 
most  splendid  china  vases  placed  on 
circular  tiers  up  to  the  ceiling,  and 
marked  with  the  Imperial  E.  The 
whole  palace,  in  fact,  breathes  recol- 
lections of  the  great  Catherine;  and 
here  are  to  be  seen  her  private  apart- 
ments, and  the'  gentle  descent  leading 


into  the  garden  by  which  she  was 
wheeled  up  and  down,  when  infirmity 
had  deprived  her  of  the  use  of  her 
limbs. 

The  apartments  of  Alexander  I. 
have  been  kept  exactly  as  he  left  them 
when  he  started  for  Taganrog.  His 
study  was  a  small  light  room  with 
scagiiola  walls.  Beyond  this  was  his 
simple  bed-room  with  a  slight  camp 
bedstead  in  an  alcove.  On  one  side 
is  a  small  table  with  a  little  grecni 
morocco  looking-glass,  his  simple 
English  shaving  apparatus,  his  brushes, 
combs,  and  a  pocket  -  handkerchief 
marked  Z.  23. 

The  Alexander  Palace  was  built  by 
Catherine  for  her  grandson  Alexander 
I.  It  is  of  a  simple,  yet  lofty  style. 
The  only  objects  on  the  plain  walls  of 
the  great  drawing-room  are  a  small 
print  of  Admiral  Sir  Edward  CVnlring- 
toii,  and  the  busts  of  seven  Imperial 
children  in  infantine  beauty.  The 
P^mperor's  own  room,  in  point  of  heavy 
writing-tables  and  bureaux,  is  that  of 
a  man  of  business,  but  the  military 
tastes  of  Nicholas  are  apparent  in  the 
glass  cases  containing  models  of  the 
different  cavalry  regiments,  executed, 
man  and  horse,  with  the  greatest 
beauty  and  accuracy.  Paintings  of 
military  maiueuvres  and  stiff  squares 
of  soldiers  are  also  dispersed  through 
the  apartments. 

Tlie  Arsenal,  a  recent  red  brick  erec- 
tion in  English  Gothic,  is  a  most  pic- 
turesque object  ill  the  noble  gardens 
of  the  palace.  For  several  generations 
the  Russian  sovereigns  have  amassed 
a  collection  of  armour  and  curious 
antique  instruments.  These  were  in- 
creased in  the  reign  of  the  Emperor 
Nicholas,  who  erected  this  building 
purposely  for  their  reception,  and  in- 
trusted their  classification  and  arrange- 
ment to  an  Englishman. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  enumerate 
the  objects  here  preserved,  consisting 
chiefly  of  ancient  armour,  weapons, 
and  accoutrements  of  every  descrip- 
tion, for  man  and  horse,  from  every 
warlike  nation,  both  Christian  and 
Pagan.    Figures  in  armour  guard  the 


154 


Itontc  1. — St.  Pctcrshurg  :  Tsarslcoe  Selo.  Sect.  I. 


Eussia.      Boute  1. — St.  Petersburg :  PulJcova  Observatory, 


155 


eiitranoe  and  lead  the  eye  along  the 
winduij^  staircase,  whence  a  lofty  cir- 
cular vaulted  hall  is  entered,  with  oak 
flooring,  and  walls  hung  round  with 
carbines,  lances,  &c.,  in  fanciful  de- 
vices, and  where,  placed  on  high  pedes- 
tals in  a  circle  round  the  room,  are  8 
djuestrian  figures  in  full  accoutrements 
and  as  large  as  life,  like  the  kings  in 
the  Tower  of  London.  Between  these 
the  visitor  passes  on  to  various  little 
alcoves  or  oratories  with  groined  ceiling 
and  stained  window,  wliosc;  light  falls 
oil  the  gorgeously  wrouglit  silver  cross 
or  precious  missal  of  some  early  pope, 
or  on  the  diamond-and- pearl- woven 
trappings  of  Turkish  luxury ;  or  on 
the  hunting-horn,  with  ivory  liandle  of 
exquisitely  carve<l  figures,  of  some 
doughty  German  Markgraf  of  the  olden 
time;  or  on  the  jousting  instruments 
and  otlier  playthings  of  the  Amazons 
of  Catherine  II. 's  court. 

In  a  glass  case  in  the  arsenal  are 
preserved  the  small  silver  drum  and 
trumpet  given  by  Catherine  to  the 
Emperor  Paul  in  his  cliildhood,  and 
beside  them  is  the  autograph  letter 
of  I3essieres  to  Davoust,  Governor  of 
Moscow,  ordering  him  to  evacuate  tlie 
city. 

In  a  recess  are  placed  2  sets  of  horse- 
trappings  i)rescinted  by  the  Sultan  to 
the  Emperor — the  first  on  concluding 
the  peace  of  Adrianople,  when  the 
"yellow-haired  Giaours"  passed  vic- 
toriously the  mountain  barrier  of  the 
Balkan,  and  were  well  nigh  at  the 
gates  of  his  capital.  This  saddle  is 
superb,  with  its  trappings  of  purple 
velvet  studded  with  diamonds,  and  its 
stirrups  of  gold ;  but  the  other  makes 
its  glories  dim  when  seen  together. 
This  was  given  when  the  Porte  sued 
as  a  suppliant  to  Russia  for  an  auxi- 
liary force  to  defend  a  tottering  throne 
against  a  rebellious  vassal,  after  the 
fatal  field  of  Konieh  had  witnessed  the 
overthrow  of  the  only  anuy  the  Sultjxn 
possessed.  The  diamonds  on  the  pistol 
holsters  of  this  saddle  are  of  unusual 
size,  and  their  brightness  perfectly 
dazzling,  while  every  part  of  the 
saddle  and  bridle  is  actually  covered 
with  )>rilliants.  Several  swords,  stud- 
ded with  diamonds,  are  also  preserved 


here ;  for  the  most  part  presents  from 
various  sovereigns  to  the  present  Em- 
peror. 

But  this  arsenal  would  require  a 
volume  to  itself,  and  oilers  inexhaust- 
ible interest  to  the  artist  in  min«l, 
and  a  very  treasury  of  beautiful  sub- 
jects to  the  artist  in  profession.  They 
are  minuUly  described  in  a  French 
catalogue  which  may  be  purehascxl 
at  the  door.  Visitors  shouhl  ask  to  see 
the  Polish  standards,  weapons,  and 
uniforms,  taken  in  the  insurrection  of 
18G3,  which  are  kejtt  in  an  upper 
chamber  of  the  Arsenal. 

Hie  grounds  around  the  palace  are 
18  m.  in  circumference,  and  contiiiu 
plenty  of  larch,  oak,  and  elm,  which 
seem  to  flourish  ;  the  gardens  arc  cer- 
taiidy  the  most  carefully  ke])t  in  the 
world  ;  the  trees  and  flowers  are 
watched  and  inspected  with  the  most 
anxious  minuteness. 

The  odd  ca]>rices  exhibited  in  the 
decoration  of  the  grounds  are  really 
extraordinary,  and  so  numerous  that 
it  would  be  ditlicult  to  enumerate  them 
all.  In  one  corner  is  the  tower  of  an 
ornamental  building  of  several  stories, 
where  Alexander  II.  resided  with  his 
tutor,  when  heir  apparent ;  in  anotlier 
are  the  baby -houses  of  the  young  Grand 
Duchesses,  where  they  carried  on  a 
mimic  menage.  In  front  of  a  Chinese 
tower  is  a  high  pole,  rigged  like  the 
mast  of  a  frigat(\  On  one  of  the  ponds 
is  a  fleet  of  pigmy  vessels,  intc'uded 
to  amuse  tlie  Grand  Duke  Constanthie, 
now  High  Admiral,  in  his  professional 
studies.  In  addition  to  all  these 
strange  objects  are  a  theatre,  a  Chinese 
village,  a  Dutch  and  Swiss  cow-house, 
a  Turkish  kiosk,  a  summer-house  in 
the  form  of  an  Ionic  colonnade  suj)- 
])orting  an  aerial  garden,  planted  with 
flowers,  a  Gothic  building  called  the 
Admiralty,  a  marble  bridge  with  Corin- 
thian columns  of  polished  marble,  also 
rostral  pillars  and  bronze  statues,  which 
Catherine  erected  to  her  favourites; 
amongst  these  is  a  column  to  Orloff. 
There  are  likewise  some  commemora- 
tive monuments  raised  by  Alexander  I. 
1o  his  "companions  in  arms,"  inter- 
mingled with  fields  of  roses,  hermit- 


rr 


\ 


ages,   artificial   ruins,  Roman  tombs, 
grottoes,  and  waterfalls. 

One  of  the  prettiest  spots  in  Ihe 
gardens  is  a  Pavilion  at  the  end  of  a 
small  lake  where  the  Grand  Duchess 
Alexandrina,  the  amiable  daughter  of 
Nicholas,  used  to  feed  her  swans,  re- 
placed since  her  premature  death  by 
black  ones.  Her  jjicture  hangs  there 
with  one  of  her  sayings  under  it:  "  Je 
sais,  pai)a,  que  vous  n'avez  pas  de  plus 
grand  i)laisir  ({ue  d'en  fairea  maman." 
Her  full-length  marble  figure,  with  a 
child  in  her  arms,  stands  in  an  alcove, 
surrounded  bv  a  handsome  railin'^ 
The  celebrated  Statue  of  our  Saviour 
by  Danneker  is  shown  in  the  artificial 
ruin  of  a  castle  in  the  park. 

From  Tsar.>;k(Xi  the  traveller  is  re- 
commended to  drive  to  PavJofsk,  3  m. 
beyond,  in  the  carriage  which  conveyed 
liini  to  the  several  sights ;  returning 
to  St.  I*etersburg  by  rail.  Pavlofsk 
was  built  in  1780  and  restored  in  J  803. 
The  gardens  are  very  extensive  and 
'  well  laid  out  over  the  most  picturesque 
accidents  of  country.  They  are  full  of 
clialets,  pavilions,  temples,  and  mor- 
tuary chapels.  The  palace  is  of  very 
simple  architecture,  and  behmgs  to  the 
(J rand  Duke  Constantine.  A  short 
walk  in  the  grounds  will  aflbrd  all  the 
])leasure  and  information  that  are  to  be 
derived  from  a  visit,  not  forgetting,  of 
course,  the  excellent  orchestra  which 
jdays  daily  at  the  Rly.  Stat,  or  Vaux- 
hall,  where  tourists  may  dine  or  take 
ttni  after  their  long  excursion. 

4. — Pulhova  Ohservatorij. — This  ex- 
cursion may  be  made  by  road  from 
St.  Petersburg  (20  v.),  or  by  taking 
the  train  l)y  the  Tsarskoe'  Selo  or 
the  Warsaw  line  to  Tsarskoe'  Selo, 
aud  driving  thence  to  the  Observatory, 
^yhich  is  open  to  visitors  on  Mondays, 
Thursdays,  and  Saturdays  from  11  a.m. 
to  2  P.M.  Admission  in  the  evening 
only  by  express  permission  of  the 
Director. 

The  Inq)erial  (Observatory  of  Pid- 
kova  was  founded  in  1838,  by  the 
Emj)eror  Nicholas,  on  a  scale  of  great 
magnificence.  The  splendid  in.stru- 
iiients  which  it  contains  weri'  purchased 
from  the  best  makers  in  Europe  for 


about  38,000Z.,  while  the  cost  of  con- 
struction exceeded  300,000?.  It  stands 
on  a  considerable  eminence,  isolated 
from  other  buildings  within  a  circum- 
ference of  about  a  mile.  Since  its 
foundation  the  Observatory  has  made 
many  important  contributions  to  the 
science  of  Astronomy ;  the  name  of 
Struve,  father  and  son.  Directors  of  the 
Observatory,  are  too  well  known  in 
Europe  fo  need  any  comment  here. 
Struve's  measurement  of  the  arc  of 
the  meridian  between  the  Danube  and 
the  Polar  Sea  was  one  of  the  greatest 
achievements  of  astronomical  science. 
Another  measurement,  equally  well 
known,  was  made  subsequently  be- 
tween Valencia  in  Ireland  and  Orsk 
in  Siberia,  comprising  52  degrees  of 
latitude. 

All  these  works  were  executed  by 
officers  of  the  Imperial  Etat  Major  and 
by  the  corps  of  Topographers  edu- 
cated at  St.  Petersburg.  Within  the 
last  25  years  the  learned  Directors  of 
the  Observatory  and  their  coadjutors 
have  published  nearly  200  works  on 
Astronomy  and  Geodesy.  The  State 
contributes  a  sum  of  about  5000?.  for 
the  support  of  the  establishment. 

5.  For  excursion  to  Gatchina  Palace, 
see  route  from  Frontier  to  St.  Peters- 
burg. 

G.  To  ScJiliisselburg  and  Lake  Ixidoga. 
— Smalt  steamers  leave  several  times  a 
day  from  a  stage  op]iosite  the  Summer 
Garden,  for  Schliisselburg.  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Neva,  in  Lake  Ladoga,  a  dis- 
tance of  40  m.,  which  is  made  in  4  to 
5  hours.  This  trip,  affords  an  oppor- 
tunity of  viewing  the  extensive  manu- 
factories, works,  and  building-slips, 
established  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
most  of  which  are  under  the  manage- 
ment of  English  mechanics.  At  a 
place  called  Alexandrofuki  is  a  large 
steam  factory.  The  works  are  sur- 
rounded by  a  very  large  village,  com- 
posed of  the  dwellings  of  the  artizans 
and  their  masters.  About  1  m.  further 
on  are  the  Imperial  Porcelain  Worl:s 
where  the  ceramic  art  has  been  fos- 
tered since  the  days  of  Catherine  II. 
A  great  perfection  has  been  attained 

I  3 


156 


Boute  1. — St.  Fetershurg  :  ScJihisscIhurg. 


Sect.  I. 


Knssia. 


Itoiife  2.— Boute  3. 


157 


licTC  in  the  manufacture  and  ornamen- 
tation of  china.  Some  splendid  vases 
are  exhibited,  and  many  exquisitely 
modelled  ligures  of  hisruH.  An  ex- 
cursion to  these  works  alone  miLcht  be 
profitably  undertaken.  Tlie  lonij:  lino 
of  cottages  beyond  arc  occupied  by  a 
po})ulation  engaged  in  the  maiuifac- 
tun'  of  porcelain,  which  is  all  stamped 
in  blue  with  the  Russian  initial  of  the 
reigning  sovereign,  snrmonute.l  by  an 
Imix^rial  Crown.  The  Alezandrofxhi 
3[anufactory,\\ng:hcT  up  the  river,  was 
once  a  thriving  place,  under  the  super- 
intendcnco  of  our  countryman,  Gene- 
ral Wilson,  where  numerous  English 
cotton-spinners,  weavers,  and  otlier  me- 
chanicsobtained  lucrative  emi)loyment. 
TlieCiovernment  have  now  abandoned 
the  manufacture  of  cotton  and  linen 
fabrics,  and  the  principal  buildings 
are  occupied  by  a  Russian  Iron-works 
Company.  Higher  up,  after  passing 
the  large  German  colony  of  i^ardfof. 
the  banks  of  the  river  become  prettily 
wooded.  Many  country  seats,  once 
of  great  splendour,  occur  at  intervals. 
The  picturesque  ruins  of  an  old  castle, 
called  Fella,  will  be  seen  at  the  rapids 
of  the  Neva,  17  m.  from  St.  Petersburg. 

SrhliisseUmrg  is  a  fortress  on  an 
island  at  the  source  of  the  Neva.  It 
belonged  anciently  to  Novgorod  the 
(ireat.  In  1324  George,  Prince  of 
Moscow  and  Novgorod,  raised  a  fort 
on  it  during  an  expedition  against 
Wyborg,  and  a  trade  with  Revel  soon 
sprang  up.  The  Lithuanians  then  took 
it,  but  were  driven  out  by  Magnus 
King  of  Sweden,  a.d.  1347.  Tlu; 
Novgorodians  retook  it  in  1352,  and 
raised  a  stone  wall  round  the  island. 
From  that  date  to  its  final  occupation 
by  Peter  the  Great  in  1702,  Schliis- 
selburg,  or,  as  it  was  called  by  the 
Swedes,  Ntiteborg,  remained  a  fruitful 
subject  of  contention  between  the  two 
countries.  The  fortress  has  often  served 
as  a  state  prison.  John  VI.  met  with  his 
death  in  it.  The  town  of  Schliisselburg, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Neva,  has 
4000  Inhab.,  engaged  in  navigating 
tlie  Ladoga  Lake  and  the  famous  canal 
which  forms  part  of  the  iluviatile 
system  connecting  the  Baltic  with  the 


Caspian.  Tourista  should  inspect 
the  locks,  and  after  strolling  a  little 
in  the  country  return  to  St.  Petersburg 
by  the  boat  that  brought  them,  nnil 
which  will  tako  them  down  the  rajjid 
current  of  tlie  Neva  in  less  than  2 
hours.  (For  description  of  country 
beyond  Lake  Ladoga,  vide  Rte.  3). 

7.  The  Monaster]!  of  Walaam,  on 
Lake  Ladoga,  should  also  be  visited  if 
tlie  traveller  have  sufficient  time,  par- 
ticularly between  the  27th  and  oOth 
JnneO.S.,  when  an  annual  fair  is  hcM 
there.     Steamers  ply  regularly. 

This  mona.stery  is  reputed  to  have 
been  founded  between  a.d.  073  and 
9S0,  before  the  introduction  of  Chris- 
tianity into  Russia,  l>ut  it  is  disputed 
whether  the  2  Greek  monks  who  lio 
buried  at  Walaam,  Sergius  and  Ger- 
manicus,  flourished  in  the  10th  or  in 
the  14th  centy.  In  the  12th  centy., 
and  in  1577  and  IGIO,  the  jdacc'  suf- 
fered much  from  the  inroads  of  the 
Swedes,  who  crossed  over  from  Serdo- 
bol,  on  the  mainland  of  Finland,  40  v. 
distant,  where  an  excellent  dark  gra- 
nit(!  is  now  quarried.  The  monastery 
was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1754,  and  re- 
stored to  its  present  condition  in  1785. 
There  are  5  chs.  within  it,  and  in  one 
of  these  (the  Cath.)  lie  the  remains  of 
the  two  (lireek  monks  in  hantlsomo 
shrines  of  silver. 

The  situation  of  the  monastery  is 
very  picturesque,  and  the  island  on 
which  it  stands  is  divided  by  a  pretty 
rivulet.  The  traveller  will  visit  with 
interest  the  many  cells  and  subter- 
anean  caverns  in  which  the  more 
pious  monks  pass  their  lives  in  great 
austerity. 

In  1819  the  Emperor  Alexander 
passed  two  days  in  prayer  and  fasting 
at  this  monastery. 

Tolerable  accommodation  will  be 
found,  although,  by  the  exercise  of  a 
small  amount  of  in'teiest,  the  traveller 
will  probably  be  able  to  induce  tlui 
captain  of  the  steamer  to  allow  him  to 
jjass  a  night  on  board,  which  will  be 
found  preferable. 


ROUTE  2. 

LONDON  TO  ST.  PETERSBURG,  BY  SEA, 
VIA  CRONSTADT. 

This  route  is  cheaper  than  the  over- 
land j<  (urney.  Steamers  ply  constantly 
to  Cr'onstadt  and  St.  Petersburg  from 
London,  Hull,  and  LeitU. 

The  London  steamers  charge  about 
G/.,  exclusive  of  provisions  (about  08. 
per  day),  and  make  the  voyage  gene- 
rally in  0  or  7  days. 

The  most  popular  Hull  boat  is  the 
Emperor  paddle-steamer.  Fares  :  1st 
cabin,  5/.  56'.;  second  cabin,  3/.  3^.  Pro- 
visions G«.  a  day.  Voyages  performed 
in  5  or  6  days. 

Steamers  leave  Leitli  fortnightly  for 
St.  Petersburg.  Fare  Gl.  Provisions, 
G«.  a  day.    Voyage  5  to  6  days. 

All  these  steamers  stop  at  Copen- 
hagen. Some  of  them  proceed  direct 
to  St.  Petersburg ;  others  stop  at  Cron- 
stadt,  and  forward  their  passengers  by 
river  l)oat  or  by  rail  via  Oranienbaum. 
Travellers  wishing  to  avoid  the  land 
journey  from  Berlin  may  embark  at 
Lubeck  or  Stettin  for  St.  Petersburg, 
which  may  also  be  reached  by  way  of 
Riga,  Stockholm,  and  Finland,  for 
which  see  Rte.  4,  and  "  Finland."  The 
best  months  for  the  Baltic  are  June, 
July,  and  August. 

(For  description  of  Cronstadt  vide 
Etc.  1.) 


ROUTE  3.  •        ' 

LONDON  TO  ST.  PETERSBURG,   VIA  ARCH- 
ANGEL. 

Steamers  loading  for  Archangel,  and 
having  accommodation  for  passengers, 
may  be  found  in  London  and  in  the 
North  between  the  months  of  May  and 
Augu.st.  An  earlier  or  later  voyage 
should  alike  be  avoided.  The  usual 
fare  is  G^  first  class,  and  a  charge  of 
Qs.  to  Is.  per  diem  for  provisions  during 
a  voyage  that  lasts  7  or  8  days  under 
favourable  circumstances. 

This  route  should  not  be  under- 
taken except  by  those  who  are  pre- 
})ared  to  brave  the  difficulty  and  dis- 
comfort of  posting  750  miles,  the 
distance  between  Archangel  and  St. 
Petersburg.  Its  choice  can  only  be 
justified  by  a  desire  to  cross  the  White 
Sea,  or  to  visit  the  interesting  monas- 
tery of  Solovetsk,  situated  on  an  is- 
land about  150  miles  from  Arch- 
angel, a  town  which,  however,  pos- 
sesses a  certain  amount  of  interest  to 
the  British  traveller  from  its  having 
been  the  "cradle"  of  the  trade  be- 
tween Great  Britain  and  Russia.  (For 
description  of  Early  Intercourse  with 
Russia  at  Archangel,  vide  Rte.  1 — 
'•  Russia  Company.") 


ARaiANGEL. 

Hotels. — There  are  no  hotels  properly 
so  called  at  Archangel,  but  accommo- 
dation will  be  found  in  the  ordinary 
hostelries  of  the  country,  described 
under  "  Posting," 

History  of  Archanqel.—Poix  20,000. 
Lat.  G4°  33'  N.  1104  versts  from  St. 
Petersburg,  and  120G  versts  N.  of 
IMoscow,  on  right  bank  of  Northern 
Dvina. 


158 


Boiife  3. — Archangel. 


Sect.  I. 


Russia. 


Boute  3. — SlovetsJ:  Monastery, 


159 


The  history  of  the  town  is  traced 
buck  to  the  12th  centy.,  when  John, 
Archbishop  of  Novgorod  the  Great, 
founded  a  monastery  on  the  coast  of  the 
AVhite  Hea.     In    1419  the  Northnieii 
made  a  (U'scent  on  that  part  of  the  coabt, 
destroyed    the    churches    wliich    bc- 
lon<,'ed  to  the  monasteries  of  St.  Ni- 
chohis  and  St.  Micliael,  then  ahvady 
existing,  and  put  to  death  the  monks. 
It  was  at  the  former  monastery  that 
Sir    Richard    Chancellor    landrd    in 
1553,  as  related  in  the  history  of  tlie 
early  intercourse  of  Great  Britain  with 
Ilussia.      A   wall    was    subsequently 
built    round    the    monastery    of   St. 
Michael,  and  in  1584  the  town  which 
had  sprung  up  within  the  enclosure 
began    to   be    officially   named    New 
Holmogory.      In  1G37  the   town  and 
the  monastery  were  destroyed  by  lire, 
when  the  monks  removed  their  shrines 
to  a  place  then  called  Niachery,  where 
tiiey   still   remain.     A   church,   dedi- 
cated to  the  Archangel  ^lichael,  marks 
the    spot   where    the   old    monastery 
st(WKl.     Fires  devastated  the  town  in 
1637,  1007,  and  1078.     In  the  latter 
year  two  foreign  "  builders  of  towns," 
Peter  Marselin  and  William   Scharf, 
built  a  new  fortress  or  wall  of  stcMie, 
which   was  divided  into  tliree  parts. 
The     upper    part    being    called    the 
♦' lUissian,"  and  the  lower  the  "Ger- 
man"  (or   foreign)  enclosiure.     Peter 
the  Great  visited  Archangel  in   1093, 
and   foinided   a   naval  wharf  on   the 
island   of   Solombt)la,  connected  with 
Archangel  by  a  floating  bridge,  and 
which  he   peopled  with  seamen   and 
artizans,    while    on    a     neighbouring 
island,  called  after  Moses,  lie  built  a 
summer  residence,  which  can  still  be 
seen.     In  1701  Peter  founded  the  for- 
tress of  Novodvinsk,  18  v.  from  Arch- 
angel, on   the  Berezof  branch  of  tlie 
Dvina.     The  town  was   again  burnt 
down  seven  times  between  the  years 
1724  and  1793.    lluins  of  the  old  st(jne 
wall  are  alone  to   be  found,  but  the 
*'  Russian     court,"    or     enclosure,    is 
partly  extant.     The  custom-house  and 
harbour-master's  othces  are  contained 
within    it.      Two   walls,    very   much 
crumbled,  mark  the  limits  of  the  old 
enclosure   for  foreigners.     Archangel 


wns  made  the  seat  of  provincial  go- 
vernment in  1702,  the  voevodes  or 
governors  having  previously  resided 
at  Holmogory,  now  a  district  town, 
71  V.  from  Archangel,  and  celebrate*l 
for  its  tine  cattle. 

On  the  principal  sipiare  arc  the 
cathedral,  the  churches  of  the  Arch- 
angel and  of  the  Resurrection,  the 
courts  of  law,  &c. ;  and  a  monuiuent 
to  I.omonosof,  the  poet  tisherman  f)f 
Archangel,  erected  in  1838.  On  this 
square  formerly  st(X)d  the  houses  of 
the  early  English  merchants.  The 
Archiepiscopal  Palace,  built  in  1784, 
is  one  of  the  oldest  houses  in  Arch- 
angel. Travellers  may  visit  the  old 
monastery,  from  which  the  town  takes 
its  name,  and  which  was  removed  to 
its  i)resent  site,  2^  v.  from  Archangel, 
in  1037.  It  contains  2  stone  chs.,  of 
which  one  was  built  in  1085  and  the 
other  in  1705. 

The  port  is  visited  annually  by 
al)out  800  vessels,  of  wliieh  nearly 
200  are  British.  Oats  and  other  grain, 
flax,  linseed,  tar,  timber,  and  l)lubber 
are  largely  exiMtrted  (value  about  one 
million  sterling);  but  tlu^  import  trade 
is  very  limited. 

An  English  cli.  and  a  chapel-of- 
ease,  where  divine  service  is  })erformed 
during  the  months  of  summer,  are 
still  maintained  for  the  benetit  of  the 
shipping  and  of  the  English  com- 
munity, now  reduced  to  very  h-w 
members.  A  British  consul  likewise 
resides  at  Archangel. 


1.  Excursion  to  Solocelsh  Monastery. 

A  steamer  proceeds  twice  a  week  to 
the  monastery  of  Solovetsk,  one  of  the 
holiest  i)laces  in  Russia,  foun<led  in 
1429  by  Saint  Sal)batheus,  a.ssisted  by 
Germanicus  and  Zosimns,  two  holy 
monks.  Zosimus  having  been  made 
abbot  in  1442,  the  monastery  began  to 
grow  in  wealth  and  power.  The  Areh- 
liisliop  and  Possadnik  (governor)  of 
Novgorod  made  large  grants  of  land, 
while  the  inhabitants  of  that  ancient 
city  i)resented  the  monastery  with 
gold   and  silver  jjlale  and  rich  vcst- 


ments.     In  1405   the  relics  of    Sab 
batlieus  were  removed  from  their  place 
of   sepidchre    at   the    mouth  of   the 
river    Vyga,   and    deposited    in    the 
Oathedral     of     the     Transfiguration, 
where  St.  Zosimus  was  subsequently 
also  buried.     In  1485  and  1538   the 
monastery    and    its    churches    were 
destroyed  by   tire;    but   hi    1552  the 
tlien  Abbot  Philij)  (afterwards  Metro- 
l)olitan  of  Moscow)  began  to  rebuild 
the  churches  in  stone.     During  the 
reign  of  Theodore.  Ijetween  1590  and 
1594,  the  monks  built  at   their   own 
expense  a  wall  of  granite   boulders, 
■Nvith  towers  and  embrasures,  3  to  4 
fms.  high  and  3  fnis.  in  thickness,  and 
running  along  a  length  of  421  fms. 
In  1007  the  monks  refused  to  receive 
the  new  IxKjks  sent  by  the  Patriarch 
Nicon  (vide  descriptioii  of  the  "  New 
Jerusalem"),  and  broke  out  into  open 
rebellion    afti-r   ejecting  their   Archi- 
mandrite,   Joseph,    and    refusing    to 
listen  to  the  envoy  of  the  Tsar,   the 
Archimandrite    Sergius   of    Jaroslaf. 
But    the    leaders   of    the    disa fleeted 
monks,  having  been  carried  away  to 
IVIoscow,  the  remahider  of  tlie  brethren 
flew   to  arms,  and    shut    themselves 
up   within    their    walls.     The    rel>el- 
lion   lasted  nine  years.    After  many 
ineffectual   attacks    by    the    Streltzi, 
the  Voevode,  Prince  John  Mestcher- 
ski,  besieged  the  monastery   for  the 
space    of    two    years,    and    it    only 
fell   by  the  treachery   of  one   of  the 
monks,  who  disclosed  to  the  enemy  a 
subterranean    passage    on    the  22nd 
January,    1070.    when    many  of  the 
rebellious    monks    were    put    to  the 
sword.      A    large    number    of    them 
were  either    executed    later    or    sent 
into  exile.     The  remainder  were  kept 
in    awe    and    submission    during    a 
whole  year  by  300  Streltzi,  under  the 
command    of    Prince    Vladimir  Vol- 

kousky. 

In  the  IGth  and  17th  cents,  the 
Solovetsk  monastery  was  the  place  of 
banishment  or  retirement  of  many 
celebrated  men.  Sylvester,  the  monk, 
who  exercised  such  a  beneficial  hitlu- 
ence  over  the  earlier  days  of  John  tlui 
Terrible,  lies  buried  there,  togetlier 
with  Abraham  Palytsiu,  the  patriotic 


monk  who  roused  the  people  to  action 
during  the  Polish  occupation  of  Mos- 
cow.    Nicon,  subsequently  the  famous 
patriarch,  took  the  cowl  at  Solovetsk. 
Simon  Bekbulatovitch,  the  deposedTsar 
of  Kasan,  and  subsequently  the  friend 
of  his  conqueror,  John  the  Terrible, 
was  sent  here  in  disgrace  by  the  false 
Demetrius,   and  forced   to  bec<:)me   a 
monk,   circa  a.d.  1009.    He  was  re- 
moved in  1811  to  the  monastery  of  St. 
Cyril-BeLktzersk,   in  tlie  province  of 
Novgorod.      Peter  the   Great   visited 
Solovetsk  in  1094  and  1702,  on  the  last 
occasion  accompanied  by  his  ill-fated 
son   Alexis.    A    chapel    now   stands 
over  the  spot  where  he  landed,  while 
within   the    gates   will  be    seen   the 
models  of  the  two  vessels  in  which 
Peter  crossed  over.     One  of  these  was 
a  yacht  that  had  been  built  in  Eng- 
land. 

The  monks  will  point  with  pride  to 
the  unexploded  shells  which  were  fired 
from  the  Britisli  White  Sea  squad- 
ron in  1855.  They  were  summoned 
to  surrender  to  the  "squadron  of 
horse,"  as  the  interpreter  incorrectly 
put  it  to  them;  but  they  refused,  and 
their  only  gun  having  burst  and  killed 
their  only  artilleryman,  the  holy 
fat}iers  formed  themselves  in  proces- 
sion, and  walked  round  the  walls,  pre- 
ceded by  the  cross,  while  the  shells 
were  flying  over  their  heads.  An 
obelisk,  next  tiie  2  chapels,  commemo- 
rates these  proceedings. 


Churches.— This  celebrated  fortress- 
monastery    now   contains    G    chs. — 1. 
The  Cathedral  of  the  Transfiguration, 
built  of  wood  in  1438  by  Zosimus,  but 
rebuilt  of  stone  by  St.  Philip  in  1558, 
and  consecrated  1500.   It  has  5  altars, 
erected  contemporaneously,  dedicated 
as  follows :--a,  to  the  Archangel  Mi- 
chael ;  h,  to  Saints  Zosimus  and  Sab- 
batheus,  whose  relics  are  there  pre- 
served in    shrines    of    silver-gilt,   of 
which  the  covers,  weighing  IsO   lbs. 
avoird.  were   made  at  Amsterdam  in 
IGOO,  at  the  expense   of    the    Boyar 
Boris  Morosotf ;  c,  to  the  70  Apostles ; 
(I  to  the  12  Aix>stles  ;  e,  to  Theodore 
Stratilatus  ;  and  /,  to  St.  John  of  the 
Ladder.      The    body    of    St.    Philip, 


IGO 


Boute  3. — Kem. 


Sect.  I. 


Russia. 


Boute  3. — Onega — KargopoL 


161 


Metropolitan  of  Moscow,  having  been 
rcmovt'cl  from  the  Otrotch  monastery 
near  Tver,  where  the  exiled  metro- 
politan liad  been  i)ut  to  death  by  order 
<»t'  Jolm  the  Terrible,  was  originally 
bnried  under  the  porch  of  the  Cathe- 
dral of  the  Transfiguration,  ])ut  in 
1052  they  were  removed  to  the  Cathe- 
dral of  the  Assumption  at  Moscow.  A 
part  of  tlie  relics  of  the  saint  were, 
however,  left  in  the  monastery,  where 
they  lie  in  the  slirinc  which  was  made 
for  them  in  1(340.  Tlio  Ikonostas  was 
put  up  in  1(jU7,  l>y  order  of  Peter  tlie 
Gnat,  as  seen  from  an  inscription 
alM)ve  it.  Near  the  cathedral  are  two 
cliapels,  built  in  1751^,  and  contahiing 
th(»  tombs  of  Germanicus  and  of  other 
reverend  fatliers  of  local  repute.  2. 
Tile  Catiiedral  of  the  Assumption, 
built  of  stone,  together  with  a  refec- 
tory by  St.  Pliilip,  in  ir)r)2,  and  con- 
secrated by  him  in  1557  ;  in  the  u])per 
jtart  of  this  churcli  aro  two  altars 
wliich  were  restored  after  a  lire  tliat 
occurred  in  1717.  3.  The  Church 
of  Nicholas  Tliormaturgus,  built  of 
stone,  and  conseerated  about  1500. 
4.  The  Churcli  of  tlie  Annunciation, 
founded  1596,  consecrated  IGOl,  and 
restored  after  a  fire  in  1745.  5.  The 
Church  of  the  Metrojiolitan  riiilij), 
built  1087,  renovated  1798.  And  0. 
A  church  outside  the  wall  of  the 
monastery,  in  the  cemetery,  and  dedi- 
cated to  Onuphrius  the  Great ;  consc- 
crat(^d  1G07 ;  the  belfry,  constructed  in 
3777,  is  of  a  height  of  20  fms. 

The  Sacristy  is  one  of  the  richest  in 
Russia,  being  full  of  valuable  gifts 
made  ])y  various  sovereigns  and 
nobles.  Among  other  objects  of  great 
price  are  the  vestments,  covered  with 
pearls  of  unusual  size,  given  in  1550 
by  .7ohn  IV.  (Terrible),  and  a  gold 
cross  with  relics,  adorned  with  pearls 
and  previous  stones,  the  gift  of  the 
same  Tsar  in  1558;  a  silver  shrine, 
weighing  25  lbs.,  made  in  1700  ;  an- 
other shrine,  presented  by  the  Ciraiul 
DukeConstantine  in  1845,  and  a  large 
copy  of  the  Evangelists,  weighing 
about  18  lbs.,  in  a  binding  of  silver- 
gilt.  The,  following  other  treasures 
will  be  viewed  with  int(^rest : — 1.  The 
white  linen  chasuble  of  Zosimus,  pre- 


sented to  him  by  Archbisho}>  Jonas  of 
Novgorod,  and  in  which  St.  Philip  had 
said  mass;  this  veneral)le  garment  is 
still  worn  on  great  occasions  by  tlio 
Archimandrite  of  the  monastery ;  2. 
Tlie  Psalter  of  Zosimus,  mended  by 
St.  Philip,  and  an  image  of  the  Holy 
Virgin,  brought  to  Solovetsk  island  by 
Sabbatheus;  3.  The  armour  of  tho 
followers  of  Abraham  Palytsin,  who, 
thougii  a  monk,  was  one  of  the  most 
active  agents  in  the  war  that  termi- 
nated in  the  expulsion  of  the  Poles 
from  Moscow  in  1013;  4.  The  swords 
of  Prince  INIichael  Skopin-Shui.<ki,  and 
of  Prince  Pojarski,  presented  by  him- 
self, and  preserved  hi  a  scabbard  of 
silver-gilt,  and  studiU-d  with  jirecious 
stones — (for  the  hi.story  of  those 
princes,  vide  Historical  Notice) ;  5. 
Many  original  charters  of  the  Veche 
(or  Wittenegamote)  of  Novgorotl  and 
of  jNIartha  tln^  Possadnitsa,  or  elected 
governor  of  that  republic,  granting 
lands  to  the  monastery ;  and  0.  A 
large  collection  of  ancient  Russian 
and  otiier  weapons,  and  of  banners 
bearing  the  emblem  of  the  cross. 


Very  tolerable  accommodation  will 
be  found  at  the  monastery,  and  the 
traveller  who  comes  in-ovided  with  an 
introduction  to  the  archimandrite, 
easily  obtiuned  through  the  British 
residents  at  Archangel,  will  find  a 
stay  of  two  days  at  Solovetsk  INIonas- 
tery  both  pleasant  an<l  instructive. 


2.  Excursion  to  Kem, 

A  tourist  who  will  go  as  far  as 
Sfdovetsk  may  as  well  proceed  by  tho 
steamer  which  leaves  tho  monastery 
once  a  week  for  Kem,  an  interesting 
settlement  of  the  Staroveri  or  (Jld- 
ii'liever  sect,  who  i)ursue  the  avoca- 
tion of  fishermen,  and  t^)  whom  indeed 
the  greater  i)art  of  tiie  fishing  stjitiona 
and  ves.sels  in  the  White  Sea  l>elong. 

Kem.— Lat.  04'^  50'  N.  Pop.  1750. 
Distant  280  v.  by  sea  and  521  v.  by 
land  from  Archangel. 

This  t4jwn  is  very  prettily  situated 


on  the  river  Kem,  which  falls  into 
the  Whiter  Sea  on  its  W.  shore.  In 
the  15th  centy.  it  belonged  to  Martha, 
the  *•  Possadnitsa  "  of  Novgorod,  who 
in  1450  made  a  gift  of  it  to  the  Solo- 
vetsk monastery.  The  Finns  took  it 
in  1580,  when  the  VcK^vode  of  Solo- 
vetsk and  many  Streltsi  were  killed. 
In  1590  the  Swedes  took  possession 
of  the  entire  district.  A  w<Mxlen  for- 
tress, erected  in  1057  by  the  monks 
on  Lep  island  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kem,  was  destroyed  by  inundations 
tiiat  occurred  in  1749  and  1703. 

The  inhabitants  are  almost  exclu- 
sively occu})ied  in  summer  in  the 
herring  and  cod  fisheries,  the  women 
alone  remaining  in  possession  of  the 
town.  During  the  long  absence  of 
their  husbands,  however,  they  fre- 
quently maki'  jiilgrimages  to  the 
shrines  of  Solovetsk.  As  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  Kem  district  principally 
consist  of  Carels  and  Lopars  the 
traveller  will  have  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity of  studying  the  characteristics 
of  those  northern  races;  and  the 
excursion  might  he  made  still  more 
interesting  by  returning  via  Onega, 
and  ascendhig  the  Onega  river  to 
Karg(»pol,  instead  of  posting  to  the 
latter  town  from  Archangel. 


3.  Excursion  from  Kem  to  Onega. 

Should  the  steamer  not  touch  at 
Onega  on  her  return  from  Kem,  the 
traveller  can  proceetl  by  the  high  road 
to  Archangel,  the  distance  between 
Kem  and  Onega  being  289  v.,  and 
that  to  Archangel  from  Onega  232  v. 
more. 

Oneca  is  a  place  of  some  trade  par- 
ticularly in  timber.  An  English 
company  has  for  many  years  had  a 
concession  for  cutting  and  exporting 
timber  from  this  district^  The  com- 
pany has  3  8aw-mills — 2  on  the  river 
Ponga  and  one  on  the  Anda,  tribu- 
taries of  the  (hiega,  which  is  a  very 
fine  and  broad  stream,  400  v.  in 
length  from  Kargoi>ol,  in  the  vicmity 
of  which  town  it  takea  its  ris>c. 


The  town  is  supposed  to  have  been 
founded  in  the  15th  centy.,  but  its 
existence  can  only  be  authentically 
traced  back  to  the;  end  of  the  17th 
centy.  It  has  a  Pop.  of  2000,  and  2 
chs.  Here  the  traveller  will  hv  al>le 
to  get  advice  and  assistance  from  tho 
agents  of  the  English  Timber  Com- 
l)any,  who  will  gladly  put  him  on  his 
way  up  the  Onega  river,  the  rapids  of 
which, combined  with  very  fine  scenery, 
are  well  worthy  of  being  visited. 

It  is  almost  needless  to  say  that 
game  of  every  kind  abounds  through- 
out this  part  of  the  country,  but  tho 
proper  time  for  killing  it  is  of  course 
the  winter,  when  only  the  most  enthu- 
siastic sj>ortsman  would  venture  to 
carry  his  gun  so  far  and  to  such  a 
climate. 


Journey  to  St.  TctershurQ. 

Having  provided  himself  with  a 
rrxlorojna,  and  attended  strictly  to 
all  the  injunctions  of  his  countrymen 
at  Archangel,  who  will  most  willingly 
give  him  every  assistance  in  their 
l)ower,  the  traveller  bent  on  posting 
to  St.  Petersburg  must  resign  him- 
self to  the  jolting  of  a  tarantass  and 
the  rapid  driving  of  a  yamstchik.  A 
considerable  part  of  the  bad  road  (or 
150  V.)  may,  however,  be  avoided  by 
taking  advantage  of  a  steamer  which 
runs  regidarly  uj)  the  Dvina  to  Siya, 
the  7th  post  station  from  Archangel. 

Thirteen  stations  beyond  Siya,  or 
445  V.  from  Archangel,  is  the  town  of 

Kargopol,  where  the  traveller  will 
rest. 

As  regards  Hotels,  tho  general  rule 
in  Russia  applies : — There  are  none 
at  Kargopol;  but  the  traveller  will 
find  a  night's  lodging  at  tho  jwst 
station. 

Jlistory  of  the  Toivn.  Situated  in 
Lat.  or  30"  N.,  in  province  of  Olonetz, 
on  left  bank  of  Onega  River.  Pop. 
2000. 

Kargopol  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
colonies  in  the  N.  of  Russia,  but  the 
first  authentic  mention  of  the  town 
occurs  in  1447,  when  Prince  Dmitry 


.'<%rvp" 


rwv 


>V*I^ 


'iV'VvVv 


\Kr;'.%]\i..> 


■^Q^^r^^^ 


IGO 


Boute  3. — Rem. 


Sect.  I. 


Metropolitan  of  Moscow,  having  been 
removeil  from  the  Otrotcli  monastery 
n(>ftr  Tver,  where  the  exiled  metro- 
politan liad  been  put  to  death  by  order 
of  Jolm  the  Terribh',  was  originally 
buried  under  the  poreli  of  the  Cathe- 
dral of  tlie  Transfiguration,  ])ut  in 
1G02  tliey  were  removed  to  the  Cathe- 
dral of  the  Assumption  at  Moscow.  A 
part  of  the  relics  of  tlio  saint  were, 
iKAvevin-,  left  in  the  monastery,  where 
tliey  lie  in  the  shrine  which  was  made 
for  them  in  1G4G.  The  Ikonostas  was 
put  up  in  1G97,  by  order  of  Peter  the 
Great,  as  seen  from  an  inscripti(»n 
abov(^  it.  Near  tlie  catlu drnl  arr  two 
chapels,  built  in  ll^)'.\  and  containing 
the  tombs  of  Germanicus  and  of  other 
reverend  fatliers  of  local  repute.  2. 
The  Cathedral  of  tli(>  Assumption, 
built  of  stone,  together  witli  a  refec- 
tory by  St.  Philip,  in  1552,  and  con- 
secrated by  him  in  1557  ;  in  the  upper 
l)art  of  this  cliurcli  aro  two  altars 
whicli  were  restored  after  a  iire  tliat 
occurred  in  1717.  3.  Tlie  Cliurch 
of  Nicholas  Tliormaturgus,  built  of 
stone,  and  consecrated  about  1590. 
4.  The  Cliurcli  of  the  Annunciation, 
founded  15UG,  consecrated  IGUl,  and 
restored  after  a  tire  in  1745.  5.  The 
Church  of  the  Metrojiolitan  Philip, 
built  1G87,  renovated  1798.  And  G. 
A  church  outside  the  wall  of  the 
monastery,  in  the  cemetery,  and  dedi- 
cated to  Onuphrius  the  Great;  conse- 
crated 1GG7 ;  the  belfry,  constructed  in 
1777,  is  of  a  height  of*20  fms. 

The  Sacristy  is  one  of  the  richest  in 
Russia,  being  full  of  valuable  gifts 
made  by  various  sovereigns  and 
nobles.  Among  other  objects  of  great 
price  are  the  vestments,  covered  with 
pearls  of  unusual  size,  given  in  1550 
by  John  IV.  (Terrible),  and  a  gold 
cross  with  relics,  adorned  with  pearls 
and  precious  stones,  the  gift  of  the 
sumo  Tsar  in  1558 ;  a  silver  slirine, 
weighing  25  lbs.,  made  in  17GG ;  an- 
other shrine,  presented  by  the  Grand 
Duke  Constantino  in  1845,  and  a  large 
copy  of  the  Evangelists,  weighing 
a])out  18  lbs.,  in  a  binding  of  silver- 
gilt.  The  following  other  treasures 
will  be  viewed  with  interest : — 1.  The 
white  linen  chasuble  of  Zosimus,  pre- 


sented to  him  by  Archl)ishop  Jonas  of 
Novgorod,  and  in  which  St.  Philip  had 
said  mass;  this  venerable  garment  is 
still  worn  on  great  occasions  l)y  the 
Arcliimandrite  of  the  monastery ;  2. 
The  Psalter  of  Zosimus,  mended  by 
St.  Philii),  and  an  image  of  the  Holy 
Virgin,  brought  to  Solovetsk  ishmdby 
Sabbatheus;  3.  The  armour  of  tho 
followers  of  Aliraham  Palytsin,  who, 
thougii  a  monk,  was  one  of  the  most 
active  agents  in  the  war  that  termi- 
nated in  the  exi)ulsion  of  the  Poles 
from  Moscow  in  1G13;  4.  The  swords 
of  Prince  INIichael  Skopin-Shuiski,  and 
of  Prince  Pojarski,  ju'esented  by  him- 
self, and  iireserved  in  a  scal)l)ard  of 
silver-gilt,  and  studded  with  precious 
stones — (for  the  history  of  those 
j)rinces,  ri^le  Historical  Notice) ;  5. 
Many  original  charters  of  the  Veclid 
(or  Wittenegamote)  of  Novgor(jd  and 
of  3Iartha  tlie  Possadnitsa,  or  elected 
governor  of  that  rei)ublic,  granting 
lands  to  the  monasU-ry ;  and  G.  A 
large  collection  of  ancient  Russian 
and  other  weapons,  ami  of  banners 
bearing  the  emblem  of  the  cross. 


Very  tolerable  accommodation  will 
be  found  at  the  monastery,  and  the 
traveller  who  comes  provided  with  an 
introduction  to  the  archimandrite, 
easilv  obtained  throuirh  the  British 
residents  at  Archangel,  will  iind  a 
stay  of  two  days  at  Solovetsk  INlonas- 
tery  both  pleasant  and  instructive. 


2.  Excursion  to  Kem. 

A  tourist  who  will  go  as  far  as 
Solovetsk  may  as  well  pnx-eed  by  the 
steamer  which  leaves  the  monastery 
once  a  week  for  Kem,  an  interesting 
settlement  of  the  Staroveri  or  01(1- 
Peliever  sect,  who  pursue  the  avoca- 
tion of  fishermen,  and  to  whom  indeed 
the  greater  part  of  the  fishing  stjitiona 
and  vessels  in  the  Wiiitc  Sea  belong. 

Kem.— Lat.  64*^  5G'  N.  Pop.  1750. 
Distant  280  v.  by  sea  and  521  v.  by 
lantl  from  Archangel. 

This  town  is  very  prettily  situated 


Eussia. 


Boute  3. — Onega — KargopoL 


IGl 


on  the  river  Kem,  which  falls  into 
the  White  Sea  on  its  W.  shore.  In 
the  15th  centy.  it  belonged  to  Martha, 
the  "Possadnitsa"  of  Novgorod,  who 
in  1450  made  a  gift  of  it  to  the  Solo- 
vetsk monastery.  The  Finns  took  it 
in  1580,  when  the  Vm^vodc  of  Solo- 
vetsk and  many  Streltsi  were  killed. 
In  1590  the  Swedes  took  possession 
of  the  entire  district.  A  wcKKlen  for- 
tress, erected  in  1G57  by  the  monks 
on  Lep  island  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Kem,  was  destroyed  by  inundations 
that  occurred  in  1749  and  17G3. 

The  inhabitants  arc  almost  exclu- 
sively occui)ied  in  smnmer  in  the 
lierring  and  cod  fisheries,  the  women 
alone  remaining  in  jjossession  of  the 
town.  During  the  long  absence  of 
their  husbands,  however,  they  fre- 
quently make  pilgrimages  to  the 
shrines  of  Solovetsk.  As  the  iidiabi- 
tants  of  the  Kem  district  principally 
consist  of  Careh  and  Lupars  the 
traveller  will  have  an  excellent  oppor- 
tunity of  studyhig  the  characteristics 
of  those  northern  races;  and  the 
excursion  might  be  made  still  more 
interesting  by  returning  via  Onega, 
and  ascending  the  Onega  river  to 
Kargopol,  instead  of  posting  to  the 
latter  town  from  Archangel. 


3.  Excursion  from  Kem  to  Onega. 

Should  the  steamer  not  touch  at 
Onega  on  her  return  from  Kem,  the 
traveller  can  proceed  by  the  high  road 
t<i  Archangel,  the  distance  between 
Kem  and  Onega  being  289  v.,  and 
that  to  Archangel  from  Onega  232  v. 
more. 

Oneoa  is  a  place  of  some  trade  par- 
ticularly in  timber.  An  English 
company  has  for  many  years  had  a 
c(mcession  for  cutting  and  exporting 
timber  from  this  district^  The  com- 
pany has  3  eaw-mills — 2  on  the  river 
Piinga  and  on(^  on  the  Anda,  tribu- 
taries of  the  Onega,  which  is  a  very 
fine  and  broad  stream,  400  v.  in 
length  irom  Kargopol,  in  the  vicinity 
of  which  town  it  takea  its  rise. 


The  town  is  supposed  to  have  been 
founded  in  the  15th  centy.,  but  its 
existence  can  only  be  authentically 
traced  back  to  tlu;  end  of  the  17th 
centy.  It  has  a  Pop.  of  2000,  and  2 
clis.  Here  the  traveller  will  be  able 
to  get  advice  and  assistance  from  the 
agents  of  the  English  Timber  Com- 
pany, who  will  gladly  put  him  on  his 
way  up  the  Onega  river,  the  rapids  of 
winch,  combined  with  very  fine  scenery, 
are  well  worthy  of  being  visited. 

It  is  almost  needless  to  say  that 
game  of  every  kind  abounds  through- 
out this  part  of  the  country,  but  the 
proper  time  for  killing  it  is  of  course 
the  winter,  when  only  the  most  enthu- 
siastic siKirtsman  would  venture  to 
carry  his  gun  so  far  and  to  such  a 
climate. 


Journey  to  St.  Petersburg. 

Having  provided  himself  with  a 
Tixlorojna,  and  attended  strictly  to 
all  the  injunctions  of  his  countrymen 
at  Archangel,  who  will  most  willingly 
give  him  every  assistance  in  their 
power,  the  traveller  bent  on  posting 
to  St.  Petersburg  must  resign  him- 
self to  the  jolting  of  a  tarantass  and 
the  rapid  driving  of  a  yamstehik.  A 
considerable  part  of  the  bad  road  (or 
150  V.)  may,  however,  be  avoided  by 
taking  advantage  of  a  steamer  which 
runs  regularly  up  the  Dvina  to  Siya, 
the  7th  post  station  from  Archangel. 

Tliirteen  stations  beyond  Siya,  or 
445  V.  from  Archangel,  is  the  town  of 

Kargopol,  where  the  traveller  will 
rest. 

As  regards  Hotels^  the  general  rule 
in  Russia  applies : — There  are  none 
at  Kargopol;  but  the  traveller  will 
find  a  night's  lodging  at  tho  post 
station. 

History  of  the  Tovm.  Situated  in 
Lat.  Gl'  30"'N.,  in  province  of  Olonetz, 
on  left  bank  of  Onega  River.  Pop. 
2000. 

Kargopol  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
colonies  in  the  N.  of  Russia,  but  the 
first  authentic  mention  of  the  town 
occurs  in  1447,  when  Prince  Dmitry 


162 


Boute  3. — Vyfegra — PctrozavodsJ:. 


Sect.  I. 


Shoiniakn  and  Prince  John  Mojaisky, 
soui^ht  ret'u<»;o  in  it  from  the  persecu- 
tion of  the  Tsar,  PJasil  the  Dark. 
From  a  charter,  dated  153G,  it  appears 
that  Kars^opol  was  at  that  time  a 
place  of  con3i(hn-a])le  traffic,  and  pos- 
sessed of  a  privilcije  for  trading  in 
salt.  In  15G5,  John  the  Terrible 
ordered  the  supjdies  for  his  household 
to  be  drawn  from  lvargoiK)l,  and  he 
loft  the  town  by  will  to  his  son  John. 
The  Litliuanians  and  Poles  set  lire  to 
the  outskirts  in  1612,  after  three  in- 
eftectual  attempts  to  take  the  town 
by  assault,  and  it  was  again  besieged 
f()r  a  considerable  time  by  Cossacks 
and  lawless  bands  from  the  Volga. 
As  a  place  of  banishment,  Kargopol 
received  in  1538  the  Lady  Agrippina 
Cheliadnina,  the  governess  of  tlie 
young  Tsar  John  IV.  At  the  in- 
stance of  the  Shuiski  faction  she  was 
here  made  to  take  the  veil.  Solomonia, 
the  consort  of  the  Grand  Duke  Basil 
of  Moscow,  father  of  John  the  Terril)le, 
was  imprisoned  at  Kargopol  on  ac- 
count of  her  barrenness,  in  1525.  In 
the  reign  of  tlie  Tsar  Themlore,  Prince 
Anthony  Shuiski  was  jnit  to  death 
here,  a.d.  1587.  The  wall  of  the  old 
fortress  in  which  these  state  prisoners 
were  conHned  is  still  partly  visible, 
together  with  the  remains  of  tlie  moat, 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  Onega. 
There  are  19  chs.  within  the  town, 
and  a  convent  (the  Uspenski  or  the 
Assumption) ;  but  there  is  notliing 
within  them  of  any  great  note. 

The  inhabitants  of  Kargopol  are 
principally  occupied  in  the  dressing 
of  skins,  of  which  about  2  millions  are 
annually  sent  to  Nijni-Novgorod  and 
St.  I'etersburg.  A  market  is  held 
every  Sunday,  in  summer,  when  the 
country  people  come  in  with  their  pro- 
duce. 

Continuation  of  JuHrneij.  Ten  sta- 
tions beyond  is 

Vytegra,  district  town  in  prov.  of 
Olonetz,  668  v.  from  Archangel,  Lat. 
61°.     Pop.  2500. 

This  town  is  prettily  situated  on 
both  banks  of  a  navigable  river  bear- 
ing the  same  name.  Until  the  reign 
of  IVter  the  Great  it  was  onlv  a  station 


or  wharf  for  vessels  laden  with  grain, 
«&c.,  ])ut  tlie  Vytegra  river  having 
later  become  part  of  the  "  canal  sys- 
tem "  that  unites  the  White  Sea  with 
the  Baltic,  it  was  raised  from  the 
rank  of  a  village  to  that  of  a  town. 
Vytegra  has  therefore  no  historical 
interest,  but  to  the  geologist  the 
rugged  banks  of  the  river  will  offer 
many  attracti<ins,  being  composed  of 
red  sandstone  of  the  Devonian  forma- 
tion, full  of  fossil  remains,  particularly 
of  fishes.  In  the  limestone  near 
Deviatinski  will  be  found  fossils  of 
Choctetes  radians,  Leptxna  hardreusiSf 
Cidaria  rossirus,  Natica  Mari.i',  &c., 
while  in  the  sandstone  specimens  of 
the  Stifjmaria  Jicoides  abound. 

Travellers  are  recounnended  to  ter- 
minate their  land  journey  at  Vyte- 
gra, by  crossing  over  in  a  boat  to  Vos- 
nesenie',  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
lake  of  Onega  (al)out  50  v.),  and  thenco 
taking  steam  to  Lake  Ladoga,  which 
will  be  reaclie<l  by  means  of  the  river 
Svir. 


Excursion  to  Vetrozavodsh. 

Aiter  arriving  at  Vo.snesenie'  tho 
more  enterprising  tourist  will  endea- 
vour to  reach  IVtrozaviKlsk,  on  the 
western  shore  of  Lake  ( hiega,  which 
is  220  v,  in  length  and  about  75  in 
l>readth.  Steamers  run  regularly 
twice  a  week  Ix-tweeii  St.  Petersburg 
and  l^etrozavodsk,  touching  at  Vos- 
ncsenie.  The  entire  voyage  is  made 
in  2  days. 

Pethozavodsk.  —  This  town  wa.s 
founded  ])y  Peter  the  Great,  with  tho 
view  of  develoi)ing  the  mineral  re- 
sources of  that  part  of  his  empire. 
The  province  of  Olonetz  is  rich  in 
copper,  iron,  and  mica,  which  were 
worked  in  the  earliest  ages.  It  was 
anciently  called  0>relia;  and  its  in- 
habitants, the  Corels,  embraced  Chris- 
tianity at  the  beginning  of  the  13th 
centy.  Corelia  was  annexed  to  tho 
republic  of  Novgorod,  which  granted 
permission  to  Dutch  and  other  mer- 
chants to  cut  wood  and  raise  iron  and 
mica  in  the  vicinity  of  tho  lake.   Later 


Eussia. 


Boute  L— Berlin  to  Beval. 


163 


the   Swedes    and   Lithuanians  made 
frequent  incursions. 

The  town   of    Petrozavodsk    dates 
from  1701,  when  Peter  the  Great  es- 
tablished there  works  for  casting  can- 
non, but  which  were  afterwards  des- 
troyed, and  replaced  by  other  works 
completed  in  1774.     Guns  cx)ntmued, 
nevertheless,  to  be  imported  into  llus- 
sia  at  great  ex])ense  from  the  Carron 
Works  in  Scotland,  owing  probably  to 
the  unsatisfactory  state  of  the  esta- 
blishment on  Lake  Onega.     In  order 
to  improve  the  latter,  Catherine   II. 
invited  Charles    Gascoigne,  the    ma- 
nager of  the  Carron  Works,  to  come 
over   and    rebuild    the   gun-foundry, 
which  he  did  in  1704,  when  the  town 
that   had   sprung  up  around   it   took 
the  name  of  Petrozavodsk.    Gascoigne 
was  accompanied  by  two  English  arti- 
zans,  George  Clarke  and  James  Wilson, 
who  subsequently  rose  to  great  emin- 
ence in  the  service  of  Russia.     Guns 
for  the  navy  are  to  this  day  cast  at 
I'etrozavodsk. 


Cmtinuation  of  Journey. 

Returning  in  the  steamer  to  Vos- 
nesenie  the  traveller,  who  does  not 
wish  iA)  go  overland  from  Vytegra, 
will  continue  his  voyage  down  the 
river  Svir,  which  connects  the  lakes 
of  Ladoga  and  Onega.  The  steamer 
will  stop  at  Lodeinoe  Pole  (the  Field 
of  Lodi),  more  than  half  way  down 
the  river.  This  is  a  place  of  some 
interest  as  the  spot  where  Peter  the 
Great  built  his  first  galleys  in  1702. 
He  superintemled  their  building  m 
person,  and  subseiiuently  employed 
them  in  tiiking  the  fortress  of  Schliis- 
selburg  from  the  Swedes.  A  monu- 
ment of  cast  iron  marks  the  site  of  a 
house  in  which  Peter  resided. 

Emerging  on  Ladoga,  the  largest 
lake  in  Europe,  having  an  area  of 
336  sq.  geog.  m..  and  after  a  voyage  ot 
some  hours,  the  traveller  will  come  m 
sight  of  the  grim  fortress  of  Schliis- 
Kdburg,  where  the  river  Neva  takes 
its  rise.  For  a  description  of  this 
fortress,  and  of  the  course  of  the  Neva, 
ride  Rte.  1,  Excursion  6. 


The  overland  route  from  Vytegra  to 
St.  Petersburg  passes  through  Lodei- 
noe Pole  (855.^  v.  from  Archangel) 
and  the  town  of  Novaya  Ladoga  (957^ 
v.),  in  which  there  is  nothing  of  in- 
terest, except  the  canal  and  locks. 
There  are  23  stages  between  Vytegra 
and  St.  Petersburg,  the  longest  being 
27i  V.  and  the  shortest  10^  v.  The 
town  of  Schlusselberg,  through  which 
the  traveller  will  pass  during  the  last 
part  pf  his  journey,  is  60  v.  from  St. 
Petersburg  by  the  post  road. 


ROUTE  4. 

BERLIN  TO  KEVAL,  BY  RIGA,  DORrAT,  ETC. 

Sea  i?o?<fe.— Riga  may  be  reached 
by  steamers  from  Hull,  Stettin,  and 
Lubeck. 

Overland  jRoufe.— A  branch  line  from 
Dunaburg  (vide  Rte.  1)  places  Riga 
in  direct  rly.  communication  with 
St.  Petersburg,  Moscow,  and  the 
Southern  lines,  as  well  as  with  the  net- 
work of  European  rlys. 

Fare  from  London  {via  Calais)  to 
Riga :  1st  class,  324  francs  80  c. ;  1st 
and  2iid  (mixed),  261  fr.  5  c, 


104 


Route  4. — Livonia. 


Sect.  I. 


Stations : — 
Diiiiaburg  (vide  Etc.  1). 
Lixna,  Of  m.  from  Diinuburp:, 
Kreutzbiirg,  55  m.    Train  stops  52 

min. 
Eomcrsliof,  01  m.  Train  stops  10  min. 

HiGA.—lTofeh :  HAtel  do  St.  Pctors- 
Inirg  in  tlie  Castle  Square  ;  Stuclt 
London,  in  the  centre  of  the  old  town ; 
Hotel  du  Nord,  near  the  English  cli. 

There  is  room  for  improvement  in 
the  liotcls  at  Riga,  hnt  the  prices  are 
lower  than  those  of  the  best  hotels  at 
St.  Petersburg. 

Cafe:  Kropsch's,  near  the  Exchange. 

Riga,  the  capital  of  Livonia,  with  a 
Pop.  of  100,000,  is  the  chief  seat  of  the 
political,  military,  and  administrative 
government  of  the  3  Baltic  provhices, 
Livonia,  Esthonia,  and  Courlan<l,  as 
well  as  the  centre  of  their  commercial 
and  industrial  activity. 

Livonia  was  almost  unknown  to  the 
rest  of  Europe  until  1158,  when  some 
lin^nen  merchants  on  a  trading  voyage 
to  Wisby,  on  the  Swedisli  island  of 
Gottland,  were  wrecked  on  theLivonian 
coast,  and  soon  after  formed  settle- 
ments on  it,  and  established  commercial 
relations  with  the  inhabitants.  Mein- 
hardt,  an  Augustine  monk,  converted 
the  Livonians  to  Christianity  in  11G8, 
and  became  their  first  bishop,  but  it 
was  not  until  the  time  of  Albert,  the 
4th  bishop,  that  the  Christian  religion 
was  fully  introduced.  Albert  built 
Riga  A.D.  1200,  and  made  it  the  seat 
of  the  bishoi)ric.  Towards  the  end  of 
that  cent,  the  Paltie  provinces  were 
seized  by  KingKnut  VI.  of  Denmark ; 
they  were  subseijuently  sold  by  "NVal- 
demar  HI.,  one  of  his  descendants,  to 
the  Order  of  the  Brethren  of  the  Cross 
and  Sword  (Schwert  briider)  fouuded 
by  Bisliop  Albert. 

In  the  full  si)irit  of  the  name  they 
bore,  these  warlike  adventurers  speedily 
enlarged  the  territories  of  the  Hanse 
Towns.  Ignorant  of  the  language,  and 
despising  the  habits  of  the  natives, 
their  principal  weapon  of  conversion  to 
the  true  faith  was  the  sword  by  which 
they  held  their  footing  on  the  shores  of 
the  east  sea;  though  on  one  occasion 


tlie  Bishop  of  Riga  is  reported  to  have 
edified  the  minds  of  heathen  Wends  by 
a  dramatic  representation  of  a  variety 
of  scenes  from  the  Bible.    All  writers 
concur  in  describing  the  cnielties  prac- 
tised   upon    the   unbelieving    natives 
by  these  Christian  warriors  as  of  tho 
most  revolting  and  barbarous  descrip- 
tion.     They  were  not  long  permitted 
to  pursue  their  career  of  conquest  and 
tyranny  with  impunity.    On  tiie  nortli, 
they  were  compelled  to  recoil  before 
the  arms  of  the  Dane  ;  while  the  Rus- 
sians, alarmed  at  the  near  approach  of 
snoli  formidable  neighbours,  roused  tho 
natives  to  avenge  the  wrongs  of  half 
a  century  of  oppression,  and  the  flamo 
of  insurrection   spread   far   and    wide 
throughout     Livonia     and     Esthonia. 
INFany  Germans  were   cut  oft'  by   tho 
insurgents  ;  but  at  length  Bishop  Bern- 
hard,   falling   upon   their  tumultuous 
forces   with   his  disciplined   chivalry, 
route<l  the  Wends    the  aborigines  of 
Livonia)   and  their  allies,   and    slew 
them  mercilessly.     The  Russian  town 
of  Dorpat  was  taken,  and  a  German 
colony   established   there   (a.d.  1220). 
The  capture  of  the  isle   of  Oesel,   to 
the  rocky  fastnesses  of  which  the  best 
and  bravest  of  the  Livonians  had  re- 
tired as  a  last  refuge,  and  the  voluntary 
conversion   of  the  Courlanders,   esta- 
blished the  i)ower  of  the  brotherhood. 
Tiie    Emperor    Frederick   II.   (1230) 
conferred  the  conquered  provinces  as 
an  imperial  fief  on  Valqnin,  the  grand 
master   of  the   order,  and  everything 
seemed  to  promise  the  rapid  rise  of  a 
mighty  kingdom,  when  a  sudden  attack 
of  the  Lithnain'ans  laid  low  the  grand 
master  and  his  hopes  of  conquest,  and 
nearly  annihilated  the  entire  forces  of 
the  brotherhood.      Tho   scanty   n^lics 
of  this  powerful  body  now  called  for  aid 
on  their  brethern  the  Teutonic  knights, 
who  were  anxiously  seeking  a  faiier 
field  for  military  achievements  than  tho 
East,  where  they  were  alike  hara8s<'d 
by  the  open  violence  of  the  ]Mussulnian, 
and  the  jealousy  of  the  rival  onlers,  tho 
Templars  and  IIosi)itallers.     The  pre- 
sence of  these  hardy  warriors  restored 
tho  Christians  to  their  former  superi- 
ority in  the  field,  and  these  new  comers 
soou  rivalled  the  knights  of  the  Cross 


Ilussia. 


Boiite  4. — Riga, 


1G5 


and  Sword  in  cnielty,  l)urning  whole 
villages  that  had  relapsed  into  idolatry, 
and  making,  in  the  words  of  one  of 
their  own  bishops,  "  out  of  free-born 
men  tiie  most  wretched  slaves."     As 
allies  of  the  Poles,  they  built  on  the 
Vistula  the  fort  of  Nassau,  and,  sal- 
lying forth  from  thence,  took  by  storm 
tlie  holy  oak  of  Thorn,  tlie  chief  sanc- 
tuary of  the  Prussians,  and  beneath  its 
far-spreading  arms,  as  in  a  citadel,  the 
Imiglits  defended  themselves   against 
the  frantic  attacks  of  the  pagans.     A 
general  rising  of  the  natives,  and  a  war 
of  extermination,  reduced  their  numer- 
ous forces  to  a  few  scanty  troops,  and 
their  ample  domains  to  3  strongholds  ; 
and,  after  various  alternate  defeats  and 
victories,  they  were  rescued  from  entire 
destruction  by  a  crusade,  under  the 
ct»mmand  of  the  Bohemian  monarch, 
Ottokar  the  Great,  who  founded  the 
city  of  Konigsberg  (a.d.  12G0),  and 
gave  for  a  time  new  life  and  vigour 
to  the  falling  fortunes  of  the  northern 
chivalry. 

Internal  dissensions,  and  the  conse- 
quent establishment  of  a  second  grand 
master,  who  held  his  seat  at  IMergcnt- 
heim,  weakened  the  growing  power  of 
the    reviving    brotherhood,    and    tho 
fatal  battle  of  Tannenberg  (1410)  gave 
a  mortal  blow  to  the  importance  of 
this  "  unnatural  institution  ;"  but  the 
knights  still  retained  the  whole  eastern 
coast  of  the  Baltic,  from  the  Narova  to 
the  Vistula,  and  it  was  not  until  the 
end  of  the  15th  cent,  that  the   arms 
of  I'oland  compelled  them  finally  to 
relinquish  their  clahns  to  the  district 
of  eastern  and  western  Prussia.     The 
ancient  spirit  of  the  order  awoke  once 
again  in  the  Grand  Master  Tlettenberg, 
wlio  routed  the  Russians  in  1502,  and 
compelled  the  Tsar  to  agree  to  a  trucx3 
for  50  years ;  but  the  stipulated  time 
had  no  sooner  elapsed  than  the  Rus- 
sians again  invaded  them,  and,  too 
feeble  any  longer  to  resist  such  power- 
ful enemies,  the  knights  were  glad  to 
purchase  peace  and   the  undisturbed 
l)Ossession  of  the  ])rovince  of  Courland 
as  a  fief  of  the  Polish  crown  by  sur- 
rendering Esthonia   to    Sweden,   and 
Livonia  to  the  Poles,  while  the  districts 
of  Narva  and  Dorpat  were  incorporated 


with  the  empire  of  Russia.  Still  the 
brotherhood  existed.  Without  imix)rt- 
anco  as  an  independent  power,  but 
valuable  as  an  ally,  its  friendship  was 
sought  arl  courted  in  the  various 
intrigues  and  commotions  of  the  Rus- 
sian'^ throne  during  the  early  part  of 
the  18  til  cent. 

Edhonia  and  Livonia  were  finally 
given  up  by  Sweden  to  Russia  in  1721, 
at  the  peace  of  Nystadt.  By  the  terms 
of  the  capitulation  which  preceded  that 
treaty,  the  Protestant  religion  and  tho 
Gorman  language  were  guaranteed,  as 
well  as  all  ancient  rights  and  privi- 
leges. 

Courland  was  incorporated'  with 
Russia  in  1795,  at  the  3rd  partition 
of  Poland ;  Peter  Biren,  the  last  duke, 
son  of  the  favourite  of  the  Empress 
Anne  of  Russia,  receiving  as  conqK'n- 
satioii  the  sum  of  2,000,000  rubles 
pension  for  life. 

The  town  of  Riga  has  been  much 
embellished  and  enlarged  since  the 
removal  of  the  lines  of  fortification  in 
1858.  It  has  quite  the  appearance  of 
a  German  town.  The  majority  of  the 
inhabitants  are  German  Protestants; 
Russians  are  next  in  numerical  im- 
portance. There  arc  many  Letts  and 
l*oles ;  among  the  foreigners  the  Eng- 
lish arc  the  most  numerous.  Riga  is 
the  second  commercial  city  of  Russia. 
During  the  season  2000  ships  load 
opposite  the  town.  The  principal  ex- 
ports are  grain,  linseed,  flax,  hemp, 
and  wood;  the  chief  imports,  salt, 
herrings,  coal,  iron,  machinery, colonial 
goods,'&c.  There  are  70  factories,  mills, 
and  other  similar  establisliments  in 
the  town  and  suburbs. 

The  principal  learned  and  scientific 
societies  are  the  Society  of  History  and 
Antiquities  of  the  Baltic  Provinces,  the 
Society  of  Naturalists,  and  the  Society 
of  Practical  Literature.  There  are  a 
high  school  for  technical  science,  two 
gymnasiums,  a  school  of  navigation, 
and  several  other  public  and  private 
schools.  The  town  is  very  richly  en- 
dowed with  charitable  institutions, 
many  of  which  are  of  ancient  founda- 
tion ;  amongst  the  number  arc  an  ex- 


IGG 


Boute  4. — Biga. 


Sect.  I. 


cellent  orphan  asylum,  and  several 
asylums  for  widows  of  citizens  in  re- 
duced circumstances. 

Music  is  the  most  cultivated  of  the 
fine  arts. 

A  j^^ood  operatic  company,  a  musical 
society,  and  5  sin<::in^  clubs  are  among 
the  amusements  of  Riga. 

The  sights  of  the  town  are — 

The  Imperial  Castle,  a  massive  build- 
ing with  2  crenelated  towers,  dating 
from  the  time  of  the  grand  masters  of 
the  Teutonic  Knights.  Over  an  arcli- 
way  in  the  court  is  a  stone  statue  of 
the  Virgin  Mary,  protectress  of  tlie 
German  orders ;  also,  the  statue  of 
the  celebrated  Grand  Master  Walter 
von  Tlettenberg.  The  castle  is  now 
the  residence  of  the  Governor  General. 
In  front  of  the  castle  is  a  monument 
raised  by  the  citizens  in  honour  of 
Alexander  I.,  to  commemorate  tlie 
campaign  of  1812. 

The  Citadel,  with  an  arsenal,  mili- 
tary barracks,  and  a  handsome  Russo- 
Greek  cathedral,  dedicated  to  St.  I'eter 
and  St.  Paul. 

The  Manaion  Jloiise,  containing  most 
interesting  archives  connected  with 
the  ancient  liistorv  of  tlie  town. 

The  Hall  of  the  Blachheaih:  Scliwartz- 
liauptern),  one  of  the  oldest  buildings 
in  the  town,  built  early  in  1200,  and 
often  restored.  This  is  a  most  interest- 
ing building,  not  only  from  its  peculiar 
style,  but  also  from  the  relics  which  it 
contains,  including  a  curious  collection 
of  silver  plate. 

The  Guildhalls  of  the  great  and  small 
guilds;  handsome  modern  buildings  in 
the  Gothic  and  mediaeval  styles,  con- 
tahiing  many  curiosities  of  the  middle 
ages. 

The  Cathedral  Church,  a  large  build- 
ing of  the  13th  and  14th  centy.,  con- 
taining the  tomb  of  the  1st  bishop  of 
Livonia. 

St.  Peter's  Church,  with  a  lofty  spire 
of  a  peculiarly  bold  construction,  from 
the  galleries  of  which  extensive  views 
may  be  obtained. 

The  Emjlish  Churchy  a  building  in 
tlie  purest  style,  where  service  is  per- 
formed by  a  resident  clergyman.  Built 


and  entirely  supported  by  the  English 
merchants  established  at  Riga. 

The  Toivn  Library,  containing  many 
rare  manuscripts. 

The  Museum,  containing  a  fine  arch- 
asological  and  zoological  collection. 

The  Braderlow  GaUerij  of  Vainiiuffs^ 
containing  many  originals  by  cele- 
brated masters. 

The  Bitter-house,  containing  the 
knights'  hall,  and  the  coats  of  arms 
of  all  the  Livonian  nobility,  who  hold 
their  parliaments  there. 

The  Exchaurje,  a  handsome  new 
building,  in  the  Florentine  style. 

The  Theatre,  an  imi)osing  building 
of  the  handsonu'st  description,  open 
during  nearly  the  whole  vear. 

There  are  also  Club-nousc!*,  where 
balls  are  given  during  the  winter  sea- 
son, and  where  the  national  and  foreign 
newspapers  are  to  be  found  for  the  use 
of  the  members  or  of  visitors,  who  can 
be  introduced  by  a  member  free  of  all 
payment. 

()utsidQ  the  town  are  the  Imperial 
Public  Gardens,  with  an  elm  planted 
by  l*eter  the  Great;  and  the  Wohr- 
man  l*ark,  with  an  establishment  for 
l)reparing  and  <lis|)ensing  mineral 
waters,  which  arc  taken  early  on  sum- 
mer mornings  to  the  music  of  a  good 
band. 

The  communication  with  the  hft 
bank  of  the  river,  on  which  are  tlu^ 
Mittau  suburb,  the  herring  wharf, 
&c.,  is  in  summer  maintained  by  a 
floating  bridge,  or  long  raft,  ab(jut 
2000  ft.  long,  across  which  goods  an; 
passed  from  the  large  flat-bottomed 
barges  that  arrive  in  spring  from  the 
interior  of  the  countrv,  and  which 
anchor  on  the  up))er  side  of  the  bridge. 
The  ships  frequenting  this  port  lie 
in  rows,  head  or  stern  on,  at  the  lower 
side  of  the  bridge. 

Riga  is  supplied  with  water  and  gas 
by  establishments  under  the  manage- 
ment of  a  town  committee. 

The  principal  objects  of  interest  in 
the  neighbourhood  are  the  Fortress  of 
Dunamunde,  1  hour  from  Riga  by 
steamboat,  and  the  mole  opposite, 
built  to  maintain  deep  water  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Dwiua ;  the  large  Mdi" 


Russia* 


Boute  4. — Diiheln — Mittau — Borpat, 


167 


tarij  Hospital  and  House  of  Correction, 
at  Alexander  s  Hohe ;  the  old  Buins  of 
Kohenliusen  Castle,  on  the  Dwina, 
standing  in  the  midst  of  peculiarly 
striking  and  ])eautiful  scenery ;  and 
the  Livonian  Switzerland,  with  the  3 
old  castles  of  Cremon,  Tryden,  and 
Begewold,  all  in  situations  of  great 
beauty.  These  are  about  4  hours' 
drive  from  Riga,  along  a  good  road. 

Diibeln  Stat.,  a  watering-place  situ- 
ated on  the  Courland  river  Aa,  distant 
about  15  Eng.  m.  from  Riga,  with 
which  place  there  is  frequent  daily 
communication  by  steamboat.  Faro  h 
silver  rouble ;  length  of  passage  about 
2  hrs.  Diibeln  is  much  frequented  for 
sea-bathing  during  the  season,  from 
July  to  September  inclusive,  by  visitors 
from  the  neighbouring  provinces,  as 
well  as  from  St.  Petersburg  and  other 
parts  of  Russia.  The  village,  consist- 
ing of  small  wooden  houses,  with  a 
few  of  a  better  class  interspersed,  is 
unfortunately  situated  in  a  sandy 
hollow  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
and  distant  }  ra.  from  the  sea,  from 
which  it  is  separated  by  a  low  hill 
covered  with  pine-trees.  No  houses 
are  allowed  to  be  built  overlooking 
the  sea.  The  hours  of  bathing  for 
ladies  and  gentlemen  respectively  are 
regulated  by  the  ringing  of  a  bell, 
and  any  infringement  by  the  one  sex 
on  the  hours  sacred  to  the  other  is 
visited  with  a  severe  fine  when  de- 
tected. To  those  accustomed  to  wit- 
ness the  promiscuous  bathing  of  the 
sexes  in  the  hnmediate  vicinity  of  Riga, 
this  phase  of  Russo-German  modesty 
appears  somewhat  exaggerated. 

Diligences  run  daily  from  Riga  to 
Mittau  (3  hours),  Dor  pat  (2G  hours), 
and  other  towns  in  Livonia.  Steamers 
ply  twice  a  week  to  Beval  and  St. 
Petersburg,  and  other  places.  A  rail- 
way is  in  course  of  construction  from 
Riga  to  Mittau. 


on  the  site  of  the  present  palace,  the 
residence  in  1798  and  1804  of  Louis 
XVIII.,  as  Count  de  Lille.  This  re- 
markable building  was  almost  entirely 
built  by  Biren,  the  favourite  of  the 
Empress  Anne,  when  he  was  chosen 
"  chief  of  the  Courish  nobility."  There 
is  a  museum  and  a  library  contain- 
ing 7500  vols. ;  a  gymnasium,  with  a 
library  of  30,000  vols. ;  and  many  bene- 
volent institutions.  The  carnival  is 
the  gayest  period  of  the  year  at 
Mittau. 


1.  Mittau  (HC)tel  de  Courlande)  (Pop. 
2G,000),  the  capital  of  Courland,  was 
founded  in  12GG,  when  the  Grand 
Master,  Conrad  3Iedem,  built  a  castle 


2.  Dor}mt.  Hotel  de  St.  Peters- 
burg; Hotel  de  Londres.  Pop.  14,000. 
The  history  of  this  town  is  a  stirring 
and  a  stormy  one.  The  Russians  from 
the  E.,  the  Teutonic  Knights  from  the 
W.,  tiie  quarrels  of  both  with  the 
aboriginal  Esthonians,  and  the  bloody 
wars  between  the  Russians,  Swedes, 
and  Poles,  more  than  once  laid  it  in 
ashes.  Its  University  was  founded  by 
Gustavus  Adolphus  in  1632,  the  year 
of  his  death,  and,  after  various  vicissi- 
tudes, it  took  refuge  in  Sweden,  to 
avoid  the  Russian  army  in  1710.  Pro- 
fessors, students,  libraries,  museums — 
all  departed ;  and  returned  only  uniler 
the  auspices  of  the  Emperor  Alexander 
I.  in  1802. 

Among  the  professors  one  name  may 
be  cited  of  great  celebrity,  that  of  the 
late  Otto  Struve,  whose  astronomical 
labours  have  procured  him  a  well- 
earned  reputation  throughout  Europe. 
The  observatory  on  the  Domberg,  from 
the  character  of  the  work  done  there, 
is  ranked  among  the  most  celebrated 
institutions  in  this  branch  of  science, 
and  well  worthy  of  being  seen.  Here 
is  a  great  refracting  telescope,  the 
work  of  Frauenhofer,  mounted  in  such 
a  manner  that  the  iron  roof,  revolving 
round  a  vertical  line,  afibrds  complete 
protection  from  the  weather  without 
hindering  the  view  of  any  point  in 
the  heavens.  This  was  designed  and 
constructed  by  Mr.  Parrot,  and  so 
beautifully  is  it  executed  that  one 
hand  is  enough  to  impel  and  guide 
the  machinery  which  moves  the  tele- 
scope and  roof.  The  Emperor  Alex- 
ander I.  presented  the  telescope  to  the 


168 


Boute  4. — Estlionia. 


Sect.  I. 


Kussia. 


Itoiite  4. — Iteval, 


IGO 


University.  Some  of  the  apparatus 
wliich  Avas  used  in  measuring  a  por- 
tion of  the  meridian  of  Dorpat  is  to  bo 
seen  here.  The  library  is  curiously 
situated  in  tlie  ruins  of  the  old  Dom  ; 
the  vit^ws  from  Jience  are  very  fine.  The 
broad  eroAvn  of  tlie  liill,  adorned  by 
numerous  avenues  of  trees,  is  called 
Cathedral  Place;  the  ruins  of  a  ch., 
destroyed  in  1775,  by  a  tire  which  con- 
.sumed  nearly  tlie  wliole  town,  explains 
tlie  origin  of  this  name.  On  the 
Dfunbcrg  are  likewise  the  Schocjls  of 
Anatomy  and  Natural  History,  the 
museums,  &c.  Tlie  philosopliical  in- 
struments are  remarkable  for  tlieir  liav- 
ing  been  made  for  tlie  most  i»art  by  a 
Itussian  artisan  of  the  name  of  Sanioil- 
off.  Of  all  the  collections  of  the  Univer- 
sity, that  of  the  Botanical  Garden  is  the 
most  complete;  it  contains  more  than 
18.000  i)lants,  some  of  which  are  not  to 
be  found  in  the  other  botanical  gardens 
of  Europe.  Dorpat,  like  Reval,  had 
once  its  corps  of  Hchwarzen  Haupter, 
or  "  association  of  citizens  for  the  de- 
fence of  the  city ;"  it  is  now  merely  a 
convivial  club.  Among  its  treasures 
is  a  magnificent  goblet  of  glass  and 
gold,  2  ft.  high,  on  the  side  of  which 
are  engraved  a  beetle,  a  hunnuing- 
bird,  and  a  butterfiy.  AVith  the  ex- 
ception of  the  Dom  no  vestige  remains 
at  Dorpat  of  the  ancient  Gothic  nucleus 
of  the  town;  all  is  new.  The  fortifi- 
cations have  been  converted  into  agree- 
able promenades.  A  granite  bridge 
over  the  Embach,  which  is  navigable 
up  to  Dori)at,  adds  not  a  little  to  the 
appearance  of  the  town. 


8.  lieiml  (Pop.  25,000).  Hotels :  the 
Hotel  Wittestrand  ;  and  the  Lion 
d'Or. 

Esthonia,  too  insignificant  a  country 
to  govern  itself,  but,  from  its  position, 
too  tempting  a  prize  to  be  disregarded 
by  neighbouring  states,  has  been 
roughly  used  by  every  northern  power, 
and  has  exhibited  scenes  of  sutfering 
and  discord  of  which  the  history  of  the 
town  of  Reval,  its  capital,  is  sufficient 
to  give  an  epitome.   The  first  buikUngs 


recorded  as  opcuj)ying  its  present  site 
were  erected  by  Eric  XIV.,  King  of 
Denmark. 

*'  These  consisted  of  a   monastery 
dedicated  to  the  archangel  Michael, 
afterwards  transformed  into  a  convent 
of  Cistercian  nuns,  the  ruins  of  which 
are  still  standmg,  and  whence  the  Cis- 
ternpforte,  one  of  the  gates  of  the  town, 
derives  its  name ;  and  a  fortress  called 
Lindauisse,  and  by  the  peasants  Dani- 
Linna,  or  Danish   town,  whence  the 
contraction    Tallina,    the    Esthonian 
name  for  Ileval  at  the  present  day. 
To  these  were  added  other  buildings : 
but  it  was  not  until  1219  that  Walde- 
mar  II.  of  Denmark  pulled  down  the 
fortress,  probably  on  the  Dome  Hill, 
and  set  alxmt  erecting  a  regular  town. 
From  this  time  itapjtears  to  have  been 
called  Iieval,  about  the  derivation  of 
wliich  many  have  disagreed,  but  which 
appears  with  the  most  jirobal^ility  to 
arise  from  the  Danish  word  llefwell,  a 
reef.     Iieval  now  became  of  sufiicient 
importance   to   be   quarrelled   for   by 
the  Danes,  the  Swedes,  the  Livonian 
Knights,   then   recently  united   with 
the   Grand    Order    of   the    Teutonic 
Knights,  and  even  by  the  Pope  him- 
self,  who,   however,    seems   to    have 
thrown  his  interest  into  the  scale  of 
Denmark,  by  which,  in  1240,  it  was 
elevated   to   the   seat   of  a  bishopric. 
To  this  was  shortly  after  added  (1284) 
the  privileges  of  a   Hanseatic   town. 
Trade  now  began  to  fiourish,  and  was 
further  encouraged  during  the  regency 
of  the   (^uecn   IMother    of  Denmark, 
Margaretta    ^^ambiria,    who    selecteil 
Esthonia  as  her  Wiitwcnsitz,  cmitiruivd 
and  increased  the  privileges  of  Ileval, 
endowed  it  with  the  right  of  coinage, 
&c.,  and  enfranchised  it  from  all  outer 
interference.     These   privileges,  how- 
ever, did  n(»t   extend  to  the   D(jme, 
where  the  Stadthalter,   or  governor, 
resided,  and   which,  as   it   still  con- 
tinues, was  indeiiendent  of  the  town, 
and  not  considered  Ileval.     But  even 
this  short  age  of  gold  was  disturbed 
by  many  bitter  quarrels  about  rights 
of  boundary,  &c.,  which  have  by  no 
means  fallen  into  disuse.     This  fertile 
province  of  Esthonia,  with  its  wealthy 
little  cai)ital,   from   being  a  widow's 


df)wry,  became  a  bride's  portion,  and 
in  right  of  his  wife,  a  princess  of 
Sweden,  was  possessed  for  some  time 
by  a  ]\Iarkgraf  of  Brandenburg.  After 
that  it  again  changed  hands,  and  was 
at  length  formally  sohl,  in  1347,  to 
the  Grand  Master  of  the  Teutonic 
Order  at  Marienburg,  and  given,  at 
first  in  trust,  and  afterwards  as  an 
independent  possession,  to  his  ally, 
the  Master  of  the  Order  in  Livonia." 

The  luxurious  habits  of  the  nol)ility 
fell  hard  upon  the  neglected  tserf 
peasant,  and  an  old  saying  still  exists, 
that  ''  Esthonia  was  an  P^lysium  for 
the  nobility,  a  heaven  for  the  clergy, 
a  mine  of  gold  for  the  stranger,  but  a 
hell  for  the  peasant,"  who,  agreeably 
to  the  history  of  most  republics,  was 
ground  down  to  the  most  abject 
poverty.  Consequently,  in  1500,  the 
jK'asants  rose  in  immense  numbers, 
attacked  castles  and  monasteries,  kill- 
ing and  slaying  all  before  them,  and 
menaced  Keval,  where  many  of  their 
lords  had  taken  refuge,  so  seriously, 
that  with  Russia,  always  a  troublesome 
neighbour,  invading  their  frontier,  and 
unaided  by  their  knights,  who  were 
fettered  with  debts,  and  had  battles 
enough  of  their  own  to  fight  at  this 
time,  the  Revaleii«ers  and  the  rest  of 
the  province  formally  threw  oft'  the 
dfmiinion  of  the  Order,  and,  calling 
over  the  aid  of  Sweden,  took  the  oaths 
of  allegiance  to  King  Eric  XIV.  in 
15G1. 

"  The  manner  in  which  the  provinces 
of  Esthonia  and  Livonia  were  wrested 
from  Charles  XII.  of  Sweden,  by  Peter 
the  Great,  is  too  well  known  to  need 
repetition.  The  Esthonians  esteem 
themselves  fortunate  in  being  united 
to  Russia  under  so  enlightened  a  Tsar, 
who  left  them  all  their  privileges,  and 
took  much  delight  in  his  new  ac- 
quisition, visiting  Reval  several  times, 
and  instituting  i)ublic  improvements. 
Reval  indeed  has  received  visits  from 
all  the  sovereigns  in  turn,  who  have 
l)aid  due  homage  to  its  beauty  and 
salubrity ;  and  also,  among  similar 
events,  remembers  with  jiride  the  visit 
of  Nelson. 

''  The  province  has  been  allowed  to 


retani  its  own  jurisdiction,  which  is  ad- 
ministered by  12  Landr'athe,  a  strictly 
honorary  office,  dating  from  the  14tli 
centy.  The  most  disthiguished  names 
which  fill  the  pages  of  Esthonian 
history, either  in  an  episcopal,  military, 
or  civil  capacity,  are  those  of  the  Barons 
Meyendorf,  Uxkiill  (the  Esthonian 
name  for  the  same,  but  now  a  distinct 
family),  Rosen,  and  Ungcrn,  all  of 
which  still  exist  in  very  flourishing 
condition,  with  many  others,  of  more 
recent  origin,  from  Sweden,  Russia, 
and  all  parts  of  Europe,  including 
even  the  names  of  Douglas,  O'Rourke, 
and  Lewis  of  Meiiar,  which  stand  here 
in  friendly  propinquity,  their  British 
origin  being  overlooked  in  their  esta- 
blished Esthonian  antiquity. 

'•  I  will  only  add  that  Reval  and 
Esthonia — for  tlieir  histories  blend  too 
much  to  be  separated — were  more  or 
less  under  the  dominion  of  Denmark 
until  1347,  under  that  of  the  Order  of 
Schwerdt-briider  until  15G1,  under 
Sweden  until  1700,  since  when  they 
have  jjroved  themselves  most  loyal  sub- 
jects to  Russia." 

Reval  is  divided  into  [2  parts,  the 
upper  and  lower  town;  the  former, 
perched  on  the  top  of  a  rocky  emi- 
nence, about  a  mile  in  circumference, 
encloses  within  its  old  Gothic  walls 
the  Dom,  the  castle,  with  the  residence 
of  the  governor,  the  commandant's 
house,  the  gymnasium,  and  the  houses 
of  the  nobility.  The  whole  of  this 
quarter  is  called  the  Dom,  and  no 
plebeian  is  permitted  to  possess  ground 
on  this  aristocratic  reef  of  rocks.  The 
lower  part,  the  descent  to  which  is 
very  steep,  at  one  spot  almost  danger- 
ous for  carriages,  is  of  considerable 
extent,  and  in  the  l>road  streets, 
stretching  to  the  flat  sandy  shore  of 
the  harbour,  are  the  dwellings  and 
warehouses  of  the  merchants,  the  rath- 
house,  the  guild-house,  the  bank,  the 
barracks,  and  the  theatre. 

The  churches  of  Reval  include  5 
Russian,  1  Swedish,  1  Danish,  and  4 
German.  The  Lutheran  are  of  great 
antiquity.  The  Olaihirche,  originally 
built  in  1329,  was  struck  and  partially 
consumed  by  lightning  no  less  than  8 


170 


^ouie  4. — Beval. 


Sect.  I» 


Itussia. 


Route  4. — Tleval. 


171 


times  ;  and  it  was  onlv  in  1840  that  it 
rose  from  the  ashes  in  wliich  it  was  laid 
in  1820, 

"  Its  arcliives  and  library,  liowever, 
preserve   an   unbroken   liistory ;    and 
many  of  its  arcliitectnral  ornaments, 
coeval  with  its  earliest  erection,  have 
been  saved  from  tiie  liames.     Among 
the  former  is  a  piece  of  sculpture  of 
great  richness,  consisting  of  two  wide 
niches,  the  upper  one  empty,  tlie  lower 
occupied  by  a  skeleton,  with  a  toad 
resting  on  the   body   and   a  serpent 
crawling  out  of  the  ear— supposed  to 
typify  the  destruction  of  an  idol  image 
recorded  to  have  been  iilled  with  these 
reptiles;  and  with  a  gorgeous  breadtii 
of  stone-work  in  8  partitions  around, 
exhibiting  the  triumph  of  Christianity 
in  tiie  Passion  of  onr  Saviour,    and 
other   parts  of  the   New  Testament. 
This  bears  date  1513.     The  tower,  re- 
built ijrecisely  on  the  former  scale  and 
form,  is  about  250  ft.  high,  and  serves 
as  a  landmark    in  navigation.     This 
edifice,  the   cathedral  church  of  the 
lower  towni,  is  in  pure  early  Gothic, 
with  lancet  windows  of  great  beauty, 
and  dedicated  to  St.  Olai,  a  canonized 
King  of  Norway,   who  mounted   the 
throne  at  the  beginning  of  the  11th 
centy.,  and  first  intrcxluced  Christian- 
ity among  the  Norwegians. 

"  The  next  ch.  of  importance  is  that 
of  St.  Nicholas — a  large,  3-aisled  struc- 
ture with  a  massive  square  tower — 
built  by  Bishop  Nicholas  in  1317. 
This  appears  to  have  eluded  the  zeal 
of  the  iconoclasts  of  reforming  times, 
and  possesses  many  relics  of  Roman 
Catholic  times.  The  most  interesting 
are  the  pictures  of  the  altar,  especially 
2  wing  paintings  containing  small 
lialf-lengtJi  figures  of  bishops,  car- 
dinals, priests,  and  nuns — 3  on  each 
side — in  Holbein's  time  and  manner, 
on  a  blue  ground,  and  of  great  beauty. 
Also  a  picture,  placed  for  better  light- 
ing at  the  back  of  the  altar— a  Cruci- 
fixion, including  tlie  2  thieves,  with 
town  and  mountains  in  the  back- 
ground, and  a  procession  of  equestrian 
figures  entering  the  gate.  This  is  of 
singular  beauty  of  expression  and 
form,  though  much  injured  by  recent 
renovations — of  the  school  of  Itaphael, 


and  especially  in  the  manner  of  An- 
drea del  Salerno. 

'•  Immediately  at  the  entrance  of  the 
cli.,  on  the  right  hand,  is  a  representa- 
tion of  the  oft-TQjyeatcd  Dance  of  Death 
— coinciding  not  only  in  age  and  ar- 
rangement, but  also  word  for  word  in 
the  riat  Deutsch  verses  beneath,  witJi 
the  same  subject  in  St.  IMary's  church 
at  Liibeck. 

"  The  chapels  of  some  of  the  chief 
nol)ility,  with  massive  iron  gates  and 
richly  adorned  with  armorial  bearings, 
arc  attached  to  this  ch.,  though  all  in 
a   very  neglectetl   state.     The   llosen 
chapel  is  now  occupied  by  the  unburied 
body  of  a  prince,  who  expiates  in  this 
form    a    life   of  extravagance.      The 
Duke  de  Croy — a  prince  of  the  Roman 
Empire,  Markgraf  of  ^Nlount  Cornette, 
and  of  otiier  fiefs,  &c.,  and  desceiidetl 
from   the    Kings   of    Hungary— after 
serving    with    distinction    under  the 
Emperor    of    Austria    and    King    of 
Poland,  passed  over  to  the  service  of 
Peter   the  Great,  obtained   the   com- 
mand of  the  Russian  army,  and  was 
defeated  by  Charles  XII.  at  the  battle 
of  Narva.     Fearing  the  Tsar's  resent- 
ment, he   surrendered  to  the  enemy, 
and  was  sent  a  prisoner  at  large  to 
Reval,  at  that  ep<xdi  under  the  sway 
of  Sweden.    Here,  indulging  a  pa.ssion 
for  ostentation,  he  managed  to  spend 
so  much,   tliat,    though  only  a   few 
years  elapsed  between  his  removal  to 
Reval  and  his  death,  the  residue  of  his 
fortune  was  unequal  to  meet  his  debts; 
upon  which  the   numerous  creditors, 
availing   themselves   of  an    old   law, 
which  refuses  the  rites  of  sepulture  to 
insolvent  debtors,   combined  to  deny 
him  a  Christian  burial,  and  tlie  body 
was  placed  in  a  cellar  in  the  precincts 
of  this  ch.     It  remained  in  its  uncon- 
secrated  abode  until,  accident  having 
discovered  it,   in    1819,   in  a  state  of 
perfect  preservation  owing  to  the  anti- 
putr(!scent  properties  of  the  cold,  it  was 
removed  into  the  Rosen  chapel,  and 
now  ranks   among  the  lions  of  this 
little  capital.     The  corpsi'  is  nttired  in 
a  rich  suit  of  black  velvet  and  white 
satin,  equally  uninjured  by  the  tooth 
of    time — with    silk    stockings,    full 
curled  wig,  and  a  ruff  of  the  most 


exquisite  point  lace,  which  any  mo- 
dern grand  duchess  might  also  ap- 
prove. The  remains  are  those  of  a 
smnll  man,  with  an  aristocratic  line  of 
countenance. 

"  In  resiK'ct  of  antiquity  the  Estho- 
nian  cliureh  bears  off  the  palm  in 
Reval,  being  mentioned  by  Jeon 
IMshop  of  Reval,  when  he  granted  to 
the  city  the  *  Jus  crrles^ladicuni  et  epix- 
cojiale,'  after  the  form  of  the  Liibeck 
statute,  in  1284,  a  time  when  St.  Olai 
and  St.  Nicholas  <lid  not  exist. 

*•  The  IiHssudi  rlmrcli,  or  one  adapted 
to  the  Russian  service  in  later  times, 
is  also  of  great  antiquity,  but  has  been 
altered  to  the  external  type  of  all 
Greek  places  of  worship. 

"The  Jlofel  (h  V/'lle  has  been  also 
renovated  with  windows  of  modern 
fonn.  Within,  the  magisterial  chair  is 
still  held  in  the  enqity  and  worn-out 
forms  of  days  of  more  importance ; 
and  the  efiigy  of  the  burgher  who  had 
his  tongue  cut  out  for  divulging  a 
state  secret,  warns  his  successors  of 
less  responsible  times  to  be  more  dis- 
creet. 

"Several  Guildlialls,  witli  groined 
roofs,  tell  of  those  corporations  of  mer- 
chants who  here  met  for  business  or 
feasting,  and  are  now  passed  away 
with  the  commerce  of  Reval :  with  the 
exception,  however,  of  the  corps  of  the 
Schwarzen  Jliiujiter,  hs  Friers  tctes- 
no/res—so  called  probably  from  tluir 
patron  saint,  St.  Mauritius— a  military 
club  of  young  merchants  formed  in 
1343  for  the  defence  of  the  city.  These 
were  highl}- considered — were  endowed 
by  the  ]Masti'rs  of  thv  Order  with  the 
rank  and  privileges  of  a  military  body 
— wore  a  peculiar  uniform — had  par- 
ticular inauguration  ceremonies  and 
usages— and  bore  their  banner,  ^  aid 
vincenduia  ant  moriendum,'  on  many 
(►ccasions  most  gallantly  against  the 
numberless  foes  who  coveted  the  riches 
of  Reval. 

"  The  chief  edifice  where  they  held 
their  meetings  is  adorned  in  front 
with  a  INIoor's  head  and  other  armorial 
pieces  of  sculpture ;  but  within  it  has 
been  stripped  of  all  antiquity,  except- 
ing the  archives  of  the  Order,  and 
portraits  of  the  various  crowned  heads 
liussia. — 18G8. 


and  ]Mahters  of  the  Livonian  Order 
who  have  held  Esthonia  in  their  sway. 
The  altarpiece  from  the  convent  of  St. 
lirigitta — a  magnificent  ruin  upon  the 
sea-coast  in  full  view  of  Reval — is  also 
})laced  here,  being  a  piece  in  3  com- 
jiartments,  in  the  Van  Eyck  manner, 
comprising  God  the  Father,  with  the 
Infant  Saviour  in  the  centre — the  Vir- 
gin on  the  one  hand,  the  Baptist  on 
itlie  other — and  greatly  recalling  por- 
tions of  the  famous  altarpiece  painted 
for  St.  Bavon's  church  at  Ghent.  On 
the  ba'k  of  the  two  wings,  and  closing 
over  the  centre-piece,  is  the  subject  of 
the  Annunciation — 2  graceful  figures 
in  grey,  of  later  Italian  date." 

"'  This  city  is  further  strewn  Avitli 
the  ruined  remains  of  convents  and 
monasteries  of  considerable  interest, 
though  too  much  choked  with  jjarasi- 
tical  buildings  to  be  seen  to  any  ad- 
vantage. Tlie  outer  circumference  is 
bound  in  with  icalls  and  towers  of 
every  irregular  form,  most  of  which 
have  significant  names,  as  for  instance, 
'  der  Jaiuje  llerrmdun,'  a  singularly 
beautiful  and  lofty  circular  tower 
crowning  the  Dom ;  and  '  die  dicke 
Marguerite^'  a  corpident  erection  lower 
in  the  town. 

*•  The  Dom  is  equally  stored  with 
traces  of  olden  times,  consisting  of  the 
old  Castle,  which  encloses  an  immense 
quadrangle,  and  is  in  part  appropriated 
to  the  governor's  residence ;  the  Dom 
Churchy  a  building  of  incongruous 
architecture,  is  filled  with  tombs  of 
great  interest,  of  the  Counts  de  la 
Gardie,  Thurn,  Horn,  &c.,  beneath 
which  lie  the  vaults  of  several  cor- 
porations of  trade,  variously  indicated 
— the  shoemakers'  company  by  the 
bas-relief  of  a  colossal  boot  in  the 
pavement — the  butchers'  by  an  ox's 
head,  &c.  Further  on  is  the  Ritter- 
schafts  Hans,  or  Hotel  de  la  Noblesse, 
where  the  Landrathe  assemble,  the 
Landtag  is  held,  and  all  the  business 
connected  with  the  aristocracy  of  the 
province  conducted.  Every  family  of 
matriculated  nobility  has  here  its 
shield  of  arms  and  date  of  patent ; 
while  on'  tablets  of  white  marble  are 
inscribed  the  names  of  all  the  noble 
Esthonians  who  served  in  the  French 


172 


Boute  4. — Beval,^ 


Sect.  I. 


campaign,  and  on  tables  of  black 
marble  the  names  of  those  who  fell ; 
and  truly  Esthonia  has  not  been 
niggard  of  her  best  blood. 

"  Eeval  is  entered  by  7  gates  ;  they 
arc  all  picturesque  erections,  decorated 
with  various  historical  mementos,  the 
arms  of  tlic  Danish  domination,  the 
simple  cross  of  the  order  on  the  muni- 
cipal shield  of  the  city. 

"  In  the  summer  there  is  an  annual 
fair,  called  the  JahrniarJct,  which  is 
hold  bcneatli  the  old  elm-trees  before 
tlie  church  of  St.  Nicholas — a  most 
interesting  scene  to  the  stranger — and 
forms  the  morning  lounge  of  the  inlia- 
bitants  during  that  season  of  the  year. 
In  the  evening  Catherinthnl  is  the 
favourite  promenade.  This  is  an  Im- 
I)erial  Lustsrhhss,  or  palace,  at  a  little 
distance  from  the  town,  surrounded 
with  line  trees  and  well-kept  grounds, 
or  what  is  here  termed  'ein  superber 
Park,'  whicli  during  G  weeks  of  the 
summer  months  is  thronged  with 
fa.sliionable  groups,  who  eat  ices,  drink 
chocolate,  talk  scandal,  and  make  love, 
as  people  do  elsewhere. 

"  This  residence,  which  is  literally 
a  bower  of  verdure  redeemed  from  a 
waste  of  sand,  is  the  pleasant  legacy 
of  IV'tcr  the  Great  to  tlic  city  of  Keval. 
Being  a  frequent  visitor  to  lleval,  it 
was  here  that  he  first  erected  a  modest 
little  house  bencatli  the  rocks  of  the 
Laaksberg,  from  tlie  windows  of  wliicli 
ho  could  overlook  his  infant  fleet 
riding  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  and  wliich 
still  exists.  But  a  few  years  previous 
to  his  death,  the  present  palace,  witliin 
a  stone's  throw  of  his  Duteli  house, — 
for  all  I'eter  tlie  Cireat's  own  private 
domiciles  testify  wlience  he  drew  liis 
lirst  ideas  of  comfort, — was  construct- 
ed, whicli  he  surrounded  with  plea- 
sure-grounds, and  presented  to  his 
consort  by  the  name  of  Catherinthal. 
It  has  been  the  temporary  sojourn  of 
all  the  crowned  heads  of  Ilussia  in 
succession ;  and  the  treaty  of  peaco 
concerning  Silesia,  between  the  two 
most  powerful  women  of  coeval  times 
whom  the  world  has  ever  known — 
Maria  Theresa  of  Austria  and  Cathe- 
rine II.  of  Russia— was  here  ratified 
in  174G. 


"  The  population  of  Rcval,  which  is 
18,000  (now  25,000),  is  greatly  swelled 
during  the  summer  by  hundreds  of 
Petersburgians  that  come  here  to 
bathe.  The  steamers  from  the  capital 
are  constantly  plying,  so  overloaded 
with  passengers  as  greatly  to  neutral- 
ize accommodations  otherwise  good." 

"  A  day  may  be  profitably  and 
agreeably  spent  in  driving  to  Tadis 
Klostei'y  distant  13  m.  from  the  town, 
one  of  the  finest  ruins  in  Esthonia. 

*•  This  monastery  is  mentioned  in 
the  beginning  of  the  14tli  centy., 
when,  owing  to  starvation  without  its 
walls,  and  doubtless  a  very  comfort- 
able life  within,  the  peasants  rose  in 
numbers  around,  murdered  the  abbot 
and  monks,  and  so  devastated  the 
place,  that  in  1448  it  received  a  fur- 
ther and  full  consecration  at  the  hands 
of  Ileinrich  Baron  Uxkiill,  Bishop  of 
Reval ;  at  which  time  it  was  ordained, 
that  whoever  should  in  any  way  en- 
rich or  benefit  this  Kloster  of  Padis, 
should,  for  any  sins  ho  might  commit, 
liave  40  days  of  penance  struck  oft". 
Hence,  perhaps,  arose  the  peculiar 
repute  and  custom  in  the  sale  of  in- 
dulgences which  this  monastery  en- 
joyed."— Letters  from  the  Baltic 

Iveval  has  an  arsenal,  and  the  fleet 
from  Cronstadt  rendezvous  here  at 
times.  Ilussian  vessels  of  war  arc 
generally  stationed  in  the  harbour. 

The  club  of  the  nobility  and  savans 
contains  some  handsome  apartments, 
and  a  collection  ofportraits  of  Swedish 
sovereigns,  arms,  and  relics  of  remark- 
able persons.  The  English,  French, 
and  CJerman  nc\ppap('rs  are  taken  in 
here,  and  a  stranger  may  readily  pro- 
cure admittance.  At  Pcval  is  the 
mausoleum  of  Admiral  (^reig,  the  hero 
of  Chesme,  who  was  buried  here  with 
great  jionip  in  178S. 

St.  Pi'tersburg  maybe  reached  from- 
Ilcval  by  steamer  in  24  hours. 


Russia. 


Uoutc  5. — Novgorod, 


173 


BOUTE  5. 

ST.    PETERSBUKd   TO   NOVGOEOD  THE 
GKEAT. 

This  is  an  excursion  that  every  tra- 
veller who  wishes  to  study  Russian 
antiquities  should  make. 

The  journey  is  performed  in  summer 
by  train  to  Volhliora  Stat.  (secRte.  G). 
Fare,  6  rs.  15  c.  Steamer  from  Volk- 
hova  to  Xovgorotl,  and  vice  versa,  to 
correspond.  Between  4  and  5  hours 
by  river.  In  winter,  passengers  for 
Novgorod  leave  the  train  at  Chuchva 
(on  Moscow  line,  75  m.  from  St.  I'eters- 
burg),  and  engage  sledges,  which  are 
always  in  waiting,  for  Novgorod,  about 
45  m.  distant.  In  either  case  the  trip 
need  not  occupy  more  than  2  or  3 
daj's.  Stations  at  Chudova  and  Volk- 
hova  small.  Principal  Juu  at  Nov- 
gorod, "  ]3erezinskaya  Gostinnitsa," 
in  the  main,  or  Moscow  Street.  Very 
good,  clean  rooms,  opened  in  18G7; 
prices  moderate.  The  inn  close  to  the 
steamboat  pier  not  :is  good.  Travellers 
are  recommended  to  take  a  conmiis- 
sioner  or  servant  with  them. 

NovGonoD.  Pop.  18.000,  on  the  Volk- 
hof  river.  The  glorious  history  of  this 
old  city  may  be  read  in  its  churches, 
the  only  surviving  monuments  of  its 
former  greatness.  It  was  the  cratlleof 
the  Russian  empire,  for  the  Rurik 
dynasty  first  settled  there  in  862.  The 
Grand-ducal  throne  having  been  soon 
after  removed  to  Kief,  the  citizens  of 
Novgorod  grew  in  power  as  the  princes 
of  the  house  of  Rurik  weakened  their 
dominion  by  constant  wars  in  dis- 


putes relative  to  the  right  of  succes- 
sion. From  1136  the  Novgorodians 
ac(|uired  the  right  of  calling  in  princes 
to  govern  them  according  to  the  laws 
of  the  city,  and  of  "  showing  them  the 
way  out  of  it"  when  they  gave  no 
satisfaction.  Their  popular  assem- 
blies, or  Veche',  strengthened  by  the 
subdivision  of  Russia  into  petty  prin- 
cipalities, assumed  still  greater  autho- 
rity during  the  Mongol  invasion. 
They  devised  in  open  council  common 
measures  of  protection.  The  dominion 
of  the  invaders  once  established  over 
the  greater  part  of  Russia,  with  the 
exception  of  Novgorod,  which  the 
Tartars  never  reached,  the  princes, 
who  had  always  sought  merely  their 
own  personal  advantage,  were  gained 
over  to  the  camps  of  tlie  Klians  by 
bribes  and  ofters  of  sup^port  against 
their  iniruly  people,  who  were  thus 
driven  into  still  stronger  union.  Re- 
lying on  the  suj)port  of  his  Tartar 
ju-otectors  and  the  power  of  his  officers, 
Yaroslaf,  Great  Prince  of  Novgorod  in 
1270,  neglected  the  conditions  on 
whicli  he  had  ascended  the  throne, 
pursiied  a  despotic  course,  and  became 
deaf  to  the  popular  voice.  The  bell  of 
the  Veche  soon  struck  the  hour  of  his 
downfall.  The  citizens  assembled  at 
the  Cathedral  of  St.  Sophia,  and  at 
once  resolved  to  depose  Yaroslaf,  and 
to  put  his  favourites  to  death.  The 
chief  of  these  was  killed,  the  others 
fled  t<i  sanctuary,  leaving  their  houses 
to  be  pillaged  and  razed  to  the  ground 
by  the  angry  populace.  An  act  of 
accusation  was  brought  against  the 
I'rince  in  the  name  of  Novgorod. 
"Why,"  asked  the  citizens,  "didst 
thou  take  possession  of  the  palace  of 
IMortkinitch  ?  Why  didst  thou  take 
silver  from  the  boyars  Nikifor,  Robert 
and  Bartholomew  ?  AVhy  didst  thou 
send  away  the  foreigners  (merchants) 
who  lived  peaceably  among  us  ?  Why 
do  thy  birdcatchers  (ducks  were  then 
plentiful)  deprive  us  of  our  river  Volk- 
hof,  and  thy  huntsmen  of  our  fields? 
Let  thy  oppression  now  cease!  Go 
where  thou  willst ;  we  shall  find  an- 
other prince." 

"  Wlio  can  resist  Gotl  and  the  Great 
Novgorod  ?  "  was  a  proverbial  cxpres- 

K  2 


174 


Boufe  5.- 


-Novgorod, 


Sect.  I. 


Eussia. 


Boute  5. — Novgorod. 


175 


slon  of  the  time,  evidently  foumleil  on 
a  consciousness  of  popular  power.  Tlu' 
•'  Lord  Great  Novgorod,"  as  the  State 
was  quaintly  styled,  exercised  all  the 
rights  of  sovereignty  until  John  III. 
incorporated  it  with  the  Grand 
Duchy  of  Moscow  in  1478.  The  an- 
cient trade  of  Novgorod  with  the  Han- 
seatic  towns  had  maile  it  a  centre 
of  immense  wealtli.  It  once  covered 
an  area  of  40  miles  in  circumference. 
The  tirst  Russian  mon<'y  was  coined 
there  in  the  early  part  of  tlie  15th 
centy.  John  III.  was  obliged  to  re- 
move more  than  SOOO  hoyars  and  50 
families  of  merchants  to  Moscow,  be- 
fore he  could  extinguisli  the  spirit  of 
independence  whicli  so  many  centuries 
of  freedom  and  i)ro.sj)erity  iiad  fostered. 
The  Veche'  bell  was  likewise  carried 
away  to  Moscow,  with  countless  trea- 
sures in  gold,  silver,  and  precious 
ijtones.  However,  a  still  sterner  fate 
awaited  the  city.  John  the  Terrible, 
informed  that  the  Novgorodians  in- 
tended to  submit  to  the  Prince  of 
Lithuania,  suddenly  appeared  on  the 
Volkhof  with  an  army  of  Opritchniks, 
who  sacked  the  churches  and  monas- 
teries, and  during  an  occupation  of 
six  weeks  threw  hundreds  an<l  thou- 
sands of  the  irduibitants  into  the  river. 
During  the  interregnum  that  followed 
the  extinction  of  the  liurik  line,  Nov- 
gorod, and  its  '*  younger  brotlier " 
Pskof,  contemplated  a  union  luider  a 
prince  of  Sweden.  This  was  the  last 
ineffectual  ettbrt  made  by  the  Nov- 
gorodians to  re-establish  their  ancient 
self-government.  It  is  now  the  chief 
town  of  a  province  of  the  same  name. 

The  principal  sights  are  : — 
1.  Cathedral  of  St.  Sojihia,  anciently 
"the  heart  and  soul  of  Great  Novgo- 
rod." Here  tlie  princes  were  crowned, 
and  in  front  of  it  the  Vcche's  were  oc- 
casionally held.  The  first  cathedral  at 
Novgorod  was  built  in  989.  The  pre- 
sent edifice  was  originally  erected  in 
1045,  by  the  grandson  of  St.  Wladimir. 
It  was  constructed  by  artisans  from 
Constantinopl(\  after  the  model  of 
Ji^stihian's  Temple.  It  was  pillaged 
A.D.  1 005  by  the  Prince  of  Polotsk, 
and  again  in  1570  by  the  Opritchniks 


I  of  John  the  Terrible.  The  Swedes, 
under  Delagardie,  in  1611,  after  kill- 
ing two  of  the  priests,  destroyed  the 
charter  granted  to  the  cathedral  in 
1504.  The  frcbcoes  were  executed  in 
the  12th  centy.,  but  the  entire  build- 
ing, both  within  and  without,  was 
complet<.'ly  renovated  and  restored  be- 
tween 1820  and  1837.  As  one  of  the 
oMest  churches  in  Russia,  its  architec- 
ture will  aflbrd  an  interesting  study. 
The  cupola  is  supjiorted  by  eight  mas- 
sive quadrangular  pillars.  There  are 
two  more  similar  pillars  at  the  altar. 
Five  chapels,  or  altjirs.  stand  within  the 
cathedral,  added  at  various  periods 
from  the  12th  to  the  KJth  centuries. 
Tlie  high-altar  is  of  oak,  and  is  ap- 
]>roached  by  two  stone  .steps.  The 
mosaic-work  on  the  w^all  beliind  the 
altar  is  considered  to  be  cotemjxirane- 
ous  with  the  building  of  the  cathedral, 
and  conse(|uently  Py/antine  work. 

The  Ikonostas  was  put  uj)  in  1341. 
Tlie  most  remarkable  images  in  it 
are: — 1.  The  Saviour,  a  copy  of  an 
ancient  image  attributed  to  the  Greek 
Emperor  Emanuel,  taken  to  the  Cathe- 
dral of  the  Assumption  at  Moscow  in 
1570.  2.  St.  Sophia,  a  copy,  of  the 
same  date  as  the  church,  of  a  Bvzan- 
tine  image.  3.  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paid, 
brouglit,  according  to  local  tradition, 
from  Khersonesus,  together  with  some 
celebrated  crosses  now  in  the  Cathedral 
of  the  Assumption,  by  St.  AVladimir. 
The  remaining  images,  15  in  nundjcr, 
are  of  greater  or  less  antiquity.  On 
pillars  above  the  choir  are  fresco  re- 
presentations of  canonized  princes  and 
ecclesiastics. 

The  chief  shrines  ore:— 1.  Of  St. 
Anne,  daughter  of  King  Olaf  of 
Sweden,  and  consort  of  Prince  Yoro- 
slaf  I.  She  was  the  first  to  set  an  ex- 
anqtle  of  taking  the  veil,  according  to 
the  custom  of  widowed  empresses  in 
Byzantium.  She  died  in  1050.  2.  In 
a  niche  of  the  same  wall  lie  the 
remains  of  St.  "Vladimir,  sou  of  Yaro- 
slaf  and  Anne,  and  founder  of  the 
cathedral,  who  died  a.i>.  1052.  These 
relies  were  placed  there  in  1G52.  3. 
St.  Nikita,  Archbishop  of  Novgorod, 
reposes  in  a  silver  shrine.  He  was 
canonized   for   his  great   piety.      Hia 


( 


prayers  extinguished  the  flames  which 
once  tlireatened  Novgorod  with  de- 
struction, and  brought  down  rain  on 
the  parched  earth.  Obiit  1108.  4.  At 
the  S.  wall  of  the  high-altar  stands  an 
empty  reddish  slate  tomb,  and  over  it 
a  bronze  shrine,  in  which  repose  the 
remains  of  St.  Mstislaf  "  the  Brave," 
Prince  of  Novgorod,  who  obtained 
great  renown  in  the  war  for  the  succes- 
sion, and  was  prevailed  upon  by  the 
Novgorodians  to  become  their  prince. 
He  freed  I'skof  from  its  enemies,  and 
compelled  the  Chiids,  or  Finns,  to  pay 
tribute.  In  the  midst  of  his  greatness 
he  was  overtaken  by  disease,  and, 
having  caused  himself  to  be  carried 
into  the  Cuthednd  of  St.  Sophia,  took 
the  Holy  Communion  before  the  assem- 
bled citizens,  and,  after  commending 
his  wife  and  his  3  sons  to  the  care  of 
his  brothers,  crossed  his  once  mighty 
arms  on  his  brta.st  and  expired,  14th 
.Tune,  1180.  5.  In  the  N.  chapel,  in  a 
rich  silver  shrine  (1856),  lies  exposed 
the  body  of  John  Archbishop  of  Nov- 
gorml,  who  died  1186.  There  are  10 
other  shrines  of  saints  who  lived  be- 
tween 1030  and  1653.  Nineteen  arch- 
bishops and  ]Metroi»olitans,  between 
1223  and  1818,  are  also  buried  within 
the  cathedral,  together  with  many 
princes.  Only  2  of  the  inscriptions  on 
the  tombs  of  the  latter  are  now  legible ; 
they  record  the  deaths  of  Prince  Mstis- 
laf Rostislavitch  in  1178,  and  of  Yasili 
Mstislavitch  a.d.  1218. 

Among  other  interesting  objects 
within  the  eh.  may  be  mentioned  :  1. 
The  throne  of  the  Tsar  and  Metro- 
politan, erected  in  1560  ;  2.  I^arge  brass 
cliandeliers,  suspended  in  1600.  Tlie  2 
doors  which  open  into  the  Chapel  uf  the 
Nativity  are  very  remarkable.  They 
are  of  oak,  overlaid  with  metallic 
plates  half  an  inch  in  thickness,  and 
bearing  various  devices  and  scrolls. 
Tradition  says  they  were  brought  from 
the  ancient  town  of  Siegtoun,  in 
Sweden,  pillaged  in  1187  by  pirates, 
among  whom  were  some  Novgorodians. 
The  Korsun  (or  Khersonesus)  door,  at 
the  W.  entrance,  is  likewise  of  wood, 
ornamented  with  bronze,  bearing  54 
inscriptions  in  Slavonian  and  Latin. 
The   former  are  supposed  to  be  of  the 


14th  centy.,  and  the  latter  in  the 
Gothic  style  of  the  13th  or  14th 
centy.  It  is  in  dispute  whether 
this  door  came  from  Khersonesus  or 
from  INIagdeburg.  Another  account 
states  that  the  door  was  carried  in- 
to Poland  by  Boleslas  II.,  when  it 
was  placed  in  a  Roman  Catholic 
church,  and  subsequently  transported 
to  Novgorod. 

The  Safristy,  which  is  in  a  room  at 
the  top  of  the  cathedral,  contains 
several  ecclesiastical  objects  of  intere^t, 
although  the  more  ancient  treasures 
have  been  removed,  stolen,  or  burnt  at 
various  periods.  There  is  a  printed 
copy  of  the  Gospels  in  a  cover  of  the 
16th  centy.  The  mitres,  croziers,  and 
panagias  are  of  the  16th  and  17th 
cents.  Among  the  antiquities,  not 
ecclesiastical,  are:  1.  A  cap  of  main- 
tenance, of  wood,  covered  with  silk, 
supposed  to  have  belonged  to  the 
princes  of  Novgorod ;  2.  Archbishop's 
seal ;  3.  Silk  standard,  with  a  mono- 
gram of  the  Saviour's  name — tradition 
says  it  was  carried  before  the  ancient 
Governors  of  Novgorod  ;  4.  Large  silk 
standard  of  Novgorod,  presented  by 
the  Tsars  Peter  and  John  in  1693;  5. 
A  collection  of  small  silver  coins  from 
John  III.  to  Peter  I. ;  6.  Old  dishes  of 
German  work. 

Library. — This  was  one  of  the  richest 
in  Russia,  but  in  1859  the  MSS.  were 
removed  to  St.  Petersburg.  A  collection 
of  20  letters  from  Peter  the  Great  to 
Catherine  I.,  and  his  son  Alexis,  &c., 
is  still  preserved  there. 

2.  llie  Kremlin,  or  stone  wall,  in  the 
centre  of  the  city,  was  founded  1302, 
rebuilt  1490,  and  repaired  in  1698  and 
1818.  A  pavilion,  in  a  garden  wdiich 
occupies  the  bed  of  tlie  old  moat,  is 
raised  on  the  spot  where  IMartha,  sur- 
named  the  "  Posadnitsa,"  or  governor 
(in  the  female  gender),  lived  in  the 
middle  of  the  15th  centy.  The  cathe- 
dral, the  archiepiscopal  jjalace,  and 
several  churches,  stand  within  the 
walls. 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  in  the 
limits  of  this  Handbook  any  other  of 
ihe  numerous  churches  and  monasteries 
with  which  old  Novgorod  is  adorned. 


176 


Ronfc  C\~St.  Pefrrshurg  io  Moscow. 


Sect.  I. 


Tlicy  are  mostly  of  parent  antiquity,  and 
will  fully  repay  a  minute  inspection 
and  inquiry  on  the  spot.  A  work  by 
Count  M.  Tolstoy,  1862,  in  the  Kussian 
language,  contains  tlie  most  conqdote 
information. 

Travellers  will  see  tlie  great  Monu- 
ment^ erected  in  18<J2,  to  commemorate 
the  1000th  anniversary  of  the  existence 
of  the  Kussian  Empire.  The  tigures 
on  it  are  emblematical  of  tlie  several 
l)eriods  of  Russian  history.  The  design 
is  by  a  Russian  academician,  but  it  was 
cast  by  tlie  English  firm  of  Nicholls 
and  Plincke,  of  the  '*  English  Maga- 
zine," at  St.  Petersburg. 

A  band  plays  twice  a  week  during 
summer  in  the'Snmmer  Garden,  which 
is  unfortunately  not  kept  in  very  good 
order. 

An  excursion  might  be  made  across 
the  llmen  lake  in  the  steamer  which 
leaves  every  other  day  for  "  Staraya 
Russ,'*  a  fashionable  watcring-i)lnce 
whore  salt  batliji  are  taken.  'JMic 
steamer  crosses  in  about  3i  hrs.  Inns, 
tolerably  good.  In  winter  the  lake 
is  crossed  in  a  sledge,  but  Staraya 
Russ  is  not  worth  seeing  at  that 
season. 

Travellers  should,  however,  not  fail 
to  see  the  old  Monastery  of  Ytmjef, 
near  Novgorod.  It  is  situated  2  m. 
out  of  Novgorod,  between  the  Volkhof 
and  Kniajevka  rivers,  on  an  elevation 
of  considerable  picturesque  eft'ect. 
Having  Ix^en  founded  in  1031,  by 
Yaroslaf,  son  of  Vladimir,  it  is  one  of 
the  most  ancient  and  imi)ortant  mo- 
nasteries in  Russia.  There  are  3  chs. 
within  it;  that  dedicated  to  George 
the  Martyr  is  the  oldest,  having  been 
erected  in  1119.  They  were  repaired 
in  1807,  at  the  expense  of  Countess 
Orlof  of  TchesniL-,  who  also  caused  to 
be  built  the  handsome  belfry.  Among 
the  treasures  which  this  monastery 
possesses  are  the  charters  given  to  it 
in  1128  and  1132,  an  altar-cloth  of 
1449,  and  a  cross  studded  with  pearls 
and  precious  stones,  presented  in  1 599. 


ROUTE  0. 

ST.   PETERSnURG  TO   MOSCOW. 

By  rail  in  20  hrs. ;  fare  19  rs.  and 
13  rs.     All  luggage  charged.* 

This  line.  403  m.  in  length,  was 
constructed  by  the  GoviTument.  The 
principal  stations  are  solidly  and 
handsomely  built.  The  refresliment- 
rooms  arc  abundantly  supplied ;  and 
passengers  have  a  liberal  allowance 
of  time  for  dinner,  tea,  and  suw^er. 
The  first  stat.  is. 

Kolplno.  There  is  a  very  large  steam 
factory  here,  founded  by  Peter  the 
Great.  INIarine  engines  tor  the  navy 
are  made  here,  and  guns  cast  and 
bored. 

Luban,  the  first  large  stat.  (It  will 
suffice  to  mention  the  principal  st<^p- 
pages  or  places  to  which  any  interest 
attaches.) 

Chudova.  The  Volkhof  river  will  be 
passed  here.  It  flows  from  the  lako 
llmen  into  that  of  Ladoga,  and  is  navi- 
gable for  barges  ak.ng  its  entire  course. 
Station  for  winter  route  to  Novgorod 
the  Great. 

Volhhova,  next  stat.,  at  foot  of  tho 
bridge.  Steamers  f<n-  Novgorod  from 
hence  in  summer.    See  Rtc.  5. 

Malo-Vyshera.  15U  v.  from  St. 
Petersburg.  The  river  Msta,  which 
rises  in  the  Valdai  hills,  and  flows  into 
lake  llmen,  will  ))e  passed  halfway  be- 

*  Travellers  must  ascertain  the  chancres  that 
have  been  made  in  the  nianagemout  ot  ihe  line 
since  its  hale  to  the  "Graude  Six:ielc  des 
CheniUifl  de  Fer  liussca." 


Russia. 


Itoute  6. — St.  Petersburg  to  Moscoio. 


177 


tween  this  and  the  next  station.  Im- 
mediately outside  the  station  is  the 
immense  iron  bridge,  built  over  a 
ravine,  on  the  American  principle, 
over  a  height  of  190  ft.  Another 
bridge,  nearly  as  large,  over  the  Msta, 
will  be  passed. 

OhulofUa.  2  stats,  beyond  is 
Valdai,  near  the  small  tcAvn  of  that 
name  on  the  Valdai  Lako  (Pop.  4000;, 
celebrated  for  its  bells,  which  may  be 
purchased  at  the  stat.  They  are  small, 
and  when  attached  to  harness  have 
a  very  harmonious  effect.  Scythes 
and  sickles  are  also  manufactured 
here.  Scenery  wooded  and  hilly.  The 
Dwina,  Volga,  and  Volkhof  rise  in  the 
Valdai  hills.  A  monastery  stands  on 
one  of  the  islands  in  the  lake.  It  is 
called  the  Iverski,  and  was  founded  in 
1052  by  the  patriarch  Nicon.  A  copy 
of  the  image  of  the  Iberian  Mother  of 
(lod,  brought  from  IMount  Atlios  in 
1G48,  now  at  Moscow,  adorns  the  altar- 
screen  of  the  principal  chapel.  The 
Patriarch  frequently  came  here. 
Bolofforo.  2  stats,  beyond  is 
Vyshni-Volochol;  330  v.  from  St. 
Petersburij:,  town  in  province  of  Tver, 
on  the  river  Tsna.  (Pop.  14,000.) 
A  canal  which  rises  here,  by  joining 
several  rivers  and  lakes  unites  the 
Volga  and  the  Neva,  and  the  Cas- 
l)ian  and  the  Baltic.  The  rly.  and  the 
improvement  of  a  rival  canal  system, 
by  way  of  the  Svir  and  Sheksna  rivers, 
have  considerably  lessened  the  import- 
ance of  tlic  town. 

Spirova.  2  stats,  beyond  is 
Odai^hliof,  nearest  i3oint  (40  v.)  to 
Torjok,  a  town  of  10,000  Inhab.,  where 
Russia  leather  is  embroidered  with 
gold,  silver,  and  silk  thread  for  slip- 
pers, cushions,  bags,  &c.  Specimens 
of  these  wares  will  be  seen  at  the  stat., 
l)ut  they  are  as  cheaply  procured  at 
St.  I'etersburg  and  INIoscow.  Torjok 
is  the  farthest  point  in  this  direction 
reached  by  the  French  in  1812. 

Tcety  447^  v.  from  St.  Petersburg, 
chief  towni  of  province.  (Pop.  20,000.) 
Miller  a  Jfotel,  the  old  posting-house, 
aflbrds  excellent  accommodation. 

Here  the  traveller  crosses  the  Vol- 
ga, and  has  the  first  glinq)se  of  that 
mighty  stream,  which,  rising  47  m. 


S.W.  from  Valdai,  now  becomes  navi- 
gable, after  flowing  through  several 
small  lakes.  Steamers  ply  hence  to 
Astrakhan,  a  distance  of  about  2150  m. 
The  town  was  founded  in  1182,  and 
was  the  seat  of  a  principality.  It  is 
prettily  situated  on  the  bank  of  the 
river,  and  stands  175  ft.  above  tho 
level  of  the  water.  A  cathedral,  re- 
built in  1682,  and  a  very  handsome 
belfry  of  3  tiers,  arc  the  most  con- 
spicuous objects.  Many  of  the  princes 
of  Tver  and  their  consorts  (between 
1272  and  1408)  lie  buried  there.  The 
church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  built  in 
1584,  is  a  fine  remnant  of  ancient 
Russian  architecture.  There  are  secret 
chambers  in  the  upper  story  where 
the  clergy  and  citizens  concealed  their 
treasure  in  time  of  danger.  The 
Otrotch  Uspenski  Monastery,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Volga  and  Tvertsa, 
was  the  prison  of  the  Metropolitan 
Philip,  whose  cell  is  still  shown  {see 
Cathedral  of  Assumption,  Moscow). 
In  this  he  was  murdered  by  Maluta, 
an  agent  of  John  the  Terrible,  who, 
after  connnitting  the  crime,  announced 
to  the  monks  that  the  venerable  pre- 
late had  died  from  the  fumes  of  tho 
stove. 

There  is  a  very  considerable  trade 
in  grain  and  iron,  shipped  hence  to  St. 
Petersburg  by  the  Tvertsa  river  and 
several  canals.  The  iron  is  brought 
from  the  Ural  to  be  manufactured  at 
Tver  into  nails,  and  in  that  shape  much 
of  it  returns  to  the  place  of  original 
production. 

Klin,  town  in  province  of  Moscow ; 
5000  Inhab.     2  stats,  beyond  is 

Krulova  Stat,  for  Monastery  of  New 
Jerusalem  or  Voskresenski  {Resurrec- 
tion), which  is  about  14  m.  distant. 
Post-horses  and  either  a  tarantass  or 
a  common  cart  may  \:>c  had  here  to 
take  the  traveller  to  the  monastery 
for  a  charge  of  3  to  4  rubles,  there  and 
back,  returnmg  next  day. 

Travellers  should  avoid  taking  a  com- 
mon cart,  for  the  road  is  bad  and  dusty, 
and  they  should  brhig  with  them  a 
basket  of  provisions. 

Tolerable  accommodation  will  be 
obtained  at  the  hostelry  attached  to 
the  monastery,  the  last  house  on  the 


178 


Boute  6.— 5^  Pefershurg  to  Moscow. 


Sect.  I. 


left,  approaching  the  gate  of  the  mo- 
nastery. 

Au  important  page  of  the  ecclesias- 
tical history  of  Russia  may  be  read 
here.  We  come  upon  the  life  and 
doings  of  the  Patriarch  Nicon,  who  laid 
the  foundation  of  the  monastery  in 
1657.  On  his  frequent  journeys  to  the 
Iberian  Convent  at  Valdai  ho  always 
stopped  at  the  village  of  Voskreseiisk. 
and  in  1G55  built  a  ch.  on  some  land 
which  he  purchased  there.  The  Tsar 
Alexis,  present  at  its  consecration, 
named  the  ch.,  at  the  desire  of  Nioon, 
the  New  Jerusalem.  The  Patriarch 
then  sent  for  a  model  of  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre  at  Jerusalem,  which 
he  set  about  to  imitate.  Tlie  neigh- 
bouring accidents  of  country  he  called 
after  various  sacred  sites  in  Palestine. 
The  river  Istra  was  couverted  into  the 
Jordan;  a  brook,  purposely  formed, 
became  the  Kedrou ;  a  neighl)0uring 
village  was  dignified  into  Xazanth  ; 
and  on  the  mound  on  which  the  Tsar 
stood  when  he  bestowed  the  name  of 
New  Jerusalem  he  built  a  chapel  and 
called  it  Eleon. 

But  the  favour  of  the  sovereign  was 
suddenly  withdrawn  from  the  pre- 
late. Nicon  arrogated  to  liimself  a 
power  in  civil  as  well  as  in  ecclesi- 
astical matters,  of  wliich  the  Tsar 
and  his  courtiers  became  jealous.  lie 
also  brought  down  upon  himself  the 
hatred  of  the  clergy,  whom  he  per- 
secuted most  rigorously  fi)r  intemper- 
ance and  other  irregularities.  His  in- 
novations in  the  ritual  of  the  Church, 
induced  by  a  warm  zeal  for  the  ancient 
Churcli  and  Empire  of  Constantinople, 
and  elfected  l)y  a  com.parison  of  more 
correct  service-books  from  Mount 
Atlios,  encountered  the  strongest  op- 
position, and  swelled  the  number  of 
his  enemies.  Tlie  people,  driven  into 
Dissent,  founded  numerous  sects,  whicli 
are  to  this  day  strongly  inimical  to  the 
Orthodox  Churcli  and  jiartly  even  to 
the  State.  He  went  so  far  in  uphold- 
ing the  Byzantine  purity  of  the  liussian 
Church  as  to  seize;  in  the  hous..s  of  tiio 
nobles,  and  destroy,  all  pictures  tliat 
were  not  painted  in  the  conventional 
forms  of  Creek  art.  In  iniiilic  docu- 
ments he  assumetl  a  titl'.-  which  was 


equal  to  that  of  the  sovereign.  But 
at  last  his  enemies  triumphed.  The 
Tsar,  irritated  at  the  insolence  of  the 
I'atriarch,  and  iinnoyed  at  the  unsuc- 
cessful termination  of  a  war  with  the 
I'oles  and  Swedes  which  he  had  un- 
dertaken by  his  advice,  withdrew  his 
friendship,  and  soon  after,  on  a  great 
festival  of  the  Church,  absented  himself 
from  the  cathedral,  in  which  Nicon 
was  wont  to  sermonize  his  royal  master. 
The  Patriarch,  enraged,  threw  otf  his 
ejjiscopal  robes,  resigned  his  crozier, 
and.  attiring  himself  in  the  habit  of  a 
monk,  withdrew,  amid  tlie  expostula- 
tion of  the  j)oi)ulace  and  the  Tsar's 
officers,  to  his  retreat  at  Voskrcsensk. 
But  his  strength  and  greatness  of  mind 
were  not  equal  to  the  occasion.  Ho 
had  ex]>ected  to  see  Alexis  with  tears 
in  his  eyes,  asking  forgiveness,  and 
entreating  liim  not  to  divest  himself  of 
his  high  office.  The  Tsar  never  came, 
and  Nicon  saw,  when  too  late,  that  ho 
had  taken  a  tatiil  stej).  A  INIetropolitan, 
having  been  temporarily  invested  with 
the  Patriarchate,  considered  himself 
justified  in  rei)lacing  Nicon  at  a  cere- 
mony in  which  the  Primate  rode  on  an 
ass  to  typify  Christs  entry  into  Jeru- 
salem ;  the  recluse  of  Voskresensk 
protested  sigainst  wh-at  he  called  a 
usurpation,  under  the  }»lea  that  he  was 
still  a  Patriarch,  with  the  gift  of  the 
Holy  Ghost  to  work  cures,  although 
by  his ovvii  free  will  no  longer  Patriarch 
of  ]Moseow.  In  IGGt,  t>  years  after 
his  resignation,  Nicon  appeared  sud- 
denly at  matins  in  the  Cathedral  of  the 
Assumption,  arrayed  once  more  in  his 
pontifical  robes.  He  wrote  to  the 
Tsar  that,  after  long  fasting  and  much 
])rayer,  he  had  been  told  by  the 
canonize<l  Jonah,  in  a  vision,  to  re- 
sume his  .seat  on  the  throne  of  the 
Patriarchs  of  ^Moscow.  A  council  of 
the  Eastern  Patriiirclis  was  soon  after 
called  at  Moscow  and  presided  over  by 
the  Tsar.  Nicon  was  degraded  and  ba- 
ni.shed  to  the  jNIonastery  of  Therapon- 
ti 'If  in  the  province  of  Novgorod.  In 
IGSl  he  was  pardoned  by  Thcoilorc, 
the  successor  of  Alexis,  but  died  on  his 
voyage  down  the  Volga  to  meet  the 
Tsar. 

It    was    during    this   quarrel    that 


EiiR.sia. 


Route  6. — Moficow:  Hotels, 


179 


Nicon  built  the  greater  part  of  the 
Monastery  of  New  Jerusalem.  From  a 
small  square  tower  beyond  the  Kedron 
he  watched  the  progress  of  the  build- 
ing, which  he  was  never  to  see  com- 
pleted, and  even  worked  as  a  common 
stonemason,  making  bricks  with  his 
own  hands.  He  caused  the  Cliurch  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre  to  be  copied  in  the 
minutest  particulars,  and  it  is  therefore 
more  like  the  old  church  in  which  the 
Crusaders  worshipped  than  is  that  ch. 
itself,  since  it  was  destroyed  by  fire  and 
altered  in  1812.  Nicon's  schemes  for 
the  aggrandisement  of  the  Eussian 
Church  was  indicated  by  the  5  patri- 
archal thrones  of  Constantinople, 
Antioc'h,  Alexandria,  Jerusalem,  and 
iMoscow,  w'hich  will  be  seen  in  the 
Sanctuary.  He  lies  buried  hi  the 
chapel  of  Melchizedek,  at  the  foot  of 
the  (lolgotha,  close  by  the  spot  where, 
in  the  actual  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  lie  the  remains  of  Godfrey 
of  Bouillon.  Over  the  tomb  are  the 
heavy  chains  which  he  wore  round 
his  body,  and  at  his  head  is  the  small 
waxen  j)icture  which  he  carried  about 
with  him  in  all  his  wanderings. 

Many  other  relics  of  the  great  Patri- 
arch are  preserved  in  the  sacristy, 
together  with  his  portrait,  and  that  of 
Alexis.  The  principal  dome  having 
fallen  in  in  172:>,  the  ch.  was  entirely 
restored  by  the  celebrated  architect 
Ilastrelli  in  1750.  For  further  particu- 
lars respecting  this  interesting  monas- 
tery the  traveller  should  consult  Dean 
Stanley's  'Lectures  on  the  Eastern 
Church.' 

A  battle  was  fought  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  monastery,  June  18,  1G98,  be- 
tween (ieneral  Patrick  Gordon  and 
the  rebi'llitnis  Streltzi.  who  were  there- 
ni>on  suppres.sed,  and  decapitated  by 
I'etcr  in  great  numbers. 

The  next  siat.  but  one  is 

Moscow  fPop-  380,000). 

IJotds. — As  at  St.  Petersburg,  so  at 
IMoscow,  a  selection  has  to  be  made 
Ix'tween  the  boarding-house  system  and 
the  better  class  of  Russian  hotels.  If 
the  traveller  speaks  no  French  or  Ger- 
man, and  feels  helpless  witliout  the 
assistance   of  a  landlord  or  landlady 


who  can  speak  his  own  language  and 
that  of  the  natives  of  the  countiy,  he 
should  at  once  drive  to  "Lubiauka" 
street.  Here  again  a  choice  has  to  be 
made  In  the  matter  of  a  boarding-house. 
Unfortunately,  perhaps,  there  are  two 
in  the  same  street,  almost  facing  each 
other,  kept  on  similar  principals,  ofter- 
ing  equal  advantages.  Even  the  names 
of  the  ])roprietors  are  very  nearly  alike, 
with  the  ditierence  only  of  a  vowel. 
We  therefore  only  mention  tlicm  in 
alphabeticid  order,  in  indicating  first 
INIadame  Billet's  house,  and  second 
Mr.  Billot's.  Madame  Billet  has  the 
advantage  of  her  sex  and  parentage, 
for  she  is  English  by  birth;  Mr.  Billot 
is  the  type  of  an  obliging,  serviceable 
landlord,  well  conversant  with  the 
English  language,  and  an  excellent 
guide  to  Moscow.  The  charges  at 
both  establishments  are  similar,  viz. 
•i  rubles  a  day  for  bed  and  board,  and 
a  small  charge  extra  for  servants, 
which  has,  as  usual,  to  be  supple- 
mented. Both  houses  are  princii)ally 
frequented  by  men  of  counnerce,  espe- 
cially in  winter.  The  dinners  are 
good,  substantial,  and  a  la  Russe,  with 
a  few  homely  English  variations.  The 
beds  are  soft  and  clean,  and  the  rooms 
neat.  The  use  of  l*ersian  powder  forms 
an  exception,  not  a  rule.  Tubs  kept 
on  the  premises. 

The  independent  traveller,  who  pre- 
fers a  French  c?t«V//<e  and  an  apartment 
of  greater  luxe,  or  one  who  has  a 
prejudice  against  herding  with  his 
countrymen  abroad,  will  probably  pre- 
fer the  "  Hotel  Dusaux,"  near  the 
Kremlin,  the  *'  Hotel  Chevrier,"  a 
house  of  old  standing,  or  the  '"  Hotel 
de  Dresde,"  in  the  square  on  which 
stiinds  the  Governor's  House.  Du- 
saux's  is  modern  ;  the  charges  there 
are  from  2  rs.  (Gs.)  to  any  other  price 
for  a  bedroom,  or  a  bedroom  and  par- 
lour. Dinners  a  la  carte,  or  at  the  table- 
dliote.  Without  detracting  in  the  least 
from  the  merits  of  the  above  houses,  it 
is  right  to  advise  the  traveller  once 
for  all  to  be  i)rovided,  when  travelling 
in  Russia,  with  remedies  against  in- 
sects of  a  vexatory  disposition. 

Vehicles. — Take  a  drojky  at  the  sta- 
tion, and  leave  the  landlord  to  settle 

K  y 


M  0  S  C  0  W.^-^r-:^ 


1  Ivan  Veliki  Tower.   21  Suhnref  Tower. 
1!  (ireat  IJolL 

3  I'ltUxx 

4  I'reaaury. 
0  Nicholiirt  Palace. 
a  As.suiii))tioii. 
7  Arch.  MHiaol. 
H  AiiiiuiK-mtioiL 
9  IkOltHMucr  Ch. 

10  Sacristy. 

11  Miracle  Muiia.<^t 

12  AHCA-n.sionCom  t. 

13  Arsenal. 

14  St.  IVusii. 
'  1.5  I»l)iicKi  Mesto. 


itATt.  TO  5T.  PCTEBSBCllO. 


fOKoismn  PAnt 


182 


Itonte  C. — Moscow:  Hhtory. 


Sect.  I. 


with  the  driver.  There  aio  also  car- 
riages ill  waitiii;*-.  ''  Billet,"  "  liillot," 
*' Dusaux,"  and  '"Chevrier"  will  be 
sufficient  explanation  as  to  where  you 
want  to  be  driven. 

Commissioners  from  Diisaux's  and 
other  hotels  generally  await  the  train 
from  St.  Petersburg. 

Carriages  can  be  ordered  at  the  hotel 
by  the  day,  at  a  charge  of  5  to  G  rubles 
(ios.  to  VSs.)  per  diem,  with  the  adi'*- 
tion  of  '•  tea-money  "  to  tlie  driver  to 
the  extent  of  another  sliilling.  Tliey 
may  be  kept  out  all  day  and  half  the 
night  with  impunity,  allowing  only 
two  or  three  hours  during  dinner 
for  feeding  tlie  horses.  Drojkies  and 
sledges  are  cheaper. 

Commissioners. — Difficult  to  be  ob- 
tained, especially  if  a  knowledge  of 
the  Engli.sh  language  be  demanded. 
Such  agents  will  be  found  occasionally 
at  the  two  boarding-houses,  but  tiie 
hotels  will  only  he  able  to  supply  a 
French  or  German  valet  tie  place. 

Bussian  liestaurants. — The  dinner 
described  under  the  liead  of  ''  Cuisine 
and  Restaurants"  {vide  Introduc- 
tion), may  be  had  at  the  "  Novo- 
Troitski  Traktir,"  near  the  market, 
visited  by  H.ll.H.  I'rince  Alfred  in 
1862,  and  by  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of 
Wales  in  186C,  or  at  tlie  "  Moskovski 
Traktir,"  close  to  the  Theatre. 


The  City  of  IMoscow. 

The  history  of  the  Russian  provinces 
through  which  the  traveller  has  passed 
on  his  way  to  Moscow  has  reference  to 
that  of  this  ancient  capital;  for,  though 
Novgorod  and  Tver  were  at  one  period 
independent,  each  in  its  turn,  whether 
republic  or  principality,  was  sub- 
jugated by  this  their  more  powerful 
neighbour,  and  in  the  14th  centy. 
Moscow  became  tlie  capital  of  Mus- 
covy; Kief,  and  afterwards  Vladimir, 
having  till  then  enjoyed  that  distinc- 
tion. In  the  early  part  of  the  reign  of 
Basil  II.  it  was  taken  and  ravaged  by 
Tamerlane;  and  later  it  fell  again  into 
the  hands  of  the  Tartars,  who  sacked 
it,  and  put  many  of  the  inhabitants  to 


the  sword.  In  153G  the  town  was 
nearly  consumed  by  fire,  in  which 
2000  of  the  inhabitants  ])erished.  In 
1572  the  Tartars  fired  the  suburbs, 
and,  n  furious  wind  driving  the  flames 
into  the  city,  a  considerable  porticju  of 
it  was  reduced  to  ashes,  and  no  fewer 
than  100,000  persons  perished  in  the 
flames  or  by  the  sword.  In  IGll  a 
great  portion  of  the  city  was  again 
destroyed  l»y  fire,  when  the  Poles  had 
taken  possession  of  it,  under  the  pre- 
tence of  defending  the  inhabitants  from 
the  adheri'iits  of  a  pretender  to  the 
crown.  'I'hei)lague<)f  1771  diminislud 
the  population  by  several  thousands, 
a  decrease  from  which  it  has  never 
recovered.  And,  lastly,  in  1812,  the 
Muscovites  gave  uj)  their  ancient, 
holy,  ami  beautiful  city  to  the  devour- 
ing clement — the  grandest  sacrilico 
ever  made  to  national  feeling.  Tlie 
city  was  the  idol  of  every  Russian's 
heart,  her  shrines  were  to  him  the 
holiest  in  the  empire — hallowed  by 
seven  centuries  of  historical  associa- 
tions. 

But  we  have  to  describe  the  city  as 
it  is,  rather  than  to  revert  to  Russian 
history.  Tiu^  assertion  sometimes 
made,  that  no  city  is  no  irregularly 
built  as  Moscow,  is  in  some  resjieets 
true;  none  of  the  streets  are  straight; 
houses  large  and  small,  public  build- 
ings, churehes,  and  other  edifices  are 
mingled  confusedly  together ;  but  it 
gains  by  this  the  advantage  of  being 
more  picturesque.  The  streets  un- 
dulate continually,  and  thus  ofler  from 
time  to  time  points  of  view  whence 
the  eye  is  able  to  range  over  the  vast 
ocean  of  house-tops,  trees,  an<l  gilded 
and  coloured  domes.  The  profusion 
of  churches,  370  in  number,  is  a  cha- 
racteristic feature  of  the  city.  lUit 
the  architecture  of  Moscow,  since  the 
conflagration  of  1812,  is  not  quite  so 
bi/arre  as,  acc<»rding  to  the  accounts 
of  travellers,  it  was  before  that  event ; 
nev  'rthele.ss  it  is  still  singular  enough. 
In  1813  the  point  chiefly  in  view  was 
to  build,  antl  build  quickly,  rather 
than  to  carry  any  ctrtain  plan  into 
execution ;  the  houses  were  replaced 
with  nearly  the  same  irregularity  with 
respect  to  each  other,  and  the  streets 


Russia. 


Route  6. — Moscoio  :  Buildings. 


183 


became  as  crooked  and  tortuous  as 
before.  The  whole  gained,  therefore, 
little  in  regularity  from  the  fire,  but 
each  individual  house  was  built  in 
much  better  taste,  gardens  became 
more  frequent,  the  majority  of  roofs 
were  made  of  iron  painted  green,  a 
lavish  use  was  made  of  pillars,  and 
even  those  who  could  not  be  profuse 
ere(*ted  more  elegant  cottages. 

Hence  Moscow  has  all  the  charms  of 
a  new  city,  with  the  pleasing  negli- 
gence and  i)icturesque  irregularity  of 
an  old  one.  In  the  streets  we  come  now 
to   a   large  magnificent  palace,  with 
all  the  pomp   of  Corinthian   pillars, 
wrought-iron  trellis-work,  and  magni- 
ficent approaches  and  gateways ;  and 
now  to  a  simple  white w'ashed  house, 
the  abode  of  a  modest  citizen's  family. 
Near  them  stands  a  small  ch.,  with  green 
cupolas  aiul  golden  stars.    Then  comes 
a  row  of  little  yelhjw  wooden  houses, 
and  these  are  succeeded   by  one  of 
the  new  colossal  public   institutions. 
Sometimes  the  road  winds  through  a 
number  of  little  streets,  and  the  tra- 
veller   might    fancy    himself    in     a 
country     town ;     suddenly    it    rises, 
and  he  is  in    a  wide   ''place,"  from 
which    streets     branch     oti'    on    all 
sides,  while  the    eye    wanders   over 
the    forest    of    houses    of    the    great 
capital;  descending  again,  he  comes 
in   the   middle   of  the    town    to    the 
banks  of  the  river.     The  circumvalla- 
tion   of  the   city    is   upwards   of   20 
English   miles  in   extent,  of  a   most 
irregular    form,    more    resembling    a 
trapezium    than    any    other    figure; 
within   this   are   2   nearly  concentric 
circular  lines  of  boulevards,  the  sites 
of   former    fortifications,   the    one   at 
a  distance   of  about  1^  m.  from  the 
Kremlin,  conii)leted  on  both  sides  of 
the   Moskva;  the   internal   one,  once 
the   moat  of  the  Kremlin  and  Kitai 
Ciorod,  with  a  radius  of  about  a  mile, 
spreading  only  on  the  north  of  the 
river,  and  terminating  near  the  sione 
bridge  on  the  one  side,  and  the  Found- 
ling Hospital  on  the  other.    The  river 
enters  the  barrier  of  the  vast  city  to 
\\  liich  it  has  given  a  name  about  the 
central  point  of  the  western  side;  and 
after  winding  round  the  Devichi  con- 


vent like  a  serpent,  and  from  thence 
flowing  beneath  the  battlements  of  the 
Kremlin,  and  receiving  the  scanty 
stream  of  the  Jaousa,  issues  again  into 
the  vast  pLiin,  till  it  meets  the  Oka,  a 
tributary  of  the  mighty  Volga,  which 
it  joins  at  Nijni  Novgorod. 

On  the  N.  of  the  Moskva,  streets  and 
houses,  in  regular  succession,  reach  to 
the  very  barrier ;  and  though  a  vast 
jnoportion  of  ground  is  left  unoc- 
cupied, owing  to  the  enormous  width 
of  the  sti-eets  and  boulevards,  the 
earthen  rampart  may  truly  be  said  to 
gird  in  the  city.  But  in  the  othtr 
quarters,  and  particularly  to  the  S., 
Moscow  can  hardly  be  said  to  extend 
further  than  the  outward  boulevard. 

The  centre  of  this  vast  collection  of 
buildings  is  the  Kremlin,  which  forms 
nearly  a  triangle  of  about  2  Eng.  m. 
in  extent.  On  the  E.  comes  the 
Kitai  Gorod  (Chinese  city),*  which 
still  preserves  its  ancient  fence  of  towers 
and  buttresses.  Encircling  these  2  divi- 
sions, and  itself  bounded  by  the  river 
and  inner  boulevard,  lies  the  Beloi 
Gorod  (white  city).  The  space  en- 
closed between  the  2  circles  to  the  N. 
of  the  jNIoskva,  and  between  the  river 
and  the  outward  boulevard  on  the  S., 
is  called  the  Zemlianoi  Gorod.  Beyond 
the  boulevards  are  the  suburbs. 

Before  entering  the  Kremlin  it  will 
be  well  to  view  it  from  one  or  two 
points  on  the  outside,  and  the  most 
favourable  spot  for  this  purpose,  on  the 
S.  side,  is  the  stone  bridge  across  the 
Moskva;  from  the  river  that  washes 
its  base  the  hill  of  the  Kremlin  rises, 
picturesquely  adorned  with  tuif  and 
shrubs.  The  buildings  appear  set  in  a 
rich  frame  of  water,  verdant  foliage, 
and  snowy  wall,  the  majestic  column 
of  Ivan  Veliki  rearing  itself  high  above 
all,  like  the  axis  round  w  hich  the  wliole 
moves.  The  colours  are  everywhere 
most  lively— red,  white,  green,  gold, 
and  silver.  Amidst  the  confusion  of 
the  numerous  small  antique  edifices, 
the  Bolshoi  Dvorets  (the  large  palace 
built  by  Nicholas)  has  au  imposing 
aspect. 

It  is  time,  howevir,  to  reduce  the 

*  Several  Riissiaa  towns  have  a  "  Cbine>e 
city,"  just  a.s  Calcutta  has  iib  "Cbina  bazaar." 


184 


Boute(). — Moscow :  Kremlin. 


Sect.  I. 


sights  of  Moscow  to  some  kind  of  order. 
Assuming  that  the  traveller's  first  ob- 
ject will  be  to  see  the  Kremlin,  the 
following  particulars  may  be  read  on 
the  spot : — 

Kremlin.— Unman  archajologists  arc 
unable  totrace  the  name  of  the  Kremlin 
to  any  certain  source.  It  is  by  most 
supposed  to  be  derived  from  thellussian 
word  Kremeii  or  sihx,  but  it  occurs  for 
the  lirst  time  in  its  present  form  in  the 
year  144tj.  Originally  part  of  the  site 
now  occupie<l  l:^'  it  was  enclosed  by 
walls  of  oak.  Demetrius  of  the  D(m  laid 
the  foundation  of  stone  walls  in  13G7, 
whicli  resisted  the  Tartars  on  several 
occasions,  and  were  only  seized  by  Tok- 
tamysh  throngh  treaeheiy.  In  1445 
the  Krendin  was  burnt,  and  the  walls 
jind  gates  i)artly  destroyed.  The  in- 
troduction of  artillery  rendered  the  old 
walls,  although  repaired,  no  longer  safe 
against  invaders.  John  III.  invited 
Italians  to  build  new  fortitications  of 
stone,  which  were  accordingly  erected 
between  the  years  1485  and  1492,  and 
subsequently  extended  and  strengtii- 
ened.  Tliese  walls  alone  escaped  the 
ravages  of  a  fire  that  destroyed  the 
whole  of  the  Krendin  in  1737.  They 
are  now  7280  ft.  in  circumference,  and 
pierced  by  5  gates,  the  principal  of 
which,  the  Spaski  or  *'  lledcemer " 
Gate,  nearest  the  eli.  of  St.  Basil,  was 
built  by  Peter  Solarius,  a  Milanese,  in 
1401.  Christopher  Galloway,  an  Kng- 
lish  clockmaker,  built  the  tower  in 
1G2G,  and  placed  a  clock  in  it,  which 
was,  however,  later  re})laced  by  another. 
Hence  the  style  of  the  tower  is  Gothic, 
and  out  of  keeping  with  the  Italian 
l)attlements :  it  is  the  Porta  Sacra  ninl 
I'orta  Triumjjhali/i  of  Moscow.  Over 
it  is  a  picture  of  the  Redeemer  of 
Smolensk,  held  in  high  veneration  by 
the  orthodox.  An  omission  to  un- 
cover the  head  while  passing  under 
this  gate  was  anciently  punishable 
with  50  compulsory  prostrations.  The 
traveller  should  not  fail  to  pay  the 
respect  to  old  traditions  here  exacted, 
since  the  Emperor  himstdf  conforms  to 
the  custom.  Criminals  executed  in 
front  of  this  gate  ottered  their  last 
1 -ravers  on  cartli  to  the  image  of  the 


Redeemer  of  Smolensk,  which  also 
witnessed  the  execution  of  the  Streltsi 
by  order  of  Peter  the  Great.  In  his 
reign  the  sectaries  who  refused  to 
shave  tlieir  beards  paid  a  fine  in  pass- 
ing through  this  gate. 

The  next  gate  in  importance  along- 
side the  Spaski  Vorota  is  the  Nikolsky 
or  Nicholas  Gate.  The  miraculous 
image  of  St.  Nicholas  of  Mojuisk,  **  the 
dread  of  perjurers  and  the  comforter 
of  suffering  humanity,''  is  suspended 
over  it.  Oaths  were  anciently  ad- 
ministered to  litigants  in  front  of  this 
venerated  image.  The  tower  was  ori- 
ginally built  in  141>1  by  an  Italian 
architect,  but  has,  like  the  other  build- 
ings of  the  Krendin,  ]x?en  restored  after 
.successive  disasters.  Tlu'  troops  of 
Tokhtamysh,  of  Sigismund  III.,  and 
of  Napoleon,  passed  through  this  gate 
within  4  centuries.  In  1408  it  wit- 
nessed the  siege  of  Moscow  by  Edigei, 
in  1551  the  invasion  by  the  Crim 
Tartars,  and  in  1611-12  the  battles 
between  tlie  Poles  and  the  Russians 
for  the  possession  of  Holy  IMoscow. 
It  was  also  partly  destroyed  by  orders 
of  Napoleon,  when  it  escaped  with  only 
a  rent  which  split  the  tower  in  the 
middle  as  far  as  the  frame  of  the  pic- 
ture ;  but  not  even  the  glass  of  the 
l)icture,  nor  even  that  of  the  lamp 
su.'^pendcd  ])eforc  it,  is  said  to  have 
been  injured.  An  inscription  to  that 
ett'ect  was  j^laccd  over  the  gate  by 
order  of  Alexander  I. 

A  gate  near  the  western  extremity 
of  the  Kremlin  wall  is  called  the 
Troitski  or  Trinity  (iate.  Its  tower 
was  likewise  built  by  Christoi)her  Gal- 
loway in  the  early  ])art  of  the  17th 
ceuty. :  restored  in  1759,  and  after  tla; 
coniiagrution  in  1812.  Tlie  French 
both  entered  and  left  the  Kremlin  by 
this  gate.  Before  that  invasion  the 
buildings  in  the  vicinity  afforded  u 
refuge  for  vagrants,  thieves,  and  mur- 
derers, who  kept  the  inhabitanta  in 
great  terror. 

The  last  gate  on  the  E.  is  called 
the  Borovitski.  Its  tower  is  curious. 
1  laving  j)cnetrated  the  Kremlin  by  one 
of  these  gates,  the  visitor  will  i)roceed 
to  inspect  the  many  interesting  bmld- 
I  ings  and    objects  which    it  cont;iins. 


Russia. 


Boute  6. — Moscoio  :  Toicer  of  Iran  VeUld. 


185 


These  are  as  follows,  in  the  order  in 
which  they  should  be  seen : — 

1.  Tlie  Tower  of  Ivan  Veliki  {John 
the  Great). — This  remarkable  structure 
should   be  ascended  first.      Tradition 
points  to   a  very  remote   origin,  but 
historical  facts  assert  that  the  tower 
was  built  in  the  year  1600  by  the  Tsar 
Boris  Godunoft'.    It  consists  of  5  stories, 
4  being  octangular  and  the  last  cylin- 
drical, the  whole  rising  to  a  height  of 
about  325  ft.  including  the  cro.ss.    The 
basement  is  occupied  by  a  chapel  dedi- 
cated to  St.  John  of  the  Ladder,  of 
which,  in  foct,  the  tower  is  the  Cam- 
panile.    In  the  next  3  stories  are  sus- 
l)ended  34  Ixdls  of  various  sizes  and 
tones.     Tiie  largest,  named  the  "As- 
sumption," hangs  in  the  first  tier  above 
the  chapel,  and  weighs  64  tons,  being, 
therefore,  five  times  Jis  heavy  as  the 
famous  ])ell  of  Erfurt,  and  four  times 
that  of  Ronen.     It  was  recast  after  the 
partial  destruction  of  the  tower  in  1812. 
The  chapel  below  this  part  of  the  tower 
is  dedicated  to  a  St.  Nicholas,  who  is 
the  patron  of  all  hidies  about  to  marry. 
The  most  ancient  of  the  other  bells 
bears  the  date  of  1550.     The  Veche 
Ix^U  of  the  Great  N(n'gorod  was  once 
susi>ended  in  this  tower ;  but  all  trace 
of  it  is  lost.     In  the  highest  tier  are  2 
small  silver   bells  of  ex(]uisite   tone. 
The  ringing  of  all  tiieseb«'lls  on  Easter 
eve  produces  a  most  wonderful  eft'ect. 
Here  the  traveller  pauses  to  behold  the 
jianorama  of  Moscow.     Tlie  view  from 
the  summit  is  certainly  one  of  the  most 
striking  and  unique  in  Europe. 

The  custode,  who  will  ascend  witli 
tlie  traveller,  will  expect  a  fee.  It  is 
advisable  to  retain  tlie  services  of  one 
of  the  men  at  the  fcM^t  of  the  tower  for 
the  rest  of  the  sights  within  the  Krem- 
lin, making  him  a  ])resent  of  50  copecks 
at  parting. 

2.  Great  Bell  «  Tsar  Kolokol,"  Tsar 
of  Bells.— This  lies  at  the  foot  of  the 
tower.  The  art  of  casting  bells  was 
known  in  Russia  in  the  14tii  centy., 
but  was  only  brought  to  perfection  in 
the  16th,  when  the  first  large  1x41  was 
cast  at  Moscow  (1553),  which  weighed 
36,000  11  )s.,  and  was  suspei.dcd  in  a 


wooden  tower.     A  Polish  traveller,  in 
1611,  relates  having  seen  a  huge  bell, 
of  which  the  clapper  was  moved  by  24 
men.     Olearius,  Secretary  of  a  Dutch 
Embassy  to  I\Ioscow,  asserts  that  tlio 
Great  Bell  was  cast  in  the  reign  of 
Boris  Godunoft'.     During  a  fire  in  the 
reign  of  Alexis,  this  bell  fell  t^>  the 
ground  and  was  broken.     In  1654  it 
was  recast,  and  weighed  288,000  lbs. 
Its  circumfert?ice  was   54  ft.,  and  its 
tliickness  2  ft.      In  1674  it  was  sus- 
pended from  a  wooden  beam  at  the  foot 
of  the  tower,  from  whence  it  fell  on  the 
lOtli  June,  1706,  during  a  fire.      Its 
fragments  hiy  on  the  ground  until  the 
reign  of  the  Empress  Anne,  by  whose 
orders  it  was  recast  in  1733.     By  the 
falling  of  some  heavy  rafters  during 
another  fire  in  1737,  the  side  of  the 
bell  was  knocked  out,  and  it  remained 
buried  in  the  ground  until  the  year 
1836,  when  it  was  placed  on  its  present 
l)e(le.stal    by    order   of    the    Emperor 
Nicholas.      Its   weight  at   present   is 
444,000  lbs.,  its  height  19  ft.  3  in.,  and 
its  circumference  60  ft.  9  in.    Its  thick- 
ness is  2   ft.,  and  the  weight  of  tho 
broken  piece  is  700  puuds,  or  about  11 
tons.     The  figures  in  relief  are  those 
of  the  Tsar  Alexis  and  tho  Empress 
Anne,  and  on  the  scroll  below  is  a  re- 
jtresentotion  of  the  Saviour,  the  Holy 
Virgin,    and    the    Evangelists,    sur- 
rounded by  cherubims.    The  inscrip- 
tion gives  the  above  facts. 

3.  The  PaZace.— The  ancient  habita- 
tions of  the  rulers  of  Moscow  were  of 
wood,  with  the  exception  of  the  Grano- 
vitaya  Palata,  built  by  an  Italian  arclii- 
tect'in  1484,  and  still  extant.  Fre- 
quent contiagrations,  Tartar  inroads, 
and  a  Polish  occupation  destroyed  the 
old  Courts  of  the  Grand  Dukes  and 
Tsars.  On  the  tmn«fer  of  the  capital 
to  St.  Petersburg,  the  Kremlin  was 
definitively  deserted  as  a  royal  resi- 
dence. The  lire  of  1737,  which  con- 
sumetl  evervthiiig  that  was  ancient  in 
IMoscow,  obliterated  all  traces  ot  the 
buildings  constructed  by  the  first 
sovereigns  of  the  Romanoff  djniasty, 
leaving  only  the  stone  basements  on 
which  the  structures  now  seen  have 
since  been  rearc  d.    The  Empress  Anne 


18G 


Route  6. — Moscow :  TJie  Palace. 


Sect.  I. 


built  a  palace  on  their  site  in  the  style 
of  tlie  period,  but  this  again  made  way 
for  the  gif^antic:  palace  dcsigued  by  tlic 
Empress  Catherine  II.,  now  exhibited 
in  the  Treasury  as  a  moikd,  and  the 
construction  of  whicli  was  soon  aban- 
doned. The  French  burned  the  palace 
ftieing  the  river  which  the  Empress 
Catherine  had  rebuilt,  and  which  the 
Emperor  N'aix)leon  occupied  ;  and  be- 
tween 1838  and  1849  it  was  entirely 
removed  and  replaced  l)y  the  present 
palace,  which  is  therefore  only  a  monu- 
ment of  the  reign  of  Nicholas  I. 

The  Bohhol  Dcorets,  or  Tiarge  Pa- 
lace, is  very  lofty  compared  with  its 
frontage,  and  its  .style  i.s  an  odd  mix- 
ture of  diti'erent  periods  and  forms  of 
architecture.  The  incongruity  of  the 
exterior  is,  however,  more  than  atoned 
fur  by  the  great  beauty  and  grandeur 
of  the  a])artments  within. 

The  exhibition  of  this  Handbook 
will  be  a  sufficient  introduction  to  tlie 
porter  in  .scarlet,  who  will  detach  one 
of  the  Imperial  servants  on  the  duty  of 
showing  the  palace.  Tlie  vestibule  is 
sup))orted  by  handsome  monoliths  of 
grey  marble.  Beginning  on  the  1,  with 
tiie  First-lloor,  which  consi.sts  of  tlie 
dwelling-rooms  of  tlie  Emperor  ami 
Em])ress,  the  apartments  occur  in  the 
following  order  : — 1.  Dining-room.  2. 
Empress's  Drawing-room  ;  wliite  .silk, 
ami  gold  mouldings.  ?>.  Attendants' 
room.  4.  Empress"  Cabinet ;  dark- 
red  silk,  and  bulil  doors,  o.  lioom 
for  Lady-in-Waiting.  G.  Enijtre.ss' 
Dressiing  and  Bath-room ;  malaehite 
manteli)iece.  7.  Bedroom.  8.  10m- 
peror's  Dressing  and  Bath-room.  1>. 
Emperor's  Cabinet ;  the  pictures  re- 
l)resent  tlie  French  entering  and  leav- 
ing Moscow,  and  tlie  battles  of  Boro- 
dino and  Smolensk;  bronze  eque.striun 
statuette  of  Napoleon.  10.  Attend- 
ants' room.  11.  Efgimental  Standard- 
room.    12.  Attendant.s'  room. 

Visitors  will  now  be  led  back  to  the 
Vestibule,  and  shovvu,  in  a  small  room 
on  the  1.,  a  machine  for  lifting  tiie  Em- 
press to  her  apartments  upstairs.  As- 
cending a  handsome  granite.stairca.se, 
with  walls  of  seai^liola,  he  will  be  taken 
to  see  the  State  Aiiartments.  The  large 
picture  in  the  gallery  round  the  top  of 


the  staircase,  painted  in  1850  by  Yvon, 
a  French  artist,  represents  the  battle 
of  Kulikova,  or  the  victory  over  the 
Tartars  gained  by  Dmitry  of  the  Don. 
The  huge  crystal  vases  at  the  door 
are  from  the  Imperial  Gla-ss  "Works  at 
St.  l'eter.sburg,  as  also  are  tlie  other 
vases  and  candelabra,  which  will  be 
shown  inside.  Passing  through  an 
ante-chamber,  the  traveller  will  find 
him.self  in  a  magnificent  Hall  dedi- 
cateil  to  the  Military  (h-der  of  St. 
George,  founded  by  Catherine  II.,  in 
1709.  It  measures  200  ft.  l)y  68  ft.  ; 
height  ~)8  ft.  The  names  of  the  in- 
dividuals and  regiments  decorated 
with  the  Order  since  its  fouiulation 
are  inscribed  on  the  walls  in  letters  of 
gold.  The  capitals  of  the  columns 
(which  are  of  zinci  are  surmounted 
by  Victories  bearing  shields,  on  which 
are  inscribed  the  dates  of  the  several 
conquests  of  Bussia,  beginning  with 
that  of  Perm,  in  1472,  and  ending  with 
the  annexatiou  of  Armenia,  in  1828. 
On  the  shields  are  likewi.se  the  arms 
of  the  con<iuered  provinces.  The  name 
of  the  Emperor  Alexander  II.  is  in- 
scribed on  a  inarbhi  tal)let  to  the  left, 
near  a  window  which  looks  out  on  the 
terrace.  II.I.M.  W(m  the  Cross  c»f  St. 
George  of  the  4th  class  in  the  Cau- 
casus. The  regiments  thus  honoured 
are  r)4r)  in  number.  The  furniture  is 
black  and  orange,  the  colours  of  the 
Oriler.  Ask  to  .see  the  view  from  the 
balcony  which  opens  out  of  this  hall. 

2.  Gorgi'ous  hall,  pink  and  gold, 
dedicated  to  Order  of  St.  Alexander 
Nev.sky,  founded  1725.  Its  length  is 
103  ft.  by  08  ft.,  and  its  extreme  height 
()8  ft.  Here  are  j»laecd  0  i)ictures  by 
Prof.  ]Moller,  portraying  tiie  princi- 
pal deeds  of  the  I'atron  Saint : — i. 
The  Cardinals  sent  by  Poi»e  Innocent 
IV.,  endetivoiiring  to  persuade  St. 
Alexander  Nevsky  to  join  the  Latin 
Ciiurch.  ii  His  marriage  with  AL:X- 
nndra.  daughter  of  the  Prince  of 
Polotsk,  iii.  Alexander  in  the  Camp 
of  the  Tartars,  bringing  gift.s.  He  is 
retjuired  to  bow  to  idols,  and  to  pass 
between  2  fires,  but  refu.se  s.  iv.  Tri- 
nmi)hal  entry  into  I'skol,  delivered 
from  the  Livonian  Knights,     v.   A 


Russia. 


Bonte  6. — Moscoio :  The  Palace, 


187 


dream  is  being  told  the  Prince,  in 
which  the  Divine  aid  is  promised  in  the 
approaching  battle  with  the  Swedes, 
vi.  Battle  with  the  Swedes  on  the 
banks  of  the  Neva.  Alexander  fight- 
ing with  tlii^  son-in-law  of  the  King 
of  Sweden  and  smiting  him  in  the  face 
with  his  lance. 

3.  Hall  of  St.  Andrew,  the  senior 
order  of  knighthood,  established  by 
I'eter  I.,  1G98  ;  the  arms  of  the  pro- 
vinces of  Iiussia  api)ear  on  the  walls, 
which  are  hung  with  blue  silk,  the 
colour  of  the  riband.  Emjjeror's 
throne;  length  of  the  hall  KJO  ft.  by 
G8  ft. ;  height  58  ft.  This  splendid 
liall  is  lighted  at  night  by  2095  can- 
dles. 4.  Guard-room.  5.  Hall  of  Or- 
der of  St.  Catherine,  a  female  distinc- 
tion, conferred  by  the  Empress,  who 
is  sovereign  of  the  order,  and  wliose 
throne  .stands  in  the  hall;  founded 
1714  in  eonnnemoration  of  the  de- 
liverance by  Catherine  of  Peter  I. 
irom  the  Turks  on  the  Pruth,  1711. 
G.  State  Drawing-room ;  green  bro- 
cade. 7.  State  Bedroom  ;  white  bro- 
cade; 2  pilasters  of  vert  antique  in 
mo.saic-work ;  mantelpiece  of  jasper. 
8.  State  Dressing  and  Bath-room. 
Descending  a  few  steps,  the  visitor 
will  be  siiown  a  small  chapel,  and 
then,  through  a  pretty  winter-garden, 
to  the  apartments  occupied  by  mem- 
bers of  the  Imperial  family.  1.  Ante- 
rfKim.  2.  Dining-room,  hung  with  fine 
old  tapestry  representing  the  life  of 
Don  Quixote.  The  tables,  lustres, 
and  looking-glass  frames  of  silver,  of 
the  period  of  the  Emjiress  Anne.  A 
small  model  of  the  monument  at  Nov- 
gorod. The  7th  and  8tli  rooms  alone 
present  some  interest,  as  they  contain 
some  fine  sepia  cojnes  of  J?a;j/<rte/,  Cor- 
refjgio,  and  Guklo  Jitni^  by  Z<n<Mmaun 
of  Dresden. 

The  Picture  Gallery  comes  next. 
The  only  pictures  worthy  of  notice 
are  the  six  that  have  been  brought 
here  from  the  royal  castle  of  Warsaw, 
all  painted  by  Bacclardli.  180.  Peace 
at  Khotin  between  Turkey  and  Po- 
land. 149.  John  Sobieski  raising 
the  siege  of  Vienna  ])y  the  Turks, 
1G83.    124.  Union  of  Lithiiauia  with 


Poland,  at  Lublin.  92.  Oath  of  the 
Voevod  Gabriel  Baizen  of  Lithuania 
to  Casimir  Jagellon.  6G.  Restoration 
of  Academy  of  Cracow  by  Ladislans 
Jagellon.  35.  Promulgation  of  Statute 
(1347)  by  Casimir  the  Great.  Eeturn- 
ing  through  the  garden,  the  visitor 
will  be  led  along  a  gallery  into  which 
open  the  windows  of  the  apartments 
allotted  to  the  maids  of  honour  of 
H.I.M. 

The  Zolotaya  Palata.  or  Gold  Court, 
is  at  the  end  of  this  gallery.  A 
much  larger  room  of  the  kind  ex- 
isted in  tiie  ancient  residence  of  the 
Tsars.  It  was  the  Audience-chamber 
and  Banqueting-room.  The  "  Gold 
Court "  here  shown  is  supposed  to  have 
been  the  state-apartment  of  the  con- 
sorts of  the  first  sovereigns  of  the 
reigning  hou.se.  It  was  renovated  at 
the  coronation  of  the  Emperor  Paul, 
an<l  again  during  the  reign  of  Nicho- 
las, in  the  style  of  the  17th  centy.- 
copied  from  old  drawings.  The  re- 
cesses, which  look  like  seats,  are  sup- 
posed to  have  liehl  the  gold  and  silver 
plate  of  the  T.sars.  The  Hall  with 
the  high  pointed  roof  is  dedicated  to 
the  Order  of  St.  Vladimir  (founded 
1782),  and  is  consequeiitlv  hung  with 
black  and  red  silk.  The  flight  of 
steps  at  the  end  of  this  hall,  called 
the  ''Red  (or  Beautiful)  Staircase," 
is  only  used  on  important  state  occa- 
.sions.  when  the  Emperor  goes  to  the 
Cathedral  of  the  Assumption.  From 
the  top  of  these  stairs  the  Tsars  of  old 
allowed  the  populace  to  see  "  the  light 
of  their  eyes."  Here  John  the  Ter- 
rible gazed  at  the  comet  that  seemed 
t(»  foretel  his  speedy  end ;  and  it  was 
here  also  that  he  committed  the  in- 
human act  of  tran.sfixing  with  his 
pointed  staff  the  foot  of  the  trusty  mes- 
senger and  friend  of  Prince  Kurbski, 
a  valiant  leader  of  his  armies,  who,  in 
the  apprehension  of  unmerited  pun- 
ishment and  death,  abandoned  his 
wife  and  fled  to  the  Polish  camj)  at 
"Wolinar,  whence  he  wrote  to  the  Tsfir 
setting  forth  the  crimes  and  atrocities 
of  his  reign.  The  tyrant  rested  on  his 
staff  while  the  leUer  was  read  by  liis 
commands,  the  messenger  meanw^hilo 
standing  motionless  and  silent.    From 


188 


Boute  0. — Moscow :  Tlie  Palace, 


Sect.  I. 


Russia. 


Boute  0. — Moscow :  The  Palace. 


189 


the  Red  Staircaso  the  mangUd  body  of 
the  false  Dometriiis  was  thrown  down  in 
the  court  below  by  the  infuriated  people 
of  Moscow  in  IGOG ;  and  it  was  from  tlic 
same  steps  tliat  tlie  rebel  Streltsi,  in 
1082,  tore  the  obnoxious  Boyar  IMatve- 
yeif,  and  cut  him  to  pieces  before  the 
eyes  of  the  terrified  mother  of  Peter  the 
Great,  together  with  numerous  otlier 
noblemen  and  adherents  of  the  Court. 
15y  these  stei)s  also,  Napoleon,  followed 
by  his  Marshals,  ascended  to  take  pos- 
session of  the  palace  of  the  Kremlin. 

The  Graiiovitaya  Falata,  or  lian- 
queting-room,  will  be  viewed  next. 
An  inscription  over  the  door  sets  fortli 
tliat  it  was  Iniilt  by  John  III.,  who 
married  Sopliia  Paleologus,  and  re- 
stored by  Nicholas  I.  It  is  a  vaulted 
ajjartment  with  arches  resting  f>n  a 
column  in  tlie  centre  of  the  room,  and 
round  whicli  the  Imperial  plate  is  dis- 
played. Here  the  Emperor  sits  en- 
throned after  the  ceremony  in  the 
Cathedral,  adorned  for  the  first  time 
with  all  the  Imj)erial  insignia,  and  dines 
amidst  his  nobles;  crowned  heads 
being  alone  .seated  at  the  same  table 
witli  him.  Oi)posite  the  throne,  near 
the  ceiling,  is  a  window,  which  was 
in  olden  days  occupied  by  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Imperial  family  during  the 
coronation  banquet,  their  presence  be- 
low being  excluded  by  etiquette. 

The  visitor  now  comes  to  a  very 
interesting  part  of  the  i)alace — the 
Terem,  anciently  devoted  to  the  Tsar- 
evna  and  her  children.  The  building 
consists  of  4  stories,  which  gradually 
diminish  till  the  upper  floor  is  so  small 
as  only  to  contain  1  room.  The  2 
lower  stories,  used  as  magazines,  were 
built  in  the  early  part  of  the  iGth 
centy.,  but  the  2  upper  were  added  in 
1G3G  by  Michael  Fedorowitch.  The 
entire  building  was  restored  183G- 
1841).  Ascending  the  curious  carved 
stone  staircase,  the  first  room  reached 
is  the  Dining-room ;  the  presses  con- 
tain the  old  seals  of  the  empire.  2. 
lleception-room ;  bronze  casket,  con- 
taining old  charters  of  the  reign  of 
Alexis.  3.  Throne-room  of  Alexis ; 
seals  of  sovereigns ;  gold  seal  of  John 
the  Terrible,  in  a  small  open  box  in 
press,  1.  of  door ;   bronze  casket  con- 


taining act  of  election  of  INIichacI 
Homanoff  to  throne  of  Muscovy.  4. 
Bedroom.  5.  Oratory ;  copy  of  the 
Evangelists  on  parchment  of  14th  centy. 
Th(!  room  above  is  called  the  Council 
Chamber  of  the  Boyars.  Visitors 
should  go  out  onl  the  gallery  that  runs 
round  the  outside  of  this  building, 
and  admire  the  view.  A  door  under 
the  staircase  of  the  Terem  leads  to  a 
suite  of  rooms  where  old  charters  are 
kept.  These  can  only  be  seen  by 
special  permission.  Alexis,  and  sul> 
sequently  his  sons  Theodore  and  John, 
were  brought  up  in  the  Terem.  Peter 
the  Great  sometimes  occupied  it  before 
his  first  journey  to  foreign  countries, 
and  its  last  occupant  ',/as  tlie  unfortu- 
nate Alexis,  son  of  Peter. 

The  guide  should  receive  a  fee,  as 
well  as  the  porter,  for  taking  care  of 
coats,  sticks,  and  uml)rellas. 

4.  Tlie  Treasiirij  {Orujeinaya  Td- 
lata),* — This  building,  erected  in  1851, 
forms  tho  right  wing  of  the  Palace, 
and  contains  a  collection  very  similar 
in  subjects  to  that  of  the  Tower  of  lion- 
don.  The  Treasury  of  Moscow  was 
anciently,  and  still  remains,  the  deposi- 
tory of  venerated  historical  objects,  and 
of  treasures  hereditary  in  the  reigning 
house.  The  geographical  position  of 
Russia,  and  her  ancient  conmiereial 
intercourse  with  India,  Persia,  Ar- 
menia, and  Greece,  gave  her  princes 
and  boyars  the  widest  opiwrtunities  for 
the  acquisition  of  wealth.  The  arts, 
first  of  the  East,  and  later  of  the  West, 
found  munificent  patrons  at  the  court 
of  Moscow.  The  iuterchange  of  pre- 
sents on  the  occasion  of  alliances,  em- 
bassies, or  the  conclusion  of  peace, 
continued  to  the  time  when  Russia  was 
no  longer  considered  an  Asiatic  pow»r, 
increased  tho  store  of  riches  in  the 
shajx!  of  plate,  precious  stones,  and 
costly  manufactures  of  difterent  kinds, 
which  in  those  primitive  days  were  tlio 
principal  representatives  of  wealth. 
The  churches,  in  the  same  manner, 
were  more   frequently  endowed   with 

*  Tho  Tre.isury  is  only  open  on  Mondays 
and 'rimrsilays,  lK.'t\v<en  11  and  .1.  Tickets  at 
the  Chambor  Iain's  ollicc  In  the  Senate,  within 
the  KremUn. 


I 


\ 


pearls,  diamonds,  and  rubies  than  with 
lands  or  ducats.  The  splendour  of  the 
Tsar's  court,  like  that  of  his  nobles, 
was  manifested  in  a  gorgeous  magnifi- 
cence and  profusion  in  the  absence  of 
a  more  refined  civilization.  The  riches 
thus  amassed  were  naturally  subject  to 
political  vicissitudes.  In  IGll  and 
1G12  the  Council  of  Boyars,  during  an 
interregnum,  supjiorted  the  troops  of 
Poland  and  I.ithuania  within  the  walls 
of  the  Kremlin  on  the  produce  of  a 
considerable  quantity  of  plate  con- 
vert(  d  into  money.  The  favourites  of 
the  I'sar  received  fre(iuent  marks  of 
approbation  in  tlie  .shape  of  vessels  of 
gold  and  silver.  A  fire  in  1737  de- 
stroyed many  historical  objects,  and 
amongst  them  all  the  colours  taken 
from  the  Swedes  at  the  battle  of  Pol- 
tava. Eater  the  sovereigns  of  Ru-ssia 
transferred  their  capitid,  and  more  than 
once  nmoved  their  household  gods 
from  one  palace  to  another.  During 
the  Erencli  invasion  they  were  con- 
veyed to  Nijni-Novgorod.  They  were 
thus  frequently  dispersed  and  partially 
reunited,  and  there  now  remains  in  the 
Treiisury  of  Moscow  the  collection, 
still  con.siderable,  to  which  the  visitor 
is  introduced. 

The  hall  and  staircase  arc  adorned 
with  trophies  of  arms,  principally  Ger- 
man. The  large  bell,  a  sort  of  tocsin, 
bearing  the  date  of  1714,  when  it  was 
recast,  anciently  rang  out  alanns  of 
fire,  and  of  other  public  dangers  to  the 
citizens  of  Moscow. 

The  first  room  at  the  top  of  the  stair- 
case is  devoted  to  specimens  of  old 
Russian  armour,  both  of  man  and  horse, 
and  the  appropriate  weapons  of  steel. 

The  second  room  is  full  of  old  Rus- 
sian fire-arms,  arranged  chronologic- 
ally, and  dating  from  the  15th  to  the 
18tli  centy.  The  matchlocks  and  mus- 
kets to  the  left  are  all  of  native 
manufacture.  The  Ibwling-pieces  are 
inscribed  as  having  been  presented  to 
the  Tsar  Michael  in  1G14,  by  Eabian 
Smith,  an  Englishman.  They  are  near 
the  door  on  tlie  1.  Tho  standards  of 
the  Tsars  of  Moscovia,  and  of  their 
military  households,  are  grouped  round 
the  pillars  by  which  the  vaulted  roof 
of  the  room  is  supported.    The  most 


interesting  colours  will  be  found  at  the 
second  pillar.  Here  are  the  colours  of 
Peter's  unruly  Streltsi.  Nos.  3(j97  and 
3698,  bearing  the  lion  and  the  unicorn, 
were  carried  by  the  Cossack  Yermak 
to  the  conquest  of  Siberia.  No.  3G90 
was  unfurled  as  long  ago  as  the  early 
part  of  the  17th  centy.  at  the  fort  of 
Albazin,  on  the  Amiir,  by  a  small 
body  of  adventurous  Cossacks^  who 
settled  on  that  river,  but  were  subse- 
quently driven  out  by  the  Chinese. 
Tlie  standard  of  Ivan  the  Terrible, 
planted  at  Kazan  in  1552,  will  be  found 
near  the  first  window  on  the  1.,  and  is 
numbered  3752. 

Here  are  also  numerous  trophies 
taken  from  the  Swedes,  and  amongst 
them  the  sword  of  Charles  XII.,  his 
spurs,  and  the  litter  in  which  he  was 
borne  at  tlie  battle  of  I'oltava. 

The  walls  of  the  third  room  are  hung 
with  original  portraits  of  the  Romanolf 
family.  Tho  coronation  chair  on  tho 
1.  is  that  of  the  Empress  Elizabeth ; 
the  chairs  on  the  rt,  were  occupied  by 
Paul  I.,  Alexander  II.,  and  their  con- 
sorts, as  the  visitor  may  ]>erceive  from 
the  ciphers  on  them.  The  Emperor 
and  Empress  walk  at  their  coronation 
under  the  haldachino  in  the  centre  of 
the  room.  The  traveller  will  pause  at 
the  stand  of  colours  at  the  furthest  end 
of  this  hall,  to  the  rt.  of  the  door,  while 
he  reads  the  following  translation  of 
the  printed  inscription  in  Russian 
characters,  composed  by  the  Emperor 
Nicholas  himself:  —  ''Alexander  L, 
the  benefactor  of  Poland,  gave  these 
colours  to  his  Polish  army.  Mag- 
nanimity was  responded  to  by  treason ; 
the  brave,  fiiithful  Russian  army  took 
these  colours  back,  after  storming 
Warsaw  and  sparing  its  inhabitants, 
25  and  2G  August,  1831."  The  con- 
stitution granted  by  Alexander  I.  to 
his  Polisli  subjects  lies  in  the  small 
black  box  immediately  under  the  in- 
scription. 

The  glass  case  on  the  1.  contains  the 
arms  taken  from  the  Polish  general 
Rzewuski.  A  blade  bears  the  name 
of  Stanislaus  Augustus,  and  the  date 
of  17G4. 

The  room  on  the  rt.  contains  many 
of  the  most  interesting  relics  of  Rus- 


190 


Boute  G. — Moscoio  :  Hie  Palace. 


Sect.  I. 


Eussia. 


Boute  6. — Moscow  :  TJie  Palace. 


191 


sian  soverei.G^nty.  To  the  1.  ou  onterinp: 
stands  the  throne  of  Pohmd,  removed 
in  1833  from  the  throne-room  of  the 
lioyal  Palace  at  Warsaw.  It  was  used 
at  the  coronation  of  Nicholas  I.  as 
King  of  Poland.  Tlie  cipher  M.  is 
the  initial  of  his  name  in  I'olish 
(3[ikolay).  The  insignia  of  Alexis, 
and  of  his  sons  John  and  Peter,  are  on 
stands  close  by.  The  ivory  tlirone  was 
brought  from  Constantinople  by  Sophia 
Palajologus  in  1472,  on  her  marriage 
with  John  III.  The  carving  repre- 
sents the  labours  of  Orplieus  and  the 
legend  of  Thrace,  but  several  of  tlie 
original  panels  were  replaced  in  1 012 
by  others  with  inappropriate  subjects. 
It  was,  moreover,  restored  in  185(»  for 
tile  coronation  of  Alexander  II.  The 
tJiroiie  alongside  came  from  I'ersia  in 
1(JG0,  and  was  used  by  tlic  Tsar  Alexis. 
It  is  studded  with  870  diamonds  and 
1223  rubies,  besides  turtpioisis  and 
jiearls.  The  orb  opposite  tlu'se  thrones 
is  of  great  historical  importance.  It 
was  sent  to  Vladimir  IMonomachus, 
Prince  of  Kief,  by  the  (ireek  Emperors 
Basilius  and  Oonstontine,  together 
with  a  crown,  a  collar  of  enamel  and 
precious  stones,  and  a  chair,  with  a 
piece  of  the  true  cross.  It  is  most 
sj)lendidly  studded  with  .58  diamonds, 
81)  rnbies,  23  sap])hires,  .')0  emeralds, 
and  37  pearls.  The  coloured  enamels 
are  in  the  most  beautiful  style  of  Greek 
art, and  represent  the  principal  episodes 
in  the  life  of  David.  The  four  sym- 
bolical figures  of  Byzantium,  the  eagle, 
the  lion,  the  grifhn,  and  the  unicorn, 
divide  the  several  images  or  enamelled 
l)lates. 

The  wardrol)e  next  the  throne 
brings  very  ditlerent  recollections. 
The  first  object  in  it  is  a  masquerade 
dress  of  Catherine  I.  Alongside  this 
are  her  coronation  robes,  the  military 
dress  of  Peter  II.,  and  other  specimens 
of  wearing  apparel.  The  boots  of 
Peter  I.  and  Paul  I  stand  on  either 
side  of  the  warcb'obe.  The  next  throne 
is  that  of  Michael.  Opi)osite  to  it 
stands  the  crown  of  the  kingdom  of  Ka- 
zan. It  belonged  to  Simeon,  crowned 
Tsar  of  Kazan,  and  converted  to  Chris- 
tianity by  Jt)hn  tlio  Terrible  in  15.")3. 
It    is    surmounted   by   a   topaz,  and 


adorned  with  rubies,  turquoises,  and 
l)earls.     The  crown  on  tlu;  next  stand 
was  made   for  Michael    by    Pussian 
artizans.     It  is  richly  ornamented  witli 
,  enamel-work,   and   surmounted   by  a 
:  large  emerald.     Thire  are  190  other 
l)recious  stones  round  it.     The  second 
i  glass  case  contains  the  coronation  robes 
of  the  Kmperor  Alexander  II.  and  his 
Em] tress.     The  throne  of  Boris  God- 
unof  comes  next.     It  was  the  gift  of 
I  Abbas  Shah  of  Persia,  in  1004,  and  is 
I  studded   with   veiy    large   turcpioises 
!  and  innumerable  rubies  and  ])earls. 
j  The  crown  of  John,  brotiier  of  Peter  I., 
j  is   on   the    next  stand.     It  is  in  the 
I  shape  of  a   mitre,  or  pyramidal  cap 
I  of  maintenance,  surmounted  by  a  dia- 
mond cross,  rising  from  a  ruby.     The 
diamonds  with  which  this  magnificent 
crown  is  ornamented  are  900  in  number. 
The  orb  alongside  was  made  at  G)n- 
stantinoj^le  for  Alexis  in  1002.     The 
green  enamel  is  profusely  studded  with 
diamonds  and   i-ight  large   sapphires. 
In  the  wardrobe  opposite  hang  the  coro- 
nation  robes  of  the  Empresses  Anne 
and  Catherine  II.     The  double  throne 
of  Vermeil  was  made  for  tlie  coronation 
of  John  and  Peter.     The  usual  Byzan- 
tine emblems  will  be  observed.     The 
crowns  of  those  sovereigns  lie  ojiposite. 
The  costliest  crown  is  that  of  the  Em- 
jtress  Anne,  orig'nally  made  ibr  Cathe- 
rine I.  bv  order  of  Peter  tlie  Great,  the 
diamonds  in   it,  alone,  being  2530  in 
number;  but  the  jewel  of  most  value 
in  it  is  the  ruby,  purchased  at  Pekin 
in  1070  by  the  Ambassador  of  Alexis. 
The  throne  of  Paul  completes  the  col- 
lection.    In  the  last  wardrobe  are  the 
coronation  robes  of  Paul,  Alexander  I., 
and   Nicholas  I.,  with  those  of  tlieir 
consorts.      In  the   glass   case   in   the 
centre  of  the  room  the  visitor  will  find 
the   Order    of   the    Garter,    and    the 
patent  for  it,  sent  to  John  the  Terrible 
by  Queen  Elizabeth. 

A  casket  in  this  room  contains  the 
''  Ulojenie',"  or  Code  of  the  Tsar  Alexis 
(1019,,  written  on  sheets  of  parchment 
measuring  together  308  yards. 

It  is  im[X)ssible,  however,  to  par- 
ticularise all  the  other  treasures  of  this 
most  interesting  room,  and  W(^  must 
close  our  description  of  it  by  directing 


\ 


f 


the  attention  of  the  visitor  to  the  Staff 
or  walking-stick  of  John  the  Terrible, 
with  the  sharp  point  of  which  tlie  Tsar 
was  in  the  habit  of  transfixing  the  feet 
of  those  with  whom  he  was  displeased. 
It  was  with  the  blow  of  a  similar  stick 
that  he  killed  his  eldest  son.  The 
staff  of  fish-bone  Avas  the  gift  of  Pope 
Gregorv  XIII. 

The  fourth,  or  last  room  upstairs,  is 
full  of  stands  groaning  with  the  richest 
and  most  curious  articles  of  plate. 
Some  of  the  objects  here  exhibited  arc 
of  great  antiquity, — a  cup  of  silver  bear- 
ing an  inscription  of  the  r2tli  centy. 
Every  domestic  vessel  has  a  specimen 
in  this  collection,  and  their  forms  will 
be  studied  with  interest  by  the  lovers 
of  art.  The  work  of  nearly  every 
country  in  Europe  meets  the  eye.  Our 
own  silversniitlis  have  contributed 
many  articles  presented  to  the  Tsar 
bv  the  ambassadors  of  James  I., 
Charles  I.,  and  Charles  II.  Two  jugs 
of  chased  silver,  two  vases  of  vermeil, 
the  covers  surmounted  by  a  cavalier 
armed  with  a  lance,  a  ewer  weighing 
24  lbs.,  two  large  jugs,  two  candle- 
sticks, and  four  dishes,  all  of  silver, 
were  brought  by  the  Earl  of  Carlisle, 
ambassador  of  Charles  II.  For  a  de- 
tailed description  of  the  plate  vide  *  Le 
Tre'sor  do  Moseou,  ISO  J,'  to  be  pur- 
chased at  the  door. 

Keturning  down  stairs,  the  visitor 
will  be  shown  some  rooms  on  the  rt., 
ccmtaining  amongst  other  things  the 
following  remarkable  objects  : — ■ 

In  the  first  room  is  an  immense 
model  of  a  palace  which  Catherine  II. 
proposed  to  construct  within  the 
Kremlin,  and  of  which  the  first  stone 
was  actually  laid  in  1773.  A  theati'C, 
in  the  shape  of  tlie  Coliseum  at  Kome, 
was  to  have  been  erected  near  the 
holy  gate  of  the  Saviour.  The  tra- 
veller may  congratulate  tlie  IMuscovite 
on  the  plan  of  such  a  building  having 
been  abandoned.  The  small  field- 
pieces  were  cast  at  Tabreez  during 
its  occupation  by  llussian  troops  in 
1827. 

In  the  second  room  will  be  found 
portraits  of  kings  of  Poland,  and  of 
Polish  men  of  eminence,  together 
with  22  busts  of  Zamoiskis,  Sapichas, 


Wielopolskis,    and    other    illustrious 
Poles. 

The  old  carriages  of  the  court  of 
]Moscow  fill  the  next  and  last  room. 
The  large  vehicle  on  the  right  was 
presented,  together  with  eight  horses, 
by  Queen  Elizabeth  to  the  Tsar  Boris 
Godunoff.  The  panels  are  painted 
with  allegorical  allusions  to  a  crusade 
which  the  Tsar  had  proposed  to  make 
against  the  Turks,  and  in  which  our 
Queen  declhied  to  join.  The  minia- 
ture carriage  witli  i^anes  of  mica  be- 
longed to  I'eter  I.  wiien  a  child.  An- 
other large  carriage  on  the  right 
belonged  to  tiie  Eiiq^ress  Elizabeth. 
The  panels  an^  painted  in  the  style  of 
AVatteau.  The  carriage  on  runners, 
witli  a  table  and  benches  covered  with 
green  cloth,  was  used  by  the  Empress 
Elizabeth  on  her  journeys  between 
St.  Petersburg  and  JMoscow.  The  first 
large  carriage  on  the  left,  lined  with 
crimson  velvet,  was  made  for  the  Pa- 
triarch Philaret.  Tw^o  camp  bed- 
steads which  belonged  to  Napoleon, 
and  were  taken  at  the  Berezina,  stand 
at  the  upper  end  of  the  room.  The 
cases  along  the  walls  and  pillars  arc 
full  of  saddles  and  horse-trappings, 
dating  from  the  17th  cent. 


^r>'^i 


a.  The  Maloi  or  Nicolaefsid  Dvorets, 
or  Little  Palace,  facing  the  Great 
Bell,  is  scarcsly  worthy  of  a  visit. 
Originally  built  oy  Catherine,  it  was 
the  residence  of  the  Metrojwlitan 
Platon,  who  presented  it,  in  1817,  to 
the  Emperor  Nicholas.  The  Emperor 
Alexander  II.  was  born  here.  The 
furniture  and  arrangements  are  of 
the  simplest  kind.  In  the  Dining- 
room  is  a  picture  by  Canaletto,  "  Elec- 
ti<m  of  Stanislaus  Augustus  by  the 
Diet  ot  Warsaw  in  1704."  There  are 
2  other  pictures,  by  a  native  artist, 
illustrative  of  the  merits  of  Minin  and 
Pojarski.  In  the  next  room  are  2 
pictures  by  Aivazowshi,  the  marine 
painter,  ''the  Burning  of  Moscow," 
and  "the  Temple  of  the  Saviour," 
now  in  course  of  erection.  There  is 
a  Polish  standard  in  the  3rd  room. 


192         Boutc  6. — 3I08COW  :  Catlicdral  oftlic  Assumption.       Sect.  I. 


PLAN  OF  THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  THE  ASSUMPTION  AT  MOSCOW. 


■•) 

Ill 


Hussia.       Boute  G. — Moscoio :  Catliedrat  of  tlie  Assumption.        193 


EXPLANATION  OF  REFERENCES. 


A.  "  IconnstasiB,"   or  Screen  for  the  Sacred 
Pictures. 

B.  "  IJctna,"  or  Sanctuary. 

C.  C.  "  Soleas,"  or  Choir. 
I).  Nave. 

K.  "  Proaulioii,"  or  Porch. 
F.  F.  F.  F.  Columns. 

1 

*  1.  Principal  alUir. 
J.  Thron(!  i.f  the  Archbishop,    Metropolitan, 

or  Patriarch  of  Moscow. 
;.  Sido  altivr,  dedl&itod   to   S.  Demetrius  of 

Tliessalonica. 
1.  Slilc    altiir,    dediaiteil    tu    SS.    Peter    and 
Paul. 
Thps(>  two  side  altars  are  separate  pieces  of 
the  one  chief  altar;  but  placed  here  to 
allow  of  access  to  tliom  without  passing 
through  the  Sanctuary. 
5.  Stairs    leading    to    "  the    Chapel    of    the 
lUcssed   Virgin "    hi  the  cupola,   where 
the    election    of    the     Patriarchs     took 
place. 
J.  Stairs  leading  to  the  Sacristy,  containing  the 
relics  and  curiosities  of  the  Church. 
Ti )nib  of  S.  Theognostus,  7  ■«.  .        ,,. 
Tomb  of  S.  Peter:  ' }  Metroix>lltans. 


a.  a.  a.  a.  Pictures  of  the  Seven  Councils. 

b.  h.  h.  Pictures  of  the  Last  Judgment. 

c.  c.  c.  c.  c.  c.  Pictures  of  the  Life  and  Death  of 

the  Virgin. 

d.  d.  d.  d.    Pictures   of  the    Patriarchs   and 

Fathers  of  the  Church. 


9. 

10. 
11. 
12. 
13. 


14. 
15. 

16. 
IT. 
18. 

19. 
20. 
21. 
22. 


Shrine,  containing  sacred  relics. 

Tomb  of  S.  Philip,  ]Metroix>litan. 

Sacred  Picture  of  our  Lady  of  Vladimir. 

Tomb  of  S.  Jonah,  ]\letropolitan. 

TalK>rnacle  over  "  the  Holy  Tunic,"  pre- 
sented to  the  Church  by  I'hilarct, 
Patriarch. 

Tombs  of  SS.  Pbotlus  and  Cyprian. 

The  ancient  throne  of  the  Tsar  (called  "  of 
Vladimir  IMonomachus"). 

Throne  of  the  Patriarch. 

Tlirone  of  the  Empress. 

Place  of  the  platform  on  which  the  Em- 
peror is  crownetl. 

Tomb  of  Philaret,  Patriarch. 

Tomb  of  Hermogenes,  I'atriarch, 

Royal  doors. 

Platform  in  front  of  the  choir. 


The  Pictures  on  the  Altar  Screen  (A)  are  thus  airanged. 


1.  The  highest  comi)artm<'nt,  the  Patriarchs 

ranged   on    each    side    of  the    Eternal 
Father. 

2.  The  Prophets  leaning  towards  the  Virgin 

and  Son. 

3.  Minute  representations  of  the  life  of  the 

Saviour. 

4.  Angels  ajid  Apostles  on  each  side  of  the 

Saviour. 


5.  The  .Sacred  Pictures  or  Icons: 

(a)  "  The  Blessed  Virgin,"  brought  by 
Vladimir  from  Khersonesus. 

(h)  "  The  Saviour,"  sent  by  the  p]mperor 
IManuel. 

(c)  "  Repose  of  the  Blessed  Virgin," 
painted  by  Peter  the  Metro- 
politan. 


On  the  doors  ("  the  Royal  Doors,"  so  called  because  the  Ts;ir  or  Emperor  passes  through  them 
on  the  day  of  his  coronation)  are  painted  the  Four  Evangelists,  to  represent  that  through  this 
entrance  come  the  plad  tidings  of  the  Eucharist.  On  each  side  of  the  dooi*s  are  representetl  (in 
ancient  churches)  Adam  and  the  I'enitent  Thief,  as  tlie  first  fallen  and  the  first  redtHmed.  On 
the  farther  compartments  are  repn  sented  the  Virgin  and  the  Forerunder  (the  Baptist),  and  at  the 
northern  comer  the  Saint  to  whom  the  Church  is  dedicated. 

On  each  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  Nave  arc  (sometimes)  represented  the  Publican  and  the 
I'harlHee,  as  the  two  opixjsite  types  of  worshlpeix  Where  the  I'orch  is  extended,  it  contiiins 
the  Pagan  Philosophers  and  Poets  each  with  a  scroll  in  his  hand  contahiing  a  sentence  antici- 
patory of  the  Gospel. 

'i'he  south  side  of  the  church  is  always  occupied  by  the  Seven  Councils ;  the  north  side  either 
by  tlie  life  of  the  Patron  Saint  of  the  Church  (in  the  Uspcnsky  Church,  of  the  Virgin)  or  by 
tlie  Parables.  In  the  Donskoi  Church  all  the  events  of  the  Old  and  New  Testaments  arc 
represented. 

The  columns  arc  paUitcd  with  the  figures  of  martyrs. 


194 


Boute  6. — Moscow :  Cathedrals. 


Sect.  I. 


Eussia. 


Houte  6. — Moscoio :  Cathedrals. 


195 


Cathedrals. 

6.  Uspenslu  Sobor.  Cathedral  of  the 
Assumption. — This  sacred  edifice  was 
formerly  called  the  Patriarclial  Cathe- 
dral, but  is  now  known  as  the  Church 
of  tlie  Assumption,  or  llepose  of  the 
Virjj:in.  The  emperors  are  crowned 
in  it,  and  the  patriarclis  formerly 
officiated  there.  The  site  was  ori- 
jj:inally  occupied  by  a  church  built 
in  i;>2r)  by  tlie  Metropolitan  Peter, 
wlien  it  bi'came  the  i)lace  of  sei)ulture 
of  the  Patriarchs,  just  as  the  diurch 
dedicated  to  St.  Michael,  iu  the  im- 
mediate vicinity,  and  founded  at  the 
snme  time,  was  destined  to  receive  the 
remains  of  the  sovereigns  of  Kussia ; 
but  it  was  reconstructed  between 
1475-1471)  by  Aristotle  Fioraventi  of 
Bologna,  with  the  assistance  of  native 
artists,  after  the  model  ttf  the  withe- 
drul  at  Vladimir.  It  is  solidly  built, 
the  foundations  l)eing  about  14  ft. 
deep,  and  the  wails  and  vaults  were 
Toiisiderubly  strengthened  in  1G20. 
riie  dDuies  were  only  covered  with 
copper-gilt  plates  in  1084.  But,  not- 
withstanding these  alterations,  and 
others  which  were  made  after  the 
great  fire  of  1737,  the  Cathedral  of  the 
Assumption  retains  almost  entirely  its 
primitive  form,  and  is  therefore  one  of 
the  most  interesting  Christian  monu- 
ments in  Kussia. 

The  architectural  arrangements  (a 
mixture  of  the  Byzantine  and  Lom- 
bard) and  the  ornamentation  are  all 
minutely  symbolical,  and  will  tliere- 
fore  well  re[)ay  a  careful  study  of  the 
plan  here  annexed,  taken  from  Dean 
Stanley's  work  on  the  Eastern  Church. 
'•  It  is  in  dimensions,"  sjiys  that 
learned  authority,  "  what  in  the  West 
would  be  called  a  chapel  rather  than 
a  cathedral.  But  it  is  so  fraught 
with  recollections,  so  teeming  with 
worshippers,  so  bursting  with  tombs 
and  pictures  from  the  pavement  to 
the  cupola,  that  its  smallness  of 
space  is  forgotten  in  the  fullness  of 
its  contents.  On  the  platform  of  its 
nave,  from  Ivan  the;  Terrible  down- 
wards to  this  day,  the  Tsars  have  been 


crowned.  Along  its  altar-screen  are 
deposited  the  most  sacred  pictures  of 
llussia ;  that,  jminted  by  the  Metro- 
I)olitan  Peter  ;  this,  sent  by  the  Greek 
Emperor  Manuel ;  that,  ])ronght  by 
Vladimir  from  Kherson.  High  in  the 
cupola  is  the  chapel,  where,  as  at  the 
sunnuit  of  the  Russian  Church,  the 
Russian  primates  were  elected.  .  .  . 
Round  the  walls  arc  buried  the  pri- 
mates of  the  Church ;  at  the  four 
corners — here,  as  in  all  Oriental  build- 
ings, the  place  of  honour — lie  those 
most  hii:;hly  venerated." 

St.  Peter,  the  first  Metroiiolitan  of 
Moscow,  lies  in  a  small  cliaix;!  on  the 
left  side  of  the  Ikonostas,  where  some 
sacred  relics  are  likewise  exhibited 
to  the  faithful,  such  as  a  nail  of  the 
true  cross,  and  a  jxirtion  of  the  robe  of 
our  Saviour.  A  i)icture  in  the  Ikonos- 
tas— that  of  the  Holy  Virgin  of  Vladi- 
mir— will  be  ixiinttnl  out  as  having 
been  j)ainted  by  St.  Luke.  The  jewels 
with  which  it  is  adorned  are  valued  at 
45,000Z.,  the  emerald  alone  being  worth 
10,000?.  It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
images  in  Russia,  and  is  i)ainted  on  a 
composition  of  wax.  The  silver  shrine 
of  St.  Philip,  Metro{)olitan  betwLH.'n 
loGG  and  1.509,  which  stands  conspi- 
cuous on  the  right  "wing"  of  the 
Ikonostas,  is  an  ol)ject  of  more  than 
ordinary  interest  in  connexion  with  the 
ecclesiastical  history  of  Russia. 

Philijj  was  a  i)relate,  bold  enough  to 
rebuke  (van  the  Terrible  for  his  inhu- 
man cruelties.  The  Tsar  hail  just  caused 
many  of  his  nobles  to  be  jmt  to  death, 
and,  surrounded  by  his  Oprichniks  (a 
band  of  lawless  adherents  who  replaced 
his  ancient  nobles  at  the  court),  had 
devastated  numerous  villages  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Moscow.  The  people 
entreated  the  ]Metro])olitan  to  intercede 
for  them,  but  he  long  hesitated,  having 
given  a  covenant,  j)rior  to  his  election, 
that  he  would  not  interfere  with  the 
Tsars  household.  But,  having  con- 
tracted a  fourth  marriage  against  the 
canons  of  the  church,  Ivan  was  placed 
to  a  certain  extent  beyond  its  pale, 
and  prohibited  by  the  Metropolitan 
from  assisting  at  mass,  although  he 
might  listen  to  the  Church  service 
from  outside  its  walls.     He  neverthe- 


less appeared  one  day  in  the  body  of 
the  cathedral,  accompanied  by  a  crowd 
of  his  obi »ox ions  followers.  Philip 
continued  to  pi-ay  as  if  he  were  un- 
conscious of  the  Tsar's  presence.  "  The 
T.sar  demands  thy  blessing,"  said  the 
Oprichniks;  then  the  prelate,  turning 
towards  his  sovereign,  addressed  him 
in  the  following  words:  "Pious  Tsar  ! 
whom  dost  thou  enmlate,  having  be- 
trayed the  beauty  of  greatness  ?  Why 
hast  thou  conn;  here,  where  the  ofter- 
ing  to  God  is  a  bloodless  sacrifice, 
— thou,  with  bloodstained  hands  ? 
AVhenc(^  does  the  .sun  stand  still  in  the 
lieavens?  the  Tsjir  is  laying  waste  his 
dominions ! "  •'  Seditious  monk,"  cried 
out  Ivan,  ''  I  am  too  merciful  to  trai- 
tors! I  will  henceforth  be  what  tliou 
hast  called  me ! "  The  breach  be- 
tween the  Tsar  and  the  prelate  now 
became  wider  and  wider.  "  Silence," 
said  IMiilij).  as  he  rebuked  the  Tsar, 
"lays  sins  upon  tlie  soul,  and  brings 
death  to  the  whole  ix-oplc.  I  am  a 
stranger  and  a  pilgrim  ui)on  earth,  as 
nil  my  fathers  were,  and  I  am  ready 
to  sufier  for  the  truth."  One  day  he 
Ixiltlly  told  him,  *'  As  the  image  of  the 
Divinity  I  reverence  thee;  as  a  man 
thou  art  but  dust  and  ashes."  Accu- 
sations were  soon  brought  against  the 
]\Ietropolitan,  but  the  council,  assem- 
bled to  try  him,  separated  with  shame, 
after  listening  to  his  defence.  He 
was  officiating  in  the  cathedral  when 
a  band  of  Oj)richniks  again  entered, 
and,  after  reading  the  sentence  of  the 
council  dejiriving  him  of  his  high 
oiHce,  dragged  the  old  man  from  the 
altar,  replaced  his  pontifical  robes  by 
a  monk's  cowl,  and,  driving  him  out 
of  the  chureh  with  brooms,  carried  him 
off  into  confinement.  His  relatives 
and  friends  W(ue  seized  and  executed. 
Ivan  sent  him  a  human  head,  with  the 
inquiry,  "  Sorcerer,  dost  thou  recognise 
this  head  ?  "  "  Yes,"  answered  Philip, 
"  it  is  the  head  of  my  nephew  John ;  " 
and  he  kissed  and  blessed  it.  The 
saint  was  ultimately  imprisoned  in  a 
monastery  at  Tver,  where  he  was  put 
to  death. 

This  martyr  in  the  cause  of  mercy 
and  justice  well  deserves  the  honours 
of  a   shrine,   and   the   devotion   with 

liusfia. — 18CS. 


which  it  is  regarded.  The  emperor 
never  fails  to  place  his  lips  on  the  ex- 
posed and  withered  forehead  of  St. 
Philip. 

Hermogenes,  Patriarch  of  Moscow, 
who  fell  a  victim  to  the  Polish  inva- 
sion in  1012,  is  likewise  buried  here. 

The  five  domes  are  support^Ml  by 
pillars  that  ar«^  covered  with  frescoes 
on  a  gold  giound.  There  is  mucii 
gilding  on  the  walls,  but  the  glitter  is 
somewhat  moderated  by  the  grim  re- 
presentations of  departed  saints  of  the 
church.  At  the  same  time  it  is  im- 
possible to  enter  this  time-honoured 
sanctuary  without  a  feeling  of  venera- 
tion, nor  can  a  grander  sight  bo 
possibly  imagined  than  a  coronation 
within  its  ancient  walls,  or  even  a  Te 
Dcum  performed  in  the  presence  of 
the  emperor  and  the  court,  particu- 
larly on  the  -loth  (27th)  August,  the 
annual  feast  of  the  Church,  when  His 
i\Iajesty  sometimes  goes  there  in 
state.  A  coronation  is  of  course  a 
still  better  opportunity.  ''The  corona- 
tion," we  again  extract  from  Stanley, 
"  even  at  the  present  time,  is  not  a 
mere  ceremony,  but  a  historical  event, 
and  solemn  consecration.  It  is  pre- 
ceded by  fasting  and  seclusion,  and 
takes  place  in  the  most  sacred  church 
in  Russia ;  the  emiieror,  not,  as  in  the 
corresix)nding  forms  of  European  in- 
vestiture, a  passive  recipient,  but  him- 
self the  principal  figure  in  the  whole 
scene;  himself  reciting  aloud  the  con- 
fession of  the  orthodox  faith  ;  himself 
alone  on  his  knees,  amidst  the  assem- 
bled multitude,  offering  up  the  prayer 
of  intercession  for  the  empire ;  him- 
self j)lacing  his  own  crown  on  his  own 
head;  himself  entering  through  the 
sacred  door  of  the  innermost  sanctuary, 
and  taking  from  the  altar  the  elements 
of  the  bread  and  wine." 

The  wooden  throne  which  will  be 
shown  to  the  visitor  as  the  throne  of 
Wladimir  Mcmoraachus  (ad.  988;  is 
probably  of  the  17th  century.  The 
Tsars  before  Peter  stood  in  it  attired 
in  their  robes  during  Divine  service. 

Behind  the  altar-screen,  among 
other  treasures,  stands  a  Mount  Sinai 
of  pure  gold,  the  gift  of  Prince  Potem- 
kin.     It  contains  the  Host,  and  is  said 


19G 


Ttoule  G. — Moscoic  :  Cathedrals. 


Sect.  1. 


to  weigh  120,000  durats.  So  vend 
state  papers  of  importance  arc  dc- 
l)ositcd  under  it,  such  as  the  Act  of 
Succession  of  tlie  Emperor  Paid,  and 
tlic  Alxlication  of  Ids  son  Constiintine. 
A  lUblc,  presented  by  the  mother  of 
Peter  the  Great,  is  so  large  that  it 
almost  requires  two  men  to  carry  it, 
and  it  is  said  to  weigh  about  100  lbs. 
Enghsh.  It  is  studded  with  emeralds 
and  other  precious  stones. 

7.  Arhliancfehlil  Sohor,  Cathedral  of 
the  Archangel  Michael. — This  clnirch 
stands  close  to  the  catlie(h*al  of  the 
Assumption,  of  whicli  it  is  i)artly  a 
copy.  It  is  a  square  wliitc  washed 
builthng,  with  nine  gikled  domes,  an<l 
was  originally  built  in  133o  to  com- 
memorate the  deliverance  of  Russia 
from  a  dreadful  famine.  The  present 
building,  however,  only  dates  from 
1505.  In  ancient  days  the  Tsars 
visited  this  cathedral  innncdiately  after 
their  coronation,  and  on  leaving  it 
spread  "largesse"  of  gold  and  silver 
among  the  people.  Until  the  acces- 
sion of  Peter  the  Great,  it  was  the 
mausoleum  of  the  Riu-ik  and  llo- 
manoff  dynasties,  beginning  with  John 
Kalitii,  grandson  of  Alexander  Ne- 
vsky.  The  vaults  below  contain  the 
remains  of  numerous  princes  of  those 
families  ;  their  titles  and  ages  are 
inscribed  on  the  jiall-covcred  tombs, 
among  which  the  stranger  may  wan- 
der. Hound  the  walls,  above  each 
coffin,  are  the  effigies  of  the  dead  in 
long  white  robes.  The  only  emperor 
buried  here  is  Peter  II,,  son  of  the 
unfortunate  Alexis.  To  tlu'  orthodox, 
the  object  of  paramount  attraction  is 
the  tomb  supposed  to  contain  the 
body  of  the  young  DeuKitrius  or 
Dmitri,  son  of  John  the  Terrible,  and 
who,  having  mysteriously  disappeared, 
is  believed  to  have  been  assassinated 
by  orders  of  Boris  GodunolY,  subse- 
quently elected  Tsar.  The  appear- 
ance, later,  of  several  pretenders, 
plunged  the  country  into  internecine 
strife,  causing  great  bloodshed  and 
disorder,  which  only  terminated  on 
the  election  of  Michael  Komanoft".  A 
miracle  connected  with  the  discovery 
of  the  coffin  and  body  ui  the  canonized 


prince  causes  the  shrine  to  be  regarded 
with  extreme  veneration  by  the  peo]>lc, 
who  come  to  kiss  th(i  forehead  exi)0sed 
to  view.  His  portrait,  in  a  frame  of 
fine  gold,  is  attached  to  a  pillar  above 
the  coffin.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
town  of  Uglitch,  where  the  prince  was 
murdered,  presented  the  tall  silver 
candlestick  which  stands  near  the 
tond). 

Historically,  the  tomb  of  gi*eatcst 
interest  is  that  of  John  IV.  or  "  Terri- 
ble," who,  notwithstanding  his  nume- 
rous olTences  against  the  canons  of  the 
Church,  now  lies  next  the  altar.  Twice 
a  year  a  funeral  service  is  j>erformed 
for  the  sins  of  all  tho.se  that  are  buried 
here,  the  Church  i)raying  for  "  that 
burden  of  sins,  voluntary  or  involun- 
tiiry,  known  to  themselves  or  un- 
known," which  thedeparte<l  committed 
when  on  earth.  INIost  of  the  prayers 
jmt  up  at  this  cathedral  have  been 
I)aid  for  in  the  most  handsome  manner 
in  the  shape  of  gorgeous  vestments 
and  massive  ch.  vessels,  exhibited  on 
application  to  the  priest.  Ladies  will 
have  to  remain  outside  the  Ikonostas, 
but  the  male  traveller  must  have  the 
patience  to  insi)ect  the  treasures  of  the 
sacristy,  and,  if  permitted,  to  bring 
them  out  to  the  excluded.  The  eme- 
ralds on  the  richer  ^yJi7.o«  are  liuge 
ami  very  tine.  There  is  a  magnificent 
ilhnninatcd  version  of  the  Gospels  (one 
of  the  earliest  copies  in  Russia),  in  a 
sjilendid  enamelled  cover  of  tine  gold, 
profusely  studded  with  precious  stones. 
Among  other  ecclesiastical  objects, 
too  numerous  to  mention,  is  a  very  old 
lantern  of  mica,  brought  away  from 
Novgorod  by  John  IV.  It  is  in  ex- 
cellent preservation,  having  been  re- 
cently gilded,  and  is  still  carried  iu 
Church  processions. 

A  cross  which  belonged  to  John  the 
Terrible  is  likewise  remarkable  for  the 
size  of  the  pearls  in  it ;  the  emerald  is 
l-3rd  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 

The  altar-screen  is  very  valuable, 
being  much  adorned  with  gold.  One 
of  the  images  or  shrines  in  it  contains 
a  drop  of  the  blo(xl  of  John  the  Bap- 
tist shown  through  a  glass. 

The  priest  should  have  a  lee  for  ex- 
hibiting the  antiquities,  as  well  as  the 


Bussia. 


Hoiite  6. — Moscow  :  Cathedrals. 


197 


sacristan,  who  will  be  found  to  speak 
excellent  French. 

8.  Blagovescliemhi  Sohor.  Cathedral 
of  the  Annunnatlon. — While  the  Tsars 
were  crowned  in  the  cathedral  of  the 
Assumption,  and  buried  in  the  ch. 
dedicated  to  the  Archangel  Michael, 
they  went  through  two  other  very  im- 
portant ceremonies  in  the  cathedral  of 
the  Annunciation,  for  there  they  were 
baptized  and  married.  Numerous 
relics  attest  the  religious  impoi-tance 
of  the  edifice.  John  the  Terrible, 
when  reduced,  by  his  transgression  of 
the  canon  law,  to  the  state  of  a  cate- 
chumen, listened  outside  the  walls  of 
the  cathedral  to  the  mass  celebrated 
within,  but  the  window  at  whicli  he 
stood  is  no  longer  visible.  The  French 
stabled  their  horses  there  in  1812. 
The  frescoes  are  curious.  Those  in 
the  portico  reiu-esenting  the  Greek 
Philosophers  as  heralds  of  the  coming 
of  Christ  slioidd  be  noticed.  The 
floor  is  jiaved  with  jasper  and  agate. 

9.  Church  of  the  liedeemer  in  the 
Wood  {SjmsH  ?ja  Borii). — This  sacred 
miniature  edifice  is  almost  concealed 
by  the  huge  palace  buildings.  The 
traveller  is  sure  to  catch  a  glimpse  of 
it  from  one  of  the  palace  windows.  It  is 
one  of  the  oldest  churches  in  the  Krem- 
lin, or  even  in  Moscow,  and  was  ori- 
ginally founded  where  a  small  wood 
once  crowned  the  summit  of  the  emi- 
nence now  occupied  by  the  Kremlin. 
It  was  a  monastery  in  the  15th  centy. 
The  fires  of  JMoscow  and  its  invaders 
have  left  but  little  of  antiquarian  in- 
terest to  attract  the  notice  of  the  tra- 
veller. It  is  only  interesting  as  the 
l)arent  ch.  of  Moscow,  and  as  contain- 
ing the  relics  of  Steplien  of  I'erm,  the 
first  Christian  missionaiy  and  martyr 
in  Russia.  His  life  is  depicted  in 
I'rescoes  around  the  walls,  renovated 
in  18G3. 

10.  Sacrhty  of  the  former  FatriarcliSy 
and  now  ofthtUolySynodyPatriarshaya 
(Synodalnaya)  Biznitsa. — This  was  the 
Treasury,  Library,  and  Vestry,  first  of 
the  ancient  metropolitans  of  Russia, 
then  of  the  Patriarchs  of  Moscow,  and 


is  now  called  the  House  of  the  Holy 
Synod,  an  institution  which  replaced 
the  Patriarchate  in  1721,  in  the  reign 
of  Peter  the  Great.     It  stands  close  to 
the  Cathedral  of  the  Assumption,  and 
is  open  daily  to  visitors.     The  Saci  isty 
contains  many  objects  of  art  of  great 
antiquity,  a  tew  of  whicli  have  been 
brought    from   Constantinople.      The 
sacerdotal   robes  and   ornaments,  the 
church  vessels,  and  the  plate  of  the 
several  patriarchs  are  deposited  here. 
Among  the   former   may   be    noticed 
some  very  rich  robes  or  sakkos ;    the 
most  venerable  of  these  is  that  of  St. 
Peter,  who  was  Metropolitan  between 
the  years  1308  and  1325.     Most  of  the 
Patriarchs    of  Moscow  were   invested 
with  this  sacred  garment  at  their  con- 
secration.    Among  the  sakkos.  No.  15, 
of  crimson  velvet,  is  the  most  remark- 
able for  the  richness  of  its  ornaments ; 
it  is  embroidered  all  over  with  pearls 
of  a  large  size,  although  but   few  of 
them  are  characterised  by  the  round 
and  symmetrical  forms  that  are  valued 
in  jewellery;  it  is  also  adorned  by  a 
nmnbcr  of  small  gold  plates  with  sa- 
cred subjects  and  devices  produced  in 
niello-work.     The  rubies,  emeralds,  al- 
mandincs,  garnets,  and  diamonds  with 
which  this  gorgeous  pontifical  robe  is 
further  ornamented,  contribute  to  the 
54  [Kjunds  which  it  is  said  to  weigh. 
John  the  Terrible  presented  it  to  the 
IMetropolitan    Denys,    in    memory   of 
the  Tsesarevitcli  John,  and  probably 
in   expiation  of  his  murder.     These 
ancient  robes,  in  their  lavish  magnifi- 
cence, jiresent  a  curious  contrast  to  the 
more  simple,  although  still  gorgeous, 
vestments  in  which  the  Emperor  Alex- 
ander II.  clothed  the  venerable  Philaret 
at  his  coronation  in  185G. 

The  mitres,  seven  in  number,  depo- 
sited in  the  second  room,  are  no  less 
rich  and  interesting.  The  most  ancient 
was  worn  by  the  Patriarch  Job  in  1595. 
Four  of  them  belonged  to  the  cele- 
brated Nicon.  The  most  valuable  of 
these,  called  the  great  mitre,  is  studded 
with  large  diamonds,  rubies,  emeralds, 
sapphires,  and  pearls,  and  weighs  5^ 
ix)unds. 

In  glazed  cases  at  the  windows  will 
be  found  several  2^((nagias,  t)r  images 

L  2 


198 


Hotde  6. — Moscow :  Cathedrals. 


Sect.  T. 


worn  on  a  chain  round  the  necks  of 
hishops  and  other  members  of  the 
hierarchy.  The  most  remarkable  are 
— No.  11,  in  gold,  semi-oval,  orna- 
mented with  spinel  rubies  and  large 
pearls,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  an 
onyx  bearing  in  cameo  a  figure  of  the 
proi)het  Daniel.  This  gem  was  worn 
l)y  tlie  Metropolitsxn  Peter.  No.  2,  the 
Jigiires  of  the  Virgin  and  infant  Sa- 
viour, cut  in  low  relief  in  a  Byzantine 
style,  but  probably  work  of  cinque- 
cento  date,  on  a  magnificent  sardonyx 
of  three  layers.  No.  3,  a  sardonyx  of 
equal  splendour,  on  which  a  figure  of 
St.  John  the  Scholastic  is  cut  in  u 
brown  up}x^r  layer,  resting  on  two 
strata  that  form  a  vast  nicolo  of  perfect 
beauty,  the  strata  of  the  stone  being 
well  exliibittd  by  the  bevilling  of  its 
sides.  The  work  on  this  skme  is  also 
probably  of  the  cinquecento  period, 
and  is  supposed  to  have  been  executed 
for  John  the  Terrible,  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  birth  of  his  unfortunate  s<jn 
in  1555.  At  the  back  of  this  gem  is  a 
reliquary  containing  a  fragment  of  the 
purple  rolje  in  which  our  Saviour  was 
in  derision  clothed,  and  a  })iece  of  the 
rock  of  Calvary.  Tlie  enamel  on  the 
back  represents  ]Mark,  Bishop  of  Are- 
thut-a,  and  Cyril  the  Deacon.  These 
two  great  sardonyxes  are  of  nearly 
equal  dimensions,  each  being  about  8^ 
inches  long  and  2^  in  breadth.  In  No. 
4  we  meet  with  another  gem,  a  dark 
onyx  with  a  white  surface  layer,  in 
which  is  cut  in  relief  a  representation 
of  tiie  Crucifixion.  On  the  other  side 
is  seen  a  (ireek  cross,  supported  by  the 
Emperor  Constantine  and  his  mother 
Helena.  This  panagia  was  worked  for 
Job  the  first  Patriarch,  who  was  con- 
secrated in  1589,  and  who  in  1G05  was 
driven  by  a  rebel  mob  from  the  altar 
in  the  Cathedral  of  the  Assumption 
and  divested  of  his  Pontifical  robes. 
Among  the  rest  of  the  ornaments  of 
this  kind  are  several  of  very  fine  work- 
mansiiip  in  gold  and  enamel,  attributed 
to  a  very  early  period. 

Of  the  crosiers  exhibited  here  three 
belonged  to  the  Patriarch  Philaret, 
and  the  other  two  were  carried  by  the 
Patriarch  Nicon. 

A  copper  vase,  with  a  long  narrow 


neck,  overlaid  with  scales  of  mother-of- 
pearl,  and  called  the  Ahibaster,  is  hero 
shown  as  the  original  receptacle  of  the 
chrism  sent  from  Constantinople.  It 
is,  however,  evidently  of  more  modern 
date.  The  few  drops  annually  taken 
from  it  are  by  ancient  usage  replaced 
by  an  wiual  quantity  of  the  new  chrism, 
which  tiius  represents  to  the  fiiithful  a 
portion  of  the  precious  ointment  used 
by  Mary  3Iagdalene. 

The  plate  of  tlie  patriarchs,  kept  in 
a  large  glass  case,  is  chiefly  of  the  ITtli 
centy.  Most  of  the  goblets,  dishes, 
and  cups  bear  the  names  of  their 
donors,  or  of  the  i)ersons  to  whom  they 
belonged. 

A  complete  account  of  the  ecclesias- 
tical treasures  of  the  sacristy  will  Ijo 
found  in  a  small  work  in  the  French 
language  which  may  be  purchased  on 
the  spot. 

In  a  contiguous  room,  shown  on 
application  to  the  Sacristan,  is  pre- 
pared, in  strict  accordance  with  an 
ancient  fornmla,  the  sacred  oil  or 
"mir,"  employed  in  the  baptism  of 
every  orthodox  Russian  subject.  It  is 
also  used  in  the  con.secration  of  all  the 
churches  of  the  orthcKlox  connnunion, 
and  in  the  anointment  of  tlie  emperors 
at  their  coronation.  At  the  baptism 
of  chiklren  the  priest  crosses  with  a 
small  camel-hair  brush,  or  feather, 
dipped  in  the  oil,  the  mouth,  eyes, 
ears,  hands,  and  feet,  besides  the  back 
and  breast :  the  eyes  are  anointed  in 
order  that  the  child  may  only  see 
good,  the  ears  that  they  may  admit 
only  what  is  pure,  the  mouth  that  he 
may  speak  as  becomes  a  Christian,  the 
hands  that  they  may  do  no  wrong,  and 
the  feet  that  they  may  tread  ni  the 
path  of  virtue.  The  ingredient  tliat 
hallows  this  preparation  is  an  infi- 
nitesimal portion  of  the  siicred  oil 
transmitted  from  Constantinople  when 
Christianity  was  introduced  into  Rus- 
sia. The  chrism  is  annually  prepared 
during  Lent,  with  much  solemnity,  by 
the  Metropolitan  of  ISIoscow  and  the 
higher  clergy.  It  is  composed  of 
nearly  thirty  different  elements,  oil 
and  white  wine  being  intermixed  with 
a  great  variety  of  gums,  balsams, 
essential  oils,  and  s[>ices.     Two  great 


Russia. 


Haute  6, — Moscow :  Convents, 


199 


silver  kettles  and  a  still  larger  silver 
caldron,  all  presented  by  the  Empress 
Catherine  II.,  and  kept  in  the  plate- 
room,  receive  the  sacred  mixture 
during  its  preparation ;  it  is  then 
poured  into  sixteen  silver  jars,  gifts  of 
the  P^mperor  Paul,  and  distributed  on 
ai)plication  to  the  bishops  of  the  seve- 
ral dioceses.  The  ladles,  the  sieve  for 
straining,  and  everything  employed  in 
the  operation  are  of  silver,  and  weigh 
together  about  13  cwt. 

The  Library  of  the  Patriarchs  or 
Synod  is  sui)posed  to  have  been  founded 
by  the  ancient  Metropolitans,  but  its 
greatest  treasures  were  acquired  during 
the  Patriarchate  of  Nicon  (1G52-1G58), 
for  the  purpose  of  comparing  the  cor- 
rupted ritual  of  the  Russo-Greek 
Church  with  the  more  ancient  manu- 
scripts, Greek  and  Slavonian.  The 
printed  books  which  the  library  ori- 
ginally contained  have  been  removed 
to  other  colleciions.  In  1823  the  Sy- 
nodal Library  }x)asted  of  4G7  Greek 
IMSS.,  of  which  242  on  parchment ; 
and  95G  Russo-Slavonian  MSS.,  of 
which  9G  on  parchment.  Very  few 
additions  have  been  made  since.  Three 
copies  in  (ireek  of  the  Evangelists,  de- 
posited here,  are  attributed  to  the  8th 
centy.,  and  the  earliest  Slavonian  MS. 
in  this  collection  is  supposed  to  have 
been  written  in  the  year  1073.  The 
most  ancient  Slavonian  version  of  the 
Gospels,  in  this  library,  bears  the  date 
of  1143. 

The  Metropolitan,  or  the  Suffragan 
Bisho])  of  Moscow,  will,  on  application, 
give  the  student  of  patristic  literature 
ready  access  to  this  extensive  and  im- 
jK)rtant  collection.  A  catalogue  in 
Russian  may  be  purchased  of  the 
sacristan,  whose  kind  services  should 
be  rewarded. 

11.  CUudof  01'  Miracle  Monastery  (at 
the  Redeemer  Gate). — The  sjwt  on 
which  this  monastery  stands  was  occu- 
pied during  the  Tartar  invasion  by  the 
stables  of  Djanibek,  the  dominant 
Khan,  whose  wife,  Taidula,  having 
been  cured  of  a  disease  by  St.  Alexis, 
Metropolitan  of  all  Russia,  presented 
the  latter  with  the  ground  now  so 
holy.      In  13G5  St.  Alexis  laid  the 


foundation  of  the  monastery,  which 
thenceforth  became  the  residence  and 
Cathedral  of  the  Primates.  Successive 
fires  destroyed  the  buildings  erected 
by  the  piety  of  various  princely  bene- 
factors. The  Cathedral  was  restored 
by  the  Tsar  Michael  and  his  father 
the  Patriarch  Philaret,  but  its  present 
appearance  is  due  to  the  mimificence 
of  the  Empresses  Anne  and  Elizabeth. 
It  was  sacked  during  a  revolt  in  1771, 
and  pillaged  in  1812,  when  it  was 
occupied  by  the  staff  of  Napoleon. 
Before  the  spoliation  of  the  monasteries 
by  Catherine  II.,  this  establishment 
had  no  less  than  18,681  male  serfs 
attached  to  it.  The  church  of  St. 
IMichael  was  built  by  St.  Alexis  in 
13G5,  rebuilt  1504,  and  restored  in 
1779.  Its  canonised  founder  lies  in  a 
silver  shrine  near  the  S.  wall  of  tho 
cathedral  dediciited  to  his  name.  His 
Sakkos  and  other  pontificals  are  pre- 
served in  a  glass  case  near  the  shrine. 
St.  Michael's  Church  stands  in  the 
yard  of  the  monastery,  and  is  not  open 
daily.  It  is,  however,  well  worth 
seeing  since  its  restoration  in  tlio 
ancient  style.  The  sacristy  contains  a 
MS.  copy  of  the  New  Testament  exe- 
cuted by  St.  Alexis,  and  much  treasm-o 
in  the  shape  of  jewelled  vestments  and 
religious  insignia.  The  library  con- 
tains 23G  MSS.  on  parchment  aud 
paper,  and  199  printed  books.  There 
is  a  Psalter  of  the  13th  centy.  and 
another  of  the  15th.  The  oldest 
printed  books  are  of  the  17tli  centy. 
By  ancient  custom,  children  before 
being  put  to  school  are  brought  by 
their  parents  to  this  monastery  to 
invoke  the  blessing  of  St.  Alexis  on 
their  studies,  and  the  peasants  of  a 
village  formerly  belonging  to  the  saint 
still  come  on  his  name-day  to  pray  to 
their  Lord. 

12.  Vosnesenski  Devichi  (Ascension) 
Convent. — This  nunnery  was  founded 
by  Eudoxia,  wife  of  Dimitry  of  the 
Don,  in  1393,  who  retired  to  it  after 
the  death  of  the  Conqueror  of  Kuli- 
kova.  Although  the  princess  fasted 
rigorously  and  wore  heavy  weights,  she 
was  wont  to  appear  in  the  world  attired 
in  costly  dress  and  precious  stones, 


200 


Boute  G. — Moscow :  Arsenal, 


Sect.  I. 


thereby  giving  rise  to  a  certain  amount 
of  scandal,  which  slie  however  refuted 
by  exhibiting  the  withering  eftects  of 
her  self-imposed  jienance.     At  last, 
however,  she  retired  entirely  from  the 
world,  and  devoted  her  life  to  prayer 
and  the  healing  of  the  sick.     Thcnce- 
fortli   the    nunnery  became    the    last 
resting-place  of  the  princesses  of  the 
reigning  house.    Consumed  frequently 
by  tires,  the  convent  in  its  i)resent  form 
was  built  in  1721,  and  renovated  after 
the  conflagration    of    1737    and    the 
French  occupation.    The  colls  occupy 
2  floors  of  a  large  stone  building.    The 
principal  church  stands  in  tiie  centre 
of  tile  court.     The  tombs  of  the  i)rin- 
cesses  begin  at  the  S.  door  and  termi- 
nate at  tlie  N.  entrance,  being  mnged 
iu   two   rows   aloni^  tlie  walls.      The 
most  ancient  is  that  of  Eudoxia,  or  St. 
Eudoxia,   as    she    is    called    by    the 
Church,  adorned  with  a  silver  shrhie 
placed  in  1822.     On  the  rt.  hand  near 
the  wall  lies  Eudoxia,  the  consort  of 
Michael,  the  first    sovereign    of   the 
llomanoff'  dynasty  (obiit  1G45) :  next 
to  her  are  the  2  wives  of  his  son 
Alexis.     The  tombs  of  tlie  2  wives  of 
Jojin  III.  will  be  found  on  the  1.,  at 
the  head  of  the  toml)    of   Eudoxia. 
Next  in  the  corner  lies  the  first  of  his 
consorts,  Mary,  daughter  of  the  Prince 
of  Tver ;  and  by  her  side  are  the  re- 
mains of  S()i)lii:i,  daughter  of  Thomas 
Palicologus,  brother  of  the  last  Chris- 
tian Emperor  of  Constantinople.     An- 
other descendant  of  this  Pala^ologus 
lies  buried  in  the  cliurchyard  of  the 
parish  of  T.andnlph  in  Cornwall.     He 
died   in    1G3G.     The  mother  of  John 
tlie  Terrible  comes  next.    Beyond  are 
the  tombs  of  4  of  his  G  wives ;  the  last 
tomb  is  that  of  Eudoxia,  first  consort 
of  Peter  the  Great,  who  died  in  1731. 


13.  Arsenal  and  Cannon. — The  arse- 
nal stands  between  the  Trinity  and 
Nicholas  (iates,  on  the  spot  where  the 
Streltsi  once  mustered,  and  where 
stood  the  houses  of  many  puissant 
Boyars.  Its  construction,  on  the 
model  of  tlie  arsenal  of  Venice,  was 
commenced  in  1701,  and  finished  in 
173G.  Tlie  N.E.  angle  was  blown  up 
in  1812,  and  has  since  been  restored. 


The  cannon  taken  during  the  retreat 
of  the  French  are  arranged  in  long 
rows  along  the   outside  walls  of  the 
building.      The    French    artillery    is 
represented   by   365   pieces,  the  Aus- 
trian by  189,  the  Pi-ussian  by  123,  the 
Italian  by  70.  the  Neaiwlitaii  by  40, 
the  Bavarian  by  34,  the  Dutch  by  22, 
the  Saxon  by  12,  the  Spanish  by  8,  the 
Polish  by  5,  while  Westi)halia,  Han- 
over, aiul  Wurtemburg,  make  up  the 
total  of  87.").     The  rest  are  mere  orna- 
mental   i)ieces  of   ordnance    cast    in 
Piussia.     The  huge  cannon  projecting 
from  the  furthest  angle  of  the  arsenal 
is   cfilleil   the   Tsar-Pushka   or   Tsar- 
Cannon,  on  account  of  its  extraordi- 
nary  .size.      It   was   cast   durhig   the 
reign  of  Theodore,  whose  effigy  is  on 
it.      Its    weight    is    nearly    40   tons. 
There  is  also  a  mortar  which  was  cast 
by   the   false   Hmitry.      Wlien  Peter, 
after  the  battle  of  Narva,  ordered  the 
old  cannon  and  many  church-bells  to 
hii  recast  into  ordnance,  lie  sjiared  this 
historical    monument    by    a    special 
Ukaz.     The  longest  caniion  was  cast 
in  the  rei^n  of  Alexis.     The  building 
oi)i)osite    is    the    Senate-house  —  the 
High  Court  of  Ajijieal  of  JMoscow.    It 
was  built  by  Catherine  II.,  and    re- 
stored 18GG.     In  it  are  estaldished  the 
new  Courts  of  Law,  with  trial  liy  juiy 
in  criminal  cases.     The  magnificent 
hall  is  well  worth  seeinir. 


II.  Kit  at  Gorod,  or  "  Chinese  Town,'* 
— The  Knnilin  having  becx^me  over- 
crowded, Helena,  the  mother  and  re- 
gent of  John  the  Terrible,  ordcretl  a 
large  space  to  be  enclosed  outside  the 
Kremlin,  and  to  be  called  after  her 
birthiilace  Kitaigrod  in  Podolia.  Tho 
Kremlin  was  the  CashUnui  and  tho 
Kitai  the  Civitas.  The  walls  were 
commenced  in  1535  by  Petroc,  an 
Italian.  The  following  objects  should 
be  visited  in  the  Kitai  Gorod  :— 

1.  Cathedra}  of  St.  Basil  the  Beatified. 
Vassill  Blajennol  (also  called  the  Ca- 
thedral   of   the   Protection    and    the 
Trinity).— This  remarkable  eh.  stands 
on  the  Krasnaya   Ploschad  (lieil   or 


Iinssia. 


Itouie  6. — Moscow :  Tlie  Lohnoe  Mesto, 


201 


Beautiful  Place),  outside  the  Holy 
Gate  of  the  Kremlin  wall.  It  is 
erected  on  the  site  of  an  ancient  ch. 
and  cemetery,  in  whicli  the  sainted 
Basil,  a  popular  prophet  and  worker 
of  miracles,  who,  in  the  language  of 
the  Church,  was  ''idiotic  for  Christ's 
sake,"  was  buried  in  the  year  1552. 
Two  years  later  John  the  Terrible 
ordered  a  ch.  to  be  built  over  the  re- 
mtdiis  of  Basil,  in  commemoration  of 
the  subjugation  of  Kazan.  In  1555  the 
wooden  ch.  thus  built  was  taken  down 
and  the  foundation  of  the  present  edi- 
iice  laid.  Its  architect  was  an  Italian, 
whose  eyes,  tradition  wrongly  reports, 
were  put  out  by  John  the  Terrible  after 
the  construction  of  the  ch.,  in  order  that 
it  might  not  be  equalled  or  surpassed. 
It  is  suiiposed  to  have  been  fini.shed  in 
the  latter  i)art  of  the  IGth  centv.  bv 
Theodore,  the  son  and  .successor  of 
John  IV.,  who  caused  to  be  placed  in 
this  ch.  the  relics  of  another  saint, 
John  the  Idiot,  surnamed  the  "  "Water- 
carrier  and  Big-cap,"  from  his  habit  of 
carrying  water  for  others,  and  from  his 
wearing  a  heavy  iron  caj)  on  his  head. 
Idiotcy  is  a  form  of  mendicancy  very 
coinmon  in  Ilussia,  the  people  being 
religiously  compassionate  in  cases  of 
mental  aberration.  Beggars  of  this 
description  still  go  about  Moscow  bare- 
fw)ted  in  winter.  The  ch.  of  St.  Basil 
suft'ered  frequently  from  fire,  and  was 
under  repair  from  1744  to  1784.  In 
1812  Napoleon  ordered  the  general  in 
command  of  his  artillery  '•  to  destroy 
that  mo.sque ; "  but  it  was  sj^rod  for 
reconsecration  on  the  1st  December  of 
the  same  year. 

The  cathedral  is  grotesquely  irregu- 
lar in  appeamnce.  It  has  11  domes, 
each  difl'crent  in  colour  and  design, 
surmounting  as  many  chapels  dedicated 
to  various  saints.  The  shrine  of  St. 
Basil  reposes  in  the  chapel  below, 
which  is  alone  open  daily.  In  order 
to  see  the  upper  Chapels  application 
must  be  made  to  the  clergy  of  the 
church.  Visitors  will  be  shown  the 
heavy  chains  and  crosses  which  St. 
Basil  wore  for  jK^nance.  Tlie  iron 
weights  which  belonged  to  the  other 
idiot  will  be  viewed  in  another  chapel. 
His  cap  was  lost  in  1812. 


2.  The  " Lohnoe'  Mesto"  a  circular 
tribune  of  stone  outside  the  cathedral 
of  St.  Basil.— It  was  also  called  the 
"  Kranievo  Mesto,"  from  cranium,  its 
present  appellation  being  also  deriveji 
from  loh,  a  skull,  or  golgotha.  But  as 
the  tribune  was  built  by  Italian  archi- 
tects early  in  the  IGth  centy.,  its  name 
is  ])robably  identical  with  the  lohium 
or  lohia,  in  the  dialect  of  Milan — a 
raised  place  or  opiii  portico  where 
the  citizens  assembled  to  deliberate, 
suggestive  of  the  lohhy  of  the  House  of 
Commons.  Popular  tradition  asserts 
that  this  tribune  was  anciently  a  place 
of  execution ;  but  modern  arclueolo- 
gists  dispute  it,  and  insist  on  its  having 
been  merely  a  place  from  which  the 
Tsar  addressed  the  people,  and  where 
his  edicts  were  proclaimed.  The  first 
mention  of  the  Eobnoe'  INIesto  is  in 
1549,  after  a  dreadful  fire  and  riot, 
when  John  the  Terrible  stood  on  it,  and 
weejiing  acknowledged  his  misrule  and 
solemnly  promised  to  be  in  future  the 
judge  and  defender  of  his  subjects.  The 
metrojiolitan  and  patriarchs  of  INIoscow 
blessed  the  people  from  this  tribune. 
Nicon  stood  here  and  gave  Alexis  that 
blessing  which,  having  been  ineflica- 
eious  in  overturning  the  Poles,  brought 
down  uix)n  him  the  wrath  of  his  sove- 
reign and  laid  the  foundation  of  his 
disgrace.  The  ceremony  of  riding  on 
an  ass,  performed  in  great  state  by  the 
patriarchs  before  Easter,  was  opened  by 
the  reading  of  the  Gospels  on  this 
Golgotha.  The  patriarch,  carrying  the 
cup  and  the  Gospels,  mounted  an  ass 
at  the  foot  of  the  tribune,  and  the  Tsar 
led  it  by  the  bridle  to  the  cathedral  of 
the  Assumption.  In  1GS2  the  leaders 
of  the  Dissenters  addressed  the  Mosco- 
vites  from  the  Lobnoe  Mesto  in  defence 
of  their  objections  to  the  innovations  of 
Nicon.  The  space  in  front  remained 
the  place  of  execution  until  1727,  when 
Peter  II.  ordered  the  gallows  and  stakes 
to  be  removed. 

3.  The  Bomanoff  House  {Valaia 
Boijar  Bomanovylh). — A  visit  to  this 
palatinm  will  aflbrd  the  traveller  an 
opportunity  of  studying  the  archi- 
tecture and  mode  of  life  of  the  Itus- 
sians  in  the  middle  ages.  The  Romanoff 


202 


Monte  G. — Moscow:  Ttomanoff House. 


Sect.  I. 


Hoiiso,  restored  between  1856  and  1859, 
was  the  birthplace  of  Michael,  the  first 
sovereign  of  the  reigning  dynasty, 
whose  father,  the  IJoyar  Theodore, 
known  later  as  Philaret.  Patiiarcli  of 
Moscow,  was  also  brought  \\\)  there. 
The  external  walls,  built  of  stone,  are 
alone  of  undoubted  antiquity  :  the  in- 
terior, after  having  been  ravaged  by 
fire  and  sacked  by  the  French,  is  now 
entirelv  rebuilt  in  tlie  style  of  Rns^sian 
dwelling-houses  of  the  KJth  and  ITtii 
centuries.  It  is  more  a  museum  of 
ancient  domestic  art  than  a  monument 
of  antiquity. 

Tlie  house  stands  on  the  sloj^e  of  a 
small  eminence,  and  has  4  stories 
on  the  S.  towards  the  court,  and  only 
one  facing  Yarvarskaia-street,  where 
it  occupies  a  frontage  of  about  57  ft. 
The  principal  entrance  is  from  the 
court. 

Cellars  for  wine,  mead,  beer,  kvass, 
and  ice,  form  the  basement ;  the  next 
story  is  devoted  to  tlie  kitchen  and 
various  ottices.  The  ajjartments  of  the 
Boyar  are  above.  These  consist  of  a 
vestibule,  to  the  right  of  which  is  a 
room  for  female  servants;  next  to  this 
again  visitors  will  tiiid  a  diminutive 
nurserv,  in  which  are  exhibited  the 
toys  and  primers  of  the  period.  Tiic 
largest  room  on  this  floor  is  called 
the  Chaix-l,  or  "  Krestovaya  "  (Chamber 
of  the  Cross).  Here  the  chief  of  the 
family  received  the  priests  who  came 
to  offer  their  congratulations  at  Christ- 
mas, Easter,  and  other  great  holydays, 
and  assisted  with  his  dependants  at 
matins  and  vespers.  The  roof  is  arched 
in  a  kind  of  Gothic  style  with  niches, 
the  whole  being  ricldy  ornamented 
witli  devices  taken  from  i)atents  deli- 
vered bv  the  Tsar  Michael. 

The  family  plate  and  other  valuables 
were  preserved  in  this  sacred  chamber. 
Some  curious  specimens  are  exhibited 
on  a  stand,  which,  in  tlie  language  of 
the  country,  was  called  a  ijorha  or 
mountain.  The  traveller  will  recog- 
nise a  small  equestrian  stjituette  of 
Charles  I.,  and  by  their  make  2  ewers 
presented  by  Charles  II.  At  great 
festivals  the  plate  was  pih'd  up  in  the 
centre  of  the  table.  Goblets  and  other 
vessels  of  silver  were  very  much  in 


I  fashion,  and  were,  in  the  absence  of 
orders  of  knighthood  and  of  medals, 
bestowed  by  the  sovereign  in  recom- 
pense of  meritorious  services.  There 
are  many  objects  of  antiquity  in  this 
chamber  illustrative  of  the  domestic 
habits  of  the  Tsars.  There  are  also 
several  secret  recesses  in  the  walls  for 
the  concealment  of  treasure.  A  glass 
cu]»board  contains  some  ancient  images, 
and  among  them  is  one  with  which, 
tradition  says,  Philaret  blessed  his  son 
when  he  was  elected  Tsar,  and  with 
that  image  also  the  present  meti*f)po- 
litan  I'hilaret  blessed  the  Eniper«»r 
Alexander  II.  at  the  benediction  of 
the  Komanoff  House  on  its  restoration. 
Alongside  this  chamber  are  a  small 
oratory  and  the  '*  IJoyarskaia  I'alata," 
a  kind  of  study.  On  a  table  in  the 
latter  are  writing  materials  and  two 
brass  inkstands  after  tlie  model  of 
those  used  in  England  in  the  days  of 
Chaucer.  The  li(m  and  unicorn,  with 
which  these  are  decorated  in  relief, 
are  IJyzantine  emblems,  and  have 
nothing  to  do  with  the  supporters  of 
the  royal  arms  of  England. 

It  is  heated  by  a  stove  of  coloured 
tiles  with  allegorical  figures  and  varicms 
inscriptions;  thus  on  one  brick  the 
visitor  will  see  two  birds  separating 
from  each  other,  with  the  motto, 
"Fidelity  unites  us;"'  on  another  a 
tortoise  with  the  humorous  adage, 
"There  is  no  better  house  than  one's 
own."  JEsop's  fables  were  frequently 
rej)resented  on  the  bricks  of  that  periml. 

A  door  leads  from  the  Krestovaya, 
by  a  narrow  staircase,  to  the  top  story 
or  tereui,  a  name  sui)j)0sed  to  Ix'  de- 
rived from  a  (ireek  word,  signifying 
"upper  floor  reserved  for  women." 
The  terem  is  built  of  wood,  and  in- 
cludes the  l)edchamber,  the  svetlitsa  or 
reception-room,  and  atuiTet. 

Below  are  two  rooms  which  formed 
the  Nursery.  In  it  will  be  seen  a 
cradle,  toys,  primers,  &c.,  of  the  early 
jxirt  of  tile  17th  centy. 

The  walls  and  ceiling  of  the  bed- 
chamber are  very  richly  carved  in 
woo<l  after  ancient  patterns.  Benches, 
covered  with  brocade,  line  the  walls, 
and  an  old  4-post  bedstead  com])letes 
the  furniture  of  the  apartment.     There 


Eussia. 


Boute  6. — Moscow:  Bazaar. 


203 


is  a  small  box  at  the  foot  of  the  bed, 
which  the  curious  are  advised  to  look 
into.  It  contains,  among  other  things, 
the  slipjx?rs  of  the  Tsar,  and  the 
chemise  de  nuit  of  a  Tsarina.  The 
room  next  to  it  is  the  hall  of  reception; 
its  walls  are  covered  with  stiimped 
leather.  There  is  a  charming  view 
from  the  windows  of  this  apartment 
towards  the  city,  beyond  the  Moskva 
and  Yaouza  rivers. 

The  roof,  which  is  covered  with  tin 
jdatx^'s,  is  prettily  ornamented  with  oi)en 
work  in  coi)[)er,  and  a  pavilion  on  the 
west  is  surmounted  by  a  vane,  in  the 
form  of  a  grilhn,  holding  a  short  sword 
in  one  paw  and  a  shield  in  the  other, 
being  the  offensive  and  defensive 
weapons  Ix^rne  in  the  Romanoff  arms. 

The  lions  on  the  staircase  bear 
shiehls  with  the  same  cognizance. 

A  email  fee  should  be  given  to  the 
two  servants  at  the  door.  Open  on 
IMondays  and  Thursdays  by  ticket,  to 
be  obtained  at  the  ofWce  within  the 
Kremlin. 

In  the  same  street  stood  the  house  of 
the  first  English  merchants  in  Russia, 
where  they  also  coined  money.  It  is 
now  called  the  Sibirskoe'  Podvorie,  or 
Siberian  hostelry. 

4.  Sirusfny  (Passion)  Monastery. 
General  View  of  Moscow. — The  traveller 
will  by  tliis  time  be  tired  of  viewing 
palaces  and  antiquities,  and  will  be 
glad  to  see  other  objects.  He  is  there- 
fore advised  to  i)roceed  to  the  "  Strastny 
Monastir."  not  far  from  the  governor's 
house,  which  stands  on  some  of  the 
highest  ground  in  IMoscow,  and  affonls 
an  excellent  view  of  the  city.  The 
belfry  may  be  ascended  without  any 
permission,  the  door  leading  to  it 
being  generally  open.  Although  the 
tower  of  Ivan  Veliki  is  loftier,  yet  the 
panorama  seen  from  the  belfry  of 
the  Strastny,  situated  in  the  heart 
of  the  city,  gives  a  far  better  impres- 
sion of  its  size  and  beauty. 

Tiiere  is  nothine:  of  interest  within 


the 


'trastnv 


It  dates   from  the 


reign  of  -tVlexis,  and  was  restored  in 
177U. 

5.  Gostinnoi  Dror.  or  Bazaar. — The 


trade   of  Moscow  has  been  centered 
within   the   Kitai   Gorod  since  1596. 
The  Gostinnoi  Dvor  is  a  colossal  build- 
ing of  3  stories,  and  the  shops  and  pas- 
sages form  a  perfect  labyrinth.     The 
statue  opposite  the  bazaar   represents 
Minin   the  peasant    urging   I'ojarsky 
the  boyar  to  deliver  Moscow  from  his 
enemies    the    Poles.      The    traveller 
should  ask  to  see  the  Serebriani  Riad 
or  Silver  Row,  where  spoons  and  other 
small  articles  of  plate  of  Russian  manu- 
facture may  be  cheaply  bought ;  brace- 
lets and  snuff-boxca  of  Tula  or  niello- 
work  make  very  pretty  j)resents,  the 
former  costing  3  to  4  r.     There  are  2 
or  3  curiosity  shops  in  the  same  row ; 
but  travellers  unacquainted  with  tho 
system  of  bargaining  should  be  very 
careful  in  making  purchases,  and  con- 
fine themselves  to  a  general  view  of 
the  market.     (Purchasers  of  pictures, 
old  china,  and  silver,  should  visit  Rodi- 
onofs  shop  in  Pokrovka-street.)     The 
use  of  the  stcheti  or  abacus  (the  Tartar 
suanpan)  is  a  curious  feature  in  Rus- 
sian trading,   and  will  be  constantly 
seen  here.     A  little  way  beyond  the 
bazaar,   on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
street,  are  some  shops  where  Circassian 
wares  are  sold.     Experience,  however, 
speaks  in  favour  of  the  assortments  of 
these   goods  at  St.  Petersburg.     The 
washing  silks  of  the  Caucasus,  at  about 
1  r.  25  c.  the  arshin,  are  very  good. 
The  secondhand  shops  along  the  wall 
of  the   Kitai   Gorod   present  an  odd 
mixture  of  trades  and  mercantile  types. 
The  visitor  may  stroll  i)ast  them.    The 
only  other  market  worthy  of  a  rapid 
glance  is,  during   the  jiropcr   season, 
the   winter  market  out;>ide  the  Kitai 
walls. 

Immediately  after  the  frost  has  fairly 
set  in,  an  indiscriminate  slaughter  of 
live  stock  of  all  kinds  commences. 
The  carcase  is  exposed  at  once  to  the 
cold  air  and  frozen,  without  being 
previously  allowed  to  become  cokl : 
when  wanted  for  use,  it  is  immersed 
in  Water  for  a  few  minutes,  and  after 
being  thus  thawed  the  meat  may  bo 
used,  but  it  has  not  the  freshness  and 
flavour  that  it  would  have  if  just 
killed ;  when  once  thawed  it  must 
be  cooked  without  delay.     If  it  has 

L  3 


204 


Boute  ^.—Moscoio :  Foundling  Eospttah 


Sect.  I. 


been  allowed  to  cool  before  it  is  frozen, 
althon,i;h  no  ditfercnce  is  perceptible 
while  in  its  frozen  state,  immediately 
on  being  thawed  the  meat  turns  black, 
and  is  totally  unfit  for  use;  and  the 
same  result  ensues  upon  the  frost 
breaking  up  in  the  spring.  But  it  cer- 
tainly is  a  good  expedient,  not  only  to 
save  the  expense  of  keH.^ping  the  ani- 
mals so  many  months,  but  to  have  their 
fiesh  at  any  moment  fresh,  while  its 
icy  hardness  is  an  effectual  protection 
against  the  injuries  it  might  otherwise 
sustain  in  being  conveyed  from  one 
extremity  of  the  country  to  the  other. 
Early  in  the  winter  the  first  great  frozen 
market  is  held  in  all  the  large  cities, 
and  all  prudent  housekeepers  lay  in 
as  ample  a  supply  of  provisions  as  their 
means  will  enable  them.  Merchants 
with  i)rovisions  then  crowd  to  IMoseow 
auil  St.  Petersburg  from  all  quarters  of 
the  empire.  The  fish  of  the  AVhite  Sea 
and  of  the  great  northern  lakes  are 
piled  in  huge  heaps  in  the  streets,  side 
by  .side  with  the  frozen  oxen  from  the 
steppes  of  the  Crimea,  tlu;  sheep  from 
tiie  shores  of  the  Caspian,  and  the 
deer  from  the  banks  of  the  Knisei  aiul 
Ii-tish.  The  number  of  persons  cm- 
ployed  in  this  traffic  is  enormous,  ami 
the  entire  interruption  to  it,  caused 
by  the  occuiv.ition  of  IMoscow  by  the 
French  in  1812,  just  at  the  time  of 
the  great  market,  contributed  not  a 
little  to  increase  the  miseries  of  war. 

On  one  or  two  occasions  a  sudden 
break  of  the  frost,  after  a  week  or 
fortnight's  continuance,  when  immense 
quantities  of  frozen  provisions  have 
been  thawed  on  their  way  to  the 
markets,  has  caused  not  only  great  loss 
to  the  merchants,  but  serious  incon- 
venience to  the  inhabitants  of  the  large 
cities,  who,  relying  on  this  regular 
supply,  make  no  other  preparation  for 
their  wants. 

G.  Iversh'd"  Vorota,  Iberian  Gate  and 
Chapel,  dedicated  to  the  Iberian  Mother 
of  God. — This  is  the  principal  e'ntranco 
and  exit  into  the  Kitai  Gorod..  The 
chapel  contains  a  picture  of  the  Iberian 
Mother  of  God,  brought  from  IMount 
Athos  in  the  reign  of  Alexis,  and  con- 
sidered to  1)0  of  miraculous  efficacy.  It 
is  always  b.sct  by  \vor;3hippcrs,  whose 


donations  amount  to  about  10,0007.  per 
annum,  of  which  7000/.  is  contributed 
towards  the  pay  of  the  Metropolitan  of 
the  see  of  Moscow.  The  devotional 
habits  of  the  Russian  people  may  bo 
watched  here  with  interest. 

Having  viewed  the  Kremlin  and 
Kitai  Gorod,  the  traveller  should  drive 
to  see  the  places  below  enumerated. 


Detached  Sights. 

Foundling  Hnspitah — No  traveller 
should  omit  a  visit  to  this  institution, 
for  which  an  order  is  easily  procured. 
The  sight  of  this  huge  nursery  is  as 
curious  as  it  is  instructive,  and  will 
aftbrd  plenty  of  materials  for  refiection 
to  the  moralist,  or  the  student  of  social 
science.  It  was  opened  in  1703  by  tho 
Empress  Catherine  II.,  and  organized 
in  accordance  with  the  views  of  Betski, 
an  eminent  philanthropist  t»f  that  roigii, 
whose  jwrtrait  is  exhibited  in  a  galleiy, 
together  with  the  likenesses  of  succes- 
sive benefactors  too  numerous  to  men- 
tion. A  Lombard  bank  or  INIout  do 
Pie'te  now  in  liquidation,  and  a  Savings 
Bank  which  still  fiourishes,  have  hi- 
therto been  the  sources  of  revenue  of 
this  establishment,  but  the  facilities 
afforded  by  railways  of  bringing  in- 
fants to  a  common  centre  threaten 
seriously  to  make  inadequate  the  ways 
and  means  now  snpi)lied  by  the  Govern- 
ment since  the  concentration  of  all 
financial  institutions  in  the  State 
Bank.  The  yearly  grant  amounts  to 
about  ISO.OOOV. 

A  lying-in  hospital,  with  secret 
wards,  but  open  likewise  to  mothers 
who  are  only  ])oor,  occupies  one  of 
the  wings,  while  the  largest  and 
best  part  of  the  square  building  is 
devoted  to  an  institution  for  female 
orphans.  More  than  2000  women  have 
recourse;  annually  to  the  secret  wards, 
and  about  200  to  those  reserved  for 
ca^es  of  poverty.  Tho  Foundling 
hospital  admits  yearly  about  12.000 
children,  who  are  not  left,  as  in 
some  other  institutions  of  a  similar 
kind,  at  the  door  of  the  l)uilding,  but  are 
taken  openlv,  either  by  their  mothers 


Enssia.  Route  6. — Moscow  :  Foundling  Hospital. 


205 


or  some  friend,  into  an  entrance  room 
set  apart  for  the  purpose.  Here  the 
infant  is  at  once  received  without  anv 
further  question  being  asked  than, 
"Has  the  child  been  baptised?  '  and  if 
so,  ''By  what  name?'  The  child  is 
then  registered  in  the  books  of  the 
institution  ;  a  number  is  assigned  to  it, 
wliich  is  henceforward  worn  around  its 
neck,  and  figures  on  its  cot,  while  a 
receipt,  showing  the  same  number,  is 
lianded  to  the  bearer  of  the  child,  in 
order  to  enable  her  to  visit,  or  even 
claim  it  at  any  futun^  period  up  to  the 
age  of  10  years.  The  infant  is  then 
passed  into  another  room,  where,  after 
being  undressed  and  washed,  it  is 
swaddled  in  the  clothes  of  the  Hospital, 
and  handed  to  its  future  foster  parent, 
she  being  the  woman  who  hapi)ens  at 
the  moment  to  stand  at  the  head  of  the 
list  amongst  a  number  who  are  always 
waiting  in  attendance.  These  women, 
who  are  g(;nerally  peasants  from  the 
country,  have  frequently,  it  is  believed, 
themselves  been  the  def)Ositors  of  their 
own  children  at  the  liospital  a  few 
hours  previously,  but  probalily  tiie 
great  majority  are  mothers  who  have 
left  their  own  childern  in  the  country  to 
be  brought  up  by  hand,  being  attracted 
by  the  wages  of  6d.  and  sometimes  Sd. 
a  day  and  the  good  fare  provided  them 
in  the  institution. 

From  the  room  where  the  infants 
are  received,  the  visitor  will  doubtless 
pass  with  interest  from  one  ward  to 
another  of  this  vast  hospital,  where 
lie  will  not  fail  to  perceive  that  no- 
thing which  good  domestic  manage- 
ment can  suggest,  or  medical  art^ap- 
prove,  has  been  omitted.  The  whole 
establisliment  is  conducted  with  the 
regidarity  of  cloclcwork  under  the 
management  and  supervision  of  an  ex- 
perienced and  intelligent  medical  staff, 
while  the  smallest  and  most  trivial 
operation  is  i^rformed  with  the  utmost 
delicacy  of  which  the  female  hand  is 
cai)able.  The  simple  arts  of  washing 
and  dressing  arc  brought  to  a  perfection, 
and  executed  with  a  rapidity,  unknown 
elsewhere.  The  infants  are  bathed  in 
copper  tubs  of  the  most  convenient  form, 
liikHl  with  thick  fiannel,  and  they  are 
dressed  on  down  pillows,  instead  of  on 


the  bony  knees,  or  the  still  more  cruel 
hoops,  of  modern  nurses.  There  aro 
distinct  wards  for  every  illness  to  which 
the  children  are  liable,  with  the  newest 
and  most  approved  appliances  fitted  to 
each.  In  the  ward  for  eye  diseases, 
the  visitor  should  try  to  see  the  eye 
syringe  in  use.  The  utmost  attention 
is  bestowed  on  nifants  prematurely 
born,  whose  lifc  is  sustained  by  placing 
them  in  hollow  copper  bassinets,  the 
sides  and  bottom  of  which  are  filled 
with  hot  water. 

The  morning  after  their  admission, 
the  children,  if  not  already  baptized, 
are  admitted  within  the  pale  of  the  or- 
thodox Church,  receiving  the  Christian 
name  of  the  saint  who  may  happen  to 
preside  over  that  day  in  the  Russian 
calendar,  and,  for  a  surname,  the 
Christian  name  of  the  priest  who  ofli- 
ciates,  with  the  addition  of  the  "  off," 
so  familiar  in  Russian  patronymics. 
After  remaining  in  the  institution  for 
4  weeks,  and  having  been  vaccinated, 
the  infants,  if  strong  and  healthy,  are 
sent,  together  with  then  nurses,  to  tlK) 
villages  to  which  the  latter  belong. 
Here  the  nurses  receive  about  4s.  Qd. 
a  month  for  the  maintenance  of  their 
charges,  under  the  supervision  of  tho 
doctor  of  the  district.  The  coarse  fare 
of  the  peasantry,  however,  and  tho 
rigour  of  the  climate,  cause  about  50 
per  cent,  of  the  children  to  die  before 
the  age  of  one  year,  and  about  a  quarter 
only  of  those  brought  to  the  hospital 
arrive  at  maturity. 

It  may  be  argued  that  such  institu- 
tions tend  to  recognise  and  increase 
innnorality,  and  statistics  may  be  ad- 
duced to  show,  that,  while  the  number 
of  illegitunatc  births  in  the  whole  Rus- 
sian empire  is  little  over  4  per  cent., 
at  JNIoscow  and  St.  Petersburg,  where 
Foundling  Hospitals  exist,  the  projwr- 
ti(^u  is  in  the  former  town  371,  and  in 
the  latter  20|  per  cent.,  and  that  there 
are  about  10  per  cent,  more  of  illegiti- 
mate births  at  IMoscow  than  at  Paris. 
On  the  other  hand,  it  may  be  questioned 
whether  the  proportion  of  legitimate  or 
ilk'gitimate  registered  births  is  a  just 
criterion  of  momlity.  The  proportion 
of  the  latter  to  the  former  is  always 
greater  in  the  large  and  thickly  popu- 


20G 


Bonte  G. — Moscow  :  Museum. 


Sect.  T. 


lated  towns  thnn  in  the  country ;  and 
us  to  the  lehitivL'  proportion  between 
Moscow  and  Paris,  this  will  only  be 
really  known  when  the  science  of  sta- 
tistics! shall  have  learnt  to  give  the 
numbers  of  undiscovered  cases  of  in- 
fanticide and  other  hardly  les^s  infa- 
mous crimes.  Moreover,  a  gnat  pro- 
lX)rtion  of  the  children  brought  to  the 
institution  are  not  illegitimate;  and  are 
only  left  there  by  the  parents  from 
poverty  or  if  in  service. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  increase  of 
]iopulation  elfected  by  the  Foundling 
Hospitals  of  INIoscow  and  St.  IVters- 
burg  is  not  so  great  as  might  at  first 
Bight  be  supposed  ;  for  indeiundent  of 
tiie  great  mortality  among  the  eliildren 
after  tliey  have  left  the  institution — 
mortality  owing,  in  a  great  degree,  to 
the  severe  climate,  and  to  the  universal 
custom  among  the  llussian  peasantry 
of  leaving  young  infants  alone  for 
several  hours  at  a  time,  with  the 
"  Soska,"  or  kind  of  milk  poultice,  at 
their  mouths,  to  nourish  or  to  choke 
them, — it  must  not  be  forgotten  that 
but  too  manv  of  these  ille*j;itimate  chil- 
dren  are  saved  at  tiie  expen.se  of  the 
lawful  otl'spring  of  their  nurses,  left  at 
a  critical  age  to  be  brought  up  by 
hand  in  the  villages. 

The  boys  when  they  grow  up  are  not 
amenable  to  military  service,  and  are 
even  exempt  from  certain  taxes.  Tlie 
great  mass  of  them  become  agricultural 
laboiuers.  About  150  are  ainiually 
brought  up  at  the  Industrial  School  at 
Moscow,  where  they  are  taught  various 
trades,  and  "l^yO  at  the  School  of  Sur- 
gery as  hospitiil  dressers.  Some  of  the 
girls  arc  taken  baek  to  the  hosj)ital, 
where  they  are  trained  as  nurses,  and 
even  as  midwives,  i'or  which  a  special 
school  is  attached.  In  case  a  girl 
marries  in  her  village  before  attaining 
her  majority,  she  is  provided  by  the 
institution  with  a  trousseau. 

The  Nicholas  Institute,  wliich  will 
be  shown  the  visitor,  is  only  for  the 
female  orphans  of  indigent  servants  of 
the  crown;  another  for  boys  existing 
elsewhere.  About  800  girls  receive 
here  a  libenil  education,  intended  to 
prepare  them  for  tuition.  On  leaving 
the  establishment   they   are  provided 


with  an  outfit,  and  enjoy  small  salaries, 
j)roportionate  to  the  certiticates  which 
they  have  gained  on  their  examination 
— salaries  which  they  receive  during 
the  0  years  which  they  are  bound  to 
devote  to  the  Crown  as  govenies.ses 
and  school  teachers  in  the  interior  of 
the  empire. 

Although  this  school  is  attached  to 
the  Foundling  Hospital,  no  foundlings 
are  admitted.  oO  girls  are  brought  up 
in  it  at  their  own  exj)ense. 

The  register  of  the  Foundling  Hosjti- 
tal  is  an  object  of  interest  to  those  who 
understand  the  Kussiun  language.  It 
contains  an  entry  in  1812  of  '2  loys 
sent  there  by  onhr  of  the  Kmperor 
Napoleon.  Admission  on  ai)i>licalion 
to  the  governor.  The  porter  will  ex- 
pect a  fee. 


Puhlic  Mnscmn  (ruhh'rhny  Mityc'e, 
<lom]\i.<h1:(tra). — Thel{umiaut>olf  INlu- 
seum,  bequeathed  to  the  juiblic  in  lMi8 
l)y  Count  Kumiantsoti",  Chancellor  of 
the  Kmi)ire,  was  removed  in  18G1  from 
St.  Petersburg  to  INIoscow,  where  it 
now  forms  the  nucleus  of  a  collection 
that  aspires  to  rival  that  of  the  liritish 
ISIuseum.  It  occupies  a  si)lendid  man- 
sion, once  the  residence  of  the  Pash- 
kof  family,  and  which,  from  its  impos- 
ing site,  stands  out  i)iominently  froui 
amidst  the  other  colosi^al  and  j)ic- 
turesque  buildings  of  Moscow.  The 
original  liumiantsoif  ^Museum  has  been 
considemljly  augmented  by  donations 
antl  by  other  ctdlections,  .such  as  that 
of  Christian  antiquities  and  early  (ireek 
and  Slavonic  MSS.,  lent  by 'Mr.  P. 
Sevastianof,  a  i)atriotic  iirdia'ologist. 

The  Libra  11/,  increased  by  inqxrial 

gifts  and  by  purchases,  now  i)ossesses 

l(;o,000    volumes.      It   is  particularly 

rich  in  ancient  Slavonic  INISS.,  which 

are  arranged  chronologically  in  glass 

cases;  45  of  them  are  on  parchment. 

One   of  the   most   ancient   Slavonian 

MSS.  of  the  Gos«pels,  written  in  11G4, 

'  is  to  be  found  liere.    No  less  than  Ihn  e 

i  MSS.  on   parchment  or  iiajK-r  belong 

:  to  the  12th  century,  ten  to  the  l^th, 

'  twenty  to  the  14th',  and  forty-three  to 

'  the  loth.     There  are  also  very  many 

'  well-executed  cojiies  of  ancient  INISS., 


Russia. 


Boute  6. — Moscow  :  Museum, 


207 


and  42  copies  of  the  Evangelists,  rang- 
ing between  the  Pith  and  IGth  cen- 
turies. The  library  is  rich  in  historical 
and  ecclesiastical  MSS.  and  in  speci- 
mens of  early  printing  in  the  Russian 
characters.  The  room  in  which  the 
bust  of  Nicholas  I.  is  ])laced  contains 
the  library  of  his  consort  in  hand- 
somely bound  volumes.  The  private 
pajiers  and  correspondence  of  the  great 
Chancellor  are  deposited  here.  Count 
Ilumiantsot^'took  great  pains  in  collect- 
ing works,  originals  as  well  as  copies, 
having  reference  to  the  relations  be- 
tween Russia  and  other  countries.  A 
volumii  entitled  'Co^jies  of  Letters 
written  and  received  by  Sir  Charles 
Comwaleys,  Knight,  <luring  his  Em- 
bassie  in  Spain,  with  other  his  Obser- 
vations and  Negociations,  IGOG,'  may 
interest  the  English  traveller.  The 
library  is  enriched  by  the  valuable  col- 
lection of  31  r.  Norof,  whose  Aldine  and 
Elziverian  editions  are  worthy  of  in- 
spection, as  well  as  the  works  of  Gior- 
dano Prune,  and  the  •Atlantica'  by 
Kudbeck,  the  most  complete  coi)y  next 
to  those  of  Upsala  and  Stockholm.  In 
the  centre  room  of  this  library  is  a 
marble  allegorical  statue  of  Peace,  by 
Canova,  oii  a  pedestal  of  granite,  in 
commemoration  of  the  Peace  of  Abo 
(1743),  of  that  of  Kainardji  (1774),  and 
of  Frederichshamm  (180li).  On  each 
side  of  this  statue  are  placed  two 
splendid  vases,  from  the  imiK'rial 
manufactory,  presented  by  the  Em- 
])eror.  Their  value  is  12,000  roubles. 
There  are  also  a  .statue  and  a  bust  in 
marble  of  Count  Puiniantsoft' Zadunai- 
ski.  None  of  these  are  of  any  extraor- 
dinary merit.  The  portrait  of  Chan- 
cellor Kumiantsolf,  the  founder  of  the 
museum,  is  by  Geo.  Dawe. 

The  scnli)tiue  gallery  has  been  sup- 
jdied  with  slabs  from  the  Egyptian 
and  Assyrian  Courts  of  the  British  Mu- 
seum, and  contains  nothing  original. 

A  room  is  devoted  in  this  museum 
to  a  collection  of  Masonic  MSS.  and 
books.  It  contixins  the  Archives  of  the 
Lodges  in  Russia,  between  the  years 
181 G  and  1821,  although  many  manu- 
scripts are  of  an  earlier  date,  Russia 
having  been  declared  an  independent 
Masonic  Province  in  1781.    Freema- 


sonry was  formally  abolished  in  1823, 
but  it  nevertheless  continued  to  exist 
surreptitiously  some  time  longer,  as 
proved  by  some  of  the  documents  pre- 
served here,  bearing  the  date  of  1830. 

In  a  corridor  will  be  found  masonic 
decorations,  &c.  To  the  right  of  the 
corridor  is  a  numismatic  collection. 
Tiie  next  door  leads  to  the  Dashkof 
Ethnographical  Museum.  Proceeding 
along  the  corridor,  the  visitor  will  find 
on  the  rt.  a  room  in  which  the  various 
objects  collected  by  Kotzebue  during 
his  voyage  round  the  world  have  been 
deposited.  Continuing  along  the  cor- 
ridor a  large  hall  will  be  reached, 
where  figures  the  size  of  life  are  placed 
to  represent  the  various  races  inhabit- 
ing Russia.  In  the  centre  are  speci- 
mens of  the  "Great  Russian"  race, 
next  come  the  Little  Russians,  and, 
lastly,  the  Caucasian  tribes.  In  the 
next  room  are  tents  of  the  Kalmucks 
and  Kirghizes.  To  the  it.,  below,  are 
the  domestic  uteii.sils,  &c.,  of  the  vari- 
ous races.  A  staircase  leads  to  a  hall 
in  which  are  arranged  figures  of  the 
Slavonian  races  not  subject  to  Russia, 
while  in  tlu;  gallery  above  are  excel- 
lent photographs  of  all  the  Slavonian 
races.  These  figures  or  dolls  formed 
the  "Ethnographical  Exhibition,"  held 
at  Moscow  in  1807,  which  has  since 
given  rise  to  so  much  apprehension  iii 
Austria. 


An  Ex1ii1)iiion  of  Christian  Anti- 
quities occupies  four  rooms  in  the 
upper  flof)r  of  the  museum.  It  consists 
principally  of  specimens  of  ecclesi- 
astical art  Ijrought  from  Mount  Athos, 
and  of  casts  and  ])hotographs  of  Byzan- 
tine and  early  Russian  archa}ological 
objects.  An  image  in  mosaic  of  the 
Saviour,  attributed  to  the  10th  or  11th 
century,  a  gold  cross  of  Byzantine 
enamel  of  the  same  period,  and  several 
manuscripts  and  specimens  of  early 
printing,  are  among  the  antiquities  of 
which  INIr.  Sevastianotf,  the  owner  of 
the  collection,  is  chiefly  proud. 

The  jNIineralogical  collection  is  not 
very  remarkable,  although  a  few  speci- 
mens are  worthy  of  note.  Among 
these  are  a  mass  of  native  copper  from 
the  Boguslaf  mines  in  Siberia,  and  vari- 


20<S 


Boute  G. — Moscow:  Museum. 


Sect.  I. 


Kussia. 


Boute  G. — Moscow :  Biding  Scliool, 


209 


ous  crystallized  and  other  specimens 
of  the  same  metal.  A  hu^c  crystal  of 
smoky  quartz  from  Ekaterinburg,  may 
also  be  noticed.  Attention  may  be 
drawn  to  a  line  l)eryl  nnd  some  ji^ood 
specimens  of  tlie  rare  chromate  of  lead 
from  Siberia,  to  tlie  axinite  from  Dau- 
phine,  and  to  a  fine  specimen  of  crys- 
tallized native  sulphur  from  the  extinct 
locality  of  Conil  in  Spain. 

In  the  Zoological  I)ei)artmcnt  will 
be  seen  a  small  specimen  of  the  mam- 
motli,  and  numerous  skulls  of  tliat 
animal.  In  a  glass  case  near  the 
window  are  pieces  of  the  integuments, 
masses  of  hair,  and  a  whitish  substance 
taken  out  of  the  socket  of  the  eye  of 
tlie  hug(^  beast,  when  found  in  Siberia. 

The  riff itre  G ( (11  frij  owcfi  its  origin 
to  the  gift,  by  the  j)rcsent  Kmperor,  of 
a  large  picture  by  Ivanotf,  "Christ  ap- 
pearing to  the  People."  Professor 
Waagen  selected  a  few  pictur(;s  for  this 
museum  characteristic  of  the  several 
schools  of  painting  from  amongst  the 
collection  in  the  Hermitage,  the  value 
of  which  splendid  gjdlery  has  not  been 
materially  diminis;hed  by  the  alh-stmc- 
tion.  Ivanoft's  picture,  placed  in  the 
last  room,  is  very  striking  on  account 
of  the  relief  of  some  of  the  figures, 
especially  that  of  the  young  man  climb- 
ing OTit  of  the  water;  and  the  head  of 
the  decrepit  old  man  supported  by  a 
youth,  who  is  probably  his  son,  i"S  cer- 
tainly admirable  for  expression.  The 
picture  is  ])ainted  in  exaggiTated  cold 
tones,  but  the  drawing  shows  evidence 
of  most  careful  study.  There  is  a 
considerable  sameness  in  the  faces,  a 
monotony  probal)ly  produced  by  em- 
ploying the  same  model,  and  altogether 
the  picture  has  certainly  not  the  attrac- 
tions of  the  more  celebrated  work  of 
this  native  artist,  that  of  "  Christ  ap- 
pearing to  Mary  Magdalen,"  exhibited 
in  the  Hermitage.  Close  to  it  is  a 
small  picture  (No.  201),  "the  Death 
of  Pelopidas,"  by  Antlrew  Ivanoff, 
father  of  the  fibove  paintf-r. 

Travellers  may  study  the  rise  and  pi"o- 
gress  of  Russian  painting  in  the  gallery 
of  Senator  Prianitchikolf,  removed  to 
the  museum  in  18G7.  It  contains  122 
pictures,  of  which  12  are  by  Briilow. 

The  Fleuiish  school  is  represented 


by  originals  of  Breughel  (No.  G), 
liubens  (Nos.  13  and  15,  the  latter 
being  rather  doubtful),  Jordaens  (No. 
22,  "  Paul  and  Barnabas  at  Lystra  "), 
Van  Dyck  (No.  ;j2,  portrait  of  Lady 
AVharton),  Teniers  (No.  40,  "The 
Temptation  of  St.  Antony").  There 
is  also  a  Rembrandt  (No,  75,  "  Decapi- 
tation of  John  the  Baptist ")  ;  but  tlio 
Italian  artists  only  appear  in  copies 
more  or  less  cotemporaneous.  No.  CO 
is  a  rather  curious  picture  by  Joseph 
Platzer  of  the  parable  of  "  The  man 
without  tiite  wedding  garment."  There 
is  also  a  fine  figure  of  a  monk,  in  the 
first  room,  by  Ijudwig  Knaus,  tho 
Dusseldorf  artist.  Recently  added  : 
•'  Penitence,"  by  Overbeck ;  antl  the 
••  Angels  smiting  the  inhabitants  of 
Sodom  with  blindness,"  by  Wenig  of 
St.  Petersburg—  striking  pictures.  We 
may  also  mention  ''  Prince  IMenschi- 
koll'  in  exile,"  by  Ford,  and  "The 
death  of  Josaphat  Kunsewicz,"  re- 
cently canonized ;  painted  by  Simmler, 
1801. 

The  English  portrait-painter.s  arc 
represented  by  George  Da  we  in  a  fnll- 
length  likeness  of  Prince  Madatof;  tho 
same  artist  iiainted  the  j)ortrait  of 
Count  Rumiantsoff,  exhibited  in  one  of 
the  halls  of  the  museum.  The  portrait 
of  General  Isakotf,  foundir  of  tho 
museum,  painted  by  Dawe,  will  like- 
wise be  seen  in  one  of  the  rooms, 
together  with  a  beautiful  vase  with 
medallions  of  the  year  1812. 

There  is  also  a  collection  of  En- 
gravings and  Photographs,  most  of 
them  being  duplicates  from  tho  Her- 
mitage. The  Arundel  Society  has 
contributed  many  of  its  publications. 

A(hnission  gratis  on  Tuesdays,  Thurs- 
days, Saturdays,  and  Sundays. 


GaJltshi  Museum. — Prechistinka-str. 
Open  INIondays,  Wednesdays,  and 
Fridays,  12  to  3.  Foreigners  will 
obtain  permission  to  inspect  it  at  any 
other  lime,  on  ai)plication  to  tho 
Director,  who  lives  on  the  premises. 

This  museum  was  formed  by  I'rincc 
Michael  Galitsin,  sonu^time  Russian 
minister  at  INIadrid,  and  who  died  18G0. 


It  consists  of  a  library,  picture  gallery, 
and  a  collection  of  curiosities. 

The  most  remarkable  books  in  the 
library  arc  two  xylographic  volumes, 
entitled,  'The  Sufl:erings  of  our  Sa- 
viour,' and  'Ars  Moriendi,'  produced 
shortly  before  the  invention  of  printing. 
Next  to  these  is  a  second  book,  printed 
soon  after  the  introduction  of  piiut- 
iug  with  moveable  type:— '  Gulielmi 
Durandi  Rationale  divinorum  otlicio- 
rum,  1451),'  and  'Cicero  de  Olhciis, 
14G5.'  The  first  is  edltio  princeps. 
According  to  the  opinion  of  Brunet 
one  of  the  books  in  this  library,  viz. 
the  '  Tractatus  de  Sumpcione,'  &c., 
was  printed  by  Gutenberg  himself. 
The  visitor  will  also  see  here  the  first 
printed  papal  bull,  and  other  curiosities 
of  typographical  art,  as  well  as  a  fine 
collection  of  Aldine  and  Elziverian 
editions. 

In  the  picture  (jallenj  the  most  re- 
markable painting  is  by  Perugino 
(No.  1),  representing  our  Saviour  on 
the  Cross  surrounded  by  saints.  The 
other  valuable  pictures  are:  No.  10, 
by  Carlo  Dolce,  "  Tobit  and  the 
Angels;"  No.  21,  by  Cima  di  Cone- 
gliano ;  No.  33,  by  Francesco  Francia 
and  others,  representing  the  Italian 
school.  The  remarkable  pictures  be- 
longing to  the  Dutch  and  Flemish 
schools  are :  Van  der  Veyder  (No.  45y ; 
Van  der  IMeylen  (No.  58) ;  Caspar 
Netcher,  Metun,  &c.  Three  pictures 
of  the  French  school  from  the  Orleans 
gallery  are  very  fine  specimens.  There 
are  also  many  original  paintings  of 
other  schools,  the  total  number  being 
above  200,  among  which  are  very  few 
copies.  The  whole  of  this  almost 
entirely  original  collection  was  made 
by  the  Princes  Galitsin. 

Tiu5  collection  of  curiosities  is  well 
known  to  connoisseurs  of  all  countries. 
There  is  a  small  earthenware  jug 
(biberna)  (No.  49G)  of  Henri  II., 
which  is  valued  by  amateurs  at  1000/. 
Only  37  articles  of  this  ware  are  to 
be  found  in  the  whole  of  Europe,  a 
few  bi'ing  in  England.  The  other  in- 
teresting objects  are  :  o  chess-board  of 
the  latter  part  of  the  IGth  century. 
Vases,  once  the  property  of  Louis 
XVI.  and  Marie  Antoinette;  a  large 


collection  of  cameos,  antiquities  from 
Pompeii,  articles  of  Etruscan  bronze ; 
an  old  steel  lock  and  key  in  tho 
shape  of  a  temple,  made  in  1617;  a 
group  of  figures  made  cf  pearls  and 
gold  enamelled,  representing  a  Moor 
mounted  on  a  camel;  vases  of  old 
Chinese  porcelain  (Nos.  215,  502,  597) ; 
plates  that  belonged  to  the  Medici 
(No.  498) ;  a  drinking  cup  with  a  like- 
ness of  Gustavus  Adolphus  on  the  lid, 
and  the  story  of  Sustmnah  round  the 
body  of  the  cup. 


Other  Museums  and  Collections. — Be- 
sides the  Galitsin  Museum  the  follow- 
ing private  collections  are  worth  seeing. 
SoJilattnlioff's  in  Miasuitsky  -  street ; 
Botlcins,  in  I'okrovka-street ;  Zenckers 
on  Stretensk  boulevard.  These  may 
all  be  seen  by  permission  of  the  pro- 
prietors. 

Chertlcoff'ii  Lihrdri/,  in  INIiasnitsky- 
street,  is  now  open  to  the  public,  and 
may  he  visited  at  any  time.  It  con- 
tains a  collection  of  all  tho  books 
written  in  foreign  languages  on  Rus- 
sia. 


llie  (rreat  Biding  Scliool  (Manege). — 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  buildings 
in  jNIoscow  is  the  celebrated  Riding 
School,  supjiosed  to  l^e  the  largest 
room  in  the  world  unsuj^ported  by 
pillar  or  jn'op  of  any  kind.  Writers 
difier  as  to  its  dimensions,  but  we 
believe  we  arc  nearly  accurate  when 
we  place  its  length  at  5G0  ft.,  breadth 
158  ft.,  and  height  42,  The  great 
town-hall  of  Padua  is  only  240  ft. 
long  and  80  ft.  broad;  Westminster 
Hall  is  275  ft.  by  75;  and  King's 
College,  Cambridge,  291  ft.  by  45| ; 
but  that  is  an  area  small  indeed  in 
comparison,  though  great  is  the  differ- 
ence between  the  two  roofs.  The 
ceiling  of  the  Riding  School  is  flat, 
and  the  exterior  of  the-  roof  very 
sliglitly  elevated.  The  interior  is 
adorned  with  numerous  bas-reliefs  of 
men  in  armour  and  ancient  tropliies ; 
and    the    stoves,    which    cannot    be 


210 


Houte  G. — Moscow :  University. 


Sect.  I. 


fewer  tlian  20,  made  of  white  sliin- 
in<;j  earthenware,  and  rising  to  the 
ceiling,  have  a  very  good  eti'cct.  Tliere 
are  small  windows  at  a  considerable 
height  from  the  ground,  but  owing  to 
its  enormous  width  the  interior  of  the 
building  looks,  even  when  the  sun 
shines,  dull  and  sombre.  Here,  in  the 
most  intense  cohl,  when  even  the  Rus- 
sian soldier  can  scarce  stand  in  his 
sentry-box,  the  trooj)S  can  jx;rform 
their  exercises  imobstructed  by  the 
severitv  of  the  weather;  and  the  vast 
enclosure  gives  ample  room  for  two 
regiments  of  cavalry  to  go  through 
all  their  various  evolutions  and  man- 
oeuvres. 

The  traveller  will  naturally  be 
anxious  to  examine  the  peculiar  struc- 
ture of  the  roof,  and  ascertain  by  what 
unseen  sui)j)ort  its  massive  beams  are 
sustained ;  and  he  was  formerly  allowed 
to  do  so  by  ascending  the  winding 
stairs  in  the  corner  of  the  Riding 
School,  when  he  soon  found  himself 
amidst  a  forest  of  beams,  stays,  and 
rafters,  of  all  forms  and  dimensions ; 
but  a  special  order  for  viewing  it  is 
now  required. 


TJie  University. — The  University  of 
I\Ioscow,  the  oldest  in  Russia  Proper, 
was  founded  by  the  Empress  Eliza- 
beth, daughter  of  Peter  the  Great, 
lu  1755,  and  has  ever  since  been  a 
favourite  national  seat  of  learning.  It 
has  prmluced  several  statesmen,  many 
officers  of  distinction,  and  men  of 
letters,  the  most  celebrated  of  wlic»m  is 
the  poet  Jukowsky.  The  statutes  of 
all  tiie  Universities  in  Russia  were  re- 
modelled in  ISO;),  after  some  riotous 
procealings  on  the  part  of  the  students 
at  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow,  who 
objected  to  the  raising  of  the  matricu- 
lation fees.  The  University  of  INIoscow 
is  composed  of  four  faculties, — History, 
Physics,  Jurisprudence,  and  Medicine, 
— and  is  a  State  institution,  under  the 
autliority  of  the  Minister  of  Public 
Instruction.  There  is  also  a  chair  for 
theology  at  each  University  for  students 
of  the  Russo-Greek  faith,  and  special 
lectures  for  the  German,  French, 
English,  and  Italian  languages. 


There  are  75  professors  and  lecturers 
attached  to  this  University,  which  is 
frequented  by  IGOO  students.  Tho 
annual  payment  by  students  is  only  50 
rubles  [71.  10«.).  A  few  are  admitted 
to  the  \Gctmes  i))  farmd  pauperis,  und 
a  considerable  number  as  stipendiaries 
of  charities.  Government  schools,  &c. 
The  State  contributes  about  02.000^ 
annually  towards  the  expense  of  this 
University,  the  total  expenditure  Ix'ing 
about  G8,000?.  The  seveml  academical 
degrees  confer  a  corresix)nding  rank  or 
tchin  in  the  civil  service.  The  Uni- 
versities are  open  to  all  youths  al>uvo 
17  years  of  age  who  shall  have  passed 
a  satisfactory  examination  in  one  of 
the  gynmasia  or  some  other  scholastic 
institution  under  the  supervision  of  the 
Minister  of  Public  Instruction,  as  well 
as  to  those  who  shall  have  undergone 
a  certified  course  of  tuition  at  home. 

The  terms  of  admission  being  thus 
easy,  a  university  education  in  Russia 
is  no  aristocratic  distinction. 

The  lAhrary  contains  100,000  vol- 
umes, and  is  more  especially  rich  in 
historical  works.  The  scientitic  col- 
lections are  considerable  in  size  and  of 
a  practical  character.  The  anatomical 
cabinet  of  Loder,  and  the  microscopic 
preparations  of  Lieberkuhn,  are  worthy 
of  notice.  There  are  also  some  extraor- 
dinary specimens  of  human  malforma- 
tions kept  in  spirits  of  wine,  a  very 
good  collection  of  skeletons,  and  many 
curiosities  in  the  way  of  foreign  sub- 
stances extracted  from  the  stomachs  of 
animals.  A  camel's  stomach,  extended 
to  its  natural  extent,  with  all  its  cells 
and  subdivisions  so  arranged  as  to 
render  visible  every  corner  in  which 
the  fooel  was  retained  till  perfectly 
dissolved,  and  an  instrument  used  by 
I*eter  the  Great  in  drawing  teeth,  are 
likewise  exhibiteel. 

The  Zoological  Cabinet  contains 
73.G38  si)ecimens. 

The  University  has  a  good  working 
mineral  collection,  not  very  remarkabUj 
for  its  individual  specimens.  (10,8(!0 
in  number). 

An  hospital  is  attached  to  the  Uni- 
versity, with  lying-in  wards ;  also  the 
Hospital  of  St.*  Catherine,  where  1400 
patients  are  annually  admitted. 


Russia. 


Moute  G. — Moscow  :  Suhareff  Tower, 


211 


Sulmreff  Tower. —  This  conspicuous 
and  elegant  object  marks  the  old  N.E. 
boundary  of  the  city.     A  regiment  of 
Streltsi,  under  the  commanel  of  Col. 
Suhareff,  guarded  this  part  of  the  town, 
and  kept   a  gate   wJiieh   then    stood 
tliere.      When    the    Streltsi    revolted 
in  1(582,  SuliarefTs  regiment  escorted 
Peter  and  his  mother  and  brother  to 
the  Troitsjx  Monastery.     Between  the 
years  1G92  and  1G95  Peter  the  Great 
caused    the   old   gate  of   his   faithful 
regiment  to  be  replaced  by  the  present 
building.     In  his  enthusiasm  for  naval 
matters,  the  great  founder  of  the  Rus- 
sian navy  caused  the  tower  to  be  built 
in   the   shape  of  a  vessel,  the  tower 
representing  the   mast,   and   the  gal- 
leries all   round  pretending  to   a  re- 
semblance with  the  quarter-deck  of  an 
ancient   flag-ship,   while   the    eastern 
and  western  extremities  were  to  typify 
the  bow  and  stern.     Peter  the  Great 
is  sniiix)sed  to  have  held  secret  councils 
of  State  in  a  chamber  of  this  tower; 
and  tradition  says  it  was  the  place  of 
meeting  of  a  kind  of  Masonic  lodge, 
styled,  "Neptune's  Company,"  of  which 
Peter  I.  was  the  head.     The  peojjlc 
believed  that  their  great  Tsar  and  his 
companions  practise'd  the  "black  arts" 
within  the   Suhareff.     Comedies  were 
performe<l  there  in  1771   by  the  first 
troop  of  foreign  actors  that  ever  came 
to   Russia.      The   boys    of    a    Naval 
School,  instituted  in  this  tower,  were 
taught  to  perform  on  the  stage,  and 
were  at  one  time  sent  to  St.  Petersburg 
to  drive  piles  into  the  marslies  on  the 
banks  of  the  jNIoika.     On  the  protest, 
however,  of  A  dm.  Apraxin,  they  were 
relieved  of  that  duty,  and  sent  to  study 
in  foreign  parts.     After  having  been 
ap|3roi)iiated    by    Peter    to    a    Naval 
School,  under  the  direction  of  a  Scotclj- 
man  of  the  name  of  Fergusson,  and 
later  to  one  of  the  civil  departments  of 
the    Admiralty,   the    Suhareff  Tower 
has  been  usexi  since  1820  as  a  reservoir 
for   supplying   the   whole  of  Moscow 
with  water  l)rought  in  tubes  from  a 
distance  of  10  miles.    The  tower  is  210 
feet  in  height  to  the  top  of  the  vane. 
Its  style  is  a  mixture  of  the  Lombard 
and  Gothic. 


Temple  of  the  Saviour.— T\i\&  impos- 
ing structure,  seen  from  every  part  of 
the  city,  was  commenced  in  1812,  and 
is  still  in  an  unfinished  state.  It  is  to 
commemorate  the  French  invasion,  and 
when  completed  will  certainly  be  a 
worthy  rival  of  St.  Isaac's.  The  stone- 
work of  the  interior,  even  in  its  pre- 
.sent  state,  is  well  worth  seeing.  A 
considerable  part  of  it  is  in  "  Labrador  " 
stone  of  very  high  polish.  The  fine 
haut-relief  figures  witli  which  the  ex- 
terior of  the  cliapel  is  adorned  were 
commenced  by  Profes.sor  Luganofsky, 
since  dead,  and  continued  by  Baron 
Klodt  and  Professor  Ramazanoff,  like- 
wise native  sculptors.  In  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Moscow  are  very  extensive 
quarries  of  the  sandstone  of  which  the 
ch.  is  built. 


DUIVES  AND  EXCTRSIONS. 

1.  The  sparrow  IliUs  and  the  Em- 
press's T7//a.— Amongst  the  various 
drives  which  every  stranger  takes  in 
tlie  environs  of  Moscow,  that  to  the 
Sparrow  Hills  is  one  of  the  most  inte- 
resting, both  as  aftbrding  a  fine  view 
of  the  city,  and  as  being  the  groiind 
where  Napoleon  obtained  his  first 
glance  of  it. 

To  the  rt.  of  the  Sparrow  Hills  is 
the  Smolensk  road,  by  which  the 
French  entered  Mo^cow. 

The  gardens  belonging  to  the  Ga- 
litsin  family  are  prettily  situated  on 
the  sloi)iug  banks  of  the  IMoskva, 
which  fiows  in  gentle  windings  be- 
neath them.  Near  here  is  the  villa  of 
tiu>  late  Empress,  formerly  the  proix?rty 
of  Count  Orloff,  and  presented  by  him 
to  her  Imperial  Majesty.  This  villa,  a 
much  more  appropriate  term  for  it  than 
palace,  which  it  is  sometimes  called,  is 
very  handsomely  furnished,  and  com- 
fort, in  the  English  sense  of  the  word, 
is  quite  realised ;  the  Empress's  bed- 
room and  boudoir  are  })articul{U'ly 
worthy  of  attention  ;  the  walls  are  not 
jiapered,  but  hung  with  white  muslin 
lined  with  pink,  and  fluted  with  as 
much  care  as  a  goffered  collar.    Tho 


212 


Boute  G. — Moscow :  Simonoff  Monastery. 


Sect.  I. 


view  from  the  balcony  at  tlie  back  of 
the  vilki,  lookintj:  towards  the  river,  is 
very  pretty.  The  gardens  and  shrub- 
beries are  exceedingly  well  laid  out, 
and  the  collection  of  liot-house  plants 
very  choice. 

A  ticket  of  admission  is  required  to 
see  this  villa,  wliich  must  be  procured 
from  the  olhce  of  the  palace.  It  should 
be  visited  rather  early  in  the  afternoon, 
so  as  to  give  the traviller  time  to  have 
a  good  view  from  the  Sparrow  Hills, 
the  proper  hour  for  which  is  towards 
sunset.  The  Krendin  faces  these 
hills,  and  as  the  tmvcller  gazes  on 
it  he  will  picture  to  himself  what 
must  have  been  the  feelings  of  the 
Fn.-neh  army  when  they  caught  the 
iirst  view  of  the  golden  minarets 
and  starry  domes.  After  traversing 
the  dreary  plains  of  Lithuania,  and 
tighting,  with  fearful  loss,  their  way 
up  to  tliis  spot,  the  limit  of  their  long 
career,  no  wonder  that  those  weary 
legions,  unable  to  suppress  their  joy, 
shouted  with  one  voice,  "  Moscow." 


2.  Simonoff  Mounter  II. — Standing  on 
the  liigliest  ground  near  IMo.scow,  the 
tall  belfry  of  the  Simonoii*  affords  a 
iiner  and  fuller  view  of  the  city  than 
even  the  tower  of  Ivan  Veliki  or  the 
Sparrow  Hills.  It  is  at  least  one  liour's 
drive  from  the  centre  of  jNIoscow,  but 
should  be  visited  at  any  sacrifice. 

The  Slmmiotf  Monastery,  founded  in 
1370  by  St.  Sergius,  Was  removed  tf) 
its  i)resent  sitc^  alx)ut,  tlie  year  KJDO.  It 
was  anciently  the  most  important  mo- 
nastery in  liUssia,  and  as  such  was 
enriched  by  princely  and  private  gifts 
of  immense  value.  A  great  number  of 
villages  once  bi'longed  to  it,  and,  until 
1704,  as  many  as  12.000  male  serfs.  In 
1012,  notwithstanding  the  resistance 
offered  by  the  stout  defenders  of  its 
castellated  walls,  the  Sinionofl*  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Lithuanians  and  Poles, 
"who  sackeil  it.  During  the  plague 
of  1771  it  was  made  a  Quarantine  sta- 
tion, and  in  1788  it  was  suppressed  as 
a  monasteiy,  and  converted  into  a  mili- 
tary hospital.  In  171'."),  however,  the 
Simonofl'  was  restored  to  its  original 


dedication,  its  prosperity  behig  only 
once  more  cheeked,  in  1812,  when 
several  of  the  buildings  were  burned 
down.  Then;  are  G  churches  within 
th«!  walls.  The  most  ancient  is  the 
Cathedral  of  the  Assinnption,  a  mas- 
sive building  in  the  Byzantine  style, 
founded  about  the  year  1871),  and  con- 
secrated 140").  An  image  in  the  ikon- 
osttis  or  altar-screen  is  jx^inted  out  as 
having  been  that  with  which  St.  Ser- 
gius blessed  Dimitry  of  the  Don  when 
he  set  out  to  fight  the  Tartars.  The 
cupola  was  gilt  in  1830.  The  wall, 
2700  ft.  in  length,  was  built  in  the 
earlier  part  of  the  10th  centy.  The 
towers  are  8;")  to  120  ft.  in  height. 
Tiiere  is  a  subterranean  passage  from 
one  of  these  to  tlu?  pond  in  the  vicinity, 
much  frequented  by  the  believing  sick. 
There  are  many  costly  vestments  to 
be  seen  in  the  Sacristy,  as  well  as  a 
gold  cross,  studded  with  precious 
stones;  the  Gospels  in  a  binding  of 
gold  and  jewels,  presented  in  1083  by 
Maiy,  the  daughter  of  Alexis;  gold 
vesst'ls  weighing  3  lbs.  ;  and  many 
other  ecclesiastical  treasures.  St.  Jonah, 
subsequently  Metropolitan  of  all  Rus- 
sia, lived  here  as  a  monk  in  the  loth 
centy. 

But  the  great  attraction  of  this  mo- 
nastery is  the  l>elfry,  330  ft.  high, 
erected  between  183D  and  1844,  at  the 
expense  of  a  merchant  of  IMoscow,  who 
gave  the  sum  of  400,000  rubles  (banco), 
in  houses  and  shops,  towards  its  con- 
struction. 

Under  the  guidance  of  the  bell- 
ringer,  the  traveller  w  ill  ascend  to  the 
very  cupola,  and  look  out  of  a  small 
window,  which  his  guide  will  o|M?n. 
Unfortunately  the  bell-ringer  explains 
the  magnificent  panorama  in  IJussian, 
l>ut  he  can  point  out  any  locality  that 
may  be  mentioned. 

The  nearest  white  walls  are  those  of 
the  Danilof  Monastery,  founded  in 
1272  bv  the  canonized  Prince  Daniel 
of  Moscow,  l)ut  rebuilt  in  the  reign  of 
John  the  Terrible.  There  is  nothing 
to  see  in  it  except  the  silver  shrhie  of 
the  founder. 

Beyond  the  Danilof  will  be  seen  the 
red  walls  of  the  Donskoi  INIonastery 
(vide  Description),  and  further  still  is 


Russia. 


Boute  G. — Moscow  :  Novosimslci  Monastery. 


213 


the  tall,  golden-crowned  belfry  of  the 
Novo  Devichi  {see  under).  The  Spar- 
row Hills  will  be  seen  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Donskoi. 

In  the  cemetery  within  the  Simonoff 
are  buried  many  remarkable  men,  and 
amongst  them,  under  the  refectory, 
riel(l-3Iarshal  Bruce,  of  Scottish  origin. 

Near  the  monastery  is  a  small 
Reformatory  for  youthful  criminals, 
founded  in  1804  by  a  Society  for  tlie 
Diffusion  of  Christian  Knowledge.  It 
is  the  first  establishment  of  the  kind 
in  Russia  Proper.  It  holds  15  boys, 
and  is  supported  by  private  subscrip- 
tion. Travellers  are  invited  to  inspect 
this  '•  Ispravitelnyi  Priyut,"  conducted 
by  Prof.  Kapoustine. 


3.  Novospasl'i  Monastery. — On  the 
roatl  to  the  Simonoff,  as  well  as  in 
returning  to  Moscow,  the  visitor  will 
])ass  a  very  large  monastery,  called  the 
Novospa.ski  (New  Passion),  removed 
to  its  present  site  in  1490.  In  it  were 
buried  the  i)rincipal  members  of  the 
Romanoff  family,  before  it  became  a 
dynasty,  and  a  palace  within  it,  now 
destroyed,  was  for  some  time  occupied 
by  the  Nun  Martha,  mother  of  the 
first  Romanoff  sovereign,  and  who  lies 
buried  under  the  floor  of  the  cathe- 
dral. There  are  .5  churches  within  its 
walls.  The  cathedral  is  jirofusely  de- 
corated with  fresco-paintings,  repre- 
senting the  genealogy  of  the  sovereigns 
of  Russia  from  St.  *Olg-a  to  the  Tsar 
Alexis,  and  the  deseent  of  the  kings 
of  Isi-ael.  On  either  side  of  the  stair- 
case leading  up  to  the  cathedral  are 
representations  of  the  Greek  philo- 
.sophers  Solon,  Plato,  Ptolemy,  Plu- 
tarch, &c.  Behind  the  altar-screen 
are  portraits  of  the  ten  patriarchs  of 
Russia.  All  these  frescoes,  with  the 
exception  of  the  representation  of 
the  Last  Judgment  on  the  W.  wall 
of  the  cathedral,  were  restored  in 
1837.  The  male  visitor  should  go 
behind  the  altar-screen,  and  see  near 
the  right  wing  of  the  Ikonostas  the 
remarkable  frescoes  of  the  17th  centy., 
depicting  the  founders  of  the  ch.,  the 
Tsars  Michael  and  Alexis.     Many  of 


the  ancient  Boyar  families  of  Russia 
arc  buried  here,  but  the  gmve  of  most 
interest  to  the  foreign  visitor  is  that 
which  will  be  found  in  the  court  of  the 
monastery,  to  the  rt.  on  entering 
witlnn  its  walls.  The  inscription  on 
the  tomb  records  the  death  of  the 
Nun  Dosythea,  who  was  no  other  than 
the  Princess  Tarakanova,  daughter 
of  the  Empress  Elizabeth  and  of 
her  chancellor  Razumofsky.  It  will 
be  remembered  that  this  princess 
was  personated  by  an  imix)stor,  who 
was  perfidiously  seized  by  Gregory 
Orloff  at  Naples,  and  conveyed  in  a 
Prussian  ship  to  St.  I'etersburg,  where 
she  died,  in  the  fortress,  although  not 
by  drowning  during  an  inundation,  as 
assumed  by  the  painter  of  a  well- 
known  picture  exhibited  at  Paris  in 

1807. 

The  walls  of  this  monastery  have 
frequently  repelled  the  enemies  of 
IMoscow.  They  were  originally  built 
of  wood  in  1571,  in  expectation  of  the 
inroad  of  Khan  Divlet- Ghirei.  In 
1501,  when  the  Khan  invaded  Mosco- 
via,  this  monastery,  like  the  Simonoff 
and  the  Danilofi",  was  turned  into  a 
fortress.  It  was  again  put  into  a  de- 
fensive condition  in  1013  and  1018, 
when  the  Poles  occupied  the  city.  The 
present  walls  of  stone  were  built  be- 
tween 1040  and  1042,  at  the  expense 
of  the  Tsar  Michael  and  his  mother, 
Martha.  They  have  a  circumference 
of  about  430  Eng.  fms.,  and  their 
height  is  about  4  fms. 

The  helfry,  which  rises  235  ft.,  is  a 
very  handsome  object.  Commenced 
in  1750,  it  was  completed  in  1785. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  this  mo- 
nastery the  visitor  will  be  struck  by 
the  remains  of  a  gate  in  the  Russo- 
Byzantine  style  of  architecture.  It  is 
sjiid  to  have  belonged  to  an  archiepis- 
eopal  palace  whieh  once  stood  there. 
The  old  gate  now  leads  to  the  Kru- 
titski  barracks.  The  ch.  next  to  it  is 
the  parish  ch.  of  the  Assumption,  "  Na 
Krutitsalih,"  the  name  of  the  locality. 


4.   Noco-Devichi   Convent,    opposite 
the  Sparrow  Hills,  between  the  Mosk- 


214 


Itoute  G. — Moscow :  Diiislcoi  Monastery. 


Sect.  I. 


va  and  the  Deviche-pole,  or  Maidens' 
Field,  where  the  populace  is  enter- 
tained at  the  coronation  of  emperors. 
It   was  founded   in    1524   by  Vassili 
Ivanovitch,  Grand  Duke  of  Moscow, 
in  commemoration  of  the  capture   of 
Smolensk,   which    was  celebrutod    for 
its   miraculous  image   of  the  Virgin, 
once  deposited  at  ^Moscow,  but  restored 
to  Lithuania  in  145G.     A  copy  of  that 
image  was  transferred  from  the  Cathe- 
dral of  the  Assumption  to  this  convent 
on  its  foundation,  and  is  now  shown  in 
the  principal  ch.     llichly  endowed,  it 
became  a  refuge  for  Tsarinas  who  re- 
nounced  the   world,      Boris  Godunof 
and  his  sister  Irene,  widow  of  the  Tsar 
Theodore,  the  last  of  the  Ruriks,  re- 
tired here ;  but  the  patriarch,  accom- 
panied by  the  clergy  and  people,  came 
to  entreat  Boris,  in  I.'jOS,  to  assume  the 
reins  of  power,  which  had  been  in  the 
hands  of  a  Council  for  G  weeks,  and 
took  him  hence  in  state  to  the  palace 
of  the  Kremlin  :    12   years   later  the 
Novo-Devichi  was   the   scene  of  san- 
guinary contiicts  with  the  Poles,  and 
it  was  at  last  burnt  down  and  de- 
stroyed.    It  was,  however,  restored  by 
the  Tsjir  ^Michael.     Sophia,  the  ambi- 
tious sister  of  Peter  the  Great,  was 
confined   here.      Having    incited   the 
Streltsi  to  revolt  against  her  l>rother 
during  his  absence   abroad,   she   was 
forced  to  take  the  veil  under  the  name 
of  Susannah,  and  died  in  this  convent 
under  the  strictest  surveillance  in  1704. 
She  lies  buried  in  the  ch.,  together 
with   several   other    i)rincesses.      The 
Foundling   Hospital   established  here 
by  l*eterl.,  in  172."),  when  the  number 
of  children  amounted  to  250,  was  al)0- 
lislied  on  the  construction  of  the  great 
Foundling    Hospital,      Tlie    convent 
suifered  but  litth?  from  the  approach  .>f 
the  French  in  1812,  the  King  of  Naples 
having  ordered    that   Divine   service 
should  be  continued  as  usual ;  but  on 
the  retreat  of  Napoleon,  the  belfry  and 
other  buildings  were  only  saved  from 
being  blown  into  the  air  by  the  intre- 
pidity of  Sarah  and  a  few  other  nuns, 
who  bravely  extinguished  the  matches 
that  were  to  have  tired  a  train  of  gun- 
powder.   There  are  G  churches  within 
the  convent. 


5.  Dojisloi  Monastery. — This  build- 
ing is  also  a  considerable  way  out  of 
town,  beyond   the   Kaluga  Gate.     It 
was  founded    in    1592,   by   the   Tsar 
Theodore,  in   gratitude  for  a  victory 
over  Kazy  Girey,  Khan  of  the  Crimea, 
obtained  on  this  very  spot  by  the  mira- 
culous   interposition    of    tlie    Virgin 
3Iary,  whose  image  was  presented  to 
the  monastery  by  the  Cossacks  of  the 
Don,  whence  its  name.    A  church  i)ro- 
cession  still  eelebrates  the  <lefeat  of  the 
Tartars  on  the  19th  ';31sti  Aug.     It 
was  once  endowed  with  7000  serfs,  and 
G  inferior  monasteries  were  subjeet  to 
it.     The  principal   ch.,  of  red  brick, 
was  built  in  1G84  bv  Catherine,  sister 
of  Peter  the  Groat.     The  frescoes  ou 
the  walls  were  i)ainted  in  1785  by  an 
Italian.     The  image  of  the  Virgin  of 
the  Don  will  be  seen  in  thealtjir-screen, 
ornamented  with  ja-ecious  stones.  The 
altar  below  was  erected  at  the  expense 
of  the  Tsars  of  (ieorgia.     The  2nd  ch., 
dedicated    to    the   same   Virgin,    was 
built  in  1592,  and  its  chapels  in  1G59,- 
2  of  the  other  chs.  were  constructed  in 
1714,  the  5th  is  still  more  modern.  The 
walls  and  towers  were  finished  in  1G92, 
having  Ix'en  comnH'nced  by  the  sister 
of  Peter  the  Great.     The  cemetery  is 
an  object  of  great  interest,  being  the 
last  resting-place  of  many  celebrated 
men  and  families.     The  tomb  of  Count 
Woronzoft",  many  years  andtassador  in 
England,    bears   the   only   inseri])tion 
legible  to  the  Western  traveller,  who 
should  not  fail  to  drive  here  in  theccH)! 
of  the  evening,  and  stroll  or  sit  under 
the  trees  in  the  churchvard,  one  of  the 
favourite  resorts  of  the  Moscovites. 


G.  Freobrajensloy^  Kladhi'stche,  or 
Transfirfuration  Cemetery. — Travellers 
studying  the  llussian  Church  should 
endeavour  to  see  some  of  the  places  of 
worship  of  the  Dis.senters.  The  sect 
of  liespopovstchiua,  or  those  who  do 
not  recognise  any  priesthootl  or  sacra- 
ments, may  be  seen  at  the  above  ceme- 
tery, so  called  from  its  having  been  a 
burj'ing-ground  and  quarantine-sta- 
tion during  the  plague  of  1771,  but  in 
rciility  an  ecclesiastical  establisliutcut 


Iiussia. 


Itoute  (j. — Moscoic :  Gardens. 


215 


and  workhouse,  under  the  supervision 
of  the  Philanthropical  Society.  Tiie 
principal  chapel  was  converted  into  an 
orthodox  ch.  in  1852,  when  permission 
was  granted  to  perform  Divine  service 
in  it  according  to  the  ritual  used  prior 
to  the  innovations  of  Nicon.  It  may 
be  entered  freely.  The  sect  of  Bespo- 
povstchina  is  one  of  the  most  numerous 
of  the  subdivisions  of  llussian  dissent, 
and  is  remarkable  as  being  strongly 
opposed  to  the  civil  power,  which  they 
only  profess  to  recognise  under  compul- 
sion. Even  the  Emperor  is  styled  by 
them  "  the  Antichrist,"  and  no  prayers 
are  oftered  up  for  the  reigning  house 
in  their  churches.  The  singing  will 
be  found  very  peculiar,  and  especially 
that  of  the  women,  who  perform  Divine 
service  in  a  chapel  apart  from  the 
men. 

On  the  entry  of  the  French  into 
]Moscowthe  BespoiK)Vstchina  welcomed 
them  with  a  i)ie  tilled  with  ducats 
and  with  a  white  bull.  Napoleon  gave 
them  a  pass  of  safe-conduct  and  a 
guard  of  soldiers.  The  services  of  the 
"  Popovstchina,"  or  sect  who  have  a 
priesthood,  and  who  only  adhere  to  the 
old  form  of  worship,  may  be  seen  at 
the  "  Kogojskoye  Kladbistche'." 


7.  refrnfslcl  Park  and  Palace. — If 
the  traveller  be  in  Moscow  during 
summer,  he  .should  drive  through 
the  Petrofski  Park,  beyond  the  Tver 
(iiate.  The  ]ialace  was  commenced  in 
1775,  and  finished  in  the  reign  of  Paul. 
The  Emperor  occai-iionally  visits  it, 
and  reviews  are  held  in  the  field  oppo- 
site. There  is  also  a  race-course  in  the 
vicinity  for  trotting-matches.  NajKileon 
retired  to  this  pahice  after  the  Kremlin 
became  untenahle. 

Saxs  Garden,  within  this  park,  is  a 
favourite  resort  on  summer  evenings, 
when  a  band  plays,  and  a  short  dis- 
ti\nce  out  of  the  park  is  Petrofskoe'- 
llaznuwvskoe',  a  very  pretty  garden, 
open  to  the  public. 


the  style  of  Russian  vehicles  and  the 
manner  of  holiday-making.  Sunday  is 
a  favourite  day  for  picnics ;  but  the 
1st  (13th)  May  ia  more  especially  the 
day  of  gathering. 


9.  Zoological  Gardens. — The  Impe- 
rial Acclimatisation  Society  of  Russia 
founded  this  garden  on  some  land 
granted  by  H.  I.  M.,  and  embracing 
about  30  acres,  very  prettily  laid  out. 
The  margins  of  2  large  ponds  are 
planted  with  the  willow,  the  birch,  and 
the  fir.  In  summer  the  greater  part  of 
the  animals  are  out  in  the  open  air, 
but-  in  winter  they  are  comfortably 
housed  in  buildings.  The  bisons  from 
the  province  of  Grodno  and  some 
species  of  antelope  are  among  the  most 
remarkable  animals  in  the  collection, 
which  comprises  the  usual  specimens 
of  a  menagerie.  A  band  enlivens  the 
scene,  which  will  be  found  crowded 
with  Moscow  elegants.  In  winter  ice- 
hills  and  skating  attract  manv  visitors 
to  these  gardens.  Oi)en  daily  from  11 
A.M.  to  dusk ;  admission  20  copecks. 


8.   Sokolnikl,   the  People's  Park. — 
Travellers  should  drive  there  to  see 


10.  The  Hermitage  Gardens. — A 
place  of  amusement  every  night  during 
summer.  The  grounds  are  most  taste- 
fully laid  out.  In  addition  to  many 
other  attractions,  the  gipsies  sing  here 
their  wild  melodies,  frequently  accom- 
panied by  dances.  From  time  imme- 
morial the  female  gipsies  of  Moscow 
have  been  much  addicted  to  the  vocal 
art,  and  bands  of  them  have  sung  for 
pay  in  the  halls  of  the  nobility,  or  upon 
the  boards  of  the  theatre.  Some  first-rate 
singers  have  been  produced  amongst 
them,  whose  merits  have  been  acknow- 
ledged by  the  most  fastidious  foreign 
critics.  It  must  not  of  course,  be  sup- 
posed that  the  generality  of  these  gipsies 
are  exquisite  vocalists:  the  majority 
follow  the  occupation,  but  are  very  bad 
singers ;  many  of  them  obtain  a  liveli- 
hood by  singing  and  dancing  at  taverns 
and  on  the  race-course ;  at  the  fairs 
of  Nijni  and  Smolensk  they  also  muster 


in  great  strength. 


Their  songs  are  iu 


216 


JRoutc  6. — Moscow  :  Promenades ;  Theatres,  Sect.  I. 


Russian  and  in  their  own  dialect.  In  tlie 
provincial  towns  they  follow  the  ])ro- 
iession  for  wliich  they  are  so  admirahly 
fitted  by  education,  horse-dealinji^  and 
hocuHsiiig.  Their  pcnsonnl  attractions 
are  sometimes  considerable;  and  on 
great  occasions  they  are  arrayed  in 
splendid  dresses,  and  sparkle  with 
jewels. 

Ladies  may  visit  these  gardens. 
There  are,  moreover,  several  guingnettes 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  ^Moscow,  whore 
the  male  traveller  may  study  "  life." 
IMarina-Rosteha,  freipiented  by  the 
native  merchants,  is  one  of  these. 


11.  Vromcnades. — The  middle  classes 
walk  in  the  gardens  of  the  Kn  inlin  in 
tiie  tine  spring  evenings.  At  the  foot 
of  the  wall  a  nninbcr  of  artificial  hills 
have  been  raised,  wiion.',  on  holidays, 
Ijands  are  ])laced.  These  hills  are 
hollowed  out  beneath  and  supj)orted 
by  pillars,  and  the  benches  with  which 
they  are  provideil  afford  cool  resting- 
places  for  the  weary. 

The  Tver  Boulevards,  surroundhig 
tlie  B(.-loi  Gorod,  ani  pleasant  and  fa- 
shionable, though  less  agieenblc  tlian 
the  Alexander  Garden.  The  Boule- 
vards are  broad  walks  laid  out  with 
trees,  shrubs,  and  parterres,  far  more 
rural  and  pleasing  than  tlie  formal  lime 
avenues  ot  Berlin.  During  the  Easter 
and  Carnival  weeks  thev  are  jjrreatlv 
frequented  by  the  citizens  in  their 
sledges,  and  the  numerous  booths  give 
them  all  the  appearance  of  a  fair. 

The  traveller  should  on  no  account 
leave  Moscow  without  seeing  the  Krem- 
lin by  moonlight.  Tiio  Flower  Market 
is  a  pleasant  lounge  in  summer. 


THEATRES,  CLUBS,  ETC. 

Theatres.  —  Moscow  possesses  two 
theatres  almost  adjoining  each  other, 
and  facing  the  walls  of  the  Kitai-Gorod. 
The  "  Bolshoi  '  Theatre  is  the  largest 
of  the  two.  The  inside  of  the  house, 
which  is  most  elegantly  fitted  up,  will 
hold  about  15U0  persons.     It  was  de- 


stroyed by  fire  in  1852,  and  reopened 
in  1856.  The  receipts  are  about  3U0Z. 
a  ni^ht.  Two  companies  perform  here 
— the  Russian  Opera,  and  the  Ballet.* 
The  Russian  Opera  and  Ballet  3  times 
a  week,  between  1st  (13th)  May  and  1st 
(13th)  Sei)tember,  and  almost  <laily  at 
other  seasons.  Stalls  for  Ballet  and 
Russian  Op(;ra  1  to  3  r. ;  boxes  5  to 
10  r. 

The  lesser  theatre,  for  Russian  drama 
and  high  comedy,  is  ojuni  all  the  year 
round.  It  will  hold  500,  and  its  re- 
ceipts arc  alxmt  100/.  wlien  full.  If 
the  traveller  have  time,  he  may  find  it 
instructive  to  attend  a  Russian  drama 
or  comedy,  for,  although  he  may  not 
understand  the  dialogue,  he  may  study 
the  manners  and  customs  of  the  country 
as  depicted  on  the  stage.  The  plays 
of  Gogol  and  Ostrofski  are  particularly 
worth  seeing. 

There  are  also  theatrical  representa- 
tions during  summer  in  the  IVtrofski 
Park.  The  first  theatre  in  Moscow  was 
built  hi  1780  by  an  Englishman  of  the 
name  of  Maddox. 

Hinne's  Circus  is  in  Wosdwijenka-st. 
Boxes  5  to  6  rs. ;  Stalls,  1  r.  50  c. 

Clnhs. — The  princijtal  club  at  ]Mos- 
cow,  as  at  St.  Petersburg,  is  called  the 
"  English  Club."  It  was  eshiblished 
by  an  English  merchant  in  the  reign  of 
Catherine  II.,  and  has  flourished  ever 
since,  with  the  exception  of  a  short 
period  of  suspension  during  the  reign  of 
the  lOmp.  I'aul.  Travellers  are  easily 
admitted  on  application  to  a  member. 
All  the  newspapers  may  be  seen  there, 
and  it  is  a  i)lace  where  the  affairs  of 
the  nation  are  discussed  every  evening 
over  a  cigar  and  a  cup  of  tea. 

The  Merchojifs'  Cliib  is  well  sup- 
port<'d,  and  is  still  easier  of  access.  The 
pa])ers  may  likewise  be  read  there. 

The  Fast  OJfice  is  a  large  building 
on  the  road  to  the  St.  Petersburg  Rly. 
Stat.  Letters  are  distributed  at  about 
3  r.M.,  and  must  be  posted  overnight  at 
the  hotels,  or  at  the  station  before  the 
departure  of  the  train  at  noon. 

KiujUsh  Chapel.  —  There  is   Divine 

*  The  Italian  Opera  has  been  discontinued, 
owing  to  the  absence  of  funds,  but  the  traveller 
should  inquire  whether  it  has  not  been  aguhi 
opened. 


Uussia. 


Ilouie  7. — 3Ioscov)  to  Troitsa. 


217 


Service  every  Sunday,  at  11  a.m.,  at 
the  British  chapel  in  Chernishefski 
I'ereulok.  Established  1825.  The 
l<]nglish  residents  at  IMoscow  and  the 
ueighbt)urhood  are  more  than  500  in 
number. 

lloman  Catholic  Chapels.  —  There 
are  2  Roman  Catholic  chapels  at  Mos- 
cow : — 

1.  German  chapel,  dedicated  to  St. 
Peter  and  St.  Paul,  in  Little  Lubianka- 
street.  Mass  at  8,  9,  and  10  o'clock 
on  week-days,  and  on  Sundays  at  8,  t>, 
10,  and  11  o'clock  ;  vespers  at  5  p.m. 

2.  French  chapel,  dedicated  to  St. 
Louis ;  entrance  either  from  Great  or 
liittle  Lubianka-street.  Mass  at  9 
and  10  o'clock  on  week-days,  and  at 
10  and  11  A.M.  on  Sundays;  vespers  at 

5  P.M. 

Brithli  Consulate. — There  is  a  Bri- 
tish Consul  at  ISIoscow.  His  address 
will  easilv  be  ascertained. 


ROUTE  7. 

moscow  to  tpvoitsa  monastepwy 
(tkoitskaya-sekgieva  LAVKA). 

By  rail  in  2  h.  20  m.,  distance  40  m.  ; 
fare  2  rs.  each  way ;  3  trains  a  day. 
(This  line  is  being  extended  to  Yaro- 
slaf.) 

The  facility  with  which  this  histo- 
rical monastery  can  now  be  visited  leaves 
the  traveller  no  excuse  for  neglecting  a 
pilgrimage  to  the  shrine  (if  St.  Seigius, 


its  founder  .and  patron.  This  is  the 
Canterbury  of  Russia,  and  a  day  may 
well  be  devoted  to  it.  St.  Sergius,  the 
sou  of  a  boyar  of  Rostof,  at  the  head  of 
twelve  discijiles,  established  a  monas- 
tery on  this  s]>ot  about  the  year  1342. 
His  piety,  and  the  honour  conferred  on 
him  by  the  Patriarch  of  Constantinople, 
soon  rendered  him  and  his  brotherhood 
famous.  The  princes  of  Moscow  sought 
his  counsel,  and  the  oft-mentioned 
Dimitry  of  the  Don  was  blessed  by 
him  before  he  set  out  for  the  battle  of 
Kulikova.  Two  monks  from  this  mo- 
nastery, Osliabia  and  Peresvet,  fought 
by  the  side  of  the  victorious  prince, 
!ind  one  of  them  fell  dead,  together  with 
bis  Tartar  adversary,  in  single  combat. 
The  intervention  of  St.  Sergius  on  this 
memorable  occasion  was  rewarded  by 
large  grants  of  lands,  and  thenceforth 
the  monastery  grew  rich  and  powerful ; 
its  abbot,  liowever,  the  holy  Serijjius, 
remaining,  as  before, simple,  self-dtny- 
ing,  and  laborious,  and  cutting  wood 
and  fetching  water  to  the  last.  His 
right  to  canonization  was  still  further 
established  by  the  visitation  (recorded 
in  the  annals  of  the  Russo- Greek 
Church)  of  the  Holy  Virgin,  who  ap- 
peared in  his  cell,  accompanied  by 
the  apostles  Peter  and  John,  about 
the  year  1388.  He  died  in  1392.  The 
Tartar  hordes  of  Khan  Edigei  laid 
waste  this  holy  habitation  in  1408,  and 
it  was  only  re-established,  together 
with  the  present  Cathedral  of  the 
Trinity,  in  1423.  Thirty  monasteries 
wx're  subsequently  attached  to  it,  and 
much  land,  until,  in  1764,  St.  Sergius 
was  the  i)ossessor  as  well  as  the  patron 
of  more  than  100,000  male  serfs.  The 
most  prominent  portion  of  the  history 
of  the  monastery  is  the  siege,  by  30,000 
Poles,  imder  Sapieha  and  Lisofski,  in 
1608,  which  was  only  raised,  after  six- 
teen mouths,  on  the  apjjroach  of  a  largo 
Russian  force.  Later  again,  after  the 
election  of  Michael  Romanoff,  Ladislaus 
of  Poland,  styling  himself  Tsar  of  Mos- 
covy,  besieged  the  Troitsa  Monastery 
once  more,  but  he  was  repulsed  by  the 
brotherhood.  AVlien  the  Poles  were  in 
possession  of  Moscow,  the  monks  of  St. 
Sergius  rendered  considerable  assist- 
ance to  their  countrymen  in  the  shai)e 


218 


Boute  7. — Troltsa. 


Sect.  I. 


of  supplies  in  bread  and  money.  The 
most  interesting  fact,  however,  in  the 
records  of  the  Troitsa  Monastery  is, 
that  it  was  the  place  of  refuge  on  two 
occasions  of  Peter  the  Great  and  his 
brother  John,  when  they  fled  from  the 
insurgent  Streltsi.  Since  then  the  re- 
pose of  the  monks  has  not  been  dis- 
turbed by  political  events.  The  French, 
in  1812,  went  half-way  towards  the 
monastery,  but  returned  without  the 
expected  booty. 

The  plague  and  the  cholera  Imve 
never  ventured  within  tlie  holy  walls, 
which  were  founded  in  1513  and 
tinished  in  1517.  They  extend  4500 
feet,  and  are  from  30  to  50  feet  high, 
with  a  thickness  of  20  feet.  Tiiey 
were  put  in  order  by  Peter  the  Great, 
but  their  present  appearance  is  due  to 
a  lati>r  period.  Eight  towers  form  the 
angles ;  one  of  them,  of  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, is  surmounted  by  an  obelisk, 
terminating  in  a  duck  carved  in  stone, 
to  connuemorate  the  fnct  of  Peter  tlie 
Great  having  practised  duck-shooting 
on  a  ncighl)0uring  pond. 

There  are  10  churches  within  the 
monasteiy.  The  most  ancient  is  the 
Cathedral  of  the  Trinity.  The  shrine 
of  St.  Sergius  stands  within  it,  weigh- 
ing 930  lbs.  of  pure  silver.  The  relics 
of  the  saint  nrv  exposed  to  view.  In 
the  altar-screen,  in  a  glass  case,  will  be 
seen  the  statt"  anil  other  ecclesiastical 
appurtenances  of  the  patron.  Two 
pietiu-es  of  the  saint,  painted  on  portions 
of  his  coffin,  are  suspended  on  the  walls. 
Tiiat  near  tlie  shrine  was  carried  into 
battle  by  the  Tsar  Alexis  and  by  Peter 
the  Great,  and  the  Emperor  Alexander  I. 
was  blessed  with  it  in  1812.  On  a 
silver  plate  at  the  back  of  tJie  image 
are  recorded  the  several  military  occa- 
sions at  which  it  assisted.  The  inte- 
rior of  the  cathedral  is  replete  with 
massive  silver  ornaments,  and  in  the 
archbishop's  stall  is  a  representation  of 
the  Last  Supper,  of  which  the  figures 
are  of  solid  gold,  with  the  exception  of 
Judas,  who  is  of  brass.  All  the  images 
are  adorned  with  precious  stones.  The 
small  chapel  alongside  was  added  in 
1552,  rebuilt  in  1023,  and  again  in 
1779  and  1840.  Next  to  this  is  a  small 
chapel,  erected  over  the  sup[X)sed  site 


of  the  cell  in  which  the  Holy  Virgin 
appeared  to  St.  Sergius.  The  large 
chundi,  with  5  cupolas,  was  consc^cratt-d 
in  1585,  and  is  called  the  Assmnption 
of  the  Virgin.  The  frescoes  were 
painted  in  1081.  One  of  its  altars  was 
consecrated  in  1609,  during  the  roar 
of  the  Polish  artillery,  and  devoted  to 
prayer  for  deliverance  from  the  seurvy, 
of  which  disease  3000  of  the  inmates 
of  the  monastery  had  already  i)erished. 
The  large  two-headed  eagle  in  wood 
comm<'morat(s  the  concealment  of  Peter 
the  Great  under  the  altar  during  the 
insurrection  of  the  Streltsi. 

Otf  the  S.AV.  angle  of  the  church,  in  a 
chapel,  is  a  well  dug  l>y  St.  Sergius,  and 
discovered  in  1G44,  at  a  time  when  the 
monjistery  was  in  great  need  of  fresh 
water,  lietween  the  Assumption  and 
the  belfry  stands  a  monument  erected 
in  1792,  on  which  the  princij)al  events 
in  the  history  of  the  monastery  are  re- 
corded. The  fourth  ehurch,  "Tlie  Dc- 
seent  of  the  Holy  (ihost,"  was  founded, 
after  the  capture  of  Kazan,  by  the  Tsar 
Ivan  Vassilevitch  in  person.  The  tcfnib 
of  INIaximus,  a  learned  Greek,  stands 
in  a  small  chapel  close  by.  The  next 
church  in  imi>ortance  is  that  of  "Ser- 
gius Padonejski,"  with  an  innueusc. 
refectory  and  a  gallery  all  round,  built 
in  1092.  The  iron  roof,  added  in  1740, 
after  a  lire,  is  of  a  very  jK'Culiar  me- 
chaidcal  construction.  Over  the  chmcli 
is  a  depository  of  nearly  4000  old  books 
and  jNISS.,  amongst  the  most  renin rknblo 
of  which  is  a  copy  of  the  Evangelists 
on  parchment,  attributed  to  the  early 
I)art  of  the  13th  cent. 

The  heJfry  near  the  Church  of  tlie 
Assumption  was  designed  by  i{astrelli, 
and  tinished  in  1709.  It  is  remarkable 
for  its  height  and  architecture,  and 
rises  290  ft.  from  the  ground.  The  Ijell 
in  the  second  tier  weighs  luarlv  05 
tons.  Of  the  manv  other  buildings 
within  the  walls  of  tlie  monastery, 
we  may  mention  the  Palace,  built  by 
Peter  I.,  now  occupied  by  the  Eccle- 
siastical Aciidemy,  which  alone,  as  the 
principal  seat  of  priestly  instruction,  is 
well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The  learned  an<l 
obliging  rector  willingly  converses  with 
visitors  in  one  of  the  dead  languages. 

Another  church  has  been  added  to 


Russia. 


Boute  7. — Troitsa. 


219 


the  many  sacred  edifices  already  con- 
tained within  the  walls  of  the  Troitsa 
Men.  It  was  dedicated  Aug.  5,  1807, 
to  "  Pliilaret  the  Uenefactor"  on  the 
occasion  of  the  50th  anniversary  of  the 
Episcopate  of  the  Metropolitan  Pliila- 
ret, who  has  since  been  buried  within 
it.  The  venerable  prelate  died  19  Nov. 
1807,  O.S. 

The  Sacristy  of  the  Mona.stery  occu- 
I)ies  four  rooms  in  a  detached  building, 
and  is  the  object  of  paramount  curiosity 
to  most  travellers.  Its  principal  con- 
tents must  be  specified  and  preluded  by 
a  few  observations  on  the  art  treasures 
of  Kussia. 

It  would  be  futile  to  expect  the 
monastic  libraries  and  treasures  of 
Iiussia  to  be  rich  in  antiquities  of  the 
kind  that  may  be  found  in  the  more 
southern  parts  of  Europe.  Works  of  art 
of  even  media3val  date  are  exotic  in 
liUssia  if  they  be  works  of  art  nt  all. 
In  other  countries — in  Italy,  in  France, 
Spain,  ICngland,  even  in  Germany,  and 
everywhere  in  the  Levant — the  his- 
torian and  the  antiquary  tread  on 
ground  more  or  less  classic.  The  soil 
Ijeneath  their  feet  is  at  a  greater  or  less 
depth  Roman.  That  of  Kussia  is  Scla- 
vonic with  alternating  strata  of  Tartar 
<lominion.  Her  only  link  with  the 
classical  associations  of  Byzantium  and 
liome  is  that  of  the  jnarriage  of  Ivan 
Vassilevitcli  of  Moscovy  witli  the  niece 
of  the  lastPahTologus  emperor,—  a  link, 
indeed,  and  the  last,  in  the  long  chain 
of  IJyzantine  records,  Ijut  from  whieli 
depends  whatever  of  inheritance  Iiussia 
may  claim  in  the  nominal  empire  of 
the  East.  Her  Church  was  of  earlier 
origin,  but  tlie  Christianity  of  the  age 
of  St.  Vladimir  has  bequeathed  to  a 
later  period  little  indeed  of  its  material 
productions  in  the  form  of  manuscripts 
or  ornaments.  One  of  the  oldest — if  the 
date  asisigned  to  it  be  true—  is  the  volume 
in  the  Troitsa  IMonasteiy,  with  the  as- 
serted date  of  the  twelfth  century.  It 
is  stated  to  be  a  copy  of  the  Scriptures, 
brought  from  INIount  Athos. 

As  might  be  expected,  however,  the 
greater  part  of  the  treasures  of  this 
place  of  pilgrimage  Ixilong  to  datesmuch 
later  than  that  claimed  for  this  MS. 

Russia. — 1808. 


Such  is  the  resplendent  copy  of  the 
Gospels  given  by  the  Tsar  Michael  in 
1032,  the  covers  of  which  are  beau- 
tifully ornamented  with  floral  and 
arabesque  patterns  in  enamel-work.  A 
large  cross,  with  rubies  of  fine  colour, 
is  emblazoned  on  them,  in  contrast 
with  emeralds  and  sapphires  of  great 
size  and  beauty.  There  is  also  a  mitre 
that  belonged*  to  the  Archimandrite 
AVarlaam,  a  gift  from  the  Empress  Anne, 
and  conspicuous  for  the  fine  spinel 
rubies  and  large  pearls  with  which  it 
is  adorned. 

A  printed  volume  of  the  Church  ser- 
vice fulorned  with  illuminations  and 
a  minute  copy  w' ritten  in  golden  letters 
on  Persian  vellum  of  the  thinnest  and 
most  delicate  texture,  hardly  thicker 
than  goldbeaters  skin,  are  well  worthy 
of  notice. 

The  rich  robes  worn  by  the  priest- 
hood in  the  gorgeous  ceremonial  of  the 
Russian  Church  furnish  excellent  ob- 
jects on  which  wealth  may  be  accumu- 
lated in  a  form  naturally  precious  in 
the  eyes  of  the  dwellers  in  a  monastery. 
The  jewelled  robes  preserved  in  this 
far-fiuued  fortress- shrine  are  hardly  if 
at  all  inferior  in  costliness  to  those 
contained  in  the  cathedrals  witliin  the 
jirecinct  of  the  ]\Ioscow  Kremlin.  Im- 
perial personages  have  vied  with  each 
other  in  the  richness  of  their  gifts,  and 
even  the  pearl  headdress  that  adorned 
the  brows  of  Catherine  II.  at  her  coro- 
nation finds  a  liome  here  as  an  orna- 
ment on  a  priestly  vestment.  But  the 
interest  attaching  to  these,  as  also  to 
tlie  enormously  rich  crosses  and  other 
pai-aphernalia  of  the  Chiu-ch  service  at 
the  Troitsa,  lies  rather  in  their  wealth 
of  jewellery,  and  in  the  high  personages 
whose  gifts  they  were,  than  in  the 
beauty  of  the  art  displayed  in  them 
or  in  the  antiquity  of  which  they  may 
boast. 

Among  the  more  exceptional  of  such 
objects,  however,  is  a  casket,  richly 
adorned  with  cloisonnee  enamel-work, 
perhaps  of  Venetian  manufacture ; 
while  of  the  diamonds  in  a  crown 
presented  by  the  P^mpress  Elizabeth 
some  3  or  4  might  worthily  adorn  an 
imperial  diadem.    A  crucifix,  with  a 

M 


;^g^ite  S.— Moscow  to  Nijni  Novgorod.  Sect.  I. 


220 

Siberian  aquamarine  of  large  size  and 
fine  colour,  was  also  an  imperial  i)ro- 
sent  in  1797  ;  and  two  singular  objects 
are  shown  as  natural  productions  in 
the  form  of  representations,  the  one  of  a 
natural  cross,  in  a  sort  of  jasper  or  horn- 
stone,  formed  by  two  white  veins  cross- 
ing one  another  in  the  brown  material 
of^the  stone:  the  other,  an  agate, 
adorned  by  half  a  dozen  fine  garnets. 
In  the  material  of  the  agate  a  pattern 
is  seen,  pretty  accurately  representing 
a  monk  in  adoration  bc;fore  a  crucifix. 
It  is  produced  in  part,  no  doubt,  by 
the  pattern  naturally  assumed  by  the 
coloured  portion  of  the  stone,  which 
has  suggested  to  an  ingenious  hand  to 
help  the  illusion  l)y  a  little  artifice,  the 
concealment  of  which  is  consi<lerably 
aided  by  the  dithculty  of  closely  in- 
specting the  stone.  It  may  possibly 
prove  to  consist  of  two  slal)s  cemented 
together. 

The  sapphires  forming  a  cross  on 
an  altar-cloth  of  the  date  of  179r)  are 
marvellously  beautiful  ;  nor  shouM 
notice  be  omitted  of  an  altar-cloth  of 
the  date  of  Boris  Godunolf,  adorned 
with  an  embroidery  of  magnificent 
pearls,  and  with  many  sajiphires  and 
emeralds  en  rahochon  disposed  in  f )rderly 
arrangement  among  them  and  equally 
lavish  in  their  costliness.  :Minglcd 
with  all  this  magnificence  will  bo  seen 
the  wooden  vessels  and  coarse  woollen 
rolKS  of  the  founder,  more  highly  es- 
teemed by  the  pilgrims  than  the  rich 
vestments  of  his  successors. 

The  shells  exhibited  as  relics  of  the 
Polish  siege  will,  on  inspection,  prove 
to  bear  the  Napoleonic  cipher. 

Travellers  should  inspect  the  studif)S 
of  painting  and  photography  within 
the  Monastery.     Beautiful  specimens 
of  ecclesiastical  painting  may  be  pur- 
chased there  at  a  very  moderate  pric-e. 
At  about  li  m.  from  the  IMonastery 
is  the  hermitage  or  "skit"  of  Gcth- 
semane,  founded,  in  1845, 1)y  Thilaret, 
Metropolitan  of  Moscow.     There  are 
carriages  in  attendance  at  the  rly.  stat. 
to  take  the  traveller  to  this  prettily- 
situated  retreat.    The  ch.  is  remark-  | 
able  on  account  of  the  simplicity  of  | 
its  interior.     The  vessels  used  in  the  ' 
eervices  are  of  wood,  and  the  altar  J 


itself,  after  an  ancient  model,  is  of  oak. 
Women  are  not  admitted  except  on  the 
10th  (2sth)  and  17th  (29th)  August, 
the  feast-days  of  the  Church,  which 
is  dedicated  to  the  ascent  of  the  Jloly 
Virgin  into  heaven.     There  are  some 
catacombs    in    the   vicinity,    through 
which  the  traveller  will  pass  with  a 
shudder  when  he  hears  that  the  cells 
are  inhabited  by  human  beings,  some 
of  whom  are  fulfilling  vows  of  seclusion 
from  man  and  the  light  of  day.    There 
are  still  larger  catacombs,  about  3  m. 
farther,  where  each  cell  is  surrounded 
l)y   a   wooden   wall,   and    where    the 
solitary  recluse   is   efiectually   barred 
out  from  all  communication  with  the 
world.     There  are  some  very  ciu-ious 
toys,    spoons   of  wood,   little   crosses, 
and  other  pilgrims'  tokens,  to  be  pur- 
chased at  the  Troitsa  IMonastery,  as 
well  as  at  the  hermitage  of  Gethse- 
mane.   The  refectory  should  be  visited 
durhig  the  hours  of  meals,  when  hos- 
pitality will  lu!  warmly  offered  to  the 
stranger  on  a  pilgrimage  to  St.  Sergius. 
There  is  a  good  Hotel  opposite  tlie 
IMonastery.      Excellent    refreshments 
may  also  be  procured  at  the  Kailway 
Station. 


r.OUTE  8. 

MOSCOW  TO  NIJNI  NOVGOROD,  WITH 
BRANCH  LINE  TO  SHUYA  AND  IVAN- 
OVO, AND  EXCTRSION  UP  THE  OKA  TO 
MUROM,   ELATMA,   AND   RASIMOF. 

To  Nijni  Novgorod  by  rail  in  12 
hrs.  by  exi)ress  every  night  diuring  the 
fair,  held  between  27th  July  and  22nd 


V 


Xussiii. 


Ttontc  8. —  Vladimir. 


001 


September,  new  style.  (N.B. — the  best 
time  to  visit  Nijni  Novgorod  is  at  the 
end  of  August,  new  style.)  1st  class, 
12  rs.  30  c.  Ordinary  train  once  a  day. 
Distance  from  Moscow  410  v.  (273  m.). 
Moscow  time  kept  at  stations. 

40  m.  Tavlofsk  Stat.,  Buftet.  A 
small  town  on  the  Kliasma,  3000  In- 
hab.,  12  silk-weaving  and  G  chintz 
fixctories. 

77  m.  Petushki  Stat.    Buft'. 

118  m.  Vladimir  Stat.  Biift'.  Chief 
town  of  province  of  same  name:  15,000 
Inhal).  Stands  high  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  Kliasma.  The  small  river  Lybed 
divides  it  into  two  parts.  The  ancient 
quarter  of  the  town  is  surrounded  by 
three  walls,  which  form  the  Kremlin, 
the  Kitai-gorod,  and  the  Beloi-gorotl, 
as  at  Moscow.  Vladimir,  founded, 
according  to  some  authorities,  by 
Vladimir  Monomachus,  in  the  12tli 
centy.,  and  according  to  others  by 
Crcorge  Dolgorouky,  was  once  the 
capital  of  an  important  principality, 
fretjuently  ravaged    by  the   Tartars. 

There  are  22  churches  at  Vladimir, 
of  which  the  most  remarkable  are — 

1.  Uspenski  (Assumption)  Cathe- 
dral. Founded  1 154  by  Prince  Andrew 
Bogoliubski,  and  finished  IIGO,  in  a 
style  of  great  magnificence.  It  was, 
however,  destroyed  by  fire  in  1184, 
and  restored  in  1189  and  1193.  Dur- 
ing the  invasion  of  Baty  Khan  in 
1238,  when  the  Tartars  took  Vladimir 
by  assault,  the  Princess  of  Vladimir, 
her  3  sons  and  daughter  and  other 
relations,  the  Bishop  of  Vladimir,  the 
clergy,  Boyars  and  others,  shut  them- 
selves up  in  the  cathedral,  l)ut  the 
Tartars  piled  wihmX  around  it,  and  de- 
stroyed by  fire  both  the  edifice  and 
those  who  had  taken  refuge  within  it. 
Some  years  after  tliis  catastrophe  the 
cathedral  was  restored,  and  long  re- 
mained the  first  ch.  in  Russia.  Even 
after  the  seat  of  sovereignty  had  been 
removed  from  Vladimir  to  Moscow  (in 
1328)  the  Grand  Duke  of  Moscow  con- 
tiimed  to  be  crowned  in  the  cathedral 
until  1432.  It  was  thoroughly  re- 
stored in  1774  and  again  in  1834. 
Some  of  the  pictures  in  the  altar-screen 
are  ancient,  that  of  the  Holy  Virgin 


having  been  painted  In  1299.  I'he 
relics  of  3  canonized  princes  of  Vladi- 
mir repose  in  shrines  of  silver.  A 
great  number  of  princes  of  Vladimir 
are  buried  within.  There  is  also  a 
monument  to  Count  Kobert  WoronzofF, 
who  died  1783.  The  sacristy  is  full  of 
antiquities,  such  as  the  robes  of  the 
old  i>rinces,  and  a  copy  of  the  '  Evan- 
gelist '  of  1541.  A  picture  by  Tone), 
representing  the  baptism  of  the  Kie- 
vites  in  the  reign  of  Vladhnir,  will 
likewise  be  shown. 

2.  Cathedral  of  Demetrius  of  Solun, 
within  the  Krendin.  It  was  built 
1194.  The  white  sandstone  which 
forms  its  walls  is  curiously  carved 
with  representations  r)f  animals,  birds, 
&c.  Having  Ix^en  restored  by  order 
of  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  it  is  one  of 
the  best  specimens  extant  of  Russo- 
Byzantine  church  architecture.  Ono 
of  the  finest  juonuments  of  civil  archi- 
tecture of  the  same  period  will  be 
found  in  the  "  Golden  Gate  "  (Zolot}  a 
Vorota),  built  in  1158  as  a  poifa 
trliimphdlis.  The  ancient  ch.  above  it 
was  destroyed  during  the  Tartar  in- 
vasion ;  the  present  edifice  is  modern. 
The  old  earthern  walls  of  the  town 
may  be  partly  traced.  There  are  many 
fine  buildings  of  modern  date  at 
Vladhnir,  such  as  the  Assembly  House 
of  the  Nobility,  with  a  fine  hall,  and  a 
gymnasium  with  a  good  library.  The 
city  is  celebrated  for  its  fruit,  particu- 
larly for  its  fine  cherries.  Many  Veche 
or  Wittenagemotes  were  held  here  in 
the  earlier  days  of  Russian  history. 
The  province  is  one  of  the  richest  in 
Russia  for  agricultural  produce  and 
manufactures. 

149  m.  Shuisko-Ivanofsko  Stat.  Buft*. 

At  Novki,  between  these  two  stats.,  a 
branch  line  runs  on  to  Shuya  and 
Ivanovo,  two  important  centres  of  the 
cotton  industry.  There  is  no  hotel  at 
either  of  those  places,  but  as  travellers 
will  only  go  there  on  business,  they 
will  easily  find  accommo<lation  at  the 
houses  of  the  Russian  millowners,  or 
in  those  of  the  English  master  spinners 
and  weavers. 

158  m.  Kovrof  Stat.,  small  town  on 
rt.  bank  of  the  Kliasma.     Pop.  4000. 

M  2 


OOQ 


Boute  8. — Nijitl  Novgorod . 


Sect.  I. 


Russia. 


Boute  8. — Nijni  Novgorod, 


223 


195  m.  Yiazniki  Stat.  Buff.  Town 
of  0000  Iiihab.  Trade  in  fj^rain  and 
celebrated  for  linen  luanufactures. 

225  m.  Gorohovets  Stat.  Buff.  Small 
town  on  Kliassma,  still  in  province  of 
Vladimir. 

XiJNi  XovGouoD  Stat. 
IZo/e/s.— These  are  decidedly  unin- 
vitinir,  and  the  travelUr  is  recom- 
mended to  go  through  the  fair  sys- 
tematically, in  order  to  return  by  the 
express  train,  which  leaves  at  night. 
Everything  may  be  seen  in  a  day,  and 
nothing  should  detain  him  except  the 
desire  of  making  some  further  pur- 
chases, or  of  seeing  something  of 
"life"  a  I'Asiatique  in  a  special 
quarter  of  the  town.  The  Hotel  de 
Kiissie,  or  Lobashelf,  near  the  Kremlin, 
is  eonsidere<l  the  best.  There  is  an 
hotel  kept  by  Nikita  Egoroff  at  the 
fair.  Sobolefs  hotel,  also  near  the  fair, 
combines  the  character  of  a  public 
bath  with  that  of  a  tolerable  inn,  fitted 
with  modern  appliances  for  comfort. 
But  unless  the  traveller  secure  rooms 
beforehand,  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
jSnd  shelter  at  any  price  during  the 
fair.  The  usual  charge  is  lis.  to  12«.  a 
night  for  a  room.  In  the  case  of  ladies, 
it  is  advisable  to  make  the  railway 
station  the  head-<piarters  of  the  ])arty 
for  the  day,  and  to  sally  out  from  it  in 
various  directions. 

Smoking  is  prohibited  at  Nijni, 
within  the  precincts  of  the  fair,  under 
a  fine  of  25  rs.,  which  will  be  inflicted 
by  the  Cossacks  and  police  on  duty. 

Drojkies  may  be  hired  for  Os.  to  V2s. 
for  the  day. 

There  is  generally  a  good  ballet  at 
the  theatre.  Fur  other  sights  and 
amusements  it  will  be  necessary  to 
consult  an  inhabitant  of  the  town. 

Nijni  Novgorod,  or  Low(ir  Nonjorod, 
ns  distinguished  from  the  Great  Nov- 
gorod on  the  Volkhof.  Pop.  40,000. 
Chief  town  of  province  of  same  name, 
and  seat  of  the  celebrated  fair,  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Volga  and 
Oka  rivers,  in  lat.  5G«  30'  N.  It  was 
founded  about  1222,  and  in  1237  was 
occupied  by  the  Tartars,  who  also 
sacked  it  twice  a  century  and  a  half 
later.   Nijni,  as  an  independent  princi- 


pality, was  absorbed  by  that  of  jNIoscow 
in  1418.  The  town  walls  were  built  in 
the  early  part  of  the  IGth  centy.  by  a 
Venetian  architect,  but  the  fortress  was 
originally  constructed  in  i:)72.  The  re- 
sidence of  the  governor  of  the  province, 
the  courts  of  hnv,  the  barmcks,  arsenal, 
and  telegraph  station,  are  within  the 
Kremlin,  where  there  is  also  a  monu- 
nu  nt  to  ]\Iinin  and  Pojan-^ki,  the  two 
patriots  who  liberated  their  country 
from  the  Poles  in  1G12,  Nijni  bein 
the   birthplace    of  the   former. 


ir 
O 


ChHrc]w.<.—l.  Cathedral  of  the  Trans- 
figuration. "Spaspreobrajenic,"  founded 
in  1221.  Miiiin  lies  buried  there.  2. 
Cati.edral  of  the  Archangel,  originally 
built  in  1222,  but  reconstructed  in 
1(;20.  A  ch.  in  the  lower  ])art  of  the 
t<)wn  is  sure  to  arrest  the  eye  on 
account  of  its  eccentric  colouring  and 
l»e('uliar  architecture.  This  is  the 
Church  of  the  Nativity  of  the  Holy 
Virgin  ( lloj<lestva),  built  by  a  Slroga- 
noff  in  1710.  There  are  51  churches 
of  the  Ilussian  communion,  and  8 
belonging  to  various  other  denomina- 
tions. 

Before  going  to  the  fair  the  traveller 
would  do  well  to  cross  over  to  the 
higher  part  of  the  town,  and  ascend, 
through  a  narrow  and  very  steep 
ravine,  to  Minin's  tower  {Bushuia 
Mi'nuia).  From  this  great  elevation 
the  most  picturesque  panorama  j)re- 
sents  itself  on  every  siile.  The  fair 
spreads  out  like  a  vast  town  of  shops, 
on  a  triangular  piece  of  ground  be- 
tween the  Oka  and  the  Volga,  which 
can  be  traced  liere  for  many  miles, 
with  its  steamers,  like  so  manv  straws, 
floating  swiftly  tlown  to  the  distant 
Casj)ian,  IGOO  miles  beyond.  The 
forest  of  masts  looks  like  a  floating 
town,  and  covers  the  surface  of  the 
broad  Oka  almost  completely,  making 
the  briilge  of  boats  look  sni)erfluons. 
The  quaint  barges,  coming  as  they  <lo 
from  the  most  distant  parts  of  the 
empire,  must  be  studied  from  below, 
where  they  will  be  seen  discharging 
or  taking  in  their  cargoes,  with  the 
assistance  of  an  army  of  ragged  Tartar 
labourers.  In  an  opposite  direction 
the  traveller  will  survey  with  interest 


I 


f 


the  low  arched  gates,  the  whitewashed 
towers,  and  crenellated  walls  of  the 
ancient  lu-emlin,  while  the  gay  roofs 
of  the  houses,  appearing  from  amidst 
the  thick  green  foliage  of  numerous 
gardens,  afford  both  beauty  and  di- 
versity to  the  landscape. 

Descending  from  the  tower,  the  tra- 
veller shouhl  drive  to  the  ''  Otkos  "  or 
terrace,  built  by  order  of  the  Emperor 
Nicholas,  from  which  one  of  the  most 
singular  and  extensive  views  in  Europe 
will  be  obtained.  As  far  as  the  eye 
can  reach  extends  a  vast  alluvial  plain, 
rich  with  harvest,  and  occasionally 
dotted  with  forests,  while  the  Volga, 
flowing  down  from  Tver,  looks  like  a 
broad  blue  riband  stretched  over  the 
country  from  one  extremity  of  the 
horizon  to  the  other.  Much  of  the 
j)lain  below  is  inundated  in  spring  by 
the  overflowing  of  the  Volga,  leaving 
a  fertile  deposit,  which  considerably 
enhances  the  value  of  the  land. 

The  picturesque  nuist  now  be  left  for 
the  practical.  The  realities  of  the  fair, 
including  clouds  of  fine  dust,  unpaved 
and  perijaps  muddy  streets,  a  heat 
sometimes  tropical,  a  male  population  of 
unattractive  a[)pearance  and  vmenticing 
fragrance,  will  be  found  in  strong  and 
unpleasant  contrast  to  the  scene  just 
viewed;  and  we  can  only  indemnify 
ourselves  for  the  discomfort  by  plung- 
imr  at  once  into  the  excitement  of 
examining  the  shops  and  wares,  the 
sellers  and  the  purchasers.  So  much 
has  been  written  al)out  the  Asiatic 
api>earance  of  this  mart  that  the  tra- 
veller will  feel  a  little  disappointment 
in  meeting  no  gorgeous  Asiatics,  no 
Chinamen,  no  wild-looking  savages, 
and  no  Esquimaux  ;  Persians,  Arme- 
nians, and  Tartars  being  a[)parently 
the  only  Asiatics  present,  and  o»'en 
those  in  no  very  great  numbers.  The 
men  from  Bukhara  or  Khiva  are  after 
all  in  dress  and  appearance  only  Tar- 
tars. But  it  is  not  so  much  the  types 
of  the  population  as  the  extent  and 
nature  of  the  trade  which  the  traveller 
should  observe,  for  he  here  witnesses 
one  of  those  rude,  ancient  forms  of 
buying  and  selling  which  the  introduc- 
tion of  railways,  and  the  establishment 
of  banks  and  credit,  must  very  soon 


render  obsolete.  The  iron  stored  in  the 
mile  of  shops  where  nothing  but  that 
metal  is  sold  has  been  brought  from 
Sil)eria  at  an  immense  expense  for  sale 
and  distribution,  perhaps  within  100 
miles  of  its  place  of  production.  Cus- 
tom obliges  the  producers  to  offer  their 
goods  at  established  markets,  at  cer- 
tain seasons  of  the  year,  involving  a 
great  loss  of  time  in  travelling,  and 
adding  to  the  price  of  the  article.  The 
sales  being  periodical  and  infrequent, 
dealers  are  forced  to  buy  larger  stocks 
than  they  otherwise  would ;  conse- 
quently they  require  12  months'  and 
sometimes  2  years'  credit,  which  is  of 
course  also  paid  by  the  consumer. 

Pail  ways  have,  however,  not  3'et  pre- 
judiced the  operations  of  the  fair,  be- 
cause they  do  not  extend  farther  E.  than 
Nijni,  and  trade  is  very  tenacious  of 
old  customs.  Authentic  records  attest 
that  mercantile  gatherings  were  held 
at  Nijni  so  early  as  136G;  and  tra- 
dition points  to  a  still  earlier  origin. 
Kazan,  while  an  indeiiendent  state,  had 
a  fair  of  its  own,  but  ilussian  merchants 
were  prohil)ited  from  resorting  to  it  by 
Jf)hn  the  Terrible.  Another  place  of 
gathering  was  allotted  to  them  on  the 
banks  of  the  Volga;  but  in  1041  a 
charter  to  a  monastery  dedicated  to 
St.  Macarius,  and  situated  71  m.  below 
Nijni,  removed  the  fair  to  that  place. 
The  monks  of  the  monastery  very 
cleverly  made  Nijni  a  place  of  religious 
as  well  as  commercial  resort,  and  levied 
taxes  on  the  trade  which  they  fostered. 
These  were  almost  uninterruptedly  in 
their  hands  until  1751,  when  the  fair 
became  the  property  of  the  State,  and 
its  revenues  were  farmed  for  about  150i!. 
In  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Paul  the 
farmer  of  the  duties  engaged  to  build  a 
new  bazaar,  and  to  pay  4500/.  a  year 
into  the  Exchequer.  Between  1097 
and  1790  the  trade  of  the  place  had 
increased  in  value  from  12.000/.  to 
4,500,000/.  In  1824  the  fair  was  re- 
moved from  the  low  site  which  it 
occupied  at  INIakarief  to  its  present 
position.  The  bazaar,  governor's  house, 
and  shops  were  erected  by  the  govern- 
ment, which  still  levies  about  8000/.  a 
year  to  cover  the  expenses  of  construc- 
tions. 


224 


Boiite  8. — Nljni  Novgorod  :  Fair. 


Sect.  I. 


Itussla. 


Boute  8. — Nij'nl  Novgorod  :  Fair. 


225 


The  governor's  house  is  tlie  centre  of 
the  fair ;  the  lower  floor  of  his  residence 
is  converted  into  a  bazaar  for  the  sale  of 
manufactured  goods  and  foncy  articles, 
principally   of  European   production, 
although  the  stalls  of  hardware  from 
Tiila,  of  silks  from  IVrsia,  of  precious 
stones    and    various    curiosities   from 
lUildiara  and  other  parts  of  Central 
Asia,  and  of  geological  specimens  and 
cut  stones  from   Siberia,  make   it  in 
reality  the  cosmopolitan  centre  of  the 
mart/    Travellers  will  be  attracted  by 
the  goods  oftlie  Tartar,  who  pretends  to 
owe  allegiance  to  the  Khan  of  Bukhara. 
Beware    of  talismans  and  turquoises 
that  appear  to  bt;   cheap ;  they  will 
j)robably  be  found  cheaper  and  more; 
genuine  at  St.  IVtersburg.    The  mala- 
chite and  lapis-lazuli  ornaments  and 
other   stones  from  Siberia   are  some- 
times goodinvestments  ;  but  in  buying 
lapis-lazuli  be  sure  to  rub  the  stone 
well  on  cloth,  or  some  other  material, 
to  see  if  there  are  no  white  spots  con- 
cealed with  a  preparation  of  wax  and 
indigo.     This  precaution  is  necessary 
even   at  St.   Petersburg.     There  is  a 
stall  held  by  a  Russian  for  the  sale  of 
ornaments  in  gold  and  silviT,  set  with 
Siberian  and  I'ersian  stones.     Curious 
belts  of  silver  may  be  purchased,  but 
not  without  long  bargaining.     It  is 
always  safe  to  otier  half  the  sum  first 
asked,  and  to  approach  gradually  and 
w  ith  caution  to  an  agreement.     Select, 
and  inquire  the  price  of,  all  the  articles 
you  intend  to  purchase  before  making 
any  otier,  for  the  seller,  once  ac(piainted 
with  yom*  system  of  bargaining,  in- 
creases his  demands  in  proportion  for 
any  other  articles  you  may  wish  to 
purcliase. 

There  is  a  very  good  restaurant 
under  the  governor's  house,  where  an 
excellent  dinner  may  be  obtained. 

A  boulevard  extends  from  behind 
the  oflicial  residence,  leading  to  the 
cathedral,  the  Tartar  mnsque,  and  the 
Annenian  church,  which  stand  in 
laudable,  tolerant  juxtai)Osition.  The 
shops  along  the  boulevard  are  occupied 
by  silversmiths,  drai)ers,  furriers,  and 
drysalters.  The  plate  and  silver  orna- 
ments are  very  curious  and  pretty. 
Travellers  generally    purchase    some 


small  articles  as  keepsakes.  Old  silver 
is  sometimes  to  be  picked  up ;  but  in 
all  these  transactions  it  is  necessary  to 
have  the  assistance  of  a  friend  who 
understands  the  language,  or  that  of 
an  honest  courier.     The  price  of  silver, 
however,  is  not  so  uncertain  as  that  of 
other  goods.     Tin;  hall-mark  is  repre- 
sented  by   the   number   84.     Behind 
these   shops   is    the  ''Chinese  row," 
easily  recognised  by  its  Chinese  archi- 
tecture.     The     tea-trade    is    not    so 
flourisliing  as  formerly,  since  the  re- 
moval of  tlu;  prohibition  to  import  sea- 
Ijorne  tea,  which  now  stocks  the  market. 
The  trade  is  now  in  a  transition  state, 
the  sea-borne  and  Ihe  land-carriage  tea 
alternately  triumphing.  Much  deix-nds 
upon  the  relative  quantities  ottered  for 
sale ;  the  prices  are  sent  down  one  year 
by  an  excessive  imi)ortatif)n,  and  they 
rise    the   next    from  a  short  supply; 
but  in  the  course  of  time  Canton  and 
water-carriage  will   prevail,   notwith- 
standing   the    ill-founded     prejudice 
against  that  description  of  tea.     The 
Itussians,  who  are  great  tea-drinkers, 
are  accustomed  to  the  higher  qualities 
of  tea  grown  in  the  N.  of  China  ;   but 
these  are  quite  as  easily  obtained  from 
Canton  as  from  Kiakhta,  and  the  sea- 
carriage   has   no    deteriorating    cfiect 
whatever.     The  Kiakhta  tea  itself  is 
brought  by  water  from  rerm  without 
injury.     There  are  some  kinds  of  tea, 
however,   which   scarcely   ever    enter 
into  the  English  trade,  viz.  yellow  and 
brick  tea,  the  former   of  a   delicious 
fragrance  and  very  pale,  but  injurious 
to  the  nerves  if  taken  iVeipienlly  ;   it  is 
handed  round  after  dinner  in  lieu  of 
cofiee.     The  brick  tea  is  consumed  by 
the  Kalnmcks   and   Kirghizes   of  the 
Steppe.  Specimensof  these  teas  should 
be  purchased    by  the  travelk-r.     The 
best  yellow  tea  is  about  35s.  per  pound, 
done  up  in  Chinese  boxes,  which  make 
very  pretty  presents. 

Tlie  bazaar  is  surrounded  by  a  small 
canal,  for  protection  against  tu*e,  con- 
flagrations being  of  frequent  occur- 
rence. The  ground  underneath  is 
intersected  by  sewers  or  cloaca)  of 
stone,  which  are  entered  by  the  small 
whitewashed  towers  so  freipiently 
seen.      These    vaultetl    passages    aro 


f 

^ 


i 


flushed  several  times  a  day  by  pumps, 

which  draw  the  water  from  the  adjoin- 

\  iug  rivers.     The  sanitary  precaution 

I  is  much  to  be  commended,  and  must 

have  cost  a  considerable  outlay. 

But  the  bazaar  built  by  the  Emperor 
Alexander  hiis  too  confined  a  space  for 
the   trade  of  Nijni.      The    t\iir    now 
L    (  extends  far  beyond,  to  the  very  banks 

''    ■  of  tlie  Volga  and  the  Oka,  with  its  rows 

\        of  shops,  its  restaurants,  and  even  its 
/        theatre.     The  '"  Siberian  Line  "  skirts 
/  the  Volga,  and  consists  of  innumerable 

warehouses  of  tea,  cotton,  iron,  rags, 
^  &c.     The  wharves  are  well  worthy  of 

inspection,  being    quite   10   miles    in 
i  length.     It  will  interest  the  traveller 

to  watch  the  stiu-dy  Tartar  labourers 
unloading  the  mediteval-looking  craft, 
laden  with  grain,  water-melons,  hides, 
wooden  boxes,  wine-skins  from  the 
Caucasus,  madder  and  cotton  from 
Bukhai-a,  and  with  almost  every  other 
description  of  merchandize  that  the 
earth  yields  or  industry  produces.  The 
Inige  floating  machines  for  towing  up 
vessels  are  fast  going  out  of  use  as  the 
number  of  steam-tugs  increases.  There 
an;  no  fewer  than  400  steamers  now  on 
the  Volga,  most  of  them  having  been 
built  in  England  and  in  Belgium. 
Some  have  been  brought  down  in 
pieces,  and  put  together ;  others  have 
been  skilfully  piloted  through  the 
canals  and  rivers,  which  combine  to 
form  an  uninterrupted  fluviatile  com- 
munication from  one  extremity  of  the 
empire  to  the  other.  It  is  an  interest- 
ing fact  that  the  first  vessel  of  war  ever 
built  in  Bussia  was  launched  at  Nijni 
by  a  company  of  merchants  from  Hol- 
stein,  wiio  obtained  permission  in  tlie 
17th  cenly.  to  open  a  trade  with  Persia 
and  India,  by  way  of  tlie  Caspian.  The 
vessel  was  called  the  Friedrich.  The 
travels  of  Olearius  were  in  connection 
with  this  undertaking. 

The  outskirts  of  the  f^iir  are  more 
interesting  than  its  centre  for  observa- 
tion and  study.  The  constant  succes- 
sion of  carts  in  long  strings  ;  the  crowds 
of  labourers  ;  the  knots  of  earnest-look- 
ing traders  with  long  beards ;  the  itine- 
rant vendors  of  liquid  refreshments  and 
white  rabbit-skins ;  the  greasy,  slovenly 
monk  collecting  the  kopecks  of  those 


who  fear  to  withhold  their  charity  lest 
their  transactions  be  influenced  by  the 
Evil  One  ;  the  frequent  beggars,  plead- 
ing for  the  most  part  that  they  have 
been  burnt  out,  and  showing  the  most 
dreadful-looking  sores  as  evidence  of 
their  veracity :— all  these  men  and 
things  attest  the  present  importance  of 
the  Fair  of  Nijni  and  the  immense 
business  which  is  transacted  there. 
Tiie  sales  and  purchases  represent  the 
value  of  more  than  IG  millions  sterling, 
which  pass  through  the  hands  of 
150,000  to  200,000  traders,  that  being 
the  average  number  of  those  who  as- 
semble daily  to  exchange  the  produce 
of  Europe  for  that  of  Asia.  The  bakers 
are  bound  to  make  daily  returns  of  the 
quantity  of  bread  which  they  sell,  and 
it  is  in  this  manner  that  a  rough  esti- 
mate of  the  daily  population  is  made. 

Great  quantities  of  dried  fish  are 
sold  at  Nijni.  The  annual  value  of 
the  sturgeon,  alone,  taken  in  the  Volga 
is  estimated  at  2i  millions  of  roubles, 
and  above  30,000  barrels  of  Caviar 
have  been  despatched  from  Astrakhan 
in  a  single  year. 

Two  other  fairs  are  held  at  Nijni 
Novgorod,  but  they  are  very  Httle 
visited  by  foreigners.  The  one,  held 
in  January,  on  the  ice,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Oka,  is  devoted  to  the  selling  and 
buying  of  wooden  wares,  such  as  toys 
and  boxes.  Great  numbers  come  in 
on  this  occasion  from  the  neighbour- 
ing villages.  In  January,  18G4,  the 
ice  on  which  the  booths  and  inns  were 
constructed  gave  way,  and  a  consider- 
able number  of  men,  women,  children, 
and  horses  miserably  perished  by 
drowning.  The  other  fair,  held  on  the 
Gth  July  (n.s.),  is  for  the  sale  of  horses. 

The  traveller  may  be  inclined  to 
enter  some  of  the  booths  devoted  to 
eating  and  drinking,  where  large 
masses  of  the  population  may  be  seen 
herded  together,  intent  on  some  of  the 
dishes  described  under  the  head  of 
"Cuisine  and  Restaurants;"  but  he 
will  probably  content  himself  with  the 
view  from  the  tower  and  the  terrace, 
with  a  rapid  drive  to  the  wharves  and 
warehouses,  and  a  saunter  in  the  ba- 
zaar, where  some  small  purchases  may 
I  be  effected. 


22G 


Boiite  8. — Murom. 


Sect.  I. 


Tiussia. 


Bonte  8. — Elafma — Kasimof. 


227 


The  more  inquisitive  traveller  will, 
however,  ask  for  the  "  Arnieiiian  Kit- 
chen" or  Restaurant,  wliere  he  will 
get  an  exceedingly  good  and  cheap 
dinner,  of  which  the  menu  will  be  :  — 
1,  Chihotma  or  soup ;  2,  Pillaio ;  3, 
ShishWi;  or  small  pieces  of  mutton 
deliciously  fried ;  4,  Lull-Kohal ;  and 
5,  Dolmay  meat  served  in  vine-leaves. 
A  very  sound  wine,  "  Chichir,"  com- 
pletes the  repast.  Excellent  horse- 
flesh is  to  be  had  at  Hk;  Tartar  lies- 
taurant  in  the  same  neighbourhood. 


EXCURSTOX  UP  THE  OKA  TO  MURO^I, 
ELAT3IA,   AND   KASIMOF. 

Steamers  leave  Nijni  3  times  a  week 
for  Elatma,  on  the  Oka,  one  of  the 
most  important  rivers  in  llussia  (its 
length  being  1400  v.),  performing  the 
voyage  up  stream  in  about  30  hrs., 
and  returning  to  Nijni  in  about  30  hrs. 
The  days  are  not  given  here  for  fear 
of  changes.  Inquire  at  the  oilices  of 
the  "Samolet  Sttam-ship  Company" 
at  Nijid.  Leaving  Nijni  Novgorod  at 
11  A.M.,  tlie  boat  will  be  at  daybreak 
abreast  of 

Pavlovo,  a  large  village,  of  which 
the  population  is  exclusively  occupied 
in  the  production  of  cutlery,  locks,  &c. 
The  scissors  and  knives  of  Favlovo  are 
superior  in  (juality  to  those  of  Tula. 
Its  locks,  varying  in  j)rice  from  2  cop. 
to  20  r.,  are  sold  over  llussia,  and 
partly  exported  to  Asia.  A  visit  to 
this  diminutive  Sheffield  will  prove  of 
great  interest  to  the  traveller  who  is 
studying  the  commercial  development 
of  Russia. 

Murom  will  be  reached  in  about  24 
hrs.  after  leaving  Nijni.  This  is  a 
famous  old  town  of  10,000  Inhab.  It 
is  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by  a 
Finnish  tribe,  which  bore  the  same 
name,  and  which  inhabited  the  l)anks 
of  the  Oka  in  the  9th  centy.  It  be- 
came the  seat  of  a  principality  in  the 
1 1th  centy.,  under  Gleb,  son  of  St.  Wla- 


dimir,  and  who  reigned  there  until  tho 
year  101 G.  The  principality  then  be- 
came sulyect  to  the  Princes  of  Cherni- 
goft',  Rostof,  and  Riazan,  and  in  1353 
to  the  principality  of  Wladimir.  At 
last  it  was  annexed  to  the  principality 
or  grand  duchy  of  Moscow.  It  has 
been  frequently  devastated — in  1087 
by  the  liolgars,  in  1006  by  Isiaslav, 
son  of  Wladimir  Monomachus,  and 
thrice  in  the  13th  centy.  by  the  Tar- 
tars ;  while  in  the  17th  centy.  entire 
villages  of  fishermen  were  rooted  out 
by  the  Poles.  The  old  Kremlin  walls 
were  taken  down  in  the  last  centy.  Of 
the  14  chm-ches  in  Miu'om  the  most 
remarkable  are  : — 1,  The  Cathedral  of 
the  Nativity,  built  about  1170,  on  tho 
hill  of  the  Yoevods,  alx)ve  the  Oka. 
The  founder,  I^rince  George  of  IVIurom, 
and  Prince  David,  with  his  consort 
lOujihro.sine  (a.i>.  1228),  are  buried 
within  it.  A  fair  is  held  round  this 
cathedral  on  the  2r)th  June  (O.S.'.  2, 
The  Ch.  of  Our  I.ady  of  Kazan,  built 
iu  the  reign  of  John  the  Terrible ; 
3,  The  Nicologorod  Ch.,  founded  in 
the  17th  centy. ;  4,  The  Ch.  of  the 
Iiesurrection,  built  about  KJoO  ;  and 
5,  The  Ch.  of  Cosmo  and  Uamian,  at- 
tributed to  the  14th  centy.*  There  are 
2  mo)iastcries  and  1  convent  at  I\Iurom : 
— 1,  Monastery  of  the  Transfiguration, 
known  to  have  existed  in  the  lltli 
centy.  The  son  of  AVladimir  ]Monoma- 
chus,  killed  in  lOUG,  was  originally 
buried  here,  but  his  remains  were  re- 
moved later  to  the  Cathedral  of  St.  So- 
pliia  in  Novgorod,  2,  ^Monastery  of 
the  Anniuwitition.  On  its  present  site 
stood  a  ch.  erected  in  the  12th  centy., 
and  which  was  restored  in  the  13th 
centy.  In  1553  John  the  Terrible, 
passing  through  ]Murom  on  his  way  to 
the  conquest  of  Kazan,  swore  on  tho 
tombs  of  the  Princes  of  Murom,  to 
build  here  a  monastery  in  the  event  of 
his  safe  return.  Its  foundations  wero 
accordingly  laid  in  1555,  and  in  1503 
the  monastery  and  its  ch.  were  com- 
pleted. The  holy  relics  of  Prince 
C(»iistantine  of  Murom,  and  of  his  sons 
^Michael  and  Theodore,  are  exhibited 

*  One  of  these  clmrclics  fell  in  with  a  cra^U 
early  in  186s,  but  will  be  restored. 


] 


in  a  silver  shrine.     The  Convent  of  the 
Trinity  was  founded  in  1042. 

Trade— Exen  iu  the  10th  and  11th 
cents.  Murom  was  a  place  of  great 
trade,  visited  by  the  Bolgars,  and  by 
merchants  from  Cheniigoti',  Smolensk, 
Kief,  Riazan,  and  even  by  Greek 
traders  from  the  Crimea.  Its  dense 
and  extensive  woods  were  famed  for 
their  honey,  and  for  the  beasts  of  the 
chase  that  dwelt  within  them.  They 
were  also  infested  by  bands  of  robbers, 
whose  deeds  are  still  told  in  nurtcry 
tales.  Tlie  position  of  IMurom,  on  the 
borders  of  a  nianulaeturing  distriet,  on 
one  side,  and  on  those  of  a  rich  agricul- 
tural zone  on  the  other,  has  greatly 
contributed  to  its  i)resent  i)rosperity. 
There  is  a  great  trade  at  jNIurom  in 
wheat,  tiax,  linseed,  and  tunber.  In 
1801  the  town  boasted  of  10  linen  manu- 
factories, which  produced  goods  of  the 
value  of  half  a  million  of  roubles.  It 
was  formerly  celebrated  for  its  leather, 
but  this  industry  is  now  on  the  de- 
cline. There  are  also  23  flour-mills 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town. 
Their  produce  is  principally  carried  to 
Rybinsk  on  the  Volga.  Markets  are 
held  on  Saturdays,  and  are  more  par- 
ticularly animated  in  winter,  when 
3000  to  5000  sledge-loads  of  corn  are 
brought  into  the  town  for  sale.  Im- 
mense quantities  of  flsh  are  caught  at 
Murom,  as  well  as  at  other  places  on 
the  Oka. 

The  Vijlsounslci  iron-works  are 
situated  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river  at  about  a  day's  journey  from 
3Iurom.  They  are  worked  by  an 
English  company,  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  a  resident  English  director. 
Large  quantities  of  cast  iron  and  rails 
are  produced  here,  the  ore  being  raised 
on  the  estate,  which  has  been  leased  to 
the  company  by  the  Crown  for  a  cer- 
tain number  of  years.  It  is  needless 
to  say  that  the  'English  or  American 
traveller,  wishing  to  see  something  of 
the  mineral  wealth  of  Russia,  will 
meet  with  the  greatest  attention  at 

Vyksa. 

After  passing  a  village  called  Dos- 
chaty,  of  which  there  is  nothing  to  be 
said,  the  steamer  will  reach  the  ut- 


most   point    at    which    the    Oka    is 
navigable,  except  by  flat  barges.   This 


is 


Elatma.  Pop.  7000.  It  stands  on 
the  1.  bank  of  the  river,  and  is  first 
mentioned  in  1381,  although  it  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  founded  by  the 
Mestchera  and  Mordva  tribes  (vide 
liiazan).  It  was  purchased  l)y  the 
principality  of  Moscow  from  its  Triuce, 
Alexander  Unkovitch,  of  the  Mest- 
chera tribe,  from  whom  are  probably 
descended  the  present  numerous 
Princes  Mcstchersky  of  Russia.  In 
the  centre  of  the  town  is  a  square, 
lx)rdered  by  an  ancient  ditch.  A  mo- 
nastery formerly  stood  there.  The 
town  carries  on  a  small  trade  in 
grain,  cattle,  tallow,  &c.  Leaving  the 
steamer  here,  the  traveller  must  en- 
gage a  peasant's  cart  and  ''  troika  "  to 
take  him  to 

Kasimof.  —  The  town  of  Kasimof 
(Pop.  11,000),  on  the  1.  bank  of  the 
Oka,  130  V.  E.S.E.  front  Riazan,  is  a 
place  of  very  great  trade,  being  in  the 
centre  of  the  water  communication 
between  Moscow  and  Nijni  Novgorod, 
and  on  the  high  road  from  Astrakhan 
to  Ixith  those  cities.  The  corn  of 
Tambt)f  and  Penza  is  ln'ought  there  iu 
large  quantities  for  distribution  over 
the  less  fertile  parts  of  the  provinces  of 
Riazan  and  Wladintir,  and  the  annual 
amouitt  of  business  done  is  estimated 
at  two  and  a  half  millions.  Tlie  in- 
habitants of  Kasimof  are  very  indus- 
trious, and  have  such  a  high  reputation 
for  honesty  that  most  of  the  waiters 
ill  the  hotels  at  St.  Petersburg  and 
Moscow  are  "  Kasimof  Tartars."  The 
principal  industry  of  the  town  is  the 
tanning  of  hides  and  the  dressing  of 
sheepskins.  The  bells  of  Kasimof 
are  also  much  loved  by  the  yamstcliiks 
or  por-tilions  throughout  Russia. 

The  town  is  remarkable  as  having 
been  the  seat  of  a  small  Tartar  king- 
dom which  existed  until  1007.  It  was 
given  by  Basil  the  Dark  to  Kasim,  a 
Tartar  who  emigrated  to  Russia  in 
1440,  and  became  the  ally  of  the  sove- 
reign of  ]\Ioscow. 

The    horde    of   Kasimof  di.l 

M  3 


good 


228 


Boide  9. — The  Volga. 


Sect.  I. 


Russia. 


Route  0. — Bijh Insh —  Yaroslaf. 


229 


\-i 


SGi-vice  during  the  wars  of  the  princes 

of  ^Moscow  with  tlic  Tartars,  Novgo- 

rodiaus,   Livonians,   and    Toles.      Its 

Tsars  assisted   John   the   Terrible  in 

the  capture  of  Kazan,  1552.    The  last 

Tartar  ruler  became  a  Christian  and 

died  in  1(JG7,  when  his  small  dominions 

were  incorporated  with  Russia.     Vvitr 

the  Great  caused  a  considerable  portion 

of  the  population  to   be  removed    to 

Voronej,  wlure  they  were  attached  to 

the  dockyards.    The  moxque,  supposed 

to  liave  "been  built  by  Kasim,  is  still 

extant,  but  tlie  m/j/an/,  iittributtd  to 

the  same  nge,  was  rebuilt  in  the  18th 

century.     There  is  a  maiisoJeitm  nenr 

tiie  mosque,  erected  by  Shall  Ali  in 

1555,  and  another  outside  the  town, 

built    in    1010,    by    the    Tsarevitch 

Orslan.     Inscriptions  prove  the  tombs 

within  it  to  be  those  of  ancient  Tsars 

of  Kasimof.    There  is  no  trace  of  their 

old  palace,  and  the  foundations  of  the 

palace  of  Seid  Burkhan,  seen  by  Pallas, 

liave  been  levelled  to  the  ground  by 

the    present    proprietor    of    the    soil. 

There  is  a  conirut  in  the  town,  but  the 

date  of  its  establishment  is  unknown. 

The  church  within  it  was  built  1715. 

Instead  of  returning  to  Nijni  Nov- 
gorod, travellers  can  post  from  Kasimof 
to  Riazan  (00  m.),  and  take  rail  there 
either  southwards  or  for  Moscow. 


ROUTE  9. 

VOLGA  :  TVER  TO  ASTRAKHAN. 

(For  journey  to  Tver  and  description 
of  the  town,  see  Rte.  G.) 


Ptolemy  and  other  ancient  geogra- 
phers had  little  accurate  knowledge 
respecting  the  Volga,  and  called  it 
the  Great  River.  Its  classical  name 
was  Rlia.  In  remote  times  it  was 
the  main  artery  of  comnumieation  be- 
tween Central  Asia  and  the  Black  Sea. 
The  Scythians  and  Sarmatians  were 
anciently  re|>uled  as  inhaljiting  its 
banks,  the  Huns,  Khazars.  and  Bolgars 
subsequently  formed  powerful  states 
on  it ;  but  the  Throne  of  Russia  having 
been  removed  to  Vladimir,  the  Rus- 
sians began  to  possess  themselves  of 
the  course  of  the  river.  Nijni  Nov- 
gorod was  founded  on  it  in  the  13tli 
cent.  The  Russian  provinces  suffered 
mucli  from  the  inioads  of  the  Tartars 
of  the  kingdom  of  Kazan.  The  latter 
became  the  tributaries  of  John  III., 
and  were  finally  incorporated  by  John 
the  Terrible,  who  also  seized  the  Tartar 
kingdom  of  Astrakhan,  and  thus  ob- 
tained possession  of  the  entu-e  cctursc 
of  the  Volga.  But  its  navigation  was 
long  rendered  unsafe  by  pii-ates.  All 
the  popular  legends  of  the  Volga  are 
connected  with  deeds  of  plunder  and 
bloodshed  by  the  i)opulation  along  its 
banks.  The  rebels  Stenka  Razin  and 
I'ugachef  were  the  last  to  disturb  its 
tranquillity,  and  it  is  now  a  peaceful 
highway  of  commerce,  uniting,  by 
means  of  its  affluents  and  with  the 
assistance  of  several  artificial  canals, 
the  Caspian  with  the  AVhite  Sea  and 
the  Baltic. 

The  Volga  rises  in  some  small  lakes 
about  47  m.  S.W.  of  Valdai.  At  Tver, 
where  it  first  becomes  navigable  by 
small  steamers,  it  acquires  a  breadth 
of  100  fathoms,  and  a  depth  of  alxnit 
IHt. 

1.  Boats  leave  Tver  daily  for  Ya- 
roslaf. The  following  towns  ore 
passed  : — 

Korehef,  57  m.  from  Tver. 

Kuliazin,  120  m.  from  Tver. 

Uc.LiTCH,  125  m.  from  Tver.  11,000 
Inhab. 

The  latter  is  a  town  of  considerable 
historical  interest.  The  steamer  stops 
here  some  hours.  It  is  supiwsed  to 
have  been  founded  alwut  a.d.  950.  It 
was  long  governed  by  princes  from 


h 


I 


<1 


Wladimir.  In  1237  the  inhabitants 
submitted  to  the  Tartars,  who  subse- 
quently ravaged  it  during  a  quan-el 
with  its  prince.  The  town  continued 
the  scene  of  an  incessant  internecine 
war  between  rival  princes,  imtil  John 
III.  annexed  it  to  Moscow.  On  the 
death  of  John  the  Terrible,  in  1584, 
the  Council  of  Boyars  persecuted  the 
family  of  his  last  consort,  to  w^honi  he 
was  married  in  1580.  She  was  exiled, 
with  her  son  Dimitry  (or  Demetrius), 
to  Uglitch,  where  the  young  prince 
was  assassinated  (vide  Cath.  of  As- 
sumption). Prince  Gustavus,  son  of 
Eric  Kuig  of  Sweden,  exiled  from  his 
country,  was  invited  to  Uglitch  by  the 
Tsar  Boris  Godunoff,  who  caused  him 
to  be  imprisoned  in  the  fortress  of  that 
town  in  IGll,  on  his  refusal  to  maiTy 
his  daughter.  He  was  later  removed 
to  Yaroslaf  and  then  to  Kashin,  where 
he  died.  On  the  death  of  Boris,  the 
town  was  treacherously  surrendered  to 
the  Poles  by  a  citizen,  when  20,000 
of  its  inhabitants  are  stated  to  have 
been  massacred  and  burnt  in  a  huge 
bonfire.  The  monasteries  on  that  occa- 
sion were  pillaged  of  all  their  treasures. 
Fires  and  inundations  in  the  18th  cent, 
complete  the  list  of  misfortunes  to  which 
the  town  has  been  a  prey. 

The  palace  of  young  Demetrius,  built 
in  14G2,  stands  in  the  principal  squai-e 
of  the  town.     It  has  been  restored. 

Myshl'in,  1G8  m.  from  Tver. 

Moloqa,  203  m.  from  Tver.  The 
Tikhviii  canal  system  begins  here. 

Rybinsk,  223  ni.  from  Tver,  Pop. 
10,500,  at  the  confiuence  of  the  Volga 
and  Sheksna.  Although  only  made  a 
town  in  1778,  Rybinsk  is  one  of  the 
most  important  commercial  centres  of 
the  empire,  especially  for  grain.  The 
INIariinsk  canal  system  begins  here. 
By  it  the  grain  and  tallow  from  the 
provinces  along  the  lower  course  of  the 
river,  are  carried  to  St.  Petersburg. 
The  go<)ds  are  transshipped  in  summer, 
at  Rybinsk,  into  smaller  vessels  for  the 
upper  part  of  the  Volga  and  the  several 
fiuvlatilc  systems,  emiiloying  100,000 
labourers.  4000  to  ,5000  vessels  arrive 
there  yearly,  with  cargoes  valued  at 
about  4,000,000?. ;  and  7000  to  8000 


leave  it  with  goods  to  the  amount  of 
5J  millions  sterling.  Great  detention 
is"  caused  by  the  accumulation  of  so 
much  shipping ;  and  although  the  grain 
reaches  Rybinsk  about  the  end  of  April 
or  the  beginning  of  May  (O.S.),  it  is 
seldom  delivered  at  St.  Petersburg 
before  June  or  July.  A  railway  is 
much  needed  to  accelerate  and  cheapen 
the  transport  of  such  immense  stores. 

There  are  two  hotels  at  Rybinsk, 
frequented  by  merchants.  Travellers 
will  do  well  to  stay  a  day  here,  in 
order  to  acquire  a  proper  appreciation 
of  the  immense  resources  of  the  Rus- 
sian empire. 

Romauoff-Borhorjlehsl:,  267  m.  from 
Tver.    24  m.  beyond  is  ;, 

Yaroslaf,  Pop.  32,000,  at  confluence 
of  Volga  and  Kotorosl,  founded  be- 
tween 1025  and  103G ;  burnt  by  the 
Tartars  in  1237 ;  pillaged  by  pirates  in 
1371 ;  and  constantly  embroiled  in  the 
wars  of  the  princes.  *  The  English  mer- 
chants had  a  factory  here  in  the  IGth 
centy.,  and  laid  the  foundation  of  the 
commercial  prosperity  of  the  town, 
which  deals  principally  in  grain  and 
iron.  There  is  a  large  and  celebrated 
linen  manufactoiT  here,  estab.  1722. 
IMniczek  (Mnishek)  Marina,  the  wife 
of  first  of  the  many  pretenders,  was 
killed  here  in  1G06.  Yaroslaf  sur- 
rendered to  the  Poles  in  1G08,  who 
were,  however,  shortly  after  driven  out. 
In  1G12  and  1G17  it  was  a  point  of 
gathering  for  the  patriots  under  Po- 
jarski  and  Minin.  Biren,  Duke  of 
Courland,  lived  here  in  exile  with  his 
family  between  1742  and  17G1,  and 
Prince  Peter  of  Oldenbui-g  was  born 
in  the  town. 

There  are  77  churches  in  Yaro- 
slaf. The  chief  of  these  is  the  Cath. 
of  the  Assumption,  originally  built  in 
1215.  The  present  edifice,  however, 
dates  from  164G.  The  military  stand- 
ards of  the  militia  raised  in  1812,  and 
1853-1856,  are  kept  in  this  church. 

The  best  hotel  is  in  Pastukhof  s 
house,  where  a  table-d'hote  is  kept. 
There  will  soon  be  a  railroad  hence  to 
Moscow. 

2.  There  are  no  places  of  importance 
between  Y'aroslaf  and 


230 


Boiite  9. — Kostroma. 


Sect.  I. 


Russia. 


Iloule  9. — Kazan, 


231 


KosTUOMA  (20,000  Inhab.),  340  m. 
from  Tver. 

Hotels:  "London"  and  "Kostroma." 

Kostroma  was  built  in  1152  by 
George,  surnamcd  Dolgoruki  (Longi- 
tharm'),  son  of  Vladimir  Monomaclius. 
In  1271  Novgorod  acknowlodged  tlie 
authority  of  the  Prince  of  Kostroma, 
which  then  became  the  capital  of 
Ihls^^ia  for  about  six  years.  Dimitry 
of  the  Don  fled  to  this  town  on  the 
invasion  of  Tokhtamysh  (1382).  The 
plague  iind  a  dreadful  famine,  in  1420 
and  1422,  reduced  the  i)opulntion,  on 
which  the  Tartars  had  already  inllieted 
much  sulfering.  The  town  submitte<l 
to  the  Polish  Pretender  in  1G08,  and 
was  oceui)ie(l  by  Lissofski.  The  inci- 
dent on  which  the  opem  of  *  Life  fur 
the  Tsar'  is  founded  took  jilace  near 
Kostroma,  where  the  estates  of  the 
Romanotf  family  were  situated.  A 
monument  stands  here,  erected  during 
the  reign  of  Nicholas,  to  the  memory 
of  Ivan  Susjinin,  the  peasant  who  saved 
the  Tsar.  Great  privileges  and  immu- 
nities were  bestowed  on  his  descend- 
ants, but  they  have  recently  been 
forfeited. 

The  Cathedral  of  the  Assumption  was 
constructed  in  1239,  and  has  under- 
gone but  little  alteration  since.  Its 
antiquity  is  corroborated  by  the  fact 
of  the  altars  within  it  being  directed 
towards  the  N.,  not  the  E.,  as  in  all 
other  churches  in  Russia ;  the  former 
being  the  direction  in  which  a  miracu- 
lous image  of  the  Virgin,  to  which  the 
ch.  is  dedicated,  appeared  to  Prince 
Basil  when  out  hunting.  It  is  a  most 
remarkable  monument  of  ancient  eccle- 
siastical architecture.  The  celebrated 
monastery  of  Ipatief  lies  outside  the 
town,  on  the  l)aidcs  of  the  Kostroma. 
It  was  founded  by  the  ancestors  of  the 
Tsar  Boris  Godimoii*  in  the  14th  centy. 
It  was  surrounded  by  a  wall  in  158(1. 
The  young  Tsar  Michael  took  refuge 
and  accepted  the  crown  in  it  a.d.  1G13. 
It  contains  many  holy  imnges  and  relics 
of  antiquity.  The  rooms  in  which 
INIichael  Romanoff  lived  are  hero 
shown.  The  furniture  and  stoves  are 
of  the  period.  A  pillar  of  stone  in  the 
centre  of  the  couii  records  the  several 


historical  events  with  which  this  mon- 
astery has  been  connected. 

There  are  several  manufactorit'S  at 
Kostroma,  and  an  extensive  steam 
factory  belonging  to  jMessrs.  Shipotf. 
The  Volga  lias  a  breadth  here  of  250 
fathoms.  The  high  road  to  Siberia 
passes  through  the  town. 

3.  KosTuo^rA  TO  NiJNrNovnonop. — 
A  slioiii  di>tanc(.'  from  Kostroma  is  a 
Tartar  village,  founded  in  the  early 
part  of  the  10th  centy.  by  Nogai  Tar- 
tars, who  still  retain  their  nationality 
strongly.  The  women  make  viry 
pretty  lace.     The  steamer  stops  at 

Pits,  a  small  town  founded  in  1-iOO. 
There  is  a  very  large  linen  manut\ictory 
here,  and  a  considerable  trade  in  gr.iin 
and  hardware  (in  the  shape  of  axes). 

Kiiiei<hnm,  405  m.  from  Tver,  is  a 
district  town  in  the  province  of  Kos- 
troma, with  a  Pop.  of  2500.  Cireat 
quantities  of  Ihun  are  manufactured 
by  the  ])easants  of  this  district.  One 
of  the  best  linen  manufactories  in 
Russia,  with  20  Jacquard  looms,  stands 
a  lew  nnles  beyond  the  town. 

Yurief-Fovoljski,  440  m,  from  Tver; 
The  Unja  river  falls  into  the  Volga 
o])posite  the  town.  Hence  to  Nijni- 
Novgorod  tlie  pojadation  along  the 
banks  of  the  Volga  are  engaged  in  shii>- 
Iniilding,  and  partly  in  si)iuning  Hax. 
Tiie  next  stations  before  Nijni  are 
Katidihi,  a  famous  place  for  leather  and 
the  skins  of  cats,  of  which  40,000  to 
50,000  are  annually  dressed  ;  Gonxhts, 
where  Alexaiuler  Nevski  died,  12G3; 
and  Balahhna,  frecpiently  inundated  in 
sj>ring,  where  a  fleet  intended  tor  the 
sea  of  Azof  was  built  in  1GI)5. 

For  NijNi-XovGuiioD,  set  description 
in  Rte.  8. 

4.  XiJNi-N(jVG0R0D  TO  Kazan. — At 
Nijni  the  traveller  will  embark  in  a 
larger  boat.  The  best  steamers  belong 
to  the  "  Volga  "  Comi)any,  but  those  of 
the  •'  Samolct  "  Company  are  very 
good. 

The  hanks  of  the  river  become  more 
picturesque  at  Nijni,  where  the  Volga 
has  a  breadth  of  two-thirds  of  a  mile. 

Maharief,  72  m.  from  Nijni.  The 
fair  was  formerlv  held  here. 


Vasil,  108  m.,  founded  1523. 

Kozmodemiansk,  140  m.  from  Kazan, 
Pop.  5000. 

Chebohsary,  one  of  the  prettiest 
situated  towns  on  the  Volga,  with  an 
ancient  monastery  and  leaning  tower. 

Svkijsk,  25  m. — Most  of  these  small 
towns  were  founded  by  John  the  Ter- 
rible during  his  expedition  to  Kazan. 

Kazan,  794  m.  from  Tver,  Pop. 
00,000.  Founded  in  13th  or  14th 
centy.  The  Tartar  kingdom  of  Kazan 
was  established  1438,  after  the  town 
had  been  j)artially  deserted  by  its 
original  Mongol  iidiabitants.  The 
Tartars  were  in  constant  conflict  with 
the  Russians  at  Nijni- Novgorod,  who, 
with  the  assistiince  of  the  Gmiid  Duke 
of  Moscow,  frequently  marched  upon 
Kazan,  but  without  any  signal  success, 
until  John  the  Terrible  took  it,  in 
1552,  with  an  army  of  150,000  men. 
The  Tartar  Tsar  Edigei  was  made 
prisoner,  and  all  his  troops  were  slain. 
Kazan  was  reduced  to  ashes  by  Puga- 
chef  in  1774.  In  1815  and  1842  it 
was  almost  entirely  burnt  down.  The 
town  stands  about  5  m.  from  the  banks 
of  the  river. 

Hotels:  "Odessa"  and  Resanofs. 
Best  dinners  at  Commonen's  restaurant 
in  Voskresensk-street. 

Si[fhts. — 1.  The  Kremlin,  attributed 
to  15th  centy.  2.  Within  its  walls  is 
a  cathedral,' built  1502.  3.  Sumbeki, 
a  jjyramidal  tower,  244  ft.  in  height, 
probably  built  in  reign  of  Empress 
Anne.  John  the  Terrible  caused  every 
building  within  the  Kremlin  to  be  de- 
stroyed, and  even  the  tombs  of  the 
Tartar  sovereigns  to  be  levelled  with 
the  ground.  It  is  therefore  doubt- 
ful that  this  tower  is  a  remnant  of 
Mongol  architecture.  4.  The  Bogoro- 
ditsky  Convent,  near  the  Krendin,  was 
built  1579,  to  receive  the  miraculous 
image  of  "  Our  Lady  of  Kazan,'"  dis- 
covered unscathed  in  the  ashes  of  a 
conflagration.  The  church,  which  now 
contains  this  venerated  image,  was 
completed  about  1810.  The  diamond 
crown  on  the  head  of  the  Virgin  was 
presented  by  Cath.  II.  5.  At  a  mile 
from  tlie  town  is  a  monument  over  the 
remuina  of  those  who  fell  at  the  siege  ] 


of  Kazan,  erected  1823.  0.  The  Ad- 
miralty was  founded,  in  1718,  by  Peter 
the  Great,  who  built  a  flotilla  there  for 
the  Volga  and  Caspian.  The  barge  in 
which  Catherine  made  lier  celebrated 
progress  down  the  Volga  is  shown 
here.  7.  The  Univeiisity,  founded 
1804,  consists  of  four  faculties — his- 
tory, physics,  jurisprudence,  and  medi- 
cine ;  frecjuented  by  about  450  students. 
I'rincipal  library,  00,000  vols.  State 
contribution,  1805,  33,0U0Z.  An  Eng- 
lish professor  is  attached  to  it. 

There  are  120  factories  of  difterent 
kinds  at  Kazan.  Soap  and  stearine 
works  are  the  most  important.  Next 
to  them  are  the  tanneries,  for  which 
the  town  is  widely  celebrated. 

The  steamer  stays  here  long  enough 
for  travellers  to  inspect  the  town,  which 
is  full  of  life  and  animation.  Tiie 
Tartar  population  (7000),  with  their 
quaint  costumes,  impart  an  Eastern 
appearance.  Education  is  very  mucdi 
developed  among  them,  a  school  being 
attached  to  every  mosque.  Travellers 
visiting  Nijni  should  not  fail  to  run 
down  to  Kazan,  even  if  they  are  un- 
able to  proceed  to  Astrakhan.  The 
various  races  inhabiting  the  banks  of 
the  Volga  aflbrd  a  most  interesting 
study.  The  most  curious  of  these  are 
the  Mordva,  the  Chuvashi,  and  the 
Cheremissi,  of  Finnish  and  Mongolian 
origin.  The  trip  only  occupies  24 
hours  there  and  29  hours  back. 

5.  Kazan  to  Simbirsk  and  Saratoff. 
— At  about  53  m.  below  Kazan,  the 
Kama  river,  1100  m.  in  length,  falls 
into  the  Volga,  which  is  here  4000 
fathoms  broad.  The  Kama  is  the 
great  artery  of  communication  with 
Siberia.  It  is  navigated  by  about 
1700  vessels,  besides  rafts,  which  give 
occupation  to  32,000  men.  The  goods 
brought  by  it  to  Nijni  are  valued  at 
2\  millions  sterling,  principally  salt 
from  Perm,  iron,  and  other  metals. 
(17<ZeRte.  25.) 

Simhirsh,  937  m.  from  Tver,  Pop. 
22,000,  founded  by  the  Boyar  Hitrovo, 
1048.  It  was  besieged  by  Stenka 
Razin  in  1070,  and  burnt.  Pugachef 
was  sent  here  in  an  iron  cage  by 
Suwarolf,  after  the  defeat  of  the  rebel 


232 


Bonfe  9. — Asfralhan. 


Sect.  I. 


l)v  Colonel  Miclielsor..  Tho  whole  of 
the  country  at  this  jmrt  of  the  Volga 
had  joined  the  rebellion,  and  Cathe- 
rine II.  had  great  fears  for  tho  safety 
of  her  capital.  In  18C4  the  whole  of 
the  town,  with  the  exception  of  a  very 
few  houses,  was  burnt  dov.n,  it  is 
supposed  by  an  incendiary.  There  is 
a  great  trade  in  grain  there. 

Stmropol,  founded  in  1737,  for  tho 
baptism  of  a  Calnuick  horde.  IIi'iv 
the  Volga  makes  a  sudden  bend  to  the 
E.,  and,  after  flowing  in  that  direction 
for  40  m.,  turns  to  the  S.,  and  then 
again  abruptly  to  the  W.,  forming  an 
arch  or  bow  100  m.  in  length.  I< early 
the  whole  of  the  country  enclosed 
within  this  l)end  was  granted  in  free- 
hold and  perpetuity  to  thr  Orloll' 
family,  and  is  now  in  the  possession  of 
Count  Orloft"  Davy  doll". 

Samara,  1087  m.  from  Tver.  Seat 
of  great  trade  in  grain  and  tallow. 
There  is  a  celebrated  establishment 
near  the  town  where  many  cures  are 
effected  by  means  of  Kiunyss  or  fer- 
mented mare's  milk.  The  mineral 
waters,  80  m.  S.E.  of  Samara,  are  in 
great  repute.    licst  hotel  is  Ushakoirs. 

Saratof,  Pop.  70,000.  Large  trade 
in  raw  produce.  The  Volga  is  alxait 
3  m.  wide,  opposite  the  town.  In 
spring  it  attains  a  width  of  about  15 
m.     Erfurt's  Hotel. 

G.  Saratoff  to  Astrakhan. — Ka- 
mysJdn,  100  m.  from  Saratoff,  was 
fortified,  in  1008,  by  Colonel  Thomas 
Baillie,  an  Englishman  in  the  Russian 
service.  The  fortifications  were  very 
useful  in  the  suppression  of  Cossack 
piracy  on  the  Volga.  Its  inhabitants, 
in  1700,  instigated  by  the  Don  Cos- 
sacks, rose  in  rebellion  against  the 
reforms  of  Peter,  and  murdered  all 
those  who  shaved  in  compliance  with 
the  Tsar's  orders.  In  the  vicinity  arc 
traces  of  a  canal,  which  was  commenced 
by  Devlet  Girey,  in  1550,  in  order  to 
unite  the  Volga  with  the  Don.  Peter 
the  Great  began  another  canal  lower 
down,  which  was  likewise  abandoned. 
Tiie  Volga  and  the  Don  are  still  the 
only  great  rivers  in  Russia  of  which 
the  waters  are  not  connected. 

T^aritsyii,  1G57  m.  from  Tver,  and 


244  from  Saratoff.  It  was  treacherously 
surrendered  to  Stenka  Razlu  in  1C70, 
and  again  phmdered  by  the  rebel 
Bulavin  in  1707.  Peter  the  Great 
visited  tho  town  in  1722,  and  con- 
firmed its  privileges;  on  which  occa- 
sion he  presented  the  inhabitants  with 
his  stick,  saying,  *•  Here  is  my  stick ; 
as  I  managed  my  friends  with  it,  so 
you  defend  yourselves  with  it  against 
your  enemies.'  Then  taking  oil  his 
cap,  and  likewise  giving  it,  he  said, 
''  As  no  one  dares  to  take  this  cap  off 
the  head  of  ]Majesty,  so  shall  no  one 
dare  to  turn  you  out  of  1'saritsyn.'* 
Both  relics  are  preserved  in  the  town- 
hall. 

There  is  a  railway  between  this  and 
Kalatch  on  the  Don  (vide  Rte.  18). 
The  mosquit(^s  arc  very  troublesome 
here,  worse  than  at  any  point  on  the 
river. 

Astrakhan,  Pop.  49,000,  19G2  m. 
from  Tver. 

Hutel :  The  only  hotel  is  the  "  Ros- 
sia. 

This  was  the  seat  of  a  Tartar  king- 
dom until  1557,  when  it  was  taken 
by  the  troops  of  John  the  Terrible, 
who  assumed  the  title  of  Tsar  of  As- 
trakhan. Selim,  the  Sultan  of  Turkey, 
marclied  agahist  it  in  1569,  but  was 
forced  to  retire.  The  inhabitants 
l>roke  out  into  rebellion  in  1C05,  in 
favour  of  the  first  Pretender.  They 
bound  the  archbishop  hand  and  foot, 
and  carried  him  ignominiously  to  Mos- 
cow. INIarina,  the  wife  of  the  false 
Dimitry,  seized  the  town  in  1(108,  at 
tho  head  of  a  largo  force  of  rebel 
Cossacks.  In  IGGO  the  Tartars  sur- 
rounded Astrakhan,  but  were  soon 
driven  away,  with  a  loss  of  10,000 
men.  The  Tsar  Alexis  directed  his 
attention  towards  the  commercial  im- 
portance of  the  town,  and  entered  into 
corresiX)ndence  with  the  Shah  of  Persia, 
with  a  view  to  the  establishment  of  a 
trade  in  silk  and  other  produce.  In 
that  reign  the  Duke  of  Ilolstein  ob- 
tained permission,  through  his  embassy 
(of  which  the  well-known  Olearius 
was  secretary),  to  trade  with  the 
countries  beyond  the  Casj^ian,  and  to 
build  ships  on  it.  The  rel:)ellion  of 
Stenka  Razhi,  in  1GG5,  checked   the 


Eussia-. 


Boute  9. — AstraJchan, 


233 


new  trade.  By  the  treachery  of  its 
defenders,  Astrakhan  was  seized  by 
him  in  1G70.  Its  voevod  and  arch- 
bishop were  thrown  down  a  precipice  ; 
the  latter  after  having  been  divested 
of  his  pontifical  robes, and  half-roasted. 
The  town  was  retaken  in  1071,  and 
Stenka  was  executed  and  (juartered  at 
Mo.scow.  Another  rebellion  broke  out 
in  1705,  but  was  speedilv  suppressed. 
In  1722  Peter  the  Great  came  to 
Astrakhan  with  a  large  force,  when  he 
took  Gilian,  Derbent,  P>akii,  and  other 
places  on  the  Caspian.  Companies 
were  soon  after  formed  to  trado  with 
Khiva,  Bukhara,  Persia,  and  India. 
In  1734  an  English  company  oljtained 
the  privilege  of  trading  on  the  Caspian, 
but  it  suftered  a  loss  of  80,000^.  on  the 
death  of  Nadir  Shah  of  l*ersia,  and 
renounced  the  undertaking.  After 
varying  success,  the  Caspian  trade  is 
now  in  a  flourishing  condition,  and 
employs  about  l.SOO  vessels.  The 
imports  in  ISGO  amounted  to  about 
500,0007.,  and  the  exports  to  800.000/. 
Fishing  is  very  largely  pursued  on  the 


Caspian.  A  small  flotilla  is  stationed 
on  it.  The  sidits  are  :  1.  The  Krem- 
lin, built  about  1582.  2.  The  Cath.  of 
the  Assumption,  constructed  1G98, 
containing  many  ecclesiastical  relics. 
i).  IMuseum.  4.  Gallery  of  portraits 
of  archbishops  of  Astrakhan.  5.  Ad- 
miralty, built  1722,  and  two  boats  used 
by  Peter  the  Great.     6.  Library. 

From  Astrakhan  the  enterprising 
traveller  may  take  steamer  to  Baku, 
and  return  by  way  of  Persia  and  the 
Caucasus  (vide  Rte.  20).  A  trip  to 
Astrabad  should  in  any  case  be  made. 

The  voyage  from  Tver  to  Nijni  by 
steamer  generally  occupies  2^  to  3 
days,  and  that  from  Xijni-Xovgorod  to 
Astraklian  G  days.  The  steamers  do 
not  go  on  during  the  night,  and  stop 
frequently  to  take  in  wood.  There  is 
every  comfort  on  board,  and  excellent 
provisions.  Some  of  the  skippers  speak 
English,  and  nearly  all  some  other 
European  language  l3esides  their  o^vn. 
The  fare  from  Tver  to  Nijni,  exclusive 
of  living,  is  about  3Z. ;  and  from  Nijni 
to  Astrakhan  about  51. 


% 


SECTION  II.— SOUTH  RUSSIA  AND  CEIMEA, 
CAUCASUS  AND  SIBERIA. 


INTKODUCTION. 

KOUTES  TO  ODESSA  AND  SOUTH  OF  RUSSIA. 

The  traveller  will  see  by  the  map  that  there  are  several  routes  to  Odessa, 
viz : — 

By  Water. — 1.  From  London  to  Odessa.  English  steamers  from  the 
London  Docks  (ai)ply  to  Messrs.  Smith,  Sundius,  and  Co.,  City),  and  the 
2)ackets  of  the  liiissian  Steam  Xavigation  Companj^  maintain  a  constant 
communication  with  Odessa  by  way  of  the  Mediterranean. 

2.  From  Constantinople  to  Odessa,  by  Paissian  Steam  Navigation  Com- 
]-)any's  packets,  leaving  every  week.  Fares,  28  rs.  and  18  rs.  Passage 
30  to  40  hrs. 

3.  From  Vienna  down  the  Danube  to  Galatz  in  Austrian  boats.  Travel- 
lers may  proceed  all  the  distance  to  Galatz  by  boat,  or  go  by  rail  from 
Vienna  to  Bazias,  and  take  tlie  steamer  which  left  Vienna  the  previous 
day.  The  sanie  ticket  and  lare  for  both  routes.  The  boats  of  the  Austrian 
and  Piussian  Companies  correspond,  so  that  travellers  are  not  delayed  at 
Galatz.  As  a  rule,  the  boats  of  the  liussian  Steam  Navigation  Company 
are  in  every  way  to  be  recommended. 


By  Land. — 1.  Berlin  or  Vienna  to  Odessa,  by  Lembcrg,  Czcrnowitz,  and 
Kishenef.     Pte.  10. 

2.  Berlin  or  Vienna  to  Odessa,  by  Lemberg,  Brody,  Volochisk  (on 
Russian  frontier).  Bar,  and  Balta  (railway  in  construction).     Pte.  11. 

3.  Piga  or  St.  Petersburg  to  Odessa,  by  DUnaburg,  Witebsk,  Orel,  and 
Kief.    Pte.  12. 

4.  Moscow  to  Odessa,  by  Tula,  Orel,  Kursk,  Kharkoff,  Poltava,  Kremen- 
chuk,  Elizavetgrad,  and  Balta.     Pte.  13. 

The  following  is  a  description  of  the  several  routes  by  land.  Before 
proceeding  by  any  of  them  travellers  should  inquire  how  far  the  railways 
in  construction  have  been  pushed  on  and  opened. 


ROUTES. 


-*o*~ 


[  rue  names  of  places  are  printed  in  italics  only  in  those  routes  where  the  places  are  described.] 


ROUTE  ,  TAfJE 

10.  ]Jerlin  or  Vienna  to  Odessa, 

by  Lcniberi?,  Czernowitz, 
and  Kiahenef     23G 

11.  Berlin  or  Vienna  to  Odessa, 

by  Lcmberg,  Brody,  Volo- 
c/i/.s7.-,  i>'«/-,  and  Balta       ..    237 

12.  Kiga    or    St.    Petersburg    to 

Odessa,  by  Diinaburg,  Wl- 
tebsl:,  Orel,  and  Kief. — 
tlie  Soutli  c.f  Kussia  . .      ..238 

13.  IMoseow  to  Odessa,  by   Tula, 

Orel,  Kursk,  Kharkoff,  Pol- 
tava, Kremenchuk,  EUza- 
vefgrad,  and  Haifa    ..      ..   253 

14.  Moscow  to  Voroncj,  by   Tlla- 

zan,  Jliajsk,  and  Kfclof. 
Branch  lines  to  Morshansk 
ami  Elets 2G4 

15.  St.   Petersburg,    IMoseow,   or 

Riga,  to  Taganrog  and 
Eostof  (Sea  of  Azof),  by 

Kharkof     270 

IG.  Odessa  to  the  Crimea  ovcr- 


PtOUTE  10. 

RERUN  OR  VIEXXA   TO   ODESSA,   BY 
LEM15ERG,    CZERNOWITZ,   AND    KISIIENEF. 

From  Vienna  by  rail  to  Lemberg 
and  Czernowitz  in  Austrian  (ialicia. 
(Vide  Handbook  for  Soulh  Gerniantj.) 
Omnibus  from  Czernowitz  to  Novo- 
selitsa  ;  thence  by  post  either  to 
Kishenef  or  Tiraspol,  according  to  con- 
dition of  the  railway,  which  will  be 
completed  between  Odessa  and  Kishe- 
nef in  1870. 

NovosELiTSA,  Iiussian  villngc  in 
prov.  of  Bessarabia,  on  frontier  of  Aus- 
tria, and  also  on  frontier  of  Moldavia, 
on  river  Pruth.  Pop.  2000.  Hotel  not 
as  good  as  the  one  at  Czernowitz, 
where  travellers  will  prefer  to  stop. 

This  village  is  sujiposed  to  have 
Ixicn  founded  in  the  IGthcenty.  by  the 
Cossacks,  who  came  imder  their  Het- 


319 


ROUTE  PAGE 

land,  by  Nikolaef  and 
Kherson      273 

17.  Odessa  to  the  Crimea  Ijy  sea  : 

Eiipatoria  to  Kertch,  and 
excursions  through  the 
Crimea       277 

18.  Kevtch   to    Tsaritsin   on    the 

Volga,  by  7?o8/o/       ..      ..   317 
10.  Hostoi' io  Nm-ocherkash         ..   318 

20.  London  to  Tijlis,  by  Constan- 

tinople— The  Caucasus     .. 

21.  Tiflis  to  Teheran,  by  Ararat 

and  Tahreez        323 

22.  Tiflis  to  Teheran,  by  Baku  or 

liCnkoran,  and  Besht  or 
Astrabad,  on  the  Caspian     325 

23.  Lenkoran     to     Tehera:i,    by 

land,  via  Besld  ..      ..   32G 

24.  London  to  Persia,  by  way  of 

St.  Petersburg 328 

25.  London    to    Pekin,    via    St. 

Petersburg,  Kiakhta,  and 
Mongolia 328 


man  Svirgofski  to  assist  the  AValla- 
chians  agninst  the  Turks.  There  is  a 
consideral)le  trade  at  Novoselitsa,  par- 
ticularly in  timber,  which,  after  being 
floated  down  the  Pruth,  is  carried  over- 
land to  the  Dniester.  In  18(jl  goods 
of  the  value  of  1  \  million  of  roubles 
were  imported  through  its  Custom- 
house. 

Travellers  must  here  obtain  an  order 
for  post-horses,  and  either  purchase  or 
hire  a  tarjintass,  the  vehicle  best  suited 
to  the  country.  The  charge  for  posting 
is  2i  cop.  i)er  verst  for  each  horse.  Tho 
distance  from  Novoselitsa  to  Kishenef 
is  27G  v.,  from  the  latter  tfnvn  to 
Tii-aspol  OG  v.,  and  thence  to  Odessa 
bv  railway,  now  open,  the  distance  is 
liO  v. 

The  towns  through  which  the  tra- 
veller will  pass  on  this  route  are : — 

BiELTSi,  120  V.  from  Kishenef.  Pop. 
7000,  on  river  Beut.    There  is  a  great 


Russia. 


Boute  11. — Beiiin  to  Odessa. 


237 


trade  here  in  cattle,  of  which  150,000 
head  are  annually  sold  for  Poland, 
Austria,  Moldavia,  Wallachia,  and 
Prussia.  It  comes  from  the  provinces 
of  Kherson,  Taurida,  Podolia,  Vol- 
hynia,  and  Kief.  There  is  also  a  con- 
siderable business  in  grain. 

Orgeiu.f,  41  V.  from  Kishenef. 
l*op.  5700.  On  left  bank  of  river 
Bent.  Until  1812  it  belonged  to  the 
Turks,  and  was  the  residence  ( f  the 
Sirdars  who  governed  the  northern 
part  of  the  present  province  of  Bess- 
ar.djia.  The  trade  of  the  town  is  small, 
but  a  considerable  amount  of  smug- 
gling is  carried  on  rid  Kishenef. 

Kishenef,  GO  v.  from  Tiraspol. 
I'op.  04,000.  Chief  town  of  Bess- 
arabia, on  river  Byka. 

A  small  town  existed  on  the  site  of 
Kishenef  so  far  Ijack  as  tho  0th  centy. 
It   is  mentioned  in    a  charter  dated 
1420,  but  in  the  17th  centy.  it  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  Tartars.     In  1812  it 
l»assed  from  INIoldavia  to  Russia.     At 
that  time  it  belonged  to  the  monastery 
of   the   Holy    Sepulchre.     A  Bussian 
metropolitan  resides  there  since  1813. 
It  is  the  centre  of  a  very  considerable 
trade  in  tallow,  wool,  wheat,  hides,  &c., 
carried  hence  to  Odessa  or  to  Austria 
via  Novoselitsa.     The  principal  mar- 
ket-days are  Mondays  and  Fridays.  In 
spring  large  quantities  of  cattle  are 
sold  in  the  market,  seldom  less  than 
3000  head,  at  about  20  roubles  apiece. 
The  iidiabitants  are  nmch  engaged  in 
cultivating  fruit,  vegetables,  and  the 
tol)acco-plant.      Large    quantities    of 
prunes,    grown    principally  by    I^id- 
garians,  are  produced  at  Kishenef.      if 
the  railway  is  not  open  so  far,  the  tra- 
veller will  have  to  post  through 

Bendery  (Pop.  22,000),  a  fortress 
town,  ,)Sh  v.  from  Kishenef,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Dniester.  The 
Cienoese  had  a  settlement  here  in  the 
12th  centy. ;  by  the  INIoldavians  it  was 
called  Tigin,  and  its  present  name  was 
given  by  the  Turks  in  tho  latter  part 
of  the  14th  centy. 

In  170i»,  after  the  battle  of  Poltava, 
Charles  XII.  established  his  camp 
here,  and,  calling  it  New  Stockholm, 
defended  himself  aganist  the  Turks 
until  1711. 


The  town  has  been  taken  by  tho 
Russians  3  times,  viz.  in  1770,  1789, 
and  in  1 80G.  It  was  only  annexed  to 
Russia  by  the  Treaty  of  Bucharest, 
1812.  The  fortress  is  separated  from 
the  town  by  a  square,  on  which  is  a 
mound  called  after  Suworof.  Tradition 
says  that  Charles  XII.  and  Mazeppa 
reconnoitred  the  country  beyond  the 
Dnieper  from  its  smnmit.  Near  the  E. 
angle  of  the  fortress  is  an  ancient 
castle,  on  the  Dniester.  There  is  a 
considerable  trade  in  wheat,  wine, 
wool,  cattle,  tallow,  and  particularly  in 
timber,  floated  down  the  Dniester. 
Large  quantities  of  goods  are  unloaded 
here  from  boats,  and  carried  overland 
to  Odessa  and  Jassy. 

Tiraspol,  110  v.  from  Odessa  in 
prov.  of  Kherson.  Pop.  10,000.  On 
left  bank  of  Dniester.  The  fortress  of 
Tiraspol  is  now  dismantled.  Trade 
inconsiderable.  Gardening  is  the  prin- 
cipal occupation  of  the  inhabitants. 
Hence  the  railwav  is  open  to 

Odessa.— F/(/e*Rte.  12. 


ROUTE  11. 

BERLIN  OR  VIENNA  TO  ODESSA,  BY  LEM- 
BERG, BRODY,  VOLOCHISK,  BAR,  AND 
BALTA. 

The  railway  from  Volochisk  to 
Balta  will  be  ready  in  1870.  Until  it 
is  completed  we  need  only  give  the 
following  short  sketch  of  the  route. 

VoLOeiiiSK,  townlet  in  prov.  of 
Volhynia,  on  river  Sbrutcha.  Pop. 
2500.     Small  trade  with  Austria. 

Bar,  a  small  town  in  prov.  of 
Podolia,  on  the  banks  of  the  Rov,  an 
affluent  of  the  Bug.  Pop.  8000.  In 
1452  this  town,  then  called  Rov,  was 
destroyed  by  the  Tartars.  Soon  after, 
Queen  Bona  Sforza,  consort  of  Sigis- 
niund  I.  of  Poland,  rebuilt  the  town, 
built  a  castle,  and  gave  both  the  town 
and  the  castle  the  present  name  of  Bar, 
after  Bari  in  Italy.    In  the  17th  centy. 


238 


Boute  1%—Polotsh 


Sect.  II. 


the  castle  was  restored  l^y  the  Tletnian 
Stanislaus  Kone9polski.  In  1G48,  and 
again  in  1G51,  it  was  taken  by  the 
('ossaoks,  but  in  1G72  it  fell  to  the 
Turks,  and  was  onlv  restored  to  the 
roles  in  1099.  The  Polish  Confedera- 
tion of  Bar  is  frequently  mentioned 
in  history  as  having  Ixien  fornu-d  in 
17G8,  three  years  after  which  Bar  was 
taken  by  the  Russians,  but,  having 
been  again  restored  to  Poland,  it 
formed  jiart  of  the  Voevodship  of  Po- 
dolia  until  the  i)artition  of  Poland  in 
1793,  when  it  was  transferred  to  Kussia. 
The  Jesuits  established  a  college  there 
in  1693,  and  the  building  is  now  de- 
voted to  the  purposes  of  a  school. 
Ther(>  are  3  chs.  and  a  monastery  of 
tlie  llusso-Greek  faith,  and  1  liomnn 
Catholic  ch.  Eleven  fairs  are  held 
during  the  year,  but  the  transactions 
are  not  considerable.  (For  journey 
from  Bar  to  Odessa  via  Balta  vide  next 
route.) 


IIOUTE  12. 

mCA  OR  ST.  I'ETKRSBURG  TO  ODESSA, 
15Y  DiJNABUUG,  WITEBSK,  OREL,  AND 
KIEF. 

For  journey  from  Riga  to  Diinaburg 
vide  Rle.  4. 

For  journey  from  St.  Petersburg  to 
Diinaburg  vide  lUe.  1. 

From  Diinaburg  the  journey  will  be 
continued  as  follows : — 

Drissa,  174  v.  from  Witebsk,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Drissa  with  the 
W.  Dvina.  Pop.  2000.  A  fortifica- 
tion existed  at  Drissa  in  the  14th 
centy.,  when  it  was  destroyed  by  the 
Prince  of  Polotsk.  In  loG")  Drissa 
was  occupied  by  the  Russians,  but 
Stephen  Batory  restored  it  to  I*oland, 
to  which  it  belonged  until  the  annexa- 
tion of  White  Russia  (or  tlie  i)resent 
provinces  of  Witebsk  and  Mohilef),  to 
Russia  Proper.  During  the  war  of 
1812,  the  Russian  General  Barclay  de 
Tolly  retreated  before  the  French  to 


Drissa,  and  established  an  entrenched 
camp  tiiere,  which  he  abandoned,  how- 
ever, on  the  18th  (30th)  July. 

There  is  a  large  trade  here  with 
Riga  in  flax  and  other  produce. 

Polotsk,  5th  stat.,  150  v.  from 
Diinaburg.  Pop.  12.000.  On  river 
Western  Dvina. 

History. — The  liistory  of  Polotsk  is 
that  of  the  whole  of  the  country  lying 
along  the  course  of  the  Dvina,  viz.  of  a 
considerable  part  of  White  Ru.ssia.  Its 
foundation  is  attributeil,  c>n  the  faith 
of  Iceland  Sagas,  to  the  1st  centy.  after 
Christ.  According  to  the  Chronicle 
of  Nestor,  Polotsk,  with  some  slight 
variations  in  the  name,  existed  prior  to 
the  arrival  of  the  Norman  jjrinces, 
Rurik,  Sineus,  and  Truvor.  The 
authentic  and  eventful  history  of  the 
town  begins  in  8G4,  when  I'olotsk  was 
one  of  the  j)rincipal  colonies  in  the 
country  of  the  Krevitchi.  At  his 
death  Truvor  gave  Polotsk  to  one  of 
his  followers,  and,  in  980,  chronicles 
speak  of  it  as  belonging  to  an  indei)en- 
dent  Prince,  Rogvolod,  a  Northman. 
The  ]>TOU(l  refusal  of  his  daughter 
liognedii  to  marry  Vladimir  Prince  of 
Novgorod  caused  the  downfall  of 
Polotsk,  for  Wladimir  came  there  with 
a  large  army,  and,  putting  Rogvolod 
and  his  sons  to  death,  carried  Rognetla 
away  as  his  wife. 

Annexed  to  the  jmncipality  of 
Kief,  when  Wladimir,  afterwards  cano- 
nized, succeeded  to  that  throne,  it 
became  the  portion  of  Isiaslaf,  son 
of  St.  AVladimir  l)y  Rogneda.  Its  ex- 
istence as  an  independent  princi- 
l)aHty  was  frecjuently  menaced  l>v 
tlie  otlier  descendants  of  Wladimir 
between  980  and  1129,  when  the; 
Prince  of  Kief  succeeded  in  taking 
possession  of  it.  But  the  town  and 
province  of  Polotsk  continuetl  to  have 
many  enemies— the  Pskovites,  the  JA- 
voiuan  knights,  and  the  Lithuanians, 
who  wrested  the  principality  from 
each  other  by  turns.  A  treaty  be- 
tween the  I'rince  of  Smolensk  and 
Riga  in  1228  gave  it  to  the  fiormer, 
ancl  in  1235  it  was  conquered  by  Rin- 
holdt,  a  Lithuanian  i)rince.  During 
the  internecine  war  that  followed  on 
the  death  of  Mindovgus,  Grand  Duke 


Russia. 


Boute  12.— Witebsk 


239 


of  Lithuania,  Polotsk  was  sold  to  the 
Church  of  Riga,  but  it  was  purchased 
agj\in  l)y  the  Lithuanians  in  1307.     Its 
])rivileges  were  then  gradually  assimi- 
lated to  those  of  other  provincial  towns 
in  Lithuania,   and  in  1498  the  law  of 
]Magdel>urg  superseded  the  Lithuanian 
ancfRussian  laws  under  which  Polotsk 
had  been   previously  governed.     The 
law  of  I^Iagdeburg   and   other   privi- 
leges of   Polotsk  were  confirmed   by 
successive  grand  dukes  of  Lithuania 
and  kings  of  Poland  between  1510  and 
1G34.     The   development  of  the  new 
institutions  was,  however,  frequently 
retarded  by  danger  from  without.     In 
1500  and  1502  the  Russians  advanced 
as  far  as  Polotsk,  laying   waste   the 
country    around    them.      Alexander, 
Grand  Duke  of  Lithuania,  hastened 
to  put  the  castle  in  a  state  of  defence, 
Init  a  truce  saved  the  town.      In  1507 
the  Russians  once  more  entered  the 
province  of  Polotsk,  and  again  with- 
drew with  a^  promise  to  leave  it  un- 
molested   in    future.      In   1511   they 
returned  and  spread  destruction  around 
them,  and  in  1515  and  1518  they  laid 
siege  to  the  town,  but  without  success, 
for'^the  fortifications  ha<l  l)cen  well  re- 
jiaircd.     John  the  Terriljle.  however, 
having  come  to  an  open  rupture  with 
Lithuania,  advanced  in   person  with 
his  army,  a.d.  15G3,  and  took  the  town 
after  a   siege   of  two  weeks,   during 
which  many  as.saults  were  made.  The 
fall  of  I'olotsk  was  celebrated  all  over 
Moscovy  with  the  ringing  of  lx?lls,  and 
for  17  vears  it  was  governed  by  Rus- 
sian Voevods  ;  but  in  1579  King  Ste- 
phen Batory  retook  it,  because  "the 
Voevods  were  Ijad,  and  admired  the 
fair  sex."     There  was  great  moiu-ning 
at  iMf)SCow  in  consequence,  and  John 
the  Terrible,  in  an    impulse  of  rage, 
caused   all    the  troops  that  had  re- 
turned from  Polotsk,  or  that  had  been 
made  prisoners  and  released,  to  be  put 

to  death. 

Batory  had  the  walls  and  towers  re- 
paired, confirmed  the  ancient  privi- 
leges of  the  inhabitants,  the  Grand 
Duke  of  Muscovy  all  the  while  at- 
tempting to  regain  the  town  by  peace- 
ful negotiations,  for  which  purpose  he 
oven  invoked  the  aid  of  England. 


The  death  of  John  the  Terrible  and 
the  troubles  that  followed  enabled  the 
Poles  to  retain  peaceful  possession  of 
the  unhappv  town,  which  was  about 
this  time  visited  with  pestilence  and 
famine,  and  nearly  burned  to  the 
ground.  After  many  internal  dissen- 
sions of  a  religious  character  the  town 
fell  again,  in  1654,  to  the  Russians, 
who  held  it  until  1GG7,  when  they  re- 
stored it  to  Poland  under  the  Treaty  of 
Andrussv;  and  it  was  not  until  the 
first  partition  of  Poland,  in  1772,  that 
Polotsk  and  the  rest  of  White  Russia 
were  finally  incorporated  with  Russia 

Proi)er. 

In  1812  I^Iurat  and  Ney  established 
tliemselves  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Polotsk,  and,  when  they  marched  on 
Witeb.sk,  Oudinot  was  left  in  their 
place. 

Witebsk,  4th  Stat.,  93  v.  from 
Polotsk,  and  243  v.  from  Diinaburg. 
Pop.  28,000. 

Hotel:  ''Brosi,"  with  a  restaurant 
below,  rooms  tolerable. 

History.  —  Situated  on  both  banks 
of    the    Western   Dvina,  and  on   the 
Vitba  rivulet  falling  into  it,  Witebsk 
appears  to  have  been  founded  before 
the  year  1021.     In   1101  it  was   the 
seat  of  an  independent    principality, 
which    existed    until   the    year   1320, 
when  it  was  annexed  to  Lithuania,  on 
the  deatli   of  Prince    Yaroslaf,    who 
had  given  his  daughter  in  marriage  to 
Olgerd  Prince  of  Lithuania.    Cusimir 
King  of  Poland  gave  the  town  many 
privileges   in   the    latter   part   of  the 
15tli  centv.     In  1562  Prince  Kuibski, 
a  Russian' Vocvod,  who  later  incurred 
the    wrath  of  John  the  Terrible  and 
fled  to  Lithuania,  burnt  the  suburbs 
of  Witebsk,   and,  in  1563  and  1569, 
the  Russians  took  the  to>vn  and  set  it 

on  fire. 

The  Poles  having  subsequently  re- 
gained it,  Sigismund  III.  compensated 
the  inhabitants  for  their  losses  by  es- 
tablishing a  fair,  and  giving  to  the 
town  his  castle  of  Lukishki,  of  which 
no  traces  remain.  In  1616  Witebsk  was 
again  burnt  down  by  the  Russians  and 
Cossacks.  Seven  years  later  the  in- 
habitants rose  and  put  to  death  Bishop 
Kun^ewicz,  who  attemptc d  to  introduc<5 


240 


Bouic  12. — SmolensJc. 


Sect.  II. 


the  Uuiatc  faith,  for  which  oflcnco  Ihc 
ancient  privileges  of  Witebsk  were  with- 
drawn for  a  lime,  but  restored  in  1G41 
by  Wladislaus  IV.  The  Ihissians,  un- 
der Sheremetieif,  a^nin  took  Wite])j^k 
in  1054,  after  a  sicgr  of  :U  niontlis' 
duration,  and  hehl  it  until  1UG7,  when, 
together  with  I'olotsk,  it  was  restored 
to  liithuania  under  the  Treaty  of 
Andrussy.  Dnrinr^  the  wnrs  between 
l*eter  I.  and  Charles  XII.,  Witebsk, 
wliieh  had  sided  with  the  Swedes, 
and  had  even  sent  them  a  subsidy  of 
7000  thalers,  was  burnt  to  the  j^round 
by  Cossacks  and  Culnmcks.  by  the 
order  of  Peter.  It  was  tinally  incor- 
porated with  Jiussiain  1772. 

In  1812,  AVitebsk,  deserted  by  its  in- 
habitants, was  occn})ied  by  the  French 
armv.  No  one  was  to  be  seen  in  it  ])ut  a 
few  Jews  and  Jesuit's.  They  could  give 
no  information.  The  French  followed 
in  pursuit  for  G  leagues,  tlirough  a 
deep  and  burning  sand.  At  last  night 
put  an  end  to  their  progress.  The 
soldiers,  parching  with  thirst,  could 
get  only  muddy  water  to  queiicli  it ; 
and  '.vhile  they  were  busy  in  prociuing 
it,  Nnpoleon  held  a  council,  the  result 
of  which  was  that  it  was  useless  to 
pursue  the  liussians  any  further  at 
present,  and  that  it  was  advisable 
to  halt  where  they  were  on  the  confines 
of  Old  liussia.  As  soon  as  the  em- 
peror had  formed  this  resolution  he 
returned  to  Witebsk  with  his  guards. 
On  entering  his  headquarters  in  that 
city  on  the  28th  July,  he  took  oft' his 
sword,  and,  layhig  it  down  on  the  nia])s 
which  covered  his  table,  "  Here,"  said 
he,  "  I  halt.  I  want  to  reconnoitre,  to 
rally,  to  rest  my  army,  and  to  organize 
Poland.  The  cjimpaign  of  1812  is 
over;  ti.at  of  181o  will  do  the  rest." 
Napoleon  left  Witebsk  on  the  13th 
August,  after  halting  there  a  fortnight, 
and  on  the  ITith  the  nrmy  \tas  in  sight 
of  Krasnoi,  where  it  defe;ited  the  corps 
of  Xeverovski. 

Having  gone  through  so  many  cala- 
mities, it  is  not  surprising  that  Witebsk 
should  have  no  monuments  of  antiquity 
to  show  the  traveller.  Its  principal 
buildings  are — the  Palace  where  the 
Grand  l)uke  Constantino  of  Ilu.s.sia, 
brother  of  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  died 


in  1831 ;  the  Nobility  Assembly  House, 
the  Gymnasium,  and  the  Cathedrals  of 
St.  Nicholas  and  of  the  Assumption. 
It  has  also  a  theatre,  and  an  hospital 
with  ICO  beds.  There  is  a  consider- 
able trade  with  liiga  in  corn,  flax, 
hemp,  Uibacco,  sugar,  and  timber. 
The  countiy  bt;yond  Witebsk  is  very 
pretty. 

Until  the  rly.  in  cour.-o  of  construc- 
tion is  open  t\)r  tratlic,  travellers  will 
have  to  post  hence  to  ( )erl. 

Smolensk,  120  v.  from  Witebsk.  On 
riv.  Dniepr.    Pop.  23.000. 

ILAcl :  Patchinsky. 

History. — Nestor  calls  Smolensk  the 
town  of  the  Krivitchi,  and  alludes  to 
its  existence  prior  to  the  Xonnan  con- 
(jucst  of  Pu.'^sia.  The  Vjiriague  Prince 
Oleg  took  jMjssession  f)f  it  in  882,  nnd 
until  the  year  10.")4  it  remained  an- 
nexed to  theprincipality  of  Kief,  when 
it  fell  to  the  share  of  Yiacheslaf,  son 
of  Yaroslaf  I.  The  "province"  of 
Snioh  n.>^k  at  that  time  comju-iscd  the 
whole  of  the  i)resent  })rovince  of  Smo- 
hn>k  and  partof  tlu».  ]»resent  provinces 
of  Witebsk,  Pskof,  ^loscow,  and  Ka- 
luga. After  passing  under  tlie  govern- 
ment of  various  princes  it  became  the 
appanage  of  Vladimir  Monomachus, 
who  constructed  in  the  town  of  Smo- 
len.^k  the  Cathedralcif  the  Assumption, 
which,  although  destrovt  d  by  the  Poles 
in  ihe  17th  centy.,  ha.s  .'^ince  been  re- 
stored in  its  original  form,  and  still 
contains  the  image  of  the  Holy  Virgin, 
given  to  Vladimir  Monomachus  by  his 
mother,  daughter  of  the  ICnqieror  of 
Byziuitium.  When  Vladimir  suc- 
ceeded in  his  tmn  to  the  throne  of 
Kief,  Smolensk  was  governed  by  his 
2  sons,  llostislaf,  .son  of  the  next 
Prince  of  Kief,  held  Smolensk  for  34 
years  as  a  vassal,  and  was  drawn  into 
all  the  wars  wliich  the  Princes  of 
luef,  Chernigof,  jmd  Novgorod  waged 
against  each  other. 

Mention  is  made  in  old  chronicles 
of  the  magnificent  reception  given 
to  liostislaf  when  as  Prince  of  Kief 
he  passed  through  Smolensk  on  his 
way  to  Novgorod.  His  son  Robert 
succeeded  liim  at  Smolensk,  and 
spent  so  much  money  in  building 
churches     and     establishing    ccclesi- 


Riissia. 


Boide  12. — Smolensk. 


241 


astical  schools  that  the  expenses 
of  his  funeral  had  to  be  paid  by  the 
inhabiUmts.  Many  Veche  or  Wit- 
tcnagemotes  were  held  about  this 
time  at  Smolensk,  as  in  other  towns  of 
liussia.  The  whole  of  the  12th  centy. 
passed  in  constiint  wars  between  the 
various  princes.  In  the  next  centy. 
Smolensk  was  menaced  by  a  new  foe — 
the  Lithuanians,  who,  in  128,5,  ad- 
vanced up  to  Smolensk,  and  committed 
great  ravages,  but  without  taking  the 
town,  which  had  by  this  time  grown 
very  wealthy  from  its  trade  with  the 
Baltic  provinces  and  the  Hauseatic 
League.  The  Germans  even  made  a 
commercial  treaty  with  Smolensk  as 
early  as  1229.  A  mutual  right  of  trade 
and  a  free  passage  from  Smolensk  to 
Gothland  in  the  Baltic  was  thereby 
secured,  subject  to  the  payment  of  cer- 
tain dues.  This  convention  was  con- 
firmed in  1284  and  1330.  The  size  of 
the  town  may  be  estimated  from  the 
fact  that  in  1231  it  lost  no  fewer  than 
32,000  inhab.  from  the  plague. 

In  1237  the  Tartars  advanced  on  Smo- 
lensk, but  it  was  saved,  according  to  a 
legend,  by  a  lloman  named  ]Mercurius, 
who  went  into  the  camp  of  the  in- 
vaders and  killed  the  giant  on  whom 
they  most  relied  for  success  in  their 
cnterjirise.  Having  been  killed  by  the 
Tartars  while  asleep  from  fatigue,  Mer- 
curius  was  recognised  by  the  Church 
as  a  martyr,  and  to  this  day  the  helmet 
and  greaves  which  the  hero  wore  during 
the  fight  are  sacredly  preserved  in  the 
catheilral.  The  Lithuanians  now 
made  several  attempts  to  possess  them- 
selves of  Smolensk,  which  compelled 
the  inhabitants  in  1275  to  seek  tlie 
assistance  of  the  Tartars,  who  again  in 
1340  marched  upon  the  city  in  con- 
junction with  the  forces  of  the  Princes 
of  Moscow  and  Iiiazan,  but  the  expe- 
dition failed,  owing,  it  is  supposed,  to 
the  Tartar  chief  having  been  bribed  by 
the  besieged.  Continual  wars  with 
Moscovy  and  Lithuania,  and  another 
dreadful  phigue,  soon  after  weakened 
the  principality,  and  it  was  at  last  taken 
by  the  Lithuanians  in  1305.  In  1401, 
however,  Oleg,  Prince  of  Riazan, 
agreed  to  assist  his  father-in-law, 
George,  in  the  recovery  of  the  throne 


of  Smolensk,  and,  having  appeared 
before  the  town  with  a  large  force,  the 
inhabitants  opened  their  gates.  Prince 
George  immediately  put  to  death  all 
the  Boyars  who  had  espoused  the  cause 
of  the  Lithuanians.  Vitovt,  Prince  of 
Lithuania,  attacked  Prince  George  in 
1403,  and  after  taking  Viasma,  in 
order  to  cut  oft'  his  communications 
with  JN^oscow,  he  laid  siege  to  Smo- 
lensk during  a  period  of  seven  weeks, 
but  without  success.  Next  year 
he  came  again,  while  George  was  at 
Moscow  soliciting  the  aid  of  its  prince, 
and  reduced  the  town  by  famine 
on  the  2Gth  June,  1404.  Vitovt  gave 
the  conquered  town  many  privileges, 
but  its  ruin  was  so  complete  that 
a  most  dreadful  famine  ensued, 
during  which  the  inhabitants  were 
reduced  to  the  condition  of  cannibal,-, 
and  "dogs  were  seen  in  the  streets 
feeding  olf  human  bones." 

King    Casimir    of    Poland   visited 
Smolensk  about  1453,  and  confirmed 
all  its  fonuer  privileges.    A  truce  with 
Moscow  in  1493,  and  the  marriage  of 
Alexander,  Grand  Duke  or  Prince  of 
Lithuania,  with  Helen  daughter  of  John 
III.  of  Moscow,  did  not  long  preserve 
Smolensk  from  further  disasters.    Al- 
though the  free  exercise  of  the  Greek 
religion  had  been  guamnteed  to  Helen, 
yet  Joseph,  Bishop  of  Smolensk,  soon 
begaii  openly  to  preach  the  supremacy 
of  the  Pope  and  to  interfere  with  the 
religious    observances    of    the    Grand 
Duchess.      A    cHspute    about    boun- 
daries gave  the  Moscovites  a  pretext 
for  attack,  and  the  Lithuanians  were 
routed  on  the  14th  July  1500  at  Doro- 
gobush  (8G  V.   from    Smolensk),   but 
Prince  Alexander   had  put  the  town 
into  such  an  excellent  state  of  defence 
that  the  Moscovites  were   forced   to 
withdraw,  after  suftering  much  from 
the  want  of   provisions.      A  regular 
peace  was  not  concluded  until   1503. 
This  had  scarcely  expired  before  war 
broke  out  afresh  between  the  Lithua- 
nians and  Moscovites,  at  the  instiga- 
tion of  Glinsky,  a  Lithuanian   noble 
who  went  over  to  the  Russians.     After 
mimy  encounters   and   another  truce, 
John  the  Terrible  resolved  in  council 
to  tight  the  Lithuanians  "as  long  as 


242 


Boufe  12.— 'Smolensk, 


Sect.  II. 


his  \\0Y6Q  would  carry  him  or  his  sword 
cut,"  and  in  1513  he  advanced  on 
Smolensk  with  a  contingent  from 
Ptjkof,  which  was  so  imaccustomed  to 
fight  that  ju.st  before  the  assault  their 
courage  liad  to  be  sustained  l)y  the 
distribution  of  3  casks  of  mead  and  3 
of  beer. 

A  first  .and  a  second  campaign  proved 
unsuccessful,  but  a  third  siege,  under- 
taken in  June  1514,  with  sui)crior 
forces,  i)rovided  with  cannon,  and  with 
the  assistance  of  mercenaries  from 
Bohemia  and  Germany,  compelled  the 
citizens  to  surrender. 

The  loss  of  Smolensk  was  keenly 
felt  by  the  Poles  and  Lithuanians,  and 
during  the  whole  of  the  KJth  centy. 
they  endeavoured  to  regain  possessi(m 
of  it.  Even  tlie  Khan  <»f  Tartary  was 
called  in  bvKing  Sigismund  to  induce 
the  Iiussians  to  abandon  it,  but  in 
vnin.  Stephen  Batory  tried  tf)  take  it 
by  force  of  arms,  but  failed,  for  tlie 
castle  and  fortifications  had  been  care- 
fully relmilt.  In  1590  these  were 
again  strengtliened  under  the  super- 
intendence of  Boris  Godunof,  after- 
wards usurper  of  the  throne  of  Mos- 
cow. He  built  a  new  wall  of  stone 
with  30  towers  and  0  gates.  The 
ancient  trade  of  the  town  was  renewed, 
but  famine  and  epidemics  continued  to 
succeed  each  other. 

The  17th  centy.  was  ushered  in  by 
further  troubles.  On  the  death  of  13f)ris 
Godunof,  Smolensk  surrendered  to  the 
false  Demetrius,  who  gave  it  with  the 
wlioleoftlie  province  to  George  (Yury) 
ISInLshek,  Voe'vod  of  Sandomir,  his 
future  father-in-law. 

On  the  21st  April,  lOOG,  the  citizens 
went  out  with  church  ])anners,  and 
with  bread,  salt,  and  sable  skins,  to 
meet  their  "  Tsaritsa"  IManna,  daugh- 
ter of  Mnishek.  But  their  loyalty  was 
not  of  long  duration.  The  downfall  of 
the  Pretender  was  the  signal  for  their 
marching  against  the  Poles,  then  in 
Moscow.  Between  1008  and  1011 
Smolensk  held  out  against  overwhelm- 
ing Polish  forces,  and  at  last  had  to 
sustain  a  siege  of  more  than  20  months' 
duration  ;  nor  would  the  old  town  have 
yielded,  liad  not  tin*  weakness  of  one 
of  its  walls  l>een  betraved  to  the  Poles 


by  a  citizen.  On  the  3rd  July,  1011, 
that  part  of  the  wall  was  battered 
down,  and  the  Poles  broke  into  the 
town,  killing  an  immen.se  number  of 
the  inhabitants.  As  jnany  ns  72.000 
persons  perished  on  the  l*olish  and 
Russian  sides  during  that  memorable 
siege.  The  Boyar  Siiein,  who  had  so 
manfully  conducted  the  defence  of  the 
city,  was  put  in  irons,  torture<l,  and 
then  sent  to  Lithuania  with  other  im- 
j)ortant  prisoners.  Tlie  Poles  now 
hnstened  to  establi.sh  themselves  and 
their  religion  firmly  in  the  con(jU<red 
province.  They  founded  monasteries 
and  Poman  Catholic  churches,  anil 
gave  the  Jesuits  and  Bernardines  full 
liberty  of  action.  ImjK)rtant  charters 
Were  at  the  same  time  granted  to  the 
citizens.  The  new  Tsar,  INIiciiael,  was 
forced  by  circumstances  to  acknow- 
ledge the  annexation  of  Smolensk  and 
other  towns,  except  Viazma,  to  Poland 
by  treaty,  in  1018,  on  condition,  how- 
ever, of  his  fa  tiler,  the  INIetropolitan 
Philaret,  being  set  at  liljerty.  In  1032 
that  sovereign  declared  war  against 
the  Poles  with,  the  object  of  regaining 
Smolensk.  The  command  of  32,000 
troops  and  158  ennnon  was  given  to 
the  same  Boyar  Sheiii  who  had  de- 
fended the  city  in  1011.  At  first  the 
Pussian  forces  were  successful,  and 
many  towns  surrendered;  but  in  1033 
King  Wladislaus  came  in  person  to  the 
relief  of  the  besieged  citizens,  and 
compelled  the  Pussians  on  the  10th 
February,  1034,  to  lay  down  tluir  arms 
under  an  armistice.  The  Boyar  Shein 
surrendered  all  his  war  material, stand- 
ards, and  provisions,  and  took  oath 
with  his  ti-oo]>s  not  to  cany  arms 
again.-;t- Poland  during  4  months.  It 
was  a  great  humiliation  to  the  vetenm 
Boyar  to  sec  his  troops  march  out  of 
their  camj>  without  Ix-at  f»f  drum,  and 
bow  low  to  the  hosts  of  Poland  while 
they  deposited  their  colours  at  the  feet 
of  the  King.  As  an  act  of  gnice 
Wladislaus  permitted  Shein  to  take 
12  guns  with  him,  but  on  returning  to 
^Moscow  the  unfortunate  man  was  be- 
headed, together  with  his  adjunct,  the 
Voe'vod  Izmailof 

Twenty    years    later   the   war   was 
renewed  under  the  T.sar  Alexis,  wlio 


Russia. 


Momie  12. — Smolemh 


243 


in  1054  arrived  in  person  with  a  large 
army  before  the  walls  of  Smolensk. 
The  first  assault,  made  after  a  siege 
of  6  weeks,  was  repulsed,  but  after 
a  second  attack  -  the  Polish  com- 
mander, whose  authority  had  been 
weakened  by  a  tumult  among  the 
citizens,  was  forced  to  surrender. 
On  the  23rd  September,  1054,  the 
Polish  troops,  this  time,  had  to  march 
<iut  of  the  fortress  ignominiously,  and 
lay  down  their  arms  at  the  feet  of  the 
Tsar.  Hostilities  continued  for  12 
years  longer,  and  during  that  time 
Smolensk  remained  in  the  hands  of  the 
Russians,  who  re-established  the  Russo- 
Greek  churches,  and  did  their  }>est  to 
Russify  the  province.  Great  numbers 
of  the  Polish  poj)ulation  were  deported 
to  the  Volga  and  the  Kama,  and  re- 
placed by  '*  sons  of  boyars  "  brought 
forcibly  from  lieyond  ^loscow.  The 
Treaty  of  Andrussy  (1007)  secured 
Smolensk  to  the  Russians  for  13  years 
and  0  months,  but  the  Poles  took  ad- 
vantage of  the  impending  war  between 
Hussia  and  Turkey  in  1078  and  de- 
manded the  restoration  of  the  city. 
This,  however,  the  Russians  refused  to 
do,  and  preferretl  paying  an  indemnity 
i>f  200,000 r.  and  surrendering  several 
other  towns.  At  last,  by  the  Treaty 
of  20th  April,  1080,  Smolensk  was 
annexed  to  Russia  "  for  ever." 

The  latter  part  of  the  17th  centy. 
was  passed  by  the  citizens  in  peace, 
and  their  ancient  trade  with  Russia 
and  other  countries  was  renewed. 
When  the  great  northern  war  broke 
out  at  the  beginning  of  the  18th  centy., 
Peter  the  Great  frequently  visited 
Smolensk,  and  devoted  much  labour 
to  securing  it  from  danger.  The  great 
war  did  not  reach  it,  but  it  was  made 
the  basis  of  the  operations  in  Lithuania 
and  Little  Russia,  and  the  Poles  natu- 
rally regretted  all  the  more  the  loss  of 
the  city  they  had  so  long  held.  Jesuit 
fathers  penetrated  into  it  and  gained 
over  many  of  the  citizens ;  and  although 
their  adinission  was  prohibited  by  ukaz 
in  1728,  when  those  who  had  already 
become  domiciled  in  Russia  were  ex- 
pi'lled,  they  continued,  according  to 
Russian  accounts,  to  enter  the  province 
of  Smolensk  in  disguise,  and  to  pro- 

Buma. — 1808. 


pagate  Catholicism  and  allegiance  to 
Poland.  In  1734  a  regular  plot  was 
discovered,  in  which  even  the  Governor 
of  Smolensk,  Prince  Cherkasky,  was 
implicated.  Their  designs  were  di- 
vulged by  one  of  the  conspirators, 
and  the  measures  which  the  Russian 
Government  adopted  dispelled  the 
hopes  of  the  Poles,  and  left  the  city 
of  Smolensk  in  peace  until  the  French 
invasion. 

The  traveller  is  referred  to  the  His- 
torical Notice  for  an  account  of  Bona- 
parte's campaign  in  Russia,  and  we 
need  only  add  the  following  particu- 
lars, as  regards  the  city  of  Smolensk, 
taken  from  a  Russian  source : — 

"  When  the  '  grand  army'  began  its 
march  from  the  Niemen  in  1812.  the 
Russian  troops  fell  back  on  Smolensk. 
Although  Barclay  do  Tolly  encou- 
raged the  inhabitants  and  assured 
them  of  their  safety,  he  nevertheless 
caused  the  treasury  to  be  removed, 
and  all  documents  from  which  the 
enemy  might  derive  any  information 
about  the  condition  of  the  country. 
The  two  Russian  armies  (one  com- 
manded by  Barclay  do  Tolly,  the 
other  by  Bagration)  reached  Smolensk 
on  the  22nd  July  (O.S.),  and  encamped 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Dnieper.  Three 
days  later  they  retreated  further,  leav- 
ing only  one  regiment  in  the  town.  In 
the  mean  while  the  French  advanced, 
and,  after  the  engagement  with  Never- 
ofski  at  Krasnoi,  appeared  on  the  3rd 
August  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Smo- 
lensk. Raefski,  sent  to  assist  Never- 
ofski,  fortified  as  far  as  he  could  the 
suburbs  of  the  town,  and  resolved  to 
maintain  himself  in  it  until  the  ar- 
rival of  the  two  armies. 

"  On  the  morning  of  the  4th  (10th) 
August  the  fighting  commenced,  and 
was  continued  the  next  day  with  great 
carnage,  as  the  armies  had  advanced 
the  day  before.  Many  assaults  were 
repulsed,  the  old  walls  withstood  a 
fearful  cannonade,  and  a  dreadful  fire 
broke  out  in  the  town.  .  .  .  During 
the  night  our  troops  evacuated  the 
town,  and  on  the  morning  of  the  6th 
(18th)  Napoleon  entered  it,  but  found 
nothing  except  smouldering  ruins,  and 
no  inhabitants  except   the  old,    the 

N 


244 


Boute  12. — Boslavl — Briansh, 


Sect.  II. 


young,  and  the  sick,  many  of  whom 
had  taken  refuge  in  the  churches. 
Napoleon  remained  4  days  at  Smo- 
lensk, and  established  a  Commission 
for  the  civil  administration  of  the 
town,  with  Caulaincourt  as  Military 
Governor.  The  Commission  could, 
however,  do  nothing;  a  rising  took 
place  all  over  the  country;  bands  of 
partisans  were  formed,  and  destroyed 
foraging  parties,  and  even  larger 
bodies  of  the  enemy,  whenever  thoy 
met  them.  The  French  tried  to  over- 
awe the  people  by  acts  of  severity,  and, 
having  seized  the  leaders  of  two  bands 
of  partisans,  Engelhard  and  Shubin, 
shot  them  at  Smolensk.  This  only 
increased  the  animosity  of  the  people, 
and  when,  on  the  29th  October  (O.S.), 
Napoleon  returned  to  Smolensk,  he 
found  nothing  for  the  support  of  the 
remnants  of  the  '  great  army.' 

"  The  further  retreat  of  Napoleon  was 
protected  at  Smolensk  by  Ney,  who  left 
the  city  on  the  Gth  (18th)  Novemljer, 
after  blowing  up  8  of  the  towers  built 
by  Godimof,  and  a  i)art  of  the  other 
fortifications.     The  Russians  who  had 
remained  in  the  town  issued  out  of 
their  places  of  refuge,  and  Ix^gan  to 
destroy  with  frenzy  the  stragglers  who 
roameil  about  the  town,  throwing  them 
into  the  flames  of  the  burning  build- 
ings and  into  holes  in  the  ice.    .    .    . 
The   20th  regiment  of  Rifles  entered 
Smolensk,  and   put   an  end  to  these 
outrages.     The  removal  and  destruc- 
tion of  the  bodies  of  men  and  carcases 
of  horses  were  continued  for  3  months 
afterwards,   for  many  of  the   streets 
were  literally   encumlx'red   with   the 
dead.   At  first  the  bodies  were  burned, 
piled  in  heaps  half  a  verst  in  length 
and    two   fathoms  high,   and,    when 
the     supply    of    wood     failed,    they 
were  buried  in  trenches  and  covered 
with   quick-lime.      P^pidemics    subse- 
quently  broke    out    in    consequence. 
The  losses  incurred  by  Smolensk  were 
at  that    tune  valued  at    6,592,404  r. 
60  c." 

The  mounds  which  cover  the  bodies 
of  the  unfortunate  Frenchmen  will  be 
seen  on  either  side  of  the  old  post- 
road  from  Moscow.  Although  the 
demolition  of  the  historical  walls  of 


Smolensk  has  been  commenced  by  the 
Town  Council,  there  is  reason  to  hope 
that  this  act  of  vandalism  will  go  no 
further,  and  that  the  traveller,  passing 
through  the  old  city,  will  still  catch  a 
glimpse  of  its  ancient  defences. 

RosLAVL,  118  V.  from  Smolensk,  on 
river  Orcha.     Pop.  7000. 

Vladimir  Monomachus  is  supposed 
to  have  founded  this  town  a.d.  1098, 
but  its  hist(^ry  does  not  properly  begin 
until    the   middle  of  the  12th  centy. 
Like  other  towns  in  the  principality 
of  Smolensk,  Roslavl  was  taken  by  the 
Lithuanians.     In  1493   it  was  taken 
by  the  Moscovites,  but  in  1503  John 
liL  gave  it  back  to  the  Lithuanians. 
Later,  Roslavl  passed  through  several 
hands.     In  1563  it  was  held  by  the 
troops  of  John  the  Terril^le,  who  <le- 
fended    it    successfully    against    the 
Lithuaniiins,    whose    'leader,     Prince 
John  Lytchko,  was  taken   prisoner. 
At  that' time  the  town  was  strongly 
fortified,  and  its  walls  were  defended 
by  many  cannon  and  a  largo  garrison. 
The  citizens  of  Roslavl  espoused  the 
cause  of  the  Pretender,  and  later,  while 
the  Poles  were  laying  siege  to  Smo- 
lensk, they  sent  a  deputation  to  King 
Sigismund  with  an  ofter  of  surrender. 
Tlu3    temj>oraiy    Polish    governor    of 
Roslavl,  Nadolsky,  so  greatly  irritated 
them   that    they    impaled    him.      In 
1613,   and  again  in   16:52,   the  ^los- 
covites  seized  the  town,  but  they  were 
obliged  each   time    to  restore  it   by 
treaty   to   the  Poles.     It   was   finally 
annexed  to  Russia  by  a  treaty  made 
in  1686.    The  old  martial  spirit  of  the 
inhabitants  revived  during  the  French 
invasion,  when  they  equipped   a   de- 
tachment of  400  horse  and  foot,  and 
greatly  harassed  the  French  foraging 
parties. 

BuiANSK,  145  V.  E.N.E.  of  Orel,  on 
both  banks  of  the  Desnia,  and  on  those 
of  4  other  small  rivers,  which  divide 
the  town  into  4  parts,  has  a  Pop.  of 
13,000.  This  town  is  mentioned  in 
chronicles  of  the  12th  centy.,  and 
formed  an  independent  principality, 
which  fell  in  1356,  on  the  death  of  its 
prince,  Vassili,  or  William.  'NMien 
the  Mongols  invaded  Russia,  Briansk 
was  seized  by  the  Lithuanians,  but 


Russia. 


Boute  12. — Kozelefs — Kief. 


245 


from  time  to  time  it  was  annexed  to 
Moscovy,  as  for  instance  in  1491.  It 
was  finally  incorporated  with  Russia 
in  the  beginning  of  the  17th  centy. 
The  adherents  of  the  first  Pretender 
took  possession  of  the  town,  but  the 
citizens  withstood  the  siege  of  the  se- 
cond false  Demetrius.  Under  the 
Empress  Anne  a  shipbuilding  yard  was 
established  there,  after  a  plan  by  Peter 
the  Great,  for  the  purpose  of  building 
vessels  to  be  employed  against  Turkey ; 
but  the  ships  having  proved  useless, 
their  further  constniction  was  stopped 
in  1739.  In  1783  an  arsenal  was 
founded  there  for  the  manufacture  of 
siege  and  field  guns.  It  still  exists, 
and  supplies  about  60  guns  a  year,  be- 
sides gun-carriages  and  other  artillery 
appurtenances.  There  are  13  churches 
within  the  town.  The  Cathedral  of 
the  Intercession  of  the  Holy  Virgin 
was  built  in  1526,  and  restored  in  the 
17th  centy.  In  the  Sacristy  will  be 
seen  a  copy  of  the  Evangelists,  with 
the  autograph  of  the  Tsar  Michael, 
1637.  There  is  also  a  convent  con- 
taining 2  churches,  in  one  of  which  is 
buried  Oleg,  Prince  of  Chemigof  and 
Briansk,  who  flourished  in  the  13th 
centy.,  and  afterwards  took  the  cowl 
under  the  name  of  Leonidas. 

A  considerable  trade  is  carried  on 
here  in  timber,  hemp,  and  hemp-seed 
oil,  produced  in  various  parts  of  the 
province  of  Orel,  in  which  the  town 
is  situated,  and  forwarded  hence  to 
Moscow,  Riga,  and  St.  Petersburg. 
The  inhabitants  likewise  purchase 
cattle  in  the  southern  provinces,  and 
sell  it  in  the  capitals. 

Orel,  vide  Rte.  13. 

(For  route  from  Orel  to  Kursk,  vide 
Rte.  13.) 

From  Kursk  the  line  of  rail  will 
pass  through  the  following  towns : — 

Belopolye,  on  rivers  Vvra  and 
Krj'ga.  Pop.  12.000.  Founded  in  1672. 
The  citizens  of  this  town  are  noted  for 
their  industry  and  enterprise  in  trade ; 
wheat,  salted  fish,  salt,  pitch,  and 
timber  being  the  produce  in  which  they 
deal.  10,000  to  12,000  chetverts  of 
wheat  are  annually  sold  here.  Tallow- 
melting  is  pursued  to  some  extent. 

Kozelets,    on    river    Ostra.     Pop. 


5000.  This  was  a  fortified  town  already 
in  the  17th  centy.,  when  it  suflfered 
much  from  the  fanaticism  of  the  Uniates, 
and  from  the  quartering  of  troops.  It 
took  an  active  part  in  the  Cossack 
rebellion.  In  the  latter  part  of  the 
17th  centy.  it  was  frequently  attacked 
by  the  Poles  and  Cossack  Hetmans. 
There  are  5  chs.  in  the  town,  of  which 
the  Cath.  was  built  by  Count  Rastrelli 
in  the  reign  of  the  Empress  Ehzabeth. 
It  contains  the  tomb  of  the  mother  of 
a  former  Hetman  of  Little  Russia — 
Count  Cyril  Razumofski.  It  is  situated 
in  the  province  of  Chernigof,  in  Little 
Russia,  in  the  fertile  districts  of  which 
the  traveller  will  observe  some  distinc- 
tive features  in  the  landscape,  such  as 
the  primitive  windmills,  and  the  use  of 
thatch  instead  of  wood  for  the  roofs  of 
tlie  cottages,  many  of  which  have  or- 
chards attached  to  them.  The  traveller 
will  have  observed  on  leaving  Kursk 
that  he  was  entering  the  flat  country 
of  the  *•  Steppes  " — immense  districts, 
where  he  will  rarely  descry  anything 
between  him  and  the  horizon  but  a 
straggling  tree  or  perhaps  a  tumulus. 
Before  the  construction  of  the  railroad 
there  was  much  danger  in  traversing 
these  tracts  in  winter, — as  in  the  dark 
or  in  a  snow-storm  the  way  was  easily 
lost,  and  the  bewildered  wanderer  would 
sometimes  be  frozen  or  overwhelmed  in 
drift.  A  few  stations  beyond  Kozelets 
is 

Kief.  Hotels :  H.  d'Angleterre  ; 
H.  de  Russie;  H.  de  I'Europe  (very 
fair) ;  and  several  others,  almost  equally 
good.    Rooms  from  1  to  5  rs. 

(01)8.  Steamers  ply  twice  a  week  in 
STunmer  between  Kief  and  Ekaterino- 
slaf,  from  whence  travellers  may  proceed 
to  Kherson,  and  take  boat  to  Odessa, 
or  proceed  by  Perekop  through  the 
Crimea.  The  steamers  between  Nico- 
pol,  on  the  Dnieper,  and  Kherson,  3 
times  a- week.    Fare  7*50  rs.) 

History. — Kief,  "  the  Jerusalem  of 
Russia,"  with  a  Pop.  of  70,000,  is  one 
of^he  most  ancient  towns  in  Europe. 
Its  authentic  history  begins  with  the 
arrival  of  two  Variag  or  Norman  knights, 
Askold  and  Dyr,  with  their  comrades, 
who  left  Novgorod  to  tike  possession 
of  it.    With  a  fleet  of  200  vessels  the 

N  2 


246 


Boiite  12,— Kief. 


Sect  II. 


Eussia. 


Boute  12. — Kief. 


247 


Norman  princes  of  Kief  sailed  along  the 
Dnieper  and  the  Euxine,  and  reached 
Byzantium,  where  the  knights  embraced 
Christianity.  In  882  Oleg  came  to 
Kiuf,  with  Igor,  the  youthful  son  of 
Rurik,  killed  treacherously  the  two 
knights,  and,  taking  possession  of  the 
city,  determined  that  it  should  be  "  the 
mother  of  Russian  towns." 

From  that  period  Kief  became  the 
capital  of  the  Russian  principali- 
ties. Olga,  Regent  at  Kief  during 
the  minority  of  the  son  of  Igor,  em- 
braced Christianity  at  Constiintinople 
about  A.D.  955.  (.Vide  Historical 
Notice.)  Under  the  Grand  Duke  Vla- 
dimir, who  linally  introduced  the 
Christian  religion  into  Russia,  and 
during  the  reigns  of  several  of  his  suc- 
cessors, Kief  acquired  much  importance, 
and  grew  prosperous  from  its  connec- 
tion with  the  Byzantine  empire.  An- 
cient writers  affirm  that  in  the  lltli 
cent,  there  were  no  fewer  than  400 
churches  withni  its  walls.  In  the  year 
1017  a  fire  almost  entirely  consumed  it. 
The  death  of  Yaroslaf  (1054)  led  to 
intestine  commotions  and  wars,  which 
more  than  once  caused  the  city  to 
change  masters.  In  1240  the  Tartars 
took  it  and  sacked  it.  In  1320  Gue'- 
demin,  Duke  of  Lithuania,  drove  out 
the  Tartars,  and  annexed  the  whole  of 
that  part  of  the  country  to  Lithuania. 
In  14i}G  and  1500  the  Tartars  again 
ravaged  the  ill-fated  city.  The  sub- 
sequent fat€  of  Kief  will  be  best 
described  in  a  short  history  of  the  S.W. 
provinces,  of  which  it  is  now  the  seat 
of  government. 

Volhynia,  Kief,  and  Podolia  have  a 
Pop.  of  about  5  millions.  Volhynia 
lies  in  the  basin  of  the  Prypet  river,  and 
is  very  fertile  in  its  southern  districts, 
which  were  once  covered  with  castles 
and  flourishing  cities  connected  with 
the  history  of  Poland.  Jitomir  is  the 
only  town  that  has  risen  since  the  an- 
nexation of  Volhynia  to  the  empire  of 
Russia.  Podolia  is  the  country  com- 
prised between  the  Bug  and  the  midcjle 
part  of  the  Dniester.  From  time  im- 
memorial this  has  been  a  land  flowing 
with  milk  and  honey.  The  southern 
portion  of  the  province  of  Kief  is  almost 
equally  fertile.     Beetroot  is  very  much 


cultivated  there,  and  many  thousands 
of  the  population  are  engtiged  in  ex- 
tracting sugar  from  it. 

This  was  anciently  called  the  Uk- 
raine, or  border  cotmtry,  and  beyond  it 
were  the  uninhabited  Steppes  by  which 
the  Mongols  advanced  to  overrun 
Europe.  The  semi-nomadic  population 
of  the  Ukraine  were  early  called  Cos- 
sacks. From  the  princes  of  the  house  of 
Rurik  these  provinces  passed  into  the 
possession  of  Lithuania  and  Poland, 
after  having  been  devastated  by  the 
Tartars  in  1238.  At  the  union  of 
Lithuania  with  Poland  (1386)  the 
whole  of  "  Southern  Ruthenia"  was 
annexed  to  Poland.  Polish  nobles 
f>btained  large  grants  of  unpopu- 
lated lands  in  Volhynia  and  Podolia, 
and  built  castles,  under  the  sha- 
dows of  which  rose  towns  and  vil- 
lages. By  the  union  of  Lublin  ( 1569) 
tlu^  three  provinces  of  Volhynia,  Po- 
dolia, and  Kief  were  recognised  as  con- 
stituent portions  of  Poland.  But  they 
were  later  ceded  in  part  to  Russia, 
which,  however,  by  the  treaty  of  Viazma, 
in  1634,  recognised  the  right  of  Poland 
to  Smolensk,  Chernigof,  and  the  whole 
of  the  Ukraine  on  both  bunks  of  the 
Dnieper.  The  Cossacks  soon  after 
Ixicanie  very  troublesome.  They  were 
conti  lually  undertaking  expeditions 
against  the  Turks  and  the  Tartars, 
and  laying  Poland  open  to  the  imputa- 
tion of  a  want  of  good  faith  and  a  dis- 
regard of  treaties.  Recruited  from  the 
dregs  of  Polish  society,  and  scorned  by 
the  Polish  aristocracy,  the  Cossacks 
were  very  democratic  in  spirit. 

Religious  dissension,  caused  by  the 
conversion  of  a  portion  of  the  population 
of  the  southern  provinces  to  Catholic- 
ism, gave  them  (the  Cossacks)  another 
cause  of  disaffection.  Under  the  leader- 
ship of  an  ambitious  and  clever  Polish 
noble,  Bogdan  Khmelnitski,  whom  they 
elected  Hetman,  they  rose  in  1648,  and 
devastated  Volhynia,  Podolia,  and  the 
Ukraine  during  20  years.  The  Het- 
man, unable  to  resist  the  Polish  arms, 
became  a  vassal  of  the  Khan  of  the 
Crimea,  and,  flnding  his  protection  in- 
sufficient, swore  allegiance  to  the  Tsar 
Alexis  of  Moscow  in  1657. 

By  the  Treaty  of  Andrussy  (1667), 


\ 


Poland  and  theTsar  agreed  to  divide  the 
Ukraine  into  two  parts,  the  former  re- 
taining the  Ukraine  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Dnieper,  and  Moscovy  taking  the 
Ukraine  on  its  left  bank  and  the  town 
of  Kief.  Southern  Rutiienia  remained 
in  the  possession  of  the  Republic  of 
Poland  until  the  second  partition  in 
1793,  when  the  provinces  of  Volhynia, 
Podolia,  and  Kief  passed  finally  under 
the  Russian  sceptre. 

Topography,  &c. — Although  deprived 
of  much  of  its  ancient  grandeur,  the 
city  of  Kief  is,  nevertheless,  one  of  the 
most  remarkable  towns  in  Russia. 
Picturesquely  situated  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Dnieper,  or  Boristheues, 
it  is  divided  into  three  principal  parts, 
the  "Old  Town,"  the  "  Pecherskoi," 
also  called  the  "  New  Fort,"  and  the 
"Podole,"  the  "Low  Town,"  or 
*'  Town  of  the  Vale."  Eacli  of  these 
has  its  own  fortifications.  The  banks 
of  the  Dnieper  are  here  lofty,  and  on 
two  steep  hills  are  situated  the  Old 
Town  and  the  Pecherskoi  division,  with 
their  monastery,  fortress,  and  bastions, 
separated  from  each  other  by  a  deep 
ravine,  while  the  Podole  occupies  the 
space  between  the  hills  and  the  river, 
where  the  commercial  affairs  of  the 
town  are  transacted.  The  site  of  the  Old 
Town,  in  remote  ages,  was  the  Selavo- 
nian  Pantheon.  There  the  worshippers 
of  Perune,  Horsa,  Lado,  and  other 
idolatrous  deities,  rendered  homage  to 
their  savage  gods ;  and  there  the  rough 
Christian  Vladimir  erected  the  church 
of  St.  Basil  (still  standing),  on  the  spot 
long  decorated  by  the  temple  of  Perune, 
the  Russian  Jupiter.  At  the  northern 
end  of  the  high  land  on  which  the  Old 
Town  stands  is  part  of  another  church 
that  was  likewise  erected  by  Vladimir. 
The  immense  earthen  walls  of  this  very 
ancient  part  of  Kief  enclose,  within  a 
small  space,  several  churches,  and  the 
Cathedral  of  St.  Sophia.  This  magni- 
ficieut  structure  was  built  by  the  Grand 
Duke  Yaroslaf  in  1037,  on  the  spot  and 
in  -commemoration  of  his  victory  over 
the  Petchenegans.  It  is  replete  with 
religious  and  historical  recollections. 
On  the  pillars  which  support  the  cupola 
frescoes  have  lately  been  brought  to 
light  representing  departed  members 


of  the  Uniat  hierarchy,  wearing  the 
Catholic  tonsure,  with  close-shaven 
chins.  The  church  of  St.  Sophia  was 
in  possession  of  the  Uniats  between 
1590  and  1633,  when  some  of  the  fres- 
coes on  its  walls  were  covered  with 
whitewash,  and  thus  preserved  from 
the  effect  of  time.  There  are  some 
curious  frescoes  along  the  walls  of  the 
stairs  leading  to  the  galleries,  descrip- 
tive of  a  boar-hunt  and  other  sports, 
intermixed  with  drawings  of  musicians, 
dancers,  and  jugglers;  all  apparently 
cotemporaneous  with  the  building  of 
the  church.  Over  the  high  altar  is  a 
picture  of  the  Holy  Virgin,  in  mosaic- 
work,  by  Byzantine  artists.  The  Lord's 
Sujjper  is  also  depicted  in  mosaic  on 
the  eastern  wall  of  the  ch.,  and  there 
are  many  other  specimens  of  the  same 
work,  more  or  less  in  a  good  state  of 
preservation,  and  all  of  the  highest 
interest,  considering  their  extreme 
antiquity. 

The  marble  tomlj  of  Yaroslaf  stands 
in  the  chapel  dedicated  to  St.  Vladimir. 
It  is  curiously  carved.  The  principal 
relics  in  the  ch.  of  St.  Sophia  are 
those  of  St.  Macarius,  Metropolitan  of 
Kief  A.D.  1495,  decapitated  by  the  Tar- 
tars in  1497.  Tiie  church  vessels  and 
books  are  not  very  remarkable.  IVIany 
princes  of  Kief  lie  buried  here. 

Tliere  are  many  other  churches  of 
ancient  origin  in  this  venerable  town. 
We  can  only  mention  the  ch.  called 
the  Desiatiunaya.  supposed  to  have 
been  built  a.d  989,  by  St.  Vladimir, 
and  that  of  St.  George,  erected  about 
1052.  A  small  monument  is  erected 
close  to  it  over  the  ruins  of  an  ancient 
monastery  of  St.  Irine.  The  remains 
of  an  old  wall  are  carefully  preserved 
as  marking  the  site  of  a  gate  of  gilt 
bronze  by  which  the  town  was  ap- 
proached in  the  days  of  Yaroslaf. 

The  palace  of  the  Metropolitan  is 
close  to  the  cathedral,  and  shaded  by 
venerable  trees.  Some  remarkable  re- 
mains of  ancient  art  are  preserved 
in  it. 

The  Fecherskoi  Monastery,  or  Kievo- 
Pecherskava  Lavra,  the  first  in  rank 
in  Russia,  and  the  most  ancient  in 
origin,  having  been  built  in  1055, 
stands  within  the  immense  fortress  of 


248 


Boute  12»—Pecher8h)i  Monastery. 


Sect.  IT. 


Russia. 


Boute  12. — Berdichef —  Vinnitsa, 


249. 


Pechersk,  and  gives  its  name  to  that 
portion  of  Kief,  which,  from  the  eastern 
upproacli,  has  an  exceedingly  striking 
and  picturesque  effect.  The  churches 
and  cathedral  of  the  Old  Town,  grouped 
with  those  of  this  monastery,  all  gilt  and 
coloured,  and  the  massive  fortress,  walls, 
and  bastions  mantling  the  heights, 
seize  at  once  upon  the  traveller's  atten- 
tion   at   the   close    of   his    laborious 

journey. 

The  entrance  to  the  monastery  is  by 
a  splendid  gate,  ornamented  by  full- 
length  representations  of  St.  Anthony 
and  St.  Theodosius.  the  two  first  abbots. 
The  cathedral,  dedicated  to  the  Ascen- 
sion of  the  Virgin,  is  reached  by  a  fine 
alley,  on  either  side  of  which  are  the 
cells  of  the  brotherhood.    The  interior 
of  the  catiiedral  is  in  an  elegant  style 
of  architecture,  and  on  its  walls  beau- 
tiful representations   of  scenes   taken 
from  Scripture  history  are  many  and 
various;   it  is  also   resplendent  with 
gilding,  gold  and  silver,  applied  to  all 
decorative  purposes  in   the   building, 
and  on  the  shrines,  the  most  remark- 
able of  which  is  that  of  the  Virgin,  over 
the  doors  which  open  into  the  Most 
Holy  Place.      The  lights   constantly 
burning  about  the  church,  and  the  pro- 
fusion of  them  about  this  particular 
shrine  at  the  Vesper  service,  are  in- 
sufficient to  show  to  advantage   the 
richly-decorated  ceiling.     The  seven 
turrets  of  this  church,  with  their  gilt 
cupolas,  connected  by  golden  chains, 
and  the   superb  belfry,  which  stands 
alone,  and  is  upwards  of  800  ft.  high, 
add  much  to  the  external  splendom*  of 
the  place.     It  may  be  mentioned  that 
the  Russian  annalist,  Nestor,  lived  and 
wrote  his  Chronicle  in  this  convent. 
Among  the  numerous  other  churches 
in  the  enclosure,  that  of  St.  Nicholas 
is  the  most  worthy  of  a  strangers  in- 
spection.     Within    the   walls  of  the 
fortress  of  Pechersk  are  the  barracks 
of  the  garrison,  the  magazine,  arsenals, 
and  the  houses  of  the  officers.     Near 
the  fortress  is  a  bazaar ;  and  the  quarter 
of  the  town  behind  it,  which  is  regularly 
laid  out,  is  partly  inliabited  by  Jews. 
The  best  part  of  the  town,  containing 
the  residence  of  the  Governor  and  other 
persons  of  distinction,  shaded  by  fine 


old  trees,  is  north  of  the  Jewish  neigh- 
lx)urhood. 

The  renowned  catacombs  of  St.  An- 
thony, the  founder  of  the  monastery, 
are  excavations  in  the  precipitous  cliff 
which  overhangs  the  river;  his  re- 
mains are  therein  preserved  at  the 
extremity  of  the  labyrinth.  This 
passage  'is  about  6  ft.  high,  but  ex- 
tremely narrow,  and  blackened  by  the 
torches  of  numerous  visitors.  The 
number  of  bodies  here  preserved  is 
about  80,  ranged  in  niches  on  both 
sides  of  the  passage,  in  open  coffins, 
enveloped  in  wrappers  of  cloth  and 
silk,  ornamented  with  gold  and  silver. 
The  stiffened  hands  of  the  saints  are 
so  placed  as  to  receive  the  devotional 
kisses  of  the  pilgrims ;  and  on  their 
breasts  arc  written  their  names,  and 
sometimes  a  short  record  of  their  vir- 
tuous deeds.  These  saints  had  died 
a  naturid  death  ;  but  the  most  distress- 
ing part  of  the  scene  is  the  row  of 
small  windows,  behind  which  the 
martyrs  had  built  themselves  into  a 
stone  wall,  leaving  only  those  aper- 
tures at  which  to  receive  their  food. 
The  catacombs  of  Theodosius  are  to 
the  south  of  those  of  St.  Anthony, 
and  are  on  a  mucli  smaller  scale  and 
simpler  plan.  They  contain  only  45 
bodies,  which  are  not  so  highly  vene- 
rated as  those  in  the  other  catacomb. 

The  pilgrims  to  this  monastery  and 
the  catacombs  amount  annually  to  as 
many  aa  50,000,  or  more;  some  from 
one  partot  the  widely-extended  Russian 
empire,  some  from  another.  A  few  will 
toil  even  all  the  weary  way  from  Kam- 
chatka, collecting  on  the  road  the  offer- 
ings of  those  who  are  either  not  able 
or  not  sufficiently  devout  to  undertake 
the  journey  themselves.  A  sh(jrt  dis- 
tance from*  the  road  which  leads  from 
Pechersk  to  the  Podole,  the  traveller 
should  notice  a  handsome  monument, 
that  marks  tl  e  fountain  in  which  the 
children  of  Vlaiimir  the  Great  were 
baptized.  It  is  a  stone  obelisk,  150  ft. 
high  ;  and  close  to  its  base  is  a  wooden 
crucifix,  bearing,  in  Hebrew,  Greek, 
and  Latin,  the  words  Jesus  of  Nazareth, 
the  King  of  the  Jews.  The  administra- 
tion of  tiie  baptismal  jite  to  the  Russian 
people,  at  the  jxjriod  of  the  conversion 


of  their  renowned  Grand  Duke,  took 
place  very  near  the  spot  on  which  this 
monument  stands. 

The  Podole  portion  of  Kief  is  well 
and  regularly  laid  out,  interspersed 
with  trees  and  gardens,  and  forms  a 
strong  contrast  to  the  old  parts  of 
the  city,  where,  at  almost  every  turn, 
the  picturesque  presents  itself  in  great 
variety. 

The  University  of  St.  Vladimir, 
founded  1833,  is  frequented  by  about 
r>00  students.  The  library  contains 
107,000  vols.,  and  the  collections  are 
equally  complete. 

The  Nicholas  Suspension  Bridge 
over  the  Dnieper  is  one  of  the  greatest 
modern  triumphs  of  engineering  art. 
It  was  built  between  1848  and  1855, 
by  an  Englishman,  Mr.  Charles  Vig- 
nolles.  Its  length  is  6755  ft.,  and  it 
cost  about  375,000Z. 


The  railroad  from  Kief  to  Balta  and 
0<lessa  will  be  ready  in  the  autumn  of 
18G9.  It  will  pass  through  the  follow- 
ing towns : — 

Berdichef,  104  v.  from  Kief,  on 
river  Gnilopiat.     Pop.  53.000. 

History. — In  1320  the  land  on  which 
the  to^vn  is  sitiiated  was  given  by 
(luedemin.  Prince  of  Lithuania,  to 
Tyskewicz,  one  of  his  subjects.  At 
Ihe  close  of  the  IGth  centy.  Tyskewicz, 
the  then  Voe'vod  of  Kief,  built  here  a 
castle,  and  in  1027  founded  a  monas- 
tery of  Carmelites,  to  whom  later  he 
1)0<iueathed  his  castle.  As  Berdichef 
was  subject  to  the  inroads  of  Tartars 
and  Cossacks,  the  monks  built  a  wall 
and  dug  a  ditch  round  the  monastery. 
In  1047  Khmelnitzky,  Iletman  of  the 
Little  Russians,  took  Berdichef  and 
pillaged  the  monastery.  The  monks 
only  returned  in  1GG3,  and  commenced 
a  lawsuit  against  the  lord  of  the  soil, 
who  disputed  their  rights  to  the  monas- 
tery. Their  claim  was  admitted  by  a 
trilmnal  in  1717.  In  1737  the  monks 
l.iegan  to  build  over  the  crypt  which 
their  predecessors  had  constructed 
about  1632.  The  superstructure  was 
finished  in  1754,  when  Pope  Benedict 
IV.  presented  a  valuable  crown  to  the 
ancient  image  of  the  Virgin,  given  to 
the  monks  by  Tyskewicz  in  1627.    In 


1700  the  Hetman  Mazcppa  confined 
the  celebrated  Cossack  rebel  Palei  in 
the  crypt,  which  is  still  called  after 
the  name  of  the  latter.  King  Stanis- 
laus Augustus  permitted  the  holding 
of  ten  annual  fairs  at  Berdichef,  in 
1765,  from  which  date  the  present 
commercial  importance  of  the  town 
takes  its  rise.  In  1768  Casimir  Pu- 
lavski,  chief  of  the  confederates,  after 
taking  Bar,  marched  on  Berdichef  and 
fortified  himself  within  ftie  monastery 
with  700  men,  and  only  siu-rendered 
by  capitulation  after  a  siege  of  25 
days.  The  town  now  belongs  to  the 
Radziwill  family,  who  inherited  it  by 
marriage.  Berdichef  is  only  second  to 
Kief  in  the  extent  of  its  trade,  which 
is  entirely  in  the  hands  of  Jews  (nearly 
51,000).  They  purchase  enormous 
quantities  of  g(X)ds  at  the  fairs  and 
seaports,  and  sell  them  wholesale 
and  retail  in  the  provinces  of  Kief, 
Podolia,  and  Volhynia.  Markets  are 
held  twice  a-week,  and  there  are  5 
fairs  diu-ing  the  year ;  14  (26)  January, 
in  March,  12  (24)  June,  15  (27) 
August,  and  1  (13)  November.  Those 
of  June  and  August  are  the  most 
considerable.  The  traders  of  Berdi- 
chef turn  over  about  40  millions  of 
roubles  during  the  year.  The  prin- 
cipal articles  of  trade  are  cotton  and 
silk  goods,  glass-ware,  hardware,  salt, 
fish,  cattle,  wheat,  and  beetroot  sugar. 

ViNXiTSA,  on  river  Bug.  Pop. 
10.000. 

This  town,  now  in  the  province  of 
Podolia,  was  founded  on  the  1.  bank 
of  the  Bug  in  the  14th  centy.,  and  was 
anciently  protected  by  2  castles,  of 
which  no  traces  remain.  It  was  fre- 
quently attacked  by  the  Cossacks  and 
Tartars,  particularly  during  the  rebel- 
lion of  the  Little  Russians,  under 
Khmelnitsky.  In  the  18th  centy.  the 
inhab.  defended  themselves  against 
the  Gaidamaks,  or  Cossack  robbers,  by 
shutting  themselves  up  within  the 
high  walls  of  the  Jesuits'  College, 
founded  in  1649,^  by  Wladislaus  IV. 
The  walls  are  still  extant,  but  the 
building  was  devoted  between  1813 
and  1847  to  the  purposes  of  a  school, 
and  later  it  was  converted  into  a  mili- 
tary hospital.    The  town  was  annexed 


250 


JRoute  12. — Odessa. 


Sect.  II. 


to  Russia,  togothor  with  Podolia,  in 
1796.  A  Catholic  monastery  of  Capu- 
cins,  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  and 
a  'Russian  convent,  founcled  in  1G35 
are  among  the  sights  of  the  town. 

A  few  stations  beyond  Vinnitsa  the 
train  will  reach  the  Balta  and  Odessa 
line. 

Odessa,  on  N.  coast  of  Black  Sea. 
Lat.  46^  28'.     Pop.  119,000. 

Hotels.  —  II.  de  Londres,  on  the 
Boulevard,  the  best ;  H.  de  St.  Peters- 
burg ;  H.  de  la  Xouvellc  Russie  ;  H. 
de  I'Europe. 

Clubs. — Odessa,  formerly  the  English 
Club ;  the  Russian  Steam  Navigation 
Club ;  German  Club  (the  resort  of 
merchants)  ;  and  the  Harmonic,  where 
amateur  theatricals  are  frequently 
performed  in  German. 

Commissioners. — Travellers  should 
secure  the  services  of  a  Jew  '*  factor," 
or  commissioner,  with  whom  accounts 
should  be  settled  daily. 

Vehicles. — Drojkis  are  to  l>e  found 
at  every  corner;  they  have  generally 
2  horses;  the  fare  is  about  40  copecks 
the  hour. 

History  of  the  Town. — In  the  earliest 
ages  settlements  or  seaports  existed 
on  the  N.  coast  of  the  Euxine,  between 
the  Dnieper  and  the  Dniester.  One 
of  these  was  called  Odessus,  after 
a  Greek  town  in  Thrace,  and  was 
situated  at  a  short  distance  N.E.  of 
the  modern  city.  The  great  migra- 
tion of  peoples  which  took  place  in  the 
3rd  and  4th  centiu-ies  destroyed  those 
settlements  and  their  trade,  and  for 
nearly  ten  centiu-ies  there  is  no  account 
of  their  being  re-established.  It  is 
supposed  that  in  the  9th  centy.  that 
part  of  the  coast  of  the  lAixine  was  in 
the  possession  of  a  Slavonian  tribe. 
Somewhat  later,  when  the  Genoese 
began  to  visit  the  Pontus  Euxinus, 
they  gave  the  present  site  of  Odessa 
the  name  of  "La  Ginestra,"  probably 
from  the  circumstance  of  its  being 
overgrown  with  the  genista  tinctoria^ 
or  dyer's  broom ;  but  they  marked  no 
settlements  as  existing  there  on  their 
charts.  From  the  14th  centy.  the 
coast  of  the  Black  Sea  between  the 
Dnieper  and  the  Dniester  was  claimed 
by  the  Princes  of  Lithuania.     In  1396 


Olgerd,  a  Lithuanian  general,  defeated 
on  that  coast  three  Tartar  chiefs,  one 
of  whom,  called  Bek-Hadji,  had  but 
a  short  time  previously  founded  on  the 
present  site  of  Odessa  a  fortress  which 
he  named  Hadji-B<  y.  First  the  Lithua- 
nians, then  the  Poles,  held  possession 
of  the  coast  until  the  first  part  of  the 
16th  centy.,  when  Hadji-Bey  and  its 
ni'i'j:hbourhood  fell  under  the  dominion 
of  the  Tartars.  Polish  and  Lithuanian 
merchants  were,  however,  permitted 
to  continue  their  trade  there,  and  to 
raise  salt  from  the  lakes  in  the  vicinity. 

When  the  Turks  began  to  establish 
themselves  on  the  Black  Sea,  they 
placed  garrisons  and  raised  fortifi- 
cations at  several  j>oints  along  the 
coast.  Thus  in  1764,  while  making 
ready  for  a  war  with  Russia,  they 
Imilt  the  fortress  of  Yani-Dunya,  at 
Hadji-Bey.  In  1769  the  Zaporogian 
Cossacks  biu-nt  the  suburbs  of  Hadji- 
Bey,  but  having  no  cannon  were  ini- 
able  to  take  the  fortress.  The  Treaty 
of  Kinardji  seenn-d  it  to  the  Turks, 
who  found  it  necessary  to  strengthen 
the  works.  Wiien  Russia  went  to 
war  again  with  Turkey  in  1787,  the 
"  Ataman  "  of  the  Black  Sea  CV)s.sacks 
attacked  Hadji-Bi'y,  and  set  fire  to  its 
stores,  but  the  fortress  only  fell  in 
1789,  to  Brigadier  de  Ribas,  who  com- 
manded the  vanguard  of  the  corps  of 
General  Gudovitch,  then  engaged  in 
making  a  reconnaissance  at  the  lower 
course  of  tlie  Dniester.  On  the  14th 
(26tl0  September,  1789,  De  Ribas  led 
his  troops  to  the  assault  under  a  heavy 
fire  both  from  the  citadel  and  from  the 
Turkish  ships  in  the  roads.  In  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  the  left  face  of  the 
fortress  was  penetrated,  and  the  gar- 
rison yieldetl.  By  the  Treaty  of  Jassv, 
1791,  Hadji-Bey,  with  the  whole  i)f 
the  province  of  Otchakof,  was  annexed 
to  Russia. 

A  new  fortress  was  founded  at 
Hadji-Bey  in  1793,  and  in  1794  its 
builder,  De  Ribas,  obtained  permission 
to  establish  a  mercantile  city  in  its 
vicinity.  The  construction  of  the  towni 
and  harbour  was  intrusted  by  Cathe- 
rine the  Great  to  De  Ribas  and  De 
Volant,  who  employed  for  that  purpose 
the  troops  in  garrison  at  Hadji-Bey, 


Eussia. 


Boute  12. — Odessa. 


251 


Greeks  and  Albanians  were  attracted 
to  the  spot,  so  that  in  1795  Hadji-Bey 
had  a  population  of  more  than  2000 
souls  in  addition  to  its  garrison,  and  it 
was  then  named  Odessa,  after  the 
ancient  colony  already  mentioned.  In 
1796  the  new  port  was  entered  by  86 
foreign  ships,  and  its  commercial  im- 
]K)rtance  began  to  advance  rapidly. 
The  accession  of  the  Emperor  Paul 
put  a  stop  to  the  works,  and  De  Ribas 
was  recalled.  In  1800,  however,  the 
privileges  of  Odessa  were  confirmed, 
and  a  sum  of  250,000  roubles  was  ad- 
vanced from  the  Treasury  for  the  pur- 
pose of  finishing  the  construction  of 
the  port.  The  Emperor  Alexander 
renewed  the  privileges  for  a  term  of 
25  years,  freed  the  town  from  the 
quartering  of  troops  —  then  a  great 
hard.«ihip,  —  allotted  one-tenth'  of  the 
customs  duties  to  the  maintenance 
and  improvement  of  the  harbour,  and 
caused  two  new  piers  to  be  built. 
But  the  prosperity  of  Odessa  is  chiefly 
due  to  the  talents  and  energy  of  Duke 
Emanuel  de  Richelieu,  a  French  emi- 
grant who  was  made  its  first  governor 
in  1830.  Eleven  years  later,  when  lie 
was  succeeded  by  Count  Langeron,  the 
population  had  grown  from  9000  to 
25,000. 

The  principal  streets  were  laid  out 
and  lighted  by  him.  He  built  the 
quarantine  (in  the  old  fortress),  the 
mole,  warehouses  for  foreign  goods, 
and  a  theatre.  With  every  opportunity 
of  enriching  himself,  the  duke  is  said 
to  have  left  Odessa  with  a  small  port- 
manteau containing  his  uniform  and 
two  shirts,  the  greater  part  of  his  in- 
come having  been  disbursed  in  reliev- 
ing the  distresses  of  immigrants  who 
generally  arrived  in  a  great  state  of 
destitution.  His  amiable  and  chari- 
table qualities  endeared  him  to  all 
classes,  and  his  departure  was  greatly 
regretted. 

In  1817  Odessa  obtained  the  privi- 
leges of  a  free  port  for  30  years.  In 
1822,  however,  it  having  become 
known  that  the  freedom  was  about  to 
be  abolishetl,  the  foreign  merchants 
were  on  the  point  of  quitting  the  town, 
when  the  obnoxious  order  was  rescind- 
ed, and  Count  Langeron,  the  governor. 


who  had  advocated  the  measure,  was 
dismissed .  The  town  owes  much  of  its 
present  greatness  to  Prince  WoronzofF, 
who  came  to  reside  at  Odessa  as  Go- 
vernor-General of  Xew  Russia  in  1823. 
He  caused  "  the  Duke's  Garden  "  to  be 
laid  out,  and  a  monster  staircase  on 
arches  to  be  built  from  the  end  of  the 
Boulevard  to  the  shore  under  the  cliflf. 
Many  educational  and  charitable  insti- 
tutions were  founded  during  his  tenure 
of  office,  the  harbour  was  deepened, 
and  many  other  useful  works  were 
begun  and  completed. 

On  the  10th  (22nd)  April,  1854, 
Odessa  was  bombarded  during  12 
hrs.  by  an  Anglo-French  squadron. 
The  Tiger  frigate  went  ashore  on 
the  12th  May  near  Odessa,  and  was 
set  on  fire  by  the  shore  batteries.  The 
officers  and  crew  were  made  prisoners 
of  war,  but  not  before  they  had 
burnt  their  colours  and  papers.  The 
flag  exhibited  in  one  of  the  chs.  at  St. 
Petersburg  as  that  of  the  Tiger  be- 
longed merely  to  one  of  its  boats.  The 
freedom  of  the  port  was  aboUshed  at 
the  outbreak  of  the  Crimean  war,  and 
the  town  now  enjoys  an  annual  sub- 
sidy in  lieu  thereof.  In  1861  gas  was 
introduced,  and  in  1866-67  Mr.  Fur- 
ness,  an  English  contractor,  paved  the 
town  very  efficiently.  Owing  to  the 
energy  of  Baron  Ungern  Sternberg, 
the  railway  was  opened  to  Balta  in 
1866. 

The  imports  of  foreign  goods  at 
Odessa  amounted  between  1861  and 
1864  to  the  annual  value  of  10;^  mil- 
lion roubles,  while  the  exports  were 
officially  valued  during  the  same 
period  at  30|  millions.  Wheat  is  the 
principal  article  of  export  (17^  mil- 
lions;. It  is  brought  to  Odessa  in 
bullock  carts,  in  barges  down  the 
Dniester,  Dniej>er,  and  the  Bug,  and 
by  the  Balta  rly.  Wool  is  also  ex- 
ported in  considerable  quantities  (8^ 
millions).  The  shipments  of  tallow 
are  valued  at  a  little  less  than  a  mil- 
lion roubles,  and  those  of  linseed  at  2^ 
millions.  The  port  is  annually  visited 
by  1300  to  1500  vessels,  of  which 
about  200  are  under  British  colours. 

Topography,  cfcc— Should    the   tra- 
veller have  reached  Odessa  from  the 

N  3 


252 


Boute  12. — Odessa. 


Sect.  II. 


interior  of  Russia,  he  will  be  stnick 
■with  tlie  bright  and  European  aspect 
of  the  great  mercantile  city,  which, 
built  principally  of  stone,  is  totally 
unlike  any  other  Russian  town.  Fa- 
voured, however,  as  Odessa  is  by  its 
position  on  the  sea,  it  is  bordered  on 
the  left  side  by  a  dreary  steppe  of  so 
intractable  a  soil  that  trees  and  shrubs, 
with  the  exception  of  the  acacia, 
rarely  attain  any  size,  and  in  many 
places  will  not  even  live.  A  narrow 
slip  along  the  sea-shore  is  about  the 
only  oasis  of  vegetation  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  city.  The  climate  is 
very  unequal,  and,  the  town  being 
built  on  a  limestone  cliflf  of  a  very 
crumbling  nature,  the  dust  during 
summer  is  almost  insupportable.  There 
is  also  another  and  a  greater  evil— the 
want  of  fresh  water ;  the  greater  part, 
indeed  nearly  all,  of  this  necessary  of 
life  is  brought  from  a  considerable 
distance  through  an  aqueduct.  Arte- 
sian borings  have  been  made  to  a 
depth  of  600  ft.,  but  the  water  in  the 
wells  is  rather  brackish.  Fuel  is  very 
scarce  and  dear. 

The  principal  promenade  is  the 
Boulevard,  where  a  military  band  per- 
forms several  times  a  week  during  the 
summer,  when  a  stranger  may  see  the 
^lite  of  the  place.  There  is  in  the 
centre  of  this  walk  a  bronze  statue  of 
the  Duke  de  Richelieu ;  he  is  looking 
towards  the  sea,  and  facing  the  mon- 
ster staircase  already  mentioned.  A 
monument  to  Prince  Woronzoff  will  be 
seen  in  the  square  next  to  the  Cathe- 
dral, in  which  he  is  buried.  His  house, 
a  princely  mansion,  is  on  the  cliff  at 
the  end  of  the  boulevard. 

At  the  other  extremity  of  this  is  the 
Exchange.  The  Theatre,  an  elegant 
stone  structure,  with  a  peristyle  sup- 
ported by  columns,  is  in  the  large 
square.  Italian  operas  and  Russian 
and  French  plays  are  performed  in  it 
throughout  the  year.  There  are  13 
Russo-Greek  chs.  at  Odessa,  and  no 
fewer  than  20  Jewish  synagogues  and 
schools. 

The  Cathedral  stands  conspicuously 
in  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  in  the 
middle  of  an  immense  square  sur- 
rounded by  trees  and  by  a  balustrade, 


in  which  are  four  gates  corresponding 
to  the  four  cardinal  points.  This  ch. 
is  of  considerable  size ;  it  is  built  in  the 
form  of  a  cross,  and  is  surmounted  by 
a  large  cupola.  Two  of  its  fa9ades 
present  fine  porticoes,  each  with  a  row 
of  columns.  The  interior  is  very  chaste, 
spacious,  and  elegant,  and  its  floor  is 
formed  of  white  and  grey  marble. 
Among  the  principal  buildings  in  the 
towi  may  be  mentioned  the  University 
of  New  Russia,  established  1865.  This 
was  formerly  the  Richelieu  Lyceum, 
founded  by  the  duke.  It  is  a  very  ex- 
tensive edifice,  and  in  the  form  of  an 
oblong  square,  divided  by  a  Une  of 
building  in  the  middle.  Some  of  the 
granaries  are  worthy  of  notice  ;  they 
are  remarkably  well  built  of  stone. 
That  of  Sabansky,  on  the  ravine,  is  of 
immense  extent,  and  has  an  imposing 
appearance  from  the  streets  looking 
towards  the  Quarantine,  which  was 
formerly  the  fortress.  The  Greek  and 
other  Bazaars  merit  attention,  parti- 
cularly to  a  person  landing  here ;  they 
afford  opportunities  for  observing  local 
and  national  peculiarities. 

Odessa  is  rich  in  public  institutitms, 
such  as  schools  and  hospitals.  The  I'uh- 
lic  Lihrarij,  close  to  the  statue  of  Riche- 
lieu, is  small,  but  well  chosen.  The  Mu- 
seum contains  many  objects  of  antiquity 
from  the  sites  of  ancient  Greek  colo- 
nies in  this  part  oftlie  world,  par- 
ticularly from  those  of  Olbia,  Kher- 
sonesus,  Panticapteum,  &c.  iic.  {Some 
of  the  vases  and  medals  are  worthy  of 
observation,  and  a  gold  one  of  the  time 
of  Alexander  is  in  remarkable  pre- 
servation. And  last,  thougli  not  least 
hi  interest,  is  a  japanned  fiat  candle- 
stick, once  the  property  of  the  philan- 
thropic Howard  ;  it  is  preserved  with 
great  care.  The  sight  of  this  relic 
will  call  up  a  host  of  feelings  connected 
with  the  remembrance  of  his  fate,  and 
emotions  of  admiration  and  respect  for 
his  unwearied  exertions  in  the  cause 
of  humanity.  Howard's  last  words  to 
his  friend  Priestmau  are  character- 
istic :— "  Let  no  monument  or  monu- 
mental inscription  whatsoever  mark 
the  spot  where  I  am  buried ;  lay  me 
quietly  in  the  earth,  place  a  sun-dial 
over  my  grave,  and  let  me  be  forgot- 


Russia.  Boute  13. — Moscow  to  Odessa  :  Serjpukhof. 

ten."  And  truly  this  remarkable  man 
seems  to  be  forgotten.  His  remains 
lie  mouldering  in  the  steppe  near 
Kherson,  and  those  who  pass  by  his 
tomb  are  alike  ignorant  of  his  virtues 
and  his  name.  ^ 

Odessa  enjoys  an  Eiahlissement  de 
Bains,  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Boule- 
vard, and  mineral  waters  are  sold  at 
an  establishment  in  the  town  garden. 
The  public  slaughtering-houses  are  on  a 
large  scale.  Many  thousands  of  cattle 
are  there  boiled  down  for  the  tallow. 
It  is  a  singular,  but  not  a  very  agree- 
able spectacle.  A  drive  to  the  race- 
course and  to  the  villas  on  the  sea- 
coast  should  be  undertaken  by  the 
traveller,  Al>out  2  m.  out  of  town  is 
a  fine  country-house  and  garden  which 
once  belonged  to  a  Count  RazmnopJci, 
wlio,  having  quarrelled  with  his  next 
f)f  kin,  purposely  squandered  his  for- 
tune in  excavating  vast  subterranean 
galleries  on  his  estate.  It  stands  next 
to  a  public  garden  which  was  once 
Riclielieu's,  and  its  present  proprietor 
is  Mr.  Zarifi,  a  Greek  merchant  at 
Odessa,  whose  permission  to  visit  the 
garden  will  be  easily  obtained.  An- 
other place  of  resort  out  of  town,  and 
particularly  in  the  evening,  is  the 
tountry  house  that  once  belonged  to 
Count  Langeron.  Music,  fire-works, 
itc,  are  provided  there  for  the  enter- 
tainment of  the  public.  There  is  also 
a  Botanical  Garden  outside  the  town, 
but,  as  said  before,  the  difticulties  of 
soil,  drought,  and  frost  are  higldy  in- 
jurious to  the  growth  of  plants.  Melons 
are  raised  in  the  gardens  in  the  en- 
virons of  the  city;  they  are  of  the 
most  delicious  flavour,  and  very  cheap. 

Divine  /Serme.— There  is  no  Eng- 
lish ch.  at  Odessa,  but  Uivnie  service  is 
l)erformed  on  Sundays  at  a  private 
liouse,  the  clergyman  being  supported 
partly  by  the  contributions  of  the  Bri- 
tish inhabitants,  who  are,  however, 
very  few  in  number. 

Consulate. — A  liritish  Consul-Gene- 
ral  resides  at  Odessa. 


253 


ROUTE  13. 

MOSCOW  TO  ODESSA,  BY  TULA,  ORET-. 
KURSK,  KHAHKOFF,  POLTAVA,  KKEMEX- 
CHUK,  ELIZAVETGHAD,  AND  liALTA. 

[A  great  portion  of  this  route  may 
now  be  made  by  rail.  Travellers  must 
inquire  before  leaving  Moscow  how  far 
the  lines  of  railway  have  been  pushed, 
and  they  can  then  decide  whether  it 
will  be  best  to  proceed  by  way  of  Kief, 
or  to  take  the  more  direct  route  bv 
way  of  Kharkoff,  Poltava,  Kremen- 
clmk,  Elizavetgrad,  and  Balta,  even  at 
the  cost  and  fatigue  of  making  several 
stages  by  post.  Until  the  Southern 
lines  are  completed,  it  is  impossible  to 
give  more  than  a  sketch  of  the  princi- 
pal towns  through  which  they  will 
pass,  especially  since  the  fares,  the 
time-tables,  and  other  conditions  of 
the  sections  already  opened  will  be 
liable  to  great  changes.] 

Serpukhof,  92  V.  from  Moscow  Stal . 
Bullet.  Town  very  prettily  situate<l. 
A  great  manufacturing  centre,  espe- 
cially of  cotton  prints.  Pop.  10,500. 
Inn  pretty  good.  From  the  earliest 
ages  Serpukhof  belonged  to  the  princes 
of  INIoscow,  but  the  fii-st  authentic 
mention  of  its  name  occurs  in  1328. 
In  1382  it  was  pillaged  by  Tokhtamysli 
on  his  march  to  Moscow,  and  in  1410 
it  was  again  sacked,  by  the  Prince  of 
liithuania.  Prince  John  Belski,  de- 
ceived l)y  Khan  Devlet  Ghirey,  per- 
mitted the  troops  of  the  latter,  number- 
ing 100,000,  to  approach  Serpukhof, 
which  was  at  that  time  occupied  by 
John  the  Terrible  and  hisOpritchniks 
(vide  Historical  Notice),  who  there- 
upon retired  to  Kolomna,  near  Moscow, 
while  Prince  Belski,  to  avoid  the  con- 
sequences of  his  error,  fled  to  Lithu- 
ania. The  town  walls,  which  will  be 
seen  on  an  elevation,  were  built  in  1556 


254 


Boute  IS.— Tuh, 


Sect.  II. 


and  have  a  circmnforcnce  of  about  500 
fms. 

TrxA. — 181  V.  from  Moscow.  Pop. 
10,500.  Hotels:  London,  opposite  Go- 
vernor's Honse ;  and  St.  Petersburg ; 
both  indifferent. 

Tula,  the  Russian  Birmingham  and 
Sheffield  combined,  is  situated  on  the 
small  Upa  river.  It  is  famed  for  its 
manufactories  of  fire-arms,  and  gene- 
rally for  its  hardware. 

The  province  in  which  it  is  situated 
was  in  the  earliest  ages  the  battk-liold 
of  the  Slavonians  and  their  enemies 
the  Khnzars,  Pechenegians,  and,  lastly, 
the  Tartars.  Hence  it  is  that  it  was 
but  little  populated,  and  its  towns 
have  preserved  but  few  records.  Tula 
is  first  mentioned  as  a  city  in  a  treaty 
of  peace  between  the  princes  of  Mos- 
cow and  Riazan  in  1383,  to  the  latter 
of  whom  it  belonged  until  the  first 
part  of  the  IGth  centy.  The  last  prince 
of  Riazan  having,  however,  been  sum- 
moned to  Moscow  in  151G  and  kept 
there  as  a  prisoner,  all  his  territories 
were  annexed  to  ^Muscovy.  In  the 
latter  part  ol"  the  IGth  centy.  Tula  was 
the  centre  of  a  line  of  defence  erected 
against  the  Tartars— a  line  which,  on 
one  side,  passed  through  Pronsk  to 
Riazan  and  Nijni-Xovgorod,  and  on 
the  other  through  Msensk  and  Kara- 
cheff  to  Briansk. 

Throughout  the  whole  of  the  IGth 
centy.  the  Crimean  Tartars  continually 
devastated  the  southern  l>orders  of 
Russia,  and  frequently  laid  waste  to 
the  lands  which  now  constitute  the 
province  of  Tula.  In  the  year  1552, 
more  particidarly,  Devlet  Ghirey  be- 
sieged the  town,  assisted  by  the 
Janissaries  of  the  Sultan,  but  was 
forced  to  retreat.  In  the  early  part 
of  the  17th  centy.  Tula  was  the  re- 
sort of  robbers  and  criminals,  who 
were  permitted  to  escape  thither  in 
order  that  they  might  populate  the 
province,  and  defend  it  against  in- 
vaders. A  celebrated  band  of  these 
outlaws  was  the  first  to  join  the  ranks 
of  Otrepief,  the  false  Demetrius,  in 
1605,  who  for  a  time  made  Tula  his 
capital.  Here  he  received  the  Ambas- 
sadors of  the  Council  of  Moscow,  and 


hither  were  brought  the  Treasury  and 
the  raiment  of  the  princes  of  Moscow. 
On  the  death  of  Otrepief,  when  a  report 
of  his  miracidous  preservation  was 
spread,  the  citizens  of  Tula  marched  in 
IGOG  (m  Moscow,  but  were  driven  back 
with  the  loss  of  their  leader,  I'ashkoft'. 
For  some  time  Tula  was  unsuccessfully 
besieged  by  the  Moscovite  troops.  At 
last  the  Tsar  Basil  appeared  before  its 
walls  in  person,  but,  still  meeting  with 
effectual  resistance,  the  besieging  army 
conceived  the  idea  of  reducing  the 
garrison  by  inundating  it  with  tlu^ 
waters  of  the  Upa.  A  dam  was  accord- 
ingly constructed  below  the  town,  and 
in  a  short  time  the  river  submerged  all 
but  the  highest  parts  of  it,  and  t\w 
inhabitants  were  obliged  to  come  out 
with  offers  of  submission.  The  i)rin- 
cipal  rebels  were  executed,  lleika,  an 
impistor,  who  gave  himself  out  as 
Peter,  sou  of  the  Tsar  Tlieotlore,  was 
hano^ed  near  the  Danilof  monasterv 
(vide  Moscow).  But  the  peace  thus 
restored  was  not  of  long  duration. 
Other  lawless  bands  succeeded,  led  by 
the  second  pretender,  known  as  "  the 
thief  of  Tushin."  They  tortiu-ed  and 
killed  the  inhabitants  for  their  loyalty 
to  the  Taar. 

The  last  military  event  in  connec- 
tion with  the  history  of  this  unfortu- 
nate t<^^)wn  occurred  in  1G13.  when  it 
was  burnt  to  the  ground  by  the  Poles. 
Its  peaceful  history  only  commences 
with  the  reign  of  the  Tsar  ^Michael, 

It  is  time,  however,  to  mention  t'nat 
the  town  of  which  the  history  has  been 
thus  sketched  existed  some  10  m.  to 
the  N.  of  the  present  site  of  Tula. 
Nothing  remains  f»f  the  old  citv,  and 
the  new  one  dates  only  from  the  )»e- 
gnming  of  the  18th  centy.,  when  Peter 
the  Great  turned  his  attention  to  the 
mineral  riches  and  industrial  develop- 
ment of  this  part  of  his  dominions. 
Although  the  more  recent  rise  of  Tida 
to  the  position  of  chief  town  of  a  pro- 
vince is  due  to  the  skill  of  its  inhabit- 
ants in  the  art  of  gun-making,  yet  the 
first  impulse  to  their  industry  was 
given  so  far  back  as  the  IGth  centy., 
when  iron-ore  was  discovered  in  the 
village  of  Dedilova,  20  m.  from  Tula. 
But  for  a  considerable  time  the  iron 


Kussia. 


Boute  13. — Tula. 


255 


produced  at  Dedilova  continued  to  1^ 
almost  useless  for  the  purpose  of 
making  weapons  of  war,  and  conse- 
quently iron  was  imported  from 
Sweden,  and  gun-barrels,  .swords,  and 
guns  from  England,  Germany,  and 
particularly  from  Holland. 

The  Dutch  were  the  first  to  esta- 
l)lish    iron   foundries    and   works    in 
Russia.     In    1553,  Akema,   a   Dutch- 
man, and  Marselius,  from  Hamburg, 
founded  several  iron-works  and  a  gun- 
factory,  and  in  1G33,  Winnis,  another 
Dutchman,  established  a  foundry,  and 
worked  the  metals  by  means  of  wat(  r- 
power,  near  the  site  of  the  old  town. 
More  than  600  artificers  were  brought 
from  foreign   countries,   to  teach   the 
Russians  the    art    of   making  guns, 
swords,  locks,  &c.    Successive  charters 
confirmed  and  extended  the  privileges 
granted    to    the    manufactories,   and 
from  1613  the  Tula  gunsmiths  began 
to   work    exclusively   for    the    State. 
Peter  the  Great  caused  a  great  num- 
ber of  young  men  to  be  sent  thither, 
and   to   be  kept   at   work  under  the 
strictest  discipline.    Small  works  were 
erected  by  tbi  Government  about  1707, 
but  they  were  bunied  down  in  1711. 
In  1712  works  on  a  larger  scale,  still 
extant,  were  commenced,  and  finished 
in  1718,  with   the   assistance  of  the 
Swedish  prisoners  taken  by  Peter,  who 
by  the  year  1720  had  11  GO  gunsmiths 
at  work,    producing   annually    15.000 
muskets,  2000  pairs  of  pistols,  and  1200 
pikes.      Twelve   years   previously,   or 
in  1685,  the  number  of  artificers  was 
only  122,  and  they  did  not  make  more 
than  244    arquebuses    and  culverins, 
many  of  which  may  be   seen  in  the 
Arsenal  Museum  at  St.   Petersburg, 
and  in  the  Treasury  at  Moscow.     But 
the  death  of  Peter  the  Great  was  a 
blow  to  the  trade,  from  which  it  only 
recovered  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  I., 
when  the    Government    arms-factory 
was  made  to    produce  about  13,000 
various  weapons    per    month    (1813- 
1814). 

Like  almost  all  Russian  towns,  Tula 
has  suffered  frequently  from  fires,  and 
particularly  in  1834,  when  a  large  por- 
tion of  its  inhab.  were  reduced  to 
beggary.   The  new  small-arms  factory, 


w^hich  is  well  worth  seeing,  was 
erected  under  the  superintendence  of 
Mr.  Trewheller,  an  Englishman,  who 
made  the  establishment  one  of  the 
first  in  Europe.  The  lathes  are  turned 
by  water,  which  runs  through  iron 
cylinders  large  enough  for  a  man  to 
walk  in  nearly  upright ;  and  by  means 
of  a  warming  apparatus,  the  working 
of  the  lathes  is  not  interrupted  by  any 
degree  of  frost.  In  addition  to  the 
government  factory,  there  are  many 
manufactories  of  sporting  guns,  and  a 
great  number  of  locksmiths,  the  total 
ntmiber  of  establishments  where  iron 
or  other  metal  is  worked  being  about 
200.  Large  quantities  of  cutlery  are 
made  at  Tula,  and  an  immense  trade 
is  carried  on  in  brass  tea-urns,  used 
almost  in  eveiy  Russian  house.  The 
Tula  ware  of  nieUo,  and  its  silver 
.snuff-boxes,  &c.,  have  long  been  cele- 
brated in  Europe. 

The  recent  discovery  of  coal  in 
the  province  of  Tula  and  the  con- 
tinued richness  of  its  iron-mines  pro- 
mise much  for  the  prosperity  of  the 
town,  especially  since  it  has  been 
made  a  station  on  the  Great  South- 
ern Railroad.  There  is  nothing  to 
interest  the  traveller  in  Tula  beyond 
its  manufactories,  excepting  perhaps 
the  old  walls  of  the  Kremlin,  parallel 
with  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Upa.  They 
were  constructed  in  1520,  in  place  of 
an  old  wootlen  fortification  erected 
loOy.  They  are  built  partly  of  stone 
and  partly  of  brick.  Catherine  II. 
caused  the  walls  to  be  surrounded  by 
a  dry  ditch  and  a  glacis,  one  fathom 
deep  and  2  fms.  broad.  The  wall 
antl  •  the  towers,  then  very  much 
decayed,  were  at  the  same  time  re- 
paired. 

Those  who  wish  to  study  the  coal 
measures  of  the  Moscow  basin  should 
make  an  excursion  from  Tula  in  the 
direction  of  the  village  of  Malefka, 
in  the  district  of  Epifan.  There  is  a 
post  road  to  Epifan,  and  from  that 
little  town  to  Malefka  the  distance  is 
about  25  versts.  The  village  belongs 
to  Count  Bobrinsky.  The  colliery  of 
Malefka,  which  is  superintended  by 
Dr.  Leo,  a  mining  engineer  from  Ger- 
I  many,  is  now  of  considerable  extent. 


256 


Eoute  13. — Orel, 


Sect.  II. 


It  will  aftbrd  great  interest  to  the 
geologist,  on  account  of  its  limestones, 
which  are  rich  in  very  peculiar  petri- 
factions, {Rhynconella  panderi,  Retzia 
tulensis,  Spirifer  inflatos,  sp.  amleatus, 
8p.  ano8  oj)i,  Froductiis  panderi,  pr. 
fallaXy  Michelinf'a  rossica,  &e.  The 
limestones  are  coiisiileretl  by  Russian 
geologists  to  be  Upper  I)ev(»nian. 
They  lie  imniediutcly  under  the  slate 
clays  of  the  coal  formation,  and  their 
fauna  is  a  transition  from  the  De- 
vonian fauna  to  that  of  mountain  lime- 
stone. 

Orel,  330  v.  S.W.  from  IMoscow. 
Pop.  43,000.  Junction  with  Riga, 
Dihiaburg,  and  Witebsk  RIy.  Hotels : 
there  are  two  hotels  at  Orel,  superior 
to  those  at  Tula.  Tiie  first  is  the  old 
Posting-house  in  Karachef-street,  and 
the  other  in  IJriansk-street.  The 
latter  is  pretty  fair.  Talysen's  cham- 
hres  tjarniea  are  much  frequented  l>y 
the  nobility  of  the  province.  There  is 
no  table  d'hote,  but  excellent  dinners 
may  be  had  at  the  Nobility  Club 
House.  Orel  is  the  chief  town  of 
the  province  bearing  the  same  name, 
and  is  a  very  important  centre  of 
trade.  Its  connection  by  rail  with 
Riga,  to  be  effected  l)y  1870,  will  still 
further  increase  the  advantages  of  its 
position.  It  is  situated  on  the  slopes 
of  a  somewhat  considerable  ravine 
at  the  June,  of  the  .small  river  Orlik 
with  the  Oka,  which  here  becomis 
navigable. 

Founded  by  John  the  Terrible, 
about  15G5,  for  the  defence  ot  the 
Grand  Duchy  of  Moscow  against  the 
Tartars,  it  was  removed  from  its  ori- 
ginal site  on  the  Orlik  to  its  present 
position  in  1G79,  after  a  great  fire.  Its 
reconstruction  was  superintended  by 
Jacob  Van  Frosten,  who  also  built  an 
earthen  wall  and  towens,  of  which  no 
traces  remain.  During  the  troubles 
at  Moscow  in  the  early  j)nrt  of  the 
17th  centy.,  Orel  took  the  side  of 
the  rebels,  and  in  lt»05  a  party  that 
had  declared  for  the  Tsar  was  seized 
by  the  adherents  of  the  Pretender,  and 
cast  into  prison.  In  1611,  however, 
when  the  I*oles  attempted  to  place 
their  Prince,  Wladislaus,  on  the  throne 


of  Muscovy,  the  citizens  of  Orel  swore 
allegiance  to  the  Tsar  Michael,  which 
led  to  the  town  being  sacked  by  the 
Poles.  But  Orel  has  suffered  less 
from  its  enemies  than  from  conflagra- 
tions, of  which  the  more  severe  took 
place  in  1G73,  1848,  and  1858.  In  the 
latter  year  more  than  GOO  houses, 
several  churches,  and  a  convent  were 
destroyed,  together  with  an  immense 
quantity  of  wheat  and  hemp. 

The  town  at  prestint  contains  9 
churches  of  the  Russo-Greek  faith,  of 
which  the  cathedral,  dedicated  to  the 
Apostles  Peter  and  Paul,  was  founded 
in  17U4,  at  the  cost  of  the  nobles  of  the 
province,  in  commemoration  of  tht;  co- 
ronation of  the  Emperor  Paul,  but  was 
only  finally  consecrated  in  1861.  The 
bishops  of  Orel  reside  in  a  palace  which 
was  formerly  a  monastery,  suppressed 
1819.  There  are  also  a  Lutheran  and 
a  Roman  Catholic  Chapel.  The  Cjo.^- 
tinnoi  Dvor  or  Bazaar  is  a  handsome 
and  extensive  building.  Orel  possesses 
a  theatre,  presented  to  the  town  by 
Count  Levashoff,  on  condition  of  its 
revenues  Ix^ing  appropriated  to  the 
suj)port  of  an  asylum ;  also  a  public 
library  and  a  public  garden  of  nearly 
20  acres.  The  finest  buildings  in  the 
town  are  the  Courts  of  Law  (founded 
1846),  the  Governor's  house  (1783), 
the  Assembly-house  of  the  nobility 
(1823),  and  a  military  gymnasium. 

Much  of  the  tjdlow  and  hemp  ex- 
l)orted  from  Russia  comes  from  Orel 
and  its  neighbourhood.  The  yearly 
transactions  of  Orel  in  wheat  amount 
to  al>out  1  million  roubles.  It  is 
brought  there,  for  sale  and  shipment 
down  the  Oka,  from  the  neighbouring 
provinces  of  Tula  and  Voronej,  but 
j>iirticularly  from  Kursk,  The  sales 
of  hemp  and  liemp-yarn  liki;wise  re- 
present more  than  a  million  of  roubles 
jKir  annum,  the  raw  material  being 
grown  principally  in  the  province  of 
Orel,  and  partly  in  that  of  Tula.  Lin- 
seed oil,  purchase<l  in  the  provinces  of 
Orel,  Tula,  and  Kursk,  is  an  article 
of  some  importaTice  in  the  trade  of 
Orel,  its  annual  sales  representing  half 
a  million  roubles. 

Large  quantities  of  cattle  are  driven 
to    Orel    from   Voronej,    Kursk,   and 


Russia. 


Bouie  13. — Kiirsh 


257 


other  southern  districts;  they  are 
partly  melted  down  for  tallow,  and 
partly  disposed  of  at  Moscow.  Can- 
dles and  soap  are  largely  manu- 
factured out  of  the  tallow.  There 
is  also  a  considerable  trade  in  timber 
and  salt. 

Hitherto  the  extensive  commerce 
of  Orel  has  had  two  outlets,  one  by 
land,  the  other  by  water  down  the 
Oka.  The  goods  despatched  down 
the  Oka  are  destined  to  be  discharged 
at  Kaluga,  Serpukhof,  Kolomna,  Mu- 
rom, Nijni-Novgorod,  Rybinsk,  and  in 
part  at  St.  Petersburg,  with  which  the 
water  communication  is  uninterrupted. 
By  land,  the  produce  of  Orel  is  sent  to 
Moscow,  and  to  the  stations  on  the 
rivers  of  the  province  of  Smolensk,  for 
despatch  to  Riga  and  St.  Petersburg. 
The  completion  of  the  line  to  Witebsk 
and  Riga  must  necessarily  change  the 
character  and  direction  of  tlie  large 
trade  of  this  town.  Fairs  are  held 
3  times  a  yetir  :  between  the  6th  and 
20th  January,  the  8th  and  31st  Sep- 
tember (O.S.),  and  during  the  5th  and 
6th  weeks  after  Easter.  The  first  fair 
is  the  least  considerable.  The  bazaar 
or  market  days  are  Sundays  and 
Fridays.  After  the  gathering  of  the 
harvest  as  many  as  10,000  carts  enter 
the  town  daily,  laden  with  wheat, 
hemp,  linseed,  &c. 

Kursk,  488  v.  S.  of  Moscow.  Pop. 
28,000.  Junction  of  Kursk-Kief  rly. 
Vide  route  to  Odessa.  Hotel:  Polto- 
ratsky's,  in  Moscow-street. 

Tiie  town  is  very  prettily  situated 
on  the  river  Tuskor,  near  its  junction 
with  the  Seim.  The  Kur,  an  afflu- 
ent of  the  Tuskor,  likewise  flows  past 
the  town.  The  gardens  that  abound 
at  Kursk  give  it  a  very  picturesque  ap- 
pearance. Being  in  tlie  centre  of  a 
rich  agricultural  district,  a  consider- 
able trade  in  grain,  tallow, hemp,  &c.,  is 
carried  on,  much  of  the  produce  being 
sold  at  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow. 
Fairs  are  held  on  the  23rd  April  (O.  S.), 
and  during  the  10th  week  after  Easter ; 
the  market-days  are  Mondays  and 
Fridays.  Two*  very  large  fairs  (Ko- 
rennaya)  are  held  at  a  spot  27  v.  from 
Kursk,  on  the  9th  Friday  after  Easter 


and  on  the  8th  (20th)  Sept.  of  each 
year. 

History. — Records  attest  the  exist- 
ence of  Kursk  in  1032,  and  in  1095  the 
town  is  mentioned  as  being  in  the  pos- 
session of  Isiaslaf,  son  of  Vladimir 
Monomachus.  From  its  foundation  to 
the  Tartar  conquest,  Kursk  passed 
from  the  Princes  of  Chernigoff  to  those 
of  Pereiaslavl,  and  suffered  much  from 
internecine  wars,  and  from  the  incur- 
sions of  the  Polovtses.  One  of  tliese 
incursions,  repelled  by  Igor  Sviatosla- 
vitch,  in  conjunction  with  Wsewolod 
of  Kursk  and  other  princes,  is  the 
subject  of  an  ancient  poem,  well  known 
throughout  Russia.  In  the  13th  centy. 
the  Tartars  destroyed  the  town  en- 
tirely. It  was  fortified  in  1586,  with 
other  places  on  the  southern  frontier  of 
Muscovy;  and  from  that  time  to  the 
middle  of  the  17th  centy.  it  met  with 
great  disasters  at  the  hands  of  the 
rebels  (1612),  the  Crim  Tartars  (1600, 
1615,  and  1645),  and  lastly  the  Poles 
in  1634.  The  fortress,  of  which  oidy 
a  portion  of  the  wall  is  extant,  was 
erected  along  the  edge  of  a  sloping 
hill,  washed  by  the  waters  of  the 
Tuskor  and  Kur,  and  having  the  ap- 
pearance of  a  triangle.  It  was  pro- 
tected on  two  sides  by  those  rivers, 
and  on  the  other  by  a  deep  ditch, 
closed  in  1783,  and  since  converted 
into  the  "  Krasnaya  "  or  red  (beautiful) 
square. 

There  are  19  churches  of  stone 
within  the  town;  the  cath.  was  built 
in  1733,  and  the  ch.  dedicated  to 
St.  Sergius  in  1762.  The  latter  con- 
tains a  copy  of  the  Gospels  printed  in 
1698.  -In  the  Ch.  of  the  Annuncia- 
tion, built  1754,  is  a  silver  cross,  sent 
by  the  Tsar  Michael.  The  ch.  next 
in  importance  is  that  of  St.  Elias,  built 
1768.  There  is  also  a  Lutheran  ch. 
in  Kursk,  as  well  as  a  monastery  and  a 
convent.  The  monastery,  called  the 
Bogoroditslcy  -  Znamenshy  (Apparition 
of  Virgin;  was  founded  in  1612  by  the 
citizens  of  Kursk  to  commemorate  the 
retreat  of  the  Polish  Hetman  JolkevsM. 
who  had  threatened  to  pillage  the 
town.  It  was,  however,  burnt  down 
by  the  Poles  in  1634  and  1649,  and 
was  not  entirely  restored  until  1680, 


258 


Eoute  13. — Klmrkoff, 


Sect.  II. 


by  the  contributions  of  the  charitable, 
and  particularly  by  the  bounty  of 
Prince  Gregory  Romadanofsky.  The 
cathedral  within  it  contains  a  holy 
image  held  in  great  veneration — that 
of  the  Apparition  of  the  Holy  Virgin 
— an  event  that  took  place  at  a  monas- 
tery called  Koreimaya,  27  v.  from 
Kursk,  founded  1597,  and  where  a 
great  fair  is  yearly  held.  Immense 
crowds  follow  the  procession  of  the 
holy  image  to  that  place,  and  the  latter 
remains  there  from  the  9th  Friday 
after  Easter  to  the  12th  (24th,  Sept. 

This  image  is  reputed  to  have  been 
found  by  the  inhabitants  of  tlie  neigh- 
bouring'town  of  Rylsk,  on  the  8th  (20th) 
Sept.  1295,  in  a  wood  on  the  banks  of 
the  Tuskor  It  was  discovered  resting 
on  the  roots  of  a  tree,  and  fruitlessly 
did  the  go<^)d  citizens  endeavour  to 
keep  it  at  Rylsk;  it  always  returned, 
until  they  were  forced  to  keep  it  in  a 
chapel  on  the  very  place  of  its  appear- 
ance, during  a  perioil  of  302  years. 
When  at  last  the  monastery  was 
founded,  it  was  dejx)sited  there,  but  in 
1G15  removed  to  Kursk. 

There  are  many  public  buildings  on 
a  large  scale  at  Kmsk,  such  as  several 
gymnasia,  an  hcspital,  a  lunatic  asy- 
lum, and  a  house  of  correction.  A 
large  public  garden  attached  to  the 
latter  establishment  is  the  favourite 
promenade  of  the  inhabitants  of  Kursk. 
It  was  presented  to  the  town  by  one 
of  its  former  governors,  Paul  Demidoflf. 

The  rly.  hence  to  Kharkoff  will  be 
open  for  traffic  in  1869. 

Khakkoff,  G97  v.  from  Moscow,  and 
209  V.  from  Kursk.     Pop.  52,000. 

Hotel :  '•  Vienne,"  in  Moscow  Street, 
close  by  the  bridge  overlooking  the 
river.     German  spoken. 

History. — The  town  of  Kharkoff,  now 
the  seat  of  government  of  a  province  of 
the  same  name,  was  founded  about 
1650  by  a  band  of  Cossacks,  of  wliom 
the  chief,  Khariton,  is  popularly  sup- 
posed to  have  given  it  its  present 
appellation,  although  the  anterior  ex- 
istence of  a  rivulet  in  the  \'icinity 
bearing  the  same  name  is  cited  by 
others  in  refutation  of  that  theory. 

Its  history  is  however  far  more  an- 


cient, as  attested  by  innumerable  tumuli 
and  ruins,  mentioned   by   chroniclers 
even  in  the  16th  centy.,  as  well  as  by 
the  "  babi "  or  carved  idols  of  stone,  and 
the  coins  both  of  ancient  Rome  and  of 
the  Khalifs,  found  in  great  quantities 
throughout   tlie    province   of    Khark- 
off, and  particularly  along  the  banks 
of    its    rivers.      Remarkable    images, 
or    idols    of    stone,    arc     found    fx- 
clusively  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
province,  and  continue  to  be  met  with 
in   the  neighbouring    district  of  the 
province  of  P^katerinoslaf,   while   the 
tumuli  occur  in  greatest  numbers   at 
the  southern  and  eastern  extremities 
of  the  province  which  the  traveller 
will  now  have  reached.    From  the  posi- 
tion in  which  these  monumeuta  ilUte- 
rata  have  been  discovered  it  is  argued 
by   archaeologists  that   the   southern 
and  part  of  the  western  district  of  tho 
province  were  anciently  populated  by 
two  distinct  races  which  made   war 
upon  each  other,  causing  tho  inhabit- 
ants of  th(>  western  and  northern  banks 
of  the  rivers  Donets,  Vorskla,  and  Psla 
to  protect  tliemselves  from  incursions 
by  earthworks.     Some  of  the  more  an- 
cient names  of  places  may  be  traced  to 
the  Khazars,  and  others  to  the  Tartars, 
by  lx>th  of  whom  Russia  was  overrun 
in  remote   ages.      At   all   events   the 
races  that  iniiabited  the  province  of 
Kharkoff,  and  whose  existence  has  left 
traces  from  the  Enisei  in  Siberia  to  the 
foot  of  the  Caucasus  and  the  moutlis 
of  the  Dniepr,  must  have  passed  away 
before  tlie  Christian  era,  for  a  Roman 
writer  of  the  fourth  centy.  after  Christ, 
while  speaking  of  the  Huns,  compares 
their  faces  to  the  "  roughly-hewn  |)osts 
with  the  face  of  a  man,  such  as  may 
be  seen  on  the  shores  of  the  Pontus 
Euxinus."     Tiie  discovery  of  coins  of 
Octsu'ius  (Augustus)  and  of  numerous 
ancient   weapons    near    the    town   of 
Chuguef  (36  v.  from  Kharkoff;  esta- 
blishes the  fact  of  an  early  intercourse 
with    Rome,  whih;  the  coins  of  tke 
Khalifs  found  near  Sumi '  187  v.  from 
Kharkoff)  prove  the  existence  of  an 
early  mercantile  connection  with  Ara- 
bia. 

Panslavists  assert  that  the  whole  of 
the  countrv  under  considemti(jn  was 


Eussia. 


Boute  13. — Kharkoff. 


259 


peopled  by  Slavonian  races  before  it 
began  to  be  mentioned  by  Greek  and 
Roman    writers,    but   more  impartial 
authorities  are  of  opinion  that  ?t  any 
rate  the  south-eastern  portion  of  the 
present  province  of  Kharkoff  was  the 
camping-ground   of  ancient    nomadic 
tribes,  particularly  of  the  Khazars,  who 
established  their  power  from  the  banks 
of  the  Caspian  to  the  very  borders  of 
Kief,  the  Norman  princes  of  which  at 
last  drove  the  barbarians  back.     The 
northern  Donets   is   frequently   men- 
tioned by  old  Russian  chroniclers  when 
relating  the  wars  of  the  Polovtses  and 
the  Petchenegians.     Many  towns  ex- 
isted in  its  immediate  vicinity,  and  are 
mentioned  prior  even  to  the  11th  centy. 
In  the  13th  centy.  the  province  of 
Kharkoff  became  the  high-road  of  the 
Tartar  invaders  of  Russia,  who,  by  their 
long  possession  of  the  country,  gave 
many  of  tiie  localities  and  rivers  their 
present  names.    But  after  their  great 
defeat  at  Kulikovo,  in  the  14th  centy., 
outposts  or  posts  of  observation  began 
to  be  established  on  the  Klioi>ra  and  the 
Don,  and  later  still  the  watershed  of  the 
northern  Donets  and  the  Oskol  is  fre- 
quently mentioned  as  the   battlefield 
of  the  Russians  and  the  Tartars  of  the 
Crimea,  who,  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
15th  centy.,  followed  m  the  footsteps 
of  the  more  ancient  enemies  of  liussia, 
the  Tartars  of  the  Golden  Horde,  in- 
habiting the  shores   of  the    Caspian. 
In  the  16th  centy.  those  outposts  were 
pushed  on  far  beyond  the  confines  of 
the  present  province  of  Kharkoff,  and 
a   regular  fortress,  no  longer  extant, 
was  at  last  built  in  1598  at  the  junction 
of  the  Oskol  with  the  Donets!     From 
that  time  the  country  watered  by  those 
rivers  began  to  be  populated,  but  dis- 
sensions   with    the    Poles    in    Little 
Russia,  and  the  turbulent  events  at 
Moscow  that  preceded  the  election  of 
the  Tsar  Michael, once  more  threatened 
to  arrest  its  natural  development. 

In  1638  a  disaffected  band  of  Little 
Russians,  then  subject  to  Poland,  were 
permitted  to  place  themselves  under 
the  allegiance  of  the  Tsar  of  Mos- 
covy,  and  were  by  him  established 
at  Chuguef.  These  emigrants  were 
followed  by  others,  who  undertook  the 


defence  of  the  southern  frontiers  of 
Moscovia,  and  for  that  purpose  were 
banded  together  under  a  military  or 
Cossack  form  of  government.  The 
pretensions  of  Poland  to  this  province 
were  renounced  l)y  a  formal  treaty  in 
1647,  which  considerably  increased  the 
emigration  from  Little  Russia,  and  led 
to  the  establishment  of  many  towns, 
amongst  which  was  Kharkoff,  near  the 
junction  of  the  Kharkoff  and  Lopani 
rivers. 

The    ancient    fortress  of    Kharkoff 
was   of   oak,    and    round    it    was    a 
moat  two  fms.  in  breadth  and  depth. 
Later  it  was  armed  with  10  cast-iron 
guns  and  1  of  brass,  while  its  ammuni- 
tion consisted  of  8  barrels  of  gunpowder, 
402  shells,  and  8  rolls  of  lead.     TJic 
defence  of  the  town  was  intrusted  t< »  a 
regiment  of  Circassian  Cossacks,  who 
had  likewise  emigrated  to  these  parts. 
The  dissensions  in  Little  Russia  that 
followed  on  the  death  of  the  celebrated 
Bogdan  Khmelnitsky  once  more   dis- 
turbed the  peace  of  Kharkoff,  for  in 
1668  the  Hetman  Briuhovitsky,  having 
raised  the  Cossacks  of  Little  Russia, 
summoned  all  the  Cossacks  of  the  Don 
and  of  the  settlements  around  Kharkoff 
to  join  him  in  his  rebellion  against  the 
Tsar    of   Muscovy,  then    accused    of 
desiring  to  transfer  the  Cossacks  to  the 
Crown   of  Poland.     The  garrison   of 
Kharkoff  refused  to  join  the   rebels, 
who,  however,  penetrated  into  the  town 
and  besieged  the  fortress,  which  was 
at   last  relieved   from  Chuguef.      For 
their  loyalty  the  Cossacks,  or  regiment 
of  Kharkott;  received  several  privileges 
and  immunities  in  1669.     In  the  war 
that  followed  they  took  a  prominent 
part,  and,  for  the  defence  of  their  co- 
lonies,   erected    a   wall  between   the 
Kolomak  and  Mja,  and  several  new  for- 
tifications on  the  Donets,  the  principal 
of  which,  called  Izium,   subsequently 
became  head-quartcu's  of  the  regiment, 
and  ultimately  gave  it  its  name. 

Between  1679  and  1680  the  Khan  of 
the  Crimea  broke  through  the  fortifica- 
tions of  Valki,  a  town  51  v.  from  Khar- 
koff, and,  after  devastating  the  countiy 
up  to  the  walls  of  Belgorod,  returned  in 
safety,  although  pursued  and  partly 
beaten  by  the  Cossacks  of  Kharkoff. 


2G0 


Route  13. — Poltava. 


Sect.  IT. 


Ill  1603, 15,000  Taiiars  and  Janissaries 
croi^std  the  borders  of  the  "  Kharkoff 
regiment,"  and  laid  waste  to  the  out- 
skirts of  the  town,  but  they  wore  sub- 
sequently driven  baek  with  great  loss — 
a  victory  for  wliich  the  Kharkovitcs 
obtained  a  new  charter  and  2  guns  from 
the  Tsar.  These  inroads  were  continued 
even  in  the  ISth  centy..  principally  be- 
cause the  Cossacks  of  Kliarkoif' refused 
to  assist  Mazeppa  or  the  rebel  Bulaviii. 
Philip  Orlik,  proclaimed  Hetman,  in 
Turkey,  after  the  death  of  Mazeppa, 
induced  the  Khan  of  the  Crimea  to 
invade  the  colonies  of  the  Cossacks 
with  50,000  men,  who  were  accompanied 
in  thjit  expedition  by  the  Zaporogian 
Cossacks  (or  Cossacks  from  beyond  the 
raj)ids  of  the  Don),  and  by  robber  bands 
formed  of  the  remnants  of  the  defeated 
followers  of  Bulavin.  The  work  of 
j)illage  and  destruction  was  continued 
until  1720,  when  the  Khan  witlidrew. 
No  enemy  has  since  molested  the  in- 
habitants of  Kliarkoif,  whose  military 
organization  was  reformed  witli  that  of 
otlier  Cossack  towns  in  the  same  pro- 
vince in  1705,  when  it  was  also  made 
the  capital  of  the  Ukraine. 

Trade  and  prosperity  have  since  esta- 
blished the  importance  of  Kharkotf, 
now  one  of  the  principal  centres  of 
trade  in  Russia.  It  has  an  immense 
trade  in  wool,  and  four  fairs  are  annu- 
ally held  there — the  "  Krestchenskaya," 
or  Epiphany  fair,  opened  on  the  0th 
(18th)  January,  being  one  of  the 
most  imix)rtant  in  Russia.  In  1803 
goods  to  the  amount  of  2i  or  3  mil- 
lions sterling  were  brought  to  that  lair, 
the  textile  fabrics  alone  representing  a 
value  of  about  a  million  sterling.  The 
wool  sales  take  place  exclusively  at 
the  Trinity  fair,  in  June.  Btizaars  or 
markets  are  moreover  held  on  Sun- 
days, Wednesdays,  and  Fridays.  They 
are  particularly  active  immediately 
before  Christmas  and  Easter. 

Kharkoff  is  likewise  a  seat  of  learn- 
ing's it  possesses  a  university,  founded 
in  1805,  and  frequented  by  600  students. 
It  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  town, 
the  principal  building  having  been  for- 
merly a  palace  of  the  Empress  Cathe- 
rine II.  Tlie  scientific  collections  are 
kept  in  that  building,  but  the  library, 


containing  55,000  vols,,  is  on  the  other 
side  the  street.  The  Zoological  Cabinet 
contains  a  valuable  collection  of  the 
birds  of  S.  Russia  and  of  the  fishes  of 
the  Black  Sea. 

In  the  north  part  of  the  town  is  a 
Veterinary  College,  conducted  on  a  very 
liberal  scale  and  well  worthy  of  a  visit, 
as  is  also  the  Government  Model  Farm, 
about  a  mile  out  of  Kharkofi*,  esta- 
blished 1847.  The  environs  of  the 
town  are  very  picturesque,  and  the  view 
from  the  "  Cold  ■Mountains,"  or  still  bet- 
ter from  the  lower  part  of  Ekaterinoslaf- 
street,  is  one  of  the  most  striking  that 
can  possibly  be  imagined.  There  is 
also  a  large  public  garden,  tiie  Chinese 
pagoda  in  which  was  erected  at  an  ex- 
pense of  30,000  rubles. 

A  i-ailwuy  will  be  completed  in  1870 
from  Kharkott*  to  Taganrog  and  Ros- 
tof,  on  the  Sea  of  Azof,  and  it  is 
probable  that  until  then  travellers 
inoceeding  to  Odessa  by  the  route  now 
being  described  will  have  to  post  from 
Kharkoff  to  tiie  nearest  rly.  station  ot 
the  line  which  is  being  pushed  on  east- 
wards from  Balta.  It  must  be  reserved 
for  the  next  edition  of  this  Handbook 
to  give  a  more  minute  description  of 
one  unbroken  line  of  rail  from  St. 
Petersburg  to  Odessa,  the  present  break 
in  that  line  being  between  Kursk  an<l 
Elizavetgrad  {vide  the  map). 

Poltava,  842  v.  from  Moscow.  Pop. 
28,000. 

Hotels :  H.  de  St.  Petersbourg ;  H. 
de  Paris  ;  H.  d' Italic. 

History. — Very  little  is  known  of  the 
early  history  of  this  town  beyond  that 
it  was  called  Stava  in  the  12th  centy., 
and  that  it  was  destroved  by  the  Tar- 
tars in  the  early  part  of  the  13th  centy. 
Known  later  as  Platava,  Oltava,  and 
Poltava,  it  was  given  in  1430  as  an 
apjjanage  to  Lexada,  a  small  Tartar 
prince,  ancestor  of  the  princes  of 
Glinsk,  who  became  related  to  the 
princes  of  Moscow  through  Helen 
(irlinskaya,  mother  of  John  the  Terri- 
ble. By  other  authorities  the  antiquity 
of  Poltava  is  denied,  and  its  origin  is 
traced  to  the  year  1608,  when  it  became 
the  settlement  of  some  Cossack  families. 
But  it  is  probable  that  both  accounts 


EuRsia. 


Route  13. — Poltava. 


261 


are  equally  correct,  for  the  older  in- 
habitants still  speak  of  the  old  and  the 
new  town,  the  former  being  situated 
on  an  eminence  about  a  mile  from  the 
river  Vorskla,  and  on  which  a  cathe- 
dral, built  in  1770,  and  a  ch.  erected 
1707,  will  be  seen.  The  new  town 
occupies  a  splendid  position  on  another 
high  iiill.  and  the  river  flows  between 
the  two  hills  and  through  the  marshy 
plain  to  the  wood  beyond.  During 
the  revolt  of  the  CJossacks  under  B(>g- 
dan  Khmelnitsky,  Poltava  became  a 
regimentiil  town — a  character  which  it 
lost  in  1704  when  the  Hetmanate  was 
abolished. 

The  battle  of  1709  was  fought  in  a 
plain  about  4  m.  S.W.  of  the  town.  A 
mound  of  earth  about  40  ft.  in  height, 
sm-mounted  by  a  cross,  covers  the 
bodies  of  the  Swedes  who  fell,  and 
serves  to  mark  the  centre  of  the  field. 
An  iron  colimm  in  the  town  itself 
commemorates  the  defeat  of  Charles 
XII. 

The  present  province  of  Poltava,  like 
that,  in  great  part,  of  Kursk  and  Kher- 
son, anciently  constituted  the  princi- 
l>ality  of  Pereyaslavl,  later  known  as 
the  Ukraine.  Traces  of  old  earth  works 
and  innumemble  tumuli  are  found 
throughout  the  province  of  Poltava: 
the  most  considerable  of  the  former 
may  still  be  seen  in  the  vicinity  of 
Gadiatch,  a  district  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
town  of  Poltava.  It  is,  however,  ditli- 
cult  to  distinguish  the  more  ancient 
ruins  from  those  of  a  comparatively 
recent  period,  due  to  wars  with  Lithu- 
anians, Poles,  and  Swedes.  The  Tartars 
likewise  gave  many  appellations  to 
villages,  but  these  are  more  generally 
called  after  names  given  to  them  by 
the  Lithuanians  and  Poles  during  their 
possession  of  Little  Russia. 

When  Guedemin  of  Lithuania  took 
Kief  in  the  14th  centy.,  the  country  in 
which  tlie  traveller  will  now  have  ar- 
rived was  annexed  to  Lithuania ;  and 
when  the  union  between  Poland  and 
Lithuania  was  effected  in  1380,  Little 
Russia  acquired  the  same  civil  and 
religious  rights  as  were  enjoyed  by  the 
Poles  themselves.  In  1476  Casimir 
established  Voevodes  and  Castellains  in 
the  towns  and  villages  of  the  Ukraiue, 


whose  oppression,  according  to  Russian 
accounts,  led  to  the  establishment  of 
Cossack  bands  who  migrated  beyond 
the  rapids  of  tlie  Dniepr,  and  whose 
descendants  are  now  known  as  the  Za- 
porogian Cossacks.  The  new  colonies, 
attacked  in  their  turn  by  hordes  from 
the  Crimea,  were  forced  to  unite  under 
a  military  organization,  which  was 
subsequently  governed  by  a  Hetman, 
elected  with  the  sanction  of  Sigis- 
mund  I.,  King  of  Poland,  who  endowed 
the  Cossacks  with  lands  on  both  sides 
of  the  Dniepr. 

They  were  thus  divided  into  the 
Zaporogian  and  Ukraine  Cossacks,  the 
latter  occupying  lands  in  the  present 
province  of  I'oltava,  and  partly  in  those 
of  Kief  and  Podolia,  and  consisting  of 
20  regiments.  These  military  bands 
soon  became  the  ten  or  of  the  Tartars, 
and  later  still  stood  up  in  defence  of 
their  religion,  that  of  the  Greek  Church, 
which  was  endangered  by  the  intoler- 
ance of  the  Jesuits.  The  famous  re- 
bellion under  Bodgan  Khmelnitski  in 
the  17th  centy.  resulted  in  a  treaty  of 
peace  with  Poland  in  1050,  and  led  to 
the  annexation  of  Little  Russia  to 
Russia  Proper  in  1654.  The  Hetman- 
ate was  preserved  until  1764,  when 
the  administration  was  brought  into 
uniformity  with  that  existing  in  other 
provinces  of  the  empire. 

But  liittle  Russia  remained  for  some 
time  longer  subject/ to  the  depredations 
of  the  Tartars,  until  the  Ulcraine  line  o/ 
defence  was  commenced  in  the  reign  of 
Peter  the  Great  along  an  extent  of  400 
V.  from  the  Dniepr  to  the  Donets,  and 
finished  in  1732.  The  fortifications 
and  earthworks  on  that  line  were  de- 
fended by  20,000  Cossacks,  but  Little 
Russia  was  not  finally  freed  from  the 
incursions  of  the  Tartars  until  Cathe- 
rine II.  subjected  the  Crimea  to  her 
rule. 

As  a  place  of  trade  Poltava  occupies 
a  very  prominent  position  among 
Russian  towns,  principally  on  accomit 
of  the  fair  (Ilyinskaya)  held  there  on 
the  10th  July  (O.  S.)  of  each  year,  and 
lasting  one  month.  The  average  value 
of  the  goods  carried  to  this  great  com- 
mercial gathering  is  estimated  at  about 
3i   millions  sterling ;  the  number  of 


262 


Boute  13. — Kremenchuk — Elizavetgrad.  Sect.  II. 


carts  which  bring  tliem  from  Moscow, 
Odessa,  Kharkoff,  Kursk,  and  Voronej 
being  more  than  20,000.  Kussian 
manufactures  are  much  sold,  but  wool 
is  the  great  staple  of  trade.  Horses, 
cattle,  and  sheep  are  likewise  bought 
and  sold  in  great  numbers  at  that  fair. 
Poltava  has  also  long  been  celebrated 
for  its  leeclies,  found  in  neighbouring 
pools  and  morasses,  and  despatched 
across  the  whole  length  of  the  con- 
tinent for  exportation. 

Kremenchuk,  955  v.  from  Moscow  ; 
113  V.  S.W.  from  Poltava.     Pop.  36.000. 

Hotel :  tlje  Posting-house,  tolerable. 

This  pretty  and  thriving  town  is 
situated  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Dniepr, 
which,  by  overflowing  in  1820,  1844, 
1 845,  and  1850,  committed  groat  ravages. 
The  northern  part  of  the  town  is  pro- 
tected from  inundation  by  2  dams  at 
Kriushi  village.  Two  other  small 
streams  flow  through  one  end  of  the 
town,  whicli  is  supposed  to  have  been 
founded  in  1571.  It  was  burnt  down 
in  1663  during  the  revolt  of  the  Cos- 
sacks, and  two  years  later  it  was  oc- 
cupied by  a  Russian  detachment.  In 
1765  Kjemenchuk  was  made  the  pro- 
vincial town  of  New  Russia,  and  at 
that  time  the  celebrated  Prince  Potera- 
kin  of  the  Taurida  lived  there  in  a 
palace  of  which  only  tlie  foundations 
can  now  be  traced.  Fires  occurred 
in  1848,  1852.  and  1856.  Nothing  is 
left  of  the  old  fortress  or  earthwork 
built  by  the  Poles  in  the  17th  centy. 
There  are  five  churches  of  tlie  Russo- 
(ireek  faith,  of  which  the  cathedral 
was  built  1813.  The  finest  houses  are 
the  Head-quarters  of  the  Inspector  of 
the  Cavalry  of  Reserve  and  the  "  In- 
valides."  The  Town-hall  is  in  the 
old  Gothic  style  of  architecture.  The 
river  runs  at  a  very  rapid  rate  opposite 
the  town,  and  is  passed  in  ferry-boats. 

A  large  trade  is  carried  on  hence  in 
tallow,  salt,  grain,  beetroot,  sugar,  &c. ; 
and  the  town  is  a  great  emporium  of 
the  raw  and  half-manufactured  pro- 
duce brought  down  the  Dniepr  from 
the  provinces  through  which  that  river 
flows,  and  overland  from  Voronej, 
Smolensk,  Orel,  Kursk,  and  Little 
Russia.    Between  1859  and  1862  the 


average  annual  amount  of  produce 
shipped  at  Kremenchuk  was  as  fol- 
lows : — 

Salt 1,375,820  pouds. 

Grain ,     ,  3^2,248      „ 

Tallow,  candles,  and  soap     .  48.252     „ 

Wool 21,668      „ 

Linseed 41,6f<0     „ 

Fairs  are  held  on  the  30th  January 
(during  14  days\24th  June  (11  days), 
and  1st  Sept.  (,10  days);  all  old  style. 
In  1862  the  sales  at  these  fairs  amounted 
to  85,000/.,  and  the  value  of  the  goods 
brought  to  about  110,000/. 

The  rly.  hence  to  Baltu  and  Odessa 
will  be  open  in  the  latter  part  of  1869. 

Steamers  ply  in  summer  between 
Kremenchuk  and  Kief. 

Elizavetgrad,  1071  v.  from  Moscow, 
and  116  v.  from  Kremenchuk.  Pop. 
24.000. 

Hotel. — As  the  rly.  from  Balta  will 
lead  to  the  estal)lishment  of  better 
inns,  inquire  at  the  rly.  stat. 

This  town  was  founded  in  1754  by 
Colonel  Hosvat,  a  Servian,  acting  un- 
der the  orders  of  the  Empress  Eliza- 
beth, after  whom  it  was  originally 
called  the  "  Fortress  of  St.  Elizabeth." 
The  fortress  was  demolished  in  1805, 
Situated  on  the  sloping  Steppe  de- 
clivities of  the  valley  of  the  Ingul, 
Elizavetgrad  has  a  very  pleasing  ap- 
pearance, and  is  well  built.  It  lias  a 
"  Great  Perspective '"  street,  full  of 
shops  and  a  boulevard  of  white  acacias. 
In  tlie  suburb  of  Kovalevka  are  many 
houses  of  the  neighbouring  gentry. 
It  is  separated  from  the  town  by  a 
large  square,  on  which  stands  the  so- 
called  palace,  inhabited  by  members 
of  the  imperial  family  whenever  they 
visit  the  town.  Barracks  and  a  riding- 
school  will  be  found  on  the  same  pZace, 
which  is  further  adorned  by  a  boule- 
vard of  acacias  and  poplars.  Elizavet- 
grad is  a  place  of  great  trade  in  tallow, 
grain,  &c.  The  most  important  of  the 
4  fairs  held  there  is  that  of  St.  George 
(held  on  the  23rd  April,  O.S.)  the  value 
of  the  goods  brought  to  it  in  1863  having 
been  above  300.000/.  A  large  business 
is  done  at  it  in  manufactured  goods 
brought    from    Odessa,    Wilna,    and 


Russia. 


Route  13. — Olviopol — Balta. 


263 


Berdichcff.  A  market  is  moreover 
held  daily,  and  the  transactions  are 
considerable,  particularly  after  harvest 
time.  There  is  a  large  garden  be- 
longing to  the  government,  on  the  river 
Sugakley,  2  v.  out  of  Elizavetgrad.  It 
covers  nearly  60  acres,  and  existed 
prior  to  the  progress  made  by  Catherine 
II.  in  New  Russia.  The  tumuli  of 
which  the  traveller  has  heard  so  much 
throughout  his  journey  southwards 
begin  to  be  numerous  here. 

The  rly.  hence  to  Balta  and  Odessa 
will  be  open  in  July,  1868. 

Olviopol,  300  v.  from  Odessa.  I'op. 
4000. 

Hotel — none.  Travellers  wishing  to 
stay  must  continue  to  make  the  rly. 
stat.  their  headquarters. 

History. — Situated  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Siniuha  with  the  Bug  (which 
is  here  spanned  by  a  fine  rly.  bridge), 
Olviopol,  although  a  mean-looking 
town  of  wooden  hovels,  is  a  place  of 
considerable  importance  as  regards 
trade,  being  in  the  centre  of  a  district 
abounding  in  wheat.  The  rly.  from 
Balta,  opened  1868,  will  considerably 
add  to  its  importance,  which  in  early 
days  was  in  a  great  measure  strate- 
gical. The  Siniuha  river  was  in  the 
17th  centy.  a  Polish  boundary,  and  a 
little  below  the  mouth  of  that  river, 
on  the  island  of  the  Bug,  onci;  stood 
the  fastness  of  Cossack  sea-robbers, 
who  more  than  once  harassed  the  Poles, 
although  not  without  paying  dearly  for 
it  oil  several  occasions.  In  order  to 
put  an  end  to  the  depredations  of  the 
Cossacks,  the  Russian  government  re- 
solved to  fortify  the  course  of  the 
Siniuha,  and,  in  1744,  erected  some 
works  on  the  1.  banks  both  of  the 
Siniuha  and  the  Bug.  In  1764  the 
fortifications  became  the  peaceful  re- 
sort of  traders  and  the  seat  of  a  custom- 
house. The  great  commercial  highway 
from  Poland  to  Otchakoff  passed 
through  it.  In  1770  the  fortifications 
were  rebuilt,  and  in  1782  the  site 
was  raised  to  the  dignity  of  a  town,  and 
called  Olviopol,  in  memory  of  the 
ancient  Greek  colony  on  the  1.  bank  of 
the  estuary  of  the  Bug. 

The  subsequent  war  with  Turkey 


removed  the  Russian  frontier  to  the 
Dniester,  and  Olviopol  lost  its  military 
importance.  The  town  now  trends  for 
about  5  m.  along  the  2  rivers,  but  it 
has  scarcely  any  streets.  Its  southern 
part  is  frequently  inundated  by  the 
Bug,  which  before  the  construction  of 
the  rly  .-bridge  was  crossed  with  great 
ditficiilty  and  danger.  About  f^  m- 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Siniuha  are  the 
remains  of  fortifications.  The  inhabit- 
ants of  Olviopol  are  much  engaged 
in  carrying  wheat  in  barges  to  Niko- 
laef,  Voznesensk,  and  Odessa. 

Balta,  194  v.  from  Odessa.  Junct. 
with  Odessa— Volochisk  line  (border 
of  Galicia).    Pop.  14,000. 

Hotels :  two,  kept  by  Jews,  but  very 
bad.  Travellers  can  wash  at  the  rly. 
stat. 

History.— Bsltei  is  the  chief  town  of 
a  district  in  the  fertUc  province  of 
Podolia,  watered  by  the  Dniepr  and 
the  Bug,  and  having  more  than  a 
million  acres  of  land  under  cultivation. 
The  vine  flourishes  throughout  the 
Balta  district,  and  the  grazing  of  cattle 
is  pursued  on  a  large  scale.  In  1 860 
it  possessed  74,200  head  of  horned 
cattle,  11,300  horses,  38,000  sheep, 
14,800  swine,  and  200  goats.  The 
immense  trade  in  raw  products,  which 
is  the  consequence  of  such  fertility 
and  riches,  is  principally  in  the  hands 
of  Jews,  who  constitute  half  the  popu- 
lation of  Balta. 

Thirteen  stations  beyond  Balta  the 
train  will  stop  at  Kulikovo,  the  rly. 
stat.  of  Odessa,  for  description  of  which 
vide  preceding  route. 


264 


Boute  14. — Kolomna — Biazan, 


Sect.  II. 


ROUTE  14. 

MOSCOW  TO  VORONEJ,  BY  RIAZAN, 
RIAJSK,  AND  KOZLOF,  WITH  BRANCHES 
TO   MORSHANSK   AND   ELETS. 

This  line  runs  parallol  with  the 
railway  to  Kharkoff  and  the  Azof,  and 
in  destined  to  lie  continued  to  the 
country  of  the  Don  Cojjsacks.  It  is 
opened  as  far  as  Voronej.  Fare  to  Ria- 
zan  about  12  roubles.  The  principal 
towns  through  which  it  passes  are : — 

Kolomna,  107  v.  (8  stats.)  from  Mos- 
cow. Pop.  17,000.  BiiJH  at  station. 
This  town,  situated  on  the  rt.  bank  of 
Moskva  river,  is  first  mentioned  by 
chroniclers  in  1177,  and  until  the  be- 
ginning of  the  14th  centy.  it  formed 
part  of  the  principality  of  Riazan,  but 
it  has  been  annexed  to  Moscow  (of 
which  province  it  is  now  a  district- 
town)  since  1305.  It  was  frequently 
ravaged  between  the  13th  and  17th 
cents. ;  in  1287  by  the  Tartars  under 
Baty  ;  in  1380  by  the  hordes  of  Tokh- 
tamysh;  in  1380  by  Prince  Oleg  of 
Riazan  ;  in  1440  by  Mahmet.  Tsar  of 
Kazan  ;  in  1525  by  the  Grim  Tartars 
inider  Mahmet  Girei ;  in  1G08  by  the 
Poles  under  Lissofski ;  in  IGOOby  the 
Pretender  or  Robber  of  Tushin ;  and  in 
IGU  by  Wladislaus.  King  of  Poland. 
After  the  sack  of  1525,  John  the  Ter- 
rible caused  the  old  walls  of  the  town 
to  be  rebuilt,  and  they  partly  exist  to 
this  day.  They  had  a  circumference 
of  2  v.,  and  were  8-5  fms.  high,  and  2 
fms.  broad,  with  14  towers  and  4 
gates.  The  Piatnitski  Gate  is  alone 
well  preserved,  having  been  restored 
in  1825.  Of  the  towers,  those  called 
the  Kolomna  and  Tainitski  (Secret) 
Towers  are  in  a  tolerable  state  of  pre- 
servation. 

Kolomna  was  in  ancient  days  the 
prison  of  many  historical  personages. 
In  1433  Vassili  the  Dark,  the  de- 
posed Ti^ar  of  Moscow,  lived  here.  In 
the  reign  of  John  the  Terrible  many 


of  the  most  distinguished  families  of 
Novgorod  the  Great  were  exiled  to 
Kolomna,  which  was  also  the  prison, 
in  1611,  of  Marina  Mniszek,  the  wife 
of  the  Polish  pretender  to  the  throne  of 
Muscovy.  In  the  16th  centy.  it  was 
thrice  the  gathering-point  of  the  Rus- 
sian legions  that  marched  against  the 
Tartars.  In  the  Ch.  of  the  Resurrec- 
tion, within  the  Kremlin,  Dimitry  of 
the  Don  married  Eudoxia,  Princess  of 
Suzdal.  The  present  Cathedral  of  the 
Assumption  was  built  in  1672  on  the 
site  of  a  cathedral  built  in  the  14th 
centy.  by  Dimitry  of  the  Don.  There 
are  also  a  convent  founded  1552,  and 
a  monastery  established  1709.  In 
186G  tliere  were  16  mnnufactories  at 
Kolomna,  of  which  3  of  cotton  goods 
and  1  of  silks.  A  considerable  trade 
also  exists  in  wheat,  salt,  timber,  and 
cattle.  It  is  favoured  by  water  com- 
munication with  the  provinces  border- 
ing the  great  Oka  river,  and  by  its 
fluviatile  connection  with  Moscow. 

Between  Kalomna  and  the  next 
station  of  Lukliovitsi  the  train  will 
pass  over  a  fine  bridge  thrown  over  the 
Oka  river. 

Riazan,  185  v.  (13  stats.)  from  Mos- 
cow.    Pop.  25,000. 

Hotel :  Steuert's  Hotel  in  Astrakhan- 
street,  very  good.  Rooms,  1  r.  to 
150  c.  per  day. 

Riazan  is  very  prettily  situated  on 
the  small  Lybed  rivulet,  which  falls 
into  the  Trubej  river  at  the  eastern 
end  of  the  town,  and  is  distant  only 
2  V.  from  the  banks  of  tlie  Oka.  It 
stands  in  the  centre  of  a  rich  agricul- 
tural district,  and  carries  on  a  great 
trade  in  rye.  The  province  of  Riazan, 
of  which  the  town  is  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment, was  anciently  inhabited  by 
Finnish  tribes,  one  of  which,  tho 
Mestchera,  still  retains  some  of  its 
characteristics,  and  occupies  a  district 
on  the  Oka,  about  80  v.  from  Riazan. 

The  Mordva  tiibe  holds  large  tracts 
in  tho  neighbouring  province  of 
Tambof,  and  its  members  to  this  day 
preserve  their  characteristic  dress  and 
a  distinct  language.  The  women  of 
these  ancient  Finnish  races  may  be 
known  by  the  ornaments  which  they 


Eussia. 


Boute  14. — Biazan, 


265 


suspend  round  the  chin,  and  which 
principally  consist  of  small  silver  coins 
on  strings. 

The  town  of  Murom,  so  called  after 
another  of  tho.se  tribes,  is  mentioned 
as  in  existence  before  862,  but  the 
})rincipality  of  Riazan  appears  to  have 
Ix^en  founded  at  the  latter  part  of  the 
11th  centy.,  and  to  have  been  tributary 
to  the  principality  of  Murom  until  the 
year  1155.  Later  it  fell  under  tho 
j)ower  of  the  princes  of  Vladimir,  but 
regained  its  independence  and  enjoyed 
it  until  its  absorption  into  the  princi- 
pality of  Moscow  in  the  16th  centy. 

The  old  city  of  Riazan,  founded  in 
the  11th  centy.,  was  destroyed  by  the 
hordes  of  Baty  in  1237,  and  thence- 
forth Pereyaslavl-Riazanski,  founded 
about  the  same  time  (1005),  gradually 
succeeded  to  its  importance,  and  now 
bears  even  its  name.  The  fortifi- 
cations of  Pereyaslavl  were  rebuilt 
1198.  In  1294  the  tovm.  is  mentioned 
in  connection  with  the  miraculous 
voyage  of  the  Bishop  of  Miu-om  on  a 
mantle  down  the  Oka,  first  to  Riazan, 
then  to  Pereyaslavl.  In  the  14th 
centy.  the  latter  town  was  the  scene 
f  many  stirring  events  connected  with 
the  history  of  Riazan.  During  the 
whole  of  the  15th  centy.,  and  until 
1517,  it  was  the  capital  of  the  Princes 
of  Riazan.  Although  frequently  at- 
tacked by  the  Tartars  in  the  15tli  and 
16th  cents.,  the  town  did  not  suifer  as 
much  then  as  in  previous  invasions. 
In  1513  the  Ostrog  or  Citadel  was 
takcii  by  the  Tartars,  but  they  were 
repulsed  from  the  town.  In  the  14tli 
centy.  Pereyaslavl  was  surrounded  by 
a  double  wall,  protected  by  12  towers, 
and  a  wet  ditch.  These  were  extant 
in  1684,  when  the  town  was  divided 
into  two  parts— the  Kremlin  and  the 
Ostrog  (Citadel).  The  fonner  stood 
on  an  elevation  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Trubej  and  Lybed,  while  the  latter  in- 
cluded the  space  between  those  two 
rivers.  No  trace  remains  of  the  ancient 
fortifications. 

The  Cathedral  of  the  Assumption,  on 
the  square  of  the  former  Kremlin,  was 
built  in  1690,  and  is,  from  its  great 
size,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  build- 
ings in  Russia.  It  was  restored  in  1800, 


o 


and  the  belfry  was  rebuilt  1840.  Its 
greatest  treasures  are  2  "  miracle-work- 
ing "'  images  or  pictures  of  the  Virgin. 
One  of  them  was  brought  to  the  old 
city  of  Riazan  from  Murom  by  Bishop 
Vasili  in  1291,  on  the  occasion  of  his 
wonderful  voyage  above-mentioned ; 
the  second  "  appeared  to  the  people  " 
in  1487,  in  the  village  of  Fedotief :  its 
fete  is  held  since  1618  annually  on  the 
2nd  (14tli)  July,  in  commemoration 
of  the  deliverance  of  Riazan  from  au 
invasion  of  the  Cherkesses.  In  the  sa- 
cristy of  the  cath.  is  a  cup  which  was  gilt 
in  the  17th  centy.  with  the  gold  signet 
of  Baty,  who  is  reputed  to  have  left  it 
in  the  monastery  of  Bogoslof,  in  this 
province,  on  the  occasion  of  his  inroad 
into  Russia.  The  Episcopcd  Palace 
stands  near  the  cathedral.  The  CJi. 
of  the  Nativity  was  rebuilt  in  the  early 
part  of  the  present  centy.,  on  the  site 
of  a  very  ancient  edifice.  It  contains 
the  relics  of  the  famed  Vasili,  first 
Bishop  of  Murom  and  Riazan,  w^hich 
were  removed  hither  from  old  Riazan 
in  1592.  In  it  are  buried  Prince 
Theodore  of  Riazan,  his  consort, 
daughter  of  Dimitry  of  the  Don  (14tli 
centy.),  and  his  son  John  ;  also  his 
grandson  and  2  great-grandsons.  The 
inscriptions  on  some  of  the  other  tombs, 
now  scarcely  legible,  show  that  they 
contain  the  remains  of  the  Princes 
Tretny,  descendants  of  Prince  Theo- 
dore. Many  of  the  bishops  of  Riazan 
of  the  16th  and  17th  cents,  are  like- 
wise buried  in  this  ch.,  and  amongst 
them  Bishop  Stephan  Yavorski,  "  De- 
fender of  the  Patriarchal  Throne." 
In  the  sacristy  may  be  seen  the  panagia 
or  reliquary  of  Bishop  Stephan;  a 
great  number  of  chalices  and  patens, 
mostly  of  the  15th  centy. ;  the  mantle 
of  Archbp.  Misail,  who  perished  in 
his  attempt  to  christainise  the  Mordva 
tribe ;  halberds,  remains  of  ancient 
banners,  &c.  The  Monastery  of  the 
Transfiguration^  with  2  chs.,  is  of 
unknown  date,  but  it  existed  in  the 
middle  of  the  15th  centy.  The  Con- 
vent of  Kazanshi-Yavlensh'  was  re- 
moved to  its  present  site  in  1787.  The 
Dukhof,  or  Monastery  of  the  Holy  Spirit, 
near  the  Episcopal  Palace,  was  founded 
in  the  15th  centy.     The  date  of  its 


266 


Boute  14. — RiajsJc. 


Sect.  II. 


suppression    as    a  monastery  is   not 
known. 

Excursions. — Some  of  thu  monas- 
teries in  the  province  of  Kiazan  are 
verv  ancient.    That  of  Sohtchi,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Solotchi  with  the  Okii, 
18  V.   from   liiazan,  was   founded  in 
1390    by    the    celebrated    Prince    of 
Riazan,  Oleg,  the  enemy  of  Moscow, 
and  of  Dimitry  of  the  Don,  and  who 
subsequently  took  the  cowl  there.     His 
remains  and  those  of  his  consort  Eu- 
praxia,  orij^inally  buried  in  a  ch.  which 
stood   near  the  monastery,   were   re- 
moved in  tlie  early  part  of  the  present 
centy.  to  the  crypt  of  the  principal  cli. 
wit)  1  in  its  walls,  where  also  portions  of 
their  stone  coffins,  and  of  the  coat  of 
mail  as  well  as  the  greaves  of  Prince 
Oleg,  are  deposited.     The  latter  relics 
are  considered  to  have  healing  powers, 
and    are    allowed  to  be  put  on    by 
visitors.     The    monks    will   show   an 
ancient  image  carved  in  stone  repre- 
senting the  Holy   Princes  Boris  and 
Gleb.     The  Bogoslofski  Monastery,  on 
tlie  Oka  25  v.  from  Riazan,  was  founded 
in  the  early  part  of  the  13tli  ceuty., 
and    restored    1534.     Within    its    2 
churches  are  many  ecclesiastical  trea- 
sures, of  which  the  most  remarkable  is 
a  holy  image  of  John  the  Evangelist, 
painted  at    Constantinople,  and   pre- 
sented to  the   Prince  of  Riazan.     It 
manifested  miraculous  powers  in  1237. 
Tradition  says  that  Baty  approached 
the  monastery  in  order  to  destroy  it, 
but,  suddenly  struck  with  awe,  he  not 
only  spared  it,  but  endowed   it   with 
treasure,  depositing  at  the  holy  image 
of  John  the  Evangelist  the  gold  signet 
with  which,  as  we  have  already  seen, 
the  cup  shown   in   the  cathedral   at 
Riazan  was  later  gilt.     The  handle  of 
this  miraculous  image,  preserved  in 
the  sacristy,  bears  an  inscription  re- 
lating its  history,  which  is  also  men- 
tioned in  a  charter  given  to  the  monas- 
tery by  the  Patriarch  Adrian  in  1692, 
The  monastery  of  Lgof  Uspemki,  on 
the  high  bank  of  the  Oka,  10  v.  from 
Riazan,  was  founded  by  Prince  Oleg 
at  the  end  of  the  14th  centy.     Its  ch. 
was  rebuilt  1667.     The  tombs  of  the 
princely  family  of  Stchetinin-Yaros- 


lafski  (of  the  16th  and  17th  cents.), 
st^nd  on  the  crumbling  bank  of  the 
river,  into  which  many  ancient  tomb- 
stones have  no  doubt  fallen. 

An  excursion  may  likewise  be  made 
to  the  site  of  the  old  city  of  Riazan, 
now  a  village  nl)out  50  v.  from  Riazan, 
on  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Oka,  and  2  v. 
from  the  small  town  of  Spask.  It  is 
still  surrounded  by  an  earthen  ram- 
part on  3  sides,  while  on  the  4th  or 
western  side  it  is  protected  by  the  high 
bank  of  the  Oka.  The  mounds  in  tht; 
vicinity  have  yielded  many  archsBologi- 
cal  treasures.  A  pyramidal  monument 
of  cast  iron,  erected  in  1836,  marks  the 
spot  where  the  lx)dy  of  Bishop  Vasili 
rested  until  its  removal  to  Riazan  in 
1592. 

There  are  many  fine  estates  in  the 
j)rovince  of  Riazan.  We  may  mention 
those  of  Jeludiova  and  Lakasha  (of 
about  40,000  acres),  Ix-longing  to  ]\lr. 
Kolemin,  80  v.  from  Riazan,  near  th(* 
town  of  Spask,  and  the  site  of  old 
Uiazan.  Travellers  who  would  wish 
to  make  themselves  acquainted  with 
the  Russian  system  of  farming  will 
readily  be  initiated  into  the  several 
processes  by  one  of  these  large  i)ro- 
prietors,  to  whom  an  introduction  may 
without  much  difHculty  be  obtained 
at  St.  Petersburg  or  Moscow. 

Travellers  bound  from  the  S.  of 
Russia  to  the  fair  of  Xijni  can  post 
from  Kiazan  to  the  town  of  Kasimof, 
136  v.  distant,  in  an  E.S.E.  direction. 
At  Elatma,  a  small  town  E.  of  Kasimof, 
about  100  v.  by  jxist-road,  but  a  very 
short  distance  across  country,  tUey  will 
find  a  steamer  which  ascends  to  Murom 
and  Nijni  3  times  a  week.  See  Rte.  8, 
Moscow  to  Nijni  Novgorod. 

RiAJSK,  109  V.  (6th Stat.)  from  Riazan. 
Pop.  3000.  This  town  is  situated  on 
the  Hupta  river,  which  communicates 
with  the  Oka  by  other  tributaries. 
The  date  of  its  foundation  is  unknown, 
but  it  existed  in  1502.  Traces  of  its 
ancient  earthworks  are  still  visible. 
The  merchants,  who  carry  on  a  very 
large  trade  in  grain,  tallow,  hides,  «&c., 
reside  principally  in  the  villages  of 
Ukholova  (1st  stat.  on  rly.  to  Mor- 
shansk)  and  Perevles,  in  the  district 


Bussia. 


Itoute  14. — 3Ior8hamh — Kozlof. 


267 


of  Riajsk,  and  therefore  the  town  itself 
is  but  little  enlivened  by  trade.  It 
has  now,  however,  acquired  consider- 
able importance  by  its  connection  with 
^lorshansk. 


and  Riazan.  The  purchases  of  grain 
alone  at  Morshansk  arc  estimated  at 
5,000.000  r.  Saturday  is  the  market- 
day.  Hitherto  all  this  produce  has 
been  shipped  by  the  Tsna  river  to  St. 
Petersburg  and  Moscow,  but  the  rly. 
is  intended  to  supersede  the  water 
communication.] 


\_Ih'«mch  Rdihcoij  from  Riajsk  to 
MorsJiansk. 

'I'rains  run  several  times  a  day  to 
IMorshansk,  distant  121  v.  Moscow 
time  kept. 

MoiisHAN.'-K,  on  river  Tsna,  Stat., 
Top.  20,000.  Jlofch:  there  are  several 
ordinary  Russian  inns.  As  the  rly. 
reeontly  established  may  cause  some 
improvement  in  them,  inquire  for  the 
best  at  the  stat. 

History. — The    site  of    Morshansk 
was  given   to  the  Bishops  of  Riazan 
in  the  17tli  centy.,  and  from  a  village 
it  became  a  town  in  1779.     There  are 
8  chiu-ches,  of  which  the  cathedral  is 
a   fine   modern   structure,  consecrated 
1857.     The   old   cathedral  of  Sophia 
was  built  1753.     The  town  has  been 
deemed  worthy  of  a  railroad  on  ac- 
count of  its  great   trade,  due  to  its 
l»(»sition  in  one  of  the  most  fertile  pro- 
vinces in  Russia— Taml)of.      Tallow- 
melting  is  its  principal  industry.     In 
I8f)l  it  had  13  melting-houses,  which 
jToduced  8300  cwt.  of  tallow.     There 
are  aLso  a  soap-manufactory,  a  distil- 
lery, &c.     The  tallow   is   principally 
the  produce  of  the  cattle  which  the 
merchants  of  Morshansk  purchase  in 
the    country    of    the   Don    Cossacks, 
and  in  the  provinces    of   Astrakhan, 
Saratoif,  and  Orenburg,   to   the   ex- 
tent of  20,000  head  of  horned  cattle, 
and  100.000  sheep.     Large  quantities 
o\'  tallow,  in  small  parcels,  are  also 
bnjught  from  other    towns,   and   re- 
melted  at  Morshansk.     The  meat  is 
carried  to  Moscow.    In  winter  Mor- 
shansk is  visited  by  merchants  from 
St.     Petersburg,     Moscow,    Yaroslaf, 
Vladimir,  &c.,  who  come  to  purchase 
the  grain,  linseed,  tallow,  potash,  and 
other  produce  brought  there  from  the 
provinces   of  Tamlxtf,  Penza,  Saratof, 
Bussia. — 1868. 


Route  to  Voronej  coatinueL 

K()ZLOB%  198  V.  from  Riazan,  and 
89  V.  from  Riajsk.  Pop.  30,000. 
Inn  :  Rogof's  Hotel.  This  is  at  the 
same  time  the  exchange  of  Kozlof, 
where  most  of  the  transactions  in 
grain  are  concluded  over  a  cup  of  tea. 

History^  &c. — Kozlof  is  situated  on 
the    river  Lesnoi- Voronej,    and    was 
founded  by  Joseph,  a  hermit,  in  1627, 
who   was '  joined    by  other    religious 
men,   by  whom  later  a  brotherhood 
was  established.     Its  cathedral  was 
built  1839,  and  the  oldest  ch.  extant 
dates  only  from  1772.     This  is  also 
one  of  the  great  centres  of  trade  in 
Russia,  being  in  the  centre  of  a  black- 
soil  district,  rich  in  grain  and  cattle. 
There   are  14  tallow-melting   houses, 
2  soap-works,  7  caudle-works,  3  brew- 
eries and  distilleries,  &c.      But  the 
principal  trade  of  the  town  consists  in 
the  sale  of  grain,  of  which  900,000 
chetverts  are  bought  up  in  the  neigh- 
bouring districts,  and  despatched  to 
INIoscow.     The  tallow  is  the  produce 
of  20,000  head  of  cattle  slaughtered 
in  the  town,  but  a  much  larger  num- 
ber is  driven  to  Kozlof  annually,  from 
the  banks  of    the  Kuban   and  from 
Little  Russia  ;  the  cattle  that  are  not 
melted  down   for  tallow  are   sold   in 
INToscow.     A  large  quantity  of  salted 
meat  is  prepared  at  Kozlof,  and  there 
is  also  a  large  trade   in  horses,  the 
province  of  Tambof,  to  which  the  town 
belongs,  being  celebrated  for  its  studs. 
There  are  no  fewer  than  36  breeding 
stables  in  the  district  of  Kozlof  alone. 
The  trade  of  the  town  is  valued  at 
4,000.000  roubles,   and   the    railroad 
will   very   naturally   cause   it  to   in- 
crease considerably. 


268 


Boute  14. — Elets — Voronej. 


Sect.  II. 


Griazi  fSrd  stat.  from  Kozlot), 
on  the  rt.  Matyra,  a  tributary  of  the 
Voronej. 

This  is  an  agricultural  village  of 
2000  Inhab.  A  considerable  quantity 
of  fish  is  also  caught  here.  There  is 
a  railroad  hence  in  construction  (1868) 

to  Elets. 

The  mineral  waters  (alkaline  and 
ferruginous)  of  Lipetsk,  8  hrs.  drive 
from  Griazi,  are  much  frequented  be- 
tween the  27th  May  and  27th  Sept. 
Kumyss,  or  fermented  mare's  milk, 
is  likewise  drunk  there. 


^Branch  to  Elets. 

Elets,  on  Sosna  river.  Pop. 
26,000. 

In  the  11th  centy.  this  was  a  fron- 
tier town  of  the  principality  of  Riazan. 
It  was  destroyed  by  Baty  in  the  13th 
centy.,  and  is  not  mentioned  again  in 
chronicles  until  the  end  of  the  14th 
centy.,  when  Tamerlane  approached 
it  on  his  marcli  to  Moscow,  but 
suddenly  turned  back  towards  the 
mouth  of  the  Don.  The  town  was 
then  governed  by  its  own  princes.  It 
was  devastated  by  the  Tartars  in  1415 
and  1450,  and  was  only  rebuilt  in 
1591.  During  the  troubles  caused  by 
the  appearance  of  the  Pretenders  in 
the  17th  centy.,  Elets  was  always  on 
the  side  of  the  rebels,  and  in  1618  it 
was  seized  by  the  Hetman  of  Little 
Russia.  In  1745  it  ^yas  totally  de- 
stroyed by  a  conflagration. 

At  present  there  are  16  chs.  in  Elets. 
In  the  old  Cathedral  dedicated  to  the 
Mother  of  God  are  2  very  ancient 
images  of  the  Holy  Virgin,  of  which 
one  was  brought  to  the  town  in  1395, 
and  the  other  was  painted  at  about  the 
same  period  in  commemoration  of  the 
invasion  of  Tamerlane  ;  it  was  restored 
1779.  The  Convent  of  the  Apparition 
of  the  Holy  Virgin  is  of  unknown  date. 
It  was  burned  down  1764,  when  the 
nuns  were  removed  to  Voronej,  but  it 
was  re-established  in  1822.  The  con- 
vent is  surrounded  by  a  stone  wall 
with  4  towers.  Within  it  is  a  fine 
belfry,  of  4  stories.   The  Monastery  of 


the  Trinity  J  no  longer  occupied  l)y 
monks  (who  were  removed  to  the  town 
of  Lebcdian,  in  Tambof,  1775),  is  sup- 
posed to  have  been  founded  in  the  12tli 
centy.  The  f(jur  small  chnpeU  arc 
reputed  to  stand  over  the  graves  of  the 
citizens  who  fell  during  the  invasion 
of  Tamerlane.  The  Goslinnoi  Dvor  is 
a  very  fine,  large  building.  A  prison 
on  a  large  scale  is  being  built  opposite 
the  monastery. 

Elets  is  likewise  an  important  place 
of  trade.  It  has  10  tallow-melting 
houses,  14  soap  and  candle  works,  11 
tan-yards,  and  a  large  foundry.  Its 
principal  transactions  are,  however,  in 
corn  and  cattle.  Bread-stuffs,  and 
particularly  winter  corn,  are  brought 
there  from*  the  provinces  of  Kharkof, 
Kursk,  Voronej,  Tambof,  and  partly 
from  Saratof.  The  quantity  of  winter 
corn  purchased  in  those  districts  by  the 
agents  of  the  Elets  merchants  amounts 
to  300,000  chetverts  a  year.  This  corn, 
mixed  with  spring  corn,  gives  an  ex- 
cellent quality  of  wheaten  flour,  called 
after  the  name  of  the  town,  and  well 
known  in  Russia.  There  are  no  fewer 
than  152  flour-mills  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  town.    Markets  thrice  a  week.] 


Route  to  Voronej  continued. 

Voronej,  496  v.  from  Moscow,  on  rt. 
bank  of  Voronej,  near  its  confluence 
with  the  Don.    Pop.  41,000. 

Hotel :  Abramofs  Hotel,  pretty  good. 

There  is  also  another  good  hotel 
near  the  governor's  house. 

History,  etc.— Although  the  name  of 
Voronej  occurs  in  the  12th  centy.,  yet 
it  is  uncertain  whether  a  river  or  a 
town  is  implied.  Travellers  of  the 
14th,  15th,  and  16th  cents,  omit  to 
mention  the  existence  of  a  town.  At 
all  events,  the  present  town  of  Voronej, 
the  seat  of  government  of  a  provinct; 
bearing  the  same  name,  was  founded 
in  1586  by  the  ''  Boyar  Mstsislavsky 
and  his  comrades."  It  was  an  ad- 
vanced post  against  the  Tartars,  and 
the  Russian  citizens  were  called  upon 
in  those  days  to  supply  horses  for 
Rusaiau   envoys   to   the   Crimea,   to 


Russia. 


Boute  14. —  Voronej. 


269 


Turkey,  to  the  Nogay  Tartars,  and 
to  the  Don  Cossacks.  In  1590  the 
town  was  burned  by  the  Cherkesses, 
when  the  Voevod  or  Governor,  Prince 
Dolgorukof-Shibanofski,  was  killed.  In 
1603  and  1604  it  surrendered  to  the 
Pretenders,  and  was  on  each  occasion 
sacked.  It  nevertheless  began  to  ac- 
quire importance  as  a  commercial  city 
early  in  tlie  17th  centy.  The  Tsar 
Theodore  caused  a  new  fortress  to  be 
built  in  1672.  It  had  walls  of  oak, 
870  fms.  in  circumference,  and  17 
towers,  besides  a  dry  ditch.  In  1676 
the  Inhab.  numbered  5000.  But  its 
greatest  progress  was  made  under  the 
reign  of  Peter,  who  first  visited  the 
town  in  1694,  and  establi.shed  a  fortified 
dockyard.  In  1699  Voronej  had  a  fleet 
of  Gij  vessels  armed  with  2546  cannon, 
and  carrying  16,814  troops.  TJiey 
were  built  under  the  superintendence 
of  a  Dutch  shipwright.  Peter  Bass. 
When  Peter  went  abroad  he  left  Ad- 
miral Apraxin  in  charge  of  the  naval 
yard,  and  on  his  return  frequently 
visited  Voronej. 

In  1701  the  building  yard  was  re- 
moved to  Tavrof.  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Don,  as  the  river  had  become  shallow 
off  the  town.  In  1702  Peter  the  Great 
caused  4390  men  to  be  brought  here 
from  Archangel.  Its  bishop,  the  ca- 
nonized Metrophanes,  having  died  in 
1703,  Peter  assisted  at  his  funeral. 
The  fires  of  1703,  1748,  and  1773  de- 
stroyed all  the  old  buildings. 

Voronej  was  the  birthplace  of  two 
poets  —  self-educated  men  —  Koltsof 
and  Nikitin.  The  house  in  which 
Nikitin  (who  was  a  bookseller)  lived 
is  preserved.  The  two  poets  lie  side 
by  side  in  the  new  cemetery.  A  monu- 
ment to  Koltsof  is  in  course  of  erec- 
tion in  one  of  the  public  promenades. 

The  town  stands  on  a  steep  height, 
and  consists  of  three  portions,  the  upper 
town,  lower  town,  and  suburbs.  The 
view  from  every  part  of  it  is  truly  mag- 
nificent. The  principal  street  has  a 
fine  appearance,  its  sides  being  lined 
with  handsome  edifices,  most  of  them 
government  buildings ;  Moscow-st.  is 
also  very  fine,  and  in  it  are  the  arch- 
bishop's' palace  and  the  cathedral. 
The  only  building  that  remains  of  the 


time  of  Peter  the  Great  is  the  ''  Ord- 
nance house "  on  an  island  of  the 
Voronej.  On  the  principal  square 
stands  a  monument  to  Peter  I.,  erected 
1860.  The  town  possesses  a  theatre, 
an  hospital,  a  lunatic  asylum,  a  prison, 
a  government  school,  and  many  other 
institutions  charitable  and  scholastic. 
The  Monastery  of  Metrophanes  was 
founded  1836,  and  contains  4  churches. 
Within  the  principal  ch.,  built  of  wood 
in  1620,  and  rebuilt  of  stone  in  1735, 
lie  the  relics  of  St.  Metrophanes  in  a 
rich  silver  slirine. 

Voronej  is  one  of  the  most  flourish- 
ing towns  in  the  S.  of  Russia,  and  has 
a  very  large  trade  in  corn,  linseed, 
tallow,  &c.  It  has  also  many  tallow- 
melting  houses,  candle  and  soap  works, 
&c.  Four  fairs  are  held  annually ;  the 
best  being  those  of  the  9th  May  and 
29th  Aug.  (O.S.).  Markets  are  held 
3  times  a  week. 

Until  the  rly.  is  continued  from 
Voronej  to  the  country  of  tht;  Don 
Cossacks,  travellers  \\ill  have  to  post 
across  the  country  to  Km-sk,  and  take 
rail  there  for  the  Black  Sea  or  the 
Azof.  The  more  enterprising  will  pro- 
bably make  an  excursion  down  the 
Don  river,  the  ancient  Tanais,  which 
rises  in  Orel,  and  runs  a  course  of 
about  1000  m.,  or  perhaps  even  embark 
on  a  barge  for  Kalatch,  from  whence 
steamers  leave  twice  a  week  for  Rostof 
and  Taganrog.  There  is  also  a  rly. 
from  Kalatch  to  Tsaritsin  on  the 
Volga.  The  Don  is  full  of  fine  stur- 
geon, and  the  mode  of  catching  it,  and 
of  extracting  the  caviar,  of  which 
such  prodigious  quantities  are  eaten, 
present  nmneroas  scenes  of  interest, 
and  aflbrd  many  instructive  subjects  of 
study.  This  e:icursion  cannot,  how- 
ever, be  undertaken  without  a  good 
guide  and  proper  preparation. 


02 


1270 


Bovte  15. — Taganrorf. 


Sect.  n. 


IJOUTK  lo. 

ST.  PETEHSIilRG,  MOSCOW,  OK  MICA,  TO 
TAr.ANUOG  AND  UOSTOF  (SEA  OK  AZOF), 
KV   KHARKOFF. 

For  routes  to  Klmrkoif  rule  \m:- 
vi<»us  lltes. 

A  railway  from  Kharkoff  to  Tauaii- 
rog  and  Rostof,  aBD  v.  in  length,  lias 
l^een  oomnienred  in  18G8.  and  will  he 
opened  in  the  fall  of  1870.  The  n.'W 
line  will  pass  through  tlic  town  (»f 
Bi\khiuut. 

JjAKir^iUT,  on  river  Bakhnmt,  a 
small  affluent  of  tlto  X.  Donets.  l*(»p. 
lO.OOO. 

TJiis  town  wius  foinided  in  the  latter 
part  of  the  17th  (tenty.,  when  salt 
.springs  were  discovtTed  near  the  river. 
Th(!  .salt-works  weni  closed  in  1782. 
A  fortress  was  constructed  liere  in 
1703.  In  1783  Baklimut  was  mtule  tlie 
chief  town  of  a  district  in  the  piov,  of 
Ekat«'rinoslaf.  Large  <piantitics  ofcoal 
are  found  on  tlie  X.  Donets.  The 
extension  of  the  railway  will  probably 
convert  Baklimut  into  a  wealthy  mining 
district. 

Tagankog,  on  coast  of  Sea  of  Azof. 
Pop.  42,000. 

Hisfiiry. — Although  Taganrog  was 
only  founded  in  the  reign  of  Peter  the 
(ireat,  the  history  of  the  province  of 
Kkaterinoslaf,  in  which  this  great  mer- 
cantile city  is  situated,  is  full  of  events 
Ijearing  on  the  fate  of  the  present 
oini)ire  of  lUissia.  The  Sea  of  Azof 
was    knowu   to   the   aftcients   as   the 


Palus    Mseotis,    but.    they   had    very 
vague  notions  of  its  true  form  and  size^ 
The  earlier  geographers  thought  tlmt 
both  it    and   the   Caspian   Sea   were 
sulfs  of  th(^   i^rcat   \,    Ocean.      This 
idea  must  have  been  dissipated  by  the 
INIilesians,  who,  in  the  .5th  centy.  B.C., 
founded  the  town  of  Tanais  on  the  N. 
side  of  the  S.  mouth  of  the  Tanais  or 
Don,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  sea, 
and  made  it  a  very  nourishing  em- 
l)orium,  which   reduced  to  subjection 
.several  of  the  neighlwmring  tribes  of 
Scythians,    known    by   the    collective 
name  of  ]Ma!otie.  or  Ma^otici ;  but  in 
its  turn  it  Ijecanie  subject  to  the  kings 
of   Bosporus.      It   was   destroyed    l>y 
Polemon,  on  account  of  an  attempted 
revolt,    and,    though    afterwards    re- 
stored, it   never  regained   its  former 
prosperity.     Later  the  Gen(x;se  settled 
on    the   .sami'   si)ot,    and   cidled   their 
town    Tana,  which   was   however  de- 
stroyed by  Tamerlane  in  1305. 

Th«'  site  of  the  ancient  Tanais  and 
Tana   is   now  occupied  by   the  town- 
let    of    Azof,    which    was    taken    by 
tlu-  liussians  from  the  Turks,  whosue- 
cee<lcd  the  Genm^se,  in  1709.     Othei- 
Greek  colonies  existed  along  the  coast 
of    the    Palus   INLtJotis.    but    little    or 
nothing  is  known  of  their  history.    All 
trace  of  them  was   destroyed  by  the; 
wild  hordes  from  Asia  when  they  swejit 
thr(High  the  present  province  of  Ekn- 
tii-inoslaf  to  destroy  the  Koman  Empire 
(»f  the  West.    For  several  centuries  the 
country  between  the  I'stuary  of  the  Bug 
and  till;  C/aspian  Sea  was  occupied  by 
wild  tribe's  of  Kha.sars,  Pechenegians, 
and  Polovtsts,  w  ho  are  frecpiently  men- 
tiouid  throughout  this  book  as  invad- 
ing tlu!  old   principalities   of  Russia. 
In  the  13th  <'enty.  came  the  Mongols, 
who.   after  ravnging  Persia,  marchc<l 
<»ver  the  Caucasus  into  Eurojx;.     The 
Russian  princes  who  opi)osed  them  were 
utterly   routed   in    1224   on  the  river 
Kalka,  now  called  Kalniius,  near  the 
l)resent  town  of  MariuiK>l.     Thus  the 
present  province  of  Ekatcrino.slaf  was 
the  scene  of  the  first  conflicts  Ijetween 
the  Slavonian  races  and  the  Tartars, 
who  soon  after  under  Baty  committed 
the   most   dreadful    ravages   all    over 
Russia.      When    the  Mongol    hordes 


Kussia. 


Boute  15. — Taganrog. 


271 


separated  into  three  independent 
khanates,  namely,  those  of  Kazan, 
Astrakhan,  and  the  Crimea,  the  pro- 
vince of  Ekaterinoslaf  probably  be- 
longed to  the  latter  khanate.  In  the 
latter  part  of  the  15th  centy.  the  Mon- 
gols were  driven  out  of  Russia,  and 
.Tohn  the  Terrible  took  from  them  the 
kingdoms  of  Kazan  and  Astrakhan, 
leaving  them  only  in  pos.scssion  of  the 
Crimean  peninsula,  which  they  con- 
tinued to  h(»ld  under  the  suzerainty  of 
tln'  Turks  mitil  the  reign  of  Catherine 
IL 

The  country  which  they  had  vacated 
north  (»f  the  Perekop  was  then  taken 
[Kissession  of  by  colonists  from  Little 
Russia,  who  formed  theuKselves  into 
military  brotherhoods  under  the  nana- 
of  Cherkes.ses  (Circassians J  and  Za])oro- 
gians ;  the  latter  appellation,  .signifying 
••  dwellers  Ix'vond  the  rapids."  behig 
derived  from  the  circumstance  of  their 
iiaving  fir.st  .settled  below  the  rapids  of 
I  he  Dniepr.  They  were  fretpiently 
attacked  by  the  Crim  or  Crimean 
Tartars,  and  the  possession  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Ekaterino.slaf  continued  to  Ix? 
tlisputed  until  the  middle  of  the  l8;h 
eenty.,  when,  after  manv  eiu^ounters 
Nvitli  the  Tnrk.s,  the  Turco-Tartar 
holders  of  the  province  met  with  a 
.severe  bli>w  in  the  taking  of  the  fortress 
of  Azof  by  the  troops  of  Peter  the 
( ireat  in  1  (JOO.  The  fortress  was,  how- 
ever, surrendered  to  the  Turks  in  1711 
by  the  convention  made  on  the  Pruth. 
By  the  Treaty  of  Belgrade,  1739,  the 
Sultan  of  Turkey  ceded  to  Russia 
the  steppe-s  between  the  Bug  and  the 
Donets.  But  they  were  of  little  u.se 
luitil  the  Emj)ress  Elizabeth  caused 
iiica.siu'es  to  be  adopted  for  poi)ulating 
\  he  steppes  and  checking  the  lawless- 
ness of  the  Zaporogian  Cossacks,  who 
n  ^  •!  »ed  friend  and  foe  alike.  Georgians. 
liulg!iri:uis,  Wallachians,  and  Greeks 
joined  the  regiments  that  were  formed 
tor  the  purpo.se  of  protecting  the  then 
frontier  of  Russia  against  the  Turks 
jind  Tartars. 

lietween  1740  and  1750  a  large 
Inniy  of  Servians,  imder  Colonel  Hor- 
vat,'  dissati.sfled  with  Austrian  rule 
under  Maria  Theresa,  emigrated  to  the 
northern  purt  of  the  province  of  Eka- 


terinoslaf, and,  forming  a  regiment, 
established  their  headquarters  in  the 
fortified  town  of  Bakhmut.  Tlie  Ser- 
vians were  followed  by  Little  Rus.sian^i 
and  Hungarians.  Their  settlements- 
were  protected  by  fortifications  which 
were  constantly  kept  in  a  state  of" 
defence.  In  1760  the  N.  part  of  Eka- 
terinoslaf was  dotted  with  militar\ 
colonies  which  were  called  collectiveh 
Slavo-Servia,  of  which  Bakhmut  was 
the  capital.  Slavo-Servia  was  divided 
into  regiments,  and  these  agahi  into 
companies,  each  having  its  own  chief. 
Tlu!  Empress  Catherine,  however, 
caused  General  Horvat  to  be  remove*] 
from  his  command,  and  the  Sluro- 
Serviaii  colonies  were  converted  into 
the  prf»vince  of  Ekaterinoslaf,  with  a 
new  form  of  administration.  This 
lasted  until  1768,  when  Russia  went 
to  war  again  with  Turkey,  and  the 
Nagay  and  Crimean  Tart;irs,  led  by 
Kerim-Girey,  devastated  the  province 
with  fire  and  sword.  Azof,  Taganrog, 
Kinburn.  and  tli<?  whole  of  the  country 
between  the  Bug  and-the  Dniepr,  w^cre 
restored  to  Russia  by  the  Treaty  of 
Kuchuk-Kainardji,  aiid  the  Crimea 
became  independent  of  Turkey. 

In  1774  Prince  Potemkin  was  ap- 
j)ointed  Governor  of  New  Russia.  He 
found  the  S.W.  part  of  the  province  of 
Ekaterinoslaf  occupied  Ity  the  Zaporo- 
gian Cossacks,  who  had  not  as.sisted 
Russia  in  the  previous  war  with  the 
Turks,  and,  following  the  occupation  of 
freebooters,  had  prevented  the  peaceful 
colonization  of  the  country.  Thiscause*! 
the  Empress  Catherine  to  order  the  oc- 
cupation of  their  capital  or  Sttch  in  1775, 
and  the  steppes  along  the  left  biiidv 
of  the  Dniepr  were  incorporated  with 
the  then  province  of  Azof.  In  1778 
Ekaterinoslaf,  now  the  capital  of  the 
province,  and  Kherson,  were  founded, 
while  the  Greek  colonists  buUt  the 
town  of  Mariupol.  Suvorof  was  about 
the  same  time  sent  to  the  Crimea  to 
keep  the  Tartars  in  order.  Their 
attempt  to  rise  in  1782  led  to  the 
annexation  of  the  Crimean  peninsula 
and  Russia  became  for  ever  freed  froui 
its  old  and  most  inveterate  enemies. 

A  dreadful  visitation  of  the  plague 
was  the  last  event  in  the  long  list  of 


272 


Boiite  15. — Taganrog, 


Sect.  IT. 


misfortunes  to  wliich  this  part  of  Russia 
has  been  subjected. 

With  the  view  of  increasing  the 
population  of  the  now  peaceful  pro- 
vince, colonies  of  Mennonites  from 
Pnissia  were  established  in  the  heart 
of  the  country  of  the  Zaporogians. 
The  province  of  Eknt(>rinoslaf  was  con- 
stituted in  its  present  extent  under 
the  reign  of  Alexander  I.  in  1802. 

Having  tlius  traced  the  history  of 
the   province    in    which   Taganrog   is 
situated,  it  is  time  to  speak  of  the  town 
itself.     Its  site  was  chosen    in  1G9G, 
when  Peter  tlie  Great  sent  there  an 
engineer  to  build  a  harbour  capable 
of  containing  200  .small  vessels,  and 
to  be  protected  by  a  fort.     In  1G98 
the   Voevod    Tolstoy    was    ai)i)ointed 
(lovernor,  and  the  town  began  to  grow 
in  size  and  imi)ortance  ;  but  a  vi.situ- 
tion  of  the  plague,  in  1704,  destroyed 
the  greater   part  of  the  inhabitants. 
These  were,  however,  soon  replac((l  ])y 
now  settlers,  principally  Ku.ssians,  and 
an  emigrant  from  Kagusa  established 
the  first  mercantile  house,  which  lasted 
until  1712,  when,  in  accordance  wltli 
the  stipulations  of  the  treaty  made  with 
the  Turks  on  the  l*ruth,  the  harbour 
and  fort  of  Taganrog  were  levelled 
with  the  ground,  and  the  inhabitants 
removed.     In   17G1>  a  fresh  wiir  with 
Turkey  enabled  Russia  to  build  a  new 
fort  at  Taganrog,  and  in   1770    the 
neighl)ourliood  of  the  old  town  began 
to  })e  populated.     Considerable  num- 
Ix^rs  of  Greeks  from  the  Archipelago 
and   the   Mona,   most  of  whom  had 
served   under   I'rince  Orlof-Chesmen- 
ski,  occupied  the   lands  between  the 
northern   shore   of  the  Azof  and  the 
estuary   of  the  Mius,  and  now  form 
the  principal  part  of  the  population  of 
Taganrog.     The  great  event  in  the 
modern   history   of  Taganrog    is   the 
death  there  of  the  Emjjeror  Alexander 
I.  (1825)  while  on  a  tour  of  inspection 
through  the  southern  provinces  of  the 
empire. 


Trade. — Of  the  three  principal  ports 
of  the  Sea  of  Azof,  Taganrog,  Rostof, 
and  Mariupol,  the  first  is  the  most  con- 
siderable, notwithstanding  many  dis- 
advantages, Euch  as  the  shallowness  of 


its  roadstead  (vessels  having  to  anchor 
at  a  distance  of  15  to  25  miles  from 
the  landing-place),   and  the   absenc(^ 
hitherto  of   communication  by   goo<l 
roads  with  the  interior  of  the  country. 
Nevertheless  it  is  the  seat  of  a  custom- 
house of  the  first-class.     The  principal 
articles  of  export  in  186G  were  :  wheat, 
1,184,000  qrs.;   rye,  95,000  qrs. ;    lin- 
seed,   193.000   qrs.;    wool,    G,734,000 
lbs.;    tallow,    102,000    cwt.,   &c.,   the 
produce  principally  of  the  provinces  of 
Kkaterinoslaf  and  Kharkoii*,  and  of  the 
country  of  the  Don  Cossacks.    The  im- 
ports are  coft'ee.  oil,  wine,  fruit,  &c.,  from 
I'urkey,  Greece,  Italy,  &c.,  viz.  from 
the  countries  whicii  have  har])ours  on 
the  INIeditvrranean.    The  annual  value 
of  the  exi)orts  Ix'tween  18G2  and  ISGG 
has  been  estimatt'<l  by  H.li.]M.  Consul 
at  Taganrog  at  aljout  3  millions  ster- 
ling, and  the  imports  at  less  than  half 
a  million  sterling;  while  the  average 
number   of  vessels   employed   in  the 
carriage  of  thosi'  goods  between   tlu? 
aliovc  dates  was  755,   of  which  1G3 
were  under  Briti.sh  colours,  the  latter 
having  come  to  the  port  chiefiy  in  bal- 
last for  the  piirf)ose  of  loading  wheat, 
&c. 

Topography. — The  finest  houses  are 
situated  in  Peter  or  Bolshaya  (Great) 
str.  There  are  4  large  squares  in  the 
town,  and  in  one  of  them  stands  the 
inevitable  '*  Gostinnoi  Dvor"  or  Bazaar 
of  all  Russian  towns.  Of  the  0  Russo- 
( J  reek  chs.,  the  largest  is  the  Cathedral 
of  til e  Assumption. 

The  Greek  Monastery  of  Jervsahin, 
under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  Patriarch 
of  Jerusalem,  is  one  of  the  finest  eccle- 
siastical buildings  in  Taganrog.  The 
]x)dy  of  the  Em])eror  Alexander  I.  was 
laiil  there  until  its  removal  to  St. 
Petersburg.  The  most  remarkable 
buildings,  &c.,  in  the  town  are — 1,  the 
Palace,  a  large  stone  house,  in  which 
Alexander  I.  died  ;  the  room  in  which 
the  monarch  breathed  his  last  is  reli- 
giously preserved  in  the  exact  state  in 
which  he  left  it,  and  may  be  seen. 
2,  the  Monument  to  Alexander  I., 
erected  1831  by  the  citizens,  with  the 
assistance  of  members  of  the  imperial 
family.  It  stands  near  the  Greek 
mouasterv,  and  consists  of  a  colossal 


Russia. 


Boute  16. — Niholaef. 


273 


bronze  statue  of  the  emperor  on  a 
granite  pedestal ;  it  was  designed  by 
Martos.  3,  the  Granite  quay,  for 
coasting  vessels.  4,  the  stone  Stair- 
caxe  leading  to  the  Exchange.  5,  the 
Theatre.  6,  the  Exchange.  7,  the 
Government  Garden,  laid  out  in  180G, 
the  principal  promenade  of  the  inhabit- 
ants. There  are  two  other  gardens 
outside  the  to\\Ti,  "  Elizabeth's  Park  " 
and  "  Peter's  Grove  of  Oaks."  The 
former  is  about  3  v.  from  the  town,  and 
the  latter  not  more  than  5  v.  There 
is  in  reality  nothing  to  see  at  Taganrog 
])eyond  the  house  in  which  Alexander 
I.  died.  The  town  is  neat  and  tidy, 
but  the  dust  is  terrific. 

Steamers. — The  steamers  of  the 
Russian  Steam  Navigation  Company 
ply  between  Odessa  and  Taganrog 
twice  a  week,  touching  at  the  other 
])orts  in  the  Sea  of  Azof,  &c.  (Fare  to 
Odessa  about  40  roubles,  including 
living.)  Steamers  also  keep  up  the 
communication  between  Taganrog  and 
the  mouth  of  the  Don  (a  passage  of 
about  4  hrs.\  where  travellers  proceed- 
ing to  Rostof  are  transshipped  into  a 
steamer  of  lighter  draft,  which  reaches 
the  latter  town  in  about  4  hrs.  more. 
The  route  from  Rostof  to  the  Volga, 
&c.,  and  the  town  itself,  arc  described 
ill  Rte.  18. 


ROUTE  16. 

ODESSA  TO    THE    CRDIEA  OVERLAND,   BY 
NIKOLAEF  AND  KHEKSON. 

The  overland  route  to  the  Crimea 
lies  through  a  flat  and  dreary  country, 
oftering  no  compensation  for  its  many 
discomforts.  The  sea  route  should  be 
preferred,  but  for  the  benefit  of  those 
who  might  desire  to  pay  a  preliminary 
visit  to  Nikolaef  and  Kherson,  or  to 
travel  on  thence  to  the  Perekop,  the 
following  information  is  subjoined. 

The  voyage  from  Odessa  to  Niko- 
laef will  be  performed  in  one  of  the 
steamers  of  the  Russian  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company  which  leave  Odessa 
3  times  a  week.  Fare  4^  and  3  rs. 
Starting  at  8  a.m.  the  steamer  will 
reach  at  5  p.m.  the  port  of 


Nikolaef,  at  the  junction   of  the 
Ingul  with  the  Bug.    (Pop.  46,000.) 

Hotel — bad. 

History,  &c.  —  The  more  ancient 
history  of  the  coast  on  either  side  of 
Nikolaef  will  be  read  at  Kherson.  It 
will  in  the  mean  while  sutiice  to  tell 
the  traveller  here  that  the  site  of 
Nikolaef  was  first  occupied  by  various 
emigrants  after  the  destruction  of  the 
Cossack  Setch  or  Republic  in  1775. 
In  1789  the  town  obtained  its  present 
name  in  commemoration  of  the  taking 
of  Otchakof  on  the  6th  (18th)  Decem- 
ber, the  feast-day  of  St.  Nicholas.  It 
was  from  the  first  destined  to  be  the 
harbour  of  the  Black  Sea  fleet,  the 
lx)sition  of  Kherson  and  Sevastopol 
having  been  found  imsatisfactory.  The 
first  frigate  was  built  and  launched  at 
Nikolaef  in  1790,  and  a  very  great 
number  of  people  were  brought  there 
and  made  to  work  in  the  dockyards. 
Prince  Potemkiu  contemplated  deep- 
ening the  Ingul  and  many  other  great 
works,  but  he  died  before  he  could 
carry  out  his  plans. 

The  town  covers  an  immense  extent, 
each  house  being  generally  of  one 
story,  with  large  gardens  attached  to  it, 
and' the  streets  are  of  enormous  width. 


274 


Route  16. — Kherson. 


Sect.  II. 


The  rivers  Ingul  and  Bug  form  a  fine 
estuary,  in  which  during  winter  the 
vessels  of  the  Black  Sea  fleet  are  sta- 
tioned. The  Boulevard,  near  the 
river,  is  well  planted,  and  forms  a 
shrubbery  to  the  water's  edge.  This 
and  other  improvements  were  eff<oted 
under  the  administration  of  Admiral 
Greig,  Commander  of  the  Kussian 
naval  forces  in  the  Black  Sea,  and 
son  of  Admiral  Greig,  who  won  for 
the  Bussians  the  naval  battle  of 
Chesme.  The  objects  most  worthy  of 
notice  are  the  dockyards.  The  Ob- 
servatory is  situated  a  short  distance 
from  the  town ;  the  view  from  its 
roof  is  very  fine.  The  large  barracks 
for  seamen  were  built  by  an  English 
architect,  while  the  house  in  which 
the  governor  lives  was  erected  by 
Prince  Potemkin.  Among  the  finest 
buildings  of  Nikolaef  is  its  cathedral, 
dedicated  to  St.  George,  with  an  altar- 
screen  painted  by  an  Italian  artist. 
It  has  also  a  theatre,  and  many  fine 
public  institutions,  which  render  it, 
next  to  Odessa,  the  hand.somest  town 
of  New  Russia.  The  annual  ex])orta- 
tion  of  wheat  from  Nikolaef  is  valued 
at  a  little  more  than  a  million  and  a 
half  of  roubles,  and  there  is  a  consi- 
derable trade  in  timber,  cattle,  tallow, 
and  leather.  The  transactions  in  ma- 
nufactured goods  are  estimated  at 
1,200,000  rs.  per  anniun. 

Since  the  fall  of  Sevastopol,  Niko- 
Irlef  has  become  the  principal  naval 
station  of  Russia  in  the  Black  Sea, 
and  its  increased  importance  and  com- 
mercial ])rosperity  have  led  to  the 
British  Vice-Consulate  being  removed 
there  from  Kherson. 

Kherson,  on  river  Dniepr.  Pop. 
40.000. 

The  distance  overland  from  Niko- 
laef to  Kherson  is  only  about  40  m., 
over  a  steppe  country  with  every  now 
and  then  greater  or  smaller  elevations 
and  numerous  tumuli  erected  by  an- 
«'ient  inhabitants.  The  existence  of 
the  Scythians  in  these  parts  is  attested 
by  Herodotus,  "  the  Father  of  History," 
who  visited  the  country  between  the 
Dniepr  and  the  Diiiestr  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  5th  centy.  jj.c,,  leaving  a 


valuable  description  of  it.  From  him 
we  learn  that  this  extremity  of  Russia 
once  formed  part  of  Great  Scythia, 
inhabited  by  a  numerous  population, 
divided  into  several  tribes  more  or 
less  civilized.  On  the  lower  course  of 
the  Dniepr.  and  theretbre  near  the 
})re.sent  city  of  Kherson,  dwelt  the 
Royal  Scythians  (principally  on  tin- 
left  bank  of  the  river),  and  the  noma- 
dic Scythians;  to  the  west  of  them, 
between  the  Ingul  and  the  Bng,  were 
the  agricultural  Scvthians,  who  wiie 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Neuii. 
and  by  wihl  cannibals,  llie  coun- 
try between  the  nK)Uth  of  the  Bng 
(Hypanis)  and  that  <}f  the  Uniestr 
(Tyr.is)  was  held  by  the  Helleni<- 
Scythians  or  Calli})ides,  who  were 
bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  Alazoni. 

In  the  days  of  Herodotus  the  Sevth- 
ianshad  neitlier  towns  nor  settlements, 
for  they  led  a  nomadic  life,  although 
some  of  the  tribes  were  tillers  of  the 
soil.  They  were  all  gradually  driven 
back  from  the  sea-coast  by  the  enter- 
prising  (Jreeks  of  Miletus  in  A.sia 
^Nlinor,  who  planted  nearly  300  colonies 
al<tng  the  shore  of  tin;  Euxine.  Near 
the  mouth  of  tlieBorysthenes^ Dniepr ;, 
and  at  its  junction  with  the  llypaiiis 
(Bug),  lay  their  capital  Ulbia,  also 
called  Borysthenes.  Herodotus  di*- 
scribes  it  as  surrounded  by  a  wall  with 
many  towers,  and  as  distinguished  for 
its  extensive  trade,  and  the  civilization 
of  its  iidiabitants.  The  greater  part 
of  these  colonies  existed  in  the  early 
ages  of  Christianity,  but  they  were 
finallv  reduced  J)y  tin*  Ifomans,  wIiom; 
coins,  found  in  considerable  numbers, 
are  principally  of  the  Antonine  epoch. 
— i.e.  of  the  2nd  and  early  jiart  of  the' 
3rd  centy.  a.d.  About  that  time  the 
wild  Sarmatians,  and  later  the  Goths, 
the  Huns,  and  otlii-r  races,  issued  out 
of  the  ri'motest  parts  of  Asia  and  <le- 
stroyed  all  before  them,  leaving  oidy 
the  tumuli  which  the  traveller  will 
see  on  his  way  to  Kherson,  and  which 
have  yielded  such  inestimable  trea- 
sm-es  to  the  Hermitage  Museum  at 
St.  Petersburg  (vide  description). 

The  date  of  the  arrival  of  the  Slavon- 
ian races  on  the  shore  of  the  P^uxine 
cannot  be  ascertained  with   any  ac- 


Russia. 


Houte  Ifi. — Kherson. 


27.1 


curacy.  Mention  is  made  of  them  on 
the  Dniepr  in  the  7th  centy.  of  our  era, 
and  Nestor  asserts  that  Slavonian 
towns  existed  on  its  banks  in  his  days. 
But  however  this  may  be,  the  noma- 
dic Khazars,  I'echenegians,  and  I*o- 
lovtses,  must  have  expelled  the  pas- 
toral Slavonians  and  laid  the  country 
waste.  In  the  l;5th  ceutv.  the  Mon- 
gols  j)assed  <»ver  the  same  highway, 
and  for  .550  years  made  the  S.  of 
Russia  their  great  camping-ground 
and  basis  of  operations  against  the 
Russian  ]>rincipalities.  AVhen  the 
Slavonians  were  driven  back  into 
Russia,  the  Lithuanian  })rinces  hast- 
ened to  take  i)ossession  of  the  coast, 
but  they  were  obliged  at  last  to  give 
way  to  the  Turks  and  the  Tartars, 
from  whom  the  Russians  ultimately 
conquered  their  pre.sent  domini<»n  t>n 
the  Black  Sea.  After  many  struggba 
Kussia  obtained,  in  1701,  from  the 
Turks  the  province  of  Ot<?hakof,  be- 
r-ween  the  Bug,  Dniestr,  a)id  Kodyma. 
The  restoration  of  the  ancient  king- 
dom of  Greece,  and  the  expnlsion  of 
ihe  Tiurks,  iiow  loecame  the  tavourite 
project  of  Catherme,  and  she  at  once 
devoted  all  her  energies  to  its  realiza- 
tion. The  steppes  were  colonized  and 
the  nucleus  of  a  navy  was  laid  on  the 
spot,  which  has  since  Ix'come  the  town 
of  Kherson — a  name  given  to  it  under 
the  then  prevalent  impression  that  the 
site  chosen  was  that  of  ancient  Kber- 
sonesus. 

Potemkin  began  the  work  with 
great  ardour,  and  in  a  year  after 
the  foundation  of  the  new  town  the 
keel  of  a  GO-gnn  frigate,  "The 
Glory  of  Catherine,"'  was  laid  in  its 
dockyard,  which  had  been  built  with 
amazing  rapidity  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  General  llainiibal,  son  of 
Ibrahim,  the  favourite  negro  godson  of 
I'eter  tlie  Great.  Potemkin  sent  no 
fewer  than  3000  carpenters  and  a 
irreat  number  of  blacksmiths  and  other 
artizans  to  the  new  i)ort.  Guns  were 
cast,  and  the  construction  of  several 
other  vessels  commenced.  In  1782, 
Antoine,  a  merchant  of  Marseilles, 
opened  the  trade  of  Kherson,  imder 
special  permission.  He  was  followed 
bv  the   "Polish   Company"   and   by 


Fabri,  an  Austrian  merchant.  In  the 
midst,  however,  of  its  successes,  Kher- 
son was  visited  by  so  dreadful  a  plague 
(1784)  that  Potemkin  was  obliged  to 
internipt  the  works  in  progress,  and 
to  prevent  all  communication  with  the 
town.  His  chief  reason  for  hastening 
the  <'onstruction  of  the  new  harbour 
was  a  desire  to  show  Catherine,  on  her 
expected  visit  to  the  S.  of  Russia,  that 
the  country  from  which  so  many  foes 
(^\  Itussia  had  issued  had  become  with- 
in a  short  time  a  Russian  stronghold 
against  the  Turks,  who  were  destined 
lo  be,  sacrificed  to  the  favourite  Greek 
project  of  the  empress. 

Catherine  II.  performe<l  the  joiu-ney 
in  1787,  with  extraordinary  pomp,  mak- 
ing the  world  resomid  with  the  spleu- 
dr»ur  of  her  progress  through  her  vast 
dominions.  From  Kief  the  empress  prc»- 
ceeded  down  the  Dniepr,  and  at  a  small 
place  called  Novye  Kodaika,  a  littb- 
above  the  town  of  Ekaterinoslaf,  she 
met  the  Emperor  Joseph  II.,  who 
mider  the  title  of  Count  Falken  stein 
reached  Kherson  on  the  17th  May 
1787,  for  the  purpose  of  having  an 
interview  with  the  "  Queen  of  thr 
North."  On  the  24th  May  Catherine 
arrived  at  Kherson  with  all  her  suite, 
and  found  there  the  nephew  of  the 
Kin^  of  Poland,  Prince  Stanislaus 
Poniatowski,  and  the  Russian  ambas- 
sador to  the  Porte,  Bulgakof.  In  a 
letter  to  the  governor  of  Moscow  the 
empress  says,  "  We  reached  this  town 
yesterday  evening.  This  child  did 
uftt  exist  8  years  ago.  First  we 
j)assed  by  the  stone  barracks  of  the 
(j  regiments,  then  turning  to  the  right 
entered  the  fortress,  which  will  stan<l 
well  after  it  is  finished  this  summei-, 
and  will  be  far  better  than  the  for- 
tress of  Kief.  Many  military  build- 
ings within  the  fortress  are  ready, 
others  are  on  the  point  of  being 
finished  ;  the  stone  church  is  beautiful. 
When  I  say  stone,  do  not  imagine 
that  I  sj^eak  of  bricks :  the  only  stone 
known  here  is  that  which  is  taken 
out  of  the  ground  and  placed  on  the 
walls  ;  it  is  stronger  than  freestone, 
and  does  not  attract  the  damp.  Leav- 
ing the  fortress,  we  turned  into  the 
Admiralty,  where  all  the  storehouses 

o  3 


276 


Bon  te  1 G . — Berhlaf, 


Sect.  II. 


are  of  stone,  and  roofed  with  iron. 
On  the  stocks  we  found  an  80-gim 
ship,  which  will  be  launched,  (^lod 
willinu:,  on  Saturday.  Next  to  it  is 
a  ()6-<;un  ship  ready,  and  another  of 
55  i'uns.  I  see  them  from  the  window 
of  the  room  in  which  I  write.  The 
j;arden  of  this  house  is  next  the  Ad- 
miralty and  the  wharf.  I  have  not 
yet  seen  the  merchants,  who  occupy  a 

suburb Besides  the  military 

there  are  great  nunibcTs  of  people  here 
from  all  parts  of  Europe.  1  may  say 
that  my  intentions  in  this  part  of  the 
country  have  been  carried  out  to  an 
extent  that  deserves  tlie  utmost  praise. 
A  zealous  care  is  visible  throughout, 
and  the  people  chosen  are  capable." 

TJie  empress  spent  five  days  in  view- 
ing the  town,  and  in  bestowing  rewards. 
To  commemorate  her  visit,  she  caused 
the  following  Slavonic  inscription  to  be 
placed  over  tlie  Cathedral  of  St,  Cathe- 
rine:— "Dedicated  to  the  Saviour  (»f 
tlie  human  race  by  Catherine  II. ;" 
wliile  in  the  garden  of  the  house  she 
occupied  slie  planted  tlie  seed  of  an 
apricot,  wliich  has  since  grown  to  a 
magnilicent  tree  yielding  nearly  400 
lbs.  of  fruit.  In  the  same  cathedral 
she  caus<>d  her  favourite  Potemkin  to 
be  l)iiried  in  171)1,  but  the  EmjKTor 
i'uul  ordered  his  remains  to  be  ex- 
humed, and  to  be  "  buried  in  a  liole 
under  the  floor  of  the  crypt,  filling  the 
crypt  with  eartli,  and  levelling  it  as  if 
it  had  never  existed."  Sucli  was  tlic 
vengeance  of  licr  son  on  the  foimder  of 
Kherson. 

To  the  English  traveller  Klierson  is 
of  particular  interest  as  the  place  near 
which  the  body  of  the  philanthropic 
Howard  reposes.  The-  monument  to  his 
memory  stands  near  the  Ch.  of  the  As- 
sumption and  without  the  barrier  of 
Kherson.  It  is  a  simple  pyramid,  with 
poplars  around  it,  and  is  enclosed  by  a 
high  circular  wall  with  an  iron  gate  in 
front.  The  inscription  on  it,  trans- 
lated, is  as  follows  : — 

HOWARD 

died  on  the  20th  Januarv, 

in  the  year  1790, 
in  the  65th  year  of  his  age. 

It  is  sad  to  say  that  the  monument  is 


in  rather  bad  repair,  and  the  first  letter 
of  the  philanthropist's  name  has  been 
obliterated  by  some  mischievous  per- 
son. His  virtues,  like  his  name,  have 
nearly  faded  away  from  the  remem- 
lirance  of  the  local  inhabitants ;  for  the 
yamstchik,  if  asked  to  whom  the  monu- 
ment has  been  raised,  will  in  most 
cases  answer,  "  To  Forar,  a  builder 
of  towns."  Contrary  to  the  generally 
accepted  account  of  the  death  of 
Howjtrd  from  prison-fever,  caught  in 
the  zealous  dis;cljarge  of  his  self- 
imposed  mission,  Dr.  Clarke  relates 
in  his  travels  that  in  the  month  of 
Nov.*  1789,  Howard  was  requested  to 
visit  a  3Ta(hMiioi.selle  During,  who 
lived  on  the  ])anks  of  the  Dniepr,  at 
tlie  distance  of  10  iii.  from  Kherson, 
lu  a  liglit  old-fashioned  dress,  in  silk 
stix-kings,  and  without  a  great-coat,  he 
set  otf  on  horseback.  The  day  was 
windy  and  coM,  and  he  had  a  fall  l>y 
the  way.  He  caught  a  cold,  wliich  was 
followed  by  a  fever,  and  which  ter- 
minated in  death. 

The  traveller  who  wishes  to  enter 
the  Crimea  by  way  of  Peiekop  is  re- 
commended to  taki;  the  steamer  which 
leaves  Kherson  three  times  a  week  for 
the  towns  on  the  Dniepr,  ascending 
as  high  as  Nicopol,  a  town  of  about  7000 
Inhab.,  with  a  considerable  trade  in 
wheat  and  hemp.  Many  INIennonites, 
descended  from  those  who  emigrated 
to  Kussia  from  Prussia  in  1789,  f>ccuj>y 
lands  in  the  vicinity  ;  their  jirincijial 
colony,  however,  being  on  the  river  Mo- 
lotchna,  E.  of  Nicopol.*  The  steamer 
should  l)e  left  at 

Uekislaf,  on  1.  bank  of  Dniepr. 
Pop.  GOOO. 

This  town  was  founded  by  the  Turks 
in  alx)ut  1450.  In  1090  Peter  the 
(Jreat  took  the  Turkish  fortress  of 
Kyzi-Kermen,  which  stood  here.  It 
was  called  Berislaf  in  1784.  A  third 
of  the  population  is  composed  of  Jews, 
who  carry  on  a  small  trude  in  wheat 
and  timbi'r.      The  high    road  to   the 

*  A  very  interesting  description  of  thofie 
b.ettlers,  and  generally  of  tlie  S.  of  llussia,  is 
given  in  Pctzholiit'.>  '  Heise  in  Westlicht  n  und 
SUdlichen  liussland  lin  Jahre  is.'i.^.'  T^eipzig, 
1861. 


E 


ussia. 


Boute  17. — Odessa  to  the  Crimea. 


277 


Crimea  passes  through  the  town,  and 
the  stations  between  it  and  Perekop, 
over  a  dreary  plain,  are 

Kachofka,  5  v. 

Tchernaya  Dolina,  2G  v. 

Tchaplinka,  25  v. 

Perekop,  82  v.  from  Bereslaf,  and 
132  from  Simpheropol.     Pop.  4000. 

The  isthmus  of  Perekop,  by  which 
the  Crimea  is  connected  with  the  con- 
tinent of  Russia,  is  about  5  m.  broad, 
and  stretches  from  the  bay  of  Kar- 
kinite  on  the  side  of  the  Black  Sea  to 
the  large  lake  called  the  Sivash  or 
Putrid  Sea,  which  again  communftates 
with  the  Sea  of  Azof  by  the  Straits  of 
Genitchi.  The  isthmus  is  defended  by 
an  irregular  fortress  erected  on  the  S. 
side  of  a  deep  ditch,  and  protected  by 
a  high  wall  built  of  freestone,  stretch- 
ing right  across  the  isthmus,  which 
rises  slightly  in  the  middle.  The  fosse 
and  the  wall  are  said  to  have  been 
formed  in  ancient  times  by  the  in- 
liabitants  of  the  peninsula  to  defend 
themselves  against  the  incursions  of 
the  nomades  of  the  steppe.  The 
taphros  or  ditch  of  the  more  ancient 
geographers,  and  the  "  new  wall "  of 
Ptolemy,  lie  about  1^  m.  S.  of  Perekop. 

The  town  and  fortress  were  founded 
in  the  latter  part  of  the  15th  centy.  by 
the  Tartars.  They  were  taken  by  the 
Kussians  first  in  1736.  In  1738  the 
fortress  was  retaken  by  the  Russians, 
and  blown  up.  Khan  Krim-Ghirey 
repaired  the  fortifications,  but  the 
greater  part  of  the  inhabitants,  mostly 
Armenians  and  Greeks,  having  suffered 
much  from  both  Russians  and  Tartars, 
removed  5  m.  S.  of  Perekop,  and  founded 
the  colony  of  Armianski-i3azar,  now  a 
suburb  of  Perekop.  In  1771  the  lines 
of  Perekop  were  stormetl  once  more  by 
the  Russians,  and  the  town  was  finally 
incorporated  with  the  empire  in  1783. 

At  the  present  time  there  is  a  bridge 
across  the  fosse,  and  a  stone  gateway, 
which  presents  rather  an  interesting 
appearance  as  seen  from  the  N.  In 
Armianski-Bazar,  which  is  now  the 
principal  part  of  Perekop,  is  a  mosque 
with  two  minarets,  and  a  Russian  and 
an  Armenian  ch. 

From   Perekop  the  post-road  runs 


over  an  arid  steppe,  and  is  marked  by 
handsome  stone  columns  indicating 
the  versts,  which  were  placed  there 
when  Catherine  II.  made  her  memor- 
able visit  to  the  Crimea  in  1787.  The 
stations  to  Simpheropol  are : — 

Uslmn,  24  v. 

Dyurmen,  21  v. 

Aibar,  24  v.  At  this  station  the 
Tchatyr  Dagh  bursts  in  view. 

Ablan,  22  v. 

Saraljuz,  22  v. 

Simpheropol,  19  v.  For  description 
of  this  town,  and  routes  leading  from 
it,  vide  following  route. — Odessa  to  the 
Crimea. 


ROUTE   17. 

ODESSA  TO  THE  CRIMEA  BY  SEA;  EUPA- 
TORIA  TO  KERTCH,  AND  EXCURSIONS 
THROUGH  THE  CRIMEA. 

In  summer  the  steamers  of  the  Rus- 
sian Steam  Navigation  Company  leave 
Odessa  twice  a  week  for  the  ports  of 
the  Crimea  between  Eupatoria  and 
Kertch,  performing  the  entire  voyage 
to  Kertch  in  little  more  than  48  hom-s. 
On  their  return  they  touch  at  the  same 
ports  according  to  a  time-table  which 
is  published  at  Odessa.  They  are  very 
comfortably  fitted  up  with  a  ladies' 
cabin,  gentlemen's  cabin,  and  a  saloon 
containing  a  library  and  a  piano  ;  and 
there  will  generally  be  found  on  board 


278 


Boute  17. — Eupatoria — Sevastopol.  Sect.  II. 


an  officer  speaking  English.  The  liv- 
ing is  good,  but  tlie  charges,  which  arc 
inclusive  of  board,  are  rather  high,  the 
fare  first  class  to  Sevastopol  being  17 
roubles. 

There  are  no  Custom-house  formali- 
ties to  be  observed  on  landing  in  tlie 
Crimea,  as  the  steamer  will  not  have 
touched  at  any  foreign  port. 

The  traveller  may  desire  to  disem- 
bark at  Eupatorin,  which  will  l)e 
reached  after  a  voyage  of  about  16 
hours. 

EupATORiA,  76  V.  N.W.  of  Simphero- 
pol.    Poj>.  7000. 

History.  —  This  town,  famous  as 
the  place  near  wliicli  the  Anglo- 
French  troops  landed  on  the  14th 
September,  1854,  stands  on  a  sandy 
spit  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  Black 
Sea.  Coronites,  a  Greek  colony,  is 
•mpposed  to  have  existed  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood in  the  days  of  Herodotus, 
<)r  five  centuries  before  Christ.  In 
the  1st  centy.  of  our  era,  Dioplian- 
tus,  a  general  under  Mithridates, 
founded  here  a  fortress  which  he  called 
Eupatoria.  At  the  latter  part  of  the 
1.5th  centy.  the  Turks  had  a  fortress 
at  Eupatoria,  and  its  name  of  Gezleve' 
was  later  changed  by  the  Eussians  to 
Kozlof.  As  Gesleve',  it  was  one  of  the 
most  flourishing  towns  in  the  Crimea. 
It  was  occupied  for  the  first  time  by  the 
Russians  under  Field-Marslial  Min- 
nich  in  1736,  and  later  by  the  troops 
under  Prince  Dolgorukof,  1771.  An- 
nexed finally  to  Russia  in  1783,  it  was 
made  the  chief  town  of  a  district  in 
the  province  of  the  Taurida. 

The  trade  of  Eujmtoria  is  incon- 
siderable, the  exports  (com,  wool,  hides, 
tallow)  not  amounting  to  half  a  mil- 
lion of  roubles  in  value. 

There  is  nothing  to  be  seen  at  Eupa- 
toria except  a  rather  handsome  syna- 
gogue of  the  KaKiim  Jews,  who  are 
distinguished  from  other  Jews  by  their 
rejecting  of  the  Talmud,  and  recognis- 
ing only  the  Bible  as  their  authority. 
An  old  mosque,  built  after  the  plan  of 
St.  Sophia  at  Constantinople,  is  the 
only  other  object  of  interest.  It  has 
14  cupolas,  and  no  minaret. 

As  t!ie  steamor  gen^rnlly  ?romnins 


about  an  hour  at  Eupatoria,  the  tra- 
veller, if  so  minded,  can  have  a  look 
at  the  town,  and,  returning  on  lxi:u-d, 
continue  the  voyage  to  Sevastoi)ol :  or 
he  may  procure  a  podnrojna  (order  for 
post-horses)  and  take  the  overliuid 
route  to  Bakhtchesarai  and  Sevastopol, 
passing  through  Saki,  15  v.  from 
Eupatoria,  where  there  are  mud- 
springs  famous  for  their  cures  in  rhcn- 
matic  and  paralytic  cases,  and  through 
Alma,  Tauiak,  and  Burluk,  Tartar  vil- 
lages. He  may  also  make  an  excur- 
sion hence  to  the  battle-field  of  Alma, 
which  is  more  easily  reached  from 
Eupatoria  than  from  Bakhtchesarai. 
For  description  of  Alma,  vide  Excur- 
sion 4  (Bakhtchesarai  to  Simphentpol), 
and  for  that  of  the  Imttle,  Historical 
Notice.  Although  this  route  would  be 
preferred  by  a  native  traveller,  the 
English  or  American  tourist  >vill 
find  it  easier  to  land  at  Sevastopol,  and 
still  better  at  Yalta,  and  to  make  ex- 
cursions to  Bakhtchesarai,  and  o+h»^f 
places  from  thenc'i?. 

The  steamer  takes  about  t*  hours  t*. 
j)r(X»e<'d  from  Eupatoria  to 

Sevastopol,  near  S.W.  point  of  tin- 
Crimea,  38  m.  S.W.  of  Simpheropol, 
190  m.  S.E.  of  Odessa,  and  340  m. 
N.E.  of  Constantinople.  Pop.  8O0O. 
Uoteh:  Wetzel's,  on  tlie  S.  side,  clean 
and  comfortable.  The  landlord,  a 
German,  speaks  English.  The  charges 
are  1  rouble  per  diem  for  a  room,  and 
the  other  items  are  not  dear.  The 
house  connnunicates  with  the  Boule- 
vard, from  whence  a  capital  view  of 
the  town,  harbour,  and  various  creeks 
may  be  obtained.  Tlie  house  was  for- 
merly the  residence  of  Admiral  Xak- 
himof.  Kyst's  Hotel,  second  best ; 
likewise  near  the  landing-idace. 

Vehicles. — These  are  rather  scarce 
and  dear.  The  fare  within  the  town 
is  50  copecks  per  hour.  The  charge 
for  a  drive  to  Inkerman  and  other 
places  in  the  vicinity  is  a  rouble  and  a 
half  the  first  hour,  and  75  copecks  for 
the  remainder  of  the  time.  A  bar- 
gain mav.  however,  be  struck  for  G  to 
8  roubles  a  day  for  a  drojky  and  a 
pair  of  horses.  The  driver  will  begin 
bv      asking     10     roubles.      Riding- 


Hussia. 


Boute  17. —  The  Crimea. 


279 


horses  may  also  be  procured.  As 
Sevastopol  is  much  frequented  in  sum- 
mer, the  traveller  will  easily  find  a 
party  of  his  own  countrymen  bent  on 
the  same  excursions  as  himself,  and 
ready  to  share  their  cost. 

Guides. — These  will  be  obtained  at 
the  hotel.  Spiro,  who  has  been  placed 
in  charge  of  the  English  graveyards, 
knows  the  position  of  all  those  sad 
mementoes  of  the  war.  He  speaks 
Italian,  Russian,  and  Greek,  but  his 
English  is  very  imperfect.  Several 
Jew  factors  will  oifer  their  services,  as 
well  as  carriages  and  saddle-horses. 
The  proprietor  of  the  hotel  is  always 
ready  to  arrange  these  matters  for 
tmvellers. 

History. — Before  learning  the  his- 
toi-y  of  Sevastopol,  the  traveller  will 
desire  to  have  a  general  sketch  of  the 
history  of  the  peninsula  itself. 

The  Crimea,  or  the  Taurida,  an- 
.•iently  called  the  Khersonesus  Tau- 
rica,  is  a  peninsula  in  the  Black  Sea, 
occupying  an  area  of  564  aiuare  geo- 
graphical miles  exclusive  of  the  Si- 
vash  or  Putrid  Sea,  by  which  it  is 
almost  cut  oft'  on  the  E.  and  N.  from 
the  Rust,ian  continent.  It  is  one  of 
the  few  parts  of  Russia  that  were 
known  to  the  ancients,  and  the  first 
mention  of  it  is  in  connection  with  the 
expedition  of  the  Argonauts  and  the 
Trojan  War.  The  remoter  inhabitants 
of  the  peninsula  were  the  almost  fabu- 
lous Cimmerians,  and  then  the  Tauri, 
who  are  supposed  by  some  authorities 
to  have  lived  in  the  caves  which  are 
still  to  be  seen  on  the  hill-sides  a))out 
Inkerman.  Stone  monuments,  similar 
in  character  to  the  druidical  rem-iiins 
in  other  parts  of  Europe,  are  likewise 
attributed  to  the  same  people,  who 
were  driven  back  to  the  hills  by 
the  Scythians  who  came  down  from 
the  north,  and  eventually  became 
known  as  the  Tauric  Scythians. 
The  Greeks,  who,  as  we  have  already 
seen  at  Kherson,  established  their 
colonies  along  the  shore  of  the  Euxine 
about  the  6th  centy.  B.C.,  kept  up 
a  continual  warfare  with  the  abori- 
genes.  In  the  1st  centy.  a.c,  Mithri- 
dates the  Great,  the  famous  King  of 
Pontus,  defeated  the  Tauric-Scythians, 


and  made  the  Greek  colonies  of  the 
Taurida  subject  to  his  rule.  He  was 
compelled  to  put  an  end  to  his  life 
(A.D.  63)  by  his  son  Pharuaces,  who, 
having  hastened  to  make  his  submis- 
sion to  Pompey,  received  from  him  the 
kingdom  of  the  Bosporus,  with  the 
titles  of  friend  and  ally  of  the  Roman 
l)eople.  It  was  after  a  battle  gained 
later  by  Ctesar  over  Phamaces  near 
Zela  (in  Asia  Minor)  that  the  former 
wrote  the  celebrated  despatch  to  the 
Senate  of  Rome,  —  '-Veni:  Yidi  : 
Vici." 

At  the  downfall  of  the  Roman  em- 
pire, Taurida,  with  its  G reek  colon ie.-. 
became  part  of  the  Empire  of  the  East. 
The  great  migration  of  nations  threw 
a  certain  number  of  Huns  into  the 
peninsula,  which  was  later  occupied 
by  the  Khazars.  At  the  same  time 
the  greater  part  of  the  seabord  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  Byzan- 
tines. In  988  Vladimir  Prince  of 
Kief  conquered  Khersonesus.  and 
tliere  embmced  the  Christian  religion, 
whicli  had  been  only  partially  intr*»- 
duced  into  Russia  by  Olga  his  grenr^- 
mother  in  955.  Next  came  tJje 
Polovtses,  and  lastly,  in  the  l:>th 
centy.,  the  greater  part  of  the  penin- 
sula was  conquered  by  the  Tartar.^. 
During  the  same  age,  however,  tlie 
Venetians  and  Genoese  penetmted  to 
the  Black  Sea,  and  founded  colonies 
on  its  coast.  Their  principal  settle- 
ment was  Kafta,  now  called  Theodo- 
sia.  The  Genoese  were  strong  enoug 1 1 
to  keep  the  Tartars  in  check  until  liie 
15th  centy.,  when  the  latter  con>ti- 
tuted  themselves  into  a  distinct 
"Horde,"  and  placed  themselves  under 
the  suzerainty  of  the  Turks,  who  had 
by  this  time  taken  Constantinople.  By 
a  common  efibrt,  in  1475,  they  put 
an  end  to  the  dominion  of  the  Genoese 
in  the  Tam-ida.  The  Turks  established 
themselves  at  the  seaports,  and  the 
Tartars  occupied  the  hills  and  the 
interior  of  the  peninsula. 

The  Tartar  city  of  "  Eski-Ki-im." 
now  called  "  Stary  (old)  Krim,"  23  v. 
from  Theodosia,  was  a  place  of  great 
celebrity  even  in  the  14th  centy.,  and 
the  Horde  continued  to  exist  under  the 
dynasty  of  the  Ghireys  until  the  end 


280 


Boute  17. — Sevastopol, 


Sect.  II. 


of  the  18th  centy.  The  traveller  will 
liave  read  in  many  pages  of  this 
Handbook  of  the  dreadful  incursions 
of  the  Crimean  and  other  Tartars, 
and  how  they  overran  and  held  a 
considerable  part  of  South  Russia. 
Tlie  troops  of  Catherine  II.  began 
to  drive  them  back  in  173G,  and  in 
1771  General  Dolgorukof  occupied 
the  whole  of  the  peninsula  with  liis 
army,  and  caused  Sliagin  Ghirey  to 
be  elected  khan  under  the  suzerainty 
of  Russia.  Kertcli  and  Ycnikah- 
were  then  wiested  fiom  tlie  Turks 
bv  the  Treaty  of  Kuchuk  Kainardji, 
1774.  In  1782  the  Tartars  rose 
against  their  khan,  the  vassjd  of 
Russia,  and  the  Turks  endeavoured 
to  regain  possession  of  the  i)onin- 
sula,  which  was  thereupon  occupied 
by  the  Russian  troops,  and  formally 
annexed  to  the  empire  on  tlie  20tli 
April,  1783.  Some  of  the  descendants 
of  the  old  khans  are  now  ofHcers  in 
the  Russian  army.  One  of  them  was 
educated  in  Scotland,  and  married  a 
Scotchwoman.  In  1784  the  peninsula 
constituted  the  province  of  Taurida 
and  in  1802  it  was  made  a  "  govern- 
ment," a  term  which  has  been  through- 
out this  book  rendered  by  the  word 
"•province." 

Ever  since  its  annexation  to  Russia 
the  Crimea  has  been  an  object  of  great 
solicitude  to  the  Russian  government, 
and,  on  the  ccimpletion  of  the  rlys. 
now  in  course  of  construction,  its  im- 
portance will  still  further  ])e  in- 
creased, notwithstanding  the  present 
powerless  condition  of  Sevastopol. 

The  want  of  water  is  a  great  draw- 
back to  the  Crimea,  It  is  intersected 
by  49  small  rivers  and  rivulets,  but  all 
of  them  are  so  small  as  to  be  fordablo 
except  after  the  melting  of  the  moun- 
tain snows,  or  a  very  heavy  fall  of 
rain.  There  are  about  400  salt  lakes, 
of  which  the  richest  in  salt  arc  those 
near  the  Perekop.  Vegetation  is  only 
luxuriant  in  the  hilly  parts  of  the 
Crimea.  The  oak,  beech,  and  pine 
cover  all  the  hill-sides,  wliile  in  the 
valleys  and  on  the  S.  coast  the  laurel, 
cypress,  and  many  acclimatized  species 
abound.  The  fruit  of  the  Crimea  is 
celebrated,    and   its    vinevards    now 


yield  an  average  of  27,000  hogsheads 
of  wine  (600,000  vedros).  Although 
wheat,  rye,  and  other  corn  are  grown, 
agriculture  is  not  so  generally  pursued 
as  cattle  -  grazing  and  sheep  -  farm- 
ing. Merino  sheep  were  introduced 
in  1804,  and  the  breed  has  been  well 
kept  to  this  day.  The  climate  of  the 
peninsula  is  very  healthy,  except  in 
some  of  the  valleys,  where  the  air 
does  not  circulate  so  freely,  and  its 
mean  annual  temperature  is  as  fol- 
lows : — 

SiniplifTopol  +     7*^    7' I L  (about  48°  F.) 
.Sevastopol      +  UP    0' 11.  (aJxjUt  55°  F.) 

The  mean  temperature  of  those 
j>laces  in  summer  is  severally  -h  lo'^  6' 
and  +  18^  1'  R.,  or  07"  and  73^  F. 

The  annual  rainfall  at  Simpheropol 
is  14'83  inches,  and  at  Sevastopol 
707  inches. 

But  to  revert  to  Sevastopol.  Its 
history,  prior  to  the  memorable  siege, 
may  be  told  in  a  very  few  words. 
When  the  Crimea  was  annexed  to 
Russia,  Catherine  ordered  an  expedi- 
tion to  ])e  sent  round  the  coast  for  the 
purpose  of  surveying  the  bay  of  Ak- 
tiar,  or  "  Wliite  Rock,"  where  the 
Tartars  had  a  small  village.  Vice- 
Admiral  Klokachef  entered  the  bay 
with  the  Azof  tiotilla,  which  he  com- 
manded, and,  having  reported  favour- 
ably of  its  capabilities,  Rear-Admiral 
Mackenzie,  one  of  the  many  English- 
men in  the  Russian  service,  and  later 
Colonel  Upton,  were  charged  with  the 
construction  of  a  military  harbour. 
With  great  activity  the  former  con- 
structed barracks,  storehouses,  a  navy 
yard,  and  an  hospital,  the  materials 
used  in  their  construction  being  the 
historical  stones  of  Khersonesus.  In 
1784  the  empress  ordered  the  port  to  Ijo 
called  Sevastopol.* 

*  A  note  to  Mr.  H.  D.  Soyniour's  work  says, — 
"  8('vastoi>ol  or  Sevastopcjlis,  is  composed  of  two 
Grifk  words  '  Sebiustos,'  moaning;  Augustus,  and 
'polls,'  a  city;  and  it  was  tht*  name  of  a  CJreek 
city  of  the  Lower  Kmpireon  the  eastern  coast  of 
the  Black  Sea  in  Abkhazia."  Dr.  Charnock  is  of 
opinion  that  the  name  means  "Jjovereipn"  or 
"  most  sacred  city."  In  his  work  entitled  '  Local 
Etymology,'  I^ndon,  1h58,  the  etymology  of 
many  Russian  geographical  names  will  be 
luuinl. 


Russia. 


Boute  17. — Sevastopol. 


281 


In  1787  she  passed  two  days  there 
together  with  the  Emperor  Joseph 
II.,  who  had  accompanied  her  from 
Kherson.  At  a  great  outlay  of  money, 
Sevastopol  became,  under  successive 
sovereigns,  one  of  the  finest  mihtary 
harbours  in  Europe.  The  traveller  will 
now  jiroceed  to  inspect  its  ruins. 

A  large  bay  divides  Sevastopol  into 
two  parts  —  the  northern  and  the 
southern.  On  the  left  or  northern 
side  the  traveller  will  see,  on  steaming 
up  the  biiy,  some  of  the  fortific^itions, 
and  i)articularly  the  gigantic  Fort 
Constantino,  of  3  stories.  There  also 
will  be  seen  a  few  houses  and  build- 
ings, which  have  for  the  most  part  been 
raised  during  and  since  the  war.  The 
town  lies  on  the  rt.  side  of  the  narrow 
creek  on  the  S.,  which  runs  parallel 
with  the  great  or  northern  bay.  On 
the  1.  or  Korabelnaya  side  of  the 
creek  were  once  the  docks,  barracks, 
hospital,  &c.,  now  a  mass  of  ruins. 

The  steamer  will  bring  up  at  the 
entrance  of  the  southern  creek,  near 
to  what  was  formerly  known  as  the 
"Grafskaya  Pristan,"  or  "Count's 
Landing  Place  " — broad  stone  stairs, 
leading  down  to  the  water's  edge,  with 
a  pavilion  above,  formed  of  2  rows  of 
wliite  columns,  covered  in  at  the  top. 
A  splendid  view  of  the  sea  is  obtained 
from  the  top  of  these  stiiirs,  and  if  the 
night  be  moonlit  the  tourist  will  be 
attracted  to  the  spot  by  the  wonderful 
Ijeauty  of  the  scene.  Near  the  stjurs 
will  be  seen  the  ruins  of  Fort  Nicholas, 
which  once  had  3  ranges  of  bastions, 
one  alx)ve  the  other,  and  was  mounted 
with  200  cannon,  the  fire  of  which  was 
intended  to  cross  that  of  the  batteries 
of  the  Admiralty.  A  short  distance 
from  here  are  the  two  hotels  already 
mentioned,  and  the  office  of  the  Russian 
Steam  Navigation  Company. 

On  landing,  the  traveller  will  find 
himself  surrounded  by  ruins.  The 
first  object  that  will  strike  him  will  lie 
a  badly  designed  Monu  ment  tu  Kazarski, 
a  Russian  naval  commander,  who,  in 
1828-29,  captured  2  Turkish  frigates 
which  had  attacked  his  brig.  It  stands 
on  the  Boulevard,  at  the  end  of  which 
will  be  seen  the  walls  of  a  large  house, 
once  the  "  Assembly  Hall  of  the  No- 


bility.*' Past  the  boulevard  (on  which 
the  traveller  will  find  a  restaurant)  the 
town  continues  to  present  itself  in  a 
mass  of  ruins,  with  here  and  there  a 
house  rebuilt.  Not  fur  from  the  end 
of  the  boulevard,  on  a  slight  elevation, 
is  a  large  0/i.,  dedicated  to  St.  Vladi- 
mir, in  course  of  construction.  In  it 
are  buried  the  Russian  admirals, 
Lazaref,  Kornilof,  Istomin,  and  Nak- 
himof.  The  first-named  died  3  years 
before  the  siege.  A  moniunent  to  the 
3  defenders  of  Sevastopol  will  be 
erected  later  within  the  ch. 

The  town  spreads  along  the  whole 
of  the  southern  bay,  and  rises  gradually 
towards  the  S.  Beyond  its  further 
houses  begin  the  ruins  of  its  fortifica- 
tions and  batteries,  the  trenches  of  the 
besiegers,  their  exploded  mines,  &c. 
Most  of  these  works  have  been  filled 
up  and  levelled,  but  it  is  still  easy  to 
distinguish  where  the  Russian  earth- 
works and  bastions  terminated,  an<l 
where  the  siege- works  and  batteries  of 
the  allies  began.  The  centre  of  the 
Russian  line  of  defence  was  the 
"  Fourth  Bastion"  or  Flagdaff  Bat- 
tery, now  a  gentle  elevation  which 
will  be  pointed  out  by  the  cicerone. 
Most  of  the  mines  were  directed 
against  it. 

From  the  highest  point  of  this  ele- 
vation a  fine  view  of  Sevastopol  will 
be  obtained. 

In  order  to  get  to  the  Malahhof 
Tower,  the  traveller  will  have  to  drive 
roiuid  the  whole  of  the  S.  side,  ixist 
the  huge  ruins  of  the  Naval  BaiTacks 
and  Hospital.  It  stands  at  the  end  of 
what  was  then  the  Korabelnaya  Sloho- 
da,  or  village,  marked  by  the  monument 
to  Admiral  Lazaref.  Its  capture  by 
the  French  on  the  8th  September,  1855, 
decided  the  fate  of  Sevastopol.  No 
fewer  than  30,000  Russians  are  said 
to  have  perished  in  its  defence  during 
the  siege.  Outside  the  Malakhof  are 
the  ruins  of  the  Yellow  Tower,  which 
was  at  first  the  only  work  that  pro- 
tected the  Malakhof  Kwrgraw,  or  Mound. 
Dm'ing  the  first  bombardment  all  its 
guns  were  dismounted,  and  then  were 
erected  those  formidable  earthworks 
which  became  the  key  to  Sevastopol. 
The  lower  tier  of  the  Yellow  Tower  is 


282 


Route  17. — Secasiopol. 


Sect.  IT. 


still  partly  prcsorvcMl.  An  nuox- 
plodod  mine  will  be  pointed  out  in  it 
Here  the  siege-works  of  the  French 
will  be  traced.  They  are  partly 
filled  up,  and  ore  all  overgi-own  with 
prickly  plants.  It  will  he  remcm- 
ix'rcd  that  Admiral  Kornilof  was 
killed  on  the  Malakhof,  which  was  so 
railed  after  a  warrant-officer  of  the 
llussian  navy,  who  in  peaceful  days 
made  the  Knrcjan  his  favourite  walk, 
and  subsequently  connnitted  suicide 
there,  leaving  his  name  to  be  borne  by 
a  marshal  of  France.  In  front  of  the 
Kurgan  is  a  slight  eminence  which 
was  once  the  Kamc-hufJca  Redoubt. 

The  Bedan,  Great  and  Little  (3rd  and 
2nd  bastions),  will  be  distinguished  in 
the  neighbour! itM)d  by  their  monu- 
ments. Their  description,  and  that  of 
the  other  works  on  this  side,  must  be 
left  to  the  guide,  whose  chronology 
may  be  checked  by  a  reference  ^o  the 
historical  notice. 

At  the  foot  of  the  great  stairs  the 
rourist  will  find  a  ferry-))oat  in  w^hicij 
he  can  cross  over  to  the  N.  side,  and 
view  the  Russian  cemetery,  tlie  mosi 
prominent  object  in  which  is  the  huge 
grey  pyramid  (105  ft.  high)  sur- 
mounted by  a  cross,  raised  to  the 
memory  of  the  troops  who  fell  in 
defence  of  the  city.  The  interior  of 
the  pyramid  is  converted  into  a  chapel, 
where  prayers  will  1x3  olfered  for  the 
rej)0se  of  the  souls  totalled  up  in 
thousands  on  the  black  lx)ards  outside. 
On  the  terrace  in  front  are  some 
English  guns  taken  from  the  Turks 
at  Balaclava.  The  monument  to 
Prince  Gortchakoflf,  the  Commander- 
in-Chief  of  the  Russian  forces  in  the 
Crimea,  and  who  died  at  Wart^aw  in 
18G1,  is  in  this  cemetery.  It  is  in  the 
form  of  a  chapel  which  contains  holy 
images  and  the  raarl)le  bust  of  the 
Prince,  with  an  inscription  to  the 
etfect  that  "he  died  at  Warsaw,  and 
desired  that  his  body  should  be  biu'ied 
amidst  those  defendersof  their  country 
who  did  not  permit  the  enemy  to  enter 
their  fatherland  farther  than  the  place 
where  their  graves  now  stand." 

After  rambling  about  the  ruins,  and 
viewing  both  sides  of  Sevastopol  during 
the  first  day  of  his  arrival,  the  English 


traveller  will  probably  wish  to  visit 
some  of  the  British  cemeteries.  A  de- 
.scription  of  these,  and  of  the  several 
excursions  to  be  made  in  the  Crimea, 
is  subjoinetl,  in  the  following  order  : — 

1.  The  British  cemeteries. 

2,  Drive  to  Khersonesus,  French 
cemetery,  monastery  of  St.  George,  and 
Balaclava. 

o.  Sevastopol  to  Bakhtchisarai,  pass- 
ing through  the  valley  of  Inkerman. 

4.  Baklitchif^arai  to  SimpheroiH>l. 
crossing  the  valley  of  the  Alma. 

5.  Sevastopol  to  Alupka,  through 
the  valley  of  Baidar. 

G.  Alupka  lo  Yalta,  through  Li- 
vadia. 

7.  Yalta  to  Alushta. 

8.  Alushta  to  SimpherofX)l,  and 
ascent  of  the  Tchatyr-Dagh. 

9.  Simp}ieroi>ol  to  Theodosia,  vij. 
Karasu  Bazar  and  Stary-Krim. 

10.  Alushta  to  Theodosia  and  Kericl .. 
Some  travellers  will  prefer  makin*.- 

Yalta  their  headquarters,  going  there 
direct:  by  steamer  in  30  hrs.  froro 
Odessa.  Tlie  excursions  would  then 
be: — 1.  from  Yalta  to  Sevastopol;  2. 
from  Sevastojtol  to  Bakhtchisarai,  by 
way  of  Mangup  Kale;  3.  thenee  tt. 
Sin'ipheroi)ol ;  4.  back  to  Yalta  by  way 
of  the  Tchatyr-Dagh;  and  5.  Yalta  to 
Kertcli.  The  information  conveyed  in 
the  following  sketches  of  the  excur- 
sions from  Sevastopol  will,  howev(^r, 
enable  the  traveller  to  take  the  Yalta 
route  should  he  prefer  it. 


1, —  The  Jiritixh  Cemeteries. 

In  order  to  assist  the  traveller  in 
finding  these,  we  cannot  do  y>etter  than 
refer  him  to  the  following  extract 
from  a  Rei)ort  made  to  H.  M.  Govern- 
ment by  Mr.  Consul  Eldrige  in  Nov. 
l.SGl.*  "The  number  of  cemeteri«s 
of  British  officers  and  men  who  fell 
during  the  war  of  1854,  1855,  and 
185t>,  which  I  have  been  able  to  dis- 
cover in  the  neight»ourhood  of  Sevas- 

•  The  Roport,  printed  by  H.  M.  Government, 
gives  luj  alpliabetical  list  of  the  officers  and 
privates  whose  names  are  recorded  on  the 
monuments,  and  also  shows  in  what  group  eacli 
monument  is  to  be  louud. 


Russia. 


Boute  17. — KJtersonesiis. 


283 


toix)l,  Balacla\a,  Kadikoi,  Karani,and 
Kamara  is  126 ;  they  are  spread  over 
a  space  of  ground  measuring  about 
12  m.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  about  8  m. 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  they  extend  in  the 
form  of  an  amphitheatre  from  the 
heights  of  Inkerman,  passing  through 
the  old  camps  of  the  British  army, 
near  the  Briti.>h  headquarters,  towards 
the  monastery  of  St.  (ieorge,  through 
the  villages  of  Karani,  Kadikoi,  and 
Balaclava,  to  Ivamara.  They  contain 
nearly  GOO  monuments  of  various  kinds, 
from  handsome  marble  slabs,  obelisks. 
&c.,  to  humble  wooden  crosses  and 
lx»ards:  of  these  latter  many  have 
fallen  down,  and  still  more  have  their 
inscriptions  efi'aced  by  the  effects  of 
time  and  weather  ;  of  these  no  descri])- 
tion  has  been  taken,  or  of  the  smaller 
stones  from  which  the  inscriptions  have 
disappearetl." 

In  order  to  identify  the  several 
eemeteries,  Mr.  Consul  KMrige  has 
divided  them  into  the  following  groups 
from  A  to  K : — '•  Group  A  includes 
the  cemeteries  on  the  northern  slope 
of  the  field  of  Inkerman  towards  the 
river  Tchernaya,  and  contains  12  ceme- 
teries. Group  B  includes  those  im- 
mediately on  the  field  of  the  battle  of 
Inkerman,  from  the  monimient  to 
where  the  Second  Division  was  en- 
camped in  Nov.  1854,  including  the 
graveyard  of  the  41)th  Regiment  in  a 
small*  ravine  to  the  right,  and  it  con- 
tains 8  graveyards.  Group  C  includes 
the  graveyards  in  the  immediate  vi- 
<'inity  of  the  old  windmill,  so  well 
known  to  all  who  were  in  the  Crimea ; 
this  group  contains  G  graveyards, 
(jroup  D  extends  from  the  trenches  in 
front  of  the  Redan,  through  the  eamp 
of  the  Light  Division  to  beyond  the 
military  road,  and  may  be  said  to  be 
bounded  to  the  E  by  the  Victoria  Re- 
doubt, and  to  the  W.  by  the  Wctronzoff" 
Road,  and  includes  12  cemeteries, 
(iroup  E  comprises  the  cemeteiies  in 
the  ravine  that  runs  through  the  camp 
of  the  Second  Division  from  the  "NVo- 
ronzoft'  Road  to  the  railway;  it  is 
bounded  to  the  N.  and  E.  by  the 
Woronzoif  Road,  and  to  the  W.  by 
Cathcart's  Hill,  and  contains  11  grave- 
yards.    Group  F,  or  Cathcart's  Hill 


group,  embraces  the  whole  of  the 
ground  occupied  by  the  camps  of 
the  Third  and  Fourth  Divisions,  and 
by  the  Naval  Brigade ;  it  contauis  23 
cemeteries.  Grou])  G  runs  along  the 
heights  overloijking  the  plains  of  Bala- 
clava, past  headquarters,  towards  the 
monastery  of  St.  George,  and  contains 
10  cemeteries.  Group  II  commences 
in  the  plains  of  Balaclava,  includes 
the  villages  of  Kadikoi  and  Karani,  to 
the  monastery  of  St.  George,  and  in- 
cludes 24  graveyards.  Group  I  com- 
prises the  immediate  neighbourhood 
(»f  Balaclava;  there  are  15  graveyards 
in  this  group.  Group  K  comprises 
the  positions  occupied  by  the  High- 
land Division  at  Kamara  in  1855  an«l 
1856,  and  numl)ers  4  cemeteries.  In 
addition  to  the  above  10  groups,  there 
is  a  graveyard  used  by  the  fleet  on 
the  N.  side  of  Kazatch  Bay,  which  by 
its  isolated  position  could  not  be  classi- 
fied with  the  other  cemeteries." 


2. — Drive  to  Kliersonesui^.  French  Ceme- 
tery, Monastery  of  St.  Ceorge,  and 
Balaclava. 

This  will  be  a  long  day's  work,  and 
the  tourist  must  start  early.  He  will 
tirst  cross  a  sniall  v;Jley  which  runs 
up  from  one  of  tiic  creeks,  and  then 
turn  round  the  i.ead  of  what  was 
formerly  *"  Quarantine  Bay."  On  the 
road  thence  to  Khersonesus.  which  is 
only  a]x)ut  8  m.  from  Sevastop  >] ,  a  large 
cemetery  will  be  passed.  This  was 
the  burying-ground  of  the  Russians 
before  the  Crimean  war,  and  it  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  French 
during  the  siegt;.  A  large  ch,  stan«U 
in  the  centre  of  it.  A  little  beyoml, 
the  tourist  will  come  to  some  ancient 
wells  with  which  the  history  of  the 
ruins  l^efore  him  is  intimately  con- 
nected. 

Khersonesus.  This  ancient  city 
took  its  name  from  the  small  peninsula 
on  which  it  stands,  and  which  was 
called  by  the  ancients  the  Khersonesus 
Heracleoticus.  The  peninsula  was 
called  Heracleotic  because  its  famous 
citv  was  built  7  cents,  before  Christ 


284 


Route  17. — Khersonesm. 


Sect.  II. 


by  colonists  from  Heraclea,  a  town  on 
the  opposite  coast  of  the  Black  Sea.* 
This  little  peninsula  of  a  peninsula  is 
liij^li  and  rocky,  and  is  on  tliree  sides 
.surrounded  by  water,  while  on  the 
land  side  it  is  cut  oft'  from  the  rest  of 
the  Crimea  by  a  low  valley  running 
between  Inkerman  and  Balaclava.  A 
wall  which  marked  its  limits  may 
still  b<^  traced  runnin.2:  from  the  Tcher- 
naya  Retchka,  a  little  above  Inkcr- 
nuin,  to  Balaclava,  for  a  distance  of 
T)  m.,  at  tlie  f<x)t  of  tlie  hills,  extiaiding 
l)arallel  with  tlie  valley  on  which  the 
main  part  of  the  British  army,  and 
later  the  division  of  (General  Bo.squet, 
were  encamped.  The  whole  of  this 
enclosure  was  in  ancient  times  occupied 
])y  the  gardens  and  villas  of  the  in- 
habitants of  Khersonesus,  and  the 
space  within  the  wall  is  covered  witii 
ruins,  among  which  the  boundary 
marks  of  the  fields  and  gardens,  and 
tlie  plans  of  many  houses,  may  still  bu 
distinctly  traced. f 

The  ruins  of  the  town  lie  on  the 
])romontory  between  the  Quarantine 
and  Streletska  bays,  and  its  limits  are 
marked  bv  the  remains  of  a  wall  which 
was  carried  from  the  head  of  Quaran- 
tine Bay  across  the  isthmus  to  the  Bay 
of  Soses,  now  called  Streletska  Bay, 
where  the  French  landed.  It  was 
nearly  2  m.  in  length,  and  built  of 
limestone  5  or  6  ft.  thick.  There 
were  3  towers,  of  which  the  largest 
was  placed  on  the  top  of  the  isthmus, 
and  defended  the  principal  gate,  a 
massive  edifice,  vaulted,  with  a  guard- 
house belonging  to  it.  Part  of  this 
was  still  standing  up  to  the  time  of  the 
occupation  of  the  site  by  the  French. 
An  inscription  was  found  in  the  ruins, 
which  declared  the  tower  to  have  been 
restored  about  the  year  491  a.d.  Bef(  )re 
entering  within  the  classic  enclosure 
of  Khersonesus,  the  following  brief 
history  of  its  rise,  progress,  and  fall 
should  be  perused : — 

*  They  first  settled  themselves  on  the  pro- 
montory near  Kamish  Bay,  which  is  covered 
w  ith  the  ruins  of  the  first  Khersom  sns. 

■j-  Most  of  these  intcnsting  particulars  have 
l>een  extracted  from  Mr.  H.  ]).  Soymour's  work 
'  Russia  on  the  Black  Sea,'  which  the  traveller 
wishing  to  study  the  Crimea  should  not  fail  to 
read, 


Stimulated  by  the  success  of  the 
Milesians,  who  had  established  them- 
selves on  tlie  small  peninsula  of  Kertch, 
the  Heracleans  endeavoured  on  their 
side  to  found  some  colonies  in  the 
Crimea.  They  turned  to  the  western 
part  of  the  Tauric  peninsula,  and  dis- 
embarked not  far  from  the  celebrated 
Capo  Parthenike,  and,  having  beaten 
aii<l  <lriven  back  into  the  mountains 
the  sjivage  Tauri,they  fixed  themselves 
in  the  Heraclecttic  Khersonese.  Thus 
was  founded  the  afterwards  celebrated 
rej)ublie  of  Khersonesus  or  Kherson. 
The  Khersonians  and  the  Bo:sporians 
at  Pantacapaium,  or  Kertch,  were  con- 
tinually at  war,  until  both  were  united 
under  the  sway  of  Mithridates  the 
Great,  King  of  Pontus,  who,  as  we 
have  already  seen,  was  succeeded  by  a 
son  who  became  a  vassal  of  Rome. 
Khersonesus  continued  to  be  an  im- 
portant place  during  the  greatness  and 
decline  of  the  Empire,  down  to  the 
cpwh  when  the  dispersed  Slavonic 
tribes  were  united  into  one  nation 
under  Norman  princes  in  the  9th 
centy.  From  that  timci  Khersonesus, 
situated  about  half  way  between  Kief 
and  Byzantium,  was  constantly  a  sul)- 
ject  of  dispute  between  the  Russians 
and  Greeks. 

At  length,  in  988  a.d.,  it  underwent 
a  famous  siege  by  Vladimir,  Prince  or 
Grand  Duke  of  Kief.  "The  in- 
habitants," says  Nestor,  *'  shut  them- 
selves up  in  the  walls  of  the  town, 
and  Vladimir  established  his  camp  on 
each  side,  near  the  harbour,  just  within 
shot  of  the  said  town.  The  besieged 
defended  themselves  valiantly,  yet,  as 
Vladimir  always  pressed  on  the  siege, 
they  began  to  lose  courage,  and  li(^ 
said  to  them  '  If  you  do  not  surrend^-r, 
I  swear  that  I  will  remain  here  three 
years.'  To  this  threat  the  besieged 
paid  no  attention,  and  Vladimu-  made 
his  soldiers  take  up  their  arms,  and 
ordered  the  assault,  but,  while  they 
were  engaged  in  it,  the  Khersonians, 
having  made  a  way  into  the  ditches, 
took  out  the  earth  which  the  besiegers 
had  thrown  into  them  to  fill  them  up, 
and  brought  it  into  the  town,  and  the 
more  the  Russians  threw  into  the 
ditches,  the  more  the  besieged  took 


Russia. 


Boute  17. — Khersonesus, 


285 


out    of    them.     But   while   Vladimir 
was  besieging  Kherson,  and  constrain- 
ing its  inhabitants,  a  certain  Athana- 
sius  shot  into  the  enemy's  camp  an 
arrow    bearing    this    advice,    'Tiiou 
canst  stop  or  turn  aside   the  springs 
which  are  behhid  thee,  towards  the 
east :  it  is  thence  that  the  waters  of 
the  town  are  brought  to  us.'     At  this 
news,   Vladimir    lifted    his    eyes    to 
lieaven,  and  cried  out, '  If  this  be  true, 
I  promisi'  to  receive  baptism.'     And 
forthwith  he  gave  the  order  to  stop  thi; 
pil)es  and  turn  oft"  the  water.     Soon 
the  besieged,  worn  out  and  dying  of 
thirst,  surrendered,  and  A'ladimir  with 
his  people   made   his  entry  into  the 
town.     Vladimir  then  asked  the  Kin- 
jHTors  Basil  and  Constantine  for  their 
«ister  Anna  in  marriage,  and  she  was 
granted  him  on  condition  of  his  bap- 
tism, and  was  received  into  the  jjort 
by  the   Khersonians,  who  conducteil 
her  to  the  palace. 

"  The  baptism  of  Vladimir  took  place 
in  the  church  of  the  Holy  JNIother  of 
Clod  at  Kherson,  situated  in  the  midst 
of  the  town  on  the  market-})lace.  It 
is  here  near  the  ch.,  by  the  side  of  the 
altar,  that  is  to  be  seen  to  this  day 
the  i)alace  of  Vladimir,  and  that  of  the 
l»rinccss.  Immediately  after  the  bap- 
tism the  bishop  conducted  the  princess 
for  another  ceremony,  that  of  mar- 
riage. Vladimir  ordered  to  be  built 
a  church  in  Kherson,  on  the  hill  made 
with  the  earth  which  the  inhabitants 
had  piled  up  in  the  centre  of  the 
town  during  the  siege,  which  church 
mav  still  be  seen  in  f»ur  days." 

On  his  return  to  Kief,  Vladimir 
determined  that  all  his  people  should 
become  Christians,  and  their  conver- 
sion accordingly  took  place,  as  related 
in  the  Historical  Notice.  Nestor  re- 
lates that  the  prince  brought  with  him 
to  Kief  some  priests  of  Khersonesus  the 
relics  of  St.  Clement,  and  his  disciple 
Phira,  and  vases  and  instruments  for 
burning  incense.  He  also  says  that 
the  prince  carried  away  with  him  two 
images  of  brass  and  four  horses  in 
metal,  which  in  his  time  stood  behind 
the  ch.  of  the  Holy  Mother  of  God  in 
Kief,  and  were  thought  by  the  igno- 
rant to  be  of  marble,    There  is  no 


mention,  however,  of  the  two  gates  of 
Corinthian  brass,  which  he  is  likewise 
said  to  have  carried  from  Khersonesus. 
There  is  a  door  in  the  cathedral  of 
St.  Sophia  at  Novgorod,  which  is 
called  by  the  Russians  *'  the  door  (or 
gates)  of  Korsun,"  but  the  Latin  and 
Slavonic  inscriptions  on  it  disprove 
their  being  of  Greek  origin.  {Vide 
Novgorod.) 

The   Slavonians,  to  whom   ancient 
Khersonesus  now   became   sul)iected. 
were  follf»wed  by  the  Huns  and  Kha- 
zars,  and  other  wild  races,  who  swept 
away  most  of  the  Greek  colonies  of 
the  Crimea,  but  the  final  destrnctiftn 
of  Khersonesus  as  a  city  in  the  14th 
centy.  is  attributed  to  Olgerd,  nephew 
of   Gudemin,   the    Lithuanian,    con-  , 
queror  of  Kief  and  of  all   Southern 
Russia.      After    its    pillage    by    the 
Lithuanians,   it  remained  almost  de- 
serted;  and  when  the  Turks,  in  1475, 
t<^)ok  possession   of  the  Crimea,  they 
only  found  in  it  empty   houses  and 
deserted  churches,    from  which   they 
removed  the  finest  marbles  for  their 
buildings  at  Constantinople.     At  the 
end  of  the    lOth    ccnt>'.   a   traveller 
visited  the  city,  which  was  then  called 
Sari-Kerman,  or  the  Yellow  Castle,  on 
account  of  the  yellow  colour   of  the 
ground,  and  asserts  that  it  had  then 
been  uninhabited  for  many  centuries. 
The  ruins, however,  ofwhat  he  calls  this 
''  proud,  delicate,  and  illustrious  city," 
were  then  wonderful.     The  wall  and 
its  towers,  built  of  enormous  blocks  of 
hewn  stone,  were  perfect,  and  a  beau- 
tiful aqueduct  still  brought  the  purest 
water.     The  palace  of  the  kings,  itself 
as  large  as  a  city,  with  magnificent 
entrance  gates,    continued    to    exist. 
The  churches  were  despoiled  because 
of  their   valuable   marbles,    and    the 
largest    Greek   monastery    alone    re- 
mained entire.     What  the  Turks  and 
the  Tartars  had,  however,  spared,  was 
taken  by  the  Russians  when  they  built 
Sevastopol.     Sailors  were  sent  to  col- 
lect materials,  and  no  ancient  remains 
were  respected.     The  walls  and  fine 
gateways    which    still    existed    were 
pulled  down  to  build  the  Quarantine, 
and  when  the  Emperor  Alexander  I. 
issued  orders  to  stop  this  vandalism 


128G 


Route  17. — Khersonesus. 


Sect.  II. 


the  ruin  of  everything  precious  had 
been  eonsummated. 

It  is  true  that  the  liussinn  govern- 
ment had  previously  oommissioned  an 
officer  to  excavate  whatever  .seemed  of 
interest  in  the  ruins,  and  lie  began  by 
the  churches,  three  <»f  which  he  un- 
covered, but  the  last  remains  of  works 
of  art  which  were  then  collected  by 
liieut.  Ivrnso,  with  persevering  in- 
dustry, disappear«'d  after  a  detach- 
ment of  soldiers  liad  been  lodged  in 
the  ruins  for  a  few  years  at  the  time 
of  the  plague. 

After  tliis  historical  jnclnde,  neces- 
sarily   short,    the    traveller   may   be 
ushered    in   among   the   ruins.      The 
i'entre   of  attraction  will   be  the   ch. 
wJiich  is  being  built  over  the  ruins  of 
the  ancient  cathedral  of  Khersonesus, 
erected  by  the  piety  of  Yladindr,  in 
memory  of  his  taking  the  city,  and  of 
his    own   conversion   to   Christianity, 
ft  iiiny  liave  iK^en  originally  tlu;  site 
ofthe'Chureh  of  the  lloly  Mother  i>f 
(fod,  in  which  the  j^rince  was  baptized 
and    married.     When    the    cathedral 
was  discovered,  the  remains  of  a  semi- 
(rircular  apse  were  visible,  and  columns 
of   a    fine  white   crvstalline   marl»le, 
striped  with  blue,  showed  in  the  nave 
(rf    the  edifice    the   })ositions   of    the 
transepts  and  the  dome,     (ireat  By- 
zantine crosses  ornamented  the  capitals 
of  the   columns   and    many    parts  of 
the     interif>r.      The    whole    exterior 
wall  remained  to  about  the  height  of 
13  or   4   ft.,  and   within    its  precincts 
Lieut.  Kruse  collected  all  the  columns 
and  other  remains  that  were  found, 
the  greater  part  of  which  were  drawn 
out  of  the  crypt. 

The  ruins  were  unfortunately  in- 
jured by  the  French,  who  later  placed 
a  guard  on  them;  but  what  remained  f>f 
the  ancient  edifice  has  been  covered  in 
by  the  new  wall.  The  marble  shib  on 
t  he  altar  of  the  new  ch.  belonged  to  the 
original  edifice.  To  the  1.,  on  descend- 
ing into  the  town,  and  close  tf)  this 
eh.,  was  the  market-place,  easily  rc- 
trognised  by  the  heaj)  of  earth  in  the 
shape  of  a  great  tumulus,  and  with 
which  an  interesting  story  of  ancient 
days  is  connected.  In  the  year  334  or 
330  A.D.,  Assander,  the  last  King  of 


the  Bosporus,  asked  in  marriage  for 
one  of  his  sons  the  daughter  of  I.a- 
machus,  the  Stephanophorus  or  chief 
magistrate  of  Khersonesus,   the  most 
powerful  man  in  the  town,  famous  for 
his  riches  in  gold,  silver,  slaves,  serv- 
ing-women, horses,   and    lands.      He 
also  possessed  a  house  with  four  courts, 
occui)ying  all  one  quarter  of  the  town, 
lying  near  the   exterior   part   of  flic 
Bay  of  8oses  (now   Strelet.ska   Bay), 
where  he  had  a  private  door  pierced 
in  the  walls  of  the  town,  which  is  the 
only   one   that    now   remains    entire. 
Four   magnificent   gateways  guarded 
the  a})proae]ies  to  his  house,  and  eaeli 
herd  of  oxen   and  cows,   horses   ami 
mares,    sheep    and    asses,    returning 
from  i>a.-,ture,  had  its  own   particular 
entrance  and  stables. 

(ilycia,  the  daughter  of  Lamaehns. 
married  the  eldest  son  of  Assander, 
under   the  express  condition   that]  hu 
sliould  never  return  to  Tant  icapa}uni,  to 
visit  his  father,  not  «veii  at  the  h(»nr  «if 
his  death.    After  two  years  Lamachus 
died,  and  Glycia,  the  following  year, 
wished,  according  to  the  general  cus- 
tom, on  the  anniversary  of  her  father's 
death,  to  give  a  grand  feast  to  all  the 
people    of    Khersonesus,    her    riches 
l)eing   sufficient  to  jnovide   them   all 
with  wine,  brt-ad,  oil,  mejit.  poultry, 
and  fish  ;  and  she  pr«>mised  to  reia-w 
this  festival  each  year.     Her  husband, 
deeply  vexed  at  such  prodigality.  i»re- 
teiuled  to   praise  her  filial   afieetion, 
but  secretly   determined    to    revenge 
himself  by   seizing   tliis   (►ccasion    to 
hatch  a  plot  against  the  town,   the 
citizens  of  which  had  infiicted  many 
injuries  on  his  ancestors,  the  kings  «>f 
Bos]X)rus.     He  wrote  to  his  father  to 
send  him,  from  time  to  time,  a  dozen 
young  Bosix^rians.  .strong  and  active, 
wi)o  were  secretly  intnjtluced  intf»  tla- 
vast  palace  of  Lamachus,  by  the  little 
door  near  the liay  of  Soses,  and  waihd 
in  concealment  for  the  next  anniver- 
sary, in  order  to  seize  the  town,  and 
massacre  the  j>eople,  overcome  by  wine 
and  good  cheer. 

A  lucky  accident  caused  the  trea- 
chery to  be  discovered.  On  the  eve 
of  the  feast,  one  of  the  servants  of 
Glycia,  having    disobeyed    her    mis- 


Russia. 


Route  17. — KJursonesus. 


287 


tress,  was  shut  up  in  a  distant  cham- 
ber, which  liapi)ened  to  be  just  above 
tliat  in  which  the  Bosjxjrians  were 
concealed.  The  loss  of  her  spindle, 
which  rolled  into  a  hole  near  the 
wall,  induced  the  girl  to  lift  up  a 
s(piare  of  the  floor  in  search  of  it.  81ie 
then  saw  the  Bosporians  assembled, 
and  hastened  to  inform  her  mistress. 
Glycia  then  sent  for  3  delegates  from 
the  town,  and,  having  made  them  swear 
that,  in  recompense  for  her  patriotism, 
they  would,  contrary  to  established 
custom,  bury  her  inside  the  town,  she 
communicated  to  them  the  astounding 
news,  and  gave  them  directions  ,how 
to  act.  She  made  them  celebrate  the 
festival  gaily,  as  if  nothing  was  to 
hapi)en,  and  only  bid  each  man  pre- 
j)are  some  faggots  and  torches.  Then, 
having  drugged  her  husband's  wine, 
and  escaped  from  the  house  with  her 
maids  carrying  her  trinkets  and  gold, 
she  ordered  the  faggots  to  be  piled 
round  the  house,  and  fired.  an«l  thus 
made  all  the  traitors  perish  in  the 
Hames.  The  citizens  of  Khersonesus 
wished  to  rebuild  the  house  of  Glycia 
at  the  public  expense,  but  this  she 
strongly  opposed,  and,  nn  the  contrary, 
caused  them  to  heap  up  every  kind  of 
filth  and  refus«^  on  the  place  stained 
by  treachery,  which  was  ever  after 
called  "  the  Den  of  Lamachus." 

This  monument,  more  indestructible 
than  brass  or  marble,  is  still  there,  and, 
without  knowing  the  story  of  Glycia, 
the  stranger  is  astonished  to  find  the 
rubbish  of  all  the  towns  piled  on  the 
top  of  the  plain  which  borders  Stre- 
letska  Bay,  in  one  of  the  finest  situa- 
tions of  Khersonesus.  On  passing 
through  the  little  door,  which  is  near 
the  landing-place  outside  the  walls, 
the  remains  of  a  mole  are  still  to  be 
seen  below  the  level  of  the  water. 

Two  statues  of  brass  were  raised  on 
tlie  public  place  in  honour  of  Glycia, 
in  one  of  which  she  was  represented 
modestly  and  carefully  attired,  receiv- 
ing the  3  deputies  of  the^  town,  and 
in  the  other  she  was  clothed  in  war- 
rior garments,  in  the  act  of  avenging 
the  l)etrayed  citizens.  At  the  time 
when  Oonstantine  Porphyrogenitas, 
Emperor  of  Constantinople  (a.d.  9 11- 


959),  wTote  the  account  from  which 
this  has  been  extracted  by  Mr.  H.  D. 
Seymour  ('  Russia  in  the  Black  Sea,' 
p.  155),  every  citizen  considered  it 
his  duty  to  keep  clean  and  bright  the 
inscription  which  the  gratitude  of  the 
city  had  caused  to  be  engraven  upon 
her  monument. 

The  remains  of  a  large  palace  stand 
on  one  side  of  the  small  street  leading 
to  the  market-place,  which  is  doubt- 
less one  of  those  which  Nestor  men- 
tions as  being  near  the  Ch.  of  the 
Virgin.  Among  the  ruins  the  tra- 
veller will  see  crosses  of  wood  recently 
erecte<l.  These  mark  the  sites  of  the, 
other  ancient  churches  that  have  been 
discovered. 

One  of  these,  found  by  Lieut.  Kruse, 
must  liave  been  larger  than  the  cathe- 
dral, and  built  in  the  form  of  a  Greek 
cross,  53  ft.  each  way.  The  semi- 
circular seats  for  the  clergy  were 
found  entire  in  the  apse,  and  a  coarse 
mosaic  still  existed  as  a  pavement. 

This  edifice  was  remarkable,  because 
it  was  evidently  a  beautiful  Greek 
temple  metamorj^hosed  into  a  Christian 
church  and  bases  and  capitals  of  Ionics 
columns,  and  other  parts  of  Greek  ar- 
chitecture, were  built  into  its  walls. 
Perhaps  this  had  been  the  Parthenon 
of  Khersonesus,  dedicated  to  tlie 
famous  Virgin  divinity  of  the  ancient 
Tanri. 

The  positions  of  a  great  numljer  of 
streets  can  be  traced,  tortuous  and 
narrow,  like  those  of  ]']astern  towns  to 
this  <lay.  and.  as  the  whole  of  the 
peninsula  above  described  was  built 
over,  we  may  suppose,  continues  Mr. 
11.  D.  Seymour,  that  there  existe<l 
here  5000  houses,  and  40,000  or  50.000 
inhabitants. 

The  high  jilain  was  bordered  with 
houses,  from  which  steps  were  cut 
into  the  rock  down  to  the  water's  edge, 
and  half  way  between  the  two  bays, 
where  the  rock  naturally  slopes  down, 
were  a  landing-place  and  a  market ; 
and  there  remain  a  perfect  well  and 
an  aqueduct.  ,  There  were  only  2 
springs  of  water  in  the  Khersonese, 
both  near  Balaclava.  Some  of  the 
l)ipes  through  which  the  water  from 
one  of  these  springs  was    conducted 


288 


Bouie  17. — Khersonems. 


Sect.  II. 


into  the  city  have  been  excavated,  and 
it  was  this  conduit  that  Vladimir  cut 
when  he  took  the  town  of  Khersone- 
sus.  The  water  of  the  principal 
spring  was  carried  in  modern  times  to 
Sevastopol,  which  for  a  long  time  was 
only  supplied  by  some  wells  and  small 
sources  at  the  extremity  of  the  S.  bay. 

Near  the  modern  cliurch  of  Klier- 
sonesus  are  a  small  monastery,  dedi- 
cated to  St.  Vladimir,  and  a  church  of 
recent  date.  The  suijerior  lives  in  the 
large  house  with  a  green  roof. 

Within  a  short  distance  of  the 
monastery  is  the  French  Cemetery. 
It  will  be  remembered  that  the  French 
collected  the  remains  of  all  their  slain 
and  deposited  them  here.  Not  far 
from  the  cemetery,  rising  cheerfully 
from  the  plain,  is  Bracker's  House,  the 
head-quarters  of  the  British  army,  and 
in  which  Lord  Raglan  died.  Close  to 
this  house  are  the  remains  of  a  square 
Greek  tower. 

The  traveller  will  now  reach  the 
sea-coast  and  Cape  Parthenike'  (Vio- 
lentc',  or  St.  George),  so  called  after  the 
monastery  of  the  same  name  which 
is  upon  it.  and  which  was  the  head- 
(^uarters  of  the  French  army  during 
the  siege  of  Sevastopol.  The  spot  is 
interesting  for  several  other  reasons, 
and  we  will  allow  IMr.  II.  D.  Seymour 
to  d<  scribe  it  in  his  own  words : — 

"  The  cape  derived  its  ancient  name 
from  the  cruel  Virgin  divinity  of  the 
Tauri,  so  famous  in  early  history,  to 
whom  all  strangers  were  sacrificed 
who  suffered  shipwreck  on  this  inhos- 
pitable coast.  When  the  Greeks 
arrived  from  Ileraclea,  they  brought 
in  the  worship  of  Hercules  and  Diana, 
and,  as  they  always  respected  the  re- 
ligion of  the  countries  they  visittd, 
and  found  a  great  resemblance  iK'tween 
tlieir  own  Diana  and  the  Virgin  of  the 
Tauri,  they  probably  merged  the  two 
into  one  under  the  name  of  the  Tauric 
Diana,  discontinuing  the  ancient  bar- 
barous custom  of  ofiering  human  vic- 
tims. At  a  later  period  Iphigenia 
was  confounded  with  the  two  other 
divinities,  as  Herodotus  expressly  says 
that  in  his  time  she  was  worshipped 
as  a  goddess.  The  Tauric  goddess 
had  her  Parthenon  in  ICheiBon,  and 


her  chapel  on  Cape  Parthenike.  The 
road  is  still  visible  by  which  the 
worshippers  passed  from  Kherson  to 
the  promontory,  crossing  a  ridge  of 
rocks,  on  which  the  traces  of  the 
ancient  chariot-wheels  are  distinctly 
visible. 

'*  The  cj\pe  is  remarkable  as  being 
the  exact  limit  between  the  most  ancient 
and  the  most  modern  geological  forma- 
tions in  the  Crimea.  Here,  on  the  top 
of  the  precipice,  an  immense  rock  of 
Jurassic  limest<ine  juts  out  from  tlic 
coast,  on  a  level  with  the  steppe, 
and  bordered  by  sheer  precipices  on 
every  side,  except  where  it  is  con- 
nected with  the  mainland.  In  the 
centre  are  the  foundations  of  an  iso- 
lated edifice,  almost  sciua  re,  constructed 
of  hewn  stones,  like  the  donjons  of  the 
houses  of  the  Khersonese.  It  was 
placed  at  the  angle  of  tlu^  two  walls, 
which,  advancing  one  to  the  W.  and 
the  other  to  the  S.,  on  the  edge  of  the 
precipice,  formed  of  the  rest  of  the 
platform  a  kind  of  court,  of  Avhich 
the  entrance-gate  looked  towards  tlu5 
Khersonese  and  the  road.  This  could 
oidy  have  been  a  temple,  for  here  arc 
neither  the  wells  nor  buildings  which 
always  characterise  a  dwelling-hou-sc 
This  was  also  the  fittest  situation  for 
the  worship  of  the  Tauric  Virgin,  for 
at  this  point  only  could  the  sea  bo 
reached  on  this  side  of  the  Khersonese, 
and  close  to  it  is  a  gorge  in  the  form 
of  an  amphitheatre,  where  doubtless, 
in  the  earliest  time,  crowds  assembled 
to  witness  the  precipitation  of  the 
unhappy  victims  into  the  sea. 

'*  Near  it,  ensconced  in  a  ledge  of 
the  precipice,  is  the  famous  monastery 
of  St.  George.  From  the  plateau 
above,  whicli  has  all  the  aridity  and 
monotony  of  the  stcpi)es,  its  ancient 
walls  are  not  visible,  and  it  is  not  till 
the  traveller  approaches  the  edge  of 
the  cliflfs,  and  looks  over,  tliat  he  sees, 
instead  of  a  frightful  wave-beaten  pre- 
cipice, a  most  charming  little  village, 
nestled  in  the  rocks  at  about  50  ft. 
below  him.  There  are  a  church,  and 
houses,  and  terraces,  cut  one  below 
the  other,  and  ancient  poplars  and 
gardens  irrigated  by  a  fine  rivulet  of 
water.    The  spot  looks  like  a  little 


Russia. 


Boute  17. — Balaclava. 


289 


oasis  suspended,  as  if  by  enchantment, 
at  several  hundred  feet  above  the  sea, 
in  tiie  midst  of  an  amphitheatre  of 
black  basaltic  rocks,  which  rise  majes- 
tically around,  and  form  a  striking 
contrast  to  the  rich  verdure  in  which 
the  monastery  is  hidden.  A  door  and 
staircase  cut  in  the  rock  form  the 
only  entrance  to  this  great  hermitage, 
which  was  no  doubt  first  created  by 
the  ancient  Troglodytes,  or  dwellers 
underground,  whose  remains  are  so 
numerous  in  the  Crimea,  as  all  the 
rocks  nc?ar  the  monastery,  which  are 
composed  of  chalk,  are  pierced  by 
ancient  grottoes,  which  are  now  only 
used  as  cellars  and  poultry  -  yards, 
although  they  were  inhabited  by  the 
monks  so  lately  as  the  time  of  Pallas 
in  1794.  The  monastery  consists  of 
many  large  buildings,  several  of  which 
are  devoted  to  the  reception  of  stran- 
gers. The  church  has  unfortunately 
been  rebuilt,  and  the  ancient  cha])el 
that  stood  here  has  been  totally  de- 
stroyed. A  stone  basin  is  shaded  by 
poplars,  while  below  it  are  terraced 
gardens  and  small  vineyards. 

'•  This  little  nook  generally  enjoys  a 
most  unbroken  quiet,  but  on  the  23rd 
A\n-[[,  St.  George's  Day,  when  crowds 
arrive,  and  the  plateau  above  is 
covered  with  huts  and  tents,  the 
Greeks  from  all  parts  of  the  Crimea 
fiock  to  the  place,  and  the  women  espe- 
cially frequent  the  fete,  and  embellish 
the  scene  by  their  picturesque  dresses 
and  traditional  beauty.  As  in  most 
religious  festivals,  the  world  always 
claims  its  part,  and  a  kind  of  fair  is 
held  here  in  the  early  part  of  the  day, 
at  which  much  business  is  done.  But 
all  at  once  the  scene  changes,  the  hour 
of  Divine  service  has  arrived,  the  crowd 
Hocks  to  the  church,  and,  as  soon  as 
the  benediction  has  been  given,  there 
is  a  rush  to  the  basin  containing  the 
water,  which  is  supposed  at  this 
season  to  be  the  remedy  against  all 
kinds  of  diseases." 

From  St.  George's  Monastery  the 
road  to  Balaclava  turns  to  the  N.E., 
over  a  dreary  and  barren  plain,  past 
the  village  of  Karany,  with  a  ridge 
of  mountains  on  the  rt.,  and  then 
through  the   vale    of   Balaclava,  so 


famous,  some  little  distance  beyond, 
for  the  gallant  charge  of  the  Six  Hun- 
dred. 

Balaclava,  12  v.  S.E.  of  Sevasto- 
pol, and  about  7  v.  from  the  Monas- 
tery of  St.  George.     Pop.  .500. 

Ilietonj,  (tr. — Balaclava  is  the  only 
bay  on  the  southern  coast  resembling 
the  bays  about  Sevastopol,  where  tht; 
land  rises  suddenly  on  each  side,  and 
the  water  is  so  deep  that  the  largest 
ships  may  anchor  close  to  the  shore. 
On  approaching  it  from  the  E.,  the 
geological  formation  is  seen  at  once 
ito  change  in  its  vicinity  ;  the  summits 
of  the  rocks  are  still,  like  the  rest 
of  the  Tauric  chain,  calcareous;  but 
they  have  been  changed  by  violent 
action  into  red,  blue,  and  grey  mar- 
bles, below  which  reappears  the  coarse 
red  pudding-stone  of  the  Tchatyr- 
Dagh  mountain,  while  a  great  rent, 
which  opens  on  the  sea,  and  was  called 
the  Valley  of  the  Devil  (Shaitan 
Dereli),  shows  a  black  or  yellowish 
schist. 

Mr.  H.  D.  Seymour,  whom  we  are 
still  quoting,  makes  the  following 
extract  from  the  work  of  M.  Dubois :  * 
— "  Each  step,  in  approaching  Bala- 
clava, is  an  enigma  to  me,  such  'an 
inconceivable  disorder  reigns  among 
these  masses  of  pudding-stone,  with 
enormous  pebbles  which  alternate 
with  layers  of  marble  and  sand- 
stone; and  the  marble  finishes  this 
strange  series,  which  seems  like  a 
world  turned  topsyturvy.  When  ar- 
rived at  the  top  of  the  sterile  mountain 
that  overhangs  Balaclava,  I  cry  out 
with  astonishment.  What  are  these 
white  antique  towers  perched  on  the 
top  of  rocks  descending  so  rapidly  to 
the  water  ?  What  is  this  brilliant  lake 
shut  in  by  the  steep  mountains  ?  and 
that  red  promontory  reflected  in  the 
waves  of  the  sea?  Can  this  be  Bala- 
clava? Nothing  but  ruins  are  visi- 
ble,— where  then  is  the  town  ?  Con- 
templating w^ith  admiration  this  roman- 
tic scene,  I  descended  the  mountain, 
looking  continually  for  the  town,  of 
which  I  saw  no  vestige.    My  guide  at 

*  '  Voyage  autour  du  Caucase,'  par  l-\  Dubois 
de  Montpereux,  6  vols.,  Paris,  1839, 


290 


Bmte  17. — Balaclava, 


Sect.  II. 


last  directeil  me  suddenly  to  the  left, 
:vnd  like  mapjic.  I  found  myself  in 
lialaclava,  which,  placed  on  the  narrow 
Htrip  of  land  hetwcen  the  mountains 
with  the  ruins  and  the  tranquil  bay, 
is  not  seen  until  it  is  entered," 

The  first  notice  of  Balaclava  is  in 
tlu'  dim  t^^-ili.i!:ht  of  archaic  times.     It 
is  supposed  on  good  authority  (that  of 
C.   Hitter)  to  be  the  port  of  the  Lce- 
strigones,  mentioned  in  the  '  Odyssey,' 
to  which  the  reader  nmst  be  referred 
for  Homer's  description  of  the  landing 
of  Ulysses,    whose  heralds  were   re- 
ceived  by  the   younger  daughter  of 
Antiphates,  the  king  of  the   Locstri- 
gones,  and  shown  the  lofty  gates  of  a 
palace   which   touched    the    licavens. 
Tlie  savage  Antiphates,  faithful  to  the 
(character  whicli  the  ancients  always 
attributed  to  the  Tauri,  seized  one  of 
the  ambassadors  to  devour  him,  while 
t1\e  otlier  two  tied  away.      Meaiuvhile 
the    alarm  had    been   given   in    the 
town  ;  the  people  had  seen  the  fleet  of 
llysses  enter,  and  they  ruslied  to  it 
from  all  parts.      Strabo  calls  the  port 
1  'alakion,  from  the  name  of  a  strong 
Greek  castle  which  st(X)d  there.     The 
most    probable    presmuption    is    that 
Balaclava  was  founded  by  the  Tauric 
Scythians  about  the  2nd  ccnty.  before 
<  "hrist,  and  that  it  was  the  port  in 
whicli  the  Scythian  sea-robbers  <'on- 
gregated.     T-iater   it  was  occupied  by 
the   Greek    colonists,    who    called    it 
Gymbolon,   a  name  which   was    cor- 
rupted to   Cembalo  by   the   Geno<'se, 
who  took  it  in  1305,  and  then  built 
the    fortress   which    now    exists.     In 
143o  the  Greeks  who  had  remained  at 
i'embalo,  having  conspired,  drove  out 
the  Genoese   and  replaced  the  town 
and  castle  in  the  hands  of  a   noble 
Greek    called    Alexis,    the    lord     of 
Theodori  (Inkerman).     He  was  driven 
out  in  the  following  year  by  Charles 
Somellin,  who  was  sent  from  (ienoa 
with  a  fleet  of  20  vessels,  further  aug- 
mented in  passing  through  the  Greek 
islands,  so  that  he  arrived  with  6000 
]nen. 

In  1475  Balaclava  was  taken  by  the 
Turks,  who  gave  it  up  uninjured  to  the 
Tartars,  by  whom  it  was  held  for 
several  centuries,  till  they  were  driven 


out  by  its  present  inhabitants,  the  Ar- 
naout  Greeks,  in  1780.  These  were 
embodied  into  a  regiment  in  1795  f<ir 
the  ostensible  purpose  of  guarding  the 
coast,  but  in  reality  for  that  of  ex- 
pelling the  Tartars,  whom  Catherine 
found  somewhat  powerfid  and  refrac- 
tory when  she  took  the  Crimea.  Tlu; 
"  Greek  battalion  "  was  only  disbande<l 
in  1859. 

The  village  of  Balaclava,  for  it  can 
scarcely  be  called  a  town,  presents  a 
very  different  appeamnce  from  what 
it  did  before  the  war.  There  are  only 
a  few  small  houses  remaining  ;  but  the 
tranquil  beauty  of  the  bay  (which 
proved  so  treacherous  to  our  transpoiis 
on  the  14th  November,  1854),  and  the 
ruins  of  the  fortifications,  on  which  the 
arms  of  (ilenoa  were  still  visible  at  th(^ 
beginnhig  of  the  present  centy.,  will 
Well  repay  the  traveller  for  the  fatigue 
he  has  endured  during  this  long  drive. 
He  will  be  forcibly  reminded  of  some, 
of  the  events  of  the  Crimean  war  by 
the  inscrii)tionson  the  rocks — "  Cossack 
Bay,"  ••  Castle  Bay,'  "  Castle  Point," 
&c.,  painted  in  bold  characters  during 
the  English  occupation. 


;>. — Sevastopol  to  Jialhrhisarai,  ^hiksIikj 
throutjh  the  Vatley  of  Inkerman. 

The  traveller  may  either  perform 
this  journey  on  horseback,  or  in  a  post- 
cart,  providing  himself  first  with  a 
podorojna,  or  order  for  post-horses. 
The  first  plan  necessitates  the  leaving 
of  his  luggage  at  ^Sevastopol,  unless 
arrangements  can  be  made  for  its  being 
safely  forwarded.  These  are  details 
which  must  be  left  to  circumstances, 
and  to  the  discretion  of  the  traveller. 
It  is,  however,  necessary  to  premise 
that  the  road  which  he  is  about  to 
take  is  the  worst  in  the  whole  penin- 
sula. 

The  road  from  Sevastopol  to  Inker- 
man  is  only  about  4  m.  in  length,  but 
very  fatiguing.  In  order  to  avoid  the 
numberless  ravines  which  cut  up  the 
Khersonese,  a  circuitous  route  must  be 
tak(;u,  and  it  is  hardly  ix)ssible  to  cross 
in  a  stniight  line.  Scarcely  has  the 
descent  l)een  made  to  the  bottom  of  one 


Russia. 


Bouie  17. — Lilcerman. 


291 


ravine,  by  a  very  steep  declivity,  than 
an  equally  precipitous  ascent  must  be 
made  at  the  other  side ;  and  the  route 
has  nothing  picturesque,  except  some 
poor   ruins   scattered   here  ami  there 


among  the  rocks. 


The  Valley  of  Inkeumax,  tlrrough 
which  flows  the  river  Tclurnava, 
begins  about  4  m.  from  Sevastopol, 
and  is  formed  by  2  limestone  chains, 
full  of  fossils,  of  which  one  runs  along 
the  northern,  and  the  other  along  the 
S.  shore  of  the  bay  of  Sevastopol. 
Approaching  each  other  at  al)out  a 
mile  above  the  mouth  of  the  Tcher- 
naya,  they  form  a  valley,  rich  in  pas- 
tures. On  the  rt.  bank  of  the  river 
the  chain  terminates  in  two  jK-rpendi- 
cular  cliffs,  of  which  the  right  is 
pierced  l)y  a  great  immber  of  caverns 
or  crypts  of  every  variety  and  size, 
arranged  in  irregular  tiers  of  nearly 
half  a  mile  in  length.  They  are  sup- 
l)0»ed  to  be  the  work  of  the  ancient 
Tauri.  On  the  summit  of  the  other 
cliff'  arc  the  ruins  of  the  castle  of 
Eupatorion  (later  called  Theodori), 
built  by  Diophantes,  the  general  of 
Mithridates,  who  was  sent  to  helj) 
the  Khcrsonians  agiiinst  the  Tauro- 
Scythians  a  little  before  the  birth  of 
Christ.  From  this  castle  Dio]»liantes 
made  a  communication  with  the  other 
side,  by  filling  up  the  valley  with 
earth,  and  leaving  a  passage  for  the 
river  by  a  bridge  with  3  arches,  of 
which  one  remained  in  1834,  and  the 
bank  itself  is  perfectly  preserved. 
The  name  of  Inkerman  is  derived 
from  them,  its  meaning  in  the  Tartar 
language  l)eing  "  a  town  of  caverns." 

In  157s  Greek  inscriptions  and 
heraldic  bearings  of  the  Greek  princes 
of  Theodori  were  still  to  be  seen  over 
the  gates. 

On  the  southern  side  of  the  same 
rock  is  an  ancient  cavern-church, 
with  its  columns,  choir,  and  sarcophagi 
complete.  The  more  complicated 
crypts  on  the  S.  sidi-  of  the  rock  have 
many  rooms,  and  all,  except  the  prin- 
cipal chamber,  have  ledges  of  stone 
which  were  once  used  as  l)eds.  The 
doors  were  of  wood;  the  ceilings  rise 
to  a  point ;  and  in  the  centre  of  the 

Hussia. — ISCS. 


floor  there  was  a  hole  1^  ft.  deep, 
and  2  ft.  across,  which  was  the 
fireplace  and  the  oven.  In  some 
places,  from  natural  causes,  the  rock 
has  given  way,  and  carried  down 
whole  stages  of  crypts,  with  the  pas- 
sages and  staircases  of  comnmnication 
between  the  various  stories,  and  Lieut. 
Kruse,  whose  labours  in  connexion 
with  Khcrsonesus  have  been  men- 
tioned, blew  up  vast  numbers  of  the 
crypts  for  the  purpose  of  supplying 
stone,  under  a  contract  for  the  public 
buildings  of  Sevastopol.  On  the 
opposite  sitlc  of  the  valley,  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  river,  the  hill-side  is  like- 
wise full  of  crypts. 

In  the  vicinity  of  the  mountains, 
partly  covered  with  brushwood,  and 
partly  laid  bare,  arc  quarries  of  ser- 
pentine and  marble,  which  were 
worked  during  the  construction  of 
ancient  Khcrsonesus.  The  Ilomans 
sent  their  convicts  to  work  in  these 
(juarries.  Amongst  the  num1)er  was 
I'ope  Clement  I.,  who  was  after- 
wards put  to  death,  a.d.  102,  for 
converting  his  fellow  prisoners  to 
Christianity.  A  ch.,  which  at  a  later 
l)eriod  was  built  in  the  rock,  and  de- 
dicated to  St.  Clement,  still  exists. 
Here  also  are  some  wells  dug  by  the 
Greek  princes.  One  of  them,  situated 
a])ont  50  fathoms  above  the  valley,  in 
the  centre  of  the  old  fortress,  is  very 
remarkable.  The  aqueduct,  12  m.  in 
length,  which  runs  along  the  valley, 
find  pierces  the  rock  for  a  distance  of 
about  1.50  fms.,  was  built  in  1832-.33, 
for  the  pnq)0se  of  supplying  the  docks 
of  Sevastopol  with  fresh  water.  In  the 
direction  of  Tchorguna  and  Mangup 
is  a  layer  of  fuller's  earth,  2  ft.  in 
thickness  and  grey  in  colour,  accom- 
l)anied  below  by  talc.  It  is  used  as 
soap,  and  is  even  exported  to  Constan- 
tinople. The  famous  heights  of  In- 
kerman are  on  the  1.  bank  of  the 
Tchernaya,  near  its  mouth.  For  de- 
scription of  the  battle  vide  Historical 
Xotij'o. 

Passing  through  the  valley  of  In- 
kerman, the  road — a  very  bad  one — 
first  ascends  and  then  dt^scends  again 
into  the  valley  of  the  Belbek,  which, 
after  a  N.W.  course  of  50  v.,  falls  into 


292 


Eoute  17. — BalcJichtsaraL 


Sect.  II. 


the  Black  Sea  N.  of  the  bay  of  Sevas- 
topol, llerc  tlie  first  stat.,  24  v.  from 
Sevastopol,  is  reached.  It  is  the 
Tartar  villa,ii:e  of  Duvankoi  (Pop. 
1100),  prettily  sitiiati^d  on  the  rt. 
Lank  of  tlie  Belbek.  Thence  the  road 
crosses  the  plain  and  the  river  Katcha 
to  Bakhchisarai,  a  distance  of  lii 
versts. 

Bakhciiisakat,  on  river  Chirink- 
su,  30  V.  from  Simpheropol.  I'oj). 
13,000. 

Accommodation . — Tra vellors  prov id- 
Q(\.  with,  ix  podorojna  are  entith'd  to  a 
lodcrinir  in  the  rulace  of  the  KIt(ni>i, 
where,  iiowever,  he  will  only  hnd  a 
divan  to  lie  ujwn.  Everytliinij:  in  tlie 
way  of  food  he  innst  provide  for  him- 
self, either  by  brin,i::ing  it  with  iiim, 
or  by  obtaining  it  at  a  Tartar  eating- 
liouse.  The  old  soldier  who  acts  as 
porter  will  snpply  water  and  towels. 

Guides,  ttc. — The  Ciceroncs  are  all 
Russians,  but  the  P]nglishman  will 
generally  be  fortunate  enough  to  meet 
with  some  Russian  inhabittmt  of  the 
place  able  to  speak  French  or  (Jerman. 
It  will  be  best,  however,  to  ol)tain  at 
Sevastopol  or  elsewhere  a  letter  of  in- 
troduction to  tlie  commandant,  who 
resides  in  the  palace,  and  also,  like 
all  Russians,  says  an  experienced 
traveller,  will  be  delighted  to  attbrd 
any  assistance  to  the  stranger. 

Horses. — There  is  no  lack  of  these 
for  hire.  Avoid  a  Tartar  saddle,  for 
English  ones  are  to  be  obtained. 

History,  <yv. — The  date  of  the  foun- 
dation of  Baklichisarai  is  unknown,  but 
it  became  the  residence  of  the  khans 
of  the  Crimea  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
loth  centy.  Tlie  town  is  situated  in  a 
deep  gorge  of  the  chalk  formation, 
3  m.  in  length.  It  is  full  of  interest- 
ingmonumentsof  the  Tartars,  foremost 
amongst  which  is  the  Khan-Sarai,  or 
Palace  of  the  Khans,  which  was  re- 
stored by  Potemkin,  and  furnished  in 
the  original  style  for  the  recepti<  m  of 
the  Empress  Catherine. 

The  greater  part  of  the  town  Wiis 
de.^troyed  by  the  Russian  troops  in 
1736,  and  only  a  portion  of  it  has  ])een 
rebuilt.  Many  of  its  ornaments  suf- 
fered during  the  Crimean  war  by  iU 


appropriation  to  the  purposes  of  an 
hospital.  Right  and  left  on  ent^'r- 
iug  are  ranges'  of  apartments,  which 
all  open  on  a  long  gallery,  whence 
there  is  a  good  view  of  tlie  interior 
court,  and  of  the  groups  of  fantastic 
buildings  raised  irregularly  above 
it.  At  the  entrance  of  the  second 
court  on  the  left  is  the  "  Iron  Gate," 
leading  to  the  principal  aitartments, 
on  which  is  an  iiiscri]ition  declaring 
it  to  have  been  built  by  iNIenghli 
Ghirey  Khan,  who  conquered  the 
Crimea  in  1480.  A  staircase  leads 
into  the  richly  ornamented  hall,  in 
which  there  are  2  fountains,  one  of 
which  is  called  Selsibil,  after  the 
name  of  a  river  in  Mahomet's  para- 
dis{>,  and  which  has  been  rendered 
famous  by  the  verses  of  the  Russian 
l>oet  Pushkin.  The  inscription  on 
the  founfciin  stntes  that  it  was  erected 
in  IT")!),  by  Khan  Krim  Ghirei,  in 
li(»nour  of  Diliarah  Bikeh,  a  Geor- 
gian, burie<l  near  the  jjalace.  Beyond 
this  hnll  is  that  of  the  Divan,  the  great 
council-room,  placed  in  the  midst  of  a 
delicious  terraced  garden.  The  Hall 
of  Audience,  and  a  long  suite  of  rooms 
leading  down  to  the  bank  of  the  river, 
lead  out  of  the  hall  with  the  foun- 
tains. Behind  the  Pavilion  of  the 
Waters,  carefully  hi(Men  by  high 
trees,  is  a  little  secluded  court,  where 
the  sacred  precincts  of  the  harem  ter- 
minated with  a  high  tower,  called  the 
Sokolinaya,  or  *'  Hawk  Tower,"  whence 
the  ladies  used  to  witness  tlu;  recep- 
tion of  aml)assadors,  and  the  fetes  and 
martial  games  that  were  celebrated 
in  the  great  court,  and  whence  also 
there  is  a  most  charming  view  of  the 
town  and  all  the  surrounding  countrv. 
The  mosque,  with  2  tall  minarets  of 
fine  workmanship,  is  on  the  1.  of  the 
palace.  Adjoining  it  is  the  cemetery, 
with  2  large  domes,  contjiining  the 
monuments  of  nearly  all  the  khans 
since  l(j54. 

The  oldest  tombs  are,  however,  to 
be  found  in  the  suburb  of  Salacliik, 
where  there  is  also  a  large  moscpie, 
built  ])y  Menghi  Ghirey,  and  the 
tomb  of  Aldinakhman,  Ulenui  of  the 
Crimea,  erected  by  the  conqueror  of 
the  peninsula.     One  graceful  dome, 


Eussia.  Itoute  17. — Baklichisarai  —  Tepe  Kermen, 


293 


placed  just  without  the  precincts  of 
the  palace  garden,  immediately  at- 
tracts attention.  It  contains  the  tomb 
of  a  beautiful  Georgian,  called  Diliarah 
Bike'h,  the  wife  of  Krim  Ghirey.  She 
8teadily  refused  to  change  her  religion, 
and  reposes  here  on  suffrance,  at  the 
edge  of  the  Mussulman  cemetery. 
Many  a  pilgrimage  is  made  to  this 
tomb,  as  to  that  of  Marie  Potocka, 
another  beautiful  Christian,  who  gained 
the  heart  of  one  of  the  last  khans  of 
the  Crimea,  who  carried  her  off,  but 
who  never  succeeded  in  reconciling 
her  to  being  the  wife  of  an  infidel. 

The  principal  mosque  at  Bakhchi- 
sarai, the  Djuma-Djami,  was  erected 
by  Seliamit  Ghirey  Khan  (1737-43). 

The  principal  excursion  from  Bakh- 
chisarai is  to  Tepe  Kermen  (6  v.), 
a  lofty  hill,  the  sides  of  which,  like 
the  gorges  of  Inkerman,  are  honey- 
combed out  into  caves,  once  the  dwell- 
ings of  man.  It  is  difficult  to  deter- 
mhie  the  origin  of  these  excavations  ; 
they  were  perhaps  the  abodes  of  the 
Troglodites  in  the  prehistoric  ages  ; 
but  one  thing  is  certain,  that  they  were 
at  one  time  the  refuge  of  Christians, 
probaljly  the  Arians  fleeing  from  the 
persecution  under  Justinian.  The  re- 
mains of  an  excavated  chapel  are  still 
to  be  seen,  with  an  altar  and  a  cross 
carved  in  high  relief,  a  cross  which 
anticpiaries  have  hitherto  been  unable 
to  assign  to  any  known  Christian  sect, 
since  it  differs  from  all  (»rdinary  forms. 
There  are  also  one  or  two  niches  for 
coffins.  Lower  down  the  hills  are  two 
large  holes  filled  with  human  bones, 
but  among  which  no  skulls  have  been 
discovered.  The  summit  of  this  hill 
is  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  a  Genoese 
fortification,  and  a  fine  view  of  the 
country  may  be  obtained  thence. 

Returning  by  another  path,  the 
large  cemetery  of  the  Karaim  Jews  is 
passed,  shaded  by  lofty  trees,  and  sur- 
rounded b}'  a  wall.  It  is  the  favourite 
burial-place  of  this  sect,  and  is  beauti- 
fully kept.  Close  by  is  their  city  of 
Tchufut  Kale',  perched  on  the  summit 
of  lofty  and  craggy  clifi's  only  acces- 
sible from  one  side,  and  of  which  the 
history  is  as  follows:— The  Karaim 
Jews  call  it  Kyrkor,or  "  40  men,"  and 


aflfirm  that  it  was  built  by  40  bro- 
thers. It  was  known  in  the  middle 
ages  (and  to  Eastern  writers  in  the 
14th  centy.)  as  the  town  of  "  Forty 
Places"  or  "Forty  Castles."  The 
monuments  in  the  cemetery  of  Tchufut 
Kale,  called  the  Valley  of  Jehosha- 
phat,  prove  that  the  town  existed  in 
the  Gth  centy.  of  the  Christian  era,  and 
that  in  the  8th  centy.  it  was  the  resi- 
dence of  Isaac  Sangari,  who  converted 
the  Kahzars  to  Judaism.  The  Karaim 
Jews  are  of  opinion  that  Tchufut  Kale 
was  founded  about  400  vears  before 
Christ ;  also  that  it  was  the  refuge  of 
the  last  of  the  Khazars  in  the  11th 
centy.  The  Khans  of  Kipchak  and 
of  the  Golden  Horde  resided  for  some 
time  here,  as  proved  by  the  ruins  of 
mosques,  and  by  the  Mausoleum  of 
Nenke'-Djan-Klianym,  the  daughter 
of  Tokhtamysh,  successor  of  Tamer- 
lane, who  threw  herself  down  a  preci- 
pice and  was  killed  in  1437,  because 
her  father  would  not  consent  to  her 
marriage  with  a  handsome  Genoese 
nobleman,  or,  according  to  some,  with 
a  Tartar  Mirza. 

It  is  now  nearly  deserted,  but  its 
synagogue  is  still  used.  This  and 
the  Council  Chamber,  and  the  tom>^ 
of  a  Tartar  princess,  are  the  lions 
which  are  shown  to  strangers;  but 
there  is  nothing  remarkable  in  them, 
and  the  time  will  be  more  profitably 
spent  ill  rambling  about  the  ruined 
houses  and  strong  walls  of  this 
strangely  situated  city,  and  in  inspect- 
ing the  subterranean  town  which  has 
been  cut  under  the  fortress.  The  de- 
scent on  the  other  side  is  by  a  winding 
series  of  broad  stairs  amid  the  dwell- 
ings which  here,  as  everywhere  in  the 
Crimea,  have  been  hollowed  out  in  the 
rocks. 

The  Monastery  of  the  Assumption  is 
passed  on  the  way  back.  It  is  built 
on  the  site  of  the  ancient  Mariampol, 
the  inhabitants  of  which  town  emi- 
grated to  Mariiipol,  on  the  Sea  of 
Azof.  The  monastery,  or  rather  a 
portion  of  it,  is  placed  high  up  amid 
the  clifts,  and  some  of  the  chapels  are 
excavated  in  the  rock.  Here  the  tra- 
veller will  be  able  to  judge  how  the 
old  crypt  towns  looked  before  they 

p  2 


294 


Itoiife  17. — Mangiip, 


Sect.  II. 


I 


Russia. 


Boutc  17. — Baidar, 


295 


were  (Icscrtod,  Many  white  crosses 
mark  the  tombs  of  rich  Greeks,  whose 
b(Klies  liave  been  brought  from  various 
parts  to  bo  buried  in  this  sacred 
ground. 

The  hire  of  a  horse  for  this  excur- 
sion ought  not  to  be  more  than  a  ruble 
and  a  half,  and  the  gratuity  to  the 
guide  30  kopeks. 

From  Bakhtchisarai  the  traveller 
should  make  an  excursion  to  the  rock 
of  Mangup,  which  will  be  seen  rising 
to  a  height  of  upwards  of  a  thousand 
feet  E.  of  the  town.  Every  accessible 
place  in  the  vicinity  is  fortitied  with 
walls  and  towers.  One  valley,  called 
the  Tabana  De'reli,  is  fortitied  by  a 
wall  and  4  towers,  and  contains  several 
stages  of  crypts  and  a  tine  spring  of 
water.  On  the  top  of  the  plateau  are 
the  remains  of  a  Byzantine  Greek  ch., 
to  the  left  of  which  is  a  mosque  and  a 
Turkish  cemetery.  In  the  Acropolis 
are  the  remains  of  a  line  palace.  It 
was  in  this  house  that  the  Khans 
several  times  shut  up  the  INIoscovite 
ambassadors,  and  made  them  suffer  a 
severe  captivity.  It  is  a  memento  of 
the  Gothic  liukes  of  ^Mangup,  and 
perhaps,  as  a  solitary  memorial  of  the 
architecture  of  the  Goths  in  the 
Crimea,  possesses  considerable  inte- 
rest. 

Ilising  majestically  from  the  glen  at 
its  base,  the  town  of  Mangvi'  belonged 
at  different  periods  to  the  Greeks,  the 
Genoese,  and  the  Karaim  Jews,  a 
tribe  peculiar  to  the  Crimea,  who  fol- 
low the  law  of  Moses,  reject  the  tradi- 
tions of  the  elders,  adopt  many  of  the 
habits  of  the  Mahommcdan,  and  are  a 
remarkably  fine  race  of  men.  A  guide 
to  the  ruins  and  excavations  at  the 
summit  of  this  mountain  will  be  neces- 
sary, for  the  ascent  is  steep  and  difll- 
oull ;  halfway  up  the  road  runs 
through  a  cemetery  of  these  Karaim 
Jews,  containing  many  thousand 
tombstones,  of  coffin-shape,  covered 
with  Hebrew  inscriptions.  Beyond 
this  is  the  outer  wall  of  the  fortress, 
flanked  by  square  castellated  towers 
at  short  distances  from  each  other. 
Within  this,  and  further  up  the  hill, 
is  a  projection  of  the  table-land,  pre- 


cipitous on  all  sides  but  one — this  was 
the  citadel.  The  excavations  lure  are 
very  singular,  and  the  view  from  the 
windows  of  the  chambers  in  the  rocks 
down  the  ravines  is  of  the  wildest  cha- 
racter. From  the  opjxtsite  side  of  the 
mountain,  Sevastopol,  with  its  har- 
bour, shipping,  &c.,  may  be  distinctly 
seen,  and  tov.ards  Bakhtchisarai  the 
eye  ranges  over  a  broken  chain  of 
mountains,  each  in  itself  a  natural  and 
impregnable  fortress.  Of  the  vast 
population  that  once  inhabited  INIan- 
gup,  not  one  human  being  now  re- 
mains :  ivy  has  embraced  its  walls 
and  towers,  rank  herljs  and  old  trees 
have  choked  the  vine,  and  the  lizard 
and  the  eft  now  disport  themselves 
over  the  ruins  of  the  synagogues. 

The  name,  sometimes  pronounced 
Mangut,  would  seem  to  suggest  that 
the  Goths,  when  fleeing  ])efore  the 
victorious  Huns,  established  them- 
selves there,  and  built  those  massive 
walls  of  which  such  stupendous  frag- 
ments still  remain.  A  chapel  exca- 
vated in  the  rock,  with  a  cross  similar 
to  that  at  Tepe  Kermen,  is  still  visilde, 
though  the  painted  saints  upon  the 
walls,  which  I'allas  mentions,  have 
disappeared. 

Tiiere  is  little  to  interest  the  tra- 
veller to  the  nortli  of  Bakhtchisarai, 
but,  says  Mr.  11.  D.  Seymour,  let  him 
go  east,  south,  and  west  of  Man  gup, 
and  he  may  make  endless  excursions 
in  a  most  lovely  country.  He  may 
wander  uj)  the  valleys  of  the  Belbek, 
the  Katcha,  and  the  Alma,  and  cross 
the  mountainous  country  which  di- 
vides their  channels;  and  whether  ho 
be  geologist,  archicologist,  or  only  an 
admirer  of  the  beauties  of  nature,  ho 
will  tind  his  tastes  amply  gratified, 
and  every  simple  want  supplied, 
anK»ng  the  primitive  and  hosjutablc 
Tartars. 


i.—Bahhtchisaral  to  Simpheropolj 
crossing  the  Valley  of  the  Alma. 

Although  the  traveller  is  recom- 
mended to  visit  Simpheropol  from 
Alushta,  yet,  as  he  may  be  tempted  to 
extend   his   journey   from    Bakhtclii- 


sarai,  the  route  to  Simpheropol  is  here 
given. 

A  tolerably  good  road  leads  from 
Bakhtchisarai  to  Simpheroi^ol.  The 
distance  is  30  v.  (20  miles)  along  a 
waste  steppe,  with  the  exception  of  a 
mile  and  a  half  of  the  distance,  during 
which  it  passes  through  the  pretty 
valley  of  the  Upper  Alma,  about  mid- 
way to  Simpheropol.  An  excursion 
may  very  well  be  made  on  horseback 
from  Bakhtchisarai,  for  the  purpose  of 
seeing  the  celebrated  battle-field. 

The  Alma  (which  means  "Apple" 
in  the  Tartar  language)  rises  in  the 
Siuabdagh,  S.  of  the  (Jhatyrdagh,  and 
runs  a  course  of  4G  to  50  miles,  first 
S.W.,  then  due  W.  Its  valley  is  re- 
markable for  its  fertility,  and  particu- 
larly for  its  fine  orchards  of  apples, 
whence  also  its  name  of  "  Alma."  Vil- 
lages and  ancient  remains  mark  the 
wliole  of  its  course.  Of  the  latter  tlie 
most  remarkable  will  be  found  near 
the  villa g(;  of  Bazarchik,  10  v.  N.  of 
Baklitchisarai,  where,  at  a  place 
called  Ilanl'l,  is  a  fine  ruin  of  a  khan's 
palace.  But  in  order  to  reach  the  field 
of  Alma,  the  traveller  will  make  for  a 
point  lower  down  the  river,  which  he 
will  reach  by  taking  a  road  that  leads 
N.N.W.  out  of  Bakhtchisarai,  through 
the  village  of  Idighiel.  Keeping  along 
the  same  road  for  a  «listance  of  12  to 
15  v.,  he  will  reach  the  banks  of  the 
Alma  at  about  10  v.  from  its  mouth, 
and,  proceeding  down  the  valley,  will 
arrive  at  the  ground  on  wliich  the 
Allies  met  with  their  first  success.  (For 
a  description  of  the  battle,  vide  His- 
torical Notice.) 

SiMniEROroL.  —  For    description  of 
town,  vide,  8,  Alushta  to  Simpheropol. 


5. — Sevastopol  to  Alupha,  through  the 
Valley  of  Baidar. 

The  journey  from  Sevastopol  to 
Alupka  'may  be  easily  made  in  one 
day.  The  first  stage  is  Balaclava,  12 
versts.  Here  an  attempt  may  be  made 
to  induce  the  traveller  to  take  three 
horses,  but  two  are  amply  suilicieut 


unless  the  baggage  is  heavy.  Soon, 
after  leaving  Balaclava  the  track 
emerges  on  the  high  road,  which  is 
the  best  in  all  the  Crimea.  There 
is  then  a  long  descent,  followed  by 
a  longer  ascent,  exceedingly  well 
managed,  winding  round  the  hills 
amid  beautiful  forests ;  then  another 
long  descent,  in  some  places  very 
steep,  to  the  beautiful  valley  and  vil- 
lage of 

Baidak,  22  v.  from  Balaclava,  where 
begins  the  most  beautiful  part  of  the 
Crimea. 

This  valley  is  12  m.  (IG  v.)  in 
length  from  S.W.  to  X.E.,  and  5  to  7 
m.  in  breadth.  Numerous  rivulets 
flow  into  it,  and  join  the  waters  of  the 
Tcheniaya,  the  sources  of  which  are 
on  the  slopes  of  the  mountains  of 
Ussundji,  by  which  the  valley  is 
bounded  on  the  E.  The  bottom  of  the 
valley  is  undulated  and  covered  with 
wood,  meadows,  and  pastures.  Twelve 
Tartar  villages,  each  surrounded  with 
vineyards,  and  almost  concealed  in  the 
luxuriant  foliage  of  huge  walnut-trees, 
oaks,  and  poplars,  are  ensconced  in  it. 
Of  these  the  village  at  which  the 
traveller  will  stop  is  the  largest,  as 
it  has  195  Inliab,,  2  mosques,  and 
several  houses  of  2  stories.  The 
rivulet  which  runs  through  it  is  like- 
wise called  Baidar,  and  it  flows  into 
the  Tchernaya.  The  valley  of  Baidar 
has  been  described  as  the  Tauric  Ar- 
cadia, and  travellers  have  bestowed 
almost  extravagant  praise  upon  it. 
Dr.  Lyell  says,  *'  For  myself,  though  I 
have  visited  the  Caucasus  and  the 
fairy  scenery  of  the  well  -  known 
Trosachs  in  Scotland,  I  still  regard 
the  valley  of  Baidar  as  uncommonly 
fine,  and  worthy  of  most  of  the  eulo- 
giums  bestowed  upon  it." 

Dr.  Lyell  passed  a  night  in  the 
village  of  Baidar,  and  slept  on  a  Tartar 
divan  in  the  upper  room  of  one  of  the 
cottages.  Travellers  provided  with 
provisions  should  do  the  same,  and 
pass  a  day  in  exploring  the  beautiful 
valley. 

On  leaving  the  village  of  Baidar 
the  road  ascends  once  more  until  the 
highest  part  of  the  mountain  is  reached 


29G 


Boiite  17. — Las}^. 


Sect.  11. 


I 


Eussia. 


Boute  17. — Kilzineis^ 


297 


at  the  "Baidar  Gate,"  or  pass  of 
Phoros,  over  whicli  a  good  mac- 
adamized road  was  made  by  Prinrc 
Woronzoff  in  1S35,  and  where,  passing 
under  an  archway,  the  traveller  enjoys 
his  first  glimpse  of  the  celebrated  coast 
of  the  Crimea.  The  sea  lies  at  his  fret 
at  the  distance  of  a  mile,  and  the  high 
precipitous  mountains  which  rise  in 
an  amphitheatre  on  his  left  hand 
recede  a  short  distance  from  the  coast, 
and  leave  a  narrow  margin  of  fertile 
country,  with  a  climate  like  that  of 
Greece  and  Italy.  The  glittering 
haze  of  the  blue  sea,  the  balmy  air. 
the  lofty  mountains,  with  clear  outline 
drawn  against  a  cloudless  sky,  and 
softened  by  the  delicate  tints  of  a 
southern  atmosphere,  are  natural  phe- 
nomena of  which  no  description  can 
give  an  idea,  but  which  once  seen 
enrich  the  mind  with  a  new  stock  of 


images. 


The  climate  of  the  southern  coast, 
which  the  traveller  has  now  reached, 
is  completely  dilferent  from  thut  of 
any  other  part  of  the  Crimea.  To  the 
N.  of  the  mountains,  even  as  far  as 
Balaclava  and  tlie  valley  of  Baidar, 
there  is  always  a  severe  winter,  and 
the  ground,  as  wo  too  well  know,  is 
covered  with  snow.  But  when  once 
the  pass  of  Phoros  is  crossed  the 
climate  entirely  changes.  No  snow 
ever  falls  on  the  sea  region,  an<l  a 
perpetual  spring  reigns  there.  Not 
far  from  the  pass,  or  Baidar  Gate,  is 
the  "  Devil's  Staircase,"  which  was 
formerly  the  only  path  to  the  S.  coast 
without  making  a  long  detour. 

Descending  the  pass  by  a  series  of 
deep  zigzags  with  very  sharp  angles, 
the  macadamized  road  leads  to  the 
1.  towards  the  village  of  Kikineis. 

Mr.  H.  D.  Seymour  recommends 
liere  a  short  detour  to  the  right,  for 
the  purpose  of  visiting  a  secluded  and 
beautiful  little  nook  which  was  a 
favourite  spot  in  early  Greek  times. 
This  is  the  sheltered  little  valley  and 
village  of  Laspi.  The  road  to  it  from 
Phoros  is  a  labyrinth  of  trees  and 
verdure,  yet  the  ground  is  covered 
with  large  masses  of  porphyry,  large 
jets  of  which  rise  in  some  places  to 
the  height  of  1000  ft.    The  valley,  says 


Mr.  Seyraonr,  quoting  Dubois,  has  been 
created  by  an  igneous  agency,  which 
has  detached  Mount  Ilia  from  the  prin- 
cipal Tauric  chain,  to  which  it  is 
united  by  a  ridge  of  .schist  and  sand- 
stone about  GOO  ft-  broad.  On  the 
top  of  this  ridge  arise  at  intervals 
about  a  dozen  enormous  aiguilles,  40 
or  .50  ft.  high,  which  look  as  if,  like 
Stonehenge,  they  belonged  to  somo 
gigantic  work  of  man. 

The  ancient  village  of  Laspi  .stood 
on  the  side  of  the  valley,  higii  up  on 
tlie  connecting  ridge,  touching  the 
aiguilles,  and  its  inhabitants  thus  en- 
joyed a  magnificent  view  over  the 
valley  and  the  sea,  and  far  away  along 
the  coast  on  the  other  side  of  the  bay, 
wiiich  is  terminated  by  the  promon- 
tory of  jNIount  Asia.  Just  beh)W  the 
village  aro  the  ruins  of  a  church  of  the 
early  Christian  times,  surrounded  by  a 
cemetery  in  which  are  tombs  in  the 
shajie  of  long  sarcophagi,  with  a  S(piaro 
tower  at  the  head,  entered  by  a  small 
door,  which  is  finished  above  in  a 
triangle.  Over  this  a  cross  is  sculp- 
tured, and  some  attribute,  as  a  i)ast<)ral 
sti»tt\  or  a  Tartar  hatchet  with  two 
edges,  a  pickaxe,  a  spur,  a  plough,  or 
a  table,  emblematic  of  the  occupation 
of  tho.se  who  slept  below.  These  tombs 
belonged  to  the  (ireeks,  who  inhabited 
many  places  in  this  part  of  the  Crimea ; 
but  there  are  no  in.scriptions  remaining 
here,  except  one  of  the  late  date  1772. 
Around  the  church  of  the  cemetery  are 
the  ruins  of  houses  and  esplanades, 
with  avenues  of  fruit-trees  now  be- 
come wild,  among  which  one  observer 
counted  no  fewer  than  five  thousand 
plum-trees. 

The  village  of  Laspi,  true  to  the  an- 
cient traditions  of  the  Greeks,  accord- 
ing to  which  they  placed  their  temples 
on  elevated  sites,  whence  the  majesty 
of  tlie  gods  might  be  recognised  from 
all  parts,  had  on  the  summit  of  Mount 
Ilia  a  church  which  might  be  recog- 
nised from  the  vast  plains  of  the  sea 
around  it,  dedicated  to  St.  Elias,  and 
still  a  favourite  place  of  pilgrimage. 
From  the  top  of  the  ridge  it  is  easily 
approached  by  a  winding  path  across 
the  mossy  turf,  on  each  side  of  whi 


are  the  ruins  of  houses.  The  church, 
now  a  ruin,  occupied  the  liighest  point 
of  the  mountain,  and  near  it  is  a 
sacred  cavern,  vaulted  with  the  stone 
of  Inkerman,  of  whicli  the  church 
itself  was  built.  A  sculptured  cross 
marks  this  as  a  Christian  construction, 
and  a  warm  damp  air  that  escapes 
from  it  is  the  cause  of  the  superstition 
attributing  to  it  miraculous  powers  for 
the  recovery  of  health.  A  sheer  pre- 
cipice is  in  front,  and  the  view  from  it 
splendid. 

Returning  to  the  high  road  at  Pnoros, 
the  traveller  will  pass  over  about  20  v. 
of  a  road  comparatively  uninteresting, 
since  it  is  bounded  on  the  side  of  the 
mountains  by  a  regular  precipice  of 
Jurassic  limestone,  from  500  to  800  ft. 
high,  which,  having  as  an  understratum 
a  crumbling  schist,  is  continually  fall- 
ing down  in  huge  masses,  which  have 
sometimes  buried  whole  villages,  as 
for  instance  in  1780,  at  Kutchuk-Koi, 
4  v.  from  Kikineis,  which  the  traveller 
will  now  reach. 

KiKiNET.*!,  22  V.  from  Baidar.  This 
is  a  village  of  no  great  size,  but  plea- 
santly situated,  amid  walnut-trees, 
plum-trees,  cherry-trees,  and  Nines,  and 
commands  an  extensive  view.  The 
Tartar  mountaineers  of  Kikineis,  as 
well  as  those  of  Limen  and  Simiiis 
(which  will  Ix)  passed  later),  have  a 
strange  physiognomy,  dilierent  from 
that  of  all  the  other  inhabitants  of 
Crim  Tartary.  Faces  of  uncommon 
length,  as  well  as  arched  noses  exceed- 
ingly long,  and  a  high  head,  com- 
pressed with  a  view  to  render  them 
unusually  flat,  all  contribute  to  pro- 
duce diversified  caricatures,  so  that 
the  greater  part  of  these  persons  have 
distorted  countenances,  and  the  least 
deformed  resemble  the  figures  of  satyrs. 
There  was  an  ancient  habit  of  the 
Genoese  that  may  perhaps  account  for 
their  peculiarities.  They  had  adopted 
from  their  predecessors  the  Moors  the 
habit  of  compressing  the  heads  of  the 
new-ljorn  infants  above  the  temples,  so 
that  perhaps  these  villagers,  with  their 
singular  faces,  are  the  remaining  de- 
scendants of  the  ancient  Genoese,  who 
inhabited  the  Crimea,  and,  notwith- 


standing the  lapse  of  time,  have  pre- 
served their  extraordinary  visages.  It 
is  further  remarkable  that  the  hair 
and  beards  of  these  mountaineers  are 
almost  uniformly  light  reddish,  or  even 
flaxen:  —  an  unusual  colour  in  the 
Crimea. 

It  is  certain  all  the  inhabitants  who 
at  present  occupy  the  villages  situated 
on  the  southern  coast,  though  regarded 
as  Tartars,  are  nevertheless  the  off- 
spring of  other  nations  who  have  either 
landed  here,  or  have  been  driven 
thither  from  the  interior,  and  who 
were  strangers  to  the  later  race,  but 
especially  to  that  of  the  INIongols. 

Chang-ing  horses   at  Kikineis,  the 
traveller  will  post  on  through  Limen 
(^3  m.  from  the  latter  station  ,  which 
was  one  of  the   most  important    for- 
tresses on  the  coast,  placed  on  a  high 
steep  rock,  only  approachable  by  one 
path,  and  defended  by  a  strong  wall 
the  construction  of  which  the  Tartars 
attributed  to  the  Genoese.    Trace>5  of 
the   fortress  are   still  to  be  seen,  in 
strange  contrast  with  smiling  country 
houses,  surrounded  by  ancient  olive- 
groves    and  splendid  fig-trees.     The 
traces  of  a  violent  volcanic  action  are 
ai)parent  here.     The  whole  space  from 
the  top  of  the  moimtuins  to  the  sea 
below    is    covered    with    stupendous 
blocks  of  stone,   thrown  pellmell  one 
upon  another,  some  even  half-buried  in 
the  sea,  whence  only  their  tops  are 
visible,  beaten  by  the  waves;  one  of 
the  largest  of  these  erratic  blocks  is 
called   Panea,  and  upon    it   are   the 
ruins  of  an  ancient  castle.   The  agents 
of  all  these  convulsions  are  to  be  seen 
in  two  jets  of  porphyry,  which,  piercing 
through    the    schist   underlying    the 
limestone,   have    struck   against    the 
stupendous    walls    of    the    limestone 
itself,  which  forms  the  flat  table-land, 
or  yaila,  of  the  mountains  above.     In 
one   place   the   yaila  is  broken,    and 
through   the    limestone  there  appear 
forced  up  the  schists  and  the  porphyry, 
mixed    together    in    a   paste,    which 
proves  that  they  were  in  a  liquid  state 
when  the  jets  arose. 

About  3  m.  beyond  Limen  is  another 
charming  spot  called  Sime'is.  The 
formidable  aspect  of  the  craggy  and 


298 


Boiile  17. — Alupla. 


Sect.  11. 


Kussia. 


Boute  17. — Kureis  —  Morgudu. 


299 


peaked  rooks  on  the  N".,  tlic  unbounded 
tranquil  dark-blue  sea  on  the  S.,  with 
the  smiling  valley  of  Simeis  between 
them,  covered  with  very  luxuriant 
foliage,  form  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting scenes  wliich  it  is  possible  to 
conceive.  Castelnau,  aFrcMich  traveller, 
exclaims,  "  Suisse,  si  fertile  en  char- 
mans  paysages,  on  vous  oublic  en 
voyaut  le  vallon  do  Semeus." 

A  winding  road  of  about  2  miles, 
through  the  most  charming  scenery, 
will  bring  the  traveller  to  the  end  of 
this  joiU"ney,  which  is 

Alupka,  a  village  of  about  4000 
Inhab. 

Hotel  kept  by  a  Frenchman ;  very 
comfiDrta bly  furnished. 

This  is  the  celebrated  seat  of  Prhice 
Woronzolf,  whose  villa,  (or  rather  pa- 
lace, for  it  contains  upwards  of  200 
rooms,)  is  built  on  a  romantic  spot, 
whyre  the  rocks  sipproach  very  near 
to  the  sea.  It  stan<ls,  however,  at  the 
height  of  about  15;")  ft.  alM)ve  the  sea, 
and  the  gardens  descend  to  the  shore. 
The  promontory  of  Aithidor  is  seen  on 
the  E.  jutting  out  into  the  sea,  and 
giving  a  curve  to  the  coast,  which 
adds  greatly  to  its  beauty ;  while  im- 
mediately behind  the  palace  rises 
Mount  Ai  Petri  or  Mount  St.  Peter, 
to  a  height  of  3900  ff. 

Built  under  the  personal  sujierin- 
tendence  of  Mr.  Hunt,  an  English 
architect,  after  designs  by  Mr.  Blore, 
the  architecture  of  this  residence  is 
a  skilfid  mixture  of  the  Elizabethan 
with  the  Moorish.  The  material,  a 
greenish  pori>hyry,  was  taken  from 
the  crater  of  an  extinct  volcano  at  the 
back  of  the  house  :  the  turrets,  tracery, 
mullions,  coigns,  and  other  ornamental 
parts  of  the  building,  are  all  of  the 
same  stone,  which  is  exceeclingly  hard 
and  ditticult  to  work.  The  (Ihiing- 
room  IS  of  splendid  dimensions,  and 
lighted  by  2  immense  windows  over- 
looking the  sea :  the  groined  ceiling 
is  of  oak,  and  the  wall  opposite  the 
windows  is  ornamented  with  2  foun- 
tains of  elegant  form  in  a  dove-co- 
loured marble,  with  'dark  red  veins, 
peculiar  to  the  Crimea.  These  foun- 
tains play  at  all  times,  being  fed  by 


a  crystal  rill  from  the  mountains. 
Among  the  art  treasures  and  curiosi- 
ties of  the  palace  are  original  portraits 
of  Lucrezi.a  Borgia  and  her  husband. 
The  terrace  in  front  of  the  chateau  is 
ornamented  with  orange-trees  and 
other  choice  plants  ;  the  gardens  are 
well  laid  out,  but  small,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  plateau  of  land  on  which 
the  house  stands  being  circumscribed 
by  the  sudden  rise  of  the  mountains 
at  the  back  and  tli(^  precipitous  fall  of 
the  ground  towards  the  sea  in  front. 
Among  the  trees  are  2  remarkable 
cypresses,  said  to  have  been  planted 
by  Prince  Potemkin,  when  Catherine 
visited  tiie  Crimea  in  1787.  The 
ornamental  water  is  full  of  trout,  and 
the  vineyard  contains  140,000  plants 
of  the  best  species. 

In  addition  to  the  beauty  of  the 
landscape  and  the  si)Ii'ndour  of  Prince 
AVoronzoll's  palace,  Alujika  boasts  of 
some  ancient  ruins  on  a  rock  detached 
from  the  main  ridge  and  marked  by  a 
tall  white  cro.ss. 

The  traveller  may  well  halt  hero 
for  a  day  or  two,  and  raml>le  about  in 
the  lovely  neighbourhood.  By  no 
means  the  least  of  the;  many  attrac- 
tions here  are  a  French  cuisine,  com- 
bined with  English  comforts,  and 
Prince  Woronzoft's  delicious  Crimean 
wine,  Massandra  and  Ai-Danil,  sup- 
plied at  the  moderate  rate  of  40  co- 
l)ecks,  while  the  Cornishman  may  even 
revel  in  pilchards,  which,  in  the  days 
of  Pallas,  were  taken  with  the  hand 
between  the  stones  on  ihe  coast  diu-ing 
the  night,  by  th(j  aid  of  torches  made 
of  resinous  wood. 

In  rambling  about  the  rocks  the 
visitor  to  Alupka  should  beware  of 
scorpions,  which  in  Die  vernal  season, 
says  Pallas,  may  be  found  of  dilferent 
sizes,  and  beneath  almost  every  stone 
in  old  walls. 


6. — Alupka  to  Yalta,  through  Llvadia. 

The  entire  distance  from  Alupka  to 
Yalta  is  only  16  v.  or  12  English  m., 
and  the  road  is  full  of  interest,  ]>eing 
through  a  succession  of  beautiful  es- 
tates.   One  of  the   seats  nearest  to 


'% 


Alupka  is  Mishhor,  built  by  General 
Leo  Narishkin,  a  celebrated  Russian 
beau  of  the  early  part  of  this  centy., 
who  followc<l  the  prevailing  fsishion  of 
having  a  villa  on  the  8.  coast,  and  a 
vineyard  of  000  acns  which  produces  a 
wine  something  like  hock.  Adjohiing 
it  is  the  estate  of  iu^re/s,  interesting  as 
having  belonged  to  a  Princess  Galitzin, 
on(;  of  a  celebrated  trio  of  ladies  who, 
under  the  reign  of  the  impressionable 
Emperor  Alexander,  lirst  exercised  a 
great  intiuence  at  court,  and  then, 
turning  from  the  world  to  heaven, 
endeavoured  to  form  a  religious  society 
for  the  immediate  conversion  of  the 
whole  world  to  Christ — a  conversion 
which  they  thought  had  been  too  long 
delayed.  The  poor  surrounded  their 
doors  in  crowds  at  St.  Petersburg,  for 
they  were  very  charitable  of  alms  for 
the  body  as  well  as  the  soul,  and  their 
intiuence  rose  so  rapidly,  that  the 
ministers  induced  the  Emperor  to  sign 
the  order  for  their  banishment  to  the 
Crimea,  a  sentence  which  they  ac- 
cepted with  joy  as  a  mission  from 
heaven  to  evangelize  the  Tartars. 

The  other  2  ladies  were  the  cele- 
brated INIadame  de  Krudener  and  a 
mysterious  personage  who  went  under 
this  name  of  the  Countess  Gaucher, 
but  who,  after  her  death,  proved  to 
have  been  the  famous  Countess  de  la 
Motte,  who  was  publicly  whip}>ed  and 
branded  on  the  Place  de  la  (ireve  as 
an  accomplice  in  the  scandalous  allair 
of  the  diamond  necklace  of  Marie 
Antoinette.  Both  she  and  the  Princess 
Galitzin  adopted  a  kind  of  male  attire, 
suited  to  their  independent  mode  of 
life. 

At  each  moment  from  this  spot  the 
coast  widens,  and  leaves  a  greater 
space  between  the  overhanging  moun- 
tains and  the  sea.  Around  the  little 
village  of  Gaspra  the  ground  unduhites 
prettily,  and  every  spot  is  cultivated 
and  covered  with  rich  woods,  orchards, 
vineyards,  and  gardens,  in  the  midst 
of  which  peep  out  villas  and  country 
houses.  Every  kind  of  fruit,  shrub, 
and  forest  tree  is  to  be  found  ;  in  fact, 
a  more  abundant  and  varied  vege- 
tation cannot  bo  seen  anywhere. 
Amongst  the  fruit-trees  arc  the  vine. 


olive,  pomegranate,  fig,  peach,  necta- 
rine, and  apricot.  The  walnut  is  par- 
ticularly large  in  its  growth,  and  may 
be  called  a  forest  tree.  The  shrubs 
are  beautiful  and  include  the  juniper 
and  laurel ;  and  on  many  of  the  trees 
in  the  hedgerows,  for  there  is  a  great 
deal  of  fencing,  the  wild  hop  and  vine 
may  be  seen  climbing  from  one  to  the 
other,  mingling  with  the  clematis  and 
forming  the  most  *  graceful  festoons. 
The  whole  resembles  a  view  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Naples.  Seen  from 
the  water  it  is  remarkably  striking, 
but  nothing  can  be  imagined  more 
enchanting  than  the  drive  through 
the  scenery  along  this  coast. 

On  the  top  of  a  hill  not  far  from 
the  road,  and  near  some  old  ruined 
fortresses,  is  an  ancient  monument 
which  the  traveller  will  little  expect 
to  find  in  Crini  Tartary,  namely  rocks 
piled  up  exactly  like  the  Celtic  re- 
mains of  Brittany  and  Cornwall. 

Beyond  Gaspra  the  road  winds  in- 
wards in  order  to  pass  the  limestone 
strata  of  the  promontory  of  Aithodor. 
A  wild  path  of  2  m.  leads  from  tlie 
road  to  tlic  summit  of  the  promontory, 
in  the  midst  of  oriental  juniper-trees 
and  ruins  at  every  step.  On  the  top 
are  5  columns  of  white  marble,  and 
the  remains  of  an  ancient  monastery, 
which  probably,  coutiimes  Mr.  H.  D. 
Seymour,  occupies  the  site  of  some 
ancient  Greek  temple  jjlaced  like  that 
at  Suuium  in  Attica. 

Monfudu  or  Orianda  de  Witt,  a  pa- 
lace built  by  Count  de  Witt,  a  native 
of  Holland,  and  bequeathed  by  him 
to  the  Grand  Duchess  Helen  of  Kussia, 
comes  next.  It  is  built  on  a  terrace 
900  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  forms  a  fan- 
tastic assemblage  of  neglected  and 
decaying  buildings  in  a  mixed  Oriental, 
Gothic,  and  Greek  style.  Around  it 
is  a  kind  of  natural  park,  in  which 
splendid  trees  grow  on  the  broken 
ground  interspersed  with  enormous 
masses  of  rock  at  the  fcot  of  the  pre- 
cipice of  Mount  Megabi,  and  here  the 
arbutus  and  juniper-tree  grow  to  an 
enormous  size. 

The  width  of  the  plain  is  here  nearly 
4  m.,  and  Mount  INIegabi  rises  in  the 
midst  of  it.     Close  to  the  sea-shore  is 

p  3 


300 


Boiite  17. — Livadia, 


Sect.  II. 


the  spot  chosen  by  the  Emperor  Alex- 
ander I.  to  build  a  retreat  which  he 
called  Orianda.     In  the  midst  of  the 
picturesque  chaos  peculiar  to  the  coast 
he   formed  an   English   garden,   and 
planted  a  vineyard  and  olive-grounds 
near  the  modest  dwelling-liouse.     The 
Emperor    Nicholas,   however,  erected 
in  its  stead  a  huge  palace,  consisting 
of  a   centre   and   2    side-wings.     In- 
ternally  it  is  arranged  like   an   old 
Greek  house,  and  is  richly  ornamented 
with   wall-painting.      The   celebrated 
Schinkel   was    the    architect,    and    a 
beautiful   work    lias    been    published 
ujKDn  it  at  Berlin.     Its  low  situation 
on  the  sea-shore,  with  high  cliffs  and 
tall  trees  overshadowing  it,  renders  it 
gloomy,  but  suited  to  the  health  and 
taste  of  the  late  consort  of  the  Emperor 
Nicholas,  who   spent   several  winters 
there.    In  the   grounds   are  shown  2 
celebrated  fig-trees  70  ft.  high.     Here 
the   Emperor  Alexander  intended   to 
retire,  surrounded  by  his  friends,    to 
whom  he  meant  to  allot  estates  near 
his  own.    His  sudden  death  at  Tagan- 
rog put  an  end  to  these  projects,  and 
Marshal    Diebitsch,    who    afterwards 
commanded  in  the  Turkish  and  Polish 
wars,  was  the  only  one  who  received 
an  estate  of  about  100  acres  adjoining 
the  emperor "s  garden. 

Just  where  the  two  estates  meet  is  a 
precipitous  hill,  witli  many  traces  of  a 
settlement  of  the  ancient  Tauri,  whose 
Acropolis  occupied  its  sunmiit.  The 
estate  of  Orianda  now  belongs  to  the 
Grand  Duke  Constantino,  who  has 
with  gi'eat  consideration  removed  the 
fence  on  his  side  of  the  road,  which 
is  here  cut  in  the  side  of  tlie  hill,  so 
that  the  wayfjirer  may  enjoy  a  view  of 
his  house.  At  a  mile  from  Orianda 
are  the  little  Greek  village  and  the 
Palace  of 


Ln'ADiA,  the  property  of  her  INIa- 
jesty  the  Empress.  This  beautiful 
estate  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the 
post-road  to  Yalta,  and  covers  an  area 
of  about  700  English  acres.  Most  of 
the  estates  on  this  coast  were  origin- 
ally given  to  the  Greeks  who  settled 
in  the  Crimea  after  the  treaty  of 
Kuchuk-Kainardji,  and  Livadia  (the 


Greek  word  for  meadow)  fell  to  the 
share  of  Colonel  Ileveliotti,  comman- 
der of  the  Greek  battalion.  In  1834 
it  was  purchased  by  Count  Leo  Po- 
tocki,  who  planted  a  vineyard,  and 
laid  out  the  present  beautiful  park 
and  gardens.  The  gardener  who  con- 
ductt-d  the  works  was  Joachim  Tascher, 
a  relative  of  Josephine,  the  first  wife  of 
Napoleon  I.  When  the  latter  became 
Emperor  of  the  French  he  offered  to 
l»lace  Joachim  Tascher  in  a  ix)sition 
suitable  to  his  rank  and  relationship, 
but  Tascher  declined,  and  asked  to 
be  allowed  to  follow  in  obscurity  his 
favourite  Iwtanical  pursuits.  He  was 
thereupon  sent  to  study  gardening 
under  one  of  the  best  Swiss  gardeners 
in  Alsace.  From  thenc(^  Tascher  en- 
tered the  service  of  Count  Potocki, 
first  on  an  estate  in  Galicia,  and  later 
at  Livadia. 

On  the  death  of  Coiuit  Potocki,  who 
spent  large  sums  in  embellishing  the 
house  and  grounds,  Livadia  was  jmr- 
chased  in  18G1  by  the  Department  of 
Appanages,  and  by  an  ukaz  of  the  same 
year   was    presented  by   the  emperor 
to  her  Imperial  jNIiijesty  the  Empress. 
Two  other  estates,  Chair-Jacciuemart, 
so  called   after    an   eccentric   French 
lady  who  retired  here,  and  jNIaraveli, 
were  at  the  same  time  added  to   it, 
and  Professor  jMonighetti  of  St.  Peters- 
buig  was  charged   in  1862  with  the 
reconstruction  of  the  premises.     The 
facade  of  the  palace  hos   been  little 
altered,  but  the  balustrades,  vases,  and 
cariatidt  s  have  very  much  changed  its 
outward  appearance  since  the  days  of 
Count  Potocki.     A  wide  balcony  runs 
along  one  side  of  the  palace,  and  is 
the  favourite  resting-i)laee  of  the  em- 
press during  the  hot  days  of  summer. 
The  map  of  the  Crimea,  which  will  be 
seen  in  this  balcony,  is  by  the  famous 
Russian  painter  Aivazf>lsky,  and  the 
view  of  liivadia,  a  vol  d'oheau,  is  the 
work  of  the  artist  Fessler.     The  inte- 
rior of  the  palace   is   strikingly  and 
elegantly  simple,  the  furniture  being 
covered   with   a   pretty   chintz.     The 
handsomest  rooms  are  the  emperor's 
study,  the  empress's  drawing-room,  and 
the  dining-rof>m,  alongside  of  which 
is  a  fountain. 


Russia. 


Boute  17. — Yalta, 


301 


Visitors  should  not  fail,  if  possible, 
to  see  the  ch.  in  the  palace.  It  was 
consecrated  in  186G,  and  is  purely 
Byzantine  in  arrangement  and  deco- 
ration. The  frescoes  on  the  walls 
were  painted  by  Izel,  and  the  sym- 
bolical ornaments  and  inscriptions 
are  by  Beideman  of  the  Imperial  Aca- 
demy. The  Ikonostas  or  altar-screen 
is  of  white  marble,  and  on  a  pedestal 
of  Crimean  porphyry  is  a  white  mar- 
ble cross  presented  to  the  "Tsar 
Emancipator "  by  the  workmen  of 
Livadia  in  token  of  their  "gratitude 
for  the  emancipation  of  the  peasants." 

Next  the  palace  is  the  house  ap- 
propriated to  the  Grand  Dukes.  It  is 
in  the  Oriental  style  of  architecture, 
and  is  ornamented  after  the  model  of 
the  palace  at  Bakhchisarai.  Beyond 
this  are  a  house  for  the  suite  of  their 
majesties,  a  bath  with  a  large  basin 
filled  with  sea-water,  barracks  for 
musicians,  and,  on  the  road  to  the  sea, 
a  tunnel  with  a  pavilion  in  the  Tm*kish 
style,  leadhig  to  a  beautiful  walk 
cf)vered  in  with  trellis-work  and  roses. 
The  hothouses  arc  full  of  the  choicest 
l)lants,  and  numerous  fountains  impart 
tlieir  coolness  to  this  enchanthig  re- 
treat. 

The  vineyard  covers  an  area  of  50 
acres,  and  consists  of  170,000  plants, 
which  in  18GC  yielded  8000  gallons  of 
red  wine,  considered  the  best  on  the  S. 
coast,  and  consumed  principally  by 
the  monks  of  Kief. 

There  are  traces  of  ancient  building 
on  the  estate,  and  the  ruins  of  a  cha- 
pel near  one  of  the  4  springs.  In  the 
vicinity,  also,  in  a  gloomy  gorge  of  the 
mountains,  is  the  castle  of  Uchansu, 
which  was  used  by  the  Turks  as  a 
prison. 

A  drive  of  about  5  v.  (3  m.)  from 
Livadia  will  bring  the  traveller  to  the 
pretty  villas,  which,  reminding  him 
strongly  of  the  environs  of  an  English 
city,  form,  as  it  were,  the  suburbs  of 

Yalta,  chief  town  of  a  district.  Pop. 
1100.  Uoieh:  Galakofs  Hotel,  the 
best,  rooms  very  expensive,  and  no 
cuisine;  H.  de  Yalta,  kept  by  a 
Frenchman,  rooms  not  as  good  as  at 
Galakofs,  but  cuisine  excellent,  prices 


moderate ;   H.  Woronzoff,  clean   and 
good. 

Vehicles,  horses,  &c. — At  the  back  of 
the  Hotel  de  Yalta  are  livery-stables 
Icept  by  a  Frenchman,  where  horses 
with  English  saddles  may  be  had  for 
the  various  excursions. 

Steamers. — Twice  a  week,  both  up 
and  down  the  coast.  Steamer  to 
Odessa  takes  about  30  hrs. 

lit  story. — There  is  abundant  evi- 
dence to  prove  that  Yalta  was  a  place 
of  some  importance  in  the  remote 
days  of  antiquity.  The  extraordinary 
groups  of  stone  found  near  Gaspra 
and  on  the  road  to  IMassandra,  so 
similar  in  character  to  the  Druidical 
or  Celtic  remains  of  Western  Europe, 
are  considered  by  archaeologists  to 
have  been  erected  and  used  as  altars 
by  the  Tauri.  At  the  same  time,  the 
history  of  Yalta  only  commences  in 
the  12th  centy.,  when  Ibn  Edrizi,  the 
Arabian  geographer,  speaks  of  a  town 
called  Galita  or  Djalita,  on  the  S. 
coast  of  the  Crimea.  He  mentions 
that  it  was  then  inhabited  by  the 
Comans  or  Polovtses.  From  Charters 
of  the  Patriarchs  of  Constantinople  it 
appears  that  in  the  14th  centy.  Yalita 
or  Gialita  belonged  to  the  patriarchs. 
In  the  loth  centy.  it  was  in  the  hands 
of  the  Genoese,  who  kept  a  special 
consul  there.  Towards  the  end  of  the 
same  centy.  Yalita  was  almost  entirely 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake,  but  it 
was  again  partially  rebuilt.  W'hen 
the  Tartars  and  Turks  took  the  Cri- 
mea, Yalta  was  included  in  the 
Kadalyk  of  INIangup,  whieli  belonged 
immediately  to  the  Sultan  of  Turkey. 
It  remained  an  inconsiderable  village 
until  1838,  when  it  was  made  the 
chief  town  of  a  district  of  the  same 
name. 

The  proximity  of  the  little  town  of 
Yalta  to  the  finest  scenery  of  the 
coast,  its  excellent  port  and  charming 
situation,  make  it  the  rendezvous  of 
the  tourists  who  fioek  in  great  num- 
bers to  the  Crimea  during  the  sum- 
mer season.  The  number  of  Russian 
families  that  come  here  for  the  pur- 
pose of  bathing  is  increasing  from 
year  to  year,  and  bids  fair  to  make 
Yalta    the  Russian  Brighton.      The 


302 


Boute  17. — Yalta. 


Sect.  II. 


quay  in  summer  presents  a  most  ani- 
mated scene,  and  small  craft  from  all 
parts  lie  at  anchor  in  the  little  bay. 
Nothing  can   be   more   pleasing   (wc 
quote  from  INIr.  II.  D,  Seymour;  than 
the  effect  of  the  white  town  placed  at 
the  extremity  of  the  bay,  surrounded 
by  rich  scenery,  with  the  hiirh  crests 
of  the  hills  behind  also  coviTcd  with 
verdiu-e.     The  elegant  builtUngs,  the 
handsome  hotels,  and  the  general  ap- 
pearance of  the   pripulati(»n,   all   an- 
nounce it  as  a  town  favoured  by  the 
rich  and  pleasure-seeking.     The  val- 
ley of  Yalta   is  very  beautiful,  and 
there  is  nothing  on  the  whole  coast 
more  grand  than  to  look  down  upon  it 
in   descending  the   hill   from   ]Maga- 
ratch,  stretched  out  in  a  noble  anii)hi- 
theatre  at  the  foot  of  the  precipices  of 
the  Tauric  chain.      Mount  INIcgabi  is 
then  in  front,  with   the  village   and 
vineyards  of  Aiitka  at  its  foot;  and 
Orianda  and  Cape  Aithodor  may  be 
seen  behind  it.     On  the  rt.,  looking 
down  upon  Yalta,  a  great  })romontory 
of    the   Tauric   chain,   called   jNIount 
Yoprakl,  about  4000  ft.  high,  divides 
the  valley  into  two  parts,  and  at  its 
foot  is  the  little  village  of  Derekoi, 
hidden  by  the  trees.     The  rt.  branch 
of  the  valley  is  called  Ai-Vassili ;  and 
a  village  whence  it  takes  its  name  is 
situated  at  the  foot  of  Mount  I.apata. 
To  judge  by  the  steep,  rough  aspect 
of  this  mountain,  one  would  not  ima- 
gine that  down  its  sides  is  one  of  the 
principal  roads  leadhig  from  Bakhchi- 
sarai to  the  coast.     The  road  as  far  as 
Ai-Vassali  follows  the  course  of  a  rivu- 
let, and  the  surrounding  country  has 
the  appearance  of  an  English  park, 
with  magnificent  trees  and  cascades. 
At  Ai-Vassili  the  gardens  are  filled 
with  date  and  plum-trees,   ash,  tur- 
pentine-trees,     figs,      and      walnuts. 
Around  the  village  and  above  it  are 
seen  the  sandstone  and  the  schists,  and 
the  oak  and  the  elm  cover  the  ground  ; 
but  at  the  height  of  101)0  ft.  the  lime- 
stone is  reached,  and  the  Tauric  pine 
takes  the  place  of  other  trees    and 
grows  to  a  great  size.    It  lasts  over  the 
first  layer  of  the  limestone  for  about 
7t)0  ft.,  and  is  succceiled  by  the  beech 
and  wich  elm. 


Above  these  is  the  naked  summit  of 
the  mountain,  and  then,  on  passing  a 
narrow  gorge  in  the  rocks,  the  tra- 
veller emerges  on  one  of  the  mountain 
plains  or  yaihift.  As  far  as  the'  crest 
of  the  mountain  the  sunny  landscape 
of  the  valley  of  Yalta  in  all  its  beauty 
is  spread  out,  with  a  glorious  expanse 
of  sea  beyond  it  shining  through  a 
warm  and  clear  atmosphere.  Upon 
the  yaiUis  everything  becomes  changed 
in  a  moment,  and  to  the  warm  rays  of 
the  sun  succeed  a  cold  damp  air,  and 
the  thick  icy  fog  of  a  northern  region. 
To  mark  the  road  across  it,  lest  tra- 
vellers should  lose  their  way,  heai>s 
of  stone  are  placed  at  a  distance  of 
twenty  yards,  as  far  as  the  wfK)ds  on 
the  northern  slope,  which  extends 
nearly  to  Bakhchisarai. 

It  iias  already  been  said  that  Y^alta 
might  be  made  the  head-quarters  of 
the  traveller  who  wishes  to  see  the 
Crimea  thoroughly,  and  at  the  same 
ti;ne  pleasantly. 

After  visit  big  the  cataract  of  Z7- 
chan-su,  near  Yalta,  a  very  pictiu*- 
esque  spot,  and  spending  a  day  in 
quietude,  the  traveller  will  be  eager  to 
continue  his  journey.  Should  he  not 
have  visited  Baklichisarai  and  Mangup- 
Kale  from  Sevastopol,  the  excursion 
may  easily  be  made  from  Yalta. 

By  getthig  up  early  in  the  morning, 
a  journey  may  be  made  to  3I(ut(inp- 
Kale,  a  very  interesting  spot,  and 
back,  in  one  day.  This  will  Ijc  an  ex- 
cursion of  about  12  hrs.,  but  the  wiry 
Tartar  horses  are  capable  of  a  great 
deal  more  work,  and  are,  in  addition, 
wonderfully  surefooted.  The  ride  is 
most  delightful,  and  the  views  from 
the  summit  of  the  mountain-})ass  the 
most  extensive  an«l  varied  in  the  pe- 
ninsula. The  descent  to  the  village 
of  Osembash,  on  the  road  to  INIangup- 
Kale,  is  precipitous  and  difficult,  but 
from  thence  the  road  passes  through 
exquisite  mountain-locked  valleys, 
shaded  by  noble  trees,  until  the  cliff, 
inaccessible  except  on  one  side,  where 
the  fortress  stands,  is  visible. 

For  a  description  of  ]Mangup-Kale, 
and  of  Bakhchisarai,  which  may  like- 
wise be  reached  by  this  route,  ride 
I'.xcursiou  3. 


Kussia. 


Boute  17. — Nikiia. 


303 


7. — Yalta  to  Aluslda. 

From  Yalta  to  Alushta  the  distance 
is  45  V.  througli  a  most  beautiful 
country.  The  road  ascends*  at  first  up 
a  hill,  and  on  the  left  are  some  Cyclo- 
pean remains,  the  stones  of  which  have 
been  partly  removed  to  build  the  pier 
at  Y^dta.  At  the  top  of  the  hill  is  the 
ch.  of  Mdssiuidta,  rebuilt  by  Prince 
Woronzoff,  in  tlie  Doric  style,  on  the 
ruins  of  an  ancient  chapel,  famous  for 
its  spring  of  water,  which  bubbled 
forth  beneath  the  altar.  The  spring 
still  follows  its  ancient  course  undis- 
turbed, and  escapes  from  the  ch.  by  an 
arch  in  the  wall ;  and  here  the  weary 
traveller  may  refresh  himself  with  a 
cool  draught,  and  rest  under  the  fine 
trees  which  surround  the  ch.,  among 
which  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
venerable  oaks  on  the  southern  coast. 

The  cdate  of  Massandra  belongs  to 
Prince  W<jronzoff,  whose  mansion  will 
be  seen  from  the  road.  The  park  is 
very  pretty,  and  the  extensive  vine- 
yards produce  the  famous  wine  which 
we  have  mentioned  at  Yalta,  and  which 
is  here  stored  in  extensive  cellars.  The 
hot-houses  are  full  of  exotic  plants. 
Adjoining  Massanch-a  is  another  estate 
called  Miujaratch,  which  also  produces 
an  excellent  wine  of  the  same  name ; 
twenty  years  ago  a  wilderness,  but  now 
covered  with  beautiful  gardens  and 
villas,  the  land  having  been  parcelled 
out  and  sold  in  small  lots  to  a  number 
of  wealthy  colonists,  who  form  an 
agreeable  little  society  of  their  own. 

About  3  m.  further  on  isNiKiTA,  where 
are  the  Lnperial  Botanical  Gardens,  a 
va.st  establishment  for  experiments  on 
acclimatization,  and  practical  studies 
on  the  plants  and  trees  which  might  be 
profitably  introduced  into  the  Crimea. 
It  is  well  worthy  of  inspection,  for 
every  possible  variety  of  tree  and 
plant  adapted  to  the  climate  is  to  be 
found  there.  Even  the  distant  Hima- 
layas have  paid  their  tribute.  The 
collection  of  vines  is  perhaps  the 
largest  and  most  perfect  in  the  world  : 
it  was  made  for  an  American  mcrciiant 
in  the  touth  of   France,  but  subse- 


quently purchased  by  the  Russian 
Government  and  transferred  to  the 
Crimea.  There  are  upwards  of  300 
sorts;  the  black  and  white  ISluscats, 
and  the  Isabelle,  are  the  best.  The  tra- 
veller should  ask  to  see  a  peculiar  grape 
which  is  black  and  white,  and  therefore 
called  the  Harlequin.  The  soil,  a.spect, 
and  climate  of  this  coast  are  so  favour- 
able to  the  cultivation  of  the  vine,  that 
every  kind  of  wine  may  be  made  here  ; 
and  where  quality,  not  quantity,  is 
made  the  object  of  attainment,  the  wine 
is  excellent.  A  wine  that  has  the  body 
of  gootl  French  claret,  with  the  flavour 
and  colour  of  port,  is  very  good  ;  also 
the  sweet  wines,  Malaga,  Lunel,  &c. 
The  vine-dressers  are  generally  French 
or  German.  In  the  garden  at  Nikita 
is  a  curious  ruin  of  the  vegetable  king- 
dom, consisting  of  the  decayed  and 
mouldering  trunks  of  some  olive-trees 
which  flourished  here  in  the  time  of  the 
Genoese.  This  tree,  though  it  grows, 
does  not  succeed  here,  l)earing  fruit 
but  rarely,  and  of  an  inferior  quality. 

A  little  beyond  Cape  Nikita  and  its 
garden  is  the  mountain  of  St.  Daniel^ 
belonging  to  Prince  Woronzoti",  where  a 
kind  of  champagne,  and  a  very  excel- 
lent white  wine  called  Ai  Dainil,  are 
produced.  Passing  this,  the  traveller 
will  enter  the  Valley  of  Urzuf  the 
Gorzubita  of  ancient  times,  where  the 
Emperor  Justinian  built  a  castle,  the 
walls  and  towers  of  which  still  crown 
an  immense  rock  on  one  side  of  the 
valley.  The  part  built  by  Justinian  is 
easily  distinguished  from  a  second  sys- 
tem of  defence  round  it,  which  appears 
to  be  Genoese,  on  the  walls  of  which 
Pallas,  in  1704,  saw  embrasures  for 
cannon  that  have  since  disappeared. 
The  country  here  is  still  extremely 
rich,  and  the  view  from  the  ruins  mag- 
nificent. Enormous  walnut-trees,  fig- 
trees,  and  poplars  form  labyrinths  of 
verdure,  and  here  is  situated  the  re- 
treat which  the  Duke  de  Richelieu, 
the  second  founder  of  Odessa,  created 
for  himself  among  the  wild  Tartar 
population,  when  as  yet  there  was  no 
road  on  the  coast.  This  was  the  fiist 
of  the  modern  Russian  attempts  at 
colonization  on  the  coast,  and  the 
duke  bought  the  estate  iu  1817,  with 


304 


Boiite  17. — Nil'ita, 


Sect.  II. 


Eussia. 


Boute  17. — Aluslita, 


305 


rights  upon  the  village  of  Urziif,  for 
VIOL  Vj)  to  1825  this  and  Kutchuk 
Lambat,  and  Nikita  were  the  only 
Eiuopean  establishments  in  this  now 
faijhionable  locality. 

A  mole  and  a  tower  are  still  visible 
defending  the  little  bay  of  Urzuf.  The 
eastern  side  of  it  is  formed  by  the 
mountain  of  Ai-Udagh,  which  juts  out 
into  the  sea  to  the  height  of  about 
1800  ft.,  presenting  a  precipice  on  the 
side  of  Urzuf,  and  only  to  be  ascended 
from  the  village  of  Parthenite,  on  the 
opposite  side.  On  the  summit  are  the 
remains  of  an  ancient  castle,  the  walls 
of  which  are  composed  of  enormous 
blocks  of  stone  without  cement.  Tiie 
fortifications  are  in  a  large  semicircle, 
the  diameter  wall  of  which  is  about 
700  ft.  in  length,  and  the  thickness  of 
the  walls  about  5  ft.  Where  the  wall 
can  be  approached  from  the  land,  13 
towers  defend  it,  but  on  the  side  of  the 
precipice  there  are  none. 

In  looking  at  the  style  of  this  con- 
struction, it  is  impossible  to  recognise 
in  it  a  work  of  the  Byzantine  Greeks 
or  the  Genoese,  who  always  used  lime 
and  water,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  ruins 
of  Alushta,  Urzuf,  ISudak,  Theodosia, 
and  Balaclava.  These  ruins  are  built 
like  those  at  Little  Castele,  Demir- 
Kapu,  and  other  of  the  most  ancient 
ri'uiains  in  the  Crimea.  They  rcsenil)lt; 
the  Cyclopean  walls  of  Kimmericum 
(Opuk),  and  the  tumuli  of  the  Gold 
^lountaiu  near  Keiich,  and  Dubois 
attributes  tht-m  to  the  Tauri  and  the 
Tauro-Scythians. 

This  little  fortress  has  not  been  in- 
habited since  1475,  that  is  to  say,  since 
the  destruction  of  the  Genoese  power 
in  the  Crimea,  but  there  is  no  reason 
to  think  that  it  was  ever  inhabited  by 
the  Genoese  or  the  Greeks.  There  is 
no  trace  of  temi)le  or  other  edifice 
within  it,  and  the  only  remains  of  such 
are  to  be  found  immediately  on  arriv- 
ing at  the  top  of  the  mountain,  where, 
nestled  among  some  large  trees,  rise 
the  ruins  of  a  monastery  dedicated  to 
St.  Constantino  and  St.  Helen.  It  im- 
mediately overlooked  the  village  of 
Parthenite' ;  and  Dubois,  who  imagines 
that  it  occupied  the  site  of  the  ancient 
temple  of  the  Tauric  Diana,   thinks 


that  this  would  be  a  most  interesting 
place  to  commence  some  excavations. 
He  believes  that,  while  the  temple  at 
Cape  St.  George,  in  the  Kliersonese, 
was  also  dedicated  to  the  goddess,  this 
one  of  Ai-Udagh  was  the  particular 
temple  where  Iphigenia  exercised  her 
cruel  mission :  that  it  was  here  that 
Orestes  and  Pylades  appeared  to  her ; 
hence  the  bodies  of  the  victims  were 
preeipitiited  from  the  top  of  the  rock 
into  the  sea  below ;  hence  she  gazed 
over  the  wide  horizon,  and  watched  for 
the  vessels  of  her  victims. 

The  Tartar  village  of  Parthenite,  or 
the  Village  of  the  Virgin,  alluded  to 
by  the  ancients,  still  stands  at  the  foot 
of  the  promontory  of  the  same  name. 
It  lies  in  a  beautiful  valley,  and  a 
sandy  biach  enabks  the  inhab.  still, 
as  in  the  Homeric  times,  to  draw  their 
barks  upon  the  land.  Here  is  a  cele- 
brated walnut-tree  of  enormous  size, 
surrounded  by  benches,  under  the 
shade  of  which  the  Prince  de  Ligne 
wrote  a  letter  to  the  Empress  Cathe- 
rine, describing  to  her  his  astonish- 
ment at  the  extraordinary  beauty  of 
the  southern  coast. 

The  road  from  Xikita  is  carried  along 
at  a  height  of  1000  ft.  above  the  sea, 
with  magnificent  rang<'s  of  mountains, 
some  of  which  are  1000  ft.  in  altitude, 
towering  up  inland.  Descending  then 
into  the  lovely  valleys  of  Biiyuk  Lam- 
bat and  Kutchuk  Lambat,  or  the 
Great  and  Little  Lambat, — the  old 
(ireek  name  of  the  place,  meaning  the 
town  of  the  Lamps,  Lampndon, — the 
traveller  will  see  the  village  of  Little 
Lambiit  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  de- 
fended from  the  E.  by  the  promontory 
Plaka.  Beyond  the  two  Lambats, 
says  Mr.  H.  D.  Seymour  (who,  we  can- 
not too  frequently  rej)eat,  has  colh'cted 
most  of  this  information,  and  whom  wo 
have  in  many  parts  quoted  in  extenso), 
the  ground  is  covered  with  ruins  of 
every  age,  from  the  most  early  at 
Buyuk  Lambat  to  the  most  recent  on 
the'  sea-shore.  The  river  Alma  rises 
on  the  side  of  the  Tauric  chain,  exactly 
opposite  to  the  plateau  on  which  Great 
I^ambat  is  situated. 

After  passing  Cape  Plaka,  between 
Great  Lambat  and  the  sea-shore,  one  of 


'i  k 


the  most  extraordinary  spectacles  that 
can  be  witnessed  presents  itself  to  the 
traveller.  There  suddenly  appears  a 
place  which  is  called  by  the  mo- 
dems the  Chaos  and  the  Tartars 
Sunenkaia.  It  is  a  vast  assemblage 
of  enormous  masses  of  rock,  as  large  as 
houses  and  as  high  as  towers,  composed 
of  fetid  black  limestone,  thrown  toge- 
ther in  confusion,  and  sometimes  lean- 
ing against  one  another,  somewhat  in 
the  same  manner  as  at  ithe  Trossachs 
in  Scotland.  This  great  amphitlientre 
of  confusion  goes  on  widennig  for  a 
mile  and  a  half  inland,  up  to  Buyuk 
Lambat ;  and  crossing  the  high  road, 
and  going  up  towards  the  mountains, 
a  new  Chaos  is  met  with,  composed  of 
rocks  of  ophitic  granite  instead  of  the 
limestone.  From  the  highest  point  of 
the  mountain  all  through  the  Chaos 
down  to  the  sea-shore  the  ground  is 
covered  with  ancient  ruins,  nnd  the 
l>lace  was  evidently  chosen  by  the 
barbarous  population  of  ancient  times, 
as  one  secure  from  attack  on  account 
of  the  dilKcult  nature  of  the  country. 
The  best  situation  for  observing  these 
interesting  phenomena,  the  solution  of 
which  lies  in  the  enormous  mouth 
of  a  crater  above  the  second  chaos,  is 
INIount  Aithidor,  or  the  Hill  of  St. 
Theodore,  so  called  from  the  ruins  of  a 
Greek  ch.  on  the  summit. 

Further  on,  Mount  Castele  completely 
bars  all  passage  along  the  coast,  and 
the  road  is  carried  on  between  it  and 
the  main  chain,  which  the  Tartars  call 
Deniir  Kapii,  or  the  Gate  of  Iron  ;  and, 
according  to  their  usual  system,  the 
Tauri  had  here  established  one  of 
their  fortresses,  in  the  narrowest  part 
of  the  gorge,  to  defend  their  settlement 
at  Lambat.  Three  \valls  of  granite 
blocks  formed  the  enceinte;  2,  about 
200  paces  long,  run  from  the  perpen- 
dicular Hanks  of  Mount  Castele,  and 
meet  a  third,  nearly  at  right  angles, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  val- 
ley. Everything  here  shows  the  in- 
fancy of  art,  and  recalls  the  Cyclopean 
constructions  of  Greece,  or  even  the 
Gnulish  camps  of  France  and  Switzer- 
land. 

On  the  eastern  side  of  the  "  Castele," 
the  only  remains  of  the   Greeks  or 


Genoese  are  the  foundations  of  a  little 
edifice  outside  the  fort,  in  the  midst  of 
some  trees,  looking  towards  Alushta. 

The  Tauri  are  probably  the  builders 
of  a  second  fortress  much  more  con- 
siderable than  the  first,  and  occupying 
a  part  of  the  sunmiit  of  the  mountain. 
A  wall,  constructed  without  cement, 
here  runs  from  N.  to  S..  from  one  pre- 
cipice to  another,  and  encloses  nume- 
rous traces  of  habitations  and  fragments 
of  pottery.  The  traveller,  after  pass- 
ing the  gorge,  soon  finds  himself  at 
the  top  of  the  descent  leading  to 
Alushta,  with  the  town  placed  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  valley.  Here  ends 
the  really  fine  scenery  of  the  southern- 
coast,  wliich  extends  over  a  distance  of 
about  40  m.  from  Phoros  (Baidar  Gate) 
to  Alushta. 

Alushta,  42  v.  from  Yalta,  and  44 
V.  S.E.  from  Simpheropol.      Pop.  800. 

Accommodation. — A  night  may  very 
well  be  passed  in  one  of  the  Tartar 
houses,  which  are  all  very  clean.  The 
fare  will,  however,  be  simple. 

History,  dx.  —  The  history  of  this 
Tartar  village  or  townlet.  so  beautifully 
placed  on  the  sloping  side  of  a  gentle 
elevation,  may  be  read  in  the  ruins  of 
the  old  fortress  of  Aluston,  built  by 
Justinian  in  the  6th  centy.  before 
Christ.  The  remains  of  the  wall,  6  ft. 
in  thickness,  and  of  3  towers,  stand 
on  a  little  hill  near  the  sea-shore.  Some 
remains  may  also  be  seen  of  Greek 
houses  and  chs.  placed  on  the  most 
elevated  positions.  The  chs.  must 
have  been  nearlv  as  large  as  those  of 
Khersonesus,  and  in  the  principal  one 
]Mr.  Dubois  traced  a  semicircular  apse, 
which  showed  that  either  a  bishop  or 
at  least  a  priest  of  high  rank  presided 
over  the  clergy  attached  to  it. 

The  vineyards  of  Alushta,  in  which 
are  about  900,000  vines,  protected  from 
N.  winds  by  the  giant  Tchatyr  Dagli, 
are  among  the  best  in  the  Crimea,  and 
cover,  together  with  rich  orchards,  the 
whole  of  the  valley,  which  is  a  con- 
tinuation of  one  of  the  defiles  of  the 
Tauri  chain.  Vessels  cast  anchor  in 
the  roads,  where  the  depth  is  consider- 
able, and  load  fruit  and  wine. 

There  are  2  mosques  and  a  Russian 


306 


Boute  17. — Tchatyr  Dagh  —  ShnpheropoL  Sect.  II. 


Eiissia.  Boute  17. — Slmjjheropol  —  Karasu-Bazar, 


307 


ch.   in  Aluslita;    also  a  Quarantine 
Station. 


8. — Aluslita  to  Simpheropol,  and  ascent 
of  the  Tchatijr  Dagh. 

The  traveller  bound  to  Simpheropol 
byway  of  the  Tchatyr  Da<^h  will  have 
the  coast  at  Aluslita  and  proceed  north- 
wards for  28  versts,  wlien  he  will  reach 
the  Tartar  village  of  Tautshan  Bazaar. 
Here  he  should  halt  for  the  night,  and 
make  arrangements  for  the  ascent  of 
the  mountain  next  day.  There  is  no 
inn  at  Tautshan  Bazaar,  but  the  posit- 
liouse  presents  a  sofa ;  or,  if  that  Ix; 
objectionable,  there  will  be  no  ditliculty 
in  finding  some  hospitable  Tartar  to 
afford  shelter  for  tlie  night.  A  stock 
of  provisions  should  always  be  laid  in 
when  a  halt  is  to  l^e  made  between 
any  of  the  principal  towns;  l>ut  bread, 
cheese,  curds  and  whey,  and  a  few 
eggs,  are  generally  to  be  obtained 
everywhere  at  a  very  moderate  charge. 
Horses  and  guides  can  be  procured  at 
this  village,  and  the  ascent  will  take 
about  3  hours. 

The  only  object  of  interest  near 
Tautshan  Bazaar  is  Kntuznfs  Foun- 
tain. In  repulsing  the  Turks,  who  at- 
tempted to  land  here  from  their  galleys 
in  1774,  the  General  was  shot  through 
the  head.  The  bullet  entered  near  his 
riglit  ear  and  came  out  below  the  left 
temple.  He  only  lost  an  eye,  and  lived 
till  1813.  The  fountain  was  erected 
in  his  honour. 

Tchatyr  Dagh  (5125  ft.)  is  the 
highest  mountain  in  the  Crimea,  and 
is  seen  from  all  parts  of  the  peninsula. 
Tlie  view  from  its  sunnnit  is  most 
beautiful.  All  around  it,  in  the  country 
within  the  iiilluence  of  the  Tauric 
chain  of  mountains,  is  a  succession  of 
verdant  hills  and  valleys,  which  seem 
to  be  a  great  island  surrounded  by  two 
oceans,  tliat  of  the  sea  on  the  S.,  and  ^ 
that  of  the  Steppes  on  the  N.,  so  flat 
and  uniform  do  the  latter  appear  to  be.  | 
Tchatyr  Dagh  means  tent-mountain 
in  Tartar,  and  this  name  has  been 
.given  to  it  because  of  its  form,  the 
last  700  ft.  of  which  rise  like  a  large 


oblong  tent,  which  in  ancient  times 
procured  it  the  name  of  Mount  Tra- 
pczus. 

While  visiting  the  mountain,  the 
stalactite  caves  of  Ful  Kuha  and 
Kisil  Kuha  should  not  be  omitted. 
They  are  of  great  extent,  and,  though 
somewhat  dillicult  of  access,  will  amply 
rei)ay  the  time  and  trouble  devoted  to 
them.  The  former  contains  an  im- 
mense number  of  human  bones,  the 
remains  of  the  unfortunate  Genoese 
who  were  smoked  to  death  there  by 
the  Tartars.  After  descending  the 
mountain,  the  traveller,  if  not  too  fa- 
tigued, must  make  the  l)est  of  his  way 
to  the  post  station,  and  continue  his 
journey  to — 

SiMrHEROi'OL,  44  V.  from  Aluslita, 
on  river  Salghir.     Pop.  17.000. 

Ilotd,  kept  l)y  Schnyders,  very  good ; 
charges  about  the  same  as  at  Sevas- 
tf)pol. 

Hidory,  &c. — The  site  now  occupied 
by  Simi)JierojKtl  must  have  been  popu- 
lati'd  in  the  remotest  times,  for  many 
traces  of  ancient  fortifications  and 
buildings  are  to  be  found  not  far  from 
the  Aluslita  road,  and  almost  along- 
side of  the  t<nvn.  at  a  place  called  by 
the  Tartars  "  Kermeiichik,"  or  little 
fortress.  BLireniberg,  an  arch{e()h)gist 
of  Odessa,  arrived  at  the  conclusion 
that  the  ruins  are  those  of  the  fortress  of 
Neaj)olis,  built  by  the  Tauro-Scythian 
King  Skiluros  and  his  sons  about  a 
centy.  before  Christ;  and  although 
this  supiM)sition  has  been  disputed  by 
others,  the  subsequent  discovery  of 
bas-reliefs  and  Cireek  inscriptions, 
mentioning  the  name  of  Skiluros, 
would  seem  to  confirm  the  opinion  of 
BlaremVicrg.  Later  still,  remains  of 
amphora)  were  dug  uj)  near  Simj)he- 
roiMtl  with  the  mark  '•  Neapf)lis"  upon 
some  of  them,  liountl,  funnel-shaped 
holes  have  likewise  been  laid  bare  in 
the  rock,  and  found  to  contain,  some 
bones,  others  coals,  and  even  grains  of 
wheat.  Tumuli  and  other  very  ancient 
remains  are  also  to  be  found  on  the 
N.W.  side  of  Simpheropol  and  along 
the  river  Salghir.  it  is  impossible  to 
say  when  the  ancient  town  was  de- 
stroyetl,   although    tl.c    discovery    of 


Roman  coins  has  proved  that  it  was 
in  existence  in  the  3rd  centy.  after 
Christ. 

During  the  Tartar  Khanate,  Sim- 
pheropol was  the  site  of  a  village  called 
Ak-Mechet,  or  White  Mosque.  Tradi- 
tion says  it  dated  from  the  early  jiart 
of  the  IGth  centy.,  when  Ibrahim-bey, 
having  received  from  the  Crimean 
Khan  some  lands  on  the  Salghir  as  a 
recompense  for  a  successful  expedition 
into  liussia,  built  here  a  mosque  and  a 
house.  In  the  17tli  centy.  the  village 
had  grown  to  considerable  importance, 
for  it  had  become  the  residence  of  the 
Kalga-Sultan,  or  commander-in-chief 
of  the  Khan's  troops,  who  was  always 
a  near  relative;  of  the  Khan,  and  fre- 
quently succeeded  him.  As  the  re- 
sidence of  the  Kalga,  it  also  bore 
the  name  of  Sultan-Sarai  or  Sultan's 
Palace. 

On  the  3rd  (15th)  July,  173G,  Ak- 
Mechet  was  entered  by  the  Russian 
troops  under  Generals  Izmailof  and 
Biren,  but  the  inhabitants  had  fled 
two  days  previously.  Their  hamlet, 
then  consisting  of  1800  houses,  was 
thereupon  burnt  down,  after  the  re- 
moval of  all  the  provisions  found  in  it. 
It  was  gradually  rebuilt,  and,  in  1784, 
when  tlie  Crimea  was  annexed  to 
liussia,  made  the  chief  town  of  the 
Taurida  ]irovince  under  the  Greek 
name  of  Simpheropol,  or  "Gathering 
Town,"  from  the  great  diversity  of  its 
l)opulation. 

Like  all  Russian  provincial  towns, 
Simpheropol  consists  of  wide,  dusty 
streets,  only  partially  paved,  and  lined 
with  large  houses,  each  surrounded 
by  its  own  court  and  garden.  The 
Tartars  confine'  themselves  to  a  quarter 
of  the  city  entirely  apart  from  the 
rest  of  the  inhabitants.  It  is,  however, 
rather  prettily  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Salghir,  which,  like  all  the 
streams  of  the  peninsula,  is  only  a 
small  brook  in  summer,  but  often 
])ecomes  a  foaming  torrent  in  winter. 
The  immediate  environs  are  very  beau- 
tiful, but  there  is  not  much  to  detain 
the  traveller  in  the  town.  An  agree- 
able excursion  may  be  made  up  the 
valley  of  the  little  Salghir,  which  runs 
on  the  E.,  parallel  to  the  river  on  which 


Simpheropol  stands.  After  passing  the 
village  of  INIamak,  a  short  distance  from 
Simpheropol,  and  then  that  of  Kisil- 
koba,  shaded  by  high  trees  and  with  a 
rivulet  running  through  it,  the  tra- 
veller will  come  to  a  very  steep  ascent 
among  the  rocks,  where  numberless 
fragments  of  pottery  mark  the  spot  as 
once  having  been  inhabited.  Ascend- 
ing the  sombre  and  narrow  glen,  he 
will  arrive  on  the  terrace,  at  the  back 
of  which  the  Salghir  streams  forth 
from  subterranean  canals.  The  stream 
appears  to  have  been  several  times 
changed,  for  above  its  present  place 
of  exit  there  are  two  stages  of  empty 
canals,  forming  a  series  of  majestic 
grottoes.  The  least  elevated,  but 
the  most  beautiful,  rises  above  the  cas- 
cade, with  a  fine  entrance  alx)ut  20  ft. 
high.  At  half  the  depth  of  the  cavern 
there  is  a  passage  of  rising  ground, 
which  leads  into  other  canals  of  such 
an  extent,  that  a  French  gentleman, 
having  taken  provisions  and  lights, 
walked  for  a  whole  day  with  his  guide 
without  reaching  the  extremity.  The 
length  of  these  caverns,  as  far  as  they 
are  generally  followed,  is  700  ft.,  and 
supposing,  says  Mr.  H.  D.  Seymour, 
that  the  dislocation  of  the  strata 
which  formed  them  dates  from  the 
raising  up  of  the  Jurassic  island  of 
the  Crimea,  fossil  bones  might  perhaps 
be  found  here  of  great  importance. 


9. — Simpheropol  to  Theodosia,  via  Ka- 
rasu-Bazar and  Stary-Krim. 

From  Simpheropol  to  Karasu-Bazar 
the  road  is  very  uninteresting,  and 
runs  over  a  chalky,  undulating  ground 
with  little  cultivation  and  few  trees ; 
half  way  is  the  post-station  of  Konia, 
near  which  are  two  large  tumuli. 

Karasu- Bazar,  on  Karasu  and  Tunas 
rivers.  Pop.  14,000.  41  v.  from  Sim- 
pheropol. 

Hotels :  there  are  three  Tartar  inns, 
and  fiftv  caravanserais  and  coffee- 
houses.  Travellers  will  be  recom- 
mended to  the  best  inn  by  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  Hotel  at  Simpheropol. 

History,  dc. — Although  the  present 


-308 


Boute  17. — Karasu-Bazar  —  Slary, 


Sect.  II. 


town  undoubtedly  owes  its  origin  to 
the  Tartars,  some  arcliaBologists  are  of 
opinion  that  its  site  was  more  anciently 
occupied  by  the  Greek  town  of  Maurou- 
Castron.  The  caves  in  tlie  rock  of 
Ak-Kaya,  above  the  town,  likewise 
point  to  great  antiquity.  Under  the 
rule  of  the  Tartars,  Karasu-Bazar,  like 
Simpheropol,  was  the  residence  of  a 
KaJga.  Many  Christiaus  and  Jews 
dwelt  in  it  with  the  Tartars,  who  how- 
ever, in  IGOG,  destroyed  two  of  the 
churclies,  and  would  Jiave  pulled  down 
the  synagogue  had  not  the  Jews  paid 
a  heavy  i-ansom  for  it.  AVhen  the 
Russians  ravaged  Bakhchisarai,  in 
173G,  Khan  Feta-rihiroi  removed  liis 
capital  to  Karasu-Bazar,  which,  liow- 
ever,  on  the  25tli  July  (Gth  August), 
1737,  met  with  the  same  fate  at  the 
liands  of  General  Douglas,  acting  under 
tlie  orders  of  Field-marshal  Lassy. 
The  town  surrendered  without  oft'er- 
ing  any  opposition,  but  it  was  never- 
theless plundered  and  reduced  to  ashes. 
As  the  inhabitants  had  previously  tied 
in  great  haste,  leaving  nearly  all  their 
treasures  behind  them,  the  loot  was 
enormous.  In  1772,  when  the  Russians 
occupied  the  Crimea,  they  made  it  the 
basis  of  their  diplomatic  intrigues. 
They  induced  the  Tartars  to  elect 
Bhagni-Ghirei  Sultan  as  their  Khan 
in  lieu  of  Selim-Cihirei,  who  had  been 
forced  to  take  refuge  at  Constantinople. 
Naturally,  the  new  Klian  threw  olF 
the  old  allegiance  of  his  race  to  the 
Turks,  and  became  a  vassal  of  Russia. 
In  1784  Karasu-Bazar  became  for  a 
short  time  the  seat  of  the  Russian  ad- 
ministration of  the  Crimea,  and  in 
1787  it  was  made  a  depot  for  the  arms 
which  were  taken  from  the  Tartars. 

It  is  now  one  of  the  most  thriving 
industrial  and  commercial  towns  in 
the  peninsula,  thanks,  mainly,  to  the 
Armenian  merchants  who  settled 
among  its  otherwise  exclusively  Tartar 
population.  Its  position  on  the  high 
road  from  Simpheropol  to  Kertch  and 
Theodosia  has  likewise  contributed 
much  towards  its  prosperity.  The 
neighbouring  country  is  very  fertile, 
and  the  vineyards  and  orchards,  shel- 
tered from  the  N.  by  the  white  peak  of 
Ak-Kaya,  produce  wine  and  fruit  in 


abundance.  Tallow,  wool,  and  tides 
are  likewise  considerable  artich^s  of 
export.  The  inhabitants  are  skilful 
in  the  art  of  making  shoes,  saddles, 
and  shaggy  felt  cloaks;  and  the  town 
was  once  celebrated  fc^r  its  cutlery. 

The  only  i)ublic  editices  of  any  im- 
portance are  the  khans  or  caravan- 
sarais,  where  merchants  rest  on  their 
journeys,  and  of  these  there  are  nearly 
tifty.  The  largest,  calle«l  the  Tache- 
khan,  was  built  in  1G50  by  Setir  Ghazi 
Atehein,  Minister  of  Mehmet  Ghirey, 
and  is  an  immense  square  edifice,  pre- 
senting outside  only  four  blank  walls, 
but  in  the  inside  there  is  a  large  court, 
occupied  with  rooms  for  travellers,  and 
a  lunnber  of  shops.  The  khan  of  the 
Armenians  contrasts  favourably  with 
the  otliers  in  point  of  luxury  and  com- 
tbrt. 

There  are  24  mosques  in  Karasu- 
Bazar,  but  none  of  them  remarkable 
for  beauty;  also  a  Catholic  ch.,  2 
Greek  chs.,  an  Armenian  ch.,  and 
several  synagogues.  The liusi^io-li nek 
ch.  deserves  a  visit :  it  is  built  in  the 
shape  of  a  cross,  with  a  dome  which 
lights  the  centre.  The  cemeteries 
round  the  town  are  of  enormous  extent, 
and  from  that  of  the  Greeks  there  is 
an  admirable  view  of  the  towu,  with 
its  red-tiled  houses,  winding  streets, 
and  shady  gardens. 

In  the  neighbourhoo<l  of  Karasu- 
Bazar  are  some  flourishing  German 
colonies,  which,  like  those  in  other 
parts  of  the  Russian  empire,  form  a 
striking  contrast  to  the  backwardness 
in  agriculture  of  the  native  popula- 
tion. 

The  domains  of  the  Shirin  family, 
the  second  in  rank  after  that  of  the 
Ghireys,  begin  at  Karasu-Bazar,  and 
extend  to  Kertch.  The  traveller  will 
pass  the  Shirimlmya  Gora,  or  hill  of 
the  Shirins,  on  which  meetings  of  their 
dependants  used  to  be  held  when  they 
disapproved  of  the  conduct  of  the 
khans. 

A  drive  of  about  17  m.  will  bring 
the  traveller  to 

Stary  or  EsKi  Ivrbi,  CG  v.  from 
Simpheropol,  and  25  v.  from  Karasu- 
Bazar,  on  river  Churuk-su.    Pop.  1000. 


Eussia. 


Boute  17. — Stary —  TJieodosia. 


309 


Hisfortj,  dc — This  was  the  most 
ancient  capital  of  the  Tartars  after 
their  conquest  of  the  Crimea.  It  is 
supposed  to  have  been  the  site  of 
ancient  Kimmerion  or  Krimni ;  and 
some  ruins  in  the  neighbourhood,  and 
particularly  those  of  some  fortilications 
on  the  top  of  Oglii-oba,  would  seem  to 
favour  this  supposition.  Its  import- 
ance as  a  town  is,  however,  to  be  dated 
from  the  midtlle  ages.  In  1252  Baty- 
Khan,  who  conquered  Russia,  built 
here  a  magnificent  palace,  and  Krim 
began  to  spread  and  to  grow  rich  by 
commerce,  the  i)eninsula  itself  taking 
the  name  of  the  town.  It  was  also  a 
great  slave-market,  and  Eastern  writers 
affirm  that  "  it  is  scarcely  possible  to 
ride  round  the  town  on  a  good  horse  in 
half  a  dav."  After  12G5  some  Turks 
came  over  to  Krim  from  Dobrudja, 
under  the  leadership  of  Sadii-Saltuk, 
wlio  is  considered  a  saint  by  the  Ma- 
homedans.  In  1287  the  Sultixn  of 
Egypt  caused  a  magnificent  mosque  to 
l)e  built  here  of  marble  and  porphyry 
at  his  own  expense.  Another  hand- 
some mosque  was  built  in  1314.  In 
the  14th  centy.the  (ihireys  established 
their  capital  at  Krim,  which  began  to 
fall  when  the  residence  was  removed 
to  Bakhchisarai.  The  Tartar  governors 
of  Krim  made  treaties  with  the 
Genoese  Consuls  of  Kafla.  In  1434 
the  Genoese  tried  to  take  possession 
of  the  city,  but  were  driven  back.  In 
1478,  however,  it  was  taken  and  sacked 
l-»y  Seid  Ahmet,  Khan  of  the  Golden 
Horde,  whose  dominions  Meugli-Ghirey 
had  invaded.  Its  decadence  was  com- 
]dete  at  the  end  of  the  IGth  centy. 
The  Russians  called  it  Leucopol  for 
a  short  time,  but  its  old  name  was 
restored  when  the  seat  of  administra- 
tion was  removed  to  Simpheropol. 

It  is  now  comparatively  deserted, 
and  scarce  any  traces  remain  of  the 
great  city  where  tlie  rich  camvans  of 
olden  times  used  to  come  laden  with 
all  the  j>recious  products  of  Asia.  The 
tmces  of  the  pavements  of  the  streets 
may  be  observed  in  the  fields  that  now 
occupy  its  site.  The  ruins  of  five 
mosques  and  large  vaulted  baths  re- 
main; and  one  Greek  ch.  and  two 
mosques  are  still  used  for  religious 


purposes,  one  of  them  being  the  ancient 
place  of  worship.  The  Armenians, 
who  constitute  nearly  half  the  popu- 
lation, have  a  ch.,  as  well  as  a  con- 
vent, built  in  1340,  and  dedicated  to 
St.  George.  It  stands  on  the  neigh- 
bouring hill  of  Kara-su,  which  is  the 
object  of  numerous  pilgrimages. 

The  best  view  of  the  town  is  from 
the  hill  of  Aghermish,  which  embraces 
the  whole  valley,  once  occupied  by 
buildings,  and  on  one  side  may  1x3 
traced  the  remains  of  the  ancient  wall, 
flanked  with  towers,  which  surrounded 
the  city,  and  included  an  enormous 
cemetery,  in  which  tombs  may  still  be 
seen  of  every  variety  of  form. 

Passing  now  over  a  flat,  treeless,  and 
arid  steppe,  the  traveller  will  arrive  at 

Theodosia,  the  ancient  Kafla,  23  v. 
from  Stary-Krim,  on  river  Chui-uk-su. 
Pop.  9000. 

Steamers  leave  twice  a  week  both  for 
Kertch  and  for  Odessa,  stopping  at 
several  ports. 

Ht'storij,  &c. — It  has  been  authen- 
tically ascertained  that  the  present 
town  of  Theodosia  was  originally 
founded  by  Milesian-Greeks,  who  either 
came  direct  from  Miletus,  or  from  the 
neighbouring  colony  of  Panticapseum, 
500  years  before  Christ.  The  fertility 
of  the  surrounding  country,  which  was 
at  one  time  the  principal  granary  of 
ancient  Greece,  probably  caused  the 
town  to  be  called  Theodosia  or  God's 
Gift.  *  By  the  Tauro-Scythians  it  was 
for  some  time  called  Ardavda,  or  the 
*'  City  of  the  Seven  Gods."  At  the  be- 
ginning of  the  3rd  centy.  before  Christ 
it  was  incorporated  with  the  kingdom 
of  Bosporus  (Kertch),  and  together 
with  the  latter  was  later  annexed  to 
the  Roman  empire.  Its  destruction 
was  eflected  in  the  middle  of  the  2nd 
centy.  after  Christ,  at  the  beginning 
of  the  "great  migration  of  peoples." 
For  a  period  of  ten  centuries  after,  the 
plough  passed  over  the  site  of  Theo- 
dosia, and  it  is  barely  mentioned  by 
contemporaneous  historians. 
At  last,  in  the  13th  centy.,  the  Genoese 
purchased  from  Khan  Oran  Timur 
the  deserted  territory  of  Theodosia,  and 
built  on  it  a  town  which  they  called 


310 


BoiUe  17,— Kaffa. 


Sect.  II. 


KafFa.  The  date  of  its  foundation  is 
between  1263  and  12G7.  The  Vene- 
tians, jealous  of  their  rivals,  surprised 
Katfa  with  a  fleet  of  20  galleys,  and 
utterly  destroyed  the  town.  The 
Genoese,  liowever,  soon  returned,  and, 
assisted  by  a  colony  of  Arm(.'nians,  re- 
built the  town,  and  extended  its  com- 
merce to  such  an  extent  tliat  the 
Italians  bciran  to  call  the  Crimean 
jieninsula  "  Isola  di  Caft'a."  They  at 
the  same  time  enlar;T;ed  their  dominion 
on  the  coast,  and  built  many  other 
fortresses,  but  Kafta  was  the  })rincij)al 
seat  of  their  power,  and  consi^^ted  of  a 
ea.<fru)u  hurgus,  nnd  antihurtjiy  each  sur- 
rounded by  a  stone  wall.  At  Kaila 
the  Genoese  colonies  were  governed  by 
a  Consul,  annually  elected  by  the  Doge 
and  citizens  of  tho  metrojK)lis  :  but  he 
appears  to  have  been  subjected  to  a 
supreme  ruler,  or  Podesta,  who  resided 
at  Galata.  In  1318  Pope  John  XXII. 
erected  Kaffa  into  a  bishopric. 

A  war  having  broken  out  with  the 
Tartars  in  1343,  Djanibek,  Khan  of 
KilM'hak,  besieged  KalTa,  and  a  cru- 
sade was  i)reached  in  its  favour  by 
Clement  VI.  The  Genoese  were  vic- 
torious, but  the  danger  to  wliich  they 
had  been  exposed  made  them  feel  the 
necessity  of  a  formidable  system  of 
fortification.  Tlie  southern  ramparts 
and  })alisades  of  the  town  were  re- 
placeil  by  high  and  thick  walls,  flanketl 
with  towers,  and  surrounded  by  a 
dt^ep  ditch,  flnnked  with  masonry. 
These  magnificent  wraks,  of  which 
even  the  traveller  of  the  present  day 
may  admire  the  excellent  execution, 
were  commenced  in  1353  by  Godefrey 
di  Zoaglio,  and  finishe<l  in  138G  by 
Benedict  Grimaldi.  The  most  re- 
markable tower  of  the  enceinte,  the 
southern  one,  which  commands  the 
whole  town,  was  consecrated  to  the  me- 
mory of  Pope  Clement  VI.,  with  an 
inscription  relating  to  the  crusade 
preached  by  him  at  the  moment  the 
Tartars  were  besieging  the  colony.  In 
13G5  tlie  Genoese  conquered  the  Greek 
cx)lonies  of  Cembalon  (Balaclava),  and 
Soldaya  (Sudak),  which  were  then 
tributary  to  the  Khan  of  the  Tartars, 
and  in  1380  obtained  from  him  a 
grant  of  Gotliia,  or  all  the  sea-coast 


between  Balaclava  and  Sudak,  whicli 
was  inhabited  by  the  Chri.>5tians. 

The  history  of  Kaffa  is  so  interest- 
ing tiiat  we  cannot  avoid  makuig 
another  long  extract  from  Mr.  H.  D. 
Seymour's  work. 

Tlie  Genoese  colony  thus  arrived  in 
the  middle  of  the  lath  centy.  at  the 
zenith  of  its  glory  and  power,  wheu 
the  ca})ture  of  Constantinople  by  ]\Ia- 
homet  II.  isolated  it  from  the  mother 
city,  and  prejmred  the  way  for  its  en- 
tire destruction.  On  the  1st  Jimc, 
147'),  482  sail  of  galleys,  commanded 
by  the  grand  admiral  Akhmet  PasJia, 
apiK-ared  before  Kaffa,  and  some  hours 
afterwards  the  Genoese  town  saw  its 
walls  bombarded  by  the  fonnidablo 
artillery  of  the  Ottomans.  Tlu;  siego 
lasted  only  a  short  time,  and  a  largo 
jKirtion  of  the  enceinte,  raised  at  a 
time  when  artillery  was  unknown, 
gave  way;  breaches  were  multii)lied, 
and  on  the  Gth  of  June,  147."),  the  be- 
sieged surrendered  at  discretion,  after 
having  in  vain  attempted  to  obtain  a 
('ai)itulatiou.  Akhmet  Pasha  entered 
Kali'a,  irritiited  by  resistance,  and 
hostile  to  the  Christian  name.  After 
taking  possession  of  the  Considar 
I*alace,  he  disarmed  the  poj)ulation, 
levied  a  large  sum  of  money  on  the 
town,  and  seized  half  the  property  of 
the  inhabitants,  as  well  as  all  slaves 
of  lx>th  sexes.  Tlu;  Latin  Catholics 
wen;  then  embarked  on  board  the 
Turkish  fleet  and  carried  to  Constan- 
tino})le.  where  the  Sultan  established 
them  by  force  in  the  suburbs  of  his 
new  capital,  after  taking  1500  of  their 
male  children  to  incorporate  in  his 
guiirds. 

The  Turks  confided  the  govern- 
ment of  the  town  to  a  Pasha,  but  its 
revenues  were  paid  over  to  the  Khan 
of  the  Crunea.  In  the  middle  of  the 
17th  centy.  the  ancient  Genoese  city 
had  again  become  considerable.  In  1603 
Chardin  found  in  the  Bay  of  Kaffa 
more  than  400  ships.  The  town  was 
then  called  by  the  Turks  Kutchuk 
Stambul  (Little  Constantinople),  and 
bad  more  than  4000  houses,  and  above 
80,000  Inhab.  Merchants  from  IMos- 
cow  visited  it;  but  it  appears  that 
they  were  badly  treated,   and  some- 


Bussia. 


Boute  17. — Kaffa. 


311 


times  made  to  dig  ditches,  carry  stones, 
and  generally  to  work  in  repairing  the 
fortifications,  whicli  their  countrymen 
were  destined  later  to  destroy  so  ruth- 
lessly. 

In  1771,  after  a  ]>ombardment,  Kaffa 
was  taken  by  the  Russian  troops,  and 
in  1787  generously  raised  to  the  dig- 
nity of  district  town,  under  the  name 
of  Theodosia ;  but  while  on  the  one 
hand  the  Bussian  government  ap- 
pointed a  suffi*agan  bishop  to  Kaffa, 
and  erected  a  mint  and  a  custom- 
house, on  tho  other,  its  agents  were 
sufiered  to  connnit  acts  of  vandalism 
which  can  never  be  forgiven  or  for- 
gotten. As  at  Sudak,  the  erection  of 
barracks  was  the  signal  for  the  de- 
struction of  the  ancient  Genoese  monu- 
ments. Tlwrpvi'tements  of  tlie  ditches 
were  first  carried  awav,  and  then  the 
walls  themselves  disappeared.  The 
magnificent  towers  which  defended 
them  were  successively  thrown  down, 
and  at  this  day  there  exist  only  three 
remnants  of  the  remarkable  bastion 
christened  in  honour  of  Pope  Clement 
VI.  The  great  Turkish  l)aths,  an  ad- 
mirable monument  of  Oriental  archi- 
tecture, and  the  ancient  episcopal  ch. 
of  the  Genoese,  an  edifice  built  in  the 
14tli  centy.,  and  then  converted  into  a 
mosque  after  th(;  Tartar  conquest, 
met  witli  the  same  fate.  The  baths 
were  pulled  down,  says  INIr.  H.  D. 
Sevmour,  "in  a  most  barbarous  and 
ignorant  manner,"  in  1833,  by  Mr. 
Kasnatcheief,  the  civil  governor  of  the 
town,  in  order  to  make  r(X)ni  for  a 
parade-ground;  while  the  mosque, 
after  liaving  been  partially  pulled 
down  for  the  purpose  of  being  con- 
verted into  a  ch.  of  the  Busso-Greek 
faith,  and  the  lead  of  the  roofs  con- 
verted into  bullets,  was  abandoned  to 
the  injuries  of  the  weather  and  public, 
and  soon  became  a  perfect  ruin,  for 
want  of  funds  to  complete  its  conver- 
sion into  a  Christian  edifice.  In  1840 
the  great  square  of  the  town  was  filled 
with  the  precious  materials,  which 
were  then  being  sold  at  the  price  <»f 
common  stone.  All  the  beautiful  gar- 
dens and  the  rich  orchards  which 
surrounded  the  town  in  the  time  of 
the   Tartars  have  disappeared.      One 


single  winter  was  sufficient  for  the 
two  regiments  that  were  stationed 
there  to  annihilate  every  trace  of  the 
brilliant  cultivation  which  formerly 
covered  the  hills. 

From  the  fort  of  the  tower  of  Cle- 
ment VI.  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the 
town  and  bay.  In  the  midst  of  tho 
panorama  rises  the  ancient  Genoese 
citadel,  now  dismantled,  with  its  walls 
threatening  to  fall  down.  Before  the 
citadel,  an  edifice,  remarkable  by  its 
2  massive  groups  of  building,  Ijut 
without  any  exterior  ornament,  is  the 
princii)al  Armenian  ch.,  which  the  emi- 
grants of  thfi  nation  constructed  when 
they  arrived  here  under  the  protection 
of  the  Genoese,  after  the  terrible  earth- 
quake of  1319,  which  destroyed  their 
celebrated  city  Anni,  in  the  pashalik 
of  Kars.  The  ch.  in  question  has 
been  converted  into  a  warehouse,  but 
its  interior  has  preserved  the  distribu- 
tion of  the  religious  edifices  of  Ar- 
menia— a  grand  oratory  as  an  entrance, 
then  a  nave,  a  dome,  and  a  choir,  with 
lateral  sacristies. 

Another  ch.,  likewise  a  monument 
of  the  Genoese  epoch,  and  which  was 
restored  by  the  Armenians  after  the 
Bussian  occupation,  deserves  a  careful 
study,  as  a  good  and  well-preserved 
specimen  of  Armenian  architecture. 
The  i)ortico  is  the  most  ornamental 
part  of  the  edifice,  and  the  mouldings 
and  roses  are  as  varied  as  in  Gothic 
and  Byzantine  stjdes.  There  are  two 
images  of  St.  George,  the  saint  in 
whom  the  Armenians  and  the  Georg- 
ians have  so  much  confidence,  and  the 
walls  of  the  ch.  are  covered  both  in- 
side and  outside  with  funeral. crosses, 
as  in  Armenia. 

There  is  a  museum  at  Theodosia, 
which  is  an  ancient  Turkish  most|ue, 
with  two  lions  at  its  entrance,  brought 
from  Phanagoria.  Among  the  ancient 
Greek  monuments  is  a  griffin  of  fine 
workmanship.  There  are  also  many 
(Genoese  inscriptions,  and  among  them 
an  imi^ortant  one  found  on  the  tower 
of  Pope  Clement  VI. 

A  short  distance  from  the  town  is 
the  residence  of  the  celebrated  marine 
painter  Aivazofsky,  who  is  married  to 
an  English  lady,  and  a  visit  to  whose 


312 


Boute  17. — SadaJc, 


Sect.  11. 


studio  should,  if  .possible,  be  made  by 
the  traveller. 

From  Eupatoria  the  traveller  may 
proceed  to  Kertcli,  either  by  the  road 
(97  v.),  or  by  steamer,  which  takes 
about  8  hrs. 


10.  Alushta  to  Theodosla  and  Kertch, 
hy  way  of  SudaJ:. 

Travellers  who  may  wish  to  con- 
tinue their  journey  along  the  const  to 
Theodosia  will  consult  the  following 
itinerary. 

A  ride  of  8  miles  along  a  sterile 
and  desert  sliore  of  the  E.  coast  will 
bring  tiie  traveller  to  the  valley  of  the 
Vlu  Uzen,  past  a  very  pretty  residence 
that  once  belonged  to  an  English  lady ; 
and  some  miles  further  on  is  the  Bay 
of  Sudak,  and  the  former  residence  of 
Mile.  Jacquemart,  already  mentioned. 
The  catjiract  of  Jiirjur  and  the  grotto 
of  Tiiak  lie  between  Alushta  and 
Theodosia,  in  the  valley  of  Sudak, 
which  is  extrem(4y  fertile  and  pic- 
turesque, producing  a  very  good  imi- 
tation of  Champagne. 

Si'DAK,  a  small  hamlet  S3  v.  from 
Theodosia.     Pop.  370. 

Historii. — A  Greek  author  of  the 
13tli  centy.  states  that  the-  fortress  of 
Sugdei  was  built  a.d.  212,  and  in  the 
8th  centy.  after  Christ  a  bishopric  had 
already  existed  here  for  a  considcra})le 
time.  It  became  known  about  the 
same  time  under  the  nana^  of  Suroj  to 
the  Russians,  who  attacked  it  in  the 
middle  of  the  9th  century,  and  ever 
after  held  communication  with  it. 
Its  merchants,  who  traded  at  Moscow 
in  silks,  were  anciently  called  '•  men 
of  Suraj,"  and  their  goods  "  Surajski 
goods,"  whence  to  this  day  mercery 
goods  are  called  in  Russian  Sumrskie. 
The  Azof  Sea  is  likewise  called 
•'  Siu-ojskie  More "  in  old  Russian 
chronicles.  The  celebrity  of  Sudak, 
Soldaya,  or  Sugdei,  as  it  was  indif- 
ferently called  at  various  times,  begins 
properly  in  the  13tli  centy.,  when  it 
belonged  to  the  Venetians,  and  when  it 
was  the  centre  of  their  ti-ade  with  the 


countries  to  the  N.  and  S.  of  the 
Euxine. 

The  Tartars  took  it  for  the  first 
time  in  1223,  but  were  repulsed  in 
1240.  They  attacked  it  again,  and 
ravaged  it  in  1322.  The  remonstrance 
of  the  pope,  John  XXII.,  was,  how- 
ever, sufficient  in  1332  to  procure  from 
Usbek  Khan  the  restitution  of  tho 
city  to  the  (liristians ;  but  in  1327 
it  was  laid  waste  for  a  third  timo 
by  the  Tartars.  At  last,  on  the  18th 
June,  1300,  the  Genoese  took  it  from 
the  Venetians  and  fortified  it,  together 
with  18  villages,  which  they  at  the 
same  timo  obtained  by  treaty  from  the 
khan,  whom  they  conthiued  to  recog- 
nise as  suzerain.  It  was  then  that 
these  bold  merchants  raised  on  the 
most  inaccessible  part  of  the  rock  tho 
formidable  fortress  with  3  stages,  of 
which  the  ruins  still  remain,  and  on 
wiiich  the  Genoese  sentinels  were  ever 
on  the  alert  to  watch  over  the  port, 
the  sea,  and  the  neighbouring  coun- 
try. The  city  was  governed  by  a 
special  consul,  who  was  at  the  same 
time  commandant  of  the  fortress. 

The  Genoese  remained  undisturbc<l 
possessors  of  their  castle  for  more  than 
a  century,  but,  after  the  taking  of 
Constantinople  and  the  destruction  of 
Kafta.  Soldaya  fell  to  the  Tmks,  who 
in  1475  reduced  it  by  famine.  Aban- 
doned by  its  old  i)opulation,  the  city 
was  reduced  to  the  jiosition  of  an 
insignificant  military  post  wlien  tho 
Russians  took  it  in  the  17th  century. 
Then  began,  as  at  Kafta  and  else- 
where, the  destruction  of  the  monu- 
ments of  the  Genoese.  Several  public 
and  private  buildings,  which  Pallas 
admired  so  much  in  1793  for  their 
beautiful  architecture,  disappeared, 
and  their  precious  remains  were  used 
in  the  construction  of  huge  barracks 
that  were  later  abandoned,  and  now 
fonn  an  ugly  ruin.  Sufticient,  how- 
ever, still  remains  to  tempt  the  tra- 
veller to  visit  Sudak  on  his  way  to 
Kertch.  The  following  is,  like  most 
of  the  above,  extracted  from  INIr.  II.  D. 
Seymour's  work : — 

"  The  traveller  threading  his  way 
among  the  vineyards  may  approach 
the  pyramidal  rock  ou  which  are  built 


Bussia. 


Itoute  17. — Sudak, 


313 


the  three  stages  of  the  vast  and  care- 
fully constructed  fortress  which  once 
protected  the  surrounding  city  of  Sol- 
daya. The  rock  is  inaccessible  on  the 
side  of  the  sea,  but  may  easily  be 
approached  from  the  interior  of  the 
valley,  where  it  opens  on  a  broad  ter- 
race, defended  by  an  immense  rampart 
Hanked  by  ten  towers. 

"  The  entrance-gate  is  defended  by 
an  exterior  work ;  and  in  front  of  it, 
where  a  German  colony  has  lately  Ix'cn 
planted,  there  formerly  stood  the 
Genoese  part  of  the  town  of  Soldaya. 
Between  the  colony  and  the  gate  is  a 
beautiful  fountain  of  ancient  work- 
man.ship,  the  water  of  which  formerly 
supplied  the  fortress,  and  above  it  is 
placed  a  bas-relief  which  has  been 
brought  from  the  ruins,  of  St.  George 
killing  the  dragon,  and  the  escutcheon 
of  the  Doge  Adorno.  Over  the  gate  is 
an  inscription  declaring  it  to  have 
been  built  in  the  year  1385,  when  the 
noble  and  puissant  lord,  James  Gor- 
sevi,  was  the  consul  and  castellan  of 
Soldaya. 

'•  On  entering  the  gate  the  traveller 
stands  within  the  lower  fortress,  and 
finds  the  ground  covered  with  ruins. 
Here  are  the  immense  brick  cisterns 
which  contained  enough  water  to  sup- 
ply the  garrison  for  several  years ;  and 
the  aqueduct  of  earthen  tubes,  which 
conducted  the  rain-water  from  the 
rocks  above  is  still  visible.  Near 
it  arc  the  remains  of  some  Genoese 
houses  in  the  Gothic  style  with  dates 
and  escutcheons,  the  only  ones  which 
esc*aix.'d  destruction  when  the  Russians 
occupied  the  place.  Here  are  also 
the  most  uninteresting  remains  of  the 
huge  Russian  barracks  above  men- 
tioned. 

'*  Beyond  the  ruins  of  the  barracks, 
in  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  platform, 
where  the  rock  overhangs  the  sea  with 
a  sheer  precipice,  is  a  curious  edifice 
which  bears  traces  of  many  styles  of 
architecture.  It  must  have  been  ori- 
ginally l)uilt  as  a  mosque,  because  it 
does  not  look  E.  and  W.  like  a  Chris- 
tiiin  church,  but  N.  and  S.,  with  the 
altiir,  formerly  the  mahdrah  of  the 
mosque,  turned  in  the  direction  of 
Mecca.    It  was  probably  raised  by  the 


Tartars  when,  in  a  moment  of  fanati- 
cism, they  drove  the  Greek  Christians 
from  Sudak  in  the  beginning  of  the 
14th  centy.,  as  the  arrangement  of  the 
parts  and  the  style  of  the  ornaments 
are  of  an  earlier  date  than  the  Turkish 
occupation. 

'*  A  steep  path  leads  from  near  the 
church  to  the  middle  fortress,  called 
Katara-Koulld,  built  in  a  ledge  of  the 
precipitous  rock,  with  the  sea  chafing 
round  its  base.  Tlie  principal  tower 
is  constructed  in  the  noble  style  of  the 
15th  centy. 

"  A  narrow  path  along  the  edge  of 
the  precipice  leads  to  the  third  and 
highest  fortress,  called  the  Kiz-KouUe 
(the  Girl's  Tower),  which  is  the  real 
acropolis  on  the  summit  of  the  rock, 
and  consists  of  a  simple  square  tower, 
placed  like  the  eyrie  of  an  eagle,  com- 
manding a  view  of  the  expanse  of  the 
sea,  the  whole  of  the  fortifications,  the 
recesses  of  the  valley,  and  the  circuit 
of  the  ancient  town  of  Sudak,  in  which 
the  smallest  details  may  be  observed. 

"  The  eye  also  follows  the  windings 
of  the  coast  as  far  as  Castcle  and  Ai- 
Udagh,  and  wanders  over  the  terraces 
of  the  Tauric  chain  that  rise  one  above 
the  other,  while  turning  round  and 
looking  inland  the  traveller  sees  the 
Swiss  colony  which  has  replaced  the 
Scythian  Greeks,  Romans,  Genoese, 
and  Turks,  and  occupies  the  entrance 
of  the  beautiful  gulf  of  verdure  which 
stretches  inland  in  tho  midst  of  the 
dark  grey  rocks." 

The  best  view  of  the  valley  of  the 
Sudak  and  the  surrounding  country  is 
from  the  monastery  of  St.  George, 
placed  on  a  high  mountain,  a  projec- 
tion from  which  runs  into  the  sea,  and 
forms  the  eastern  side  of  the  bay. 
Near  Sudak  are  extensive  vineyards, 
cultivated  before  the  Crimean  war  by 
a  French  company. 

At  Koktebel,  a  little  village  on  the 
border  of  the  sea,  about  20  m.  from 
Sudak,  the  really  mountainous  parts 
of  the  Crimea  begin.  Beyond  it  the 
country  possesses  no  features  of  pic- 
turesque beauty.  On  all  the  line  from 
Sudak  to  Thetxlosia  there  is  no  ancient 
monument  or  ruin. 


314 


Boute  Vl.—Opuh  —  Kertck 


Sect.  II. 


Theodosia.  For  description  vide 
9,  Sirapheropol  to  Theodosia. 

About  10  V.  from  Tlieodosia  the 
main  road  to  Kertch  (wliich  runs 
through  a  country  described  by  Stral)o 
as  "rich  in  corn,  and  full  of  inhabit- 
ants") leaves  the  coast  and  runs  N.K. 
to  the  post  station  of 

Parpatch,  about  22  v.  from  Theodo- 
sia :  thence  to 

Arghin,  21  v.  E.  from  Parpatch, 
and 

Sultanofka,  22  v.  from  Arghin. 

From  this  station  the  traveller  might 
make  an  excursion  to 

Opuk,  a  Tartar  village  GO  v.  from 
Theodosia,  and  about  4.")  frum  Kortch. 

The  hill  ofOpuJc  is  raised  about  50  ft. 
above  a  chaotic  mass  of  rocks  below, 
which  descend  like  steps  to  the  sea, 
forming  on  one  side  Cape  Elen-Kaya 
or  Kara.  Here  in  very  ancient  times 
a  numerous  population  was  established. 
At  a  short  distaneo  from  the  shore  are 
2  rocky  islands  called  Karavi,  and  by 
these  the  place  is  identified  as  the 
ancient  Kimmericum.  The  S.E.  ex- 
tremity of  the  rock  was  tlie  Acropolis, 
cut  ofl'from  the  plain  by  a  wall  200  ft. 
long  and  9  ft.  thick ;  the  walls  of  it 
are  about  50  ft.  square  and  12  ft.  thick, 
and  a  ditch  cut  in  the  rock  separated 
it  from  the  exterior  town.  There  are 
ruins  and  grottoes  all  round,  and  there 
is  a  block  cut  into  the  form  of  a 
pedestal,  on  which  stood  the  statue  of 
a  divinity.  Tliero  is  likewise  a  well 
cut  in  the  rock,  and  a  great  deal  of 
pottery.  A  large  gate  communicated 
from  the  Acroj)olis  to  the  town.  Num- 
Ijerless  remains  of  liouses  may  be 
traced  on  the  S.E.  There  were  also 
exterior  fortifications,  and  a  polygonal 
wall  defended  the  whole  peninbula 
between  the  bay  and  tlie  gulf,  embrac- 
ing a  space  of  about  4  square  miles. 
Thus  there  were  2  castles  and  2  ports, 
and  probably  villas  and  gardens, 
within  the  circuit  of  the  wall.  IMie 
Genoese  are  supposed  to  have  carried 
away  the  remains  of  Kimmericum,  in 
order  to  build  Kalfa. 

On  the  coast  between  Opidc  and 
Kertch,  at  about  12  m.  from  the  latter, 
is   tlie    site    of    ancient    Nymphxiim, 


which  was  founded  at;  the  same  tirao 
as  Panticapajum,  and  fell  into  tho 
power  of  the  Athenians  in  the  time  of 
Pericles.  It  was  betrayed  into  the 
hands  of  the  Posporians  in  n.c.  410. 
In  tlie  time  of  Mithridates  it  was  still 
a  strong  place,  where  he  lodged  tho 
greater  part  of  the  army  which  he 
destined  for  his  grand  expedition  by 
the  Danube  and  the  Alps  against  tlie 
llomans.  Nymplucum  afterwards  ra- 
pidly decoyed,  and  in  the  time  of 
Pliny  existed  only  as  a  name. 

The  town  was  situated  on  the  angle 
between  the  ancient  gulf  and  the  Bos- 
porus. The  rampart  is  easily  traced, 
and  the  suburbs  were  around  tlio 
metropolis.  There  are  large  masses 
of  ruins  everywhere,  and  the  soil  is 
several  feet  deep  in  broken  pottery, 
mucli  of  which  is  Etruscan.  At 
about  one-third  of  a  mile  from  the 
t(nvn  the  tumnli  begin.  A  small 
colony  of  Russians  is  established  at 
the  foot  of  the  Acropolis,  on  ;he  side 
of  the  Bosporus ;  and  here  arc  wells  of 
excellent  water,  which  date  from  tho 
time  of  Nympliasum.  Large  ([uanti- 
ties  of  herrings  are  caught  here. 

The  traveller  who  Ims  not  made  this 
digression  will  prf>ceed  from  Sultanof- 
ka  to  Kertch,  and  make  from  thence 
excursions  to  Oi)uk  and  to  the  vast 
number  of  other  ruins  and  tumuli 
scattered  all  over  the  country  from 
Theodosia. 

Keutcii,  23  V.  from  Snltanoflva,  88 
V.  from  Theodosia,  and  201  v.  from 
Simpheropol.  Pop.  21,000,  with  Eni- 
kale. 

Historii,  iW. — The  histoiy  of  Kertoh 
goes  back  to  the  0th  centy.  before 
Christ,  when  Greeks  from  Miletus 
crstablished  on  its  site  a  colony  which 
they  called  Panticapicum,  which  later 
became  the  capital  of  the  "Kingdom 
of  the  BosiM)rus,"  the  first  sovereigns  of 
which,  it  is  supposed,  were  of  Scythian 
origin.  In  the  first  centy.  before 
Christ  the  Bosj)orianH  jiaid  tribute  to 
Mithridates  King  of  Pontus,  whose 
son  I'harnaces  rebelled,  and  became 
the  progenitor  of  a  new  line  of  Bos- 
porian  kings,  whose  rule  was  main- 
tained   under  the    protection  of   the 


Russia. 


Houie  17. — Kertch. 


315 


Pomans  until  the  4th  centy.  of  the 
Christian  era.  They  even  extended 
tluir  dominions,  as  we  have  already 
seen,  along  the  whole  of  the  coast 
of  the  Crimea,  and  even  to  the  shores 
of  the  Sea  of  Azof  The  kingdom  of 
the  Bosporus  was  destroyed  during  the 
great  migration  of  nations,  and  its 
history  after  that  event  remains  some- 
what obscure.  While  the  city  was 
under  the  dominion  of  the  Emperors  of 
the  East  it  was  frequently  ravaged  by 
barbarous  tribes,  and  particularly  in 
the  7th  eenty.  by  the  Khazars,  who  had 
then  tiiken  possession  of  the  Taurida. 
The  Tartars,  having  occupied  the  pen- 
insula in  the  13th  centy.,  ceded  the 
Bosi)orus  in  1318  to  the  Genoese,  who 
began  to  call  the  ancient  town  Cerkio, 
and  converted  it  into  a  prosi)erous  em- 
ix)rium  of  trade;  but  at  the  end  of  the 
15th  centy.  Kertch  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Turks,  who  made  it  one  of  their  mili- 
tary harbours.  Its  importance  as  such 
was  considerably  increased  when  the 
naval  war  between  Russia  and  Turkey 
connnenceil.  In  1771  Kertch  was  oecu- 
l)icd  by  a  Itussian  cor]>s,  and  together 
with  Enikale  was  ceded  to  Russia  by 
the  treaty  of  Kuchuk-Kainardji.  It 
then  became  a  basis  of  the  Russian 
operations  against  the  Tartars.  Many 
Greeks  from  the  ArchijK-lago  were 
subsequently  settled  here,  and  later, 
emigi-ants  from  Romnania,  Bulgaria, 
and  Varna. 

Kertch  remained  a  military  station 
until  1821,  when  the  fortifications 
were  dismantled,  and  the  town  was 
opened  to  maritime  trade  under  an 
independent  munieipality.  It  was  next 
made  a  quarantine  station;  but  its 
foreign  trade  has  remained  very  in- 
considerable, the  prineij.al  industry  of 
the  iuhabitjints  being  the  raising  of 
salt  and  fishhig.  In  1855  the  tf)wn 
was  occupied  by  an  Engli.vh  and  Turk- 
ish force  for  more  than  a  year.  The 
('fleets  of  a  boml)ardment  are  still 
visible  in  dismantled  houses  and  ruined 
jmblic  buildings.  The  museum  on 
the  Hill  of  Mithridates,  of  which  the 
contents  were  foitunately  removed  by 
the  Russians,  is  likewise  in  ruins. 

Kertch,  like  all  Greek  colonies,  is 
charmingly   situated.      A  hill  called 

liussia. — 18G8. 


the  Aim  Chair  of  Mithridates  rises 
at  a  short  distance  from  the  shore. 
Around  it  Avas  originally  built  the  old 
(Treek  town,  and  on  its  sides  were;  once 
clustered  a  variety  of  (ireek  temples, 
crowned  on  the  top  by  the  Aaojtolis. 
The  Turkish  fortress  below  the  hill 
has  been  cleared  away  to  make  r(X)m 
for  a  handsome  square*,  surrounded  by 
arcades,  from  which  streets  diverge  in 
all  directions.  Two  or  three  days  may 
very  well  be  spent  in  visiting  the  num- 
IxTiess  ancient  remains  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. The  cli.  of  Kertch,  which 
foiinerly  stood  in  the  fortress,  is  a 
curious  specimen  of  Byzantine  archi- 
tecture, and  the  date  of  its  erection 
engraven  on  one  of  its  columns  (a.d. 
757)  proves  it  to  be  the  oldest  Byzan- 
tine temple  now  remaining  in  the 
Crimeji.  The  Acroj)olis  was  an  irre- 
gular polygon  in  shape,  and  the  ditches 
and  some  parts  of  the  walls  (the  latter 
in  the  coarse  limestone  of  Kertch)  may 
still  be  traced.  The  fortified  town 
touched  the  Acropolis  in  the  form  of  a 
long  s(jnare,  of  which  the  Acropolis 
occupied  tlie  S.E.  angle.  The  wall  in 
its  circuit  enclosed  only  the  summit 
and  the  northern  slope  of  the  Hill  of 
]Mithridates.  The  southern  side  seems 
never  to  have  Ijcen  fortified,  although 
there  are  mnnerous  traces  of  the  foun- 
dations of  Imildings. 

Mr.  H.  D.  Seymour  says  that  the 
"Arm  Chair"  is  cvilently  only  part 
of  an  ancient  edifice  in  which  it  was 
included,  the  form  of  which  may  be 
traced  by  the  foundations  of  the 
walls.  The  princij)al  gate  of  the  town 
was  turned  towards  the  interior  of 
the  peninsula,  in  the  centre  of  the 
western  wall.  It  led  to  Xymplueum 
and  Theodo.sia,  and  the  place  is  easily 
reeogui.sed  by  the  interruption  of  the 
deep  ditch  which  ran  along  it.  At 
240  yds.  from  the  gate  which  led  to 
Theodosia  was  an  avenue  of  tumuli^ 
ranged  several  rows  deep  on  each  side, 
in  an  irregular  manner,  and  continuing 
for  two-thirds  of  a  mile.  This  long 
series  of  tombs,  continues  Mr.  H.  D. 
S;ymour,  seems  to  date,  in  great 
measure,  from  the  foundation  of  tho 
t<jwn  by  the  ^Milesians.  At  a  later 
period  the  dwellings  of  the  dead  be- 


316 


Boute  17. — Kertch 


Sect.  II, 


Kussia. 


Houte  18. — Kertcli  to  TsarUsia. 


817 


came  more  extended,  and  occupied  the 
mngc  of  hills  in  continuation  of  Mount 
Mithridatcs  for  6  or  7  ra.  in  length, 
and  here  arc  found  the  toml)s  of  the 
kings.  Tumuli  arc  also  f(»und  on  the 
other  side  of  the  low  plain  to  the  N., 
where  they  form  three  grand  groups, 
the  best  known  of  which  is  near  the 
modern  Quarantine.  The  gate  to  the 
N.  of  the  TJieodosian  gate  led  to 
the  Greek  city  of  Dia,  near  Kamisli- 
boriin.  Along'it  were  the  tombs  of  the 
poorer  inhabituntH,  who  buried  their 
m-ns  and  cinders  around  a  coral-rag 
peak,  245  ft.  above  the  level  of  the 

bay. 

The  enormous  quantity  of  tumuli 
round  Kerteh  forms  one  of  the  distin- 
guishing features  of  the  place.  IMany 
of  them  have  been  pillaged  in  ancient 
as  well  as  in  modern  days,  and  some 
have  been  unfortunately  opened  with- 
out sufficient  care.  Scientific  researches 
were  first  m;id(^  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Kertch  in  182.5.  when  Blaramberg 
found  a  considerable  number  of  gold 
ornaments,  but  the  excavations  of  1830 
yielded  a  for  greater  prize  in  the  shape 
of  an  undisturbed  tomb  of  a  Bos]>orian 
king  and  queen.  It  was  found  in  tlie 
tumulus  of  Kul-lJba,  (')  v.  S.AV.  of 
Kertch,  on  the  road  to  Tlieodosia.  The 
gold  and  silver  ornaments  weighed 
more  than  100  lbs.  avoirdupois,  but 
the  greater  part  of  them  were  stolen 
the  night  after  tlieir  discovery,  and  the 
government  only  succeeded  in  IS.")!)  hi 
purchasing  that  portion  of  the  treasures 
which  is  now  exhibited  in  the  Her- 
mitage at  St.  Petersburg.  INIany  other 
tumuli  were  subsequently  opened,  and 
their  valuable  contents  jirojiorly  se- 
cured. One  of  the  latest  and  richest 
discoveries  was  made  in  1 8r)8,  when  a 
Siircophngus  of  cypress-wood  was  found 
ill  a  tumulus  on  the  Pavlosk  battery. 
(For  a  description  of  its  treasures  ridr 
''  Hermitage,  St.  Pet<'rsburg,"  and  Mr. 
H.  D.  S<ymour\s  v.urk.) 

Enikale  is  at  the  point  of  the  penin- 
8ula,  about  7  m.  from  Kertch,  to  the 
N.E.  Its  castle  was  built  by  the 
Turks  to  c:)mmand  the  passiigu  of 
the  lioBporos. 


From  Kertch  the  traveller  will  either 
return  by  boat  to  Odessa,  or  continue 
his  journey  to  Rostof  on  the  Don  and 
Novocherkask,  and  thence  up  the 
Volga ;  or  he  may  go  by  steamer  to 
the  Caucasus. 

A  very  plea.sant  and  instructive 
excursion  may  likewise  be  made  from 
Kertch  to  Taman,  the  ancient  Pliana- 
goria.  The  steamers  of  the  Russian 
Black  Sea  Navigation  Comjiany  main- 
tain the  communication. 

Steamers. — The  steamer  for  the  Cau- 
casus leaves  Kertch  on  the  same  day 
that  tiie  lx>at  arrives  from  Tlieodosia, 
so  that  a  delightful  excursion  to  the 
grand  coasts  of  the  eastern  shores  of 
the  Black  Sea  is  quite  feasible.  The 
steamer  touches  at  Novorossisk, 
Tuapse,  and  Sukhum  Kale',  and  reaches 
Poti  in  alx)ut  GO  hrs.  from  Kertch. 
From  Poti  the  traveller  can  proceed 
by  the  steamers  of  the  Russian  Steam 
Navigation  Company  to  Batoum, 
Trebizond,  and  Constantinople,  thus 
making  the  entire  circuit  of  the  Black 
Sea.  The  boat  from  Batoum  arrives 
at  Constanthiople  in  time  to  catch  the 
]Messagcries  Imperiales  steamer  for 
Marseilles.  The  traveller  may  remain 
on  board  these  steamers  while  they 
are  in  harbour  upon  making  an  arrange- 
ment witli  the  .steward  for  his  board, — 
a  proceeding  whieh  he  will  find  more 
reasonable  than  the  charges  at  an  hotel. 

Comuhite. — There  is  a  BritUh  Consul 
at  Kertch. 


ROUTE  18. 

KERTCH    TO   TSARITSIN  ON    THE  VOLGA, 
BY  KOSTOF. 

After  coaling  at  Kertch,  the  Crimean 
steamer  proceeds  through  the  Straits 
of  Enikale  for  the  ports  of  the  Sea  of 
Azof.  The  coast  on  either  side  is  un- 
interesting, and  the  sea  is  of  dirty 
colour  and  pea-soup  consistency.  In 
nutumn  the  surface  of  the  water  is 
thickly  matted  with  weeds,  but  the 
great  quantity  of  shipping  gives  life 
and  variety  to  the  scene.  The  first 
place  of  stoppage  (in  about  12  hrs.  from 
Kertch)  is 

Bkrdiansk.    Pop.  10,000. 

This  maritime  town  was  founded  by 
Prince  Woronzoflf  in  1827.  It  has  a 
considerable  trade  in  gmin,  linseed, 
tallow,  &c. ;  also  in  salt,  which  is  raised 
in  the  neighbourhood ;  and  it  is  the 
seat  of  a  British  consulate.  There  is 
nothing  to  interest  the  traveller  at 
Berdiaiisk.  In  about  24  hrs.  after 
leaving  Kertch  the  steamer  will  cast 
anchor  at 

Mariupol,  near  mouth  of  Ivalmius 
riv.    Pop.  GOOO. 

This  was  originally  a  colony  of 
Greeks  from  the  Crimea,  who,  iu  177i>, 
to  the  numlx'r  of  18,000,  obtained  free 
grants  of  land  on  this  part  of  the  coast. 
The  population  is  still  almost  exclu- 
sively Greek.  There  are  five  Greek 
churches.  In  the  Ch.  of  the  Asmmp- 
tion  is  a  miracle-working  picture  of  the 
Virgin,  brought  there  by  the  Greeks 
who  removed  from  Bakhtchisai-ai.  It 
was  on  the  Kalchik  river,  wliich  falls 
into  the  Kalmius  a  little  above  the 
town  of  Mariupol,  that  the  Russian 
princes  met  with  their  first  defeat  at 
the  hands  of  the  Mongols,  in  1224. 
Vide  Hist.  Notice,  '*  Battle  of  Khalka." 
In  about  6  hrs.  the  steamer  will  cross 
over  to  the  oi)positu  coast,  and  stop  for 
a  short  time  at 


I 


EiSK,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ei  river. 
Pop.  20,000. 

Founded  in  1848,  this  town  has 
grown  rapidly  in  population,  to  whom 
an  immunity  from  taxation  was  granted 
until  the  year  1859.  It  has  a  small 
trade  in  corn,  wheat,  and  linseed.  In 
10  or  12  hrs.  the  steamer  will  have 
reached  the  end  of  her  voyage  at 

Taganrog.  For  description  vide 
Rte.  15. 

During  the  summer  (from  May  to 
4th  (16th)  October)  steamers  leave 
Taganrog  three  times  a  week  for  Rostof. 
Fare  2J  rs.    Passage  in  about  6  hrs. 

Rostof,  on  river  Don.    Pop.  29,000. 

Steamers,  <fcc.— The  traveller  bound 
to   the  Volga  is  recommended  to  go 
at  once  on  board  the  steamer  which 
ascends  the  Don  twice  a  week  to  Ka- 
latcli,  and  secure  a  sofa.    The  boats 
have  one  large  cabin  common  to  all 
Ist-class  passengers,  and  one  for  the 
2nd  class.    There  is  also  a  ladies'  cabin, 
and  a  deck-house  for  the  use  of  the  Ist- 
class  passengers.    A  cabin  witii  two 
berths    may,   however,   frequently  be 
secured,  the  charge  for  the  latter  being 
50  rs.,  while  the  Ist-elass  fare  to  Ka- 
latch  is  only  17  rs.,  with  the  addition 
of  70  cop.  per  ix)ud  for  any  luggage  in 
excess  of  1  poud.   The  charge  tor  living 
on  board  is  1;^  r.  a  day,  exclusive  of 
wine ;  and  a  gratuity  to  the  steward 
of  2  r.  at  the  end  of  the  voyage  will 
be  sufficient.    As  the  steamers  do  not 
run   through    the    night,   the  voyage 
occupies  about  2i  days,  the  distance 
being  about  350  versts. 

History,  &c. — The  history  of  Rostof 
dates  only  from  17G1,  when  the  Em- 
press Elizabeth  caused  a  fortress  to  be 
built  there,  near  the  fort  of  St.  Anne, 
raised  by  Peter  the  Great,  and  in- 
tended both  to  keep  the  Cossacks  in 
proper  awe  and  submission,  and 
as  a  basis  of  operations  against  the 
Turks.  The  towns  of  Rostof  and  Nak- 
hichevan subsequently  grew  up  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  fortifications.  The  now 
dismantled /or^res8o/5^^  Dimitry,  esta- 
blished in  tiie  reign  of  the  empress, 
lies  between  the  two*  towns.  Rostof 
is  very  picturesquely  situated  on  the 

Q  2 


318 


Boute  19. — Bostof  to  Novocherlcash. 


Sect.  II. 


elevated  it.  btUik  of  the  Don,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Tcmeniik  rivulet.  It 
is  now  a  considerable,  and  still  im- 
proving, place  of  trade.  Large  fairs 
arc  held  twice  a  year,  when  great 
nun)l)ers  of  horned  cattle  and  horses 
aro  brought  for  sjde. 

There  is  notliing  to  interest  the 
traveller  at  Rostof,  and  he  will  direct 
his  attention  principally  to  the  beau- 
tiful scenery  of  some  parts  of  the  Don, 
and  to  thc!  novelty  of  tlic  life  with 
wliich  he  is  surrounded. 

The  Don,  the  ancient  Tanais,  is  one 
of  the  most  important  rivers  of  Kussia 
in  Europe.  Kising  in  a  lake  (Ivan- 
ozcro)  in  the  province  of  Tula,  its  course 
as  far  as  the  Sea  of  Azof  is  about  1300 
Eug.  m.  in  length.  The  river  becomes 
somewhat  navigable  in  its  middle 
course,  between  the  mouth  of  the 
Yoronej  riv.,  and  thestat.  of  Kachalin, 
74  V.  above  Kalatch,  where  it  Hows 
through  a  chalky  formation.  Erom 
Kachalin  the  rt.  bank  rises  considerably, 
exhibiting  strata  of  the  npi>er  tertiary 
formation,  wliilst  the  1.  bank  is  low  and 
frequently  inundated  in  spring.  The 
ci  Icbrated  vineyards  of  the  Don  stretch 
along  the  rt.  Ixink  of  thc  river,  through- 
out its  lower  course,  which  terminates 
in  a  delta  a  little  below  Rostof.  The 
utmost  activity  prevails  f»n  the  middle 
and  lower  courses  of  tiie  river.  The 
(juantity  of  goods  floated  down  the 
Don  in  18G0  weighed  135,000  tons,  of 
the  value  of  4i  millions  of  roubles.  The 
lisheries  on  the  lower  course  of  tlie  Don 
have  been  a  monojKjly  of  the  Don  Cos- 
sacks since  the  17th  centy.  The  yield 
of  fish  becomes  particularly  rich  from 
the  Aksai  station.  The  quantity  f»f 
fish  annually  taken  l)efore  18G0  was 
about  10,380  tons,  in  addition  to  7 
million  herrings.  A  thousand  pouils 
of  caviar  (100  tons)  are  annually  ex- 
tracted from  the  sturgeon,  which  is  the 
prhicipal  fish  caught,  and  of  which  the 
great  mass  is  smoked  on  the  spot.  Eish- 
ing  is  likewise  carried  on  in  winter, 
v.hen  the  fish  taken  through  holes  in 
the  ice  are  allowed  to  freeze,  and  are 
carried  over  the  whole  of  Russia  in  a 
frozen  state. 

At  Kalatch,  now  the  most  imix)r- 


tant  wharf  on  the  Don,  the  traveller  will 
take  rail  for  Tsaritsin  on  the  Volga. 
The  railway  was  opened  in  18G1  by  an 
American  Company,  but  is  now  in  tho 
hands  of  the  government.  It  is  well 
made,  and  the  carriages  are  very  com- 
fortable. The  distance  is  73  v.,  and 
the  fare,  1st  class,  2  rs.  19  c.  It  is 
best  to  go  on  bo; ml  thc  Vol^a  steamer 
at  once,  and  secure  a  berth.  Eroru 
Tsaritsin  the  traveller  can  either  ascend 
the  river  to  Nijni  Novgorotl  ifarc  35  rs. 
exclusive  of  living),  or  he  may  pro- 
ceed downwards,  and  visit  Astrakhan 
(205  m.)  and  Astrabad  on  the  Caspian, 
returning  by  the  same  route;  for  de- 
scription of  which  vide  Rte.  9,  the 
Volga  :  Tver  to  Astrakhan. 


ROUTE  19. 

liOSTOF   TO  NOVOCHEKKASK. 

A  very  pleasant  excursion  may  be 
matle  from  Rostof,  cither  by  rail  or  by 
steamer,  to  Novocherkask,  the  capital 
of  the  Don  Cossacks,  and  by  rail  to  thc 
coal-fields  of  Gnishcvka,  00  v.  from 
Rostof. 

NoTOCTiEnKASK.     Pop.  20,000. 

llistori/,  (C-c\— The  town  is  very 
prettily  situated  on  an  eminence,  on 
three  sides  of  which  flow  the  Aksai 
and  Tursova  rivulets.  The  territory 
of  which  it  is  the  capital  has  an  area 
of  2806  square  geographical  miles,  and 


Russia. 


Boiife  20. — London  to  T'lflk, 


319 


its  limits  will  be  seen  defined  on  the 
map.  It  was  well  known  to  the 
ancients,  for  the  Greeks  had  a  colony 
(Tana)  on  the  shore  of  the  Sea  of  Azof, 
5  cents.  B.C.,  and  several  factories 
along  the  Don .  The  greater  part  of  the 
country  was  held  successively  by  the 
Scythians,  Sarmatians,  Huns,  Bolgars, 
Khazars,  and  lastly  by  the  Tartars, 
who  defeated  tho  Russian  princes,  in 
1224,  on  the  Khalka,  within  the  present 
territory  of  the  Don  Cossacks,  as  already 
stated.  The  present  population  daU-s 
from  the  early  part  of  the  IGth  centy., 
when  renegades  from  ]\Ioscow,  vagrants 
of  every  description,  formed  themselv(,'S 
into  military  or  rather  robber  com- 
munities, and  styled  themselves  "Cos- 
sacks." In  the  IGth  and  17th  cents, 
they  frequently  made  expeditions 
against  the  Tartars  and  Turks,  and 
in  1G37  took  the  Tm-kish  fortress  of 
Azof,  which  they  were,  however,  forced 
to  relinquish  five  years  later.  Until 
the  reign  of  Peter  the  Great  the 
Russians  did  not  interfere  much  with 
the  jKiwerful  and  independent  Cossacks, 
but  from  1718  tliey  were  gradually 
brought  under  thc  power  of  the  Tsars, 
wiiom  they  assisted  in  all  subsequent 
wars.  Episodes  in  the  historj'  of  the 
Cossacks  will  be  found  scattered 
throughout  this  Handbook. 

Thc  town  of  Novocherkask,  founded 
in  1804,  has  considerably  improved 
under  the  Hetmanship  of  General 
Potapoft;  whose  palace  and  garden 
should  be  visited  by  the  traveller.  Not 
fiir  from  the  palace  is  a  bronze  monu- 
ment raised  to  the  famous  Hetman 
Platotf,  who  led  the  Cossacks  between 
1770  and  ISIG.  There  is  a  theatre, 
as  well  as  a  club-house.  The  latter 
should  be  visited  for  the  purpose  of 
tasting  the   excellent  champagne   of 

the  Don. 

The  anthracite  coal-fields  of  Gru- 
shefka  are  about  30  v.  N.  of  Novo- 
cherkask. The  coal  has  been  worked 
since  1839,  and  the  quantity  now 
annually  raised  is  6  to  7  million 
ponds.  The  area  of  the  coal  forma- 
tion is  about  207,000  square  fathoms. 
The  quality  of  the  coal  is  tolerably 
good,  for  it  contains  94*90  per  cent,  of 
carlx)n,  and   is   much    used    by  the 


steamers  in  the  Black  Sea,  and  also  on 
the  Volga-Don  Railway. 


ROUTE  20. 

LONDON  TO  TIFLTS,  BY  CONSTANTINOPLE. 
— THE  CAUCASUS.* 

There  are  two  principal  routes  to 
Persia  vlii  Tiflis  and  the  Caucasus  : — 
one  by  way  bf  Constantinople  and  the 
Black  Sea  ;  the  other  l)y  way  of  St. 
Petersburg  and  the  Volga. 

[Ohs.  Those  who  set  out  to  travel 
in  the  Caucasus  should  not  omit  to 
provide  themselves  with  everything 
requisite  in  a  country  where  the  mo- 
dern appliances  of  civilized  life  are 
almost  entirely  wanting.  The  outfit 
should  include  a  saddle,  a  portable 
bath,  and  a  small  cork  bed.  The 
money  which  a  traveller  will  find 
most  useful  in  Georgia  is  a  supply  of 
napoleons,  easily  exchanged  for  Rus- 
sian money  in  the  towns.  A  supply 
sulBcient  for  the  entire  journey  should 

•  Tlip  route  hero  described  may  be  joined 
from  (jdessa.  There  is  a  service  of  the  Kussiiin 
Steam  Navigation  Company's  stoamers  between 
Odessa  and  i  'oti,  corresponding  with  the  steamers 
of  tlie  same  G)nipany  which  run  between  Ba- 
tuum  and  Constantinoi>le. 

Tlie  rout-  to  Persia  by  way  of  Trebizond  and 
Er/erum  is  not  described  here,  as  it  does  not 
pass  throupli  any  portion  of  the  Russian  do- 
minions. It  is,  moreover,  not  to  be  reeom- 
mended,  for  the  journey  from  Trebizond  has  to 
be  performed  on  horseback,  with  miserable  ac- 
commodation on  the  way,  and  not  always  in 
security. 


T>-,,./^  on 


320 


Boiite  20,— Pott. 


Sect.  II. 


be  taken  :  and  before  leaving  any 
town  it  is  necessary  to  secure  a  con- 
siderable number  of  rubles  in  paper 
and  small  silver  coins,  wherewith  to 
pay  at  each  station  for  post-horses. 
The  hire  of  post-horses  throughout 
the  Caucasus  is  3  copecks  a  verst  for 
each  horse ;  no  charge  is  made  for  the 
cart,  but  the  drivers  expect  a  small 
present  of  15  to  25  cop.  at  each  stage. 
At  the  stations  travellers  will  gene- 
rally only  tind  a  samovar  or  tea-urn, 
and  nothing  but  eggs  and  black 
bread  to  eat;  beef  or  mutton  is  for 
the  most  part  not  to  be  found.  The 
utmost  which  the  traveller  will  obtj\in 
through  the  llussian  provinces,  except 
at  the  towns,  is  very  bad  soup,  or  a 
fowl  newly  killed;  vegetables  and 
fruit  are  very  scarce.  But  desirabk' 
as  it  is  that  more  attention  were  paid 
to  the  provisioning  of  the  stations, 
travelling  in  Georgia  has  a  charm 
which  fully  compensates  for  the  pri- 
vations and  causes  them  to  be  for- 
gotten. Every  facility  is  given  by 
the  Kussian  authorities  to  stranger 
tourists.  In  most  parts  of  the  pro- 
vinces travelling  is  perfectly  safe; 
and  wherever  it  is  attended  with 
danger,  as  in  Circassia  and  Daghestan, 
no  one  is  allowed  to  proceed  without 
the  protection  of  a  sufficient  guard. 
The  climate  is  at  all  seasons  very 
pleasant,  excepthig  towards  the  Per- 
sian frontier  in  the  summer  months ; 
and  no  one  need  be  disappointed  with 
a  tour  in  this — 

"Ixiauty's  native  clime, 
AVlioro  Kaff  is  clad  in  rocks  and  crowuM  with 
8U0WS  bublime."] 

The  route  by  Constantinople  and 
the  Black  Sea,  being  the  most  expe- 
ditious, is  described  first : — 

[06s.  Travellers  must  select  their 
own  route  to  Constantinople,  which 
maybe  reached,  l.viu  Marseilles;  2. 
via  the  Danube ;  3.  via.  Trieste ;  and 
4.  via  Ancona.] 

The  steamers  of  the  Russian  Steam 
Navigation  Company  ply  between  Con- 
stantinople and  Poti.  Travellers  change 
at  Batoum  into  a  steamer  which  per- 
forms the  service  between  that  port 


and  Poti,  and  which  has  a  less  draught 
of  water  to  enable  it  to  cross  the  bar 
of  the  river  Kion. 

Poti.*  A  fortified  harbour  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Riou,  the  ancient 
Pliasis,  on  the  Caucasian  coast  of  tho 
Black  Sea.  The  town  is  composed  of 
a  collection  of  wooden  houses  sur- 
rounded by  a  forest.  The  principal 
drawback  to  its  development  is  the 
bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kion,  which 
prevents  most  vessels  from  entering 
the  river,  and  where  it  is  very  often 
so  rough  as  to  make  all  communica- 
tion between  the  shore  and  the  ship- 
ping outside  impossible. 

Tlie  climate  of  Poti  is  disagreeable, 
and  fever  prevails  during  the  summer 
months.  It  is  nevertheless  the  port  of 
Titlis,  from  which  it  is  3G0  v.  (or  240 
m.)  distant,  and  a  place  of  growing 
importance. 

JIdtels :  "  Colchide ; "  and  another, 
more  recently  established,  close  to  tho 
landing-place  of  the  steamer  ; — both 
kept  by  Frenchmen. 

A  British  Yice-Consul  resides  at 
Poti. 

From  Poti  a  small  steamer  proceeds 
up  the  Ilion,  twice  a  wei'k,  to  Maran, 
8(J  V.  or  57  m.  distant.  There  are  no 
])ost-horses  between  Poti  and  Maran, 
but  travellers  have  been  able  to  secure 
riding-horses.  In  sunnner,  when  tho 
road  is  dry,  the  distance  may  be  ac- 
complished in  one  day  with  the  same 
horses ;  but  in  winter,  when  the  mud 
is  knee-deep,  it  is  necessary  to  pass  a 
night  on  the  road.  The  w^ay  lies 
through  the  famous  Mingrelian  forest. 
Tlie  scenery  along  the  Rion  is  beauti- 
ful. To  the  riglit  are  the  Lesghian 
mountains,  and  to  the  left,  far  away, 
are  the  snow-covered  peaks  of  the 
Caucasus.  The  structure  of  the  houses, 
built  on  piles,  would  seem  to  indicate 
a  very  damj)  and  feverish  country  on 
lK)th  sides  of  the  river.  The  Mingre- 
lians  and  Imeritians,  who  will  be  met 
on  the  road,  are  probably  the  hand- 

-  •  A  rly.  is  In  course  of  constniction  from 
Poti  to  Tiflis.  When  completed,  it  will  attract 
a  great  numl:)er  of  tourists  to  the  Cauciisus,  a 
fuller  description  of  w  hich  must  be  reserved  for 
a  new  edition.  . 


Russia. 


Boiite  20. — Kutais  —  Siiram. 


321 


somest  race  in  the  world ;  and  no  one 
can  travel  through  their  country  with- 
out being  struck  by  the  remarkable 
lieauly  of  the  women. 

Maran  is  a  military  station  and  con- 
tains about  2000  Inhab.  The  gar- 
rison is  composed  in  great  part  of 
"  Scoptsi,"  a  Russian  religious  sect  of 
which  the  tenets  enjoin  self-mutilation. 
The  Caucasus  is  their  place  of  banish- 
ment when  discovered.  As  soldiers 
they  are  said  to  be  very  easily  ma- 
naged. The  post-house  is  the  place 
of  refuge  for  travellers.  Post-horses 
may  be  obtained  here  for  Tiflis,  and 
thence  to  Baku  or  Lenkoran,  to  the 
Persian  frontier  at  Djulfa,  or  to  any 
of  the  chief  towns  of  the  Caucasus. 
The  posting  establishment  is  so  exten- 
sive as  to  occasion  a  considerable  loss 
to  the  Government,  at  whose  charge 
it  is  maintained.  Travellers  with 
courier  podorojnas  will  get  the  best 
horses.  A  drive  of  4  hrs.,  at  an  ordi- 
nary speed,  will  bring  the  traveller  to 

KuTAis  (Pop.  5000),  the  ancient 
Cyta,  the  principal  city  of  Colchis, 
and  now  the  capital  of  Imeritia.  It 
was  to  this  place  that  Jason  and  his 
companions  came  in  the  Argo  to  obtain 
the  Gf)lden  Fleece.  The  town  is  de- 
lightfully situated  among  green  hills ; 
and  the  Rion,  twice  crossed  by  stone 
bridges,  flows  through  it.  On  a  hill 
a  little  above  the  town  are  the  remains 
of  a  building  attributed  to  the  Genoese. 
There  are  two  hotels  at  Kutais;  the 
proprietor  of  one  is  a  Hungarian,  and 
of  the  other  a  Russian  ;  but  no  comforts 
will  be  found  at  either  of  them.  It 
was  to  obtain  possession  of  Kutais  that 
Omar  Pasha  undertook  the  campaign 
on  the  eastern  coast  of  the  Black  Sea 
in  the  autumn  of  1855.  The  late 
advance  of  the  Turkish  army  and  the 
want  of  an  efficient  commissariat  made 
the  expedition  abortive. 

There  are  6  stages  between  Kutais 
and  SuuAM,  at  the  watershed  that 
separates  the  provinces  of  Imeritia  and 
Georgia.  The  first  station  is  agree- 
ably situated,  and  counuands  a  good 
view.  It  contains  2  good-sized  rooms. 
The  road  is  rough,  and  the  ordinary 
vehicles  very  uncomfortable.     Those 


who  are  fond  of  fine  scenery  should 
make  the  fifth  stage,  through  the 
splendid  pass  of  Suram,  in  the  day- 
time. The  mountains  through  which 
the  road  winds  are  covered  with  trees 
from  their  siunmits  to  the  valleys  be- 
neath. In  winter  the  scenery  loses 
much  of  its  beauty,  but  nothing  more 
picturesque  can  be  imagined  than  the 
pass  in  the  month  of  October,  when 
the  trees  wear  a  great  variety  of  tints. 
Several  castles  perched  upon  heights 
in  front  of  the  puss  command  extensive 
views.  An  ascent  of  about  an  horn* 
and  a  half  brings  the  traveller  to  the 
crest  of  the  ridge,  where  the  waters 
flow  eastward.  The  same  time  will 
be  occupied  in  descending  the  pass  to 
the  station  of  Suram. 

There  are  G  stations  from  Suram  to 
Tiflis.     The   scenery  becomes  tamer; 
hills,  more  or  less  wooded,  rise  to  the 
rt.   and  1.   of  a  bare  plain,   througn 
wliich  a  metalled  road  has  not  yet 
been  constructed.     In  the  mountains 
near  Suram  is  a  watering-place  called 
Burjan,  to  which  the  Imperial  Lieu- 
tenant of  the  Caucasus  retires  in  sum- 
mer.     The    river    Kur,   the   ancient 
Cyrus,  takes  its  rise  in  tliat  district. 
The  town  ot  Gori  is  situated  upon  it  2 
stages  beyond  Suram.     Before  reach- 
ing it,  the  road  crosses  to  the  rt.  bank 
of  the  Kur.   The  town  is  not,  however, 
on  the  direct  road  to  Tiflis.     Its  high 
rock   is  visible  at  a  great  distance. 
There  are  some  interesting  ruins  in 
the    neighbourhood.      The    road    to 
Tiflis  follows  the  river.     Bare    hills 
rise  above  the  valley  of  the  Kur,  pre- 
senting a  complete    contrast  to  the 
richly-wooded  provinces    of  Imeritia 
and  Mingrelia.     Beyond  Gori  the  tra- 
veller will  pass  ISIiZKETTRA,  tho  an- 
cient residence  of  the  kings  of  Georgia. 
It  is  now  a  ruin,  still  however  con- 
taining 2  churches  of  some  sanctity, 
in  one  of  which  the  kings  of  Georgia 
were  crowned,  and  where  to  the  pre- 
sent day  the  bishops  of  Tiflis  are  con- 
secrated.    This  church  is  said  to  have 
been  erected  in  the  10th  cent.,  and  it 
was  laid  waste  by  Timiir.     The  road 
from  here  to  Tiflis  crosses  a  bridge, 
ascribed  by  tradition  to  Pompey.     At 
I  a  short  distance  from  Tiflis  the  Kur, 


322 


Boute  20.—Tifli8. 


Sect.  II. 


Russia. 


along  which  the  road  runs,  is  confined 
between  high  walls  of  rock  in  which 
are  many  artificial  caverns.  By 
travelling  as  conrier  without  inter- 
mission, on  the  second  day  after  quit- 
ting Kutais  the  traveller  will  reach 

TiFLis.  Pop.  01,000.  Tlie  seat  of 
government  of  tlie  Caucasus,  and  the 
residence  of  the  Imperial  Lieutenant. 

Hotels. — Caucase,  opposite  the  thea- 
tre (to  be  preferred,  being  kept  })y  a 
Frenchman)  ;  Hotel  d'ltalie ;  Hutel  de 
Paris  ;  and  Hotel  Debeque. 

Cimveyances.  —  Excellent  phaetons 
and  drojkics  may  bo  hired  by  tlie 
hour. 

History. — Tijlis  is  supposed  to  have 
existed  since  the  year  469,  when  the 
Georgian  monarchs  made  it  tiieir  resi- 
dence. It  derives  its  nnme  from  tlie 
mineral  springs  whicli  it  coutains. 
What  is  now  called  Georgia  was  an- 
ciently known  as  Iberia,  lying  between 
Coldiis  and  Albania.  Tiie  capital  of 
Iberia  was  Zelissa.  Iberia  was  not 
subjected  to  tlie  IModes  and  I'ersians, 
and  it  is  first  mentioned  in  Western 
lii  story  when  Pompey  penetrated 
through  it  to  Albania  on  the  Caspinn 
Sea.  Georgia  is  bounded  on  the  N. 
by  the  pass  of  Vladi-Kavkas,  anciently 
called  the  P///*  Caucasx.  It  formed 
part  of  the  Koman  empire  from  tlie 
time  of  Pompey,  and  was  afterwards 
long  tlie  theatre  of  contest  between 
the  Lower  Empire  and  the  Persians. 
From  the  8th  centy.,  or  still  earlier 
according  to  other  records,  dates  the 
rise  of  tlie  dynasty  of  the  Bagratides. 
wliicli  flourished  till  the  year  1801, 
when  Georgia  became  a  Russian  pro- 
vince. The  Bagratides  were  at  that 
time  the  oldest  reigning  family  in 
Europe,  if  not  in  the  world.  They 
asserted  their  descent  from  Kin<!; 
David  of  Israel.  Prince  Bagration,  so 
distinii^uished  in  his  struggle  with 
the  French,  and  who  fell  at  Borodino, 
was  the  descendant  of  the  kings  of 
Georgia.  Tlieraclius,  tlie  last  king  of 
Georgia,  was  forced  to  quit  his  capital 
on  the  approach  of  Aga  IVIahomed 
Klian,  the  first  Kajar  ruler  of  Persia. 
At  his  death  he  left  his  kingdom 
under  the  protection  of  Russia,  and  it 


was  shortly  after  incorporated  with 
the  Empire. 

Topography,  rfr. — Tlic  town,  which 
is  picturesquely  situated  uix)n  tlio 
banks  of  tlie  Kur,  with  a  distant 
view  of  Mount  Kazbek  and  the  moun- 
tain chain  of  the  Caucasus,  presents 
a  mixture  of  Oriental  and  European 
types.  It  has  a  l)oulevar(l  with  shops 
on  either  side,  and  with  the  principal 
jmblic  buildint!;s  along  it.  There  are  a 
few  other  European  stret^ts,  which  are, 
however,  unpaved,  and  therefore  al- 
most always  either  very  dusty  or  very 
muddy.  The  principal  building  is  a 
covered  square  bazaar,  with  rows  of 
shops  round  it,  and  with  the  opera- 
house  in  the  centre.  The  theatre  is 
a  very  handsome  building  when  seen 
from  the  inside.  The  palace  of  the 
Imperfal  Lieutenant  overlooks  the 
boulevard.  The  houses  of  the  chief 
civil  and  military  authorities,  scattered 
over  the  town,  are  handsomely  built. 
The  chief  resort  in  the  afternoon  is  the 
lavffe  jnihlic  (jarden  overlooking  the 
Kiir,  beyond  the  German  colony, 
which  is  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the  river. 
The  Kiir  is  crossed  within  the  town 
Ijy  2  bridges,  the  principal  of  which 
was  built  by  I'rince  Woronzofl*,  when 
Lieutenant  of  the  Caucasus.  A  statue 
of  the  prince  stands  at  one  end  of  it. 
INIost  of  the  foreiijrners  resident  in 
Tiflis  are  Germans  and  Frenchmen. 
The  former,  now  Russian  subjects,  arc^ 
descended  from  refugees  who  quitted 
Wurtemberg  to  enjoy  religious  liberty. 
The  German  colony  is  a  model  of  neat- 
ness and  prosperity.  Many  of  the  re- 
sident Frenchmen  visit  the  Trans-Cau- 
casian ])rovinces  every  year  to  pur- 
chase silkworms.  The  variety  of  cos- 
tumes to  be  seen  at  Tiflis  is  very  great 
and  interesting.  The  Circassian  and 
Daij^hestan  dresses  are  more  particu- 
larly picturesque.  The  Persian  jwpu- 
lation,  which  is  very  considerable,  is 
confined  to  the  lower  part  of  the  town, 
where  whole  streets  and  bazaars  are 
filled  with  their  houses  and  shojjs. 
The  mineral  baths  are  situated  in  the 
Persian  quarter  of  the  town.  An  ex- 
cellent view  of  the  whole  city  may  be 
o])tained  from  the  Botanical  Gardens 
above  the  town. 


Boutc  21. — Tiflis  to  Teller  an. 


823 


If 


The  climate  of  Tiflis  is  very  mild 
and  pleasant  in  winter,  but  in  summer 
it  is  intensely  hot.  It  is  in  fact  de- 
serted at  that  season  for  the  watering- 
2>laces  in  the  neighbourhood. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  Tiflis  are 
the  vineyards  of  Kahe'tie,  which  pro- 
duce the  wine  of  that  name.  It  is  of 
2  descriptions,  red  and  white,  and  is 
very  much  esteemed  throughout  Trans- 
Caucasia.  It  is  not  made  with  a  vi(;w 
to  being  long  preserved,  and  has 
therefore  not  been  much  exported, 
although  travellers  will  find  it  at 
IMoscow  and  St.  Petersburg.  As  it  is 
kept  in  leather  bags,  it  has  generally 
a  slight  flavour  of  leather.  It  is  ex- 
ceedingly cheap.  Foreign  wines,  and 
indeed  all  foreign  articles,  are  very 
dear  in  (icorgia;  English  porter,  for 
instance,  being  sold  at  the  rate  of  2  rs. 
a  l)ottle. 

From  Tiflis  travellers  can  either 
proceed  by  land  via  Ararat  and  Ta- 
breez,  or  take  the  steamer  at  Bakii  or 
Lenkoran  to  Resht  or  Astrabad  on  the 
Caspian. 


ROUTE  21. 

TIFLIS    TO    TEHERAN,    BY    ARARAT    AND 
TABREEZ. 

The  route  generally  followed  from 
Tiflis  to  Teheran  is  that  by  Erivan, 
the  Aras  (Araxes),  and  Tabreez.  The 
road  to  the  IVrsian  frontier  on  tln^ 
Aras  is  sometimes  more  or  less  inse- 


cure, but  travellers  are  furnished  with 
a  small  escort  where  necessary.  Be- 
tween Tiflis  and  Nakhitchevan  there 
is  a  post-road  with  stations,  where 
horses  can  be  obtained,  and  travellers 
can  sleep,  on  the  same  terms  as  be- 
tween INIaran  and  Tiflis. 

There  arc  17  stages  between  Tiflis 
and  Erivan,  which  may  be  reached  in 
about  3  days.  The  first  portion  of 
the  route  lies  through  a  bleak  and 
treeless  district,  which  presents  the 
most  common  features  of  Persian 
landscapes — large  plains  bounded  on 
either  side  by  hills.  A  bridge  will  be 
crossed  whicli  marks  the  point  to 
which  Abbas  Mirza  advanced  in  the 
last  war  between  Persia  and  Russia. 
The  scenery  improves  at  the  8th 
stage.  Beyond,  the  road  is  steep  and 
bad.  After  2  more  stages  the  scenery 
a.ssumes  an  entirely  opposite  character 
from  that  of  the  broad  dreary  plains 
previously  passed.  Wood,  streams, 
and  mountains,  with  rocks  crojiping 
out,  now  occur.  The  pass  of  Diligen 
is  equal  to  any  Swiss  scenery. 

The  Gulicheh  (or  Gotcha)  lahe 
bursts  suddenly  upon  the  view  at  the 
summit  of  the  pass.  The  lake  is  of 
considerable  extent,  and  jiroduces 
large  quantities  of  delicious  trout.  The 
road  for  somc^  distance  follows  the 
shore  of  the  lake,  and  one  stage  ends 
ujjon  it.  The  character  of  the  scenery 
for  some  distance  beyond  Gukcheh  is 
still  mountainous  and  wild,  and  at  the 
3rd  stage  before  Erivan  the  greater  and 
the  lesser  Ararat  are  seen  towering 
alx)ve  the  surrounding  plain.  The 
last  2  stages  into  Erivan  are  exceed- 
ingly rough  and  stony. 

Erivan  (Pop.  12,000),  excepting  in 
the  breadth  of  its  streets,  presents  the 
characteristics  of  a  Persian  city.  Its 
population  consists  chiefly  of  Arme- 
nians. It  is  overlof)ked  by  a  fort  which 
was  the  stronghold  of  the  Persian 
khans  before  tlie  province  was  ceded 
to  Russia  in  1828.  By  means  of  the 
extensive  system  of  canals  here  in 
use,  the  plain  of  Erivan  is  rendered 
very  fertile.  The  view  of  Mount 
Ararat  from  the  town  is  unbroken  by 
any  intervening  objects.     The  conceut 

Q  3 


324 


Boute  21. — NcikUtclievan  —  Tahreez, 


Sect.  II. 


Kussia. 


Boute  22. — Baka, 


325 


of  Etchniadzeen,  the  residence  of  the 
patriarch  of  the  Armenian  Church,  is 
12  m.  from  the  town,  tlie  road  to  it 
being  paraUel  to  one  side  of  Mount 
Ararat,  which  is  distant  about  30  m. 
from  Erivan.  The  cathedral  of  Etcli- 
miadzeen  is  built  chiefly  in  the  Byzan- 
tine style,  and  is  surrounded  by  high 
walls.  Among  the  monuments  to  tlie 
dead  who  repose  within  its  precincts  is 
a  marble  slab  to  the  memory  of  Sir 
John  Macdonald,  envoy  to  the  Shah  of 
Persia,  who  died  of  cholera  at  Tabreez. 
There  is  an  unwillingness  on  the  part 
of  the  monks  to  show  their  library. 
The  next  station  of  imi)ortancc  is 

Nakhitchevan  (Pop.  GOOO),  a  dis- 
trict town,  reached  after  7  stages. 
The  road  from  Erivan  passes  to  tlie 
otlicr  side  of  Ararat  from  that  on 
which  stands  the  monastery  of  Etcli- 
miadzeen.  Tlie  Nakhitchevan  road  is 
on  the  E.  Behind  ^Mount  Ararat  and 
adjoining  it  stands  the  lesser  Ararat. 
Rising  directly  from  the  plain,  nothing 
can  be  more  striking  and  majestic  than 
the  solitary  Ararat,  with  two  peaks 
on  the  same  pedestal.  The  higher  of 
the  two  is  covered  with  snow  all  the 
year  round,  and  i)resents  great  ditli- 
culties  to  those  who  attempt  to  reach 
its  summit.  The  heat  at  Nakhitchevan 
is  frequently  excessive. 

Hence  to  the  Persian  frontier  on  the 
Araxes  is  a  drive  of  4  hrs.  down  a 
gradual  descent.  Either  power  has 
a  frontier  station  on  the  river,  which 
here  flows  through  a  scene  wild  and 
desolate  to  a  degree.  A  strong  wind 
is  almost  constantly  blowing,  so  that 
tents  can  with  dilliculty  be  pitched, 
and  are  in  constant  danger  of  falling. 
Travellers  put  up  at  the  new  station- 
house. 

From  the  Araxes  to  Tabreez  is  a 
distance  of  about  80  m.,  which  is 
equally  divided  into  4  stages.  At  the 
end  of  the  2nd  stage,  at  tlie  town  of 
Marend,  the  road  joins  the  highway 
from  Erzeroum  to  Tabreez.  The  day 
after  leaving  Marend  the  traveller 
will  arrive  at 

Tabreez,  which  covers  an  immense 
space  in  the  midst  of  a    large  plain 


flanked  by  bare  hills.  It  is  supposed 
to  be  identical  with  the  ancient  Gan- 
saca  or  Gaza,  which  was  the  capital 
of  Atropatena.  The  modern  name  of 
the  province  is  Azerbijan.  From  its 
extent  and  fertility  it  is  the  most  im- 
portant province!  in  Persia,  and  is 
usually  committed  to  the  care  of  the 
heir-apparent.  Tabreez  has  undergone 
many  changes.  It  was  a  favourite 
residence  of  Haroun  al  Raschid, 
and  it  continued  to  flourish  notwith- 
standing all  it  suflered  from  war  and 
earthquakes ;  but  it  gradually  sank 
down  until  within  the  last  20  years, 
when  the  European  trade  through 
Erzeroum  and  Trebizond  has  caused 
it  once  more  to  become  one  of  the  most 
populous  and  flourishing  cities  of 
Persia.  Its  Pop.  is  estimated  at  between 
200,000  and  800,000  souls.  It  fell  into 
the  hands  of  the  Russians  in  the  course 
of  their  last  war  with  Persia,  but  was 
given  up  by  the  treaty  of  Turkmanchai. 
The  plain  of  Tabreez  is  4000  feet  above 
tlie  sea,  and  for  5  months  of  each  year 
it  is  covered  with  snow.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  5  stages  from  Tabreez  is  the 
town  and  district  of  Urumiah,  the  head- 
quarters of  an  American  mission  which 
labours  among  the  Nestorian  Christians 
of  Persia.  There  is  a  road  hence  to 
Bagdad. 

There  is  an  English  and  a  Russian 
consulate  at  Tabreez,  and  a  larger 
European  pop.  than  in  any  other  town 
in  Persia. 

There  is  a  tolerably  good  horse-road 
from  Tabreez  to  Teheran,  the  country 
for  the  whole  way  being  bare  of  trees, 
except  round  an  occasional  stream  or 
in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of 
villages.  The  distance  to  the  capital 
is  a  little  less  than  400  m. ;  and  when 
the  road  has  been  in  a  bad  state,  tra- 
vellers have  taken  17  days  to  perform 
the  journey.  The  cotton  and  castor- 
oil  plants  are  cultivated  in  occasional 
patches  for  the  last  three-fourths  of  the 
way..  Travellers  pass  tlie  night  in 
tents,  one  set  of  which  should  be  sent 
on  to  the  halting-place  the  night  be- 
fore, in  order  to  be  ready  on  arrival 
after  the  next  day's  march,  which  is 
always  commenced  in  the  cool  of  the 
morning.     A  small  tent  should  like- 


V.-. : 


wise  ]ye  sent  on  for  breakfasting  in, 
half-way  to  the  end  of  the  stage.  In 
this  manner  travelling  in  Persia  is  not 
disagreeable,  even  at  tlie  hottest  season 
of  the  year. 


ROUTE  22. 

TIFLIS  TO  TEHERAN,  BY  BAKU  OR  LEN- 
KORAN, AND  RESHT  OR  ASTKABAD,  ON 
THE    CASPIAN. 

Travellers  wishing  to  embark  either 
at  Baku  or  Lenkoran  must  take  the 
post  route  to  Shemakha,  by  way  of 
Elizavetpol. 

The  road  from  Tiflis  to  Elizavetpol, 
distant  194  v.  (129  m.),  is  very  good. 
The  Persian  name  of  Elizavetpol  was 
Gunja.  The  posthouse  is  within  the 
town,  which  possesses  broad  streets 
shaded  with  trees. 

There  are  12  stages  between  Eliza- 
vetpol and  Shemakha.  At  the  0th 
stage  the  road  enters  the  mountains 
with  a  very  abrui)t  ascent  further  on. 
The  view  from  the  top  extends  over  an 
immense  plain  behind.  The  town  of 
Shemakha  wears  a  melancholy  and 
deserted  aspect.  It  was  the  capital 
of  the  province,  and  contained  70,000 
Inhab. ;  but  it  was  visited  by  earth- 
quake after  eartlKjuake,  and  the  seat 
of  local  government  was  transferred  to 
Bakii  on  the  Caspian.  It  is,  however, 
noted  for  its  wine.  The  ancient  name 
of  Shemakha  was  IMamechia. 

The  road  from  here  branches  into 
two:  that  to  the  1.  leading  to  Baku 


112  V.  (75  m.)  ;  that  to  the  rt.  to  Len- 
KOPtAN,  243  V.  (102  m.)  distant. 

Between  the  middle  of  April  and  the 
middle  of  October,  steamers  leave  As- 
trakhan once  a  fortnight  for  Ashurade 
island,  opposite  Astrabad,  touching  at 
Petrofskoe,  Derbend,  Bakii,  Lenkoran, 
Astera,  Enzelli,  and  Meshedi-sir.  Dur- 
ing the  other  6  months  of  the  year 
the  northern  portion  of  the  Caspian  is 
frozen,  and  the  traffic  on  the  water  is 
confined  to  the  part  between  Bakii  and 
Ashurade'.  In  this  half  of  the  year 
steamers  run  once  a  month  between 
the  two  latter  ports,  calling  at  the  in- 
termediate points. 

Baku  is  the  ancient  Getara,  and  for 
a  long  time  formed  part  of  the  do- 
minions of  the  Persian  kings.  It  was 
taken  by  Peter  the  Great,  who  sur- 
rounded it  with  its  present  wall  and 
ditch.  It  subsequently  again  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  Persians,  and 
finally  became  a  port  of  the  Russian 
empire  at  the  beginning  of  this 
centy.  It  is  now  the  seat  of  adminis- 
tration of  a  province.  Its  harbour  is 
the  best  in  the  Caspian  Sea,  and  it 
possesses  the  advantage  of  being  open 
all  the  year  round.  It  is  intended  to 
construct  a  rly.  from  this  town  to  Poti. 
The  Pop.  of  Bakii  is  estimated  at 
12,000,  divided  between  the  fortified 
town  and  the  Persian  quarter  outside. 
The  peninsula  on  which  the  town  is 
placed  is  bare  and  sandy,  and  the  fort 
is  commanded  by  the  adjoining  hills. 
Bakii  is  celebrated  for  tlie  ever-burn- 
ing fires  of  naphtha  in  its  neighbour- 
hood, which  are  tended,  not  as  might 
be  supposed  by  fire-worshipi)ers  from 
Persia,  but  by  a  succession  of  devotees 
from  India.  Both  the  earth  and  the 
water  near  Bakli  are  strongly  im- 
pregnated with  naphtha,  and  when 
this  substance  is  allowed  to  burn  one 
of  the  strangest  possible  appearances 
is  presented  to  the  view.  The  entrance 
to  the  harbour  is  lighted  from  the 
Maidens  Tower,  to  which  a  romantic 
story  is  attached. 

The  route  between  Astrabad  and 
Teheran  is  more  interesting  than  that 
from  Enzelli  to  Teheran.  It  may  be 
varied  in  several  ways, but  the  traveller 


326 


Boute  23. — Lenlcoran  to  Teheran, 


Sect.  II. 


will  always  pass  through  beautiful 
mountain  and  forest  scenery,  and  by 
places  of  historical  interest. 

For  the  benefit  of  those  who  prefer 
the  land  journey  from  Lenkoran  or 
Eesht  to  Teheran,  wliich  from  the  be- 
ginning of  Ai)ril  to  the  en<l  of  October 
is  the  most  economical  and  least  fa- 
tiguing (when  taken  in  connection 
with  the  Caspian  and  Volga  route  to 
St.  Petersburg),  we  subjoin  a  sketch  of 
the  route. 


ROUTE  23. 

LENKOHAX  TO  TKTIERAN,  IIY  LAND,   VIA 
IlESHT. 

From  Lenkoran,  where  travellers 
with  letters  of  introduction  to  the 
Russian  military  autliorities  have  been 
most  liospitaljly  received,  the  <listunce 
tf)  AsTARA,  on  the  Persian  and  Russian 
frontier,  is  23  v.,  tlie  road  lying  all  the 
way  along  the  s(a-shor(.\  Tlie  journey 
is  made  on  horicljack  with  an  escort  of 
C'ossacks.  I'assports  an;  sliown  at  tlie 
custom-house  on  the  stream  which 
sejjarates  Russia  from  Persia. 

Mules  can  bt;  engaged  at  Astara  for 
Resht  and  Kazvin.  The  ordinary  price 
is  a  keran  and  a  half  or  two  kerans  a 
day.*  The  distance  to  Knzelli  is  about 
02  m.,  which  is  made  at  the  rate  of 
i>  or  i)^  m.  an  hour.  Wooded  hillsri.se 
in  constant  succession  behind  and  on 


*  Thoso  nmlftpprs  nro  generally  ctipaRi  tl  in 
travelling  Ijetween  Astara  anil  Tabret^z,  by  the 
nionntaJnous  way  of  Ardcbccl — a  journey  of 
7  da\>. 


either  side  of  wooded  valleys.  Dozens 
of  streams  of  considerable  breadth  will 
have  to  be  passed.  The  Russian 
I  steamers  on  the  Caspian  are  su])plied 
I  with  wofxl  from  the  forests  of  Talish, 
which  will  be  passed.  A  great  quantity 
of  charcoal  is  also  jjrepared  in  those 
forests  for  the  IVrsian  and  Russian 
markets.  The  coa.st  gradually  rounds 
I  off  to  the  E.,  forming  by  its  niaiestic 
sweeps  a  number  of  splendid  Ijays. 
The  villages  along  the  coast  are 
very  few  and  far  betw(X'n.  The  ac- 
connnodation  in  the  cottages  is  very 
bad,  and  provisions  are  difficult  to  be 
obtained. 

Riding  for  about  10  m.  along  a  neck 
of  land  that  separates  the  lake  of  En- 
zelli  from  the  Casi)ian,  tlu^  traveller 
will  reach  Exzei.li,  a  small  town  en- 
joying a  mild  climate,  in  which  the 
orange-tree  flourishes.  It  stands  to 
the  1.  of  the  narrow  j»a.ssage  by  which 
tlu;  lake  communicates  with  the  sea, 
and  which  is  commanded  l>y  a  Persian 
battery  that  prevents  steamers  from 
entering  the  lake. 

The  laki;  of  Enzelli,  about  18  m. 
long  by  12  in  breadth,  is  crossed  in  a 
boat.  There  are  several  marshy  islands 
(m  it,  where  thousands  of  water-fowl 
take  refuge.  The  jungle  is  tenanted 
bv  tiurers  and  wild  boars.  Tlu-  river 
of  Pir-lJazanr  will  be  entered  after  a 
voyage  of  alx)ut  4  lirs.  The  boat  is 
tugged  up  the  stream  to  the  end  of 
the  road  to  Resht.  The  (5  miles  of 
mar.sh  that  lie  to  the  N.  of  that  town 
have  taken  2}  lirs.  to  accomplish  on 
horse-back  in  winter,  when  tlu^  road  is 
almo.st  impassable  even  with  the  .small 
hor.ses  tliat  are  expressly  trained  for 
the  work. 

Resht  is  the  capital  of  Gilan,  one  of 
the  3  Caspian  provinces  of  I'ersia,  and 
was  anci<ntly  inhabited  by  the  GcIjb. 
The  inhal).  s]ieak  a  language  peculiar 
to  the  province,  and  many  of  them  do 
not  under.stand  I'ersian.  Resht  is  at 
the  present  tl:iy  the  centre  of  a  con- 
siderable trade.  Si'veral  Euroi)ean 
merchants  reside  in  the  tf)wn,  as  well 
as  the  consuLs  of  England.  France,  and 
Ru.ssia.  The  streets,  jiaved  with  small 
stones,  are  in  some  instances  broad  and 


Eussia. 


Boiite  23. — Kazvin, 


327 


good,  and  the  city  is  well  shaded  by 
the  trees  that  grow  freely  within  it ; 
but  as  a  residence,  Resht  is  feverish 
and  gloomy.  The  distance  hence  to 
'JY'heran  is  rather  hss  than  200  m. 
There  are  ten  ix)st  stages  between  the 
two  points. 

The  road  to  Kazvin  follows,  at  the 
end  of  the  1st  stage,  the  1.  bank  of  the 
8etid-rud,  a  large  river  that  flows  into 
the  Caspian  to  the  E.  of  Resht,  be- 
tween high  mountains  covered  with 
Wfjod.  Amongst  the  trees  are  the 
mulberry,  the  walnut,  the  pomegra- 
nate, tlio  fig-tree,  and  the  ash.  The 
chief  timber-tree  is  the  azad,  and  that 
most  remarkable  for  beauty  is  the  silk 
acacia-tree. 

At  IMenzil  travellers  ascend  the 
northern  slope  of  the  Elburz  mountains, 
at  the  summitof  which  a  beautiful  view 
of  the  vast  valleys  l)elow  will  be  ob- 
tained. From  the  bleak  station-house 
at  the  summit  of  the  pass  a  journey  of 
al)out  27  m.  will  bring  the  traveller  to 
Kazvin. 

Kazvin,  like  many  other  cities  in 
Persia,  has  seen  better  days.  From 
this  district  sprang  the  Sefavean  kings 
who  made  Kazvin  their  capital.  It 
was  succeeded  by  Is])alian,  but  it  was 
not  until  the  cai)ital  had  in  turn  been 
transferred  to  Teheran  tliat  Kazvin 
dwindled  into  its  present  insignificant 
condition.  It  was  to  Kazvin  that  the 
Emperor  Ileraclius  penetrated  before 
he  turned  oft"  towards  Ispahan  on  his 
second  expedition  into  Persia.  In  the 
time  of  its  gr(.'atne.ss  Kazvin  contained 
a  Pop.  of  more  than  100,000  .souls;  but 
at  present,  although  the  city  is  the 
same  in  extent  as  formerly,  the  Inhab, 
do  not  number  more  than  40,000. 
Tlio  town  stands  in  a  spacious  plain, 
which,  although  not  watered  artifi- 
cially, is  rich  in  gardens  and  culti- 
vated land. 

In  the  mountains  near  Kazvin  arc 
the  ruins  of  the  stronghold  of  the  chief 
of  the  Assassins,  known  also  by  the 
ai)pellation  of  ''the  Old  INIan  of  the 
Mountain."  Those  miscreants,  Ma- 
homedan  sectaries,  were  governed  for 
IGO  years  by  a  succession  of  chiefs,  to 


whom  they  paid  a  complete  and 
blind  devotion.  It  is  said  in  Marco 
I*olo's  Travels  tliat  youths  of  this  sect 
were  reported  as  being  introduced 
into  a  large  garden  fitted  up  as  far 
as  possible  with  the  requirements  of 
a  Moslem  Paradise.  The}  awoke 
in  the  garden  after  a  deep  sleep  pro- 
longed by  drugs,  and  their  chief 
taught  them  that  they  had  already 
passed  the  gate  of  deatli.  They  held 
the  doctrine  of  the  transmigration  of 
souls,  and  looked  on  their  chief  as  the 
Vicar  of  God.  Hislieutenont  governed 
the  colony  of  Mount  Libanus,  so 
famous  and  formidable  in  the  history 
of  the  Crusades,  The  Assassins  of 
Persia  were  exterminated  by  Holagon 
Khan,  the  grandson  of  Genghi.s,  and 
those  of  Syria  by  the  Mamelukes. 

There  are  5  stages,  of  which  the  first 
2  are  short,  between  Kazvin  and  Kerij, 
a  small  town  or  village,  where  there 
is  a  large  palace  belonging  to  the  shah. 
It  is  situated  on  a  broad  and  deep 
river,  a  portion  of  the  water  of  which 
is  conveyed  by  a  canal  to  Teheran. 
The  soil  is  so  porous  that  only  a 
seventh  part  of  the  water  reaches  the 
city  ;  the  remainder  flows  down  to  the 
S.E.  until  it  is  joined  by  the  river  of 
Jageriid.  Most  of  the  water  of  these 
streams  is  employed  in  fertilising  the 
districts  througii  which  they  flow. 
Tile  Kerij  river  comes  out  of  a  deep 
gorge  in  the  mountains  a  short  distance 
above  the  town.  It  may  be  traced 
with  some  difficulty  up  to  its  source 
in  the  Elburz.  It  afibrds  good  fishing, 
the  trout  found  in  it  being  both  large 
and  excellent.  There  is  some  shooting 
likewise  to  be  had  near  Kerij,  par- 
ticularly hares  and  partridges.  Two 
stages  more  will  bring  the  traveller 
over  a  bleak  district,  having  the  bare 
Elburz  mountains  on  one  side  and 
a  low  range  of  hills  far  away  on  the 
other,  to 

Teheran,  the  capital  of  Persia. 


328 


Boute  24. — London  to  Persia. 


Sect.  II. 


ROUTE  24. 

LONDON  TO  PERSIA,   BY  WAY  OP 
ST.   PETEKSBLKG. 

To  St.  Petersburg  by  Rte.  1. 

To  Moscow  by  lite.  (J. 

To  Nijni-Novgorod  by  Rte.  8. 

To  Astrakhan  by  Rte.  9. 

Between  Astrakhan  tnul  Reslit,  nnd 
Astrabad  in  Persia,  tlieie  is  a  service  of 
steamers  that  touch  at  Petrofskoe',  Der- 
bend,  Bakii,  and  Lenkoran,  as  already 
stated.  The  Ist-class  fare  from  Astra- 
khan to  Enzelii  is  30  rs.,  not  inchiding 
the  charge  for  wine  and  tabk'.  All  the 
charges,  however,  are  very  moderate. 
The  voyage  occupies  aboiit  5  days. 

Travellers  who  prefer  proceeding 
through  Tijlis  leave  the  Volga  at 
TsAuiTsiN,  when  they  take  the  Volga- 
Don  Railway  {vide  Rte.  18)  to  Ka- 
LATCH,  on  the  Don,  from  whence 
steamers  navigate  that  river,  which  are 
in  correspondunce  witli  the  steamers 
upon  the  Sea  of  Azof,  between  Taganrog 
and  Kerteh,  and  wliich  correspond 
again  with  the  Russian  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company's  steamers  to  Poti. 

Instead  of  proceeding  from  Kerteh 
to  Poti  by  steamer,  travellers  can  cross 
over  from  Kerteh  to  Taman,  and  travel 
by  road  from  Taman  to  Tillis,  by  way 
of  Stavropol,  Vladikavkaz,  and  the  de- 
file of  Dariel,  thus  traversing  the  chain 
of  the  Caucasus  mountiiins.  If  this 
route  is  taken  it  would  be  worth  while 
to  visit  Piatigorsk,  celebrated  for  its 
mhieral  waters,  situated  between  Stav- 
ropol and  Vladikavkaz, 

At  Vladikavkaz  there  is  a  good 
hotel. 

Between  Vladikavkaz  and  Tiflis 
good  accommodation  can  be  obtained 
at  the  station-houses  which  have  been 
recently  constructed  for  the  conveni- 
ence of  travellers. 


There  is  a  regular  service  of  omni- 
buses between  Vladikavkaz  and  Tillis. 

The  scenery  of  this  route  is  very 
fine ;  the  road  for  a  great  part  of  the 
way  follows  the  windings  of  the  Terek 
ton-ent.  At  the  station-house  of  Kaz- 
bek a  magnificent  view  is  obtained  of 
Mount  Kazbek. 


ROUTE  25. 

LONUON  TO  PEKIN,  VIA  ST.  PETERSBURG, 
KIAKHTA,   AND   JIONGOLIA.* 

(yide  Boutes  to  St.  Fetershurg,  Moscow ^ 
Nijni-Nocgorody  and  Volga.) 

[Read  ISIichie's  *  Siberian  Route 
from  Pckin  to  St.  Petersburg,'  18G5.] 

Many  travellers,  of  both  sexes,  have 
already  performed  tiie  overland  journey 
to  and  from  Pekin  l)y  way  of  Kiakhta, 
and  reported  favourably  on  thu  facility 
with  which  it  may  be  accomplished, 
notwithstanding  even  a  complete  ignor- 
ance of  the  Russian  language.  The 
summer  is  to  be  preferred  for  this 
journey,  which  may  be  performed, 
travelling  without  intermission,  in 
about  50  days  from  London  to  Pekin. 

From  Nijni-Novgorod  the  traveller 
will  proceed  to  Kazan,  and  thence, 
still  bv  steamer,  to  I'erm,  on  the  river 
Kama,  which  will  be  reached  in  about 
a  week.  An  hotel  has  been  established 
at  l*erm  by  a  steamboat  company,  where 
travellers  are  accommodated  at  a  rea- 

*  As  few,  if  any,  English  travellers  will  visit 
SilxTia,  until  sonio  of  ilii'  Siberian  railways,  as 
yet  only  in  contemplation,  ^hall  have  l)een 
ojxned,  it  is  not  necess;iry  to  give  more  than 
a  sketch  of  the  routes  to  Kiakhta.  A  proper 
description  of  the  route,  partly  by  rail,  must  be 
reserved  lor  the  next  edition. 


Kussia. 


Boute  25. — London  to  Pekin, 


329 


sonable  rate.  A  large  cannon-foundry, 
employing  1500  workmen,  is  situated 
at  about  3  m.  from  the  town.  The 
scenery  on  the  Kama  is  of  the  grandest 
description. 

From  Perm  the  only  mode  of  travel- 
ling is  by  post.  Here  the  traveller 
has  to  obtain  a  podorojna,  or  order  for 
horses.  Three  kinds  of  conveyances 
ore  available  :  the  telega,  or  cart  with- 
out springs,  which  has  to  be  changed 
at  every  station,  and  for  which  a  charge 
of  about  8(7.  is  made  at  every  stage ;  the 
kibitka,  or  cart  (in  winter  a  sledge) 
with  a  hood ;  and  the  tarantas,  a  kind 
of  carriage  on  wooden  springs,  wliich 
admits  of  the  traveller  lying  down  full 
length,  and  which  can  be  made  very 
comfortable  at  niglit.  The  two  latter 
vehicles  will  have  tr>  Ije  purchased  or 
hired  at  Perm,  if  the  telega,  or  postal 
conveyance,  be  not  accepted.  A  ta- 
rantas may  be  bought  for  12/.  to  15?. 

Beyond  Perm  travellers  must  be  pro- 
vided with  everything  they  may  require 
on  the  journey*  in  the  shape  of  tea, 
coffee,  sugar,  wine,  spirits,  preserved 
meats,  milk,  &c.  Most  luxuries  are  to 
be  procured  at  Irkutsk,  but  the  traveller 
will  do  well  to  bring  with  him  from 
England  till  the  more  modern  appli- 
ances for  travelling.  An  English  saddle 
is  of  great  use,  and  travellers  are  re- 
commended to  purchase  a  good  map  at 
St.  Petersburg,  hi  coming  from  China 
it  is  of  course  necessary  to  lay  in  a 
stock  of  provisions  for  a  fortnight  or  3 
weeks. 

Ekaterinburg,  3G4  versts  from  Perm, 
is  next  reached,  the  road  being  partly 
through  the  Ural  Mountains,  whicij 
present  the  most  beautiful  views.  At 
the  central  line  of  the  Ural  stands  a 
marble  obelisk,  on  one  side  of  which  is 
engraved  the  word  Euroije,  and  on  the 
other  the  word  Asia.  Ekaterinburg  is 
a  town  of  much  importance,  as  the 
centre  of  the  minnig  districts,  and 
the  seat  of  "The  Administration  of 
the  Mines."  It  has  21,000  Inhab. 
There  is  a  mint  for  copper  coinage, 
also  an  establishment  belonging  to  the 
Crown  for  cutting  and  polishing  gems, 
and  a  steam  factory  superintended  by 
an  Englishman.  The  gold-washings  in 
the  uei;;hbourhood  should  Ije  visited. 


Travellers  will  be  beset  by  dealers  in 
precious  stones,  which  may  be  pur- 
chased very  cheap. 

After  two  days'  travelling,  the  town 
of  Tinmen,  300  versts  distant,  will  be 
reached.  There  is  an  engineering  esta- 
blishment here,  under  the  management 
of  an  Englishman.  Tug-steamers  ply 
between  Tinmen  and  Omsk,  distant 
327  V.  by  road,  but,  as  they  leave  at 
intervals  of  a  fortnight,  the  traveller 
to  whom  speed  is  an  object  will  prefer 
the  telega  or  tarantas.  The  road  from 
hence  to  Omsk  is  generally  very  bad, 
especially  in  autumn.  The  only  pro- 
visions to  be  obtained  are  milk  and 
black  bread.  It  sometimes  takes  a 
week  to  make  this  stage.  Omsk  is 
a  town  of  about  18,000  Inhab.,  with 
little  to  interest  a  stranger. 

To3isK,  the  next  large  town,  is  87G 
V.  distant,  and  may  be  reached  in  four 
days.  The  road  over  the  Barabinsk 
Steppe  is  good. 

From  Tomsk  the  country  becomes 
more  hilly  and  picturesque,  the  birch 
being  almost  entirely  succeeded  by  fir- 
trees.  As  soon  as  the  province  of  Ye- 
nisei is  entered,  the  road  will  be  found 
as  good  and  well-kept  as  any  in  Eng- 
land. 

Krasnoyarsk,  554^  v.  distant,  reached 
in  3  days,  is  a  town  on  the  banks  of  the 
Yenisei,  pleasantly  situated,  and  shel- 
tered by  hills  of  moderate  elevation. 

Ikki  TSK,  the  largest  town  in  Siberia, 
and  numbering  25,000  Inhab.,  is  1003 
V.  farther.  Kansk  and  Nijne-Udinsk 
are  the  only  towns  on  this  stage,  but 
villages  occur  every  10  or  15  miles. 
This  highway  is  much  frequented. 
Irkutsk  is  the  seat  of  government  of 
Eastern  Siberia.  Purchased  vehicles 
had  better  be  sold  here,  and  the  postal 
carts  made  use  of. 

Three  stages  beyond  Irkutsk  is  List- 
vcnitchnaya,  the  place  of  embarkation 
for  the  lake  of  Baikal  (112  v.  wide  and 
1800  v.  long),  which  is  crossed  in  a 
steamer,  and  from  which  passengers 
are  landed  in  small  boats.  Fare,  8  rs. 
In  winter  the  lake  is  crossed  over  the 
ice. 

Two  more  days'  travelling  will  bring 

the  traveller  through  Yerkhne-Udinsk 

:  and  Selengiusk  to  Kiakhta,  the  border 


3P>0 


Route  25. — London  to  Pekin, 


Sect.  IL 


town  between  "Russia  and  China ;  the 
whole  distance  traversed  from  Nijni- 
Novgorod  being  about  5270  v.,  or  3513 
miles.  The  cliarge  for  horses  is  3  co- 
pecks per  horse  per  verst  to  Tinmen, 
and  l.j  copeck  thence  1o  Kiakhta. 
The  post  travels  tliis  distance  in  27 
days. 

At  Kiaklita  the  traveller  will  have 
to  make  his  preparations  for  crossing 
the  desert  of  (iJobi.  He  may  depend 
upon  meeting  with  every  protection  on 
the  part  of  the  Russian  authorities,  pro- 
vided he  has  brought  letters  of  recom- 
mendation from  St.  Petersburg,  which 
may  be  obtained  through  H.31.  Em- 
bassy. It  is  also  advisable  to  cause  the 
Chinese  officials  at  Maimachin,  and 
other  places,  to  be  apprise*!  of  the 
traveller's  intention  of  proceeding  to 
rdvin  by  way  of  Mongolia.  This 
should  he  done  on  leaving  England, 
by  a  letter  addressed  to  H.]\[.  Lega- 
tion in  China.  The  courier  service 
to  Pekin  is  being  much  imi^rovi-d  and 
accelerated,  and  will  be  made  available 
to  travellers,  who,  until  now,  have 
generally  been  obliged  to  engage 
camels,  and  to  join  caravans.  Covered 
carts  are  almost  the  oidy  vehicles  to 
be  obtained.  It  is  customary  for 
caravans  to  travel  IG  hours  a  day,  and 
then  to  come  to  a  halt  for  cfK)king, 
eating,  and  sleeping.  There  is  plenty 
of  good  mutton  to  be  had  on  the  way, 
but  all  other  provisions  have  to  Ix)  pur- 
chased either  at  Kiakhta  or  Pekin. 
The  Mongols  are  most  trustworthy  in 
their  transactions,  and  the  traveller 
may  feel  in  perfect  safety  throughout 
the  journey.  July  and  August  are 
verv  hot  months  in  the  desert,  and 
the  beginning  of  October  is  already 
very  cold.  The  journey  between 
Kiaklita  and  l*ekin  is  best  performed 
in  I\Iay. 

The  first  part  of  the  journey  from 
Kiakhta  is  over  a  mountainous  tract, 
and  the  desert  only  begins  a  little  be- 
yond Urga,  the  sacred  city  of  the  ]Mon- 
gols,  with  a  Pop.  of  10;000  to  P2,000 
lamas.  Midway  between  this  and  a 
small  Chinese  town,  4  m.  off,  is  a  Rus- 
sian consulate,  where  a  cordial  recep- 
tion may  Ix^  ilepended  upon.  Tiiere  is 
very  little  water  Ix^yond  Urga,  and  it 


has  to  bo  obtained  from  small  wells 
some  distance^  off  the  track,  where  the 
only  fuel  to  be  had  is  dried  cow-dung. 
The  use  of  money  is  as  yet  almost  un- 
known iu  this  part  of  the  country; 
brick-tea,  cut  up  into  slices,  being  the 
token  of  value  mo^t  recognised;  but 
small  l)rass  buttons  are  highly  j)rized. 
Caravans  take  a  fortnight  to  travel 
over  the  bare  and  slightly  undnb  ting 
stepp*.'  of  Gobi,  but  couriers  can  per- 
form the  entire  journey  between 
Kiakhta  and  Pekin  iu  12  days,  and 
even  less. 

China  proper  is  entered  by  a  pass 
in  tlie  Kiuuran  mountains,  5100  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  very  pre- 
cipitous and  rugged.  The  view  is 
magnificent. 

At  Kalgan,  a  large  town  through 
which  the  gri'at  wall  of  China  runs,  the 
carts  are  abandoned  for  mule-litters. 
Two  or  three  days  may  well  be  spent 
atKalgan  in  exploring  the  mona.steries 
in  the  neighbourhood.  In  coming  from 
China,  camels  are  engaged  at  Pekin  for 
Kiakhta.  The  customary  rate  of  hire 
is  from  12  to  15  taels  per  camel,  but 
travellers  have  paid  as  much  as  45  taels 
for  animals  that  only  realized  3  taels 
a-head  at  Kiakhta.  Several  Russian 
mercantile  firms  are  established  at 
Kalgan,  the  members  of  which  have 
been  very  kind  to  European  tra- 
vellers. 

The  day  after  leaving  Kalgan  tra- 
vellers begin  to  ascend  a  rugged  moun- 
tain pass,  the  town  of  Saching  being 
reached  the  next  day.  Here  travellers 
sleep  at  an  inn  very  badly  sui)j)lied 
with  comforts.  The  next  night  may  l»o 
spent  at  Chatavu,  a  fort  on  the  inner 
or  ancient  Great  "Wall  of  China.  This 
place  is  at  the  foot  of  a  formidable 
mountain-range,  the  pass  over  which, 
17  miles  in  length,  occupies  half  a  day, 
and  is  20  to  25  miles  from  Pekin.  The 
mountain  scenery  is  of  the  grandest 
description,  the  road  passing  among 
rugged  and  precipitous  crags.  The 
village  of  Sha-ho  is  the  next  halting- 
place,  and  Pekin  may  be  reache<l  by  an 
easy  stage  next  day,  the  road  lying 
through  a  sandy  j)lain,  on  which  the 
du.st  rises  in  clouds;  and  there  this 
book  must  leave  the  traveller's  hands. 


KINGDOM  OF  POLAND. 


kf  v'W  WV  x/>/V^  W^r^f  W WW V>>  V  WX/ «■ 


*.ww*»*.vwww^rt»-v»rv^i's»v>r»rwwwvN.  v  wx/xvwn.  « 


SECTION  III.— KINGDOM  OF  POLAND. 


INTRODUCTION. 


PAGE 

1 .  Historical  Notice      333 

2.  Statistics  ..      ..      339 

3.  Social  Condition       339 

4.  Political  Administration  ..       ..  341 

5.  Agriculture,  Industry,  and  Com- 

merce      342 


PAGE 

6.  Postinor 343 

7.  Lano;uao;e 343 

8.  Words  and  Phrases 345 

9.  Literature         349 

10.  Measures,  Weights,  and  Coins  ..    349 


1. — Historical  Notice. 

For  most  Enpilisli  readers  the  history  of  Poland  begins  with  Poland*s  mis- 
fortunes. Put  aside  Sobieski's  great  victory  outside  the  walls  of  Vienna, 
and  few  Englishmen  can  mention  any  important  events  in  Polish  history 
l)rior  to  the  lirst  partition  and  the  guerilla  war  waged  by  the  Confederates 
of  Bar ;  the  second  partition,  Ibllowed  as  it  was  by  the  insurrection  of 
Kosciusko ;  and  the  third  i)artition,  after  which,  for  twenty  years  (from 
1795  until  1815),  the  very  name  of  Poland  disappeared. 

The  early  history  of  Poland,  however,  has  been  fully  treated  by  a  series 
of  native  historians.  Dlugosz,  or  Dlugossius,  his  Latinised  name,  or 
Longinus,  the  Latin  equivalent  for  it,  begins  his  history  from  the  earhest 
period  of  the  Polish  annals,  and  carries  it  down  to  the  year  1480.  It  is 
written  in  the  Latin  language,  as  were  all  Polish  historical  and  legal  works 
until  the  eighteenth  century.  The  first  history  of  Poland  in  the  Polish 
language  wa^s  not  composed  until  the  reign  of  Stanislas  Augustus,  when 
the  independent  existence  of  the  country  was  about  to  cease. 

Polish  history  up  to  the  time  of  the  partition  was  usually  divided  into 
four  i)eriods.  During  the  first  of  these  Poland  was  governed  by  sovereigns 
of  the  House  of  Lekh ;  during  the  second  by  sovereigns  of  the  House  of 
Piast ;  during  the  third  by  the  Jagellon  dynasty ;  during  the  fourth  by 
kinirs  of  various  families. 

The  first  ])eriod  has  generally  been  looked  upon  as  altogether  fabulous, 
and  the  second  as  fabulous  in  a  great  measure.  But  Mickiewicz  the  poet, 
and  Szainocha  and  Moraczewski  the  historians,  have  done  much  to  restore 
the  credit  of  the  early  Polish  legends ;  the  former  dwelling  on  their 
tyjHcal  value,  and  assuming  their  substantial  truth  from  the  thoroughly 
Polish  character  of  the  incidents,  in  many  of  which  he  sees  the  incidents 
of  Poland's  modern  history  prefigured ;  the  latter  reconstructing  them 
after  comparing  them  with  the  legends  of  other  countries,  and  criticising 


33-4 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


Sect.  III. 


them  by  the  light  of  aucient  Geiinan  and  Scandinavian  writers,  who,  in 
treating  the  history  of  tlieir  own  country,  have  touched  uj)on  that  of 
Poland. 

We  may  as  well  dismiss  the  Lekh  period  alto.2i;ether  ;  or  if  our  readers 
wish  to  know  something  of  the  legend  of  Lekh,  Tchekh,  and  Russ,  which 
lies  at  the  bottom  of  all  Slavonian  history,  we  may  briefly  mention  that 
these  three  brothers  started  from  somewhere  on  the  "Danube,  each  with  the 
object  of  fonning  an  independent  establishment,  if  not  of  founding  a 
.state  ;  that  three  eagles  a})ix'aring  and  flying  away  in  difi'erent  directions, 
the  omen  was  acce])tcd,  and  the  Slavonian  brothers,  like  the  eagles,  parted 
company,  each  to  follow  his  own  bird  wherever  its  flight  might  lead  him. 
Ituss,  of  course,  went  to  Ihissia ;  Tchekh  to  Bohemia,  the  country  of  the 
Bohemians,  or  Tchekhs ;  Lekh — led  by  a  white  eagle,  which  afterwards 
became  an  historical  symbol — to  Poland,  the  land  of  those  who  accompanied 
or  dwelt  with  Lekh.  From  po-lckh^  or  j'O-Iakh  (he  was  also  called  Lakh), 
the  word  "  polak  "  is  said  to  be  derived.  The  lUissians  call  the  Poles 
Folaki;  and  "Polack"was  the  English  name  for  a  Pole  in  the  time  of 
Shaksi)eare.  hi  the  provinces,  too,  of  ancient  Poland,  which  are  inhabited 
by  a  peasantry  of  Russian  or  Paithenian  race  (Volhynia,  Podolia,  &c.), 
*'  Lekh"  is  still  the  name  given  to  the  inhabitants  of  Poland  ]n-oper. 

Szainocha  makes  the  Lekhs,  or  Lakhs,  come  from  Scandinavia.  Accord- 
ing to  this  historian,  the  Nonnans  invaded  Poland  as  well  as  every  other 
northern  country  having  a  sea-coast ;  the  word  lakh  is  of  Gothic  origin,  and 
signifies  sociKs,  companion ;  and  the  Lakhs,  Lekhs,  or  Lechitcs,  were  a 
Norman  brotherhood,  who,  establishing  themselves  in  Poland,  as  the  Va- 
rangian Normans  established  themselves  in  Russia,  were  the  ancestors  of 
the  Polish  nobility. 

'i'he  theory  proj^ounded  by  the  learned  Szainocha  is  not  much  liked  by 
his  fellow-countrymen,  who  prefer  to  believe  that  the  Poles,  rich  and  iK)or, 
nobles  and  peasants,  are  all  of  the  same  stock,  and  that  the  noble  or  eques- 
trian order  was  originally  composed  of  all  Poles  who  were  able  to  serve 
their  country  on  horseback  ;  while  those  who  had  neither  horses  nor  arms, 
or  who  for  any  other  reason  were  unable  or  unwilling  to  go  to  war,  re- 
mained at  home  to  till  the  ground,  and  formed  a  class  of  peasantry. 

The  travellers  of  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries  tell  us 
that  the  Polish  nobility  proclaimed  themselves  of  eastern  descent ;  and  it  has 
been  surmised  by  Mickiewicz,  and  others,  that  the  Lekhi,  or  Leski,  came 
from  the  Caucasus,  and  were  of  the  same  family  as  the  Lesghi  or  Lesghians. 

Various  origins  are  assigned  to  the  nobility  of  Poland ;  but  whether  or 
not  the  country  was  invaded  or  colonised  by  a  foreign  race  at  some  pre- 
historic period,  the  foreign  appears  to  have  been  completely  absorbed  by  the 
indigenous  race  long  belore  the  date  of  the  earliest  Polish  records.  I>ut  the 
very  name  of  Poland  is  of  uncertain  derivation ;  for  though  by  most 
writers  it  is  traced  to  Lakh  and  jw-Iakh,  others  make  it  proceed  from  pola^  a 
field  or  i)lain.  The  Poles  call  the  country  Polska^  the  Russians  Polsha^  the 
Gei-mans  Polen,  the  French  Fdlorjne  (evidently  from  the  Latin  name  Fool- 
nia,  given  to  Poland  by  the  Poles  themselves)  ;  and  it  is  just  jxDSsible  that 
the  country  may  have  lx3en  called  "  the  country  of  fields  or  plains,"  while  the 
people  were  known  as  "  the  people  of  Lekh."     These  are  questions  which 


Poland. 


1, ^-Historical  Notice, 


335 


the  Poles  themselves  are  unable  to  settle,  and  about  which  we  need  not 
trouble  ourselves  further  than  to  note  that  in  England  we  first  became 
acquainted  with  them  under  the  name  of  "  Polacks"  long  before  we  knew 
them  as  Poles. 

The  Polish  nobles  have  always  been  politically  equal.  The  title  of 
"noble"  was  given  to  every  freeholder;  and  these  "noble"  proprietors 
were  the  only  inhabitants  who  were  called  ui)on  to  serve  in  defence  of  the 
country.  The  peasants,  without  being  slaves,  were  "assigned  to  the  soil," 
and  had  to  cultivate  the  nobleman's  fields  in  return  for  the  land  allotted  to 
them  for  their  own  use.  The  Crown,  as  in  other  European  states  during 
the  greater  part  of  the  middle  ages,  was  nominally  elective ;  but  in  practice 
the  Polish  sovereignty  may  be  said  to  have  been  hereditary  until  after  the 
extinction  of  the  jagellon  line.  The  cei'emony  of  election  took  place,  but 
until  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century  it  amounted  only  to  a  formal  recogni- 
tion of  the  next  heir. 

A  certain  attachment  to  the  hereditary  principle  was  shown  in  the  elec- 
tion of  the  first  of  the  Jagellons,  under  whom  in  the  latter  part  of  the 
fourteenth  century  Lithuania  and  Poland  became  united  under  the  same 
crown.  Casimir  the  Great,  who  restrained  the  power  of  the  nobility,  and, 
by  the  benefits  he  conferred  upon  the  peasantry,  gained  the  name  of  Fex 
liusticorum,  had  been  succeeded  by  his  nephew  Ladislas  King  of  Hungary, 
who,  being  a  foreigner,  could  only  ensure  the  possession  of  his  throne  by 
reinstating  the  nobles  in  all  their  privileges.  Ladislas  was  the  last  sove- 
reign of  tiie  Piast  period  ;  and  as  he  left  no  male  heir,  the  nobles  exercised 
the  ri<j;ht  accorded  to  them,  or  at  least  specifically  renewed,  by  Ladishis 
himseff,  of  choosing  his  successor.  Passing  over  the  eldest  daughter  INIarin, 
who  was  the  wife  of  the  too-powerful  Emperor  Sigismund,  they  ofiered 
the  crown  to  Hedvige,  Ladislas's  second  daughter,  requiring,  however,  as 
an  indispensable  condition,  that  she  should  marry  Ladislas  Jagellon,  Grand 
Duke  of  Lithuania.  With  this  personal  tie  the  influence  of  Poland  ui^on 
Lithuania  began.  The  political  fusion  Ixjtw^een  the  two  states  did  not  take 
place  until  nearly  two  centuries  later  (1569),  when  the  connexion  between 
Lithuania  and  Poland  Ix'came  as  intimate  as  that  between  Scotland  and 
England  after  the  Act  of  Union.  The  accession  ot  Ladislas  Jagellon  to  the 
throne  of  Poland  would  correspond  in  our  history  to  that  of  James  VL  of 
Scotland  to  the  En<^ish  throne. 

During  the  Jagellon  period  the  fonii  of  the  Polish  Government  became 
defined. ""  The  jjower  of  the  King  was  limited  by  that  of  two  Chambers,—- 
the  Senate,  com|X)sed  of  the  sui)erior  members  of  the  clergy  and  the  chief 
dignitaries  of  state,  and  a  Chamber  of  Delegates,  in  which  sat  the  repre- 
sentatives of  the  nobles  or  freeholders,  and  those  of  the  burgesses  of 
certain  privileged  towns. 

But  each  sovereign,  on  ascending  the  throne,  had  to  make  fresh  concessions, 
and  the  royal  power  gradually  diminished  until,  on  the  death  of  Sigismund 
Au!2;ustus,  the  last  of  the  Jagellons,  all  title  to  the  crown  from  hereditary 
ri^^ht  was  formally  abrogated  at  a  general  diet,  and  the  most  absolute  free- 
dom of  election  proclaimed.  At  the  same  time  a  charter  of  immunities 
was  drawn  up,  a  ratification  of  which  it  was  determined  to  exact  from  the 
next  sovereign  elected  to  the  throne.  By  this  charter  all  the  j^rivileges 
ever  conceded  by  previous  sovereigns  were  renewed  or  confirmed ;  and  it 


336 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


Sect.  III. 


was  clearly  established  that  the  king  mms  to  oe  chosen  by  the  whole  body 
of  the  nobility,  gentry,  or  freeholders ;  and  that,  in  case  of  his  infringing 
the  laws  and  privileges  of  the  nation,  his  subjects  should  be  absolved  from 
their  oaths  of  allegiance. 

While  Poland  thus  was  strengthened  territorially  by  its  union  with 
Lithuania — the  two  now  forming  but  one  state — it  was  at  the  same  time 
weakened  politically  by  the  limitations  im]>osed  on  the  central  power,  and 
by  the  extreme  precautions  taken  for  rendering  it  unstable.  Throughout 
the  Jagellon  period  tlie  kings,  in  spite  of  their  election,  always  styled  them- 
selves "heirs"  of  the  kingdom  of  Poland;  and  the  rule  observed,  though 
not  admitted  as  a  theory,  was  to  look  for  a  successor  to  the  next  heir. 
After  the  death  of  Sigismund  Augustus,  however,  the  Polish  nobility — 
prompted,  perhaps,  to  some  extent  by  jealousy  of  the  powerful  magnates 
of  Lithuania,  where  until  the  union  with  Poland  the  feudal  system  was 
maintained — insisted  on  all  nobles  or  freeholders  in  Lithuania,  as  in 
Poland,  being  declared  on  a  precise  equahty,  and  therefore  equally  com- 
petent to  2;ive  direct  votes  at  the  kingly  elections.  The  nobiUty  of  the 
Lithuano-Polisli  state,  voting  in  a  mass,  made  a  bad  beginning.  They 
went  to  France  for  their  sovereign,  and  Henry  of  Valois,  afterwards 
Henry  III.,  was  elected  to  the  throne,  on  engaging  to  pay  an  annual 
pension  to  the  state  from  the  revenues  of  France.  Now,  also,  the 
l)ractice  of  bribing  the  electors  individually — unheard  of  wh(jn  the  right 
of  choice  rested  with  the  diet — was  introduced,  and  helped  materially  to 
prepare  the  way  for  the  downfall  of  Poland.  It  was  not,  however,  until 
about  a  century  afterwards  that  signs  of  decay  became  generally  apparent. 
At  the  time  of  the  election  of  Henry  of  Valois  there  was  at  least  religious 
toleration  in  Poland — I'ar  more,  indeed,  than  in  any  other  country  ;  and 
the  necessity  of  recognising  the  principle  of  religious  liberty  was  specially 
impressed  upon  the  new  monarch,  wliose  brother,  it  was  not  forgotten,  had 
directed  the  massacre  of  St.  Bartholomew's  day. 

Put  with  the  entrance  of  the  Jesuits  into  Poland  came  intolerance ;  and 
one  of  the  reasons  which  led  the  Cossacks  of  the  Ukraine,  in  the  middle  of 
the  seventeenth  century,  to  solicit  Russian  ])rotection,  was  the  inferior  i)osi- 
tion  in  which  their  Greek  religion  was  ])laced  as  compared  with  that  of 
Koman  Catholic  subjects.  Poland  and  Muscovy  had  waged  war  for  two 
centuries  with  varied  success,  when  in  the  reign  of  Alexis  Mikhailovitch, 
Peter  the  Great's  father,  the  whole  of  the  Polish  territory  east  of  the 
Dnieper — now  known  as  Little  Ilussia — passed  under  the  protection  of 
the  Tsar,  and  after  the  insurrection  of  ;Mazei)pa,  in  the  reign  of  Peter,  was 
finally  iucorix)rated  with  the  Ixussian  empire.  With  Little  lUissia  the  city 
of  Kief,  on  the  Polish  side  of  the  Dnieper,  became  lost  to  Poland.  Sobicski, 
who  saved  Vienna  for  the  Austrians,  could  not  keep  Kief  for  the  Poles.  This 
sacred  city,  from  which  the  Russians  received  their  faith  before  either  Poland 
or  Russia  had  become  regularly  organised  states,  was  now  looked  upon  as 
the  religious  metropolis  of  the  numerous  Polish  subjects  belonging  to  the 
Eastern  Church ;  and  when  the  first  partition  of  Poland  took  place,  in 
1772,  the  portion  wliich  fell  to  Russia  contained  numbers  of  inhabitants 
who  were  already  connected  with  that  country  by  religious  ties. 

On  the  misfortunes  of  Poland  during  the  partitions  it  is  not  our  intention 
to  dwell.     As  to  the  distribution  of  territory,  it  was  observed  at  the  time 


Poland. 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


337 


that  the  most  extensive  portion  went  to  Pussia,  the  most  populous  to  Austria, 
and  the  most  commercial  to  Prussia. 

Prussian  Poland,  after  the  third  partition  (1795),  extended  beyond  the 
Vistula,  and  included  Warsaw.  The  ancient  Polish  capital  was  placed 
under  a  Prussian  administration,  and  vain  endeavours  were  made  to  Ger- 
manise it.  After  the  battles  of  Eylau  and  Friedland  (1806),  the  Poles 
having  risen  against  their  German  masters,  and  a  French  army  having 
entered  Warsaw,  Prussian  Poland  became  nominally  free ;  and  though  under 
French  influence,  and  required  to  furnish  troops  to  the  French  army,  it  was 
at  least  governed  constitutionally,  and  through  a  Polish  administration. 
This  new  Polish  state  (formed  entirely  out  of  the  provinces  seized  by 
Prussia  at  the  three  partitions)  was  called  the  Duchy  of  Warsaw\  The 
King  of  8axony  was  the  sovereign;  and  the  governing  power  was  vested 
in  the  Sovereign  and  two  Chambers, — a  Senate  and  a  House  of  Represen- 
tatives. 

At  the  great  settlement  of  1815  the  Emperor  Alexander  proposed  to  form 
the  whole  of  ancient  Poland  into  a  constitutional  monarchy  under  the 
Russian  crown  ;  but  it  was  ultimately  arranged  that  Galicia  (which  in 
1809  had  been  annexed  to  the  Duchy  of  Warsaw)  should  be  given  back 
to  Austria,  Posen  to  Prussia,  and  that  the  rest  of  the  Naiioleonic  duchy 
should  be  formed  into  a  constitutional  state  with  the  Russian  F.mperor  as 
King.  The  provinces  acquired  by  Catlierirte  II.  at  the  partition  of  the 
eighteenth  century  remained  incorporated  with  the  Russian  empire,  but 
were  not  subjected  to  a  Russian  administration  until  after  the  insurrection 
of  1830. 

The  little  kingdom  of  Poland  of  the  present  day,  with  its  five  million  of 
inhabitants,  was  governed  from  1815  to  1830  in  accordance  with  the  ar- 
rangements of  1815,  having  its  Diet,  its  national  administration,  and  its 
national  army  of  thirty  thousand  men.  After  the  insurrection  of  1830  the 
constitution  was  withdrawn,  the  national  army  abohshed,  the  national  lan- 
guage proscribed  in  the  public  offices,  and  the  administration,  as  far  as 
l)Ossil)le,  Russianised  ;  Poles,  however,  being  still  appointed  to  the  minor 
oflices.     The  Polish  universities  were  closed. 

After  the  accession  of  the  Emperor  Alexander  I.  several  reforms  were  in- 
troduced into  Poland,  and  Polish  was  re-established  as  the  language  of  the 
administration  and  of  public  instruction.  Demonstrations,  however,  in 
favour  of  national  independence  were  commenced  ;  and  for  two  j^ars  before 
the  last  insurrection  broke  out  Warsaw  was  the  scene  of  constant  agitation. 
In  the  mean  while  several  concessions  were  made  by  the  government.  The 
administration  was  comi)letely  separated  from  that  of  Russia ;  elective  dis- 
trict and  municipal  councils  and  a  council  of  state  were  formed.  The 
re-opening  of  the  universities  and  of  additional  gymnasiums,  and  the  esta- 
blishment of  schools  for  the  peasantry,  preceded  the  arrival  of  the  Grand 
Duke  Constantino  in  Warsaw,  accompanied  by  the  Marquis  Wielopolski, 
as  chief  of  the  civil  administration.  From  the  Marquis  Wieloix)lski  down- 
wards every  official  in  Poland  was  now  a  Pole ;  but  the  administrative  and 
other  reforms  had  little  effect  in  quelling  the  excitement ;  and  in  January, 
1863,  another  insurrection  broke  out  in  Warsaw,  the  lamentable  efl'ects  of 
which  will  long  be  felt. 

The  Polish  language  has  now  been  entirely  superseded  by  Russian  in  all 


838 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


Sect.  III. 


educational  establishments,  as  well  as  in  all  public  offices ;  and  all  official 
corresix)ndence  even  with  the  Voits,  must  be  in  Russian. 

The  Code  Napoleon  is  to  be  sui^rseded  by  the  Russian  Code  with  some 
modifications. 

The  insurrection  which  broke  out  in  1803  had  Iouli;  been  meditated  by 
the  "red,"  or  extreme  jmrty,  while  the  "  white,"  or  moderate  parly,  were 
opix)sed  to  it  as  inexpedient  and  iin])rudent.  The  rising  was  precipitated 
by  an  arbitrary  conscription,  or  proscrij)tion,  by  means  of  which  it  was  pro- 
jx)sed  to  carry  oh'  some  thousands  of  the  more  violently  disail'ectetl,  for  the 
pur|K)se  of  enrolling  them  in  the  Russian  army. 

For  a  time  the  landed  proprietors,  and  the  modemtc  party  generally,  held 
aloof  from  the  movement.  Gradually,  however,  it  extended;  and  when  it 
was  known  that  the  Western  Powers  were  about  to  address  representations 
to  Russia  on  behalf  of  the  Poles,  all  classes  in  Poland,  with  the  exception 
of  the  uneducated,  indiflerent  peasantry,  uniteil  for  the  imrjxise  of  main- 
taining the  insurrection.  On  the  10th  of  March,  at  the  solicitation  of  the 
"  white  "  party  and  "  red  "  party  combined,  Gen.  Langiewicz,  formerly  an 
officer  in  the  Prussian  army,  proclaimed  himself  dictator;  but  his  dictator- 
ship lasted  scarcely  a  fortnight.  Having  crossed  the  frontier  of  Poland  to 
enter  Galicia(with  the  view,  it  is  believed,  of  re-entering  Poland  at  another 
])oint),  he  was  arrested  by  the  Austrians,  and  thrown  into  a  fortress,  where 
he  was  detained  until  long  after  the  termination  of  the  insurrection.  After 
the  fall  of  Langiewicz  the  insurn.'ction  assumed  a  guerilla  character,  and  no 
more  large  detachments  were  formed.  A  number  of  bands,  of  from  100 
to  1000  men,  appeared  in  Poland  and  Lithuania.  'J'here  was  also  a  partial 
rising  (soon  put  down)  in  Volhynia.  The  struggle,  hopeless  from  the 
moment  it  was  seen  that  no  foreign  power  had  any  intention  of  assisting 
the  Poles,  lasted,  nevertheless,  imtil  the  spring  of  18G4,  when  the  Austrians 
placed  Galicia  in  a  state  of  siege,  and  proceeded  to  deliver  U])  to  the 
Russians  all  insurgents  who  sought  refuge  on  their  territory.  The  last 
im}X)rtant  body  of  insurgents  was  under  the  orders  of  General  PxDssak  (the 
pseudonym  adopted  by  Count  Ilauke,  formerly  a  colonel  in  the  Russian 
army),  who,  from  his  head-quarters  in  the  mountains  near  Cracow,  com- 
manded three  detachments,  numbering  altogether  some  2000  men.  After 
having  maintained  his  position  for  six  months,  "liossak"  broke  np  his 
force,  and  retired  to  Galicia,  whence  he  afterwards  made  his  way  to  Switzer- 
land. 

After  Langiewicz  and  *'13ossak"  the  principal  leaders  in  this  insurrec- 
tion were  Frankowski,  a  student  (wounded,  taken  prisoner,  and  executed); 
Padlewski,  formerly  an  officer  in  the  Russian  army  (wounded,  taken 
prisoner,  and  executed);  Jezioranski,  formerly  an  oflieer  in  the  Prussian 
army  (still  living);  Lelewel,  a  mechanical  engineer  from  Warsaw  (killed 
in  action);  Narbutt,  a  Litliuanian  proprietor,  Ibrmerly  in  the  Russian 
army  (killed  in  action);  Sierakowski,  formerly  an  offiicer  in  the  Russian 
army  (mortally  wounded  in  action,  and  hanged  by  Mouravieff  when 
on  the  point  of  death);  Cieszkowski,  chief  of  a  band  near  Malogoszcza, 
wounded  in  action,  but  killed  in  bed  next  day ;  "  Kruk,"  formerly  an 
officer  in  the  liussian  army  (still  living);  Taczanowski,  tbrmerly  an  officer 
in  the  Prussian  army  (still  living);  and  the  Abbe  Mackiewicz  (taken 
prisoner  and  hanged). 


Poland. 


2. — Statistics.     3. — Social  Condition. 


339 


2.— Statistics. 

Tlie  Kingdom  of  Poland,  as  constituted  by  the  Congress  of  Vienna,  com- 
prises an  extent  of  2320  geographical  square  miles.  In  1861  the  population 
amounted  to  4,910,fi08  souls,  consisting  of  2,375,312  men  and  2,535,290 
women,  which  in  1863  had  increased  to  4,986,230  souls. 

Classified  according  to  religion  the  population  in  1856  was  composed  of— 

Roman  Catholics 3,767,977 

Uniat^s         219,655 

Protestants 289,583 

Moravian  Brethren       2,000 

Menonites l,o99 

Russo-G  reek  Church 5,100 

Odinovertsi,  a  sect  of  the  Russian  Church ..  551 

Staroveri,   Russian   Sectaries,  who  emigrated  into  Poland  in  the 
loth  century,  at  the  time  of  the  religious  persecutions  in  Russia, 

and  foniied  separate  colonies 3,937 

Jews     ..      ..      617,891 

]MahomeUms ^^ ' 

Gipsies ^°" 

The  nationalities  of  which  the  po]mlation  of  the  kingdom  of  Poland  is 
composed  arc  officially  grouped  as  follows  : — 

Poles 3,420,000 

Ruthenians  (in    the    province  of  Lublin).     This  race  also  pre- 
dominates in  all  the  southern  provinces  of  Russia  as  well  as  in 

the  eastern  part  of  Galicia  in  Austria       215,000 

Russians        ..      ^'^OO 

Lithuanians  (in  the  province  of  Augustovo).      They  also   pre- 
dominate in  the  provinces  of  Kowno,  Wilna,  and  Courland      . .       220,000 
Germans,  partly  established  in  towns,  and  partly  in  agricultural 

colonies  scattered  over  the  whole  country        300,000 

Jews,  exclusively  inhabiting  towns      600,000 

The  inhabitants  of  the  22,613  villages  of  the  kingdom  (grouped 

in  3083  rural  communes)  amount  to       3,690,967 

The  inhabitants  of  the  453  towns  number 1,219,641 


3. — Social  Condition. 

'  When  Poland  was  independent  the  law  divided  the  population  of  the  country 
into  three  classes— the  nobles,  the  citizens,  and  the  rustics.  The  clergy, 
althou<^li  enjoying  all  the  immunities  secured  to  them  by  tlie  canon  law,  did 
not  constitute  a  separate  class.  The  Jews  did  not  belong  to  any  of  the  classes 
reco-mized  by  the  law,  but  had  special  rights  and  obligations.  They  were 
only°assimilatcd  to  the  other  classes,  with  some  restrictions,  in  1861,  when 
the  country  enjoyed  a  certain  amount  of  political  freedom.  Under  the  old 
Republic,  the  nobility  exclusively  possessed  political  rights;   they, alone 

Russia. — 1868.  * 


3i0 


3. — Social  Condition. 


Sect.  III. 


l)articipated  in  the  elections  to  the  Diets ;  and  they  alone  could  hold  landed 
property  or  public  offices.  The  citizens  could  only  hold  real  property  in 
towns.  They  enjoyed  the  municipal  franchises  ,i^ranted  to  each  town  by  its 
Charter  of  Election.  The  rustics  were  adscripti  f/lehce  to  the  extent  that 
the  mral  communes  were  obliged  to  occupy  all  the  peasant  farms,  and  that  the 
peasant  could  not  leave  his  lord  until  all  such  farms  were  occupied.  But  tliey 
also  possessed  the  ric^ht  of  occupyin^:^  any  farms  that  were  vacant.  Strictly 
speaking,  serfdom  did  not  exist ;  but  there  was  a  kind  of  personal  derK'nd- 
ence,  aggravated  by  the  extensive  privileges  of  the  nobles,  and  by  tlic 
imix)tence  of  the  government.  In  lieu  of  rent  the  peasant  holders  of  forms 
worked  for  their  landlords  a  certain  number  of  days  in  the  week,  deteiTnined 
by  law.  A  tendency  to  exchange  that  labour  for  a  money  pajanent  which 
had  begun  to  manifest  itself  was  interrupted  by  the  partition  of  Poland. 
After  that  event  the  social  condition  of  the  country  was  modified  according 
to  the  institutions  that  existed  in  the  countries  which  shared  Poland.  The 
condition  of  the  peasants  became  more  oppressive  ;  the  nobility  lost  almost 
all  their  i)olitical  rights,  and  the  towns  their  municipal  autonomy.  All 
serfage  was  however  abolished  in  1807,  when  the  Duchy  of  Warsaw  was 
constituted.  The  right  of  holding  landed  projx^rty  and  government  offices 
Avas  bestowed  on  all  classes  of  society  alike,  with  the  exception  of  the  Jews ; 
the  nobles  only  retaining  the  right  of  appointing  a  certain  number  of  the 
members  of  the  Chamber  of  Deputies.  But  as  a  necessary  consequence  of 
the  liberation  of  the  peasant  from  all  attachment  to  the  glebe,  the  landed 
proprietors  claimed,  without  any  sanction  of  the  law,  the  entire  possession 
of  all  the  lands  formerly  held  by  the  adsnipti  gleboe.  The  relations 
between  the  peasants  and  the  proprietors  became  free ;  that  is  to  say, 
that  the  holding  of  farms,  and  the  amount  and  the  mode  of  the  rent, 
were  left  to  amicable  adjustment.  With  a  few  exceptions  old  relations  were 
continued  voluntarily  and  by  mutual  agreement.  The  peasants  retained 
possession  of  their  farms,  which  then  numlxjred  240,000 ;  and  continued 
to  work  in  the  fields  of  their  landlords  the  number  of  days  previously 
agreed  upon.  These  liabilities  in  labour  were  gradually  converted  into 
money  payments.  It  was  only  in  1846  that  the  law  interposed  to  prevent 
any  change  in  existing  relations.  The  proprietors  could  no  longer  either 
take  back  the  farms  from  the  ]ieasants  or  raise  their  rents;  while  the 
ix?asants  retained  the  right  of  leaving  their  holdings.  Since,  by  that 
measure,  the  land  question  could  no  longer  Ixj  settled  gradually  at  the 
convenience  of  the  parties  interested,  and  with  their  free  coriaent,  the 
necessity  of  regulating  it  in  a  definitive  manner  by  law  became  evident,  and 
gave  rise  in  1859  and  1861  to  a  series  of  ukazes,  of  which  the  provisions 
could  only  have  been  applied  slowly.  An  insurrection  broke  out  in 
1863.  In  order  to  interest  the  ]K'asants  in  the  movement,  its  chiefs 
promised  them  the  gratuitous  freehold  of  the  lands  they  occupied,  and 
proposed  to  indemnify  the  proprietors  at  the  expnse  of  the  govern- 
ment which  they  desired  to  restore.  In  1864  the  Pvussian  Government 
seized  the  same  weapon  in  order  to  suppress  the  insurrection.  All  the 
property  held  by  the  peasants  was  gratuitously  bestowed  upon  them,  and 
even  servants  became  proprietors  of  the  dwellings  which  they  occupied. 
According  to  this  new  settlement,  the  intersection  of  fields  by  the  property 
of  others  was  peri^etuated,  as  well  as  the  labour  in  the  fields  and  forests  of 


Poland. 


4. — Political  Administration, 


341 


the  landlord  owed  by  the  rural  communes.  The  Government  promised  to 
indemnify,  to  a  certain  extent,  the  landed  proprietors  who  had  been  deprived 
of  a  considerable  part  of  their  fortunes.  The  last  settlement  reintroduced 
a  class  of  i)easants  distinct  from  that  of  the  citizens  and  nobles— a  dis- 
tinction that  has  not  existed  since  1807.  The  citizens  have  long  since 
lost  their  most  precious  franchise,  that  of  municipal  self-government.  The 
mayors  are  apix)inted  by  the  Crown,  and  it  is  only  a  few  towns  that 
have  elective  municipal  councils  since  1861.  The  nobles  have  only  retained 
certain  ])rivileges  with  regard  to  military  service,  and  the  substitution,  in 
criminal  matters,  of  exile  to  Siberia,  where  corporal  punishment  would  bo 
otherwise  inflicted. 


4. — Political  Administration. 

The  kingdom  of  Poland  is  governed  by  a  Namiestnik,  or  Lieutenant  of 
the  Emperor,  wlio  is  at  the  same  time  ex-officio  Commander  of  the  Forces 
in  Poland ;  the  attributes  and  powers  of  the  '*  Namiestnikate  "  are,  however, 
very  different  from  those  possessed  by  Prince  Paskiewitch,  and  it  is  highly 
probable  that  in  the  course  of  time  the  post  itself  will  be  abolished. 

The  Government  of  Poland  may  be  said  to  be  in  a  transition  state :  all  the 
so-called  autonomic  institutions  of  the  country  have  been  swept  away,  and 
every  department  has  been  placed  during  the  last  two  years  under  the 
corresix)nding  offices,  or  bodily  merged  in  the  Departments  at  St.  Petersburg, 
while  every  Pole  either  has  been,  or  will  be,  dismissed  from  Government 
employment,  unless  prepared  to  embrace  the  Greek  faith. 

Since  the  lat«  insurrection  a  "Committee  of  Beoi-ganization"  has  been 
in  existence  at  Warsaw,  which  began  witli  the  questions  involved  by  the 
changes  in  the  condition  of  the  i)easants,  and  has  gradually  usurixjd  a 
considerable  part  in  the  direction  of  the  government  of  the  country.  The 
Namiestnik  is  President  of  this  committee,  but  his  ix)sition  when  in  the 
committee  is  scarcely  more  than  **  primus  inter  i)ares,"  and  all  questions 
and  measures  are  subsequently  submitted  to  the  Section  or  Committee  for 
Polish  Afl'airs  at  St.  Petersburg. 

The  whole  policy  of  the  Government  is  bent  on  extinguishing  all 
remembrance  of  a  separate  nationality  in  Poland,  and  it  will  sj^eedily  be 
reduced  to  precisely  the  same  state,  as  regards  laws,  government,  and  in- 
stitutions, as  any  other  Russian  province. 

Poland  is  divided  into  ten  Governments,  each  provided  in  miniature 
with  the  complete  machinery  of  Government :  the  Governors  report  direct 
to  St.  Petersburg,  and  select  their  own  officials,  but  they  owe  a  distinct 
allegiance  to  the  Namiestnik,  who  exercises  a  supervision  over  the  wliole 
kingdom,  and  is  responsible  for  everything  which  takes  place. 

The  seats  of  the  ten  Governments  are  Warsaw,  Kalisch,  Pietrokow, 
lladom,  Kielce,  Lublin,  Siedlce,  Plozk,  Lomza,  and  Suwalki. 

The  rural  communes  are  administrated  by  Mayors,  ctilled  Voit.  Until 
the  year  1864  the  Government  was  bound  to  api)oint  these  functionaries 
from  amongst  the  landal  proprietors  of  the  commune.  Since  then, 
however,  they  have  been  elected  by  the  peasants  by  universal   suffrage. 

R  2 


342  5. — Agriculture,  Industry,  and  Commerce.        Sect.  III. 

The  landed  proj^rictors  and  tlie  priests  have  not  the  right  of  votinp;  at 
such  elections.  All  the  towns  are  governed  by  Burgomasters  appointed  by 
the  Government.  The  most  imiwtant  towns  enjoy  the  privilege  of  having 
elective  municipal  councils,  which  assist  the  Burgomasters  in  the  discharge 
of  their  duties.  This  system  has  been  applied  up  to  the  present  time  to  16 
towns  out  of  453.  Justice  is  administered  in  the  towns  by  the  Burgo- 
masters, and  in  the  villages  by  the  Magistrates  {Voit  (jmini),  assisted  by 
rural  tribunals  composed  of  peasants.  The  inferior  courts  thus  constituted 
can  sentence  to  eight  days'  imprisonment,  and  deliver  final  verdicts  in  civil 
suits  to  the  extent  of  50  rubles.  The  higher  Judicial  Instances  are  80 
Judges  of  the  Peace,  and  as  many  Tribunals  of  Correctional  Police,  9  Civil 
Tribunals,  1  Commercial  Tribunal,  17  Criminal  Courts,  and  a  Court  of 
Appeal,  which  takes  cognizance  of  civil,  commercial,  and  criminal  matters. 
There  are  moreover  li  departments  of  the  Senate,  forming  part  of  the  Senate 
of  the  Empire  ;  of  which  one  acts  as  a  final  Court  of  Appeal  in  civil  suits, 
the  other  in  criminal  cases.  The  i>roceedings  in  all  these  courts  are  public 
and  oral.  A  commission  has  been  appointed  with  the  object  of  reforming 
the  organisation  and  mode  of  procedure  of  these  courts. 

There  are  in  addition  various  commissions  sitting  for  the  investigation  of 
political  offences,  whose  sittings,  acts,  and  even  existence,  may  be  said  to  be 
almost  secret. 


.  5. — Agriculture,  Industry,  and  Commerce. 

Agriculture  is  pursued  in  the  kingdom  of  Poland  on  more  than  25,000 
large  farms,  of  the  extent  of  200  to  1500  acres,  belonging  to  nearly  8000  landed 
])roprietors,  and  on  more  than  240,000  jMjasant  larms,  seldom  exceeding  40 
acres  of  land.  'I'he  ])easants  ])roduce  almost  nothing  for  exportation. 
J.arge  proprietors  generally  work  their  own  farms,  and  very  rarely  let  them. 
The  rent  of  a  farm  seldom  exceeds  10  shillings  per  acre.  Many  Englishmen 
have  realized  considerable  suras  of  money  by  farming,  although  they  all 
commenced  with  very  small  capitals.  AVheat  and  wool  are  principally 
l)roduced  for  exportation.  Large  crops  of  potatoes  are  raised  for  the  dis- 
tillation of  spirits,  as  well  as  beet-root  lor  the  manufacture  of  sugar.  Clover 
grows  in  perfection.  Wood  for  building  purposes  is  also  a  great  item  of 
exportation.  The  fir-tree  (pin as  silvestris)  and  the  oak  ((juercus  rohur)  are 
of  very  superior  quality. 

The  nianufacture  of  spirits  from  i)otatoes  and  grain  is  most  widely 
pursued.  There  are  more  than  2000  distilleries  of  brandy.  The  excise 
duties  which  they  pay  amount  to  more  than  100  per  cent,  of  the  value 
of  the  produce.  The  branches  of  industry  next  in  importance  are 
brewing,  the  manufacture  of  sugar  from  beet-root,  cotton-spinning,  calico- 
printing,  cloth-weaving,  and  the  manufacture  of  iron  and  zinc.  Most  of  the 
iron  and  zinc  mines  and  works  belong  to  the  Government.  They  are 
chiefly  situated  in  the  province  of  Radom,  and  some  on  the  frontier  of 
Silesia.  Others  again,  between  Padom  and  Kieltse,  produce  iron,  which 
is  smelted  with  charcoal,  and  which  is  not  inferior  to  the  best  iron  from 
•Siberia. 


Poland. 


6. — Posting.     7. — Language. 


343 


The  state  of  agriculture  nnd  of  industry  indicates  the  principal  articles  of 
trade.  The  custom-houses  of  the  kingdom  of  Poland  are  united  with 
those  of  the  empire  of  Russia.  The  trade  between  the  two  countries  is  free, 
excepting  in  the  items  of  spirits,  salt,  and  tobacco,  which  are  mono]X)lized, 
and  burdened  with  heavy  excise  duties.  Trade  is  promoted  by  the  State  Pan  k 
of  Poland,  a  deposit,  loan,  discount,  and  emission  Bank.  A  Land  Securities 
Company  (Credit  Fancier),  based  on  the  mutual  guarantee  of  the  landed 
proprietors,  emitting  bonds  bearing  4  per  cent,  interest  in  specie,  guaranteed 
by  the  Government,  facilitates  the  transfer  of  property  by  the  liquidation 
of  mortgages.  The  law  of  mortgage  is  extremely  well  regulated  in  Poland. 
A  State  Lisurance  Office  against  fire  and  against  epidemics  among  cattle, 
as  well  as  for  the  insurance  of  life,  renders  very  im]X)rtant  services  to 
the  country.  There  is  an  Exchange  at  Warsaw  with  sworn  brokers, 
where  a  considerable  business  is  done  in  drafts  on  Odessa.  There  is 
also  a  Tribunal  of  Commeice.  The  commercial  law  of  the  kingdom,  and 
the  judicial  procedure  in  matters  of  commerce,  are  exactly  the  same  as  in 
France.  The  commercial  interests  of  foreign  States  are  protected  by  Con- 
suls General  and  Consuls  resident  at  Warsaw. 


6. — Posting. 

The  high  roads  are  not  numerous.  Their  entire  length  in  18G0  amounted 
to  4000  versts.  They  are  becoming  more  numerous  since  their  construction 
has  lx»en  confided  to  committees  chosen  from  among  the  inhabitants  of 
the  districts  interested  in  them.  The  most  imix)rtant  highways  are  losing 
their  importance,  being  supplanted  by  railways.  Uncomfortable  coaches 
run  from  Warsaw  by  Way  of  Padom  to  Kieltse  ;  from  Warsaw  by  way 
of  Lublin  to  Zamoscz  ;  from  Warsaw  by  Brest-Litevski  to  Moscow  ;  from 
Warsaw  by  Pultusk  to  Suvalki  ;  from  Warsaw  to  the  fortress  of  Novogeor- 
gievsk  or  Modlin ;  and  from  Brest-Lite fski  to  Kief.  On  the  post-roads 
where  coaches  do  not  yet  run,  a  britshka  or  open  cart  without  springs  is  used 
by  travellers.  Post-horses  are  to  be  obtained  for  private  carriages  or  for  post- 
carriages.  No  Padorojna  is  required  as  in  Russia,  but  it  is  necessary  to  pro- 
duce a  passi)ort.  Post-horses  cost  five  copecks  per  horse  per  verst.  The  charge 
for  an  ojx^n  ])ost-carriage  without  springs  is  one  copeck  per  verst.  The  coach- 
man receives  drink-money  at  the  rate  of  one  copeck  per  verst  for  each  horse. 
In  short,  travellers  who  leave  the  lines  of  railway,  and  are  unprovided  with  a 
good  carriage,  will  meet  with  very  little  comfort ;  nor  will  any  good  inns 
or  places  of  refreshment  be  found,  even  in  the  small  country  towns.    , 


7. — Language. 

The  Polish  language  belongs  to  the  north-west  gi*oup  of  the  Slavic 
division  of  Indo-European  tongues.  Its  principal  dialects,  though  not 
materially  differing  from  each  other,  are  those  of  Llasovia,  Little  Poland 
and  Galicia,  Lithuania,  and  Great  Poland,  besides  the  more  degenerate 
Silesian,     The  alphabet  consists  of  the  following  letters  : — 


344 


7. — Language. 


Sect.  III. 


a  (short  Italian  a). 

a  (French  on), 

i),  b'(soft  like  English  hy,  both  consonant). 

c  (tz)   L   {tch^  very   soft,    cz  (tcA),  ch 

[kh.  Ger.  ch), 
d  (short  Italian). 
e  (short  Italian,  d  (compressed  as  in  yes) 

§  (Fr.  in). 

}  hard. 


short  Italian, 


^  I  hard. 

n  iyr.gn), 

0  (short  It,),  d  (compressed,  approaching 

p,  p  (soft  like  py^  both  consonant), 

r,  rz  (Fr.  rj  in  one). 

s,  s'  (s/t  very  soft),  sz  (s^). 

*  I  (short  Ital.). 

w  (r). 

X 

y  (resembling  the  Ger.  li). 

z,  z  (Fr  ji),  z  (Fr.;',  very  soft). 


j  (V  consonant), 

k  (hard). 

+  (very  hard),  1  (It.  gli), 

I  serves  to  soften  various  consonants,  replacing  the ' :  drob\  little  j-ionltry, 
gen.  drohlio;  iyc,  to  live,  zycie^  life;  ko/i,  horse,  gen.  konia ;  wies\  village, 
gen.  wsi.  The  accent,  except  in  foreign  words  and  in  compounds,  is 
constantly  on  the  penultimate :  rudak^  countryman,  gen.  rodCika^  dat. 
rodukmvL  As  in  Latin,  there  is  no  article :  cnotdj  virtue,  a  virtue,  the 
virtue.  There  are  seven  cases  of  declension,  nominative,  genitive,  dative, 
accusative,  vocative,  instrumental  (mieczcm^  by  or  with  the  sword),  and 
locative  (after  certain  prepositions,  as  lo  Bogu,  in  God).  The  forms  of 
declension  depend  upon  the  termination,  the  gender,  and  the  kind,  words 
of  the  same  termination  denoting  persons,  animals,  and  lifeless  objects 
having  in  the  masculine  several  different  forms.  The  gender  of  nouns  is 
mostly  determined  by  the  termination.  There  are  three  genders  for  nouns, 
adjectives,  pronouns,  verbs,  and  participles.  The  comj^arative  degree  is 
formed  by  the  syllable  szy  (nom.  mas.  sing.),  the  superlative  by  7i(ij  and 
szy.  The  verb  is  exceedingly  rich  in  forms,  serving  to  express  frequency, 
intensity,  inception,  duration,  and  other  modes  of  action  or  being.  The 
formatives  consist  chiefly  of  prepositions  and  other  particles,  as  in  German. 
Diminutives,  denominatives,  and  other  derivatives  are  abundant.  Com- 
ix)unds  are  rare.  The  words  of  a  sentence  can  Ix^  arranged  almost  as  freely 
as  in  Latin,  misunderstanding  being  precluded  by  the  distinctness  of  the 
formative  terminations.  In  flexibility,  richness,  power,  and  harmony,  the 
Polish  is  hardly  excelled  by  any  other  language  of  P^urope  ;  its  grammatical 
structure  is  fully  developed  and  firmly  established  ;  its  orthogra])hy  precise 
and  perfect.  The  principal  grammars  are  by  Kopczynski,  Mrongovius, 
Bandtke,  and  Muczkowski  (Cracow,  1845) ;  the  principal  dictionaries  by 
Linde  and  Trojanski  (Posen,  1835-46). 


Poland. 


8. — Words  and  Phrases. 


345 


8. — Words  and  Phrases, 


The  emperor 

The  empress 

The  crown  prince 

A  grand  duke 

A  prince 

A  count 

A  noble 

The  lord 

Sir  or  Mr. 

The  head  of  a  village 

An  employ^ 

A  peasant  < 

A  policeman 

A  blacksmith 

A  drojky 

A  coachman 

A  postilion 

A  waiter 

A  porter  (swiss) 
„      (carrier) 
„      (house) 

A  water-can*ier 

A  foreigner 

Chiof  city 

A  town 

A  street 

A  cross-street 

A  square 

A  market 

A  row  of  shops 

A  shop 

A  quay 

A  gateway 

Outer  door 

An  island 

A  garden 

A  field 

A  cathedral 

A  church 

A  belfry 

A  cemetery 

A  monastery 

A  palace 

An  hotel 


A  restaurant 
A  house 


{ 


Ts^sazh* 

Ts^sazhova. 

Tsesazhecitch. 

Vielki  Ksionzhd. 

Ksionzhe. 

Hrahia. 

Shlakhtsits. 

Pan, 

Pan. 

Sultis. 

Uzhendnik, 

Vlostsianin. 

Khllop. 

Politsiant, 

Koval. 

Dorozhka. 

Stangret. 

Potchtilion. 

Pzhcvodnik. 

Shva'itsar, 

Tragazh. 

Stmzh. 

Vodocoz. 

Tsiidzoziemiets. 

Stolitsa. 

Miasio. 

Ulitsa, 

Ulitchl:a. 

Plats. 

Rinek. 

Zhond  shlcpikuf. 

Sklepik. 

Nadbzhezhe, 

Brama, 

Vkhud. 

Vispa. 

Ogriid. 

Pole. 

Katedra. 

Kostsiiill. 

Dzvonnitsa. 

Tsmcntazh. 

Klashtor, 

Palais. 

Hotels  zaiazd, 

Pestauratsia. 

Traktyernya, 

Dom. 


A  courtyard 

A  villa 

A  room 

A  chemist's 

A  parade-ground 

A  barrack 

A  fort 

A  bridge 

A  river 

A  village 

A  road 

A  hill 

The  bath-house 

A  post  station 

The  great  bazaar 

The  Exchange 

Endish  Ambassador 

Endish  Consul 

o 

To  write 

Paper 

Ink 

Pen 

Pencil 

To  eat 

To  drink 

To  breakfast 

Breakfast 

To  (line 

Dinner 

To  sup 

Supper 

A  portion 

Soup 

An  ice 

A  roast 

Beef 

Veal 

Mutton 

Cutlets 

Beefsteak 

Fish 

Ham 

A  fowl 

A  chicken 

A  hare 

A  partridge 

Hazel  grouse 


{ 


Dzyedzinyiets, 
Podviizhe, 
Villa. 
Pokiii. 
Apteka. 
Plats-paradni. 
Shalass. 
Fortetsa, 
Most. 
Zheka, 
Vyesi. 
Droga. 
Giira. 
Laznia. 

Statsya  potchtowa, 
Gluvni  rinek. 
Guielda. 

Possel  Angyelski. 
Konsul  Angyelski. 
Pissatsi. 
Papy^r. 
Atrament, 
Piuro. 
Oluvek. 
Yestsi. 
Pitsi. 

Yestsi  snyadanii. 
Snyadanie. 
Yeslsi  obyad, 
Obyad. 

Yestsi  kolatsyon, 
Kolatsya. 
PoHsia. 
Zupa. 
Lodi. 

Pyetchenia. 
Volovina. 
Tsyelentsina. 
Baranina, 
Kotleti. 
Bifshtik. 
Piba. 
Shinka, 
Kura. 
Kurtche. 
Zayonts. 
Kuropatva, 
Yazhonbek, 


*  The  words  are  written  here  as  they  should  be  pronounced,  not  as  they  are  spelt, 
sounds  have  been  given  to  the  letters  as  in  the  Russian  vocabulary. 


The  same 


346 

8. —  Words  and  Phrases, 

Sect.  Ill 

Blackcock 

Tsyetzhev. 

A  hat 

KapeUish. 

Capercailzie 

Glushets. 

A  fur  cloak 

Skuba. 

Potatoes 

Kartofel. 

A  pair  of  boots 

JJuti. 

Peas 

Grokh. 

A  bath 

Kompyel. 

Cucumbers 

Ogurki. 

A  washhand-basiu 

Mycdnitaa. 

Pears 

Grushki. 

A  towel 

Pentshiu'k. 

Apples 

Yablha. 

Soap 

Mydlo. 

Nuts 

Orzhekhi. 

A  dressing-gown 

Schhifrock. 

White  bread 

Bulka. 

A  boat 

Lndka, 

Black  bread 

KUeb. 

A  carriage 

Knreta. 

Pancakes 

Bliny. 

A  cart 

Pritchka. 

Cheese 

Syr. 

A  wheel 

Kolo. 

Butter 

Mash, 

The  pole 

Dyshel. 

Eggs 

Yaya. 

The  wooden  arch 

Pug  a. 

Cream 

Smyetanka. 

A  cord 

Porniz. 

Milk 

Mleho. 

A  hoi-se 

Koni. 

Wine 

Vino. 

Horses 

Konye. 

Corn  brandy 

Vudka. 

Hay 

Syano. 

Beer 

Pivo. 

Straw 

Sloina. 

Coffee 

Kara. 

A  book 

Ksyonzhka. 

Tea 

Herhata. 

A  snow-storm 

Ziivfjcruklia. 

Sugar 

Tsukycr. 

Ice 

Livd. 

Water 

Vodii. 

Half 

Pal,  polova. 

A  glass  of  water 

Shklanka  vody. 

A  quarter 

Chctcierti. 

Hot  water 

Gorontsa  I'odu. 

dj-eat 

Pnzld. 

Cold  water 

Zinina  voda. 

Little 

Mali. 

Salt 
Pepper 

Sul. 
Piepzh. 

Beautiful 

(  Pyenkni          (fern. 
\       Pyenkna. 

Vinegar 

Otset. 

Old 

Stari  (fern.  ra). 

Mustard 

Mushtarda. 

Mew 

Kovi  (fem.  ra). 

A  trunk 

Kuffer. 

Yes 

Tak,  tak  yest. 

Portmanteau 

Thmok. 

No 

Nye. 

Travelling-bag 

Vorek  podruzhni. 

Good,  very  well 

Dohzh^. 

Box  or  case 

Paka. 

Not  good,  not  well 

Zly€. 

A  tea-urn 

Samovar. 

Bring 

Pzhenyes. 

A  tea-pot 

Herhatnitchka. 

For 

Dla. 

A  pail 

Vyadro. 

More 

Vycntsei. 

A  bottle 

Butelka. 

Less 

Mniyei. 

A  glass 

Shklanka. 

That 

To. 

A  cup 

Filizhanka. 

Enough 

Posits. 

A  wine-glass 

Ky€lishek.    ■ 

Not  enough 

Nye  dosits. 

A  plate 

Talezh. 

Too  long 

Za  dlugo. 

A  knife 

Nuzh. 

Give 

Pai. 

A  fork 

Videlets, 

Give  me 

Dai  mi. 

A  spoon 

Lizhka. 

Give  us 

Dai  nam. 

A  table 

Stul. 

Now 

Teraz. 

Abed 

Postsyel. 

It  cannot  be  done 

Nye  mozhna. 

A  stove 

Pycts. 

Do  better 

Zrvb  lepye'i. 

Fire 

Oijien. 

Father 

Oitsyets. 

A  light  (candle) 

Sviyetsa. 

Mother 

Matka. 

A  napkin 

Serveta. 

Biother 

Brat. 

A  duster 

Stsyerka. 

Sister 

Syostra. 

Poland. 


8. — Words  and  Phrases. 


347 


Dialogues. 


Good  day. 

Good  night. 

Good  bye. 

If  you  please. 

Thank  you. 

Here. 

Who  is  there? 

Come  here. 

Hallo  !  here. 

I  come  directly. 

I  hear  and  obey. 

Directly. 

Let  us  go  (on  foot). 

Let  us  go  (in  a  carriage). 

Go  on. 

Drive  gently. 

Never  mind,  or  nothing. 

Hurry  quick. 

Drive  tivster. 

Have  a  care. 

Give  room,  give  place. 

To  the  right. 

To  the  left. 

Go  further  on. 

Drive  home. 

Stop, 

Tell  me. 

What  is  it  ? 

How  do  they  call  it  ? 

What  does  it  cost? 

How  much  the  aishin? 

How  much  the  pound  ? 

It  is  dear. 

It  is  much. 

It  is  cheap. 

Can  you  give  change? 

I  don't  know. 

Not  wanted. 

I  won't  have. 

Is  it  ready  ? 

Set  the  tea-urn. 

Give  us  a  spoon. 

What's  to  be  done? 

What's  o'clock  ? 

In  how  many  hours  ? 

Is  it  possible  ? 

Where  is  the  inn  ? 

How  many  versts  ? 

Wheie  is  the  landlord? 

I  will  pass  the  night  here. 

When  do  you  start  ? 

To-day, 


Dzyeni  dohri. 

Dohra  nets, 

Zhegnam, 

Proshen,  yeslilaska. 

Dzyenkuyen. 

Davai! 

Kto  tarn  ? 

Puidz  tit. 

Khe!  slukJiai! 

Zaraz  pzhy'iden. 

Slukham. 

Zaraz. 

Pudzyemi. 

Poyedzyem. 

Pdz  pretch. 

Volno. 

To  nits. 

Prendzei. 

Ycdz  prendzi. 

Ostrozhnye. 

Zdrogi. 

Na  pravo. 

Na  levo. 

Ycdz  dalei. 

Po  domu, 

Stui. 

Proshen  mi  poviedzyets. 

Tso  to  yest  ? 

Yak  to  syen  naziva  9 

Tso  to  koshtuye  i 

Po  tchemii  arshin  ? 

Po  tchemii  funt  ? 

To  drogo. 

To  duzho. 

To  tan;  10. 

Tchi  mojzhe  dats  reshten  ? 

Nye  viem. 

Nye  potzheba. 

Nye  khtscn. 

2'chi  gotov '/ 

Poda'i  proshen  samovar. 

Poda'i  proshen  lyzhken. 

Tso  teraz  robits  i 

Ktura  godzina "? 

Za  He  godzin  9 

Tchi  to  bits  mozhe  f 

Gdzye  traktyernya  i 

Vyele  v;/orst  9 

Gdzye  gospodazh — gdzye  pan  ? 

Ya  khtscn  tuta'i  pgzhcnotsovats. 

Kycdi  Pan  veyedzye  i 

Dzis, 


R  3 


348 


8. —  Words  and  Phrases, 


Sect.  III. 


Poland. 


To-morrow. 

In  an  hour. 

It  is  time  to  be  off. 

Which  is  the  way  to  — —  ? 

Pray  show  me  the  way. 

"What  kind  of  a  road  is  it? 

Are  the  horses  to  ? 

What  is  it  to  pay  for  them  ? 

Drink  money. 

I  will  give  you  drink  money. 

I  will  not  give  you  drink  money. 

W^hat  station  is  it  ? 

How  long  do  we  stop  ? 

Where  is  the  refreshment-room  ? 

Where  is  the  W.  C.  ? 

Wliere  is  the  telegraph-office  ? 


Where  is  the  luggage? 


Yutro. 

Za  godzincn, 

Pora  yehats. 

Kturendi  droga  do ? 

Poshen  pokazats  mi  droguen, 

Yaka  to  droga  ? 

Tshi  yuj  zapjzhenjzhono  ? 

Tso  syen  nalezhi  i 

Trinkgeld,  na  vudhcn. 

Ya  dam  na  vudken. 

Ya  nye  dam  na  vudhcn. 

Yaka  to  stats  ia  '/ 

Yak  dingo  syen  zatzhimuyc? 

Gdzye  yest  buffet  ? 

Gdzye  ycst  prevet, 

Gdzye  telegraff 

Gdzye  pakunhi  i 


Names  op  the  ^Ionths,  &c. 


.Tanuaiy 

Stitshen. 

Wednesday 

Sroda. 

February 

Luti. 

Thursday 

Tchvarteh, 

March 

Mazhets. 

Friday 

Pyontek. 

April 

Kvyetsyen. 

Saturday 

Sobota. 

j\lay 

Mai. 

Sunday 

Nyedzyela, 

June 

Tshervyets. 

Winter 

Zima. 

July 

Lipyets. 

Summer 

Lato. 

August 

Syerpycn. 

A  year 

Rok. 

September 

Vzhesyen, 

A  month 

Myesyonts. 

October 

Pazdezyemih. 

A  week 

Tydzyen. 

November 

Listopad. 

A  day 

Dzyen. 

December 

Grudzyen. 

An  hour 

Godzina. 

Monday 

Ponyedzalek, 

Half  an  hour 

Pulgodziny, 

Tuesday 

Vtorek. 

The  Numerals. 

1.   Yeden. 

21.  Dva-dzyestsy 

a  ycden. 

2.  Dva, 

22.  Bva-dzyestsyadva. 

a.   Tshi. 

And  so  on,  always  adding  the  unit  up 

4.  Tshteri. 

to  ten  ;  and  then 

5.  Pyents. 

30.    Tshidzyesisi. 

6.  Shests. 

40.   Tchterdzyestsi. 

7.  Syedem, 

50.  Pyents-dzycs 

yont. 

8.  Osyem. 

60.  Shests-dzyesyont. 

9.  Dzyevyents. 

70.  Syedem-dzyesyont, 

10.  Dzyesyents. 

80.   Osyem-dzyesyont. 

11.   Yeden-nastsye. 

90.  Dzyevyents-dzyesyont. 

12.  Di'a-nastsy€. 

100.  Sto. 

And  so  on,  always  adding  nastsye  to 

.500.  Pyents  set. 

each  number,  up 

to 

1000.   Tisyonts. 

20.  Jha-dzyestsya. 

•\ 


9. — Literature. 


9. — Literature. 


349 


It  lias  already  been  mentioned  in  the  Historical  Notice  that  until  towards 
the  end  of  the  eighteenth  century  the  Polish  historians  wrote  almost  exclu- 
sively in  the  Latin  language.  Poland  has  also  produced  more  than  one 
poet  whose  habitual  literary  language  was  the  Latin.  The  sermons  of  one 
of  her  finest  preachers  (Skarga — end  of  sixteenth  and  beginning  of  seven- 
teenth century)  have  been  translated  into  French.  The  best  available 
account  of  Polish  literature,  ancient  and  modern,  for  readers  in  the  West  of 
FAirope,  is  to  be  found  in  Mickiewicz's  lectures, entitled  *Cours  de  Litte'rature 
Slave.'  Mickiewicz's  poems  have  been  translated  into  French  by  his  fellow- 
countryman,  Christian  Ostrowski.  Mickiewicz,  Krasinski,  and  Bogdan 
Zaleski,  the  three  greatest  poets  of  modern  Poland,  all  died  in  exile 
since  1855.  Mickiewicz  was  a  native  of  Lithuania,  Krasinski  of  the 
kingdom  of  Poland,  Bogdan  Zaleski  of  the  Ukraine.  Lelewel,  one  of 
the°most  learned  historians  of  Poland,  and  a  leading  member  of  the 
democratic  party  in  the  Polish  emigration,  died  at  Paris  in  1861.  Szai- 
nocha,  a  less  political  and  more  impartial  historian  than  Lelewel,  whose 
labours  (which  have  cost  him  his  sight)  throw  great  light  on  the  origin 
of  Poland  and  the  Polish  nobility,  lives  at  Lemberg  (Galicia),  where 
Vincent  Pol,  the  author  of  numerous  charming  poems,  also  resides.  Vincent 
Pol  was  half  murdered  in  the  Galician  massacres  of  1846.  The  young  poet 
Piomanowski  was  killed  in  the  late  insurrection.  The  poetess  "  Deotyma," 
celebrated  for  her  improvisations,  lived  in  Warsaw  until  the  troubles  of  1863, 
when,  her  father  being  sent  into  exile,  she  determined  to  accompany  him. 
Modern  Polish  literature  is  nearly  all  of  one  colour,  and  founded  on  one 
sad  theme ;  and,  in  the  lives  of  the  principal  writers,  that  of  the  country 
itself  seems  to  be  reflected. 


10. — Measures,  Weights,  and  Coins. 

The  legal  measures  and  weights  are  the  same  as  in  Piussia ;  but  some  of 
the  German  weights  and  measures  are  still  used  in  trade. 

'J'he  coinage  is  the  same  as  in  Pussia,  with  the  exception  of  a  coin,  much 
current,  called  10  grosh,  value  5  copcks. 


ROUTES. 


[The  names  of  places  are  printed  in  italics  only  in  those  routes  where  the  places  are  described.'] 


'  ROUTE  PAGE 

34.  Berlin  to  Warsaw,  via  Brom- 

berg  nnd  Thorn 351 

35.  St.  Potorsburg  to  Warsaw,  via 

Wilna 360 

36.  Vienna  to  Warr^aw 361 

37.  Warsaw  to  Lodz 362 

38.  Warsaw  to  Sandomir,  up   the 

Vistula .362 

39.  Warsaw  to  Prussian  Frontier, 

down  the  Vistula    ....  362 


ROUTE  PAGE 

40.  Warsaw  to  Cracow,  via  Badom 

and  Kidtse 363 

41.  Warsaw  to  Novogeorgievsk .     .  364 

42.  Warsaw    to    St.    Petersburg, 

via  Pultush,  OsfrolenJm,  and 
Kowno 364 

43.  Warsaw  to  Moscow,  via  Brest- 

Litevslci  and  Bolyrukh      .     .  364 

44.  Warsaw  to  Kief,  via  Brest  .     .  365 

45.  Warsaw  to  Lemberg,  via  Xw&Zm  366 


KOUTE  34. 

BERLIN  TO  WARSAW,  VIA  BR05IBERG    AND 
THORN,   BY   RAIL. 

Trains  from  the  Eastern  Railway 
(Frankfort-on-Odcr)  Terminus  at  Berlin 
morning  and  evening  {vide  Handbook 
for  Northern  Germany). 

The  kingdom  of  Poland  is  entered  at 
Alexandrov,  frontier  stat.,  where  pass- 
ports and  luggage  are  examined. 

The  next  stat.  is 

Vlotslavek,  on  the  Vistula,  about 
120  m.  from  Warsaw.  Pop.  8500. 
Considerable  trade  in  grain.  A  ca- 
thedral. 

Ostrov.  There  is  a  large  sugar 
manufactory  here.  A  line  hence  to 
Posen  is  projected,  and  being  surveyed. 

Kutno,  80  m.,  a  town  of  5600  Inhab., 
on  small  river  Okhna. 

Lovit.>>h,  52  m.,  a  district  town  on 
river  Bzur,  of  great  antiquity,  having 
existed  as  early  as  the  12th  centy. 
Pop.  6000.  It  is  now  a  thriving  in- 
dustrial and  commercial  town.  Con- 
siderable  fairs   for  horses   and    cattle 


held  there.  At  a  short  distance  from 
the  town,  at  Lishkovitse',  is  a  largo 
sugar-refinery;  in  the  vicinity  is  Nie- 
borov,  a  fine  castle,  and  Arcadia,  a 
pretty  villa,  belonging  to  the  Princes 
Kadziwill. 

Skiemievitse,  about  40  m.  from 
Warsaw.  Pop.  3000.  Junction  for 
Vienna-Warsaw  Eailway.  This  was 
anciently  the  residence  of  the  Arch- 
bishops of  Gnesen,  Princes  Primate  of 
Poland.  It  was  given  by  the  Emperor 
Alexander  I.,  together  with  some  ex- 
tensive domains  confiscated  by  the 
Prussian  Government  after  the  partition 
of  Poland,  to  Marie  Grudzinska,  created 
at  the  same  time  Princess  of  Lovitsli, 
on  the  occasion  of  her  marriage  with 
the  Grand  Duke  Constantino,  brother  of 
the  Emperor.  At  her  death  the  Prin- 
cess bequeathed  all  this  property  to  tlio 
kings  of  Poland.  A  fine  deer-park  to 
be  seen.  , 

Ruda  Guzovska,  27  m.  There  is  a 
flax-mill  here,  founded  by  Gerard,  a 
French  engineer  resident  in  Poland. 
A  short  distance  from  the  stat.  arc 
some  of  the  largest  sugar  manufactories 


352 


Boiite  34. —  Warsaw, 


Sect.  III. 


in  Poland,  viz.,  at  Guzov,  Hermanov, 
and  Oryshev. 

Two  small  stats,  beyond  (Grodzisk 
and  Pruslikov)  is 

Warsaw.— Pop.  181,000. 

Hotels.— Hotel  do  I'Europc,  cuisino 
bad;  11.  d'Angleterre,  cuisino  good, 
accommodation  very  bad  (Napoleon' 
occupied  a  room  here  on  liis  flight  from 
Moscow) ;  the  Cracow,  Paris,  Vilenski, 
Rome,  and  Saxe  Hotels. 

Bestaurants.— At  the  Hotel  do  I'Eu- 
rope  and  the  Hotel  d" Angle terre. 

Vehicles. — Drojkies  are  stationed  in 
the  streets.  The  fare  is  20  coi)ecks  tlie 
journey,  or  75  cops,  i)cr  hour.  The 
charge  for  a  whole  day  is  5  rubles  (15s,). 
Elegant  and  clean  carriages  may  bo  ob- 
tained at  the  hotels. 

Cliihs.  — The  Resource  of  the  Mer- 
chants and  the  New  Resource  of  the 
Merchants.  The  Russian  Club,  in  the 
confiscated  Zamoyski  palace,  in  New 
World-street.  Strangers  may  become 
members,  but  must  be  balloted  for. 

British  Comulate  General. — Corner 
of  the  Alice  and  Place  Ujazdovski, 
where  any  information  can  be  obtained 
relative  to  passports,  &c. 

Topography. — Warsaw  is  situated  on 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Vistula,  at  a  con- 
siderable elevation  alcove  the  water- 
level.  The  Prague  suburb  lies  on  the 
rt.  bank  of  the  river.  Founded  in  the 
r2th  centy.,  it  became  in  tlie  14tli  tlie 
Beat  of  the  princes  of  the  royal  family  of 
Piast,  appanaged  by  the  ducliy  of  Ma- 
sovia.  On  the  extinction  of  that  brancli 
at  tiie  commencement  of  the  lOtli  centy., 
tlie  duchy  of  Masovia,  a  feudal  posses- 
sion of  Poland,  reverted  to  the  Crown, 
and  soon  after  the  kings  of  Poland,  1x3- 
gimiing  with  Sigismund  HI.,  made  War- 
saw their  residence,  and  consequently  the 
capital  of  the  kingdom. 

The  town  was  originally  composed  of 
the  Stare  Miasto,  or  old  town,  strongly 
rcsembUng  the  old  towns  of  Germany. 
The  castle  of  the  Dukes  of  Masovia 
stood  at  one  extremity,  and  it  was  en- 
circled by  vast  suburbs,  long  since  incor- 
pomted  with  the  town.  Its  present  ap- 
pearance is  pretty,  gay,  and  animated, 


but  it  offers  little  of  interest  to  the  tra- 
veller who  is  not  attracted  by  business 
or  by  a  desire  to  make  the  country  his 
special  study. 

In  order  to  have  a  general  view  of 
the  town  tlie  visitor  should  proceed  to 
the  terminus  of  the  St.  Petersburg  Rly., 
in  the  Prague  suburb,  whence  a  vast 
panorama  spreads  out  in  every  direction. 
On  the  high  bank  of  the  Vistula  oppo- 
site will  be  seen  successively  the  cita- 
del, the  old  portions  of  the  town,  the 
castle  {Zameli)  with  its  gardens,  the 
new  parts  of  the  town,  and,  lastly,  the 
public  promenades  and  gardens  which 
environ  the  imjierial  villa  of  Lazienki. 
For  a  bird's-eye  view  the  traveller 
should  ascend  the  cupola  of  the  Lu- 
theran ch.  From  that  elevation  will 
be  seen  the  scxuare  of  the  Royal  Castle 
and  the  4  princijial  arteries  of  circula- 
tion : — the  1st  through  the  old  town, 
towards  the  citadel  and  the  country- 
seats  of  INIariemont  and  Bielany;  the 
2nd  along  Senator-st..  Electoral-st.,  and 
Khlodna-st.,  towards  the  Vola  suburb ; 
the  ord  along  the  street  called  the  Cracow 
suburb,  through  New  World-st.  and  the 
avenues  towards  Lazienki  and  the  Castle 
of  Villanov  ;  and  the  4th  across  the 
bridge  on  the  Vistula,  and  through  the 
Prague  suburb,  towards  the  battle- 
ground of  Grokhov. 

The  Square  of  the  Royal  Castle  should 
be  the  starting-point  for  visiting  the 
town  in  detail.  It  was  the  scene  of  the 
most  important  popular  demonstra- 
tions in  18<;i,  wiien  it  was  twice 
stained  witii  the  blood  of  the  people. 
A  bronze  statue  stands  in  the  square,  re- 
presenting King  Sigismund  III.  (Wasa), 
erected  on  a  monolith  of  native  marble, 
by  his  son  Vladislas  IV.,  ornamented 
with  Polish  eagles,  and  recently  sur- 
rounded with  fountains.  Opposite  is 
the  Royal  Castle,  called  the  Zamel:, 
Iniilt  by  the  Dukes  of  Masovia.  Addi- 
tions were  made  to  it  by  Sigismund 
III.  and  Vladislas  IV.  of  tl^o  Wasa 
dynasty,  whoso  arms  are  still  seen  on 
the  keystones  of  the  arches.  The 
castle  was  restored  by  Augustus  III.  of 
Saxony,  and  embellished  by  Stanislaus 
Augustus  Poniatowski.     The  pictures 


Poland. 


Route  34. —  Warsaio. 


353 


and  objects  of  art  by  which   it  was 
ndomea  were  carried  away  after  1831 
to  St.  Petersburg  and  Moscow.    Since 
that  year  the  castle  has  ceased  to  be  an 
imperial  residence.     The  royal  apart- 
ments, situated  in  the  eastern  part  of 
the  building  nearest  the  gardens  and 
the  Vistula,  are  occupied  by  the  Lieu- 
tenant of  the  Emperor.    Tlie  western 
part  of  the  edifice,  near  the  square,  con- 
taining the  halls  where  the  Senate  and 
the  Chamber  of  Deputies    of  Poland 
once  assembled,  is  now  a  barrack.     The 
arches  that  support  the  terraces  of  the 
gardens    are    converted    into    cavalry 
stables,      A   small  palace,  called  Fod 
blakhon,  situate^d  below  the  castle,  bought 
of  the  Counts  Lubomirski  by  King  Sta- 
nislaus Augustus,  for  his  nephew  Prince 
Joseph  Poniatowski,  and  now  occupied 
by   the    Diplomatic  Chancery   of   the 
Lieutenant,    communicates     with     the 
castle.     A  gallery  leads  from  the  latter 
to  the  royal  pew  in  the  cathedral. 

Having  obtained  a  general  idea  of 
the  topography  of  the  town,  and  visited 
the  Castle  Square,  the  tiTiveller  who  can 
alford  the  time  should  take  the  4  walks 
here  described,  and  stop  to  see  the 
buildings  and  objects  enumerated. 
Those,  however,  who  do  not  wish  to 
stay  more  than  a  day  or  two  at  Warsaw 
(and  few  travellers  have  found  it  neces- 
sary to  remain  longer),  will  be  satisfied 
with  viewing  the  castle  and  some  of  the 
princely  residences  in  which  the  city 
abounds.  A  visit  to  Villanov  and  La- 
zienki must  not  in  any  case  be  omitted. 
If  driving  be  substituted  for  walking, 
all  the  places  to  which  the  traveller 
is  here  introduced  may  be  seen  in  2 
ilays. 

1st  WaVc—Leaving  the  Castle  Square 
by  St.  John-st.,  the  Old  Town  will  Ije 
entered.  First  will  be  seen  the  Cathe- 
dral, built  in  the  I3th  centy.  It  be- 
came an  archie} )iscopal  ch.  in  1818, 
having  been  previously  only  collegiate. 
It  was  restored  and  ornamented  by  the 
kings  Michael  Visniovietski  and  John 
Sobleski,  whose  arms  are  seen  over  the 
royal  pew  and  the  stalls.  There  is  a 
fine  portrait  in  mosaic  of  the  Prince 
Pruiiato  Poniatowski,  brother   of  the 


King.    A  monument  by  Thorwaldsen 
is    dedicated    to  Count   Malakhovski, 
Marshal  of  the  celebrated  Diet  which 
drew  up  the  Constitution  of  the  8rd 
May,  1792.     The  inscription  on  it  is — 
Przyiacieloid  ludu  (to  the  friend  of  the 
people).      Another  monument  records 
the  death  of  the  learned  Bishop  Al- 
bertrandi,    a    distinguished    historian, 
and  the  first  President  of  the  Society 
of  the  Friends  of  Science,   a  kind  of 
academy,  founded  after  the  partition 
of  Poland,   under  Prussian  rule,  and 
suppressed  by  the  Russian  Government 
in  1831,   A  portrait  of  Cardinal  Hosius, 
Bishop  of  Varmie  (Ermerland),  a  Pole, 
and  President  of  the  Council  of  Trent ; 
and  the  tombs  of  2  Dukes  of  Warsaw, 
brothers,  of  whom  one  was  a  bishop, 
the  other  a  soldier,  complete  the  list 
of  remarkable  objects    in  the  cath.  to 
which  the  attention   of   the  stranger 
need  be  directed.     2.  Leavhig  the  ch., 
and  proceeding  along  St.  Jolm-st.,  the 
Square  of  the  Old  Town  will  be  crossed. 
Beyond,  in  Freta-st.,  are  the  chs.  of 
the  ancient  convents  of  the  Paulines  and 
the  Dominicans  (an  old  and  tine  Gothic 
building).      3.    Passing    through    the 
quarter  called  New  Town,  the  visitor 
will  come  to  the  Ch.  of  Our  Lady,  the 
most  ancient  sacred  edifice  in  Warsaw, 
but  retaining  no  traces  of  its  antiquity ; 
then  the   Ch.   of  the   Franciscans  {'^)', 
and  beyond,   again,   the  Sapieha  and 
Sierdkovski  Barracks  (5),  built  at  the 
expense    of   those  illustrious  families. 
6.   Leaving  these  behind,   the   visitor 
will  reach  the  Citadel,  built  in  1831, 
at  the  expense  of  the  town  of  Warsaw, 
as  a  punishment  for  the  insurrection  of 
1830,  and  with  the  object  of  bombard- 
ing the  town  in  case  of  another  revolu- 
tion.   Within  the  citidel  are  several 
barracks,  the  arsenal,  the  prison  for  poli- 
tical offenders,  and  the  military  tri- 
bunal by  which  they  are  judged.  There 
is  also  a  Russian  ch.,  which  was  once 
a  Roman  Catholic  place  of  worship, 
attached  to  a  college  now  suppressed. 

7.  Passing  the  citadel  and  the  town, 
a  walk  of  2  hrs.  will  enable  the  traveller 
to  visit  Mariemont,  an  old  country-seat 
of  the  wife  of  John  Sobieski ;  8,  Cas- 
kada,  much  frequented  by  the  inhabs. 


354 


Boute  34. —  Warsaw: 


Sect.  III. 


of  Warsaw ;  9,  Bielany,  a  pretty  pkce 
on  the  Vistuld,  commanding  a  fine 
view;  10,  Camaldolite  Ch.  and  con- 
vent; 11,  the  Summer  Camp  of  the 
Russian  troops  quartered  at  Warsaw; 
and  (12)  the  Catholic  Cemetery  of 
FovonsJii,  full  of  fine  monuments  and 
tonabs  of  men  remarkable  in  politics, 
science,  and  art. 

On  returning  to  town  the  Field  of 
Mars  (lo),  or  mihtary  exercise-ground, 
will  be  passed ;  also  the  Israelite  Hos- 
mtal  (14),  the  best  kept  of   all  the 
hospitals   in   to^vn ;    (15)   the  Lunatic 
Asylum;    and    farther  still   (IG),    the 
populous  trading  and  ill-smeUing  quar- 
ter occupied  by  Jews,  where  the  Iron- 
worhs  of  Messrs.   Evans,  Lillpop,   and 
liau,  tlio  largest  establishment  of  the 
kind  in  the  country,  are  situated.     In 
Krasiiiski-squarc,  beyond,  is  the  Senate- 
house  (17),   or  old    Krasinski   Palace, 
given  by  that  illustrious  family  to  the 
Republic  of  Polan<l,  to  be  converted  to 
the  purposes  of  a  High  Court  of  Justice. 
In  the  same  square  is  (18)  the  liussian 
Cathedral,  once  the  ch.  of  the  College, 
suppressed  in  1832,  of  the  Fratrum  Sco^ 
larum-piarum,  who.  in  the  latter  part 
of  the  existence  of  Poland,   produced 
some  of  the  most  distinguished  men  in 
the  country. 

Following  Miodova-strcet,  the  travel- 
ler will  see  successively  (TJ)  the  Ch.  of 
the  Basilians  of  tlie  Uniat  Confession, 
containing  some  fine  pictures  over  the 
Smuglericz  altar;  (20)  the  Palace  of  the 
Archbishops  of  Warsaw,  inhabited  lastl)y 
Archbishop  Fialkovski,  whose  name  is 
known  in  connexion  with  the  demon- 
strations of  1801,  and  by  Archbishop 
Felinski   before    his    exile ;    close    to 
it  is  (21)  the  fine  Palace  of  the  Pac 
(Pats)  family,  now   confiscated;    (22) 
the   Ch.  of  the   Capucins,   whose  con- 
vent, just  sui)pressed,  was  founded  by 
King  John  111.  Sobieski,  in   token  of 
gratitude  for  his  victory  over  tlie  Turks 
at  Vienna.     In  a  chapel  within  tliis  cli. 
is  a  sarcophagus,  conkiining  the  heart 
of  that  monareii,  erected  in  his  lionour 
by  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  in  182'J,  after 
the   war  with   Turkey.     In    the   same 
chapel  is  a  sepulchral  uni,  dedicated  to 
i lie   memory  of  King   Stanislaus  Au- 


gustus Poniatowski,  witli  the  inscrip- 
tion, Morte  quis  fortiori  Gloria  et 
Amor.  Following  Miodova-st.,  Sena- 
tor-street will  be  reached  near  the  Royal 
Castle,  at  the  ix)int  from  which  tho 
visitor  set  out. 

2nd   TF«Z/^.— Starting    from    Castle- 
sq.,  and   turning  into  Senator-str.,  the 
first  building  that  will  meet   the   eye 
is   (1)  the    old  Palace    of  the  Princes 
Primate.     The  Archbishops  of  Gnesen, 
Primates  of  the  Church  of  Poland,  inde- 
pendently of  their  high  position  in  the 
ecclesiastical  hierarchy,   rendered  still 
more  ])rilliant  by  the  dignity  of  Legato 
of  the  Holy  Apostolic  See,  wiiich  tliey 
enjoyed  by  right  (Legatus  iiafus),  were 
the  first  senators  in  tlie  kingdom,  and, 
in  the  intervals  between  the;  death  of  a 
king  and  the  coronation  of  his  succes- 
sor, they  were  at  the  head  of  the  Govern- 
ment {interrex).     Their  palace  at  War- 
saw was  confiscated,  with  other  pro- 
perty of  the  Bishops,  by  the  Prussian 
Government,    after    the    jiartition    of 
Poland.     The  Minister  of  War  resided 
in  this  palace  until  18:J1 ;   and,  after 
having  been   occupied  by  various  Go- 
vernment olHces  until  18(J2,  it  is  now 
approi)riated  by  the  ^linistry  of  Public 
Instruction.     Following   this   street,   a 


fine  square  is  reache<l,  on  which  stands 
(2)  the  Hotel  de   Ville  (Police-Office), 
formerly  the  palace  of  tlie  Princes  Ja- 
blonovski,  burned  down  in  18G3.     (3) 
The     Theatre,    or     rather    2    theatres 
within  the  siime  builihng,  will  be  seen 
in  this  square.     The  theatres  are  suji- 
in>i'ted  by  the  Government,  and  consti- 
tute a  mono])oly.    The  Balleterinas  are 
very  good  at  Warsaw.    Italian   operas 
are  sometimes  given.  (4)  The  iV///Mvill 
be  seen  in  Biilanska-st.,  oft'  tlie  square. 
Proceeding  aloug  Senator-str.  the  tra- 
veller will  come  to  (5)   the  lieformed 
Church  (belonging  to  a  reformed  order 
of  Franciscan   friars).     This   beautiliil 
edifice  contains  a  monument  to  Grand 
IMarshal    Bieliuski,     who     contributed 
greatly  towards  introducing  oriler  and 
a  police  system  in  the  ancient  Republic. 
In  front  of  the  ch.  is  (6)  a  Statue  of  the 
Holy  Virgin,  very  prettily  illumiiiated 
at  night.     Opposite  is  (7)  a  Clah,  ctilled 


Poland. 


Boute  34. — Warsaw. 


355 


Tlie  Besource  of  the  Merchants,  located 
in  a  palace  that  once  belonged  to  the 
Marquises    Myszkovski,    whose     title 
and  entailed  estates  have  passed  to  the 
family  of  Count  Wielopolski,  so  well 
known  in  connection  with  revolutions 
in   Poland.     The  Bank   Squ.are   is  a 
little  way  beyond.    In  it  stands  (8)  the 
Palace  of  the  Counts  Zamoiski,  built  in 
a  few  weeks  by  King  Augustus  II.,  for 
the  Countess  Orzelska,  his  much-loved 
natural  daughter.     Belonging  at  pre- 
sent to  one  of  the  richest  and  most 
illustrious  families  of  Poland,  it  con- 
tains   some    fine   pictures,   and  many 
remarkable   objects  of  art.     Opposite 
is  (9)  the  Bank  of  Poland,  with  a  fine 
Exchange-hall.     Next  to  this  are  (10) 
the  handsome  l)uikUngs  of  the  Ministry 
of  Finance.     Following  the  Bymarska 
and  Przhejazd  streets  in  the  same  di- 
rection, the  Old  Arsenal  (11)  will  be 
seen,  where,   on  the   29th  November, 
the   most  sanguinary  conflict  at   the 
beginning  of  the   revolution   of  ISoO 
took  place  ;  there  also  is  the  Ministry 
of  the  Interior,    in  the   old  Mostovski 
Palace   (12).     Returning  a  short  dis- 
tance    and    following    ie8/<no- street, 
the  traveller  will  pass  by  (13)  the  Evan- 
gelical   Chapel,   where  the  sei-vices  of 
the  Church  of  England  used  to  be  per- 
formed by  an  English  clergyman.  The 
Church  and  the  Convent  of  the  Carmel- 
ites (14j,  used  as  a  prison  lx?fore  the 
construction  of   the    citadel,   stand  a 
little   farther  on.     It  was  the  uncon- 
stitutional incarceration  of  a  number 
of  persons  in  this  prison  that  provoked 
the  revolution  of  1830.    Entering  Elek- 
toralna-atreet,    and    following    it,    the 
tourist  will  come  to  the  Church  of  St. 
Charles  Borromeo  (lo),  a  recent  edifice 
of  great  elegance  ;   the  wood-work  is  of 
the  larch,  grown  in  the  country. 

Leaving  the  town  by  the  Vola  barrier, 
tlie  Evangelical  Cemetery  (16)  may  Ix; 
visited.  John  Cockerell,  to  whom 
Belgium  owes  so  much  of  her  indus- 
trial prosperity,  lies  buried  there. 
Refreshments  may  be  obtained  at  (17) 
tlie  Ohm  Gardens,  in  the  vicinity,  a 
favourite  resort  of  the  inliabitantd  of 
Warsaw. 

18.  The  Bussian  Cemetery  has  been 


formed  since  1831,  within  the  fort  con- 
structed  for   the   defence   of  Warsaw. 
At  the  centre  of  the  fort  stands  (19)  the 
old  parish  church  of  Vola,  now  trans- 
formed   into  a  Russian    church.      In 
1831,   during    tlie    siege    of  Warsaw, 
whicli  might  almost  be  called  a  battle 
in  front  of  Vola  fort.  General  Sovinski, 
its    commandant,   was    killed    by   the 
Russian  troops  at  the  foot  of  the  altar 
in  that  ch.,  having  refused  to  surrender. 
A  new  parochial  Catholic  church  (20) 
has  recently  been  constructed,  in  lieu 
of  the  one  appropriated  to  the  use  of 
the  Russo-Greek  Church.     It  is  built 
after  the  exact  model  of  the  old  ch.,  and 
stands  in  the   centre  of  the  plain  on 
which,    in   the    16th,    17th,   and   18th 
centuries,   the  kings  of    Poland   were 
elec ted.    Half-an-hour's  walk  will  bring 
the   tourist  to   (21)    Bashyn,   a   small 
townlet,  celebrated  for  the  battle  which 
Prince  Jos.  Poniatowski  fought  there 
in  1809  with  the  Austrians,  and  to  (22) 
Falody,  once  a  royal  ciistle,  and  now 
belonging  to  Count  Przezdziecki,  with 
fine  gardens  and  conservatories.    Pisci- 
culture is  pursued  here  on  a  large  scale. 
The  town  will  be  re-entered  by  tho 
Jerusalem  Barrier,  along  a  fine  avenue 
of    poplars,  which   runs   down  to  the 
Vistula.      The     Warsaw- Vienna    Bly. 
Stat.  (23)  will   be   passed,  and  oppo- 
site to  it  ^24)  Kronenherg's  Cigar  Manu- 
factory.    Turning  to  the  I.  into   Ma- 
zovietska-st.,  the  Hospital  of  the  Infant 
Jesus  (25),  for  foundlings,  one  of  the 
largest  civil  hospitals  in  Warsaw,  will 
be  seen.     A  little  beyond  is  the  fine 
house   and  offices  of  (26)   the    Cre'dit 
Fonder  of  Poland.      The  Agricultural 
Society,  associated  with  the  events  of 
1861,  held  its  meetings  there.     Next  to 
it  stands  (27)  the  Lutheran  Ch.,  a  largo 
structure  with  an  imposing  cupola,  but 
built     with    very    little     taste,    com- 
menced by  Turkish  prisoners  in  tho 
reign    of   John     Sobieski.       28.    Tho 
Saxony   Gardens  (Jardin  de    Saxe),  a 
very  fine  public  park,  with  magnificent 
chesnut-trees,  are  immediately  opposite. 
They  once  apiK'rtained  to  a  maison  de 
plaisance,  built  by  Augustus  II.,  king 
of  Poland,  of  the  Saxon  dynasty,  whence 
the  name.     The  house,  which  was  in  a 


35G 


Boiite  34. — Warsaw. 


Sect.  III. 


very  pretty  stylo  of  architecture,  was 
deraolishcd  and  replaced  by  a  useless 
colonnade  and  two  very  largo  blocks  of 
buildings  of  little  beauty.  At  one 
extremity  of  the  gardens  is  (29)  tlie 
Market-place,  with  "  the  Irongate"  and 
the  Gostinnol  Dvor,  or  bazaar,  a  pretty 
building.  At  the  otlier  end  of  tlie 
square  is  (30)  Saxony  Square  (Place  do 
Saxe),  where  military  reviews  are  held. 
A  monument  was  to  have  been  erected 
on  it,  by  national  subscription,  to  the 
memory  of  Prince  Joseph  Poniatowski, 
tlie  brilliant  Polish  leader,  who  jk}- 
rished  at  the  battle  of  Leipsig  in  1813. 
A  bronze  equestrian  statue  had  already 
been  cast  by  Thorwaldsen  when  the  in- 
surrection of  1830  prevented  its  erec- 
tion. After  1831  the  Emperor  Nicholas 
made  a  ])resent  of  the  statue  to  Prince 
Paskewitch,  the  victor  of  Warsaw,  who 
caused  the  head  of  the  statue  to  be 
rei)laced  by  another  bearing  his  own 
features,  and  the  monmnent,  in  that 
condition,  to  bo  erected  on  his  immense 
estates  of  Ilomel,  in  the  province 
of  Mohileflf,  purchased,  it  is  said,  out 
of  the  savings  which  he  had  made 
during  the  25  years  of  his  viceroyalty 
in  Poland.  In  place  of  the  statue  ori- 
gimdly  contemplated  the  Emperor  Ni- 
cholas caused  (31)  a  monument  in  the 
shape  of  a  truncated  obelisk  to  be 
erected  in  Saxony-square,  commemo- 
rative of  the  supposed  lidelity  of  the 
Polish  generals  who  perished  in  the 
revolution  of  the  29th  Nov.  1830,  and 
of  whom  many  were  killed,  by  acci- 
dent or  mistake,  while  going  to  join 
the  regiments  that  had  declared  in 
favour  of  the  insurrection.  32.  The 
Bruhl  Palace  likewise  stands  in  Saxony- 
square  ;  it  was  built  by  Count  Bnihl, 
minister  and  favourite  of  Augustus  III., 
and  occupied  between  1815  and  1830 
by  the  Grand  Duke  Constantino,  brother 
of  the  Emperor  Nicholas,  and  Com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  Polish  army. 
Marquis  Wielo}X)lski  took  up  his  resi- 
dence there  in  1802  and  1803.  33. 
The  Ildtel  de  VEurope,  a  liirge  and 
fine  building  confisciited  by  the  Govern- 
ment in  1863,  after  the  assassination 
of  a  spy,  stands  at  the  other  end  of  the 
square. 


^rd  Walk. — A  third  excursion  may 
be  undertaken  from  the  same  square  of 
the  Royal  Castle,  beginning  by  the  street 
called  the  Cracow  Faubourg.  The  fol- 
lowing remarkable  objects  will  bo 
passed  : — 1.  Church  of  the  Convent  of  the 
Bernardhies,  now  suppressed  ;  one  of 
the  2  churches  entered  by  the  Russian 
troops  in  18G1,  a  largo  building  of  con- 
siderable beauty  :  the  architecture  of 
the  cloisters  will  repay  inspection. 
2.  Next  to  it,  the  house  of  the  Benevolent 
Society,  with  the  inscription  Res  sacra 
misor. :  among  other  charitable  works 
the  society  distributes  soup  gratuitously, 
and  supplies  a  dinner  to  the  poor  at  the 
rate  of  a  halfi)enny  p<'r  head.  This 
house  was  occupied  diu-ing  the  French 
emigration  by  Louis  XVIII.  3.  In 
front  of  it  is  a  small  Statue  of  the  Virgin^ 
before  which,  in  18G1,  the  populace  was 
kneeling  in  prayer  when  they  were 
charged  by  the  Cossacks  with  lance, 
sabre,  and  whip.  The  street  narrowed 
considerably  at  this  jmrt,  to  spread  out 
fjirther  on,  and  it  is  therefore  being 
widened.  4,  The  Post-office.  5.  The 
pretty  Ch.  of  the  Carmelites,  suppressed. 
The  ancient  archives  of  the  Crown  of 
Poland  are  kei)t  in  this  convent.  The 
archives  of  Lithuania  were  removed  to 
St.  Petersburg,  where  they  remain  in  a 
state  which  tlie  student  of  history  must 
ever  deplore.  6.  Contiguous  to  it  is 
the  Palace  of  the  Nam?'estnil:,  so  called 
from  its  having  been  the  residence  of 
the  Namiestnik.  or  Lieutenant  of  the 
Emperor,  from  1815  to  1830.  This 
was  anciently  the  palace  of  the  Princes 
lladziwill,  but  is  now  occupied  by  the 
Council  of  Administration,  and  the 
Council  of  State  of  the  Kingdom  of 
Poland.  7.  Opposite  is  the  Palace 
of  the  Counts  Potocld,  formerly  Ix)- 
longing  to  the  Princes  Czartoryski. 
8.  Alongside  the  Hotel  de  VEurope,  old 
imlaco  of  the  Princes  Oginski.  9.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  street,  the  Tarnov- 
sId  Palace,  with  a  garden  and  a  fine 
view  of  the  Vistula.  10.  A  little  farther 
is  the  fine  Church  of  the  Comment  of  the 
Visitandines,  with  a  good  painting  over 
the  high  altar.  11.  Next  to  it,  tho 
Palace  of  Count  Potocld,  anciently  })e- 
longing    to   the    Tyszkiewicz    family, 


Poland. 


Boute  34. —  Warsaic, 


357 


funiishcfl  with  taste  and  much  luxury, 
and  containing  some  fine  pictures  and 
works  of  art.     12.  Close  to  this  again  is 
the  Palace  of  Count  Uruski,  anciently 
the  Mokranovski  Palace.    13.  Beside  it 
is  a  vast  courtyard  with  a  great  number 
of  buildings  called  tlio  Casimir  Bar- 
racks, because  tliey  were  constructed  by 
King  John  Casimir.     The   University, 
suppressed    in   1831,  but  restored    in 
18G1,    is   at   present  located  in  these 
Imildings,  together  with  its  small  li- 
brary ;    the  public    library,   once  the 
most  extensive  in  the  world,   having 
l)een  removed  to  St.  Petersburg  in  1794 
{vide    Imperial    Public    Library).     A 
.second  removal  of  books  to  St.  Peters- 
burg was  made  in  1831.     Here  are  also 
the    zoological,    mineralogical,  numis- 
matic,   and    other    collections   of   the 
university.     It  has  a  fine  garden,  with 
a  view  of  the  Vistula.     14.  Opix)site  is 
the   Palace  of   the   Counts  Krasinski, 
which  once  belonged  to  Radzieiovski, 
of  such  unhappy  celebrity  by  liis  par- 
ticipation   in    advising    Charles    Gus- 
tavus  X.,  King  of  Sweden,  to  make  war 
on  Poland.    It  contains  a  library,  pic- 
tures, and  works  of  art.     15.  Alongside 
stands  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Cross,  of 
the   .suppressed   convent  of  the  order 
of  Lazarus,  founded  by  the  consort  of 
King  John  III.  Sobieski.     It  is  very 
large  and  handsome  ;  the  high  altar  is 
particularly  fine.     In  a  lateral  chapel 
is  the  tomb  of  Prince  Joseph  Ponia- 
towski.     IG.  Monument  to  Copernicus, 
the  great  astronomer,  by  Thorwaldsen, 
erected  by  means  of  a  national  subscrip- 
tion.    17.  Behind  the  monument  stands 
the  Hou^e  of  the  Society  of  the  Friends 
of  Science,  suppressed  in  1831,  and  al- 
ready mentioned  in  connection  with  tho 
monument  to  Bishop  Albertrandi.     It 
is  now  occupied  by  a  Russian  school ; 
on  its  site  once  stood  a  Dominican  con- 
vent, which  was    for    some  time  the 
prison  of  Vassili  Shuiski,  elected  by 
the  Boyars  Tsar  of  Moscovy  ;  and  that 
of  his  brothers,  taken  prisoners  by  tho 
Poles,  who  occupied  Moscow  in  IGll, 
after  a  war  which  had  been  very  use- 
lessly  and  unjustly  undertaken.      18. 
Facing  this  building  are  two  large  and 
fine    houses,  which  ouce  belonged  to 


Count  Andrew  Zamoiski :  one  of  them 
had  been  formerly  the  palace  of  tho 
Branicki  family ;  the  other  had  belonged 
to  tho  Princes  Sapieha,  and  Prince 
Adam  Czartoryski,  the  venerable  repre- 
sentative of  the  Polish  emigration  of 
1831,  resided  in  it.  These  two  houses 
were  confiscated  in  1863,  after  an  at- 
tempt made  on  the  life  of  Count  Berg, 
Lieutenant  of  the  Emperor,  by  means 
of  Or.sini  shells,  thrown,  according  to 
one  account,  from  a  window  of  the 
latter  house,  and,  according  to  others, 
from  a  window  of  the  house  opposite, 
then  occupied  by  the  School  of  Medi- 
cine, and  now  by  the  Russian  School. 

At  this  point  the  traveller  will  have 
reached Isovi  Sviat  (New  World)  street, 
which  leads  to  a  large  square  (19), 
with  a  very  pretty  little  ch.,  dedicated 
to  St.  Alexander,  and  built  by  order  of 
the  Emperor  Alexander  I.  to  com- 
memorate for  ever  the  re-establishment 
of  a  kingdom  of  Poland  in  1815.  20. 
In  front  of  this  ch.  are  2  crosses, 
erected,  says  a  popular  legend,  to  the 
memory  of  two  brothers  who  killed 
each  other  simultaneously  in  a  very 
singular  combat, — both  having  been 
in  love  with  their  own  sister.  Their 
names  are  not  remarkable,  and  deserve 
no  mention ;  but  the  presence  of  these 
2  crosses,  and  the  legend  with  which 
they  are  connected,  opposite  the  ch. 
built  in  memory  of  the  re-annexation 
of  Poland  to  Russia,  is  a  mournful 
emblem  of  the  fratricidal  straggle  in 
which  for  two  centuries  the  two  kindred 
people  of  the  Slavonian  race  have  been 
engaged,  and  of  which  the  true  motive 
is  the  desire  of  each  to  possess  the 
provinces  inhabited  by  a  sister  na- 
tion—the Ruthenians.  21.  Between 
these  crosses  is  a  Statm  of  St.  John  of 
Nepomucli,  a  saint  much  venerated 
in  Bohemia  and  Poland,  who  died 
because  he  would  not  divulge  a  secret 
that  had  been  confided  to  him.  This 
statue  was  erected  to  commemorate 
the  first  paving  of  the  streets  of  Warsaw 
by  Grand  Marshal  Bielinski.  22.  In 
the  same  square  is  the  Deaf  Dumb, 
and  Blind  Asylum,  where  those  unfor- 
tunates   are    taught    with    care    and 


358 


Boiite  34. —  Warsaw. 


Sect.  III. 


success  tlie  arts  and  trades  compatible 
with  their  infii-mities. 

From  tlie  square,  the  Avenues,  or 
Cliamps  Elysees  of  Warsaw,  will  be 
entered,  bordered  by  fine  lime-trees  in 
front  of  elejijant  private  residences. 
Here  are  pul3lic  gardens,  in  wliich  the 
inhabitants  of  Warsaw  promenade,  and 
listen  to  music  while  partiiking  of 
refreslmients  at  the  cafe's.  Walking  on, 
the  traveller  will  emerge  in  a  large 
square  where  the  troops  are  exorcised. 
23.  Here  stands  the  Military  Hospital 
of  Uiazdoi\  furmerly  a  castle  of  the 
kings  of  Poland,  and  surrounded  by  an 
extensive  pirk.  24.  A  little  beyond 
are  the  Botanical  Gardens  and  the 
Observatory.  25.  From  this  garden 
the  visitor  will  pass  into  the  fine  park 
of  Lazienki,  an  elegant  country  resi- 
dence, built  by  King  Stanislaus  Au- 
gustus Poniatowski.  This  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Emperor  of  Russia  when 
he  comes  to  Warsaw.  The  ceilings 
are  painted  by  Bacciarelli.  The  walls 
are  hung  with  portraits  of  the  numerous 
and  remarkable  Beauties  of  Warsaw  in 
the  reign  of  Stanislaus.  In  the  park 
will  be  seen  many  villas  dependent  on 
the  Imperial  residence,  a  very  pretty 
little  Theatre  in  the  Conservatory,  an- 
other larger  one  al  fresco,  and  a 
statue  of  King  John  Sobieski  erected 
by  Stanislaus  Augustus  at  the  festival 
commemorative  of  the  100th  anniver- 
sary of  the  victory  gained  at  Vienna. 
Ix5oking  at  this  statue  in  1850,  after 
the  war  in  Hungary,  the  Emperor 
Nicholas  exclaimed,  "The  two  kings 
of  Poland  that  have  committed  the 
gravest  error  are  John  III.  and  myself, 
—for  we  both  saved  the  Austrian 
monarchy."  2G.  The  Lazienki  Park 
is  contiguous  to  the  fine  gardens  of  the 
Belvedere  Palace,  fonuerly  the  residence 
of  the  Grand  Duke  Constantine,  and 
where,  in  1830,  an  attempt  was  to 
have  been  made  to  deprive  him  of  life 
or  liberty.  It  is  now  the  residence  of 
the  Emperor's  Lieutenants.  In  one  of 
the  rooms  is  a  series  of  engravings 
representing  the  uniforms  of  the  Pohsh 
troops  prior  to  1830. 

From   hence   a   ])leasant  walk  of  2 
hrs.,  past  the   Belvedere  Barrier,  will 


bring  the  traveller  to  (27)  the  Castle  of 
Villanov,  now  the  property  of  Count 
Potocki.  It  once  belonged  to  King 
John  III.  Sobieski,  who  "built  it,  and 
lived  much  in  it.  It  was  here  he  died 
in  169G.  This  chateau,  of  elegant 
proportions,  and  in  the  style  of  an 
Italian  villa,  with  a  terrace  and  wings, 
ornamented  with  pictures  and  b!is- 
reliefs,  was  built  in  part  by  the  Turks 
whom  Sobieski  had  made  prisoners  in 
one  of  his  gk)rious  campaigns,  and 
finished  on  the  original  plan  by  Stanis- 
laus Augustus.  At  the  death  of 
Sobieski  the  domain  of  Villanov  was 
sold  by  his  son  to  the  Countess  Sie- 
niafska,  and  afterwards  became  suc- 
cessively the  property  of  Stanislas,  of 
the  family  of  the  Lubomirskis,  and  of 
the  Count  Potocki.  It  was  to  this 
retreat  that  Sobieski  brought  back  tho 
trophies  of  his  mighty  deeds  in  arms ; 
it  was  here  that  he  endeavoured  to 
forget  the  rival  factions  of  his  nobles 
and  the  stormy  debates  of  the  diets; 
and,  finally,  it  was  to  this  palace,  and 
accompanied  by  thousands  of  his  coun- 
trymen, who  shoute<l  their  passionate 
welcome,  that  he  came  after  he  had 
<lriven  the  Moslem  from  the  walls  of 
Vienna.  The  walls  of  the  first  room 
shown  to  strangers  in  the  palace  of 
Villanov  are  hung  with  full-length 
portraits  of  the  Sapieha  and  Jabloiiov- 
ski  families,  and  of  the  Polish  kings 
and  queens.  In  another  apartment  is 
a  collection  of  objects  of  art,  armour, 
and  other  curiosities.  Here  is  ju-e- 
served  the  magnificent  suit  of  armour 
presented  by  the  Pope  to  Sobieski 
after  the  Turks  were  driven  from 
Vienna.  It  is  covered  with  arabes<iues 
and  chasings,  and  inlaid  with  ivory 
and  mother-of-pearl.  The  room  of  the 
l)eautiful  Marie  d'Arquien,  Sobieski's 
queen,  is  also  shown,  and  near  it  is  a 
small  one  covered  with  pictures,  re- 
presenting the  peccadilloes  of  Jupiter 
from  Danae  down  to  Le<la.  The  queen 
herself  figures  on  the  ceiling  amidst  a 
crowd  of  lovers ;  and  there  is  a  portrait 
and  bust  of  her  in  an  adjoining  apart- 
ment. In  the  collection  of  i)ietures 
there  are  some  works  of  Lucas  of 
Leyden  and  Lucas  of  Cranacli,  worthy 


Polaud. 


Bouie  34. — Warsaw, 


359 


of  notii'c  ;  also  an  admimble  Rubens — 
the  Death  of  Seneca.  In  the  park  of 
Villanov  is  the  magnificent  tent  of 
Kara  Mustapha,  one  of  the  spoils  of 
war  brought  from  Vienna  by  Sobieski. 

Visitors  will  obtain  refreshments  at 
an  inn  immediatly  adjoining. 

Not  far  from  Villanov  are  two 
charming  villas  belonging  to  Count 
Potocki;  (28)  Morysin,  with  a  tine 
park  and  deer,  and  (29j  Natolin,  where 
pheasants  are  preserved.  30.  Near 
these  is  TJrsinov,  formerly  belonging  to 
Julius  Ur-jin  Niemcevicz,  the  Polish 
poet  and  historian,  and  friend  of  Ko- 
bciuszko  and  Washington.  On  the 
way  back  to  town  many  villas  with 
pretty  and  extensive  gardens  will  be 
passed,  some  jirivate,  others  public. 
The  most  remarkable  are— (31)  Kroli- 
1mrnia,ii  picture  gallery ;  (32)  Viezhbno ; 
(33)  Mokotov,  very  picturesque.  Be- 
yond is  a  large  fit.ld  where  races  are 
held  annually  between  the  loth  and 
20th  June. 

Having  readied  town  by  the  Mohotov 
Barrier,  along  the  Avenue,  and  past 
the  ch.  of  St.  Alexander,  the  traveller 
may,  by  going  into  Kzionzhentsa-street, 
pass  in  front  of  (34)  St.  Txizarus  Hos- 
pital for  venereal  diseases,  which  is 
very  well  kept,  and  go  into  tho  indus- 
trial part  of  the  city,  called  Solec  (35). 
There  the  visitor  will  pass  by  the 
iron-works  of  the  Bank  of  Poland, 
established  by  AV.  Perks,  an  English- 
man ;  the  Carpet  Manufactory  of  the 
brothers  Baumann  ;  the  Engine  Factory 
of  Count  Andrew  Zamoiski  and  Co. ; 
tho  Chemical  Works  of  Hirchmann  and 
Kiievski ;  the  Steam  Mill  and  Baking- 
house  of  the  Bank  of  Poland ;  and  several 
Breweries  and  other  establishments  of 
minor  importance.  Re-entering  War- 
saw by  Tameka-street,  a  small  castle 
will  be  passed  with  a  palace  called 
Ordynatskie'  (36),  where  the  Conserva- 
tory of  ^lusic  is  now  located.  This 
small  palace  belonged  to  the  Princes 
Ostrogski,  descendants  of  the  Rurik 
sovereigns  of  Russia,  who  held  large 
domains  in  Volhynia.  It  afterwards 
passed  to  the  Zamoiski,  and  later  to  the 
Khodkiewitch  (Chodkiewicz)  families; 
three  races  from  which  the  most  dis- 


tinguished soldiers  of  Poland  have" 
sprung.  The  Cracow  Faubourg  is 
reached  here  close  to  the  statue  of 
Copernicus. 

ith  Walk. — A  fourth  excursion  may 
be  made,  starting  as  before  from  the 
Castle  Square,  and  proceeding  along 
the  fine  road  that  leads  to  the  Vistula. 
The  fine  permanent  iron  bridge  over  the 
river  is  1890  ft.  long,  and  was  built  on 
6  trusses  on  the  American  principle, 
by  Kerbedz,  the  Poliish  General  of 
Engineers,  who  constructed  the  Ni- 
cholas Brid^re   over  the  Neva.     The 


bridge 


leads    to    the 


dirty  Prague 
Suburb,  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
Vistula,  where  a  horse  and  cattle 
market  is  held.  This  suburb  was 
anciently  fortified.  It  was  taken 
by  assault  in  1794  by  the  Russians 
under  Suwarolf,  when  it  was  fired,  and 
its  inhabitants,  16,000  in  number,  in- 
discriminately put  to  the  sword.  The  Ch. 
of  the  Bernardines,  now  the  parish  ch., 
in  which  some  of  the  inhabitants 
vainly  sought  refuge,  may  be  visited. 
There  is  a  fine  Jewish  Synagogue  in 
this  part  of  the  town  ;  and  the  temiinus 
of  the  St.  Petersburg  Railway  is  also 
tliere.  A  Tete-de-pont  covers  a  floating- 
bridge,  which  is  exchisively  appro- 
priated to  the  citadel  of  Warsaw. 

From  the  Prague  Suburb  a  further  ex- 
cursion may  be  made  to  the  countiy 
residences  on  an  island  of  the  Vistula, 
called  Saska  Kempa,  also  a  favourite 
walk  of  the  inhabitants  of  Warsaw. 
Not  f;ir  from  thence  is  Groklwv  village, 
where  a  battle  was  fought  in  1831. 
Two  monuments  have  been  erected 
there ;  one  by  order  of  the  Emperor 
Nicholas  to  commemorate  the  battle  ; 
the  other  in  the  reign  of  Alexander  I., 
on  the  occasion  of  the  construction  of 
the  first  royal  road  in  Poland.  There 
are  many  distilleries  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, as  well  as  tan-yards  and  other 
establishments  where  the  raw  products 
of  the  country  are  prepared. 


360 


Boute  35. — St.  Petersburg  to  Warsaw. 


Sect.  III. 


ROUTE  35. 

KT.  rETERSBUllG  TO  WARSAW,  VIA  WILNA, 
BY  RAIL. 

For  rcjuto  from  St.  Petersburg  to 
Wiina,  vide  Etc.  1,  Sect.  I.,  Eussia.) 

Passengers  change  carriages  at  Wilna. 

Landvorovo  Stut.,  245  m.  fium  War- 
saw. 

Grodno  Stat.,  160  m.  from  Warsaw, 
chief  town  of  the  province  of  the  same 
name.    Pop.  26,000. 

The  town  is  situated  on  tlie  right 
eloping  bank  of  the  Niemen,  and  (m 
the  banks  of  the  Gorodnichanka  rivu- 
let. Some  historians  identify  the  prin- 
cipality of  Grodno,  mentioned  in  the 
chronicles  of  1128,  with  the  present 
Grodno,  while  others  recognise  in  it 
the  small  town  of  Gorodno  in  the  dis- 
trict of  Pinsk.  In  every  case  Grodno 
(Gorodno,  Goroden)  was  founded  by 
Slavonians,  and  existed  already  in  the 
12th  centy.,  as  plain  mention  of  it  is 
made  in  chronicles  of  the  year  1183. 
The  churches  of  Grodno  at  this  period 
were  built  of  stone,  so  that  the  place 
must  have  been  of  considerable  import- 
ance. In  1224  Grodno  was  burned 
down  by  the  Teutonic  knights,  and  in 
1241,  when  ruled  by  Prince  Uri  Gle- 
bovitch,  it  was  almost  completely 
destroyed  by  the  Tartar  chief  Kaidan, 
who  burned  down  its  wooden  castle 
which  stood  on  a  mound  at  the  point 
where  the  Gorodnichanka  falls  into  the 
Niemen.  In  the  same  year  tlie  devas- 
ttited  town  was  occupied  by  the 
Lithuanians,  led  from  the  nortli  by 
Erdzivilla,  nephew  of  the  Grand  Duke 
Mindovgus.  In  1259  Daniel  and 
Robert,  Dukes  of  Galicia,  assisted 
by  Duke  Basil  of  Volhynia,  and  in 
1277  the  Dukes  Mstislaf,  Vladimir, 
and  Yury  (George),  aided  by  the  Tar- 


tars, assaulted  the  town,  but  did  not 
succeed  in  establishing  themselves  per- 
manently in  it.     It  was  attacked  by 
the  Teutonic  knights  in  1284,  1296, 
1306,  1311,  1328,  1361,  and  1391,  and 
its  feud  with  the  knights  only  termi- 
nated  in    1398,   when    Vitold    ceded 
Samogitia  to  the  principality.     The 
most  disastrous  period  in  the  history 
of  Grodno  was  the  year  1284,  wlien 
the  Teutonic  knigiits   under   Conrad 
Tirberg  razed  the  town  to  the  ground, 
and  in  1391,  when  Malborg,  the  grand 
master  of  the  order,  destroyed  the  upper 
and  lower  castles,  burned  the  town, 
and    devastated    the   neighboiuhood. 
From  1413  Grodno  became  a  district 
town  of  the  voevodship  of  Trok,  formed 
out  of  the  principalities  of  Trok  and 
Grodno.     Tiio  most  iloiu-ishiug  ejxx'h 
in  the  history  of  Grodno  was  the  reign 
of  Stephen  liatory,  who  made  it  his 
residence  and  seat  of  administration. 
In  his  reign  a  stone  castle  was  erected 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Gorodnichanka; 
its  walls  arc  still  visible.    In  1655  the 
Eussians  took  possession  of  the  town, 
which  had  been  half  destroyed  by  a 
conflagration,  and  after  this  the  Swedes 
occupied  it  foiu*  ycjirs.     In  1678  the 
first  ordinary   general    diets    of   the 
kingdom     of    Poland     assembled    at 
Grodno.     The  diet  of  1793  held  hero 
confirmed  the  partition  of  Poland,  and 
that  of  1795  witnessed  the  abdication 
of  Stanislaus  Augustus  Poniatowski. 
In    the    middle    of   the   18th   centy. 
Grodno  was  one  of  the  most  flourishing 
towns  of  Lithuania  and  Poland.     For 
this    prosperity    it  was    indebted    to 
Tiesenhausen,   its    mayor,   who   esta- 
blished many  factories,  &c.,and  founded 
several  schools  and  a  public  lilirary, 
museum,   &c.     In  1793  Grodno   was 
annexed  to  Eussia,  and  in  1801  made 
a  provincial  town.     The  town  contains 
5   chiu-ches   and  2   monasteries   con- 
verted to  the  use  of  the  Eusso-Greek 
clergy,  and  5  Eom.  Cath.  chs.,  of  which 
the  oldest,  belonging  to  the  order  of 
Bernurdine   monks,   was  founded    in 
1494.     Tlierc  are  also  2  Eom.  Cath. 
monasteries.       The    most    important 
buildings  are  the  governor's  house,  tlic 
miUtary  barracks  or  the  old  castle,  the 


Poland. 


Boute  36. — Vienna  to  Warsaio. 


361 


military  hospital,  erected  on  the  site  of 
the  new  castle  built  by  Augustus  II. 
for  the  meetings  of  the  Diet.  The 
trade  is  mostly  in  grain,  timber,  and 
hemp,  which  are  floated  down  the 
Niemen  for  foreign  exjwrtation.  A 
fine  bridge  over  the  Niemen.  3  stats, 
beyond  is 

Bialystok  Stat.,  108  m.  16,000  Inhab. 
District  town  in  province  of  Grodno, 
anciently  the  property  of  Hetman 
Branicki,  brother-in-law  of  Stanislaus 
Augustus.  It  was  the  chief  town  of 
the  district  of  Bialystok,  transferred  to 
Prussia  at  the  partition  of  1796,  and 
ceded  by  Napoleon  I.  to  Eussia  in  1807 
by  the  Treaty  of  Tilsit.  Eleven  years 
of  good  government  between  those 
dates  produced  an  amount  of  material 
pros})erity,  of  which  the  measures  of 
General  Mouravieff  between  1863  and 
1865  have  not  been  aljle  to  destroy  all 
traces.  The  kingdom  of  Poland  is 
entered  one  stat.  beyond,  at 

Lapy,  where  there  is  a  bridge  over 
the  navigable  river  Narev,  whicli  forms 
the  boundary  of  tlic  province  of  Grodno, 
and  that  of  Augustovo  in  the  kingdom 
of  Poland.     2  small  stats,  beyond  is 

INIalkin,  52  m.  A  bridge  over  the 
Bug  river. 

After  passing  2  insignificant  stats, 
the  train  reaches 

Warsaw,  described  in  Rte.  34. 


ROUTE  36. 

VIENNA  TO  WARSAW,   BY  RAIL. 

For  route  to  Polish  frontier  from 
Vienna,  vide  Handbook  for  Southern 
Germany. 

The  kingdom  of  Poland  will  be 
entered,  if   coming   from  Austria,   at 


Granitsa,  or,  if  travelling  from  Prussia, 
at  Sosnovitse,  at  both  of  which  places 
luggage  and  passports  undergo  ex- 
amination. The  2  branch-lines  meet 
at  Zombkowitse,  183  m.  from  Warsaw. 
There  are  coal,  iron,  and  zinc  mines  in 
the  neighbourhood ;  also  iron  and  zinc 
works.    3  stats,  beyond  is 

Tszenstokhova  Stat.,  143  m.,  on  the 
1.  bankoftheWarta.  Pop.  9000.  This 
town  is  celebrated  for  its  convent, 
situated  on  a  small  elevation  called 
Jasna  Gura  (Clara-mons),  which  at- 
tracts numerous  pilgrims  from  all  parts 
of  Poland,  and  even  from  Silesia, 
which  has  been  separated  from  Poland 
for  more  than  6  centuries.  It  contains 
a  fine  ch.,  with  a  chapel  dedicated  to 
the  Holy  Virgin,  much  venerated  by 
the  Poles  since  the  wars  with  Charles 
Gustavus  of  Sweden,  under  the  name 
of  Regina  Regni  Folonicii.  Tlie  picture 
of  the  Virgin  is  reputed  to  liave  been 
painted  by  St.  Luke.  The  convent  is 
surrounded  by  a  pretty  little  fortress  in 
the  shai)e  of  a  quincunx.  Frequently 
besieged  by  tlie  enemies  of  the  country, 
it  was  gloriously  defended  against  the 
Swedes  in  1655  by  its  Prior  Kovdecki, 
to  whom  a  suitable  monument  was 
erected  in  1861 ;  and  once  more  in 
1771  against  the  Eussian  troops,  by 
Casimir  Pulavski,  one  of  the  chiefs 
of  the  Confederation  of  Bar,  afterwards 
killed  near  Savamiah  during  the  War 
of  Independence.    3  stats,  beyond  is 

Petrikau  (Piotrkov),  91  m.,  Pop. 
11,000,  on  the  small  river  Shrava. 
The  ancient  tribunals  of  Poland  were 
held  here.  A  line  to  Lublin  will  be 
constructed  from  this  point.  Passing 
the  stat.  of  Boby,  of  which  nothing 
interesting  can  be  said,  the  train 
reaches 

Eokiciny  Stat.,  from  whicli  a  line  runs 
to  Lodz.     2  stats,  beyond  is 

Skiernievitse,  junction  with  Warsaw- 
Bromberg  Eailway,  described  in  Ete. 
34,  which  see  for  the  remainder  of 
the  journey  to  Warsaw. 


362         Boute  37,  38,  3d,--Warsaio  to  Prussian  Frontier.      Sect.  III. 


KOUTE  37. 

WARSAW   TO   LODZ. 

])y  rail  to  Ilokiciny  Stat:  on  Warsaw 
and  Vienna  line,  thence  by  branch 
line  to 

Lodz,  Pop.  84,000,  in  the  centre  of  a 
large  cotton-niaiinfactnring  district. 


KOUTK  38. 

WAUSAW  TO  SANDOMIR,  LP  THE  VISTULA, 
BY   STEAMER. 

Count  Andrew  Zumoiski  and  Co. 
have  started  small  passenger  steamers, 
which  navigate  the  Vistula  in  summer 
both  above  and  below  Warsjiw.  Tra- 
vellers may  leave  the  kingdom  by  this 
route,  visiting  many  places  of  interest 
on  the  way,  of  which  we  may  mention 
the  following  : — 

Gura  Calvaria.  A  place  of  pilgrim- 
age. 

Czersk  (CherskV  Ruins  of  a  castle 
of  the  Dukes  of  IVIasovia. 

INInisliev,  at  the  moutli  of  the  Pilitsa 
river,  which  is  likewise  navigable. 

Matsieiovitse,  a  castle  belonging  to 
Count  Zamoiski.  The  battle-lield  on 
which  Kosciusko  was  wounded  and 
taken  prisoner  by  the  llussians. 

Ivangorod,  a  fortress  near  the  small 
town    of   Demblin,    the    property    of 


Prince  Paskicvitch,  at  the  mouth  of 
the  small  navigable  river  Viepsli. 

Pulavy,  small  trading  town,  with  a 
magnificent  castle  and  an  estates  con- 
fiscated in  1831,  which  belonged  to 
Prince  Czartoryski,  and  is  now  called 
Nova  Alexandria.  There  is  a  School 
of  Agriculture  here. 

lanovitse.  Fine  niin  of  a  castle  of 
the  Firlei  family. 

Kazimiezh,  a  small  tmding  town, 
founded  by  Casimir  the  Great.  The 
Jews  enjoyed  great  privileges  in  it. 
The  houses  inhabited  by  Esther,  a 
Jewess,  who  was  the  kings  mistress,  is 
still  shown. 

Zavikhost,  small  town  with  a  Custom- 
house. 

Sandomir.  Pop.  4000.  Very  prettily 
situated,  with  an  ancient  cathethal 
and  a  castle.  It  was  several  times 
devastated  by  invasions  of  the  Tartars, 
Cossjicks,  Swedes,  Austrians,  and  Rus- 
sians. Tlie  navigable  San  river  flows 
into  the  Vistula  near  the  town. 


UOUTE  39. 

WARSAW   TO   PRUSSIAN    FRONTIER,    DOWN 
THE   VISTULA,   BY   STEAMJilR. 

Travellers  may  return  to  Prussia  by 
this  route. 

Tlie  steamer  will  pass  under  the 
walls  of  tlie  Citadel  of  Warsaw,  close 
to  tlie  convent  of  Bielany  and  the 
pretty  castle  of  Jablona,  beloiin:ing  t(» 
Count  Potocki.  The  places  of  interest 
beyond  are — 

Novogeorgiovsk,  or  Modlin — its  name 
since  1831.  A  fortress  of  considenible 
strength,  requiring  12,000  men  for  its 
defence,  and  which,  having  been  several 
times  besieged,  has  always  held  out 


Poland. 


Boute  40. — Warsaw  to  Cracow, 


363 


until  the  end  of  each  campaign  without 
being  taken.  It  lies  about  10  m. 
belo^v  Warsaw,  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Narev  and  Bug  with  the  Vistula. 
Fine  store-house  for  grain. 

Zakrotshim,  a  small  town,  in  which 
the  Diet  of  Poland  met  in  1831  after 
the  fall  of  Warsaw. 

Chervinsk  (Czervinsk).  Ruins  of  a 
large  castle  of  the  Dukes  of  Masovia. 

Vyshogrod  (Wyszogrod),  a  town  with 
a  small  trade,  at  the  month  of  the 
Bzura. 

Dobzhykov.    Large  granaries. 

Plotsk  fPlock).  13,000  Inhab.  Pro- 
vincial town,  well  built,  and  prettily 
situated.  In  the  cathedral  will  be 
seen  the  tombs  of  Vladislas,  Hermann, 
and  Boleslas  III.,  Kings  of  Poland, 
and  of  Bishop  Lubienski,  one  of  the 
most  distinguished  of  modem  Latin 
scholars. 

Duninovo.  A  sugar  manufactoiy, 
with  a  brewery,  close  by. 

Soczevka.  Paix.T-mill,  belonging  to 
Mr.  Epstein,  banker  at  Warsaw. 

Dobrzyn,     RuiTis  of  a  castle. 

Vlotslavek,  described  in  Rte.  34. 

Tsiekliotsinek  (Ciechocinek).  Salt- 
springs  and  salt-works.  Establishment 
for  saline  baths. 

Bobrovniki,  Ruins  of  a  castle  on  an 
island  of  the  Vistula. 

Nieshava.  Polish  Custom  -  house 
for  the  Vistula  and  the  Prussian 
frontier. 

Beyond,  in  Prussia,  the  Vistula  flows 
past  the  fortress  of  Thorn  ;  the  castle  of 
KuL3i,  given  in  the  13th  centy.,  by 
Conrad  Duke  of  Masovia,  to  the  Teu- 
tonic Knights,  on  condition  that  they 
should  conquer  the  pagan  Prussian 
people — they  eftected  the  conquest,  but 
retained  it ;  Marienwerder,  a  fine 
castle  of  tlic  Grand  Masters  of  the 
Teutonic  Order ;  Dirschau,  where  there 
is  a  magnificent  railway  bridge ;  and 
lastly,  Dantzig,  where  the  Vistula  falls 
into  the  Baltic,  after  flowing  665  m. 
from  its  source  in  the  Carpathians. 

See  Handbook  of  North  Germany. 


Hmsia — 1868. 


ROUTE  40. 

WARSAW  TO  CRACOW,  VIA  RADOM  AND 
KIELTSE,  BY  ROAD. 

Although  it  is  not  probable  that 
many  travellers  will  leave  the  lines  of 
rly.  above  described,  yet  we  feel  bound 
to  sketch  out  some  itineraries  along 
the  "  royal  roads  "  of  the  kingdom,  for 
the  benefit  of  the  more  enterprising 
tourist. 

The  distance  between  Warsaw  and 
Cracow,  by  the  "  royal  road,"  is  282^  v. 
or  190  m.  The  cost  of  posting  the 
whole  way,  with  two  horses,  is  28  r. 
92 J  c.  A  mail-coach  as  far  as 
Kieltse.  The  following  places  will  be 
passed : — 

Rashin.    Battle-field  in  1809. 

Groiets,  a  town  with  a  small  trade. 

Bialobzhegi.    Bridge  over  the  Pilitsa. 

Radom,  10,000  Inhab.  ;  chief  town 
of  province  ;  Go  m.  from  Warsaw. 
A  road  branches  ofi"  hence  to  Pulavy 
and  Lublin,  and  another,  via  Skaryshev 
and  Opatov  (where  there  is  a  fine  ch., 
with  a  tomb  of  the  Shidloviecki  family), 
to  Sandomir,  on  the  Vistula. 

Shidlovits,  4000  Inhab,,  with  a  ch., 
and  the  ruins  of  a  castle  of  the  Shid- 
loviecki family. 

Suhedniov.  Seat  of  the  administra- 
tion of  the  Government  iron-mines. 
A  chaussee  branches  off  to  Zavikhost 
on  the  Vistula,  passing  many  iion- 
mines. 

Kieltse,  5000  Inhab.,  112  m.  from 
Warsaw;  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
mountains  of  the  Holy  Cross.  A  ca- 
thedral adorns  the  town,  and  an  epis- 
copal palace,  confiscated  by  the  Rus- 
sian government.  A  road  leads  hence 
to  Busk.    Sulphur-baths.    Royal  road 


3G4    Bies.  41,  42,  43. — Warsaw  to  St.  Petcrsh.  and  Moscow,  Sect.  III. 


Poland. 


Boute  44. — Warsaw  to  Kief, 


3G5 


continues  to  Cracow,  passing  by  Bialo- 
goii,  where  there  are  some  iron- works ; 
Khenciny,  celebrated  lor  its  marble- 
quarries  ;  Ksionzh,  a  fine  castle  of  the 
Marquis  Wielopolski  ;  and  Mielchov, 
where  one  of  the  bloodiest  battles  of 
the  insurrection  of  1863  was  fought. 

Cracow  is  about  8  m.  beyond  the 
frontier  of  the  kingdom  of  Poland. 


KOUTE  41. 

WARSAW  TO  NOVOGEORGIEVSK,  BY  EOAP. 

Should  the  steamer  down  the  Vistula 
be  unavailable,  travellers  may  take  post 
horses  to  the  fortress  of  Novogeorgievsk, 
or  Modlin,  3f  v.  distant,  at  an  expense 
of  37;|  copecks.  It  is  described  in 
Kte.  39.  The  small  town  opposite  the 
fortress  is  called  Nove-Miasto. 


ROUTE  42. 

WARSAW  TO  ST.  PETERSBrRG,  VIA  Pt'L- 
TUSK,  OSTKOLENKA,  AND  KOWNO,  BY 
ROAD. 

Distance  699  v.  ''466  m.)  to  Kowno, 
and  1075  v.  (717  m.)  to  St.  Petersburg. 
Posting,  2^  cop.  per  horse  to  Kowno, 
and  5  cop.  beyond. 

After  passing  Jablonna  the  traveller 
will  be  driven  through  Zegzhe,  a  fine 


estate  of  the  Counts  Krasinski.  Tlierc 
is  a  bridge  here  over  the  Narev. 

Pultusk,  5000  Inhab.,  celebrated  for 
the  battle  fought  by  Charles  XII.  with 
the  Saxons  in  1703,  and  that  of  the 
French  with  the  Russians  in  1806. 

Ostrolenka,  3000  Inhab.  One  of  tho 
fiercest  battles  of  the  insurrection  of 
1831  was  fought  here. 

Augustov,  8000  Inhab.  The  Au- 
gustov  Canal,  here  crossed,  connects 
the  Vistula  with  the  Niemen. 

Suwalki,  13,000  Inhab.  Chief  town 
of  province  of  Augustovo.  The  next 
large  town  is 

Kowno,  described  in  Rte.  l.,Sect.  I., 
Russia.  Here  the  train  may  be  taken 
to  St.  Petersburg  or  Berlin. 


ROUTE  43. 

W^ARSAW   TO  MOSCOW,    VIA    liREST-LITEV- 
SKI  (TERESPOL)  and  BOBRUISK. 

The  distance  between  AVarsaw  and 
Moscow  is  about  1188  v.,  of  which 
192  V.  (to  Terespol)  may  be  made  by 
rail,  the  principal  stats,  on  which  are — 

SiEDLTSE,  84  V.  from  Warsaw,  a 
town  of  8000  Inhab. 

MiENDziZHETS,  136  V.  from  Warsaw. 
Pop.  8000.  A  fine  estate  belonging  to 
Count  Potocki,  and  formerly  to  the 
Prince  Czartoryski. 

BiALA,"  159  V.  from  Warsaw.  Pop. 
4000.  An  old  estate  of  the  Princes 
Radziwill.     A  fine  castle  in  ruins. 

Terespol,  192  v.  from  Warsaw. 
From  hence  the  railway  will  be  car- 
ried over  the  Bug  to 

Brest-  (or  Bzhests-)  Litevski,  Pop. 
20,000,  on  rt.  bank  of  Bug,  at  junc- 
tion with  Mukhovetse. 

The  town  of  Berestof  is  mentioned 


\ 


in  1020,  wlion  it  was  taken  by  Boles- 
laus  the  Brave,  King  of  Poland.  In 
1189  King  Casimir  the  Just  built  a 
castle  here.  After  that  it  frequently 
changed  masters,  the  princes  of  Ga- 
licia,  Volhynia,  Lithuania,  and  the 
kings  of  Poland,  holding  it  in  turn. 
It  was  devastated  by  the  Tartars  in 
1241,  and  rebuilt  in  1275  by  Vladimir 
Prince  of  Volhynia,  whose  stone  castle 
was  demolished  in  1831,  when  Brest- 
Litefski  was  made  a  Russian  fortress. 
In  1319  Guedemin,  Grand  Duke  of 
Lithuania,  took  the  town,  and  later  it 
came  into  the  possession  of  Boleslaus 
of  Masovia,  at  whose  death  in  1340  it 
was  claimed  by  King  Casimir  of 
Poland,  and  by  him  given  to  the  son 
of  Gue'demin.  From  that  time  it  be- 
came part  of  Lithuania  under  the 
name  of  Brzcsc.  In  1379  the  Teu- 
tonic Knights  destroyed  its  suburbs, 
in  1436  a  peace  was  concluded  here 
between  Poland  and  the  German 
order.  Tlie  Khan  of  the  Crimea, 
Mengli  Ghirei,  ravaged  and  burned 
tlie  town  in  the  latter  part  of  the  15tli 
centy.  Diets  were  frequently  held 
here  in  the  reign  of  Sigismund  II.  In 
1599,  after  the  union  of  Lithuania 
with  Poland,  Brest  became  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Princes  Radziwill,  who 
were  made  governors  or  "  elders  "  of 
the  town.  The  Uniat  faith  was 
adopted  here  in  1594  at  a  council  of 
bishops  from  Western  Russia,  and  in 
1596  another  "  orthodox  council,"  held 
at  Brest,  cursed  those  who  had  seceded 
from  that  faith.  In  1706  the  Swedes 
pillaged  the  town,  which  was  incor- 
porated with  Russia  at  the  second 
partition  of  Poland.  About  half  the 
inhabitants  are  Jews.  In  the  16th 
centy.  their  synagogue  was  considered 
the  first  in  Europe.  A  consider- 
able trade  is  carried  on  in  corn,  lin- 
seed, hides,  timber,  &c.,  much  of 
which  is  floated  down  to  Dantzig.  By 
means  of  the  "  Royal  Canal "  the  Bug 
and  the  Mukhovets  rivers  afford 
fluviatile  communication  with  Prussia 
and  Austria.  The  fortress,  about  a 
mile  from  the  town,  is  of  the  first 
class. 
Until  tho  railway  is  pushed  ou  heuce 


to  Smolensk,  the  traveller  will  have  to 
post  from  Brest  to  Roslavl  on  Witebsk- 
Orel  line,  passing  through 

Kobryn,  a  small  town  on  the  canal 
which  unites  the  Vistula  with  the 
Dnieper. 

Slutsk.  Pop.  9000.  A  small  town 
anciently  celebrated  for  the  Calvinist 
schools,  patronized  by  a  branch  of 
the  Radziwill  family  professing  that 
confession ;  and  for  its  manufactories 
of  the  girdles  worn  with  the  old  Polish 
dress. 

Bobruisk.  Pop.  24,000.  A  fortified 
town  on  the  Beresina.  The  fortress  is 
one  of  the  strongest  in  Europe. 

Rogatshev.  Pop.  3000.  A  small 
town  on  the  Dnieper. 

Rostavl.   Stat,  on  Witcbsk-Orel  line. 


ROUTE  44. 

WARSAW  TO  KIEF,  VIA  BREST,  BY  ROAD. 

To  Brest-Litevski  as  in  preceding 
route.  Distance  to  Kief  764  v.  (510  m.)» 
Posting  for  2  horses  47  r.  00  c. 

Kovel,  a  small  town. 

Roviio.  Castle  and  estates  of  Prince 
Lulxjmiiski. 

Kozhets,  a  small  town.  After  the 
extinction  of  the  princely  family  of 
Korecki,  a  branch  of  the  reigning 
family  of  Lithuania,  this  property 
passed  to  the  Princes  Czartoiyskii 
another  branch  of  the  same  family. 
Ruins  of  a  castle. 

Novgorod  Volyuski,  small  town  on 
the  Slutsh  river. 

JrroMiR,  638  v.  from  Warsaw,  chief 
town  in  province  of  Volhynia.  Pop, 
38,000.  Hotel :  Minelle ;  accommo- 
dation good. 

The  town  is  situated  at  the  junction 
of  the  Kamenki  with  the  Teterev. 
According  to  tradition  it  was  founded 
by  Jitomir,  one  of  the  favourites  of 
Askold  and  Dyr.  In  1240  and  1287 
the  town  sufiered  at  the  hands  of  the 
Tartars,  and  in  1320  was  taken  pos- 
session of  by  Guedemin,  Prince   or 

s  2 


3GG 


Moute  45. —  Warsaw  to  Lemherg. 


Sect.  III. 


Giand  Duke  of  Lithuania.  On  lii.s 
death  Jitomir  fell  to  the  share  of  his 
son  Olgerd.  In  1877  the  latter  was 
succeeded  by  his  sou  Vladimir,  from 
whom  the  town  w^as  seized  by  Yitovt, 
Prince  of  Jmudi,  nephew  of  Olgerd. 
Vitovt  made  it  over  to  his  brother 
Svidrigailo,  on  whose  death  the  former 
again  resumed  possession  of  it,  and 
appointed  prince  Jolm  Olskanski  go- 
vernor. In  1390  Jitomir  was  destroyed 
by  the  Tartar  Khan  Edigei,  who  de- 
feated Yitovt  on  the  river  Vorskla. 
In  1444  Jitomir  was  one  of  the  15 
prineii)al  towns  of  Lithuania.  In  154 a 
it  was  destroyed  by  tire.  In  lOOG  it 
was  devastated  by  the  Tartars.  In 
1G22  its  castle  was  strongly  fortified. 
Bogdan  Klimelnitsky  ravaged  the 
town  in  1648.  In  1086  it  was  made 
the  principal  town  of  the  Voevodship 
of  Kief.  A  monastery  and  college  of 
the  order  of  the  Jesuits  was  founded 
here  in  172G.  In  1778  Jitomir  was 
annexed  to  Russia,  Ten  of  its  churches 
are  devoted  to  the  use  of  the  Russo- 
Greek  clergy.  The  cathedral  was 
built  in  1776,  and  the  eh.  of  the 
Assumption  of  the  Virgin,  which 
stands  on  a  rock,  in  1700.  There  are 
2  Roman  Catholic  places  of  worship  in 
the  town.  Of  these  the  cathedral  was 
founded  by  Samuel  Bishop  of  Kief  and 
Chernigott".  The  Catholic  monastery 
of  the  order  of  Bernardine  monks  was 
established  in  1761  by  Caetan  llinsky. 
There  is  also  a  Jewish  synagogue 
here.  The  trade  of  the  place  is  insig- 
nificant, and  is  carried  on  mostly  by 
Jews.  There  are  3  market-days  dur- 
ing the  week,  and  2  fairs  arc  held 
annually — the  first  on  the  8th  (20th) 
of  July,  and  the  second  on  the  14th 
(26th)  August. 

Kief;    for  a   description    of  which 
vide  Rte.  12,  Sect.  I.,  Russia. 


ROUTE  45. 

WARSAW  TO  LEMBERG,  VIA    Ll'BLIN,  BY 
ROAD. 

The  mail-coach  goes  no  farther  than 
Zamosts,  but  there  is  a  good  road 
through  Tomashov,  on  the  frontier  of 
the  kingdom,  to  licmberg.  We  need 
only  point  out — 

Ryki,  a  small  town,  with  a  bridge 
over  the  Viepsh.  In  the  cli.  is  the 
tomb  of  the  father  of  King  Stanislas 
Augustus  Poniatowski.  A  road  branches 
oil"  to  the  fortress  of  Ivangorod.  Pisci- 
culture carefully  pursued  here. 

Kurov,  a  small  pretty  town.  A  road 
hence  to  Pulavy,  or  Nova  Alexandria. 

liublin,  I'M  V.  from  Warsaw,  19,000 
Inliab. ;  chief  town  of  province,  of  con- 
siderable beauty  and  antiquity.  It  has 
a  good  trade.  Lublin  was  the  seat  of 
the  old  Polish  Tribunals,  and  the  place 
of  meeting  of  several  Diets,  the  most 
celebrated  of  which  is  that  of  1569, 
which  sanctioned  the  union  of  Lithu- 
ania with  Poland  (vide  Rte.  1,  Sect.  L, 
Russia).  It  contains  a  cathedral,  and 
the  Palace  of  the  Tribunals. 

Piaski,  22^  v.  beyond  Lublin.  The 
highway  to  Podolia  and  Odessa  passes 
through  this  town. 

Krasnystaf,  4000  Inhab. 

Zamosts,  a  town  of  4000  Inhab.,  for- 
merly fortified.  In  1813  the  Polish  Ge- 
neral Hauke  was  besieged  in  it  by  the 
Russians,  and  only  surrendered  at  the 
end  of  the  campaign.  This  town  was 
once  the  property  of  the  Zamoiski 
family.  The  Hetman  John  Zamoiski  for- 
tified it  at  his  expense.  He  also  founded 
a  university  there,  which  was  suppressed 
in  1820,  on  the  establishment  of  a  uni- 
versity at  Warsaw.  There  is  a  pretty 
cli.  in  the  town,  and  in  one  of  the 
chapels  is  a  picture  attributed  to  Ra- 
phael. John  Zamoiski  lies  buried 
there.  Leaving  the  kingdom  at  To- 
rnaskov,  the  traveller  will  pass  Zolkief, 
the  birthplace  of  John  III.  Sobieski,  on 
his  way  to 

Lemberg,  the  capital  of  Austrian 
Galicia. 


GRAND  DUCHY  OF  FINLAND. 


SECTION  IV.— FINLAND. 


INTRODUCTION. 


PAGE 

1.  Historical  Notice       369 

2.  Language 372 

3.  Words  and  Phrases 375 

4.  Measures,  Weights,  and  Coins..  379 


5.  Steamboats 


Mail 


G .  Travelling  —  Posting, 

Coaches,  &c 

7.  General  View  of  Finland  . . 


PAGE 

.   380 

.   380 
.   382 


1. — Historical  Notice. 

The  superficial  area  of  Finland  compiises  an  extent  of  6844  geographical 
miles.  Fertile  plains  occur  on  the  W.  and  S.W.  caasts,  where  they 
have  been  formed  bj^  the  recession  of  the  sea.  It  has  been  proved 
that,  in  the  si)ace  of  a  centy.,  the  western  coast  as  far  as  Wasa  has 
risen  4^  ft.,  while  the  remainin'j;  portion  of  the  coast  has  not  riseq 
2  ft.  during  the  same  period.  ^The  other  parts  of  Finland  abound 
with  mountains  and  lakes,  and,  with  the  exception  of  some  i)ortions  of 
North  America,  there  is  no  country  so  covered  with  water  as  Finland.  It 
is  probably  owin^  to  this  circumstance  that  the  name  of  the  country, 
"  Finland,"  derives  its  ori2;in  from  the  ancient  word  "  fennen,"  signifying 
a  morass;  in  the  Finnish  language  it  is  called  " Suomi,"  which  has 
almost  a  similar  meaning.  It  is  to  be  observed  that  there  is  a  distmc- 
tion  in  the  two  denominations  of  "  Finlander,"  and  "  Finn  :"  the  former  is 
applied  to  all  the  inhab.  of  Finland,  and  the  latter  only  to  those  who  belong 
to  the  Finnish  race.  The  Finnish  people  belong  to  the  Caucasian  family, 
and  it  is  supposed  that  they  originally  came  from  the  foot  of  the  Altai 
Mountains.  Traversing  the  Ural,  they  passed  through  Russia,  leaving 
fragments  of  their  race  in  the  provinces  of  Perm,  Viatka,  Archangel, 
and  Olonetz.  The  Cheremisses  in  the  province  of  Kazan,  and  the  Samo- 
yedes  on  the  bordere  of  the  White  Sea,  as  well  as  the  Esthonians  and 
the  Hungarians,  belong  to  the  Finnish  race.  The  Laplanders  were  the 
first  com'ers;  thev  settled  on  the  southern  shores  of  the  Baltic,  from 
whence  they  were"  driven  away  to  the  N.  by  other  tribes,  and  they  have 
now  been  expelled  to  the  utmost  limits  of  cultivation.  In  the  year  1249 
there  were  still  a  great  many  Laplanders  near  Tavastehus.  The  Tavas- 
tehuses  and  the  Carels  established  themselves  in  Ingria  and  Finland,  the 
former  occupying  the  south-western  part  of  the  country,  and  the  latter  the 


370 


1. — Historical  Notice, 


Sect.  IV. 


Finland. 


1. — Historical  Notice. 


871 


eastern.  The  Finns  were  in  ancient  times  divided  into  separate  tribes,  who 
were  always  at  war  with  each  other  ;  no  organised  system  of  government 
existing  amongst  them.  They  lived  together  in  societies  composed  of  a 
great  many  families,  their  women  enjoying  great  liberty,  and  being  held 
in  great  respect.  They  understood  agriculture,  and  possessed  a  few  rudo 
laws. 

Finland  excited  the  covetousness  of  her  neighbours  at  a  very  early  date, 

and  she  had  to  defend  herself  on  the  one  hand  from  the  attacks  of  the 

Kussians,  and,  on  the  other,  from  those  of  the  Swedes.     In  1157,  at  the 

instigation  of  the  Pope,  St.  Eric,  King  of  Sweden,  undertook  a  crusade  against 

the  Finns  with  the  object  of  converting  them,  as  well  as  in  order  to  ])ut  an 

end  to  their  depredations  on  the  Swedish  coast,  an  occasion  on  which  he 

founded  the  town  of  Abo.   But  it  was  only  after  the  lapse  of  150  years  that 

the  power  of  Sweden  was  firmly  established  by  Birger  Jarl,  who  built  the 

town  of  Tavastehus.     After  the  conquest  of  Wybnrg  in  1293,  the  Swedes 

were  brought  into  direct  contact  with  the  Kussians,  with  whom  the  first 

treaty  of  peace  was  made  on  the  banks  of  the  Neva  in  1323,  when  it  was 

decided  that  the  river  Bajajoki  should  be  the  recognised  boundary  between 

the  two  countries  :  a  boundary  that  divides  the  two  countries  to  the  present 

day.     From  that  period  Finland  became  a  Swedish  jjrovince,  placed  in  all 

respects  on  the  same  political  footing  as  the  other  provinces  of  the  kingdom, 

the  Finlanders  sending  representatives  to  the  Swedish  Diet.     Its  history 

merged  into  that  of  Sweden,  and  the  wars  with  Bussia,  which  had  been 

confined  to  petty  incursions,  assumed  more  extensive  dimensions  after  the 

accession  of  Ivan  I.,  and  contiiuied  with  some  short  intervals  until  1617  ; 

when,  during  the  reign  of  Gustavus  Adolphus,  the  frontier  was  secured  by 

the  conquest  of  Kexholm  and  Ingrin,  which  were  ceded  by  the  treaty  of  Stol- 

bova.     During  a  period  of  about  70  years  Finland  was  not  affected  by  the 

war  that  was  waged  ;  but,  between  the  years  1G92  and  1726,  it  was  visited 

by  such  great  and  numerous  calamities  as  are  seldom  recorded  in  the  history 

of  nations.    During  the  great  famine  between  the  vears  1692  and  1696  there 

perished  in  the  province  of  Abo  alone  60,000  persons,  and,  in  many  ])arts 

of  the  country,  the  churches,  owing  to  the  extinction  of  the  ])Opulation,  were 

obliged  to  be  closed.     In  1699  the  great  war  with  Bussia,  which  lasted 

21  yeare,  commenced.     Thousands  of  Finlanders  perished  in  the  wars  of 

Charles  XII. ;  5  regiments  completely  disappeared  during  the  march  into 

the  Ukraine  and^at  Poltava,  having  been  either  destroyed  or  captured.    In 

the  province  of  Abo  40,000  men  were  enlisted  as  soldiers  between  the  years 

1700  and  1709.     Between  the  years  1710  and  1715  the  Bussians  invaded 

the  whole  of  Finland,  and  it  was  only  when  the  jx^ace  of  Kystadt  was 

signed  in   1721    that  Finland,  with   the  exception  of  the   province  of 

Wyburg,  was  restored  to  Sweden  after  having  been  occupied  by  Bussia  for 

6  years.     In  1721  the  entire  population  of  Finland  amounted  to  200,000  or 

250,000  persons.     Another  famine,  however,  apj^earing  between  the  years 

1723-6,  it  was  only  towards  the  close  of  that  period,  owing  to  the  efforts 

of  the  Government  and  the  beneficial  effects  of  ]wace,  that  the  country 

began  to  wear  a  somewhat  prosperous  aspect ;  and  by  the  year  1738  tlio 

population  had  already  increased  to  413,000  persons.     Peace,  however,  was 

not  of  long  duration,  for  the  Swedes,  anxious  to  regain  possession  of  their 

ancient  provinces,  declared  war  again  in  1741 ;  but,  owing  to  a  want  of 


I 


money  and  foresight,  the  most  necessary  preparations  were  not  made. 
The  army  was  in  a  disorganised  condition,  and,  after  a  defeat  at 
Willmanstrand,  was  obliged  to  retreat  to  Helsingfors,  where  it  was  sur- 
rounded by  the  Bussians.  A  want  of  provisions,  clothing,  and  forage 
obliged  the  army  to  capitulate  on  the  23rd  of  August,  1742.  Sweden 
was  at  that  period  divided  into  two  contending  political  parties,  both 
aspiring  to  po\ver ;  the  peace  party  gaining  greater  ascendency  as  the  war 
proved  more  and  more  disastrous.  The  influence  of  this  party  extended 
to  the  officers  of  the  army,  and  paralysed  to  a  certain  degree  the  action 
of  the  Commander-in-chief.  To  complete  the  disorder  that  reigned  in 
the  army,  two  of  the  most  responsible  Generals  were  recalled  to  Sweden  a 
few  days  before  the  capitulation  of  the  army,  and  i)aid  with  tlieir  lives  the 
i"aults  committed  by  their  faction.  They  were  accused  of  treachery  and 
sentenced  to  death :  an  accusation  of  which  history  has  fully  acquitted 
them,  condemning  them  only  for  accepting  a  responsibility  to  which  they 
were  not  equal,  and  for  having  provided  in  so  inefiicient  a  manner  for  tlie 
wants  of  the  forces  under  their  command.  By  the  peace  of  Abo,  in  1743, 
the  towns  of  Willmanstrand,  Fredrikshamn,  and  Nystadt  were  ceded,  and 
the  river  Kymen,  near  Lovisa,  was  fixed  uj^on  as  the  boundary-line.  The 
same  desire  to  regain  the  lost  provinces  induced  Gustavus  III.  to  com- 
mence a  war  in  1788,  when  he  himself  headed  an  army ;  but  the 
tragical  Anjala  conspiracy,  so  celebrated  in  history,  obliged  him  soon  to 
return  to  Sweden,  and  a  favourable  opportunity  for  action  was  thus 
lost.  A  conspiracy  had  been  formed  by  206  officers :  one  section  was 
for  declaring  Finland  indejxindent  under  the  protection  of  Bussia,  the 
other  for  limiting  the  power  of  the  King.  The  King  having  violated 
the  constitution  by  undertaking  a  war  of  aggi'ession  without  the  consent 
of  the  Diet,  the  conspirators  made  this  a  pretext  for  inducing  the 
army  to  disobey  his  orders.  In  the  following  year,  1789,  the  small 
fleet  of  gunboats  was  destroyed  at  Svensksund  by  the  Prince  of  Nassau. 
In  1790  the  King  resolved  on  taking  Wyborg ;  and  the  Swedish  fleet, 
which  had  already  fought  an  undecided  battle  at  Hogland,  proceeded  to 
the  Gulf  of  Wyborg,  where  it  was  blockaded  by  the  Bussian  fleet.  The 
Swedish  fleet  numbered  25  vessels  of  the  line  and  13  frigates,  and  the 
Bussian  consisted  of  32  vessels  of  the  line,  8  two-deckers,  and  11 
frigates.  After  remaining  in  front  of  Wyborg  for  the  space  of  a  month 
without  taking  it,  the  King  found  himself  obliged  to  force  a  passage 
through  the  Bussian  ships.  This  desperate  resolution  was  executed 
on  the  3rd  of  July,  and  on  the  4th  and  5th  of  the  same  montli  the 
Swedish  fleet  arrived  at  Sveaborg,  consisting  only  of  14  vessels  of  the 
line  and  9  frigates.  Some  days  after  this  event  the  Prince  of  Nassau 
attacked  the  little  Swedish  fleet  on  the  same  spot  as  the  preceding  year, 
but  with  a  result  altogether  different,  for  the  Bussians  lost  53  vessels  and 
4000  men.  By  the  ix?ace  of  Warela,  signed  in  the  same  year,  all  matters 
were  suffered  to  remain  on  the  same  basis  as  they  had  stood  before  the  war. 
The  last  war,  which  ended  in  the  conquest  of  Finland,  was  commenced  in 
the  month  of  February,  1808,  by  the  Bussians,  who,  Avhile  having  no 
])retext  for  taking  the  field,  crossed  the  frontier  without  even  a  preliminary 
declaration  of  hostilities.  They  were  not  wrong  in  considering  the 
opportunity  favourable  for  the  prosecution  of  their  plans ;  for,  although 

S  o 


372 


2. — Language. 


Sect.  IV. 


Finland. 


2. — Language, 


the  last  Swedish  corps,  crossing  over  the  ice  into  Sweden,  did  not  quit  the 
islands  of  Aland  before  the  month  of  March,  1809,  the  fate  of  Finland  had 
already  been  decided  on  the  3rd  of  May,  1808,  by  the  surrender  of  Sveaborg. 

The  little  army  of  Finland  retired  towards  the  north,  resisting  the  enemy 
wherever  there  was  a  chance  of  success,  and  it  was  even  victorious  in 
some  small  engagements,  as  at  Siikajoki,  lievolax,  Pieskkila,  Lappo,  and 
Alavo.  Being  still  pursued,  General  Adlercreutz  decided  to  offer  the 
disastrous  battle  at  Orawais,  which  was  the  last  remarkable  effort  during 
this  war.  Durini^  fourteen  hours,  3500  Swedes  and  Finlanders  fought 
against  8500  liussians,  and  it  was  only  owing  to  a  reinforcement  of 
2000  men  that  the  victory  was  at  last  decided  in  favour  of  the  latter. 
By  the  peace  of  Fredrikshamn,  in  Sei)tember,  1809,  Finland,  together 
with  the  islands  of  Aland,  was  ceded  to  lUissia,  and  the  river  Torneao 
now  marks  tlie  boundary-line  of  Sweden.  In  a  manifesto  addressed  to 
the  Diet  at  Borga,  the  Emperor  Alexander  I.  assured  to  the  Finlanders 
the  maintenance^of  their  religion  and  the  integrity  of  their  constitution, 
as  well  as  all  the  rights  and  i)rivileges  they  had  formerly  enjoyed. 

The  constitution  of  Finland  is  similar  to  that  of  Sweden,  and  was  intro- 
duced by  Gustavus  III.  in  1772  and  1789.  The  power  of  the  sovereign 
is  very  extensive,  but  personal  liberty  is  protected  by  the  laws,  and  the 
consent  of  the  Diet  must  be  obtained  for  the  imposition  of  new  taxes, 
and  for  the  introduction  of  new  criminal  and  civil  laws.  The  Diet, 
which  is  composed  of  four  estates,  is  only  convoked  when  the  sovereign 
judges  it  necessary  to  do  so,  and  after  that  of  Borgo,  in  1809,  no  Diet 
assembled  before  the  year  18G3. 

The  executive  power  is  vested  in  the  Governor-General,  and  in  the 
Imperial  Senate  at  Helsingfors.  State  affairs,  which  have  to  be  submitted 
to  the  Emperor,  pass  through  the  chancery  of  the  Secretary  of  State  lor 
Finland,  who  resides  at  St.  Petersburg.  In  1811  the  province  of 
Wyborg  was  reunited  to  Finland,  and  the  pojmlation  is  now  composed 
of  1,749,000  Protestants,  and  of  about  40,000  belonging  to  the  Pussian 
orthodox  Church. 

2. — Language. 

The  Finnish  language  (Suomen  Kieli)  is  entirely  different  from  all  the 
other  European  languages,  and  belongs  to  the  family  called  by  philologists 
the  Ural-Altaic.  Its  peculiar  characteristic  is,  that  all  derivation,  declina- 
tion, and  conjugation,  is  effected  by  means  of  suffixes,  and  thus  the  root 
invariably  forms  the  beginning  of  every  word.  The  conjunctions  arc  not 
very  nmnerous,  as  their  place  in  the  connexion  of  the  parts  of  a  sentence  is 
frequently  supplied  by  certain  nominal  or  adverbial  parts  of  speech.  Of 
prepositions  there  are  hardly  any  whatever ;  a  small  number  of  post- 
fositionSj  and  the  case-terminations,  of  which  there  are  fifteen,  discharge 
their  office.  The  language  is  rich  in  derived  verbs  ;  subjoins  to  the  cardinal 
numbers  the  objects  to  which  they  refer,  in  the  singular  number  ;  recognises 
no  grammatical  distinction  of  genders;  and  has  no  articles.  One  j^ecu- 
liarity  which  all  the  languages  of  Finnish  source  possess  in  common  is  the 
voiuel-hm-rnony,  i.e.  the  law  that  the  vowel  in  the  syllables  of  inflexion 
(in  which,  therefore,  it  often  occurs  that  the  consonants   alone  remain 


373 

Thus  for 


unchanged)  is  entirely  dependent  on  the  vowels  in  the  root. 

example  i — 

Kala  (fish)  takes,  in  the  incssive  case,  the  form  oiKalassa  (in  the  fish) ; 

and 

Kyla  (village),  the  form  Kylassa  (in  the  village). 

Tlie  terminations,  therefore,  are  twofold,  either  in  a,  or  ni  a.  It  the 
word  has  a,  o,  or  u,  in  the  root,  the  termination  is  a ;  if  it  has  ?/,  a,  or  o,  m 
the  root,  the  tx?rniination  is  a.  If  ^  or  e  occurs  in  the  root,  both  termina- 
tions are  employed,  but  that  in  a  is  the  most  common. 

Another  peculiarity  of  the  language  is  this,  — that  not  one  purely 
Finnish  word  begins  with  two  consonants. 

The  literature  is  still  poor,  and  cannot  well  be  otherwise,  as,  down  t»  the 
present  day,  the  Finnish  language  is  six)ken  only  by  the  peasants  and  the 
workin<^  classes,  Swedish  being  the  official  language,  and  that  of  the  upper 
classes."  The  oldest  Finnish  book,  a  Prayer-Book,  was  printed  m  the  year 
1544.  The  New  Testament  and  Psalter,  translated  by  Michael  Agricola,  the 
Bishop  of  Abo,  was  published  in  1548 ;  the  whole  Bible  did  not  appear  tdl 
1642  nearly  a  hundred  years  later,  when  it  was  published  under  the 
auspices  of  the  University  of  Abo,  wliich  had  been  founded  m  1640. 
From  that  time  the  language  was  only  employed  in  works  of  a  religious 
character,  until  1804,  when  Hcnric  Gabriel  Porthan,  Professor  at  Abo, 
directed  the  attention  of  the  learned  world  generally,  and  his  own  country- 
men in  particular,  to  its  richness  and  capability  of  further  development. 
After  Finland  had  been  united  with  Pussia  in  1809,  and  the  linnisli 
nation  was  throwTi  more  entirely  upon  its  own  resources,  the  language  ot 
the  country  was  to  some  extent  restored.  Since  Elias  Lbnnret  discovered  the 
rich  treasures  of  Finnish  popular  \  oetry,  which  he  took  down  just  as  he 
heard  it  from  the  people  during  wanderings  through  the  whole  country, 
extendincr  over  many  years ;  and  since  '  Kalewala,'  the  national  epic, 
api^ared  in  print  in  1835,  translated  into  German  by  the  Academician 
A.  Schiefner,  of  St.  Petersburcr,  it  has  been  the  endeavour  of  young  1  inlancl 
to  develop  Finnish  into  a  language  of  culture  and  refinement ;  Swedish 
bavin-  hitherto  been  the  medium  of  all  intellectual  and  literary  activity. 
At  the  present  time  there  are  two  Professors  at  the  University  ot 
Helsincrfors,  who  deliver  their  lectures  in  Finnish;  and  it  has  even 
been  attenuated  to  translate  Schiller  and  Shakspeare  into  it.  An  im- 
portant epoch  for  the  future  of  Finland  was  introduced  by  the  imperial 
manifesto  of  the  10th  of  February,  1865,  which  ordains  that  all  persons 
entering  the  public  service  in  Finland  must  henceforth  learn  Finnish  in 
order  that  it  may  become  the  official  language  of  the  Grand  Duchy  after 

the  year  1883.  _  ,,  , ,     •  „;i 

The  pronunciation  of  Finnish  is  easy.  Every  syllable  is  pronounced 

just  as  it  is  spelt.    Long  vowels  are  written  double.    The  accent  is  always 
on  the  first  syllable. 

The  Alphabet. 

A  a  in  Finnish  has  the  sound  of  a  in  far. 

B  b  occurs  only  in  foreign  names.  ,    „     ,   c  -a 

c  c  !l     »  »  ^^  ^^  ^^®  ^^"^  ^^  ^  ^      ^'  ^'  ^' 

•    that  of  k  before  a,  o,  u,  o. 


374 


2. — Language. 


Sect.  IV. 


Finland. 


D  d  has  the  sound  of  d  in  day. 

E  e  ,,  e       met. 

F   f  „  f        fat. 

G  g*  is  a  nasal  consonant ;  occurs  only  after  n,  and  is  pronounced  like  g  in 

strong. 
H  li  has  the  sound  of  h  in  hunt ;  at  the  end  of  syllables,  often  like  the  Celtic 

gutteral  kh,  as  pehko  (bush),  pronounced  pukh-ko. 
i  has  the  sound  of  e  in  me. 


I 

J  J 

K  k 

L  1 

INI  m 

N  n 

O  o 

P  p 


'> 


>» 


» 


.»> 


5> 


j  hallelujah, 

k  keen. 

1  lay. 

m  may. 

n  nay. 

0  not. 

p     pay- 

Q  q  occurs  only  in  foreign  names. 

E  r  has  the  sound  of  r  in  ray,  and  is  always  distinctly  pronounced. 

S    s  /         „  8        say. 

T   t  „  t        tailor. 

TJ  u  „  GO      root. 

W  w  V  V     „  V        vale. 

X  X  occurs  only  in  foreign  names. 

Y  y  has  the  sound  of  the  French  u  in  sur. 

Z   z  occurs  only  in  foreign  names. 

A  a  has  the  sound  of  ea  in  swear. 

u       but. 
0   o  ,.  ^i        girl. 

ea      earl. 

Diphthongs. 

ie  is  a  diphthong,  pronounced  as  in  fimcier. 

uo  has  the  sound  of  the  Italian  uo  in  buona. 

yo  ,,  nearly  as  eou  in  extraneous. 

ai  ,,  of  ie  in  pie. 

ei  „  i         slight. 

oi  „  oi       spoil. 

ui  like  oo-ee ;  a  quick  contraction  as  in  the  French  Louis. 

yi  has  the  sound  of  ui  in  the  French  puis,  quickly  contracted. 

ai  ..  ie        tie. 

the  German  oi  quickly  contracted, 
or  „  eu  in  feuor  (fire). 

iiu  „  tlie  Italian  au  in  audace. 

eu  like  ay-oo,  f.  i.  neula  (needle)  is  pronounced  like  nay-oolah,  or  na-oolah. 

iu  like  ee-oo,  f.  i.  kiuru  (lark)   is  pronounced  like  keeooroo,  quickly  con- 
tracted. 

ou  like  o-oo,  f.  i.   koura  (gripe)  is  pronoimced  like  ko-oorah,  quickly  con- 
tracted. 

ay  like  ou  in  moutli. 

oy  like  the  Genuan  sound  oii,  quickly  contracted. 

*  The  g  has  the  nasal  sound  even  when  at  the  commencement  of  the  following  syllable,  as 
Kunin-gas  (kuig)  is  prunouiiced  Kooning-ass,  the  pure  g  or  gay  sound  not  being  heard. 


.{ 


The  emperor 

Keisari. 

The  empress 

Keisarinna. 

The  crown  prince 

Perintd-ruhtinas. 

A  grand  duke 

Saitri-ruhtinas, 

A  prince 

Ruhtinas. 

A  count 

Kreiui. 

A  noble 

Aatelinen. 

The  lord 

Herra. 

Sir,  or  IMr. 

Herra. 

The  head  of  a  village    Kyldn  wanhin. 

A  fishennan 

Kalamies. 

An  employe' 

Wirhamies. 

A  peasant 

Talonpoiha. 

A  policeman 

Folisi-mies. 

A  blacksmith 

Eautaseppd. 

A  drojky  or  sledge- 

)  Iswossikha,     Ajo 
)       mies. 

driver 

A  coachman 

Ajaja,  renhi. 

1  HoUimies. 

A  postilion 

\  Postiljiioni   {of  t 

{      Fast  Office). 

A  waiter 

Passari. 

A  porter 

Portin  wartia. 

A  water-carrier 

Vedenkulettaja . 

A  foreigner 

Ulkomaalainen. 

Chief  city 

Piidkaupimti. 

A  town 

Kaupunti. 

A  street 

Katu. 

A  cross-street 

Syrjdkatu. 

A  square 

Tori. 

A  market 

Kauppatori, 

A  row  of  shops 

Puoti-riwi. 

A  shop 

Puoti. 

A  quay 

Eantakatu. 

A  gateway 

Portti. 

Outer  door 

Ulko-owi. 

An  island 

Saari. 

A  garden 

Trtti-tarha. 

A  field 

Keto. 

A  cathedral 

Tnoyiilo-kirkko. 

A  church 

Kirkko. 

A  belfry 

Kello-kastari. 

A  cemetery 

JIautmismaa. 

A  monastery 

Luostari. 

A  palace 

Palatsi,  howi. 

An  hotel 

Ilotelli. 

A  restaurant 

Rawintola. 

A  house 

TalOf  kartano. 

A  courtyaixi 

Piha. 

A  villa 

Hnvila. 

A  room 

Kainmari,  suoja. 

8. — Words  and  Phrases. 


3. — Words  and  Phrases. 


A  chemist's 

The  parade-ground 

A  barrack 

A  fort 

A  bridge 

A  river 

A  villacje 

A  road 

A  hill 

The  bath-house 

A  post  station 

The  Exchange 

English  Ambassador< 

English  Consul 
To  write 
Paper 
Ink 
Pen 
the  Pencil 
To  eat 
To  drink 
To  breakfast 
Breakfast 
To  dine 
Dinner 
To  sup 
Supper 
A  portion 
Soup 
An  ice 

Cabbage  soup 
Pie 

A  roast 
Beef 
Veal 
Mutton 
Cutlets 
Beefsteak 
Fish 
Ham 
A  fowl 
A  hen 
A  chicken 
A  hare 
A  partridge 
Hsizel  -  grouse    (  Te-) 
trao  honasia)         j 
Black  cock 
Cajiercailzie 
Potatoes 


375 


Apteekki. 
Parati'kenUd. 
Kasarmi. 
Linna. 
Silta. 

Wirta,  joki. 
Kijld. 
Tie. 
Vaori. 
Sauna. 
HolUpaikka. 
Porssi. 
En/jlannin    Idhetti- 

Ids. 
Emjlannin  Kornml. 
Kirjoittaa. 
Paperi. 
Ldkki. 

Pdnndy  ki/nd. 
Lyijys-pdnnd. 
Syodd,  ruokaella. 
Juoda. 
Murkinoida. 
Mnrkina. 
Syodd  pdiwdllistd. 
Pdiudllinen. 
Illastella. 
Illallinen. 
Portsia. 
Suppi, 
A  la  glace. 
Kaali-snppi. 
Piirakka. 
Paisti. 

Paawaan  liha. 
Wasikan  liha. 
Lampaan  liha. 
Kotlettia. 
Hdrdnpiaisiia. 
Kala. 

Pdysti,  kinkku. 
Lintu. 
Kana. 

Kananpoika. 
Idnis. 
Metsdkana. 

Pyy- 

Teiri. 

Metso. 

Potaattia. 


370 


3. — Words  and  Phrases. 


Sect.  IV. 


Finland. 


3. — Words  and  Phrases, 


377 


Peas 

Cucumbers 

Apples 

Nuts 

White  bread 

Black  bread 

Pancakes 

Cheese 

Butter 

Eggs 

Cream 

Milk 

Wine 

Pears 

Corn  brand V 

Beer 

Coffee 

Tea 

Sugar 

Water 

A  glass  of  water 

Hot  water 

Cold  water 

Salt 

Pepper 

Vinegar 
Mustard 
A  tiomk 
Portmanteau 
Travelling-bag 

Box  or  case 

A  tea-urn 
A  tea-pot 
A  pail 
A  bottle 
A  glass 
A  cup 

A  wine-glass 
A  plate 
A  knife 
A  fork 
A  spoon 
A  table 
Abed 
A  stove 
Fire 
A  light 
A  napkin 
A  duster 


{ 


JTemeitd. 
Kurkkuja. 
Omcnin. 
Fdhhinuitd. 
Walkea  Icipu. 
Miista  leipd. 
Fannun  Kakhxja. 
Juustoa.  « 

Woita. 
Munia. 

Pddllistd,  Taalctta. 
Maitoa. 
Wiinid. 
]*erunoita. 
Wiinaa. 
Olntta. 
Kahvea. 
Tccta. 
Sokeria. 
Wettu. 

LasilUnen  wettd. 
Kicliuwata  icettd. 
Kylmdd  iccttd. 
Suolaa. 
Pippuria. 

Atikhdd. 
Sinappia. 
Arkku,  Kirstu. 
Kapsdkhi. 
Mntka-piissi. 
Wakka,  rasia,  laa- 

tikko. 
Samowari, 
Tee-kannu. 
Ampdrif  kippa. 
Puteli. 
Juoma-lasi. 
Kuppi. 
llyyppy-lasi. 
Talrekki,  lautancn. 
Weitsi. 
Kah'.celi. 
Lusikka, 
Poytd. 
Sd7iky. 
Unni. 

Tulta,  walkeaa, 
Kynttild. 
Salwetti. 
Riepu. 


A  hat 

Hattu. 

A  fur  cloak 

Turkki. 

A  piir  of  boots 

Saappaat. 

A  bath 

Kylpy. 

A  dressing-gown 

Yij-takkiy  halatti. 

A  boat 

Wene. 

A  can'iage 

Waunu. 

A  cart 

Kdrrit,  rattaat. 

A  wheel 

Pyord. 

The  pole 

Aisa. 

A  cord 

Nitora. 

A  horse 

.Hciconen. 

Horses 

Ifewosia, 

Hay 

Hcinid. 

Straw 

Olkia. 

A  book 

Kirja. 

A  whip 

Piiska. 

A  snow-storm 

TxiiskUy  Pyry. 

Ice 

Jdd. 

Half 

Puoli. 

A  quarter 

Ncljdnnes. 

Great 

Suuri^  ISO. 

Little 

Pieni,  wdhd. 

Beautiful 

Kannis,  ihana. 

Old 

Wanha. 

New 

Uiisi. 

Yes 

NU71. 

No 

Ex. 

Good,  very  well 

Oikcen,  hywdsti. 

Not  good,  not  well 

(   Wddrin,      pahasti, 
\      hionosti. 

Bring 

Tuokaa. 

For  me 

MiiiuUe. 

More 

Enemmdn, 

Less 

Wdfiemmdn. 

That 

Tdmd. 

Enough 

Kylld,  piisaa. 

Not  enough 

Ei  piisaa  wield. 

Too  long 

Aiican  kauwan. 

Give 

Anna. 

Give  me 

Anna  minulle. 

Give  us 

Anna  meille. 

Now 

Nyt. 

It  cannot  be  done 

Situ  ei  tvoi  tehdd. 

Do  better 

Tee  paremmin. 

Feather 

Isd. 

Mother 

Aitif  emo. 

Brother 

Weli. 

Sister 

Sisar, 

DlAIiOGUES.— Kanssa-puiieita. 


Kgp 


Good  day. 

Good  night. 

Good  bye. 

If  you  please. 

Thank  you. 

Here. 

Who  is  there  ? 

Here,  here,  sir. 

Come  here. 

Hollo!  here. 

I  come  directly. 

1  hear  and  obey. 

I)irectly. 

Let  us  go  (on  foot). 

Let  us  go  (in  a  ciirriage). 

Go  on. 

Drive  gently. 

Never  mind,  or  nothing. 

Hurry  quick. 

Drive  faster. 

Have  a  care. 

(Jive  room,  give  place. 

To  the  right. 

To  the  left. 

Go  further  on. 

Drive  home. 

Stop. 

Tell  me. 

What  is  it? 

How  do  they  call  it  ? 

What  does  it  cost  ? 

How  much  the  arshin  ? 

How  much  the  pound  ? 

It  is  dear. 

It  is  much. 

It  is  cheap. 

Can  you  give  change  ? 
Ditto. 

I  don't  know. 

Not  wanted. 

I  won't  have. 

Is  it  ready  ? 

Set  the  tea-urn. 

Give  us  a  spoon. 

What  is  to  be  done? 

What's  o'clock  ? 

In  how  many  hours  ? 

Is  it  possible  ? 
Where  is  the  inn  ? 
How  many  versts  ? 


{ 


Ilyicdd  pdiwdd. 

Ili/icdd  yotd. 

Jddkdd  hy^i-dsti. 

Olkaa  niin  hywd. 

Pal j on  kiitosta. 

Tdssd. 

Kuka  sielld  ? 

TdnnCy  tdnne  herra. 

Tule  tdnne. 

Hoi  I  kunle. 

Mind  tulen  paikalla. 

Mind  noudatan  kdskydnne. 

Paikalla,  heti. 

Astukaamnie^  menhddmme. 

Ldhtekddmme,  ajakaamme. 

Mene  tichesi. 

Hiljaa. 

Ei  mitddn. 

Joudu  pian. 

Mene  icdlcmmin. 

Kawata, 

Pais  tieltd ;  tie  auki. 

Oikcaan. 

Wasempaan. 

Pois  ctemmdksi. 

Kotia  Aja. 

Seisata. 

Sanokaa  minulle. 

Mikd  se  ? 

3Iiksi  sitd  kntsutaan  ? 

Paljonko  maksaa  ?  3fikd  Junta  ? 

Paljonko  arsinalta  ? 

Paljonko  naulalta  ? 

Sc  on  kallis. 

Se  on  paljon. 

Se  on  huokeata. 

Woitteko  waihtaa  rahaa  ? 

Onko  tcilld  takaisin  antaa  ? 

En  ticdd. 

Ei  liuoli. 

En  huoli. 

Onko  se  walmis  ? 
Walmista  samowari. 

Anna  meille  lusikka, 

Mitds  tehdd  1 

Monce  tiinti? 

Monessako  tunnissa  ?  or  monenko  tunnin 

pcrdstd  ? 
Onko  se  mahdollista  ? 
Missd  kestkiewari'i 
Montako  wirstaa  ? 


378 

Where  is  the  landlord  ? 

I  will  pass  the  night  here. 

When  do  you  start? 

To-day. 

To-morrow. 

In  an  hour. 

It  is  time  to  be  off. 

Which  is  the  way  to  — — 


3. —  Words  and  Phrases, 


} 
Sect.  IV. 


Finland. 


4. — Measures^  Weights,  and  Coins, 


379 


Pray  show  me  the  way. 

Where  is  the  fisherman  ? 

What  kind  of  a  road  is  it  ? 

Are  the  horses  to  ? 

What  is  to  pay  for  them  ? 

Drink  money. 

I  will  giv'eyou  drink  money. 

I  will  not  give  you  drink  money. 

What  station  is  it  ? 

How  long  do  we  stop  ? 

Whei-e  is  the  refreshment-room  ? 

Where  is  the  W.  C.  ? 

Where  is  the  telegraph-office  ? 

Where  is  the  luirsase  ? 


{ 
I 


Names  op  the  Months, 
Kuukausien  nimet. 


January 

February 

IMarch 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August 

September 

October 

November 

December 

Monday 

Tuesday 


one,  yksi. 
two,  kaksi. 
three,  kolme. 
four,  neljd. 
five,  viisi. 
six,  kuusi. 


Tammihiu, 

Jfclmiknu. 

Maaliskuu. 

Ihihtikmi. 

Tottkokuu. 

Kcsakitu, 

Heiniikun. 

Eloknn. 

Syyskmt. 

Lokakuu. 

Marraskuu. 

Joulukuu. 

Maanantni, 

Tiistai, 


Missd  isdntd  ? 

Mind  tahdon  olla  tdssd  yotd, 

Milloinka  te  nousettc '/ 

Tdndpdnd. 

Huomenna. 

Tunnin  pcrdstd. 

Aika  on  Idhted. 

*Mistd  tie  inenee  -aan,  -een,   'iin,  'Oon 

-nun,  -yyn,  -ddn,  -don. 
Olkaa    niin    hyvcd,    ndyttdkdd    minulle 

tie. 
Missd  kalamies? 
Mikd  tie  td/nd  07i  ? 
Oicatko  hewoset  waljaissa  ? 
Paljonko  kyytiraha  tekee  f 
Juoinara/iaa. 
Mind  annan  juomarahaa. 
Mind  en  anna  juomarahaa. 
Mikd  hollipaikka  tdmd  on  ? 
Montako  minuttia  viiwymme  tdssd  ? 
Missd  raicinto-hnone  i 
Missd  ihmistcn  ulko-huone  ? 
Missd  telegrafi-laitos  ? 
Missd  t  a  war  at  ? 

Days  of  the  Week,  etc. 

Wiikonpaiwatyj.  n.  e. 


Wednesday 
Thursday 
Friday 
Saturday 
Sunday 
Winter 
Summer 
A  vear 
A  month 
A  week 
A  dav 
An  liour 
Half  an  hour 


Kcskiiciikko, 
Torstai. 
Perjantai. 
Lamcantai. 
Sunnuntai. 
Talwi. 
Kesd,  suici, 
Waosi. 
Knukaiisi. 
Wiikko. 
Pdiud. 
Tunti. 
Puolituntia. 


The  Numerals.— Luwut. 

seven,  seitsemdn. 
eight,  kahdeksan, 
nine,  yhdcksdn. 
ten,  kymmciien. 
t  eleven,  yksi-toista. 

twelve,  kaksi'toista. 


And  so  on,  always  adding   toista   to 

each  number  up  to 
twenty,  kaksi-kymmentd. 
twenty-one,  kaksi-kymmenid-yksi. 
twenty-two,  kaksi-kymmentd-kaksi. 

And  so  on,  always  adding  the  unit  up 

to  one  hundred,  as 
thirty,  kolme-kymmentd. 
forty,  neljd-kymmentd. 
fifty,  wiisi'kymmentd. 
sixty,  kuHsi-kymmentd. 


seventy,  scitsemdn-kymmentd. 
eighty,  kahdeksan-kymmentd. 
ninety,  yhdeksdn-kymmentd. 
one  hundred,  sata. 
two  hundred,  kaksi  sataa. 
three  hundred,  kolme  sataa,  etc. 
one  thousand,  tuhatta. 
two  thousand,  kaksi  tuhatta. 
three    thousand,    etc.,    kolme     tuhatta, 
j.  n.  e. 


Ex.  gr.  Haminaan,  to  Fredrikshamn  ;  Helsinku"??,  to  Ilelsingfors;  KuopiooTj,  to  luiopio; 
Ouluun  to  Uleaburg;  JyvvliskylfVa/^  to  Jywuskyla,  &c.  The  harmony  of  the  vowels  always 
observed,  except  in  foreign  names -Londontm,  Brysselun,  to  Ix>ndon,  to  Urussels.  where  im 'is 
the  rule. 


4. — Measures,  Weights,  and  Coins. 

Measures  of  Length. — Pituuden  Mitat. 

=   3*08    Finnish  {foot  =  )    jalkaa,    1     jalka  =  12    tuumaa 

=    12  linjaa. 

=     1  sylta. 

=      1  kyynara. 

=     4  waaksaa  eli  korttelia. 

=      6  tuumaa. 

=   10  wirstaa. 

=  600  sylta. 

Measures  of  Capacity.— Awaruuden  Mitat. 

=  0'576  gallons  English. 

=  2  tuoppia. 

=  4  korttelia. 

=  4  jumfrua. 

Dry  ]\Ieasure. — Kuiwatawarain  Mitta. 

=  4-536  bushels. 

=  30  kappaa. 

=  2^'jj  kannua. 

=  7;V  kappaa. 

Weights. — Paino-mitta. 

)is    =     1'067  lbs.  (naulaa)  Finnish  avoiixJupois. 
=    32  luotia. 
=     4  kintiniii. 
=      1  (1.  lb.)  leiwiskiiii. 
=      1  (s.  lb.)  sippunta. 
=  228  1.1b.  (leiwiskaii). 

Coinage. 

Finland  having  lately  obtained  an  independent  currency,  the  people  calculate  in 
marks  and  pennies,  of  which  100  to  the  mark.  One  mark  is  equal  to  25  copecks  ; 
consequently,  4  marks  aie  equal  to  1  Silver  ruble ;  but  when  changing  Russian  paper 
money  into  Finnish  marks  at  the  present  exchange,  only  3  marks  and  45  pennies  will 
be  allowed.  In  August,  1866,  the  exchange  was  so  low  as  2  marks  80  pennies  per 
Russian  ruble.  The  traveller  will  have  no  difficulty  in  ascertaining  the  current 
exchange  by  merely  referring  to  any  of  tlie  public  newspapers  kept  on  board  the 
steamers.  At  the  rates  published  there,  Mi".  Heinibcrger,  agent,  at  Helsingfors,  for 
the  Scandia  Insurance  Company,  will  be  happy  to  exchange  any  amount. 


1  yard 

(inches). 
1  tuuma 

1 

6  jalkaa 
2  jalkaa 
1  kyyniirii 

H 

1  waaksa 

1 

1  penikulma 
1  wirsta 

1 

M 
1  kannu  Finnish 

■ 

1  kannu 

1 

1  tuoppi 
1  kortteli 

iSgc'.- 

1  tynnyri 
1  tynnyri 
1  kappa 
1  nelikko 

1 

1  pound  avoirdup 
1   naula 

1 

1  luoti 

1 

20  naulaa  (lb.) 
20  leiwiskii  (1.  lb.) 
1  laiwan  liisti 

380 


5. — Steamboats.     6. — Travdllng, 
5. — Steamboats. 


Sect.  IV. 


The  most  convenient  and  asjreeable  mode  of  visiting;  Finland  is  by  sea. 
There  are  now  four  excellent  and  commodious  steamships  plying  regularly 
during  the  summer  mouths  between  St.  Petersburg  and  Stockholm,  by  one 
of  which  the  tourist  (after  having  seen  to  his  passport)  should  secure  a 
passage  as  soon  as  possible.  These  vessels  at  present  leave  either  end  of 
the  line,  that  is  to  say  St.  Petersburg  and  Stockholm,  every  Tuesday  and 
Friday  morning ;  the  boat  from  St.  Petersburg  calls  and  remains  the  first 
night  at  Wyborg,  the  second  at  Helsingfors  (there  crossing  the  boat  from 

Stockholm),  the  third  at  Abo,  and  Stockholm  on  the   4th.     The  boat 

from  Stockholm  calls  and  remains  the  first  night  at  Abo,  the  second  at 
Helsingfors  (there  crossing  the  St.  Petersburg  boat),  the  third  at  Wyborg, 
and  reaches  St.  Petersburg  on  the  4th.  The  voyage  is  thus  completed 
in  four  days,  with  only  about  50  hours  of  actual  travelling,  during  which 
time  the  vessel  winds  her  intricate  and  tortuous  but  picturesque  course 
amongst  the  innumerable  islands  on  the  Finnish  coast.  Besides  the  above, 
there  are  two  steamers  plying  weekly  between  Helsingfors  and  St.  Peters- 
burg, one  via  Peval,  and  the  other  via  Fredrikshamu,  Wyborg,  &c.  There 
is  also  a  fine ^  line  of  steamers  plying  regularly  between  St.  Petersburg, 
Helsingfors,  Abo,  Bjurneborg,  and  up  the  Gulf  of  Bothnia  to  Uleaborg 

and  Tornea. 

6. — Travelling — Posting,  Mail  Coaches,  etc. 

Between  May  and  October,  that  is  to  say  as  long  as  the  sea  is  open,  the 
best  mode  of  reaching  St.  Petersburg  from  Stockholm  is  by  st(;amer.  The 
scenery  of  the  coast,  which  is  ftir  more  interesting  than  that  inland,  is  seen 
to  greater  advantage,  and  with  half  the  trouble  and  ex^K^nse.  Moreover, 
with  the  exception  of  the  road  between  Wyborg  and  St.  Petersburg,  there 

are  no  public  conveyances,  not  even  between  Abo  and  Helsingfors,  the 
old  and  modern  capitals  of  Finland.  Between  Wyborg  and  St.  Petersburg 
there  is  sometimes  a  coach,  but  the  days  of  departure  cannot  by  any 
means  be  relied  on.  The  best,  at  least  the  most  comfortable,  mode  of 
journeying  by  land,  is  in  a  private  carriage;  and  if  the  tourist  has  not  the 
good  fortune  to  ])0ssess  one,  he  had  better  supply  himself  with  one  at 
Stockholm  ;  a  travelling  caleche,  with  harness  complete,  may  be  purchased 

there  for  about  20/.  At  Abo,  being  at  the  mercy  of  the  landlord,  he  will 
pay  more  ;  moreover,  as  the  stock  of  carriages  there  consists  of  patched-up 
vehicles  which  have  been  purchased  from  travellers  returning  from  Russia, 
the  chances  are  that  the  tourist  will,  Ix'fore  he  reaches  Helsingfors,  find 
himself  brought  to  a  stand-still  on  the  road-side,  by  a  regular  break-down 
of  his  crazy  machine.  Carrioles,  similar  to  those  used  in  Norway  and 
Sweden,  are  the  carriages  most  generally  in  use  in  Finland,  and  by  far  the 
best  adapted  for  speed,  particularly  where  the  road  is  sandy,  which  is  the 
case,  more  or  less,  nearly  all  the  way  from  Abo  to  Helsingfors,  and  also 
along  the  shore  of  the  (Julf  of  Botlinia  to  Bjorneborg,  and  they  far  excel 
veliiclcs  of  any  other  construction  for  whirling  down  hill  at  full  gallop, — 
the  only  plan  of  descending  the  sharp  pitches  in  the  road  with  which  the 


Finland.        Q,— Travelling :  Posting,  Mail-Coaches,  do.  381 

Finnish  horses  appear  to  be  acquainted.  Besides  the  carriole  there  is 
another  species  of  vehicle,  called  a  kihitha,  a  long  narrow  cart  without 
springs,  and  covered  with  a  kind  of  leather  hood,  extending  over  about 
one-half  of  the  carriage.  The  bottom  of  the  kibitka  is  usually  provided 
with  a  feather-bed,  or  a  thick  covering  of  hay  or  straw,  and  on  this  the 
traveller  reclines  at  full  length.  As  to  repose,  it  is  doubtful  whether  any 
will  be  obtained  in  such  a  vehicle ;  in  addition  to  which,  the  traveller  sees 
nothing  whatever  of  the  country  through  which  he  passes.  This  kibitka  is 
an  introduction  from  Russia ;  the  really  national  carriage  of  the  Finlander 
is  a  machine  called  a  hondkara,  but  the  traveller  should  reflect  seriously 
before  he  submits  his  body  to  the  indescribable  agonies  created  by  the  cart 
so  called,  unless,  indeed,  it  is  his  intention  to  travel  in  the  telega  when  he 
reaches  Russia  ;  in  this  case  it  will  be  well  for  him  to  accustom  his  bones 
and  muscles  to  the  dislocations  which  he  will  be  subjected  to  in  the 
Undkara,  for,  though  these  two  vehicles  are  equally  rough,  the  roads  in 
Finland  are  far  sup'erior  to  those  in  Russia.  This  machine,  which  has  no 
sjirings,  is  nothing  more  than  an  oblong  kind  of  box  without  a  back,  placed 
on  an^  axle- tree  and  two  wheels,  and  a  board  is  nailed  or  tied  to  the  sides 
like  the  seat  of  a  taxed  cart ;  on  this  bench  the  traveller  and  the  postilion 
are  seated,  and  there  is  no  sUght  difficulty  in  keeping  an  equilibriiun, 
while  on  bad  parts  of  the  road  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  cling  firmly  to 
it  with  both  hands.  Scarcely,  too,  has  the  tourist  got  a  little  accustomed 
to  the  sway  and  play  of  this  horrid  cart,  when  he  finds  himself  at  a  post 
station,  where  he  is  obliged  to  turn  out  and  get  into  another  bondkara,  the 
bench  of  which  is  perhaps  tied  at  a  difl"erent  angle  from  the  last.  The 
roads,  however,  with  the  exception  of  one  or  two  sandy  stages,  are  excellent 
from  Abo  to  within  fifty  miles  of  St.  Petersburg,  and  ten  miles  an  hour 
may  be  accomplished  ;  but  it  will  take  a  great  deal  of  patience,  and  all  the 
traveller's  muscle  and  nerve,  to  get  over  these  last  fifty  miles.  Verst-posts 
are  erected  along  the  roads,  and  the  distance  to  each  town  is  inscribed  on 
them.  In  winter  there  is  a  regular  road  across  the  Gulf  of  Bothnia  to 
Sweden;  and  also  between  Helsingfors  and  Revel.  In  March,  1809, 
Barclay  de  Tolly  crossed  over  with  a  division  of  the  Russian  army  from 
Wasii  to  Umea  in  Sweden. 

One  great  advantage  in  Finland  is  that  the  traveller  is  not  obliged  to  send 
on  a  courier.  Post-horses,  supplied  by  the  neighbouring  farmers,  are  always 
in  readiness  at  the  stations ;  and  so  far  from  there  being  any  delay,  half 
a  dozen  Finlanders  will  frequently  be  found  quarrelling  for  the  honour 
of  earning  copecks,  and  displaying  their  respective  ponies  to  the  best 
advantage^in  order  to  procure  a  selection  in  their  favour;  and,  generally 
speaking,  by  the  time  the  traveller  has  written  his  name,  &c.,  in  the  dag- 
hok,  and  paid  the  boy  who  takes  back  the  horses,  everything  will  be  found 
in  readiness  for  a  fresh  start. 

The  price  of  post-horses  is  much  lower  than  either  in  Norway  or  Sweden, 
being  2  silver  coi^cks  for  each  horse  per  verst.  But  on  quitting  Abo. 
Helsingfors,  Lovisa,  Frederickshamn,  and  Wyborg,  it  is  4  silver  coiDccks 
per  verst  for  each  horse  for  the  first  stage.  The  boy  or  man  who  drives 
is  amply  satisfied  with  about  6  or  7  copecks  per  post,  which  may  be  taken 
on  the  average  at  about  15  versts.  Travelling  with  two  horses,  the  entire 
expense  does  not  exceed  4c?.  i^er  English  mile.  Between  AVyborg  and 
St,  Petersburg  the  expense  is  somewhat  greater,  as  the  traveller  has  to  pay 


382        ^,— Travelling.     1, —General  View  of  Finland,       Sect.  IV. 

11  silver  ruble  for  a  padarojna,  and  the  drivers  expect  more  in  the 
neighl)ourhood  of  the  capital ;  but  even  then  the  cxi)ense  of  actual  travelling 
throughout  the  whole  extent  of  Finland  will  not,  on  the  avera^re,  exceed 
5(/.  per  English  mile. 

The  regular  charge  for  the  oj^eration  of  "  smearing,"  as  it  is  pronounced 
(though  somewhat  differently  si^elt),  is  6  copecks,  and   travellers  should 
on  no  account  omit  having  it  carefully  done  under  their  own  inspection 
every  morning  before  starting.      The  harness  is  so  made  as  never  to  be 
detached  from  the  carriage  when  the  horses  are  changed.     The  traces  are 
always  of  rope,  as  is  not  unfrequently  the  greater  portion  of  the  rest  of  the 
tackle  ;  the  reins  are  not  crossed,  as  in  England,  but  each  horse  is  harnessed 
quite  distinct   from  his    fellow,  and    on   reaching  the  station  the  ponies 
slip  out  of  their  trappings,   and  another  pair,  without  even  a  bridle  or 
halter,  are  brought  out  of  the  stable  to  take  their  places.   This  indeixindent 
style  of  "putting  to"  is  at  first  somewhat  puzzling,  particularly  when  the 
road  is  hilly,  or  runs  along  the  verge  of  a  precipice,  or   the  bank  of  a 
mountain  stream.     It  is  surprising,  however,  how  soon  one  gets  accustomed 
to  the  random  travelling  over  the  wild  countries  of  the  north,  where  the 
roads  are  for  the  most  part  without  fence  or  barrier  of  any  kind,  and  where, 
in  going  down  hill,  it  is  absolutely  impossible  to  stop.     A  low  monotonous 
whistle,  on  reaching  the  top  of  a  steep  descent,  will  make  the  horses  go 
slowly  and  carefully  until    they  feel  the  carriage   begin  to  press  heaviTy 
upon  them,  and  then   away  they  go,  through  sand  and  stones,  whirling 
round  corners  like  the  wind,  until  they  reach  the  level  ground,  or,  if  the 
road  ascends  again,  they  continue  their"  headlong  six'ed  to  the  summit  of 
the  next  hill.     It  is  quite  useless  to  pull,  as  the  bits  are  of  the  lightest 
description,  and   their  mouths   seem   quite   insensible  to  all  the  driver's 
efforts.     They  never  stumble,  and  will  generally  gallop  for  versts  without 
betraying  any  symptoms  of  distress.     The  posting  being  so  economical,  it 
will  be  no  very  great  exi)ense  to  pay  the  boys  well,  and  twopence  \^v  stage 
will  be  considered  very  handsome  :   some  i^ersons  pay  only  one  penny. 
As  soon  as  the  traveller  arrives  at  a  station,  he  should  call  lustily  for  horses 
(in  Swedish,  hiistar),  adding  as  many  words  in  that  language  signifying 
"make  haste,"  as  he  can— thus,  strax,  .mart,  and  skijnda,  all  meaning 
the  same  thing,  will  be  found  of  the  greatest  possible  utility.     The  tourist 
must  then  march  into  the  j)ost-liouse,  and  ask  for  the  dag-hok^  in  which 
every  traveller   must  write   his  name,  the   number  of   horses   he  wants, 
whence  he  comes,  whither  he  is  going,  and  what,  if  any,  complaints  he  has 
to  make  :  all  the  columns  are  headed  with  the  requisite  explanations  in 
Russian.     Save  when  posting  in  one's  own  carriage,  it  will  not  be  possible 
to  keep  pace  with  persons  travelling  in  carrioles. 


7. — General  View^  of  Finland. 

The  sea-coast  of  Finland  presents  throughout  its  entire  extent  the  same 
succession  of  fiords  and  rocky  headlands  which  encircle  the  whole  seaward 
frontier  of  Sweden  and  Norway;  but  the  dimensions  of  the  fiords  of 
Finland  are  ftir  more  limited  than  those  to  the  west  of  the  Gulf  of  Bothnia, 
seldom  exceeding  a  few  miles  in  extent,  although  their  mouths  contain  an 
equal  number  of  islands ;  some  of  which,  as  the  isles  of  Svvealjorir,  have 
been  converted  into  fortresses  of  great  strength.     The  interior  of  Finland 


Finland. 


1. — General  View  of  Finland. 


383 


is  intersected  and  broken  uj)  by  a  vast  number  of  inland  lakes,  shooting 
out  their  winding  arms  and  branches  in  all  directions;  which,  while  they 
offer  the  greatest  facilities  for  internal  navigation,  render  land  traveUing 
circuitous  and  difficult.  Many  of  the  high  roads  pass  over  islands  on  these 
lakes,  the  natural  strength  of  whose  situation  has  been  taken  advantage  of 
to  cover  them  with  batteries. 

There  is  a  most  striking  difference  between  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Finnish  provinces  to  the  west  and  those  to  the  east  of  Wyborg,  more 
recently  severed  from  Sweden,  whose  customs  and  manners,  and  even 
language,  they  had  almost  universally  adopted.  The  Finlanders  along  the 
coast  of  the  Gulf  of  Bothnia  scarcely  present  any  marked  distinction  from 
the  people  on  the  opposite  shore  of  the  Baltic  ;  but  the  same  good-humoured 
faces,  and  apparent  anxiety  to  please,  diminish  in  a  very  perceptible  ratio 
as  you  advance  further  inland.  Nearly  the  same  dress,  both  of  men  and 
women,  and  the  readiness  with  which  they  all  spealv  Swedish,  make  the 
traveller  almost  forget  that  he  is  in  a  land  that  owns  the  sovereignty  of 
the  Tsar.  Beyond  Wyborg  the  traveller  is  suddenly  thrown  among 
a  strange  peojile:  beards  become  almost  universal,  from  the  ]~iost-master  to 
the  driver — sheepskins  are  worn,  and  low-crowned  hats  with  a  profusion 
of  buckles;  the  loose  trowsers  are  tucked  into  the  boots.  Swedish  is 
scarcely  understood,  and  dollars  and  skillings  are  no  longer  current.  The 
road  becomes  level,  and  wide  plains  spread  their  monotonous  extent  on  all 
sides ;  the  villages,  formed  of  a  long  straight  row  of  wooden  cottages, 
lining  the  road  on  either  side  with  their  gable-ends,  are  all  built  exactly 
alike,  and  all  still  and  silent,  witli  scarce  a  living  being  to  be  seen,  except 
a  few  melancholy-looking  children  and  pigs — the  latter  certainly  curiosities 
in  their  way,  attenuated,  half-starved  looking  animals,  with  shai-p-i)ointed 
snouts. 

The  living  in  Finland  is  very  tolerable,  though  certainly  by  no  means 
luxurious :  capercailzie,  black-cock,  hazel-grouse,  and  all  sorts  of  fish  are 
to  be  had  in  abundance  during  eight  months  of  the  year.  When  game  is 
not  in  season,  the  tourist  is  strongly  recommended  to  try  the  Finnish  veal, 
which  is  most  excellent,  and  equal  to  any  fed  in  England ;  the  beef,  on  the 
other  hand,  is  miserable,  lean,  and  tasteless.    ' 

Good  Bavarian  beer  is  to  be  had  throughout  the  country. 


ROUTE. 


ROUTE  55. 

STOCKHOLM    TO    WYBORG,    BY    ABO   AND 
HELSINGFORS. 

Finland  may  be  reached  from  Lubeck 
by  steamer  once  a  week  to  Helsingfors. 
Fare  30  rs.  The  most  interesting  route 
is  by  Gottenburg,  and  thence  to  Stock- 
holm, by  rail  or  canal.  Passports  must 
be  vis^d  by  Eussian  consul  at  Stock- 
holm before  applying  for  a  passage. 
Fare  to  Helsingfors  13  rubles,  not 
inclusive  of  living.  Steamers  leave 
Stockholm  every  Tuesday  morning  for 
Abo,  Helsingfors,  Wyborg,  and  St. 
Petersburg,  passing  round  the  Aland 
islands  at  noon. 

1.  Aland  islands  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Gulfs  of  Bothnia  and  Finland.  The 
inhabitants  (16,000)  are  principally 
sailors.  The  ruins  of  the  fortress  of 
Bomarsund,  destroyed  by  an  Anglo- 
French  squadron  in  1854,  are  situated 
on  the  largest  island  of  the  group.  They 
will  not  be  seen  from  the  steamer. 

2.  Abo.  „ 

The  town  of  Abo  is  reached  at  about 
7  P.M.  {Inn :  The  Society's  House,  on 
the  Quay,  the  best.)  ^ 

On  arriving  off  the  Aurajoki,  the  Abo 
river,  large  vessels  remain  there  and 
discharge  their  cargoes.  The  steamer, 
drawing  but  little  water,  proceeds  at 
once  to  the  town.  On  the  hill  near 
the  entrance  of  the  river,  which  is  de- 
fended  by  the  fort  of  Abohus,  now  a 
prison,  is  the  village  of  Boxholm,  with 
its  red  painted  houses,  principally  in- 
habited by  tradesmen  and  fishermen. 

The  first  view  of  Aho  (pronounced 
Obo)  is  fine :  its  old  castle  stands 
full   before   you,   with  the  remnant 


of  its  massive  tower,  that  braved  for 
centuries  the  assaults  of  time  and  the 
elements,  while  on  the  height  beyond 
is  seen  the  far-famed  observatory,  now 
used  as  a  navigation  school.  Entering 
the  river  on  which  Abo  is  buUt,  the 
steamer  anchors  close  to  the  Society's 
House,  and  the  deck  is  soon  crowded 
with  customs  officers,  by  whom  the 
luggage  of  the  passengers  is  searched. 
The  passports  are  examined. 

The  streets  of  Abo  appear  at  first 
enormously  wide,  though  they  by  no 
means  exceed  the  usual  dimensions  of 
Russian  towns;  but  the  low  stylo  of 
buildiog,  almost  universal  in  this  town, 
and  the  number  of  sites  at  present  un- 
occupied by  houses,  joined  to  the  soli- 
tary appearance  of  its  almost  deserted 
thoroughfares,  give  an  air  of  desolation 
to  the  whole  place.  The  glory  of  Abo 
has  indeed  departed.  It  had  once  a 
flourishing  port  and  a  well-attended 
university — its  trade  is  now  inconsider- 
able, and  its  university  is  removed  to 
Helsingfors,  the  capital  of  Finland.  A 
destructive  fire,  the  ravages  of  which 
are  even  now  not  fully  repaired,  gave 
the  final  blow  to  its  already  sinking 
fortunes. 

This  fearful  conflagration,  which  took 
place  4  Sept.  1827,  consumed  nearly 
the  whole  city,  including  the  univer- 
sity and  its  valuable  library,  and 
other  public  buildings.  The  fire  raged 
for  two  whole  days,  and  was  not  ex- 
tinguished until  786  houses,  out  of 
1100,  were  a  mass  of  blackened  ruins. 
When  the  town  was  rebuilt,  the  public 
edifices,  as  well  as  the  houses,  were 
placed  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  each  other,  and  the  town  now 
covers  as  much  ground  as  Dresden, 


;*^««iiS«tiiWte.'iS^i»Ka^ 


386 


Bouie  55. — Abo — Helsing/ors. 


Sect.  IV. 


^hou.Q:li  its  inhabitants  do  not  exceed 
20,000.  Abo  is  the  most  ancient  city 
in  Finland ;  its  history  being  co-existent 
with  the  reign  of  Eric  the  Saint,  that  is 
from  1157-llGO,  the  period  at  which 
Christianity  was  first  introduced  into 
this  wild  and  cold  region.  The  castle 
is  as  ancient  as  the  town,  and  arrested 
more  than  once  the  onward  inarch  of 
the  Kussian  armies.  It  was  in  the 
dungeons  of  this  building  that  Eric 
XIV.  was  imprisoned  previous  to  his 
death,  which  took  place  some  time 
afterwards  at  Orbyhus.  The  castle  is 
now  used  as  a  prison,  and  is  garrisoned 
by  half  a  battalion  of  infantry. 

The  Cathedral  is  also  higlily  inte- 
resting, not  liowever  on  acoount  of  its 
external  appearance,  which  is  coarse  and 
heavy,  but  for  the  architectural  struc- 
ture of  its  interior,  which  is  of  tliree 
epochs.  It  is  more  particularly  worthy 
of  interest  from  its  having  been  the  cradle 
of  Christianity  in  Finland — iiere  the 
first  episcopal  chair  was  instituted,  and 
for  centuries  the  first  families  were 
buried.  The  vaults  of  the  cliapels  are 
filled  with  their  remains,  and  some  of 
the  monuments  are  not  unworthy  of 
attention.  On  one  of  them  is  an  epitaph 
to  Catharina  Monsdotter,  a  girl  taken 
from  the  ranks  of  the  people  by  Eric 
XIV.,  and  who,  after  having  worn  the 
Swedish  diadem,  returned  to  Finland 
and  died  in  obscurity,  while  her  royal 
husband  ended  his  clays  in  a  prison.  In 
the  same  chapel,  and  at  the  end  of  it,  are 
two  statues  in  white  marble,  the  size 
of  life,  standing  on  a  sarcophagus,  sup- 
ported by  columns  of  black  mar])le ;  these 
arc  the  wealthy  and  powerful  Clas  Tott, 
grancison  of  Eric  XIV.,  and  his  wife. 
The  latter  seems  to  have  had  a  wish  to 
perpetuate  her  admiration  for  a  hand- 
some toilette,  for  she  is  decked  out 
with  necklace  and  bracelets  as  if  for 
a  wedding.  In  a  crypt  under  this 
monument  lie  the  remains  of  Queen 
Christina  of  Sweden.  In  another 
chapel  is  the  monument  of  Stalhandsk, 
one  of  the  generals,  and,  we  may  add, 
heroes,  of  the  Thirty  Years'  War. 
There  is  also  a  monument  to  Cock- 
burn,  a  Scotchman,  who  served  in  the 
wars  of  Charles  XII.  The  fire  of 
1827  completely  gutted  this  church,  and 


Finland.  Boufc  b^.^Sweaborg—Eetsingfors, 


m 


not  only  were  the  altar  and  organ  de- 
stroyed, but  even  the  bells  were  melted 
by  the  devouring  element.  Subscrip- 
tions have  restored  the  cathedral,  and  a 
patriotic  Finlander,  a  baker  by  trade, 
who  had  amassed  about  2500/.  in  his 
business,  and  was  without  any  near  re- 
lative, left  that  sum  to  purchase  an  organ 
at  his  death.  Effect  was  given  to  his 
wishes,  and  an  organ  of  5000  pipes,  the 
largest  in  the  North,  now  raises  its  deco- 
rated and  painted  head  nearly  to  the  roof 
of  the  building.  The  church  contains 
several  frescoes  by  Ekman,  a  Finlander. 
On  the  top  of  the  granite  steps  which 
lead  up  to  the  cathedral,  is  an  old 
rusty  ring,  to  wiiich  oftenders  used  to 
be  attached  and  made  to  do  penance. 
A  fctatue  of  Professor  Purthan  stands 
near  the  cathedral.  There  is  also  a 
gnmite  tombstone  over  his  grave  in 
the  ch.-yard. 

Gustavus  Adolphus  founded  an  aca- 
demy here  in  1G30,  which  Christina 
subsequently  elevated  into  a  university. 
Abo  is  distinguished  by  a  treaty,  being 
the  spot  cm  which  the  relations  between 
Russia  and  Sweden  were  settled  in  174: J. 
Here,  tcx),  Alexander  and  Bernadottc 
concludecl  tliat  treaty  which  arrayed 
Sweden  against  France. 

o.  Hklsingfors. 

The  steamer  will  reach  Ilelsingfors 
the  day  on  which  it  leaves  Abo.  after 
passing  through  most  singular  and  inte- 
resting coast  scenery  ;  it  may,  however, 
be  sunmied  up  in  three  words,  sen, 
granite,  firs, — yet  these  are  so  con- 
stantly varied  in  their  position  and  cir- 
cumstances that  the  effect  cannot  be  said 
to  be  monotonous.  The  sea,  in  some  in- 
stances, is  as  still  as  an  iidand  lake,  at 
others  it  may  be  heard  beating  furiously 
against  the  granite  rocks  to  seaward  ; 
few  vessels  are  visible,  and  those  are 
principally  very  small  craft,  carrying 
wood  or  fish  from  the  islands  to  the 
main  land.  The  steamer  passes  close 
to  the  ruins  of  the  forts  at  Hango  Head. 

The  approach  to  Helsingfors  by 
water  is  exceedingly  striking.  The  har- 
bour is  very  extensive  and  well  protected 
by  tlie  works  and  fortress  of  Sweahorg  : 
these  are  built  on  7  islands,  and  from 
the  extent  of  the  fortifications,  and  the 


strength  of  their  position,  have  been 
termed  the  Gibraltar  of  the  North.  The 
original  fortress  was  built  by  Count 
Ehrenswerd,  High- Admiral  of  Sweden, 
whose  dying  request  was  that  he  should 
1x5  buried  there ;  on  his  monument  is 
the  following  inscription  : — "  On  this 
spot,  and  surrounded  by  his  own  work, 
repose  the  remains  of  the  Count  Au- 
guste  Ehrenswerd." — This  fortress  was 
the  last  rampart  of  Sweden  against  the 
Eussians,  and  the  rallying  point  of  her 
troops  and  fleet.  On  the  6th  of  March, 
1808,  it  was  besieged  by  the  Russians, 
and  on  the  6th  of  April  Adm.  Cron- 
stedt,  who  defended  the  place  with 
6000  men  and  2  frigates,  concluded  an 
armistice  on  condition  that  he  would 
deliver  up  the  fortress,  with  its  garrison, 
its  ships,  and  its  plentiful  munitions  of 
war,  provided  he  had  not  received  by 
the  3rd  of  May  a  reinforcement  of  at 
least  5  ships-of-the-line ;  and  as  the 
reinforcement  never  arrived,  the  fortress 
was  delivered  to  Gen.  Suchtelen  on  the 
day  stipulated.  The  secret  motives  of 
Adm.  Cronstedt's  conduct  have  never 
been  satisfactorily  explained.  It  has 
been  affirmed  on  the  one  hand  that 
^  the  officers  had  become  demoralised  in 
'  courage  by  the  sight  of  the  sufferings 
to  which  their  families  were  exposed,  as 
weU  as  by  the  news  of  the  desperate  con- 
dition of  Finland  and  Sweden  which 
Suchtelen  took  good  care  to  forward  to 
them ;  on  the  other  hand,  Adm.  Cron- 
stedt  is  directly  accused  of  having  been 
bribed  by  the  Russians.  The  latter 
supposition  has  never  been  proved. 
After  the  capitulation  Adm.  Cronstedt 
retired  to  a  small  estate  which  he  had 
always  possessed,  and  where  he  lived 
honoured  and  esteemed  by  his  neigh- 
bours until  his  death,  which  took  place 
about  10  years  later.  He  never  entered 
the  service  of  Russia,  nor  did  he  receive 
any  marks  of  Imperial  approval ;  and 
he  died  without  leaving  any  fortune. 
Sweaborg  was  bombarded  by  an  Anglo- 
French  squadron  in  August,  1855. 

It  is  not  always  that  a  traveller  is  per- 
mitted to  visit  the  Fortress  of  Sweaborg 
without  previously  having  obtained  a 
ticket  from  the  Police-office  or  the  Go- 
vernor-General. The  forts  are,  how- 
ever, well  worth  seeing,  and  2  diminu- 

Jiussiu — 1868. 


tive  steamers  leave  every  half-hour 
alternately  from  the  town  and  forts, 
the  fare  being  10  copeks. 

These  steamers  can  be  hired  at  the 
rate  of  3  rubles  per  hour  by  visitors 
desirous  of  making  an  excursion 
amongst  the  islands  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Helsingfors,  in  the  so-called 
^'Skarg&rd." 

Helsingfors. — Hotels:  The  Scxjiety 
House,  in  the  Great  Square,  and 
Kleineh's  Hotel,  both  facing  the  har- 
bour and  close  to  the  landing-place. 
The  former  has  been  rebuilt  and  mo- 
dernised, and  is  preferable.  The  best 
room  is  1  ruble  per  diem. 

/^^eamers.— Every  Sunday  morning 
to  Abo  and  Stockholm,  to  Wyborg  and 
St.  Petersburg ;  every  Monday  morning 
to  Reval  and  St.  Petersburg  ;  every 
Tuesday  morning  to  Wyborg  and  St. 
Petersburg;  every  Thursday  morning 
to  Wyborg  and  St.  Petersburg,  to  Abo 
and  Stockholm.  Once  a  week  to  Abo, 
Bjormborg,  Wasa,  and  Uleaborg,  by 
Bothnian  steamers. 

The  town  of  Helsingfors  is,  his- 
torically speaking,  comparatively  of 
modem  creation,  having  been  founded 
by  Gustavus  Wasa  in  the  16th  centy.  : 
its  name  came  from  a  colony  of  the 
province  of  Helsingland,  which  had 
been  established  in  the  neighbourhood 
for  several  centuries.  In  1639,  how- 
ever, the  town  changed  its  site,  and  the 
inhabitants  moved  their  wooden  houses 
nearer  the  sea-shore ;  and  on  the  spot 
where  Helsingfors  now  stands.  War, 
plague,  famine,  and  fire  ravaged  it, 
each  in  its  turn,  and  the  end  of  a  cen- 
tury found  it  with  a  population  of  only 
5000  souls ;  at  the  present  moment  it 
numbers  25,000,  exclusive  of  the  garri- 
s<m.  The  Russians  have  greatly  aug- 
mented and  improved  Helsingfors  since 
it  came  into  their  possession,  more 
particularly  since  the  year  1819,  when 
it  became  the  capital  of  Finland;  the 
removal  to  it  of  the  University  of  Abo, 
and  the  Senate,  after  the  conflagration 
of  that  town  in  1827,  also  materially 
increased  its  importance.  The  streets 
are  long,  large,  and  laid  out  at  right 

T 


388 


Boute  55. — Tavdstehus: 


Sect.  IV. 


angles,  as  in  most  Russian  towns.  Two 
sides  of  the  principal  square  are  occu- 
pied by  the  Senate-house  and  Univer- 
sity respectively;  these  are  two  very 
handsome  buildings,  and  on  the  eastern 
side  is  a  fine  church,  which,  from  its 
position  and  size,  is  a  very  splendid 
object.  The  houses  arc  large  and  regu- 
lar, and  a  handsome  granite  quay  ex- 
tends along  the  water  in  front  of  the 
town.  Amongst  the  objects  worthy  of 
attention  is  the  Senate-house.  The  cham- 
bers in  which  the  various  branches  of 
the  assembly  meet  for  the  ordinary 
purposes  of  business  are  simple,  and 
furnished  in  good  taste.  The  large 
hall,  intended  for  the  meeting  of  the 
senate  on  great  occasions,  contains  a 
splendid  throne  for  the  emperor,  who 
twice  presided  in  person;  it  is  hung 
with  portraits  of  former  governors  of 
Finland.  The  remains  of  the  Library, 
saved  from  the  fire  of  Abo,  is  at  present 
preserved  in  this  building.  It  consists 
of  about  100,000  volumes.  An  exten- 
sive collection  of  historical  documents, 
relating  to  the  history  of  Finland,  un- 
fortunately fell  a  prey  to  the  flames. 

In  the  University,  which  has  5  facul- 
ties and  31  professors,  may  be  seen  the 
act  which  incorporated  the  University  of 
Abo;  it  is  signed  by  the  illustrious  Axel 
Oxenstierna,  his  brother  Gabriel,  and 
Marshal  Jacques  de  la  Gardie.  This  was 
the  oldest  university  in  Russia,  having 
been  founded  by  Christina  in  1630. 
Printing  was  not  introduced  into  Fin- 
land until  1641,  11  years  after  the  uni- 
versity was  established,  when  Wald,  a 
Swedish  printer,  made  a  contract  with 
the  rector,  and  established  himself  at 
Abo.  His  salary  was  1 01.  a  year,  besides 
which  he  received  18d.  a  sheet :  and  so 
small  was  his  set  of  types,  that  he  could 
only  set  up  half  a  sheet  at  a  time.  The 
library,  at  this  period,  contained  21 
volumes  and  a  globe.  There  are  seve- 
ral agreeable  walks  in  the  neighbour- 
liood  of  Helsingfors;  amongst  them 
may  be  cited  that  to  the  forests  of 
Standsvik,  the  solitary  coast  near  Mai- 
land,  and  the  verdant  gardens  of 
Traeskenda,  belonging  to  Mrs.  Ka- 
ramzin. 

The  Museum  of  the  University  con- 


Finland.  Boute  55. — Borgd — LovisOr—Ahorrfors. 


389 


tains  an  extensive  collection  of  minerals, 
and  objects  of  natural  history:  it  is 
particularly  rich  in  specimens  of  the 
zoology  of  Finland. 

The  New  Church  is  in  the  form  of  a 
Greek  cross  :  each  side  is  terminated 
by  a  handsome  portico  of  Corinthian 
columns,  and  a  dome  rises  in  the  centre. 
It  stands  on  a  large  mass  of  granite, 
and  may  be  seen  some  miles  from  the 
town. 

The  Assemhhj-Rooms  on  the  Espla- 
nade, tlie  barracks,  and  hospitals  arc 
fine  buildings.  It  will  be  remarked 
that  in  Helsingfors  the  native  granite 
rock  frequently  forms  the  foundation 
of  these  extensive  edifices. 

The  Botanical  Garden,  about  a  mile 
from  the  town,  is  used  as  a  public 
promenade,  and  commands  a  view  of 
the  surrounding  country. 

A  fine  view  of  the  town  may  also  be 
obtained  from  the  Observatory,  which 
stands  on  an  eminence.  It  is  fitted 
up  with  requisite  instruments,  and  a 
series  of  important  magnetic  and  astro- 
nomical experiments  are  being  carried 
out  in  it. 

A  bathing-house,  and  an  establish- 
ment for  the  manufacture  of  minenal' 
waters,  have  been  buiU  near  the  town. 

A  magnificent  and  beautifully  deco- 
rated theatre  was  completed  in  1866, 
built  after  the  model  of  the  Dresden 
Opera  House,  in  which  performances 
are  conducted  in  the  Swedish  language 
four  times  a  week. 

On  entering  the  harbour  of  Helsing- 
fors the  traveller  will  observe  an  ele- 
gant and  colossal  Greek  Church,  with 
gilded  spire,  situated  on  an  imposing 
eminence  close  to  the  sea.  The  paint- 
ing in  the  interior  of  this  church  is 
very  good,  and  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

4.  Tavastehus. — A  rly.  unites  Hel- 
singfors with  the  town  of  Tavastehus, 
80  m.  distant  in  the  interior  of  the 
country.  Fare  3  rubles.  Tavastehus 
is  well  worth  visiting  in  summer  time, 
as  it  is  most  picturesquely  situated,  and 
gives  a  good  idea  of  Finnish  lake- 
scenery.  Small  government  steamboats 
go  once  or  twice  a  week  from  Tavastehus 
up  the  river  and  lakes  to  Tammer- 


fors,  the  Manchester  of  Finland,  founded 
1779,  where  a  good  number  of  English- 
men are  employed  in  cotton-spinning. 
The  waterfalls  of  Tammerfors,  by  which 
some  of  the  cotton  and  flax-mills  are 
worked,  are  very  grand.  Veiy  good 
posting  hence  into  the  interior.  The 
price  of  post-horses  is  2.^  copeks  per 
verst,  and  4  copeks  on  leaving  towns. 

,5.  BorgI. — Travellers  may  proceed 
from  Helsingfors  to  Wyborg  by  an 
excellent  road  along  the  coast,  passing 
through  the  towns  of  Borgo,  Lovisa, 
Htigfors,  and  Fredriksliamn. 

Borgo  is  a  town  of  3000  Inhab.,  and 
the  seat  of  a  bishopric.  It  is  of  con- 
siderable historical  celebrity,  having 
been  the  place  of  meeting  of  the  Diet 
of  Finland  in  1809. 

The  poet  Runeberg  resides  here. 

HenriJisdal,  15  v. 
Sibbo,  15^. 
Norr  Vrekosldj  12.]. 
Illby,  16. 
Torsky,  13J. 

C.  Levis  A,  60  versts  from  Borgo. 
One  of  its  streets  descends  to  the  very 
sea-shore,  while  otliers  are  arranged  in 
a  kind  of  amphitheatre  on  the  side  of  a 
hill.  Lovisa  was  once  a  frontier  post 
of  the  Swedes,  but  its  importance 
ceased  when  these  provinces  were  ceded 
to  Russia.  Some  remains  of  its  former 
defences  are  yet  to  bo  seen.  Two  or 
three  massive  walls  with  their  embra- 
sures, even  now  almost  perfect,  seem  at 
a  distance  to  command  the  road  which 
approaches  the  town.  The  country 
beyond  this  is  wild  enough :  no  traces 
of  cultivation  can  be  discerned,  and  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach  it  is  one 
barren  heath,  with  here  and  there  a 
few  boulder-stones,  and  fir-trees  thinly 
scattered  among  the  heather.  The 
road,  however,  is  excellent,  hard,  and 
smooth,  and  full  of  picturesque  wind- 
ings :  and  the  traveller  will  be  fairly 
hurled  along  at  a  rapid  pace.  Nervous 
people  have  no  business  to  travel  in 
Finland ;  the  horses,  though  small,  are 
full  of  life,  and  know  of  no  other  pace 
than  the  gallop,  whether  it  is  up  or 
dovm  hill.    The  traveller  will,  either 


on  land  or  sea,  thus  speed  on  his  way 
through  Finland,  and  frequently  with- 
out meeting  one  human  being  from  one 
station  to  the  next;  the  dark  pines 
and  massive  boulder-stones  (many  of  a 
magnitude  which  will  astonish  the 
traveller  or  any  geologist  who  has  not 
traversed  the  country),  the  red  verst- 
posts  and  a  ragged  scanty  flock  are 
the  only  objects  that  meet  the  eye.  In 
some  places  partial  clearings,  princi- 
pally made  by  fire,  add  one  new  feature 
to  the  landscape ;  and  the  charred  and 
blackened  trunks  of  the  larger  trees, 
which  have  resisted  the  power  of  the 
flames,  standing  like  gaunt  sentinels 
in  the  black  space  around  them,  con- 
trast strongly  with  the  dark  green  of 
the  living  pines  and  the  bright  lichens 
of  the  boulder-stones  scattered  around 
them :  many  of  these  huge  stones  arise 
from  the  earth  in  single  masses,  and  it 
was  from  one  of  these  that  the  Alex- 
ander pillar  in  St.  Petersburg  was 
wrought.  Other  boulders  may  be  seen 
heaped  up  one  on  the  other  in  strange 
confusion  and  fantastic  shapes,  exactly 
as  they  lay  when  washed  there  by  the 
deluge.  The  drive  between  Lovisa 
and  the  next  station  is  very  beautiful, 
and  hill  and  vale  are  passed,  with 
scarcely  time  to  look  down  on  the 
torrent  that  foams  and  boils  below  in 
its  narrow  and  rocky  bed,  as  the  traveller 
dashes  over  the  narrow  arch  that  spans 
each  yawning  chasm. 

Aborrfors,  16  v.  The  position  of  this 
village  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque 
on  the  road.  Approaching  it  from 
Lovisa,  there  is  a  broad  stream  winding 
along  a  valley,  immediately  beyond 
which  rises  a  hill  of  considerable  eleva- 
tion ;  its  sides  and  summit  are  covered 
with  red  cottages,  and  around  them  is 
a  forest  with  its  giant  boulders  looking 
like  specks  on  the  dark  green  mantle. 

Broby,  20  v.  Between  this  and  the 
next  station,  the  fortress  which  formerly 
marked  the  frontier  of  Sweden,  and 
was  then  guarded  with  the  most  jealous 
care,  is  passed.  Its  scarped  sides  and 
ditches  still  remain ;  but  the  place  is, 
in  other  respects,  totally  neglected,  and 
even    uninhabited.     Shortly  after,  a 

T  2 


390 


Boiife  55. — Hogfors — Fredrikshamn — Wyhorg.     Sect.  IV. 


Finland. 


Boute  55. — Falls  of  Inrntra, 


391 


turn  in  the  road  will  bring  the  traveller 
ill  sight  of  a  beautiful  waterfall  of  the 
river  Kymen,  near  Hogfors ;  as  such 
it  would  be  considered  by  many  ;  but 
to  travellers  who  are  fresh  from  that  of 
Trollhattan,  or  those  of  Italy,  its  beau- 
ties will  appear  somewhat  questionable. 
This  stage  is  hilly ;  the  road,  however, 
good. 

Hdgfors,  14  v.  The  next  stage  is 
long,  and  almost  the  whole  way  through 
one  unbroken  pine  forest,  the  trees 
coming  in  many  places  quite  down  to 
the  edge  of  tlie  road ;  the  whole  country 
being  covered  with  stupendous  boulder- 
stones,  many  of  them  far  larger  than 
the  one  which  forms  the  base  of  the 
celebrated  statue  of  Peter  the  Great 
at  St.  Petersburg.  In  some  places  the 
rock  pierces  through  its  thin  covering 
of  earth  and  vegetable  matter,  and 
spreads  its  hard  surface,  uncovered  by 
shrub  or  plant,  over  a  space  of  many 
square  yards.  At  length  the  view 
opens,  and  the  fortress  of  Fredrikshamn 
is  seen  on  the  opposite  side  of  an  arm 
of  the  sea,  which  runs  some  miles  in- 
land, and  round  the  shores  of  which 
the  road  winds  its  way. 

7.  Fredrikshamn,  20  v.  The  works 
here  w^e  constructed  on  Vauban's 
principle ;  but,  judging  by  the  neg- 
lected aspect  of  the  place,  Russia  has 
very  little  use  for  them.  Originally  it 
was  a  place  of  great  strength,  and  in- 
accessible on  2  sides;  the  approaches 
are  covered  and  protected  by  field- 
works  to  a  considerable  distance,  and 
the  only  entrance  to  the  town,  which 
looks  as  deserted  as  the  fortifications, 
is  by  a  narrow  passage  winding  round 
the  angle  of  a  bastion,  enfiladed  in 
every  direction  by  the  works  from  the 
body  of  the  place.  The  post-house 
seems  to  have  escaped  the  general  ruin, 
being  one  of  the  best  on  the  road. 
Fredrikshamn  was,  in  former  days,  the 
residence  of  the  governor  of  the  pro- 
vince :  a  massive  tower,  constructed  in 
the  middle  of  a  square,  overlooked  the 
whole  town,  and  from  this  every  street 
diverged  like  the  spokes  of  a  wheel. 
It  was  in  this  tower,  and  on  the  5th 
of  September,  1809,  that  the  treaty  of 


peace  was  signed,  by  which  Sweden 
surrendered  Finland  to  Russia.  A  firo 
consumed  the  tower  and  several  of  the 
streets  some  few  years  since. 

RisaJalis.  Not  far  from  hence  are 
the  granite-quarries  from  which  were 
drawn  the  monolith  columns  for  tlie 
church  of  St.  Isaac  at  St.  Petersburg. 

8.  Wyborg. —  (Hotels:  Ehrenburg's, 
recommended  ;  Society's  House.)  The 
port  of  Wyborg  is  of  great  extent,  and 
enclosed  by  2  large  islands  which  form 
as  it  were  2  natural  breakwaters.  The 
houses  are  inhabited  by  merchants, 
workmen,  and  innkeepers,  and  sur- 
rounded by  immense  quantities  of  deals, 
of  which  there  is  a  considerable  export 
trade.  Tlie  town  is  about  12  versts 
from  the  harbour,  and  at  the  end  of  a 
large  bay.  Between  the  old  lines  of 
fortification  and  the  city  flows  a  broad 
arm  of  the  sea,  in  the  midst  of  wliich 
stands  a  solitary  rock,  crowned  with  a 
fine  old  tower  of  other  days,  rearing 
its  still  proud  head,  high  and  imposing 
above  all  around  it.  It  must  in  ages 
past  have  been  a  magnificent  donjon 
keep,  and  the  shot-marks  uyKn  its  walls 
bear  witness  that  the  tide  of  battle  has 
often  raged  around  it.  Its  upper  stories 
are  now  roofless;  the  lower  ones  are 
used  as  a  prison.  The  view  of  Wyborg, 
with  its  churches  and  domes  flashing 
in  the  sun,  is  very  striking ;  but  the 
approach  to  it  by  land  is  bad;  from 
the  foot  of  the  glacis  to  the  post-house 
the  pavement  is  of  the  worst  kind.  The 
castle  of  Wyborg,  destroyed  by  fire,  and 
now  in  ruins,  was  built  in  1293,  by  the 
brave  Torkel  Knutson,  one  of  the  most 
illustrious  Swedes  mentioned  in  history. 
The  fortifications  date  from  the  15tli 
centy.  Wyborg  was  then  one  of  the 
cities  of  Finland,  and  the  seat  of  a 
bishopric.  Attacked  on  several  occa- 
sions by  the  Russians,  it  defended 
itself  with  great  bravery.  In  1710  the 
place  was  besieged  by  Peter  the  Great, 
and  taken  after  a  hard  struggle  which 
occupied  several  weeks.  The  peace  of 
1721,  known  as  the  Treaty  of  Nystadt, 
put  the  Tsar  in  definitive  possession  of 
it  and  the  neighbouring  country ;  and 
in  1745  the  Treaty  of  Abo  enlarged 


.( 


i] 


still  further  this  conquest.  For  nearly 
a  century  the  conquered  portions  of 
Finland,  distinguished  as  Gamla  Fin- 
land, or  Ancient  Finland,  were  subject 
to  the  same  regulations  in  civil  matters 
as  the  rest  of  Russia.  After  the  con- 
quest of  the  country  had  been  com- 
pleted they  were  reunited  to  the  pro- 
vinces from  which  they  had  been 
separated,  and  the  same  privileges  were 
conceded  to  them  which  Finland  had 
originally  enjoyed  imder  the  Swedes. 
W^yborg  is  now  the  chief  town  of  a 
province,  and  has  a  supteme  court  of 
justice ;  it  contains  GOOO  Inhab.,  divided 
into  Finlanders,  Russians,  Swedes,  and 
Germans. 

Baron  Nicolai's  house  and  grounds 
of  "  Mon  Repos,"  where  the  scenery  of 
Finland  is  represented  in  miniature, 
are  a  short  distance  from  the  town. 

From  Wyborg  an  excursion  should 
be  made  to  the  magnificent  falls  of 
Imatra,  on  the  Vuox  river,  59  v.  from 
Wyborg.  The  scenery  attracts  nume- 
rous visitors  from  St.  Petersburg.  This 
is  also  the  resort  of  fishermen.  Trout 
abound  in  the  lakes  and  rivers  of  Fin- 
land, and  the  falls  of  Imatra  afford 
excellent  siwrt.  Visitors  should  in- 
quire for  a  local  fisherman,  who  for  GO 
copeks  will  provide  an  excellent  day's 
fishing.      The    fish    and  the   current 


being  very  powerful,  the  strongest  gut 
should  be  used  and  the  line  consider- 
ably lengthened.  Up  to  the  middle  of 
July  20  and  30  lbs.  of  fish  may  be  killed 
in  a  day.  Large  red  palmers  are  a 
good  bait.  The  fishing  throughout 
Finland  is  very  good,  and  will  no  doubt 
attract  many  anglers  as  soon  as  Norway 
is  thoroughly  overrun.  Accommodation 
may  be  had  at  the  Post-house  of  Imatra, 
but  provisions  should  be  brought  from 
Wyborg.  The  falls  of  Vallin-Koski,  a 
short  distance  beyond  those  of  Imatra, 
are  inferior  in  grandeur,  but  far  more 
picturesque. 

The  Canal  and  Lake  of  Saima,  which 
unite  the  Gulf  of  Finland  with  the 
Lake  of  Ladoga,  should  also  be  visited 
from  Wyborg,  as  much  for  the  beauty 
of  the  scenery  as  for  the  sake  of  inspect- 
ing the  locks  and  other  works  on  the 
canal,  which  is  54  v.  long.  It  was 
opened  to  navigation  in  1856. 

From  Wyborg  St.  Petersburg  may  be 
reached  by  steamer  in  a  day.  Travel- 
lers wishing  to  see  more  of  Finland 
may  take  the  post-road  to  the  capital. 

The  next  edition  of  this  Handbook 
will  describe  a  line  of  rail  from  St. 
Petersburg  to  Helsingfors,  now  in 
course  of  construction,  and  which  will 
in  all  probability  be  pushed  on  to 
Hango-udd. 


T  3 


(    393    ) 


INDEX. 


AA. 


Aa,  river,  167. 
Ablan,  277. 

Abo,  370, 385,  j86. 

,  treaty  of,  386. 

Aborrfors,  389. 
Administration  of  the  mines, 

J29- 
Adrianople,  treaty  of,  22. 

Aghermlsh,  hill  of,  309. 
Agriculture,  school  of,  362. 
Aibar,  277. 
Ai  Petri,  Mount,  298. 
Aithidor,  promontory  of,  298, 

299,  J02. 
Aivazolsky.  residence  of,  311. 
Ai-Udaph,  mountain,  304. 
Ai-Vassili,  valley,  302. 
Akema,  255. 
Akhniet,  6. 

Ak-Kaya,  peak  of,  ?o8. 
Ak-Mechob,    Tartar    village, 

307. 
Aksai,  rivulet,  318. 

Aland,  islands  of,  285. 
Alexander    Nevski,     son    of 

Yaroslaf  II.,  4,  230. 

I.,  Emperor,  19,  74,  272. 

II.,  coronation  of,  28. 

Alexandrofski,  155. 

Alexandrov,  Stat.,  351. 

Alexis,  son  of  Michael  Ro- 
manoff, 9. 

,  son  of  Peter  the  Great, 

supposed  murder  of,  13. 

Alma,  river,  23.  ^95  ;  source 
of,  304. 

Alupka,  298. 

Alushta,  305. 

Anastasia,  6,  7.  ' 

Anda.  river,  i6t. 

Anni  destroyed  by  earthquake, 

311. 

Antonopol,  08. 
Aptekarski  OstroflF,  72. 
Ararat,  the  lesser,  323,  324. 

Mount,  324. 

Araxes,  the,  3  24. 
Archangel,  157.  158. 
Arcluvological  remains,  266. 
Arghin,  314- 

Armchair  of  Mlthridates,  31?. 
Armenian  churches  at  Kaffa, 


BATY. 

Arms  of  Russia,  6. 

Army  expenditure,  Russian, 

31. 

Arsenals : — Briansk,  244 ;  Mos- 
cow, 2CX3;  Pavlovsk,  155; 
Reval,  172;  St.  Petersburg, 
124;  Tsarsko^  Selo,  153. 

Asiatic  frontier,  329. 

Askold,  245. 

Assassins,  stronghold  of,  327. 

Astara,  326. 

Astrabad,  328. 

Astrakhan,  7,  232,  233. 

Asylum,  lunatic,  151. 

Atropatena,  ancient,  324. 

Augustov,  364. 

Augustovo,  province,  361. 

Aurajoki,  river,  385. 

Autka,  502. 

Azerbijan,  324. 

Azof,  sea  of,  270,  317. 

—  fortress,  271. 


kitchen,  226. 


B 

"  Babi,"  258. 

Bagratides,  dynasty  of,  322. 
Baikal  Lake,  329. 
Baidar,  valley  of,  295. 

gate,  296. 

Bakchisarai,  292,  293. 

Bakhraut,  270,  271. 

Baku,  323f. 

Balaclava,  289,  290. 

Balakhna,  230. 

Balbek,  valley  of,  291. 

Balta,  263. 

Banishment  of  Princess  Galit- 

zin  to  the  Crimea,  299. 
Baptism  of  Vladimir,  285. 
Bapti.smal  fountain,  248. 
Bar,  237,  238. 

of  the  Kion,  320. 

Barabinsk  Steppe,  329. 
Basil  II.,  5. 

IV.,  6. 

Baths,  Russian,  58. 

Batoum,  316. 

Battlefields    of   the  Tartars, 

2?9. 

Batliory,  Stephen,  239,  242. 
Baty,  266. 


BURJAN. 

Baty-khan,  palace  of,  309. 

Bazarchik.  295. 

Bear-shooting,  60, 

Beetroot,  cultivation  of,  246. 

Belenja,  70. 

Bells  of  Kasimof,  227. 

Moscow,  185. 

Belopolye,  245. 

Benderey,  237. 

Berdiansk,  317. 

Berdicheff,  249, 

Beretma  river,  21. 

Berestof,  364^^  365, 

Berezinsky,  29,  30. 

Berislaf,  276. 

Bespopovstchina,  215. 

Besfiarabia,  province,  236,  237. 

Biala,  364. 

Bialobzhegi,  363. 

Bialystok,  Stat.,  361. 

Bieltsi,  236. 

Biren,  Duke  of  Courland,  13. 

liobrovni  d,  363. 

Bobruisk,  365. 

Bogdan  Khmelnitsky,  259, 261  . 

Bogoslofski,  monastery,  266. 

Bologovo,  Stat.,  177. 

Bomarsund,  385. 

Bondkara,  381. 

Borgt,  389. 

Boristhenes,  247. 

Borysthenes,  274. 

Boris  Godunof,  8,  135. 

Borodino,  20. 

Bosporus,  the,  314. 

,  kingdom  of,  315. 

Bossak,  General,  338. 

Botanical  Gardens  of  Xitika, 
30?. 

Boulders,  389. 

Boyars,  council  of,  12. 

Boxholn,  385. 

Bracket's  House,  288. 

Brest-Litevski,  364. 

Briansk,  244. 

British  Cemeteries,  282,  283; 
factory,  66 ;  St.  Petersburg, 
133;  Archangel,  135. 

Broby,  389. 

Brunswick,  Princess  of,  14. 

Brur,  river,  351. 

Bug,  river,  15,  246,  263,  270, 

27?- 
Budget,  Russian,  31. 
Bulavan,  2J2. 
Burjan,  321.  j 


394 


INDEX. 


INDEX. 


395 


CALENDAR. 


Calendar  in  Russia,  80, 

Camp,  152. 

Canal,  Caspian  and  Baltic,  177  ; 

of   Eli  van,    jij ;    systems, 

229;  Volga  and  Don,  2j2. 
Cannon-foundry  on  the  Kama, 

^29. 
Casimir,  King,  241. 

the  Great,  336. 

IV.,  6. 

Caspian  Sea,  15,  2J2,  233,  270, 

325. 
Castele,  Mount,  30$. 
Castor-oil  plantation,  324. 
Cat-skins,  230. 
Catacombs    of    St.   Anthony, 

248. 
Cataract  of  Uchan-su,  302. 
Cathiirina  Mansdotter,  385. 
Catherine  1.,  i?. 

11.,  27;,  276,280. 

Cattle  grazing  of  Balta,  26j; 

trade,  237. 
Caucasus,  J19,  J20,   J2i;  tra- 
velling in,  J 19. 
Caves  ot  Ak-Kaya,  jo8. 
Caviar,  trade  in,  225,  269. 
Cemeteries,  British,  282,  28  j ; 

French,    288 ;    of    Karaim 

Jews,  29J. 
Champagne    of    St.    Daniel, 

303. 
Chancellor,   Richard,    7,  133, 

136,  138. 
Chaos  of  Lambat,  305. 
Charcoal  burning,  ?26. 
Charles  X1I„  11,  169,  237,  261. 
Charter  of  Russian  nobility, 

17. 
Chatavu,  3  30. 
Chatyrdagh,  295. 
Cheboksary,  231. 
Clierkesses,  271. 
ChemigofF,  province,  245. 
Chervinsk,  363. 
China,  3io. 
Chinovniks,  17. 
Chiriuksu,  292. 
Chudova,  Stat.,  177. 
Chuguef,  258,  259. 
Church  ceremonies,  Russian, 

•78,  79- 
Church,  Russian,  77. 
City  of  the  Seven  Gods,  309. 
Clergy,  Russian,  78. 
Climate  ot  the  Crimea,  296. 
Coalfields,  270 ;  fields  of  Gru- 

shefka,  319;  measures,  255; 

mines  of  Poland,  361. 
Cohis,  collcctiun   in   Hermit- 
age, 96,  98 ;  anicent,  258  ; 

Russian,  44,  50. 
Colchis,  ancient,  321. 
Colonies,     Gernuin,     jc8 ;    of 

Grceka,  J17;  Swiss,  313. 


Dawe,  George,  81,  207. 

Dedilova,  254. 

Demur  Kapu,  305. 

Derbend,  11. 

Derekoi,  302. 

Desnia,  river,  244. 

Devil's  Staircase,  296. 

Devlet  Ghirey,  253,  254. 

Diet,  Finland,  389. 

Diets,  366,  372. 

Diligen,  pass  of,  323. 

Dissent,  12,  215. 

Divenskaj'a,  71, 

Dniepr,   river,    15,    261,  262, 

276. 
Dniestr,    river,    14,  236,  237. 

246, 
Dobi-zyn,  363. 
])obzhykov,  363. 
Dolgorukof,  13. 
Don,  river,  232,  269,  270,  317, 

318. 
Donets,  river,  258,  259. 

,  N.,  river,  270. 

Dor  pat,  7,  164,  167. 
Doschaty,  227. 
Drissa,  2j8. 

,  river,  2  j8. 

Duuaburg,  68. 


DUNABUBG. 

Commemoration    Monument, 

176. 
Companies,  trading,  233- 
Conflagration,    Abo,    385;  of 

Elets,  268 ;  In  Orel,  256. 
Confluence  of  Bug  and  Vistula, 

363. 
Constitution  of  Finland,  372 ;  j 

Poland,    337;    Russia,    13, 

22. 
Corelia,  162. 
Corels,  161,  162. 
Corn  trade,  227. 
Cotton  mills,  221 ;  plantation, 

324;   spinning  of  Finland, 

389- 
Cossacks,  10,  246,   259,  260, 

263. 

,  Don,  2  J  2. 

Courier  service  to  Pekin,  3  30. 

Crimea,  271,  276,  292, 296;  his- 
tory of,  279,  280 ;  conquest 
of  the,  14,  15. 

Crimean  war,  23,  24. 

Crunstadt,  27,  147. 

Crown  Jewels,  83-85. 

Croy,  Duke  do,  169. 

Crypts  of  Inkermau,  291. 

Cuisine,  Russian,  53. 

Custom-houses,  51. 

Custom-house,  Polish,  363. 

Cutlery,  226. 

Cyrus,  the  ancient,  321. 

Cyta,  ancient,  321. 

Czersk,  362. 


FULLER. 

Diibeln,  Stat.,  167. 
Dtlnamunde,  fortress,  166. 
Duninovo,  363. 
Dutch  in  Russia,  255. 
Duvankoi,  Tartar  village,  292. 
Dwlna,  7. 

,  Western,  68,  166,  177, 

238. 
I>yr,  245. 
Dyurmen,  277. 


E 

Earthquakes    of    Shemakha, 

325. 

Ei,  river,  317. 

Eisk,  317. 

Ekaterinburg,  329. 

Ekatorinoslaf,  270,  271 ;  pro- 
vince, 258. 

Elaghinski  Ostroff,  72. 

Elatma,  227. 

P^lburz  mountains,  327. 

Elen-Kaya,  Cape,  314. 

Elets,  268. 

Elizavetgrad,  262. 

Eliziivetpol,  325. 

Embach  river,  168. 

Enzclli,  lake  of,  326. 

Erivan,  323. 

Kski-Krlm,  279,  308,  309. 

Esthonia,  9,  164,  165,  168, 
169. 

Estuary  of   Ingul  and    Bug, 

274- 
Etchmiadzeen,     convent     of, 

324- 
Eupatoria,  278;  castle  of,  291. 
Exportation  of  wheat,  274. 
Exports  of  Odessa,  251. 
Excavations  of  Mangup,  2^. 


GADIATCII. 


i 


Farming,  Russian,  266. 

Fasts  (church),  78. 

Fairs  of  Berdicheff,  249; 
Elizavetgrad,  262;  Jitomir, 
366;  of  Kharkofl",  260;  of 
Kremenchuk,262 ;  of  Kursk, 
257;  of  Nijnl  Novgoroi, 
222-225,  230;  of  Orel,  257  ; 
of  Poltova,  261 ;  of  Rostof, 
318;  of  Voronej,  269. 

Fedotief  village,  265. 

Finnish  tribes,  264. 

Fisheries  of  the  Don,  318. 

Forests  of  Talish,  326. 

Fortress  of  St.  Dmitri,  317; 
of  St.  Elizabeth,  262. 

Forty  Castles,  town  of,  29?. 

Fredrikshamn  fortress,  390. 

French  Cemetery,  288. 

Fuller's  earth,  291. 


279; 
312; 


Gadiatch,  261. 

Gamla  Finland,  J91. 

Gaspra  village,  299. 

Gatchina,  71. 

Gate  of  Iron,  305. 

Gaza,  ancient,  324. 

Genoese,  297;   colonies, 
in  Crimea,   309,   310, 
colonists,  290;   settlement, 
270;     settlement    on    the 

'    Dniestr,  217. 

Geology  of  Balaclava,  289. 

Georgia,  322. 

Gesleve,  278. 

Getara,  ancient,  325. 

Ghirey  Khans,  292. 

Ghireys,  capitjil  of,  309;  dy- 
nasty of,  279,  280. 

Gbirski,  241. 

Gnesen,  Archbishop  of,  251. 

Gnilopiat  river,  249. 

Gobi  desert,  330. 

Gori,  321. 

Gorodets,  2jo. 

Gorodnichanka,  rivulet,  360. 

Gorohovets,  Stiit.,  222. 

Grain  market  of  Morshansk, 
267. 

Granite-quarries,  390. 

Granitsa,  ?6i. 

Grave  of  Howard,  276. 

Great  Okhta,  74. 

Great  wall  of  China,  330. 

Greco-Russian  Church,  77. 

Greek  city  of  Dia,  316;  colony, 
317 ;  colonies,  315  ;  colo- 
nist, 290 ;  on  the  Azof,  272. 

Greig.  274. 

GrIazI  Slat.,  368. 

Grodno,  360. 

principality,  360. 

Gmiets,  363. 

Grushefka,  3x9. 

Guedemin,  67,  246,  261. 

Gukchey  lake,  323. 

Gun-foundry,  162. 

making,  254,  255. 

Gunja,  Persian,  325. 

Gura  Calvaria,  362. 

Gustavus  Adolphus,  9. 

Wasa,  7,  387. 

111.,  15,  372. 

Guzov,  352. 


TZIUM. 

Helsingfors,  386,  388. 

Ilemp,  256. 

Henriksdal,  389. 

Hermanov,  352. 

Hermitage : — Kertch  Collec- 
tion, 105;  library,  no;  mi- 
nerals, collection  of,  119; 
museum  of  curiosities,  104 ; 
picture  galleries,  85 ;  Scy- 
thian collection,  109  ;theatrc, 
98. 

Herodotus,  274. 

Hetmanate  abolished,  261. 

Hill  of  Opuk,  314. 

of  the  Shirins,  308. 

Hogfors,  390. 

Holy  Cross  mounlains,  36  j. 

Horde  of  Kasimof,  227. 

Howard,  252,  276. 

Hungrian  emigration,  271. 

Huns,  258. 

Hupta  river,  266. 


KIEF. 


Hadji-Bey,  fortress,  250,  251. 

Hango  Head,  386. 

Hanseatic  League,  68;  towns, 

Reval,  168. 
Harbour  of  Sevastopol,   280, 

281. 


lanovitse,  362. 

Iberia,  ancient,  322. 

Idighiel,  295. 

lllby,  339- 

Ilia,  Mount,  296. 

llmen  lake,  176. 

Ilyinskaya,  261. 

Imatra,  391. 

Imeritia,  321. 

Imports  of  Odessa,  251. 

Ingul  river,  273,  274. 

,  valley  of  the,  262. 

Ingrla  (ancient),  72. 

Inkermann,  25. 

,  valley  of,  291. 

Inundation,  Neva,  73. 

,  Dniepr,  262. 

Ipatieff  monastery,  230. 

Irkutsk,  329. 

Iron  foundries,  first,  255 ;  ore 
first  discovered,  254 ;  works, 
227  :  works  of  Tula,  255  ; 
works  in  Poland,  361. 

Ismailof,  Voevod,  242. 

Isthmus  of  I'erekop,  277. 

Istra  river,  178. 

Ivan  I.,  4. 

II.,  4- 

Ill.,5,  6,  174. 

IV.,  the  Terrible,  6, 7,  68, 

69,  133,  174.187,  194;  mur- 
der of  the  son  of,  7  ;  despotic 
Government  of,  17;  tomb, 
196, 

v.,  10. 

VI.,  murder  of,  14, 156. 

Ivangorod,  362. 

Ivanova,  221. 

Izel,  frescoes  by,  301. 

Izium,  fortress,  259. 


Jagellons,  333-?J5• 
Jasna  Gura,  361. 
Jerusalem,  New,  177. 
Jesuits,  336. 
Jews,  Karaite,  121. 
Jitomir,  246,  365,  366. 
Joseph  II.,  275. 
Jurjur,  cataract  of,  312. 


K 

Kachofka,  277. 

KaflFa,  309- jii. 

Kahelie,  323. 

Kalatch,  318. 

Kalchik  river,  317. 

Kalgan,  330. 

Kaliazin,  228. 

Kalka  river,  270. 

Kalmins  river,  317. 

Kalmuck  Tartars,  15. 

Kama  river,  328,  329. 

Kamenki  river,  365. 

Kamishborun,  316. 

Kamennoi  Ostroff',  72. 

Kamyshin,  232. 

Kansk,  329. 

Karaim  Jews,  278. 

Cemetery,  293, 

,  tribe  of,  294. 

Kararazin,  7. 

Karany  village,  289. 

Karavi  islands,  314. 

Karasu-Bazar,  307,  308. 

river,  307. 

Kargopol,  161,  162. 

Kars,  surrender  of,  28. 

Kasimof,  227,  228. 

Katcha  river,  292. 

Katunki,  230. 

Kazan.  6,  7,  231. 

Kazbek,  mount,  322,  328. 

Kazimiezh,  362. 

Kazvin,  327. 

Kem,  160;  river,  161. 

Kerij  river,  327. 

Kertch,  314-316. 

Khalka  river,  3. 

Khan-Sarai,  292. 

Khanates  of  Mongols,  270, 271. 

Khazars,  254, 259, 270, 275, 293. 

Kharkoff",  258-260. 

province,  259 ;  river,  259. 

Kherson,  271,  274-276. 

Khersonesus,  ancient,  27  5,  283- 
289;  history,  284-286;  de- 
scription, 287-289. 

Khmelnllsky,  249. 

Kiakhta,  329,  330. 

Kibitka,  329,  381. 

Kief,  245-249;  history,  245, 
246;  Pecherskoi  monastery. 


39G 


INDEX. 


KIEF. 

247;  population,  245 ;  topo- 
graphy, 247 ;  university,  249. 

Kief,  province,  246. 

Kieltse,  363. 

Kikineis.  296.  297. 

Kimmerion,  ancient,  J09,  314. 

Kineshma,  2  jo. 

Kingan  mountains,  no. 

Kingdom  of  Poland,  JJ7. 

Kishenef,  2J7. 

Kisllkoba  village,  307. 

Kiz-Koulie,  31 3- 

Kllasma  river,  221. 

Klin  Stat.,  177. 

Knights  of  Malta,  71. 

Kobryn,  ^65. 

Kokenhusen  Castle,  167. 

Koktebel,  313. 

Kolomna,  10,  264. 

Kolpino  Stat.,  177. 

Koltsof,  poet,  269. 

Konia,  post  station,  J07. 

Korchef,  228. 

Korennaya  monastery,  258. 

KomilofF,  25,  281,  282. 

Koscinoko,  15,  j62. 

Kostroma,  5,  2jo. 

Kotorosl  river,  229. 

Kovel,  365. 

KovTOv  Stat,  221. 

Kozelets,  245. 

Kozhets,  365, 

Kozlof,  267. 

Kozmodemlansk,  231. 

Krasnoe  Selo,  152. 

Krasnoyarsk,  J29. 

Krasynstaf,  366. 

Kremenchuk,  262. 

Kremlin,  Moscow,  20,  184. 

Nijni-Novgorod,  2  2  J, 

—  Novgorod,  175, 

— —  Kazan,  231. 

Skof.  69. 

Vladimir,  221 

— —  Tula,  255. 

Krestofskl  OstrofF,  72. 

Krinshl,  2C2. 

Krukova  Stat,  177. 

Kryga  river,  245. 

Kuilkovo,  259. 

Kul-Uba,  tumulus  of,  Ji6. 

Kumyss,  232,  268. 

Kur  river,  257,  321,  32 j. 

Kureis,  299. 

Kurov,  366. 

Kursk,  257,  258. 

Kutais,  321. 

Kutchuk-Koi,  297. 

Kutchuk  Stamboul,  310. 

Kutno  Stat.,  351. 

Kutuzof's  fountain,  306. 

Kymen,  falls  of,  390. 

Kyrkor,  293. 


Ladoga  lake,  163,  391. 
Lambat,  valleys  of,  J04. 


MAREND. 

Landvarovo  Stat.,  360. 
Landslips,  297. 
Langlewicz,  General,  338. 
Language,  Finnish,  372-378. 

Polish,  348. 

Russian,  32,  37. 

Lapata,  mount,  302. 

Lapy  Stat.,  361. 

Laspi,  296. 

Lazaref,  Admiral,  281. 

Leaders,  Polish   insurrection, 

338. 
Leeches,  trade  in,  262. 
Legends,  Polish,  333,  334. 
Lekh,  334- 
Lenkoran,  326. 
Lep,  island,  161. 
Lesghian  mountains,  320. 
Lcsno-Voronej,  river,  267. 
Leucopol,  309- 

Lgof  Uspenski  monastery,  266. 
Llmen,  297. 
Linen  manufactures,  222,  227, 

230. 
Lipetsk,  268. 
Lishkovitse,  351. 
Listvenitchnaya,  329. 
Literature,  39,  44. 
Lithuania,  66,  67  ;  union  with 

Poland,  335. 
Little  Okhta,  74. 

Russia,  10, 

Livadia,  300, 
Livonia,  9,  164,  165. 
Livonian  Switzerland,  167. 
Lobnoe  Mesto,  201. 
Lodeinoe  Pole,  163. 
Lodz  Stat.,  362. 
Loestrigoues,  port  of,  290. 
Lomonossoff,  158. 
Lopani  river,  259. 
Lopars,  161. 
Lovisa,  389. 
Lovitsh,  351. 
Luban  Stat.,  177. 
Lublin,  366. 
Luga,  71. 
Lybed  river,  221,  264. 


M 

Macarius,  Metropolitan,  69. 
Magaratch,  303. 
Makarief,  230. 
Malakhof  Tower,  281. 
Malefka,  255. 
Malkin  Stat.,  361. 
Malo-Vyshera  Stat.,  177. 
Mamak  village,  307. 
Man  gup,  rock  of,  294. 

town,  294. 

Mangup-Kale,  302. 
Manufactories    of    Kalomna, 

264. 
Maran,  321. 
Marend,  324. 


MOSCOW. 

Mare's  milk,  fermented,  232. 

Mariampol,  site  of,  293. 

Marina,  wife  of  false  Dmitri, 
232,  242,  264, 

Marlnpol,  270,  271,  317, 

Mariinsk  canal  system,  229. 

Marsellus,  255. 

Massandra,  303. 

Matsieiovitse,  362. 

Matyra  river,  268. 

Mauroii-Castron,  308. 

Meeting,  Catherine  II.  and 
Joseph  IL,  275. 

MegabI,  Mount,  299,  302. 

Mennonites,  272,  276. 

Menschikoff',  25. 

Menzil,  327. 

Metrophanes,  St.,  269. 

JNIiondzizhets,  364. 

Mihailofski,  150. 

JNIills  of  Elots,  268. 

Mineral  waters,  176,  232;  of 
Lipetsk,  268 ;  Piatlgorsk, 
328. 

Mingrelian  forest,  320. 

Minshev,  362. 

Miracle-working  picture  of 
Mariniwl,  317. 

Miraculous  image,  258;  of 
Ftdotief,  265 ;  Bogoslofski, 
266 ;  voyage,  265. 

Miskhor,  299. 

Mission,  American,  at  Uru- 
mlah,  324. 

Mittau,  167. 

Mizkettra,  321.  i 

Mologa,  229. 

Monasteries  :  —  Assumption, 
29?;  Bogoslofski,  266;  Ipa- 
tieflr,  2 jo;  Lgof- Uspenski, 
266  ;  New  Jerusalem,  177  ; 
Padis  Kloster,  172;  St. 
George,  289;  St.  Serglus, 
151;  Solotchi,  266;  Solo- 
vetsk,  158;  Troltsa,  217 ; 
AValaam,  156  ;  Yurj-efF,  176. 

Mongol  khanates,  271. 

Mongols,  330. 

Monument  of  Russian  Empire, 
176;  of  Glycla,  287. 

Morguda,  299. 

Morshansk,  267. 

Moscow,  4,  8,  20,  179-217; 
arsenal,  200 ;  bazaar,  203  ; 
Blagovestchenski  Sabor,  197; 
IJolshoi  Dvorets,  186 ; 
British  Consulate,  217 ; 
Cathedral  of  Archangel 
Michael,  196;  Cathedral  of 
St.  Basil,  200;  cemetery, 
214;  Chertkoff,  209;  Chu- 
dova  Monastery,  199 ; 
church  of  the  Redeemer  In 
the  Wood,  197;  clubs,  216; 
Code  of  Alexis,  190;  com- 
missioners, 182;  court  car- 
riages, 191 ;  Dissenters,  215 ; 
Donskoi  Monastery,  214 ; 
English  plate,  191 ;  English 


INDEX. 


897 


MOSKVA. 

Chapel,  216;  Foundling 
Hospital,  204 ;  freemasonry, 
207  ;  frozen  provisions,  203, 
204 ;  galleries,  207-208 ; 
gates,  184 ;  Granovitoya 
Palata,  188;  great  Riding 
School,  209 ;  great  boll,  179; 
Hermitage  Gardens,  215; 
hotels,  179;  Kitai  Gorod, 
200;  Kremlin,  184 ;  Library 
of  the  Patriarchs,  199  ;  Lob- 
noe Mesto,  201 ;  Mammoth, 
208;  Masonic  MSS.,  207 ;  Mi- 
neralogical  Collection,  207; 
"Mir,"  or  Baptismal  oil, 
198 ;  museums,  206-209 ; 
Nicholas  Palace,  191 ;  Novo- 
Devitchi  Convent,  21 3 ; 
Novospask  Monastery,  21 3 ; 
palace,  185  ;  Petrofski  Park, 
215  ;  picture  galleries,  187  ; 

Sicture  of  the  Iberian 
lother  of  God,  204 ;  Plan 
of  Kremlin,  181;  of  Mos- 
cow, 180;  of  Uspenski  So- 
bor,  192 ;  plate,  191 ;  Polish 
constitution,  189;  Polish 
throne,  190 ;  post-office,  216 ; 
population,  179;  prome- 
nades, 216;  Romanoff 
House,  201 ;  Rumiantsoff 
Museum,  206 ;  Russian 
restaurants  182;  Sacristy 
of  the  Patriarchs,  197 ;  site 
of  the  house  of  the  first 
English  merchants,  203 ; 
SimonoflF  Monastery,  212 ; 
Sokolniki,  215 ;  Sparrow 
Hills,  211 ;  Strastruy  Monas- 
tery, 203;  Suhareff  Tower, 
211 ;  Temple  of  the  Saviour, 
211;  Terem,  188;  theatres, 
216;  throne  of  the  Tsars, 
190;  tomb  of  Dimitrius, 
196;  of  Ivan  IV.,  196;  of 
Sophia     Palaeologus,     200  \ 


topograpliy,  1 82 
university. 


treasury, 
210;  Us- 
penski Sobor,  194 ;  vehicles, 
179 ;  view  of  Moscow,  203, 
212;  Vosnesenski  Convent, 
199 ;  Zolotaya  Palata,  187  ; 
Zoological  Gardens,  215. 

Moskva  river,  264. 

MouraviefF,  28. 

Msta  river,  177. 

Mud  springs,  278. 

Murom,  226,  227,  265. 

Myshkin,  229. 


Nakhitchevan,  324. 

Names,  ancient,  of  Bug  and 
Dniestr,  274;  Genoese  of 
Kertch,   315 ;    of  Poltava, 


OLVIOPOL. 

ancient,  260;  Scythian  of 
KafiFa,  309;  Sea  of  Azof, 
312. 

Naphtha  springs,  325. 

Napoleon,  19,  22,  240. 

Napoleon's  Hill,  60, 

Narev,  river,  361. 

Narva,  7,  11. 

Natalia,  wife  of  Alexis,  10. 

Naval  yard  of  Voronej,  269. 

Navigation  of  the  Don,   317, 
318. 

Neapolls,  fortress  of,  306. 

Nenke-Djan-Khanym,  mauso- 
leum of,  293. 

Neva,  4,  72,  163. 

Nevka,  river,  72. 

Neuri,  274. 

New  Jerusalem,  177-179. 

New  Stockholm,  237. 

Nicholas  I.,  22. 

Nicolaef,  273. 

Nicon,  patriarch,  10,178. 

Nicopot  276. 

Niello  ware,  255. 

NiJni-Novgorod,   9,    222-226; 
Minin   and   Pojarski,  222;  ' 
Minin's   tower,    222;    fair, 
225;  Kremlin,  223. 

Nlkita,  303,  304,  360. 

Nlemen,  river,  19,  66. 

Nieshava,  363. 

Nijine-Udinsk,  329. 

Nifeitin,  poet,  269. 

Nobles,  Russian,  16, 17. 

Nogay  Tartars,  6. 

Normans,  2. 

Norr  Vrekoskl,  289. 

Novaya  Ladoga,  163. 

Novgorod,  2,6,  173-176. 

Novgorod  Volynski,  365. 

Novki,  Stat,  221. 

Novocherkask,  318,  319. 

Novogeorgievsk  fortress,  362. 

Novoselitsa,  236. 

Novyd  Kodaika,  275. 

Nymphajum,  ancient,  J14. 


Observatory,  Dorpat,  167. 
Odessa,  250-253. 
Oesel,  island,  164. 
Oglii-Oba,     fortifications    of, 

309. 
Oka,  river,  5,  6,  9,  222,  227, 

256,  265  ;  trade  of,  257. 
Okbna,  river,  351. 
Okhta,  74. 
Okulofka  Stat,  177. 
Olga,  St,  2. 
Olgerd,  250. 
Olbia,  274. 

Olonets,  province,  i6r,  162. 
Olviopol,  263. 


PETERSBURG. 

Omnibuses,  service  of,  in  Per- 
sia, 328. 

Omsk,  320. 

Onega,  161. 

• river,  i6r. 

lake,  162. 

Oprichniks,  194,  195. 

Opuk,  Tartar  village,  314. 

Orcha,  river,  244. 

Ordnance  house  of  Peter  the 
Great,  269, 

Orel,  256,  257  ;  province,  245. 

Organ  of  Abo,  385. 

Orgeief,  237. 

Orianda,  300. 

de  Witt,  299.      ' 

Orlik  river,  256. 

Orloff  Davidoff,  232  ;  diamond, 
33. 

Oryshev,  352. 

Osembash,  village,  302. 

Oskol,  river,  259. 

Ostashkof,  177. 

Ostrolenka,  304. 

Ostra,  river,  245. 

Ostrov,  Stat,  351. 

Otx:hatof,  province,  275. 

Otchakoff,  province,  250. 

Otrepief,  254. 

Overland  route  to  the  Crimea, 
273. 


Padis  Kloster,  172. 

Palace  of  the  Khans,  292. 

Palakion,  port  of,  290, 

Panea,  297. 

Panticapseum,  ancient,  314. 

Parpatch,  314. 

Parthenike  Cape,  284,  288. 

Parthenite  village,  304, 

Pas-sage  of  iJiophantes,  291. 

Pavlofsk  Stat,  221. 

Pavlovo,  226. 

Peace  of  Nystadt,  167. 

Pechenegians,  254,  270,  275. 

Pechersk  fortress,  248. 

Pella,  156. 

Peninsula  of  Khersonesus,  283 , 
284. 

Perevles,  266, 

Perekop,  277. 

Pereyaslavl,  principality,  261. 

Pereyaslavl-Riazanski,  265.    _j 

Perm,  328. 

Peterhof,  149, 150. 

Petersburg,  St,  11,  71-146; 
Academy  of  Arts,  1 16 ;  Aca- 
demy of  Sciences,  113;  Alex- 
ander Nevski  monastery, 
131 ;  arsenals,  114;  bankers, 
144;  British  factory,  133, 
130;  Cathedral  of  St  Peter 
and  St  Paul,  112;  Church 
of  Trinity,  132;  club,  142; 
drives,  146;  English  phy- 


398 


INDEX. 


PETRIKAU. 

sician,  140 ;  exchange,  144 ; 
fortress,  112;  Foundling 
Hospital,  12?;  history  and 
topography,  7  2 ;  Ilonnitage, 
85;  hospitals  and  medical 
advice,  140;  hotels,  71 ;  Isaac 
Cathedral,  75 ;  Kazan  Cathe- 
dral, 80;  learned  societies, 
142;  library,  120;  Marble 
Palace,  112;  markets,  ij8; 
Michael  Palace,  12?;  mining 
school,  116;  mint,  11  j; 
monuments,  i?6;  picture 
galleries,  100;  plan  of  Her- 
mitage, 88  ;  population,  75  ; 

[  post-office,  44;  Preobrajen- 
ski  church,  132;  purchases, 
Ug;  Roman  Catholic  church, 
I J2  ;  Russia  Company,  i  j  j ; 
smoking,  72 ;  Sraolni  monas- 
tery, 130;  sports,  145  ;  sum- 
mary of  buildings,  144; 
Summer  Gardens,  14? ;  Tau- 
rida  palace,  1 24  ;  telegraph 
ofiBce,  144;  theatres,  141; 
university,  Ii6;  vthiclos, 
74  ;  Winter  PaUice,  89. 

Petrikau,  j6i. 

Petrofski  Ostroff,  72. 

Petrozavodsk,  162. 

Petushki  Stat.,  221. 

Phasis,  ancient,  J20. 

Philip,  Metropolltivn,  194, 195. 

Phoros,  pass  of,  296. 

Piaski,  366. 

Piati<iorsk,  J28. 

I'ilgrimages  to  Jama  (iura, 
j6i ;  Kara-su,  309 ;  Troitsa, 
220. 

Pecherskoi  monastery,  248. 

Pllitsa,  river,  362. 

Hracy  on  the  Volga,  2j2, 

Pir- Bazaar  river,  J26. 

Plaka,  promontorj',  J04. 

Plan,  Hermitage,  88. 

PlatofF,  Hetman,  monument 
to,  J 19. 

Pies,  2  jo. 

Plotsk,  j6j. 

Podolia,  26j,  237,  246. 

Pogankins,  70. 

Polish  confederation  of  Bar,  2  j8. 

Polovstes,  270,  275,  279. 

Polotsk,  2  J 8,  2J9.' 

Poltava,  260,  262;  province, 
261. 

Ponga  river,  161. 

Poniatowski,  360. 

PojKJvstchina,  215. 

Populace  of  ^ovocherkask, 
J19. 

Porcelain  works,  155. 

Ports  on  Sea  of  Azof,  272. 

Posting,  52. 

Poti,  no. 

Prussian  colonies,  272- 

Pruth,  river,  2?6. 

Prypet,  river,  246. 

Pskof,  pfoviucf,  68. 


RYLSK. 

Pskof- Pechersk,  70. 

Pskova,  river,  69 ;  Volga,  2j2. 

Psla,  river,  258. 

Pulavy,  J62. 

PultuSk,  J64. 

Putrid  Sea,  277,  279.  - 

Pyla;  Caucasa*,  j22. 


Quarries  of  Ivhersonesus,  291. 
Quarantine  Bay,  284. 


B 

Radom,  363. 

Raglan,  Lord,  288. 

Railways,  64. 

Rashln,  i6j. 

Re<l  Russia,  10.  < 

Redan,  the,  282. 

Reform,  28,  29. 

Refuge  of  Arian^s,  293. 

Resht,  J  26. 

Residence  of  Georgian  kings, 

J2I. 

Restaurants,  5?. 
Reut,  river,  2?6,  237.'' 
Rha,  river,  228. 
Riajsk,  266. 
Riazan,  264. 

,  old  city,  266. 

,  principality  of,  264,  265. 

Richelieu,  Duke  of,  251,  303, 

304. 
Rion,  river,  320. 
Risalaks,  390. 
Road  from  Bakhtchisarai  to 

Simpheropol,  295. 
Sevastopol  to  Inker  man, 

290. 
from   Tiflis    to   Erivan, 

32  J. 
Robber  of  Tushin,  264. 
Rogatshev,  365. 
Roklciny  Stat.,  361. 
Romanoff- Borisoglebsk,  229. 
Ropsha,  14. 
Roslav,  244. 
Rostavl  Sut,  365. 
Rostof,  317,  318. 
Route  to  the  Crimea,  276. 
Rov,  river,  237. 
Rovno,  365. 
Ruda  Guzovska,  351. 
Ruins  of  Khersonesus,  286. 
Rush,  3J4- 

Rurik,  house  of,  173. 
Russian  Church,  77-79. 
Ruthenia,  southern,  246. 
Rybinsk,  229. 
Ryki,  366. 
Rylsk,  258. 


SOBIESKI. 


Saching,  3  50. 

Saima,  lake,  391. 

St.  George's  Day,  289 ;  Nicholas 

Salos,  70;   Olgiv,  birthplace 

of,  70. 
Sergius,  217. 

,  monastery,  151. 

Salghlr,  river,  306,  307. 

Salt  lakes,  280 ;  springs,  363 ; 

works,  270. 
Samara,  232. 
Sandomir,  362. 
Sarabuz,  277. 
Saratoff.  232. 

,  colony,  156. 

San,  river,  362. 

Sbrutcha,  river,  237. 

Schliisselburg,  14,  156,  16  j, 

Schwert,  Bruder,  164,  169. 

Scoptsi,  321. 

Sojttish  officers,  9,  135. 

Scythians,  274. 

Sehd-riid,  river,  327. 

Seim,  river,  257. 

Selenginsk,  329. 

Shaitan  Dereh,  289. 

Senate,  12. 

Serfdom,  8,  16,  17,  23. 

Serpukhof,  25J. 

Setch,  Cossack,  271,  273.  ' 

Sevastopol,  278-282.  , 

Shein,  Boyar,  242. 

Sheksna,  river,  177, 

Shemakha,  325. 

Shidlovets,  363. 

Shipwrights,  Dutch  and  Eug- 

lish,  9,  134. 
Shirinskaya  Gora,  308. 
Shoho,  330. 
Shrava,  river,  361. 
Shuisko-Ivanofsko,  Stat.,  221. 
Shuya,  221. 
Sibbo,  389. 
Siedltse,  Stat,  364. 
Silkworms  of  Tiffis,  322. 
Siml)ir>k,  231. 
Simeis,  297,  298. 
SimpheroiK)!,  306. 
Sinabdagh,  295. 
Siniuha,  river,  263. 
Sirdiirs,  northern,  237. 
Sivash,  the,  279. 
Skiemievitse,  Stat.  Junct.,351, 

361. 
Slave-market  of  the  Crimea, 

309. 
Slavo-Servla,  271. 
Slavonians,  274,  275 ;  historj', 

Slutsk,  365. 

Smolensk,  9, 19,  240,  244. 

,  province,  240. 

Soap  of  Jnkerman,  291 ;  work."!, 

231. 
Sobieski,  birtliplace,  366. 


INDEX. 


399 


SOCIETY. 

Society,  Russian,  6|. 

Soezevka,  363. 

Soldaya,    Genoese    city,   J12, 

Solotchi,  monastery,  266. 

Solovetfik,  monastery,  158-160. 

Sosna,  river,  268. 

Sosnovitse,  361. 

Source  of  the  Don,  318. 

Spask,  266. 

Spirova,  Stat,  177. 

Sport,  58. 

Stalactite    caves   of  Tchatyr 

Dagh,  306. 
Stary  Krim,  279,  308,  309. 
Staraya  Russ,  176. 
Staroveri,  160. 
Star  Chamber,  14. 
States  General,  9,  I2, 16. 
Statistics,  30. 
Stavropol,  2?2. 
Steamboat  Companies,  Volga, 

230. 
Steamers  on  the  Vistula,  362. 
Stearine  works,  231. 
Stenka  Razin,  9,  228,  231,232. 
Stephen  Balhorij,  360. 
Steppes,  24?,  246,  271. 
Streletsa  Bay,  284. 
Streltsi,  7,  10,  179,  188. 
Story  of  Balaclava,  port,  290 ; 

the   Khersonesus,  286-287 ; 

Cape  Parthenike,  288. 
Struve,  Otto,  167. 
Sudak,  Bay  of,  312;  hamlet, 

312. 
Sugakley,  river,  263. 
Sugar  manufactories  in  Poland, 

351-J52. 
Suhednivu,  363. 
Sultanofka,  314. 
Sumi,  258. 
Surojskie  More,  312. 
Surovskid  goods,  312. 
Susanin,  Ivan,  230. 
Suwalki,  364. 
Sviajsk,  231. 
Svir,  river,  163,  177. 
Sweaborg,  386. 
Swentsiany,  68. 
Swiss  colony  in  the  Crimea, 

3U. 


Tabana,  Dereh,  294. 
Tabieez,  324. 
Taganrog,  270-273. 
Tallina,  168. 
'J'allow  melting,  267. 
Tambof,  province,  267. 
Tammerl'ors,  368. 

falls,  389. 

Tanais,  river,  270. 
Tanneries,  231. 
Tarantas,  329. 

Tartar  kingdom,  Kazan,  231. 
— —  village,  230. 

Russia— ISQS. 


TROK. 

Tartar  physiognomy,  297. 
Tascher,  Joachim,  300. 
Tauri,  altars  of,  302. 

,  divinity  of,  288. 

.fortifications  of,  304,  305. 

,  work  of,  291. 

Tauric  Chain,  289,  296,  302, 
313. 

Taurida,  279. 

Tautshan  Bazaar, 

Tartar  village,  306. 

Tavastehus,  388. 

Tchaplinka,  277. 

Tchatyr  Dagh,  277,  289,  306. 

Tchekh,  334. 

Tchernaya,  river,  25,  291. 

—  sources  of,  295. 

Tchernaya  Dolina,  277. 

Tchufut  Kal^,  293. 

Tea  trade,  224. 

Telega,  329. 

Tememik,  rivulet,  318. 

Tepe  Kermen,  293. 

Terek,  river,  328. 

Terespol,  364. 

Teterev,  river,  365. 

Teutonic    Knight^j,   164,   165, 
169,  360. 

Theodotia,  309-311. 

Tiflis,  322. 

Tigris,  237. 

Tiger,  flag  of,  251. 

Tikhvin,  canal  system,  229. 

Timber  trade,  236,  237. 

Tiraspol,  237. 

Tiumen,  329. 

Todleben,  23,  25. 

Toktaniyeh,  253,  264. 

Tomb  of  Aldurakhman,  292. 

Diliarah  Bikeg,  293. 

Tomsk,  329. 

Torsley,  389. 

Trade  of  Berdiansk,  317;  of 
the  Caspian,  233 ;  of  Elets, 
268 ;  of  Elizavetgrad,  262 ; 
of  Karasu-Bazar,  308;  of 
Kremenchuk,  262;  Kozlof, 
267 ;  of  Morshansk,  267 ;  of 
Nicolaef,  274 ;  of  Orel,  256, 
257  ;  Poltova,  26r,  262 ;  of 
Riajsk,  266 ;  with  Smolensk, 
241 ;  of  Taganrog,  272 ;  of 
Tula,  255 ;  of  Voronej,  269. 

Traffic  on  the  Caspian  Sea, 
325. 

Travelling,  63. 

Treaty  of  Abo,  390;  of  An- 
drussy,  243,  246  ;  of  Bel- 
grade, 271;  of  Jassy,  250; 
of  Kinardlji,  250;  Kuchuk- 
Kamardjl,  271,  280,  315;  of 
Nystadt,  390 ;  of  Vrazma, 
246 ;  of  Poltava,  261. 

Tribunals,  ancient,  of  Poland, 
place  of  meeting,  361 ; 
Polish,  366. 

Triumphal  arches,  146,  152. 

Troglodytes,  289,  29?. 

Trok,  principality,  360. 


VIAZNIKI. 

Troitsa    Monastery,    10,    i8, 
217,  220. 

TrubeJ,  river,  264. 

Trubinski  House,  70. 

Tsarsko^  Selo,  152,  154. 

Tsars  of  Kasimof,  227. 

Tsaritsyn,  232. 

Tsickhotsiuck,  363. 

Tsna,  river,  177,  267. 

Tszenstokhova  Stat,  361. 

Tiiak  Valley,  312. 

Tula,  254,  256, 

Tumuli  of  the  Bosphorus,  314; 
of  Elizavetgrad,  263;  of 
Kharkoff,  258;  of  Kberson, 
274;  of  Konia,  307;  of 
Sunpheropol,  306. 

Tunas,  river,  307. 

Tursova,  rivulet^  318. 

Tushl,  3. 

Tushin,  thief  of.  254,  264. 

Tuskor,  river,  259. 

Tvertsa,  river,  177. 

Twer,  177. 

province,  177. 

Tyskewicz,  Voevod  of   Kief; 
249. 


TJglltch,  228,  229. 

Ubi  Uzen,  312. 

Ukholova,  villages  of,  266. 

Ukraine,  246,  247,  260,  261. 

Ulojenie,  190, 

Unja,  river,  230. 

Union  of  Lubin,  246, 

Uniats,  67,  245,  247. 

Upa,  river,  254. 

Universities  ;  Dorpat,  167  ; 
Helsingfors,  308 ;  Kazan, 
231 ;  Kharkoff,  260  ;  Kief, 
249;  Moscow,  210;  St  Pe- 
tersburg, n6;  Odessa,  252. 

Ural  mountains,  329. 

Urga,  330. 

Urumiah,  324. 

Urzuf,  Valley  of,  30J. 

Bay,  304. 

Ushun,  277. 

Ussimdji,  mountains,  295. 


Valdai,  177;  hills,  177. 

Valkl,  259. 

Valley  of  the  Devil,  289. 

Vallin-Koski,  falls,  391. 

Vasil,  231. 

Vassili  Ostroff,  72. 

Veche,  6,  9,  16,68,  173. 

bell,  69, 174. 

Smolensk,  241. 

Veliki  river,  68. 
Venetians  in  the  Crimea,  312. 
Verkhnd-Udinsk,  329. 
Viasma,  21. 
Viazniki  Stat,  222. 

U 


400 


INDEX. 


VIEPSH, 

Viepsh,  river,  362. 

Vilia,  river,  66,  67. 

Villa  of  Prince  Woronzoff,  298. 

Vines,  collection  of,  Crimea, 

303  ;  Vineyards  of  Alushta, 

305;  of  Kahetie,  32 j. 
Vinnitsa,  249,  250. 
Vistula,  river,  351,  363. 
Vladlkavkas,  328. 
Vladi-Kavkas,  pass  of,  322. 
Vladimir,  town  of,  3,  4,  221 ; 

province,  222 ;  Grand  Duke, 

284-285. 
Vlotslavek  Stat.,  351,  363. 
Volga,  river,  140,  178,  182. 
Volbynia,  province,  237,  246. 
Volkhof,  river,  173,  176,  177. 
Volkhova  Stat.,  177. 
Volochisk,  237. 
Voronej,  268. 
Voronej,  river,  269. 
Vorskla,  river,  258,  261. 
Vosnesenie,  162. 
Voskresenski  monastery,  177. 
Voyage  of  Bishop  of  Murom, 

265. 
Voydge  down  the  Volga,  233. 
Vsevolod   Gabriel,  1  rince  of 

Novgorod,  70. 
Vuox,  river,  391. 
Vybutina,  70. 
Vyra,  river,  245. 
Vyshoprod,  363. 
Vysounski,  iron  works,  227. 
Vysbni-Volochok,  177. 
Vytegra,  162. 
river,  162. 


w 

Walaam  Monastery,  156. 

Warsaw,  15,  19;  Arsenal,  old, 
i55  >  asylum,  deaf,  dumb, 
and  blind,  357  ;  asylum, 
lunatic,  354;  bazaar,  356; 
Bank  of  Poland,  3$$  ;  Belve- 
dere Palace,  358 ;  benevo- 
lent society,  house  of,  356; 
Bielany,  353  ;  botanical  gar- 
dens, 358;  Briihl  palace, 
356;  Camaldolite  ch.  and 
convent,  35  J  ;  caskada,  35?; 
Castl"  Falenti,  355  ;  Castle 
of  Villanov,  358;  cathedral, 
353 ;  church  of  Pauline  and 


WARSAW. 

Dominican  convents,  35  ? ; 
ch.  of  our  I^dy,  353  ;  ch. 
of  the  Franciscans,  353 ; 
ch.  of  the  Basilians,  354;  ch. 
of  the  Capucins,  354;  ch. 
and  convent  of  Carmelites, 
355;  ch.  of  the  convent  of 
Bemardines,  356 ;  ch.  of  the 
convent  of  the  Visitandines, 
356;  ch.  of  the  Holy  Cross, 
357;  citadel,  353;  clubs, 
352;  Credit  Foncier,  the, 
355  ;  crosses,  the  two,  357  ; 
evangelical  chapel,  355  ; 
evangelical  cemetery,  355 ; 
Field  of  Mars,  354;  Gro- 
khov,  359 ;  hospital  of  tbe 
Infant  Jesus,  355 ;  hospital, 
Israelite,  354 ;  hospital, mili- 
tary, 358;  hotels,  352;  Hotel 
de  I'Kurope,  356;  Hotel  de 
Ville,  354  ;  House  of  Count 
Andrew  Zamoiski,  357  ; 
IronGate,  356;  Iron-works, 
354 ;  Jerusiilem  carrier.  355; 
Krasinski  Palace,  354 ;  Lu- 
zicnki,  358  ;  Mariemont,  35  ?; 
Market,  horse  and  cattle, 
359  ;  market  -  place,  356 ; 
merchants'  club,  355;  mint, 
354;  monument  to  Coper- 
nicus, 357  ;  Morysln  and 
Natolin  villas,  359;  Mos- 
tovski  Palace,  355  ;  Obelisk, 
356 ;  observatory,  358 ;  Ohm 
Gardens,  355 ;  Ordynatckie, 
359 ;  palace  of  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Warsaw,  354; 
palace  of  the  Pac  family, 
354 ;  palace  of  the  I'rince 
Primate,  354;  palace  of 
Count  Zamoiski,  355 ;  palace 
of  the  Namiestnik,  356; 
palace  of  the  l^rince  Oginski, 
356;  palace  of  Count  Po- 
tocki,  356  ;  palace  of  Count 
Uruski,  357;  palace  of  the 
Counts  Krasinski,  357  ;  Pod- 
blakhon  palace,  353  ;  popu- 
lation, 352 ;  Povonski  ceme- 
tery, 354  ;  post-office,  356  ; 
railway  htatioii,  Warsaw- 
Vienna.  355  ;  Kasliyn,  355  ; 
reformed  church,  354 ;  Rus- 
Bian  cemetery,  355  ;  Russian 
cathedral,  354  ?  Sapieha  bar- 
racks, 353;  Saska  Kempa, 
359 ;  Saxony  gardens,  355  ; 


THE  END. 


ZOMBKOWITSE.  (f 

Saxony  Square, 356 ;  Senate* 
house,  354 ;  Sierakovski  bar-  . 
raclcs,  353;  Solec,  359; 
square  of  royal  castle,  352  ; 
statue  of  the  Holy  Virgin, 
354 ;  statue  of  St.  John 
Nepomuck,  357  ;  statue  of 
the  Virgin,  356;  Summer 
camp  of  Russian  troops,  354; 
Tarnovsky  palace,  356  ; 
tent  of  Kara  Mustapha,  359; 
terminus  of  St.  Petersburgli 
railway,  352 ;  topography, 
352  ;  vehicles,  352 ;  Vola, 
parish  church,  355 ;  Zamek, 
352. 

Warta  river,  361. 

Watershed  of  Immeritia  and 
Georgia,  321. 

Wheat'  trade  of  Odessa,  251 ; 
of  Olviopol,  263J  of  Orel, 
256. 

White  Russia,  68,  238,239. 

Wielopolski,  Marquis,  337. 

Wines  of  the  Crimea,  298, 299, 
301,  303. 

Winn  is,  255. 

Witebsk  province,  68. 

Wool  trade,  262. 

Wyborg,  390. 


Yallas,  mountain,  302. 
Yalta,  301. 
— — ,  valley  of,  302. 
Yaroslaf,  Grand  Duke.  247. 
Yenisei,  province,  329;  river, 

329. 
Yoprakl,  mount,  302. 
Yurief-l'ovoljski,  230. 
YuryefiF,  monastery,  176. 


Zakrotshim,  363. 
Zamosts,  366. 
Zaporogians,  271,  272. 
Zavikhost,  362. 
Zegzhe,  364. 

Zinc-works  in  Poland,  361. 
Zolkief,  366. 
Zombkowitse,  361. 


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Page 
Allxandria  ana  Caibo— llobert- 

suii,  B<)oksellei-s 38 

Antwerp— Hotel  St.  Antoiue  .     .  2f> 

U6te\  du  Grand  lAlx)urenr  .     .  r>2 

Daden-Badkn— Victoria  Hotel     .  37 

Hotel  and  Pension  Uulle  Vue     .  32 
15abcku)Sa  —  Gnmd    H«')tei    des 

C^uatre  Nations 46 

BK1.LAG10 — Hotel  Villa  Giula  .     .  47 

Hotel  de  Florence 37 

}l6lf\  Geuazzini 37 

Bkblin— Hotel  d'Angleterre    .     .  39 

liKKNE — Heller's  Musical  Boxes   .  80 

liEX — Grand  Hotel  dcs  Salines      .  55 

Itolx>GSA— Grand  Hotel  d'lUlie   .  30 

H6tel  lirun 36 

Bonk— G<jlde'       ar  Hotel  ...  23 

BaiENZ — Gro^smaiin's  Woo»l  Sculpt.   S 

Bbussei^s— Hi^tel  de  Belle  Vue      .  61 

Grand  Hdtel  de  Saxe  ....  45 

Chbibtiania — Hotel  Rcandinavie.  38 
CouxJNK — Farina's  Eau  de  Ct)logne  8 
Co.NSTANTINOPLE— Hotel  d'Aiigle- 

terre 63 

CoPKNHAGEK — Royal  Hotel     .     .  o8 


Dieppe — Hiltel  des  Bains    .     . 

HOtel  Ii<nal 

iJjiesuKN— lirand  Hdtel  de  Saxe 

Ka>8er'3  Hotel  Bellevue  .     . 

Victoria  Hotel 

Hotel  de  I'Ange  d'Or  .     .     . 


48 
45 
44 
28 
40 
40 


Floeknok — Aglietti  4  Sons,  Artit>ts  9 

Bianchini's  Mosaic      ....  5 

Brizzi's  Mu-sIcaI  Establishment .  24 

Costa  and  (Jouti,  Artists  ...  10 

Montelatici's  M<m<ucs.     ...  60 

llomauelli,  iiculptor   ....  24 

Sasso  and  Son.  Ai  tii<ts      ...  43 

Fkankfokt — Tacchi's  Glass  Ware- 

hoase 11 

Iloinan  Emi)eror  Hotel     ...  19 
Bohler'ii    Manufactory    of   Stag- 
horn    50 

Union  Hotel 42 

Geneva — Baker,  Chemist  ...  68 

Br6mond,  Musical  Boxes      .     .  24 

Chateau  de  Prangins       ...  66 
(irand  Hotel  Beau  Bivage    .     .21 

Pension  Flagell 36 

Grivaz,  Jeweller 19 

Hotel  de  la  Couronne      .     .     .  24 

Hotel  Victoria 34 

Hatel  de  I'Ecu 44 

Hfttel  de  la  MctroiK>lo      ...  31 

Hdtel  do  la  Iteajnuaissance       .  34 

HOiel  des  Bergues 20 

Golay  and  Co.'s  Watches    and 

Jewelry 56 

Poiizet,  Optician 31 

Heynaud  x  Glatou,  Watches,  Ac.  28 

Troll's  Musical  Boxes       ...  44 


Page 

Genoa— Hotel  des  Quatre  Nations  49 

Mossa,  Jeweller 7 

Hanover— TTnlon  Hotel      ...  41 

Heidelbebg — Hotel  de  I'Europe  .  43 
HoMBUKG  —  Hotel    des    (juiitre 

SdLsons 4ij 

Innsbruck — Hotel  Golden  Sun    .  89 

In  lEicLvCH  i:N— Hotel  de  Btdle  Vue  47 

Hotel  Jungl'rau 47 

Lacsanne — Hatel  Beau  lUvage    .  42 

Hotel  Giblwn 34 

H<»tel  Eiche-Mont 34 

Lucerne — Hotel  d'Angleterie.     .  *'3 

Hotel  Beau  liivage      ....  42 

HtJtel  Schweizerhof     ....  39 

.Swan  Hotel 39 

LucHON  —  Grand  Hotel  IVmne- 

Mai^on 36 

Matence — Hotel  d'Angleterre      .  18 

Milan — Hotel  Cavour   ....  47 

Moscow — Hotel  Billo  ....  64 
Munich  —  Wimmer's  Gallery  of 

Fine  Arts 6 

Naples — Civalleri,  Agent  ...  60 
Nassau — Bubbles  from  the  Brunnen  42 
Neufchatel— Hotel  du  Mout  Blanc  33 

Nice — Baker,  Cliemist    ....  68 

Nuremberg — H<3tei  de  Bavitsre    .  43 

Bed  Horse  Hotel 45 

St.  Pktersbubg — Hotel  d'Angle- 
terre      62 

Pisa — Andreoni,  Sculptor  ...  5 
Prague — Uofniaun's  Glass  Manu- 
factory       9 

Rome— Baker,  Chemist    .    .     .     .68 

Shea,  House  Agent      ....  14 

EoTTEBDAM — Kramers,  Bookseller  63 

SaarbrL'ck — Hotel  Zimmermann  40 
SCHAFFILAUSKN — Hotel  iichweizer- 

hof 46 

Stockholm — Fritze.  Bookseller    .  10 

Stresa — HOtel  des  lies  borromt^  37 

Thun — Sterchi,  Sculptor  in  Wood  6 

Venice — Grand  Hotel  Victoria     .  63 

Ponti,  Optician 10 

Vevay — Hotel  Monnet  ....  48 

Grand  HOtel  de  Vevey     ...  21 

H6tel  d'Angleterre     ....  33 

Hotel  du  Lac 33 

Vienna — Lobmeyr's    Glass    Manu- 
factory   9 

H6tel  Archduke  Charles  .      .     .  49 

Hdtel  Oesterreichisclier  Hof      .  31 

Empress  Elisabeth  Hotel       .     .  32 

Villeneuve — H6tel  Byron      .     .  44 

Wiesbaden— Four  Seasons  Hotel  42 

WiLUBAU — Hotel  Klumpp  ...  41 


Page 
Z  DUG— Stag  Hotel 46 

ZfJBiOH— Hotel  de  lEjHie  au  Lac  .    IS 

LONDON. 

Al>erdeen  Granite  Monuments      .     18 
Agent.s-_M'Criicken        ....    2-4 

Olivier  and  Co.      .     .     .     16,17 

CarrandCo 12,  l.S 

Anglo- Italian  Bank 18 

Books  and  Maps 57 

Gary's  Telesc»i« 19 

Chubb's  Locks  and  Safes     ...  15 

Church  of  England  Appeal       .     .  6i 

Continental  Daily  Parcels  Express  35 

Couriers  and  Servants    ....  22 

Couriers  (Swiss  and  United)    .     .  29 


Education— Yf)ung  Gentlemen  . 
Ellis's  Aeratetl  Watei-s   .... 

Foreign  Books 

Gillott's  Pens 

Heal's  Furniture  and  Bedsteads  . 
Lee  and  Carter's  Guide  Depot .  . 
Mudie's  Library 

National  Provincial  Bank  .  .  . 
Norwegian    Laii-uage,    Sargent's 


Introduction  to 


47 
28 

S2 

56 

59 

64 

2r, 

51 

63 


Parr's  Life  Pills 4g 

I  Passport  Agency-Adams   .     .     !  20 
Passi»ort  Agency— Dorrell   ...  65 
Pas.six)rt  Agency— Letts       .     .     .  tJ.s 
Passjxirt  Agency — Stanford      .     .  1!  I 
I  Photographic  Apparatus  for  Tour- 
ists         41 

j  Portmanteaus — Allen's  ....  2t! 

I  Railway— South-Westem     ...     27 

Tennant — Geologist 7 

Thresher's  Essentials  for  Travel- 
ling   60 

Travel  Talk co 

I  ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH— 

'      Koyal  Hotel ]9 

Bristol — 
'      Royal  Hotel 87 

Exeter — 
'      Jtoyal  Clarence  Hotel ....    47 

I  Lynton — 

Valley  of  Rocks  Hotel      ...    48 

Penzance — 
Mount's  Bay  House  and  Hotel  .    52 

TOBQUAY— 

Field,  Hoase  and  Estate  Agei»t .    24 

IRELAND. 
\  Portbt;8h — 
I      Antrim  Arms  Hotel    ....     27 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


Mav, 


London,  May  1,  1871. 


MESSllS.  J.  &  R.  IVrCRACKEN, 

38,  QUEEN  STREET,  CANNON  STREET,  E.G., 

AGENTS,  BY  APPOINTMEXT,   TO  THE  ROYAL  ACADEMY,  NATIONAL  GALLERY, 
AND  GOVERNMENT  DEPARTMENT  OF  SCIENCE  AND  ART, 

GENERAL  AND  FOREIGN  AGENTS, 

WINE  MERCHANTS, 

Agents  tor  Bouviei-'s  Heiiciiatel  Cliaiiipagiie, 


AKD 


AGENTS   GENERALLY   FOB  THE   RECEPTtON  AND  SHIPMENT  OF  WORKS  OY 

ART,   BAGGAGE,   &C., 

T%Om  AND  TO  ALL  PAHTS   OF  THE   IXTORLO, 

Avail  themselves  of  this  opportunity  to  returfi  their  sincere  thanks  to  the 
Nobility  and  Gentry  tor  the  patronage  hitherto  conferred  on  them,  and  hope  to 
he  honoured  with  a  continuance  of  their  favours.  Their  charges  are  framed  with 
a  due  regard  to  economy,  and  the  same  care  and  attention  will  be  bestowed  as 
heretofore  upon  all  packages  passing  through  their  hands.  \ 


j.  and  R.  M<>C.  have  the  advantage  of 

DRY  AND    SPACIOUS    WAREHOUSES, 

Where  Works  of  Art  and  all  descriptions  of  Property  can  be  kept  during  the 
Ownei-s'  absence,  at  most  moderate  rates  of  rent. 


Parties  favouring  J.  and  R.  M^C.  with  their  Consignments  are  requested  to  be 
particular  in  having  the  Bills  of  Lading  sent  to  them  DIRECT  by  Post,  and  also  to 
forward  their  Keys  with  the  Packages,  as,  although  the  contents  may  be  free  of 
Duty,  all  Packages  are  still  examined  by  the  Customs  immediately  on  arrival. 
Packages  sent  by  Steamei-s  or  otherwise  to  Southampton  and  Livei-pool  also  attended 
to ;  but  all  Letters  of  Advice  and  Bills  of  Lading  to  be  addressai  to  38,  Qdeen 
Street,  as  above. 

MESSRS.  J.  AND  R.  IVtcCRACKEN 

ARE  THE  APPOINTED  AGENTS  IN  ENGLAND  OF  MR.  J.  M.  FARINA, 

GeGENUBER  DEM  JULICHS  PtATZ,  COLOGNE, 

^OB  HIS 

CELEBRATED  EAU  DB  COLOGNE, 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


MESSRS.  J.  AND  R,   MCCRACKEN'S 


PRINCIPAL    CORRESPONDENTS. 


ALEXANDRIA ^^leesrs.  D.  Robkijt&ok  k  Co. 

ALICANTE Mr.  P.  R.  Dahla.sdeb. 

ANCONA    Messrs.  Moore,  Morellet,  &  Co. 

ANTW^ERP Messrs.  F.  Mack  &  Co. 

ATHENS,    P1R.*:US 

R  A  nw  Tj  A  nv\r        i  Messrs.  Stuffes  fe  Bikder.    Mr.  F.  Pklikan's  Successor,  C.  Rasch 

i5AUi!.i\.UAiJiJ..M  ...  I     Messrs.  Mellekio  Fbehes.    3Ir.  H.  Ulluicii. 

BAD  EMS Mr.  H.  W.  Thiel. 

BAGXERES  DE  BI-, 

GORRE      (Hauteg  \  Mr.  Leox  Geeuzet,  Marble  Works. 

Pyreneeu) i 

BASLF  i  Messrs.  Jean  Pkeiswek4  &  Fils. 
(  Mr.  J,  Frey. 

^\^v^i^  rv  i  Messrs.  Schicklee  Brothers. 

^"^^^^^•^ \  Mr.  Lion  M.  Cohx,  Comm"^".  Expediteur. 

BKRNE Messrs.  A.  Bauer  i;  Co. 

HKYROUT MM.  Henet  Heald  &  Co. 

BOLOGNA Messrs.  Renoli,  Buggio,  &  Co.    Sig.  L.  M  kni. 

( Mr.  GRF.yrAiLLY  Fils  Aine. 
BORDEAUX "{Mr.  LioN  Gekuzkt,  44,  Alldes  de  Touniy. 

[  Messrs.  Albuecht  &  Fils,  19,  Rue  Foy. 
BOOTX)GNE  8.  M. . . .    Messrs.  Mory  &  Co.    Messrs.  L.  J.  VooCE  &  C,> 

BRINDISI Italo-Oriental  Ct>.,  A.  Coen,  Manager. 

CALAIS Messrs.  L.  J.  Vogue  &  Co. 

CALCUTTA Messrs.  Gielanders,  Aubcthkot,  &  Co. 

CANNES Mr.  Taylor. 

CARUSBAD Mr.  Thomas  Wolf.  Glass  Manufacturer. 

CARRARA Sig.  F.  Bienaime,  Sculptor. 

CATANIA Mr.  Matthey. 

CIVITA  VECCHIA  .     Messrs.  Lonve  Brothees,  British  Consulate. 
r.nr  rkn  M V  i  ^»Ir.  J.  M.  Farika,  gegenUber  dem  Julichs  Platz. 

COLOGxNh I  Messrs.  G«>e.  TiLMES  &  Co. 

CONSTANCE 31  r.  Fred.  Hoz. 

CONSTANTINOPLE     Mr.  Alfrep  C.  Laughtok.    Messrs.  C.  S.  Hakson  k  Co. 

COPENHAGEN Messrs.  11.  J.  Bing  &  Son. 

CORFU ; .     Mr.  J.  W.  Taylor. 

{Messrs.  H.  W.  Bassfnge  &  Co.  Mr,  E.  Arnold,  PrinUeller.  The 
Director  of  the  Royal  Porcelain  Manufactory  Depot.  Messrs. 
Seegee  &  Maesee.  Madame  Helena  Wolfsohn,  Schussergasse, 
No.  5.     Mr.  Moritz  Meyeb,  Moritz  Strasse. 

( Messrs.  French  &  Go.     Sig.  Luigi  Ramacct.    Messrs.  Emm'c.  FENzr 

j     &  Co.     Messrs.  Maquat,   Hooker,  &  Co.     Mr.  E.  Goodban. 
FLORENCE /     Messrs.  NEbTi,  Ciardi,  &  Co.    Mr.  T.  Bianchini,  Mosaic  Worker. 

)     Messrs.  P.  Bazzanti  &  Fio..  Sculptors,  Luiigo  I'Aruo.    iiej-.-rs. 

\     EvRE&  Mattkini.     Sig.  Tito  Gag liard!. 

/  Mr.  P.  A.  Ta(;(;hi'8  Sucx:essor,  Glass  Manufacturer.  Zeil  D,  44. 
FRANKFORT  o.  M.  \  Messrs.  Bing,  Juu.,  &  Co.      Mr.  F.  Buhler.  ZeU  D,  17. 

I  Messrs.  Sachs  and  HocimEiMEE,  Wine  Merchants. 
FRANZENSBAD.  . . .     Mr.  C  J.  Hokmann. 

GENEVA MM.  Levrier  k  PiaisstER. 

^  .,„ _  .  C  Messrs.  Granet,  Beowts,  .Sc  Co. 

GENOA I  Messrs.  G.  Vignolo  &  Figi.    Mr.  A.  MossA,  Croce  dl  Malte. 

C  Messrs.  De  feuYSEE  Feebes,  Dealers  in  Antiquities,  Marche  au 

GHENT ^     Beurre.  No.2l. 

GIBRALTAR Messrs.  Aeohbold,  Johnston,  &  Power.    Messrs.  Turnke  &  Co. 

HAMBURG Messrs.  J.  P.  Jensen  &  Co.     Messrs.  Sohormer  &  TpipJiM^N, 

HAVRE Mossrg.  liOUEDiN,  Pfere,  FU^Jewe,  ftp4G.  Capj^on, 

HEIDPXREIU} Mr.  Ph.  ZiviMERMAJll^ 

jtjiONFLEUR , .    Jlr.  J.  WAG»et^ 

99 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


M^^CRACKEN'S  LIST  OF  CORKESPONDENTS-conf.nued. 

INTERLACKEN ....    Mr,  J. Grossmakn.    Mr.  A.  Tkemp     Mr.  C.  H.  Scmuh. 

JERUSA LEM Messrs.  K.  F.  Spittlku  k  Co.    Mr.  M.  Bkkciieim.  J r. 

LAUSANNE Mr.  Dubois  Renou  &  Fils. 

1  T^^^xr^nxT  i  Messrs.  Alex.  Macbkan  &  Co.     Messrs.  Maquat,  Hookf.k,  i  (o. 

LEL.hORN 5     j^r  ^i   KisTORi. 

LEI PZIG Mr.  J.  E.  OKHLSciiLACEK's  Successor. 

3JSB0N Mr.  E.  Bourgard. 

LUCKRN E Messrs.  F.  X>'urb  &  Fils. 

MADRAS Messrs.  BiNNT  &  Co. 

MALAGA Mr.  Gkokqe  Hodgson.    Mr.  J.  A.  Mark.  ,,  c.     , 

r  Mr.  Emanuel  Zammit.     Messrs.  J08»>.  Daumamn  &  Sons,  46.  Strada 
MALTA \      Levante,  Mosaic  Workers.    Mr.  Fortitnato  Tksta,  92,  Strada  ^»* 

i     Lucia. 

MANNHEIM   Messrs.  Eyssen  &  Claus. 

MARl KN  BA  D Mr.  J.  T.  Adler,  Glass  Manufacturer. 

MARSEILLES Messrs.  Claude  Clero  &  Co. 

MAYENCE Mr.  G.  L.  Kayser,  Expediteur. 

MEN  rON  E Mr.  Palmaro,  Mr.  Jean  Okekgo  Fils. 

MESSINA Messrs.  Cailler,  Walkkr,  &  Co. 

Ti,,,  .  ^  C  Mr.  G.  B.  Buffet.  Piazza  dl  S.  Sepolcro,  No.  1 

^^^^^ \  Messrs.  Fratklli  Brambilla.    Messrs.  Ulrich  &  Co. 

TLTrrvTr-tr  5  Messrs.  Wimmer  &  Co..  Priiitsellers,  Brieniier  Strasse.  3.     Jfessrs. 

AlUNlCtt -^     Bleichf.r  &  Andreis.     Messrs.  Squindo  &  Scheukk. 

„.^,,  „_  (Messrs.  Iggulden  &  Co.     Messrs.    W.J.  Turnkk  &  Co.     Mr.  G. 

JN  AFL.h^ I     Scala,  Wine  Merchant,  42.  Via  Cuncezione  di  Toledo. 

NEW  YORK' Messrs.  Austin,  Baldwin,  &  Co. 

NEUCH  A  TEL  ^  Messrs  Bouvier  Frebks,  Wine  Merchants.    Messrs.  Humbert  &  Co. 

(Suisse) ..j  .  „  ,,    .   „ 

(  Messrs.  A.  Laoroix  &  Co..  British  Consulat*.     Messrs.  M.  &  N. 

^^^•^ \    Giordan.  Mr.  II.  Ullrich.  M.M.  Mignon  FKEREs,9,RueParadis. 

Texmi-^vrnL'Tjn  5  Mr.  John  Conrad  Cnopk.  Banker  and  ForwardiiiR  Agent. 

XM  UKKMBli.tCt» j  ^jj.  ^  pioKERT,  Dealer  in  Antiquities.     Mr.  Max  Pickeet. 

OSTEND Messrs.  Bach  &  Co.    Messrs.  Mack  and  Co. 

PALERMO Messrs.  Ingham.  Whittaker.  &  Co. 

PARIS Mr.  L.  Chenue.  Packer,  Rue  Croix  Petlta  Champs,  No.  24. 

PAU Mr.  J.  MnsGRAVE  Clay.    Mr.  Bergerot. 

^  Messrs.  HuGUET  &  Van  Lint,  Sculptors  in  Alabaster  and  Marble. 

*^*^^ \Mr.  G.  Andreoni,  ditto  ditto. 

t>n  Knjyv  S  ^r-  "V^'-  Hofmann,  Glass  Manufacturer,  Blauern  Stem. 

PUAt^Uh >Mr.  A.  V.  Lebeda,  Gun  Maker. 

gUEBEC Messrs.  Forsyth  &  Pemberton. 

j' Messrs.  Plowden  &  Co.     Messrs.  Alf.x.  Macbean  &  Co.      Messrs. 

I      Freeborn  &  Co.     Messrs.  Mawttay,  Hooker,  &  Co.    Messrf^. 
KOM  h <      Si»ADA,  Flamini,  Sc  Ct).     Messrs.  Fur.sk  Bros,  k  Co.    Mr.  Luig i 

(      Branchini.  at  the  English  College.     Mr.  J,  P.  Shea. 

ROTTERDAM Messrs.  Preston  &  Co.    Messrs.  C  Hemmann  &  Co. 

SANRKMO MM.  Asquasciati  Fbere.'^. 

.SCHAFFHAUSEN  ..     Mr.  Fred  Hoz.  „   ,    »   „ 

SEVILLE Mr.  Julian  B.  Williams,  British  Vice-Consulate.    M.J.  A.  Batm.t. 

SM YRN  A Messrs.  Hanson  &  Co. 

ST.  PETEllSBURG  .     Messrs.  Thomson,  Bonar,  k  Co.    Mr.  C.  Kruger. 

THOUNE Mr.  J.  Kehuli-Steuchi.    Mr.  N.  Buzberger. 

TRIE.STE Messrs.  Flli.  Chi  esa. 

TURIN Messrs.  J.  A.  I^chaise  &  Ferrkro.  Rue  de  V Arsenal,  No.  4. 

/Mr.  L.  BovARDi.  Ponte  Alle  Ballotte. 
VENICE \  Messrs.  Frkres  Schielin.    Mr.  Antonio  Zen.    Mr.  C.  Ponti. 

( Messrs.  S.  &  A.  Blumenthal  &  Co. 

VEVEY Mr.  Jiles  G  ktaz  Fil.s. 

triuxrxr  a  S  ^r.  H.  ULLRICH,  Glass  Manufacturer,  am  Lugeck,  No.  3. 

VlhNNA "^Messrs.  J.  &L  Lobmetbr,  Glass  Manufacturers.  940,  Kanithner 

VOLTERRA    Sig.  Otto.  Sola iNi.  [Strasse. 

WALDSHUTT Mr.  Fred.  Hoz, 

ZURICH  Mr.  HoNi.r.GEi:.FUcLi. 


1871. 


MUKRAV'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


5 


FLORENCE. 


TELEMACO  DI  G.  BIANCHINI, 

MANUFACTUllER  OF  TABLES  AKD  LADIES'  ORNAMENTS 

OF  FLORENTINE  MOSAIC, 

LUNG'  AKNO  NUOVO,  1,  AND  BORG'   OGNISSANTI,  2, 

TNVITES  the  English  Nobility  and  Gentry  to  visit  his  Establishment,  where 
■*-  may  always  be  seen  numerous  specimens  of  this  celebrated  and  beautiful 
Manufacture,  in  every  descri|)tion  of  Rare  and  Precious  Stones,  Ordei's  for  Tables 
and  other  Ornaments  executed  to  any  Design. 

T.  BiANCHiNi's  Correspondents  in  England  are  Messrs.  J.  &  R.  M'Cracken, 
38,  Queen  Street,  Cannon  Street,  EC,  London. 


BRIENZ-  INTERLACKEN. 


J.  GROSSMANN, 

SCULPTOR  IN  WOOD,  AND  MANUFACTURER  OF  SWISS 
WOOD  MODELS  AND  ORNAMENTS, 

Carved  and  Inlaid  Furniture  manufactured  to  any  Design^ 

AT    ZirT£RX.il.CaLEXr. 

HIS  WAREHOUSE  is  situated  between  the  Belvedere  Hotel  and  Schweizerhof, 
where  he  keeps  the  largest  and  best  assortment  of  the  above  objects  to  be 
found  in  Switzerland.     He  undertakes  to  forward  Goods  to  England  and  elsewhere. 

Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  &  R.  McCkacken,   38,  Queen  Street, 
Cannon  Street,  E.C.,  London.- 

PISA. 


-•c^ 


GIUSEPPE   ANDREONI, 

Sculptor  in  Alabaster  and  Marble  and  Objects 

of  Fine  Art, 

NO.    872,    VIA     SANTA     MARIA, 

WHERE 

A  GREAT  ASSORTMENT  OF  FINE  ARTS,  SCULPTURE,  &c., 

CAN  BE  SEEN. 

Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  .T.  &  R.  M'Cracken,  38,  Queen  Street, 

Cannon  Street,  E.C.,  London.  ^ 


9 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER, 


May, 


T  H   U   N. 


»  "  ■'♦ 


JEAN    KEHRLI-STERCHI, 


AND 


MANdTACTUBER  OF  SWISS  MODELS  AND  OEMMENTS, 

For  26  years  at  tlie  Woodwork  Establishment  at  the  Giesshach  Falls, 
eldest  son  of  the  founder  of  said  establishment, 

INVITES  the  attention  of  Enc;li?h  tourists  to  his  Establishment  at  the  Bellevue 
Hotel,  Thun,  where  a  choice  assortment  of  Swiss  Wood  Carvings  may  always 
be  seen.  , 

Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  &  R.  M'CUACKEN,  38,  Queen  Street, 
Caimon  Street,  London. 


MUNICH. 


WIMMER    &    CO., 

GALLERY    OF    FINE   ARTS. 

3,  BRIENNER  STREET, 

Invite  the  Nobility  and  Gentry  to  visit  their  Gallery  of  Fine  Arts,  containing 

an  P2xtensive  Collection  of 

MODERN       PAINTINGS 

by  the  best  Munich  Artists, 

PAIWTllVCSS     ON     FORCE  f.AIIV     ANO     ON     tJI.A!««iS?. 

also  a  large  Assortment  of 

PHOTOGRAPHS, 

including  the  complete  Collections  of  the  various  PnMio  Galleries. 


•V  - .  -\^_-».'*y*, ' 


Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  &  R.  M'Crackkx,  38,  Queen  Street, 
Cannon  Street,  E.C.,  London, 

Con-espondents  in  the  United  States,  Messrs.  KelLER  &  LiNGG,  97,  I^eade 
Street,  Jsew  York. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


O  E  IV  O  A. 


HORACE  AUGUSTE  MOSSA, 


criE^w^EXjXjEiE/, 


Mil) 


MANUFACTURER  OF  GOLD  AND  SILVER  FILAGREE  WORK, 

Which  obtained  PRIZE  MEDAL  at  the  Universal  Exhibition 

of  London  in  1851. 


His  Establisluucuts  arc  situated  in  the  Grande  Alborgo  dltalia 
and  Albergo  Croce  di  Malta,  in  Via  del  Campo,  near  the  Porta  di 
Vacca ;  he  also  keeps  a  Depository  in  the  Grapde  Albergo  di  Genova. 
He  undertakes  the  execution  of  all  Commissions  with  exactitude, 
and  guarantees  his  Works  to  be  of  pure  Gold  and  Silver,  and  Silver 
doublv  <^ilt.  Travellers  are  invited  to  visit  his  Establishments  without 
obligation  to  luirchase. 

Correspondents  in  Enaland -Messrs.  J.  &  R.  MeCHACK^Ii", 
38,  Queen  Street,  Cannon  Street,  E.C.,  London. 

rTtENNANT,  geologist,  149,  STRAND,  LONDON, 

W  0.  gives  practical  Instruction  in  Miiieralopy  and  Geology.    He  can  also  supply 
Elementary  Collections  of  Minerals.  Rocks,  ami  Fossils,  on  the  following  terms:— 

100  Small  Specimens,  in  cabinet,  with  three  trays £2    2    0 

*200  Specimens,  larger,  in  cabinet,  with  five  trays ^    ^    2 

300  Specimens,  larger,  in  Cinbinot,  with  eight  drawers        .     .     .     .      10  16    0 
400  Specimens,  larger,  in  cabinet,  with  twelve  drawers     .     .     .     .     21     0    0 
More  extensive  collections,  to  illustrate  Geology,  at  50  to  lUO  Gumeas  each,  -with  every 
re.misite  to  assist  those  commeneiiig  the  study  of  this  interesting  science,  a  knowledge  of 
which  affords  so  much  pleasure  to  the  traveller  in  all  parts  ot  the  world.  ^     .        ^ 

•  \  collection  for  Five  Guineas  wliich  will  illustrate  the  recent  works  on  Geology  by 
Ansted.  Buckland,  Jukes,  Lyell,  Murchlson.  Page,  Phillips,  and  contains  200  Specimens,  in 
a  cabinet,  with  five  trays,  comprising  the  following,  viz.:—  _    ^  ^^   ,  .    ., 

MiNEKALs  whicli  are  either  the  components  of  Rock?,  or  occasionally  imbedded  m  them  :— 
Quartz  Agate,  Chalcedony,  Jasper,  Garnet,  Zeolite,  Hornblende,  Augite,  Asbestus.  Felspar, 
Mica  Talc  Tourmaline.  Zircon,  lopaz,  Spinel,  Calcareous  Spar,  Fluor,  Selenite,  Baryta, 
Strontia,  Salt,  Cryolite,  Sulphur,  Plumbago,  Bitumen   Jet,  &c. 

Native  Metals  or  METALLiFEiiotrs  Minerals:  these  are  found  m  masses,  m  beds,  or  in 
veins  and  occasionally  in  the  bods  of  rivers.     Specimens  of  the  following  are  contained  in 
the  Oibinet :— Iron,  Manganese,  Lead,  Tin,  Zinc,  Copper,  Antimony,  Silver,  Gold,  Platina.&'c. 
Rock-*-— Granite,Gneiss.Mioa.slate,PorphyTy,Serpectine.Sandstones,Limestones,Lavas.xc. 
P  VI  iEOZoic  Fossils,  from  the  Llandeilo.VVenlock, Ludlow,  Devonian,  and  CarboniferousRocks, 
sixoxuvRV  Fossils,  from  the  Triivs,  Li;vs,  Oolite,  Wealden.  and  Crctace(jus  Groups. 
Tkktiary  Fossil^,  from  theWoolwich,  Barton,  and  Bracklesham  Beds,  London  Clay.Crag,  &c. 
In  the  more  expensive  Collections  eomc  of  the  Specimens  are  rare,  and  all  more  select. 
ELEMENTARY  LECTURES  ON  MINIIRALOGY  AND  GEOLOGY, 
adapted  to  young  persons,  are  given  by  J.  TENNAN T,  F.R.G.S.,  at  his  residence,  149, 
STRAND   W  C    and  Prfvate  instrcctiox  to  Travellers,  Engineers,  Emigrants,  Landed 
Proprietors,  and  others,  illustrated  by  an  extensive  collection  of  Specimens.  Dlagi-ams, 

AU  aie'*r'ecent  works  relating  to  Mineralogy,  Geology,  Conchology.  and  Chemistry;  also 
Geolo'^ical  Maps,  Models,  Diagrams.  Hammers,  Blowpipes,  Magnifying  Glasses,  Platina  Spoons, 
Electrometer  and  Magnetic  Needle,  Glass-top  Boxes,  Microscopic  Objects,  Acid  BotUes,  &c., 
can  be  supplied  to  the  Student  in  these  interesting  and  important  branches  of  Science. 


MUURAY'S  IIANDDOOK  ADVERTISER. 


COLOGNE     ON     THE     RHINE. 


Mav, 


JOHANN  MARIA  FARINA, 
GEGENiJBER   DEM   JULICII'S   PLATZ 

(Opposite  the  JUlich's  Place), 

PURVEYOR    TO    H.    M.    QUEEN    VICTORIA; 

TO  H.  R.  H.  THK  PRINCE  OF  WALES ; 

TO   H.   M.  THE  KINO  OF  PRUSSIA;    THE   EMPEROR  OF   RUSSIA; 

THE  EMPEROR  OK  FPvAXCE; 
THE  KING  OF   DENMARK,  ETC.  ETC., 

OF   THK 

ONLY  GENUINE  EAU  DE  COLOGNE, 

Which  obtained  the  only  I'rize  Medal  awarded  to  Eau  de  Cologne  at  the  Paris  Exhibition 


'PHE  frequency  of  mistakes,  which  are  sometimes  accidental,  but  for  the  most 
jL     part  the  result  of  deception  practised  by  interested  individuals,  induces  me  to  request 
the  attention  of  English  travellers  to  the  following  statement : — 

The  favourable  reputation  whiclj  my  Eau  de  Cologne  has  acquired,  since  its  invention  by 
my  ancestor  in  the  year  1709,  has  induced  many  people  to  imitate  it;  and  in  order  to  be  able 
to  sell  their  spurious  article  more  easily,  and  under  pretext  that  it  was  genuine,  they  pro- 
cured themselves  a  firm  of  Farina,  by  entering  into  partnership  with  persons  of  my  name, 
which  Is  a  very  common  one  in  Italy. 

Persons  who  wish  to  purchase  the  genuine  and  original  Eau  de  Cologne  ought  to  be  jwirti- 
cular  to  see  that  the  labels  and  the  bottles  have  not  only  my  name,  Johann  Maria  Farina, 
but  also  the  additional  words,  gegeniiber  dem  Julich's  I'latz  (that  is,  opposite  the  Julich's 
Place),  without  addition  of  any  number. 

Travellers  visiting  Cologne,  and  intending  to  buy  my  genuine  article,  are  cautioned  against 
being  led  astray  by  cabmen,  guides,  commissioners,  and  other  parties,  who  ofler  their  services 
to  them.  I  therefore  beg  to  state  that  my  manufacture  and  shop  are  in  the  same  house, 
situated  opposite  the  Julich's  Place,  and  nowhere  else.  It  happens  too,  frequently,  that  the 
said  persons  conduct  the  uninstructed  strangers  to  shops  of  one  of  the  fictitious  firms,  where, 
notwithstanding  assertion  to  the  contrarj',  they  are  remunerated  with  nearly  the  half  part  of 
the  price  paid  by  the  purchaser,  who,  of  course,  must  pay  indirectly  this  remimeration  by  a 
high  price  and  a  bad  article. 

Another  kind  of  imposition  is  practised  in  almost  every  hotel  in  Cologne,  where  waiters 
commissioners,  &c.,  offer  to  strangers  Eau  de  Cologne,  pretending  that  it  is  the  genuine  one 
and  that  I  delivered  it  to  them  for  the  purjwse  of  selling  it  for  my  account. 

The  only  certain  way  to  get  In  Cologne  my  genuine  article  is  to  buy  it  personally  at  my 
house,  opposite  the  JUlich's  Place,  forming  the  comer  of  the  two  streets,  Unter  Goldschmidt 
and  Oben  Marspforten,  No.  23,  and  having  in  the  front  six  balconies,  of  which  the  three 
bear  my  name  and  firm,  Johann  Maria  Farina,  Gegeniiber  dem  Julich's  Platz. 

The  excellence  of  my  manufacture  has  been  put  beyond  all  doubt  by  the  fact  that  the 
Jurors  of  the  Great  Exhibitions  in  I^ndon,  1«51  and  I8G2,  awarded  to  me  the  Prize  Medal  ; 
that  1  obtained  honourable  mention  at  the  Great  Exhibition  in  Paris,  1865;  and  received 
the  only  Prize  Medal  awarded  to  Eau  de  Cologne  at  the  Paris  Exhibition  of  18G7,  and  iu 
Oporto  1865. 

Cologne,  January,  1869.  JOHANN  MARIA  FARINA, 

GEGENUBER  DEM  JULICH'S  PLATZ. 

•»*  My  Agency  in  London  is  at  Messrs.  J.  &  R.  M'Cracken,   38,    Queen 

Street^  Cannon  Street^  E.C, 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


PRAGUE. 


0 


WILLIAM   HOFMANN, 

BOHEMIAN    GLASS    MANUFACTURER, 

TO  HIS  MAJESTY  THE  EMPEROR  OF  AUSTRIA, 

HOTEL   BLUE  STAR, 

Recommends  his  great  assortment  of  Glass  Ware,  from  his  own  Manufactories  in 
Bohemia.  The  choicest  Articles  in  every  Colour,  Shape,  and  Description,  are  sold, 
at  the  same  moderate  prices,  at  his  Establishments. 

Correspondents  in  London,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M'CRACKEN,  38,  Queen  Street, 
Cannon  Sti-eet,  E.C.      Q  cods  forwarded  direct  to  England^  America,  4'C' 


FLORENCE. 


JOHN  AGLIETTI  AND  SONS, 

ARTISTS, 

GROUND  FLOOR,  No.  15,  VIA  MAGGIO, 

Have  a  large  Collection  of  Ancient  and  Modern  Original  Paintings,  and  also  Copies 
trom  the  most  celebrated  Mastere. 

Copies,  Carved  Frames,  Gilt  or  Plain,  made  to  order,  and  forwarded  with 
despatch  to  all  parts  of  the  world. 

Correspondents  iu  England,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M'CRACKEN,  of  No.  38,  Queen 
Street,  Cannon  Street,  E.C,  London. 


VI  E  N  NA. 


The    most   extensive   Warehouse  for  Bohemian   While    and    Coloured 

Crystal  Glass. 

J.  &  L.   LOBMEYR, 

GLASS      MANUFACTURERS, 

No.  13,  KARNTHNERSTRASSE. 

All  kinds  of  Bohemian  White  and  Coloured  Crystal  Glass;  Table,  Dessert,  nnd 
other  Services ;  Vases,  Candelabras,Chandeliers,  Looking-glasses;  Articles  of  Luxury, 
in  Crystal  Glass,  mounted  in  Bronze,  and  in  Carved  Wood.  They  obtained  the 
Prize  Medal  at  the  International  Exiiibitions  of  1862  and  1867. 

The  prices  are  fixed  at  very  moderate  and  reasonable  charges. — The   English 

language  is  spoken. 

Their  Correspondents  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  !M*Cracken,  No.  38, 
Queen  Street,  Cannon  Street,  E.C,  London,  will  transmit  all  orders  with  the 
o^reatest  care  and  attention. 


10 


MURRArs  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


FLORENCE. 


MESSRS.  COSTA  &  CONTI, 

A  E  T  I  S  T  S, 
No.   8,   VIA   ROMANA, 

Opposite  the  Museum  of  Natural  History  (^Specola'),  and  near  the  Pitti  Gallery. 

Messrs.  Costa  and  Conti   ke<^p   the  largest   collection   in  Florence  of  original 
Ancient  and  Modem  Pictures,  as  well  as  Copies  of  all  the  most  celebrated  Masters. 

N.B. — English  spoken. 

Con-espondenls  in  England,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M'CRACKEN,  38,  Queen  Street, 
Cannon  Street,  E.C.,  London. 

STOCKHOLM. 


C.  E.  FRIT^E, 

BOOKSELLEB, 
tJlTSTAVE     AMOIiFSi     TOUO    (Square), 

(NEXT  HOUSE  TO  THE  RYDBElir,  HOTEL). 

'     Scandinavian,  English,  French,  and  German  Books. 

TRAVELLING  MAPS  AND   HANDBOOKS. 

Views  of  Stockholm,  and  Swedish  and  ISTorwegian  Peasant 
Costumes,  in  Photograph  and  Lithograph. 

"BRADSHAW'S  RAILWAY  GUIDE"  and  "HENDSCHEL'S  TELEGRAPH." 

C.  E.  FEITZE,  Eookseller,  (justaf  Adolfs  Torg,  Stockholm. 

VENICE. 


CARLO    rONTI, 

OPTICIAN     AND     PHOTOGRAPHER, 

Who  gained  the  Prize  IMedal  at  the  International  Exhibition  of  1862,  and  whose 
House" is  acknowledged  to  be  the  fii-st  of  the  kind  in  the  City,  is  the  Inventor  of 
the  Optical  Instrument  known  under  the  name 

MEGALETHOSCOFE, 
(first  called  Alethoscope),  the  most  i)erfc':t  instrument  for  magnitying  photographs 
and  showing  them  with  the  effects  of  night  and  day.     His 

ISOPEEISCOPIC  SPECTACLES 
gained  Medals  at  the  Exhibitions  of  Paris  and  Padua,  and  were  pronounced  by  the 
scientific  bodies  to  be  superior  in  principle  to  all  others,  as  well  as  being  more 
moderate  in  price. 

His  Photographic  Establishment  is  in  the  Piazza  San  Marco,  Ko.o2,  near  the  Cafe 
Florian ;  and  his  Optical  Establishment  at  Riva  del  Schiavoni,  No.  4180,  near  the 
Albergo  Reale. 

Correspondents  in  London,  Messrs.  J.  and  R.  M'CkaCKEN,  38,  Queen  Street, 
annon  Street,  E.C. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


U 


FRANKFORT. 


P.  A.  TACCHrS  SUCCESSOR, 


XKilj,  ]Vo.  4L4L, 


WAlEJEieiUSlSo 


p.  A.  TACCHI'S  SUCCESSOR,  Manufacturer  of  Bohemian 
Glass,  begs  to  acquaint  the  Public  that  he  has  always  an  extensive 
Assortment  in  the  Newest  and  most  Elegant  Designs  of 

ORNAMENTAL  CUT,  ENGKAVED,  GILT,  &  PAINTED  GLASS, 

BOTH  WRITE  AND  COLOURED, 

In  Dessert  Services,  Chandeliers,  Candelabraa,  Articles  for  the  Tabic 
and  Toilet,  and  every  possible  variety  of  objects  in  this  beautiful 
branch  of  manufacture.  He  solicits,  and  will  endeavour  to  merit,  a 
continuance  of  the  favours  of  the  Public,  which  he  has  enjoyed  in 
so  high  a  degree  during  a  considerable  number  of  years, 

P.  A.  Tacchi's  SuccESsoii  has  a  Branch  Establishment  during  the 
Summer  Season  at 

WIESBADEN,  in  the  Old  Colonnade,  No.  1, 

OPPOSITE  THE  THEATRE, 

Where  wiH  always  be  found  an  extensive  Selection  of  the  newest 
Articles  from  his  Frankfort  Establishment. 

Visitors  to  Frankfort  should  not  fail  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  Show 
Rooms  of  Mr.  P.  A.  Tacchi's  Successor. 

His  Correspondent  in  England,  to  whom  he  undertakes  to  forward 
Purchases  made  of  him,  is  Mr.  LOUIS  HENLE,  3,  Budge 
Eow,  Cannon  Street,  London,  E.C. 


12 


MUKKAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEUTISEH. 


Alav, 


CHARLES    CAER  &  CO., 

(Mr.  CAiui,  lite  of  the  Firm  nf  orrv//:n  4-  cahj;), 

14,  BISHOPSGATE  STEEET  WITHIN,  LONDON,  E.G., 

COMMISSION      MERCHANTS, 

General  Agents  for  the  Reception  and  Shipment  of  Goods  from 

and  to  all  Parts  of  the  World, 


AND 


WINE    MERCHAISTS. 

pIlAKLES  CAiai  &  CO.  have  the  lionoiir  to  iiifonn 

^  VISITORS    TO    THE    CONTINENT, 

tliat  they  iC( oive  and  pass  through  the  Custom  House  in  London,  l.ivor]ii)ol, 

Southampton,  &c., 

WOBKS  of  Art,  BAGGAGE,  ard  PEOPERTY  of  EVERY  DESCRIPTION ; 

which  are  attended  to  on  Arrival  under  their  lVrson:»l  Stipcrinteiidence, 
with  the  utmost  Care  in  Examination  and  Removal, 

AXD  AT 

very  Moderate  Charges, 
regulated  accorduig  to  the  value  of  tiie  Package?,  and  the  cue  and  altenticn 

required. 

Keys  of  all  locked  PttckHo;e3  should  be  sent  to  C.  C.  «!i:  Co.,  as  evcivthiiic:  must  be 
examined  on  arrival,  althoufih  not  liable  to  dutv, 

CHARLES  CAKR  &  CO.  also  undertake  tiic 
FOKWAEDING   OF   PACKAGES   OF   EVEEY  KIND, 

which  can  be  sent  to  the  care  of  tiieir  Correspondents,  to  remain,  if  required,  until 

applied  for  by  the  owners  ;  also 

THE  EXECUTION  of  OEDEKS  for  the  PUECHASE  of  GOODS, 

of  all  kinds,  which  fiom  their  long  experience  as  Commission  Merchants,  they  are 
enabled  to  buy  en  the  most  advantageous  terms. 

Residents  on  the  Continent  will  tlnd  this  a  convenient  means  of  ordering  anything 

they  may  require  iVom  London, 


INSURANCES    EFFECTED,   AND   AGENCY   BUSINESS  OF  EVERY 

DESCRIPTION   ATTENDED  TO. 


Packages  Warkhoused  at  Modkkate  Rates  of  Rent. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


13 


€IIA$9.   €ARR   Sc   CO.  S    principal  C  orr«-spondcat»   are — 


At  Aix-la-ChapcUe 
„  Antioerp    . 
„  BasU    . 
„  Berlin 
„  Bologna     . 
„  Bordeaux  . 
„  Boulogne   . 
„  Brussels     . 
„  Calais .     . 
„  Cologne 
„  Dresden 
„  FUirencc    . 
„  FrankforL 
„  O'eneca 
„  Genoa  . 
„  Hamburg  . 
„  Ilacrt  . 
,.  Jnterlacheii 
„  Leipzig      . 
„  lAghorn    . 
„  Malta  . 
„  Marsetlirs  . 
„  Milan  . 
„  Munich 
„  Naples 
„  Nice      .     . 
„  Ostend 
„  Paris    . 


Pau      .     . 

Prague 
Borne    . 
Rotterdam 
Turin  . 
Venice  .     . 


Vienna 

Any  other  houses 
Travellers  are  reque 


Messrs.  A.  SOUHKUK  and  CO. 
Metsrs.  VLEU(JEI^  and  CO. 
Mr.  J,  WILD,  12, Steincnthorstrasse. 
Mr.  J.  A.  FISCHEK.  Agent  to  the  Conrt. 
Messrs.  ANTON  10  MAZZK  i'Tl  and  CO. 
Messrs.  ALBRECHT  and  FILS. 
Messrs.  L.  BRANLY  and  CO.,  «1,  Rue  Napoleon. 
Mr.  G.  LUYCKX,  24,  Rue  des  Fabriques, 
Messrs.  L.  J.  VOG  CJ  E  and  CO. 
Messrs.  C.  H.  VAN  ZUTPHEN  and  CO. 
Mr.  R.  WEIGANI);  Mes.sr6.  SCHEFFLEU,  SIEG,  &  CO. 
Messrs.  IIASKARD  and  SON. 
Mr.  MARTIN  BICCKER,  5,  Bleidenstrasse. 
Messrs.  JOEIMAY  and  CO. ;  Mr.  I'm:.  STRASSE. 
Mr.  E.  MOLO;  Mr.  J.  V.  BUG H LI. 
Messrs.  HOFMEiS  I'ER.  SCHEFFLER,  and  SIEG. 
Messrs.  CHR.  EGLIN  and  MARING. 
Mossr.<.  RlTSCHARl)  and  BQRKl. 
Messrs.  GERHARD  and  HEY. 
Messrs.  J.  IHOMSON  HENDERSON  and  CO. 
Messrs.  ROSE  and  CO 
Messrs.  GHIAUD  FHERES. 
Messrs.  G.  HONO  and  CO..  s,  Via  A<;nello. 
Messrs. GUTLli BEN  and  VVEIDERT. 
Messrs.  CERULLI  and  CO. ;  Mr.  G.  CiVALLERF. 
Messrs.  M.  and  N.  GIORDAN,  Quai  Lunel,  14  (sur  le  Port.) 
Mr.  J.  DL'CLOS  ASSANDRL 
Messrs.  J.  ARTHUR  and  CO..  10,  Rue  Castiglione. 
M.  HECrOR  L'UERBIER,  18,  Rue  de  la  J^ouane. 
Mr.  BERGEROr. 

Mr.  J.  J.  SEIDL,  Hibernergasse,  No.  1000. 
Mr.  J.  R.  SHEA.  11,  I'iaz/.a  di  Spa^na;  Mr.  A.  TOM  BINE 
Mr.  J.  A.  HOUWENS;  Messrs.  P.  A.  VAN  ES  and  CO. 
Mr.  0.  A.  RxVTl  I. 
Mr.  GAETANO  PIEIROBONI. 
Mr.  Fo"  TOLOMEl  Dl  F^" 

Mr.  ANTON  POKORNY,  Stadt  Sonnenfelsgasse  2. 
will  also  forward  goods  to  C.  C.  &  Co.,  on  receiving  instructions  to  do  so. 
ted  always  to  give  particular  directions  that  their  Packages  are  consigned 


direct  to  CH.\S.  CARR  k  CO,  14,  Bishopsgate  Street  Within. 

PRICE    LIST    OF   WINES 

JMJ'ORTED    UY 

CHARLKS     CARK     AXD     CO., 

AG  EN  IS  TO  GROWERS.  JVr  dozen. 

CliARETS— M(Hl(>c i.'i*.  toJ4*. 

St.  Estf'phe,  Mari;:iu.\,  &c 'Ms.  to  30*- 

St.  Jiili.n,  A:c.     ' 42.<!. 

Other  Qualities     ....  48s.  to  15C'.«. 

BURGUNDIES— l^auno 24s.  to  30s. 

Vol  nay 36s.  to  42s. 

OiherQ'ialilics 48s.  to  84 s. 

C  hablis 30».  to  54s. 

HOCK— Oppenheira 2I». 

Nierstein 30s. 

Hochheim 36s.  to  42s. 

Other  Onaliti.  s 48s.  to  120s. 

SPARKLING  HOCK  and  MOSELIiE 42s.  to  54s. 

CHAM-PAGNE 42s.  to  72s. 

SH»*:RRIES— Pale,  Gold,  &c 36s.  to  60s. 

PORT 


36s.  to  72s. 

Fine  Old  Vinta-e  Wines S4s.  to  126s. 

MARSALA 26s.to30«. 

AND  OTHER  WINES. 
Clarets,  Burgundies,  Sl.errics.  &c.,  by  the  Hogshead  or  Half-Hogshead  at  reducfd  Prices. 
hftailed  Price  Lists  vxay  be  obtaned  of  C  CAHIi  ds  Co.,  It,  Bishopsgate  Stmt  Within. 


14 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


R  o  m  £. 


J.    p.    SHEA, 

ENGLISH    HOtrSE-AGENT, 

FORWARt>ING  AGENT 
TO   H.R.H.   THt:    PRINCE    OF    WALES, 

11,  PIA2ZA  Dl  SPAGNA. 

At  this  Office  pei-sons  apply  ins;  for 

Large  or  Small  Furnished  Apartments 

inv.irinWy  obUiiii  correct  and  unbiassed  information  on  all  matters  connected  witli 

Lodging-HouseSj  Boatding-Houses, 

and 

Household  Management, 

while 

Low  and  Fixed  Charges 

for  practical  services  offer  safe  and  satisfactoiy  assistimce  to  Proprietor  and  Tenant, 

as  testilied  by  the  increasing  confidence  of  English  and  American  Travellei*s 

since  the  opening  of  the  establishhient  in  1852. 

Plans  and  Lists  of  Apdirtnieiits  sent  by  Post 

f  to  j>ersons  who  wish  to  secure  accommodation,  or  avoid  inconvenience  at  tile 

approach  of  Carnival  or  the  Holy  Week. 

AS  CUSTOM-HOUSE  AGENT, 

"Mil.  SilKA  clears  and  warehouses 

Baggage  and  other  eflfects 

for  trnvellei-s  who,  to  avoid  the  expense  of  quii-ix  transit,  send  their  things  by  sea  or 

luggage-train,  directed  to  his  care. 

He  also  superintends  the 

Packing  of  Works  of  Art  and  other  Property 

ihtrusted  to  his  care,  and  the  forwarding  of  the  same  to  England,  <Sic.  ;  and  being 

Agent  for  Messrs.  Burns  and  Mclvers'  Italian  line  of  steamers,  can  offer 

facilities  on  the  freight  of  packages  between  Italy  and  England. 


CORRESPONDENTS- 
LONDON Messrs.  J.  &  R.  M'CRACKKN'.  .1.^,  Queen  Street,  Cannon  Street,  K.C. 

JMessrs.  CIIAS.  CAIIR  &  CO,,  H,  Bishupsgate  Street  Within, 

BOULOGNE  s.  M Mr.  BERNARD,  is,  Quai  dcs  Paquebois. 

PARIS Messrs.  L'HKRBETTK,  KANK,  &  CO.,  8.  Place  de  la  Bourse, 

MARSKltXES  Messrs.  GIRAUD  FRERKS.  44.  Rue  Saiute. 

FLORENCE    Messrs.  HASlvARD  &  SON. 

NEW  YOUK Messrs.  AUSTIN,  BALDWIN,  &  CO;,  72,  Pro^wav, 

BOSTON,.,.. Messrs.  WEI.LS,  ^ARGO,  &  00. 


1871. 


MURRAFS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


15 


CHUBB'S  LOCteS  and  SAFES, 


Paris  Exhibition,  1867,  SILVER  PRIZE  MEDAL. 
Dublin  International  Exhibiuou,  1865,  PRIZE  MEDAL  AWARDED. 


-■►«>•- 


CHUBB    &    SON, 

BY  APrOlNTMKNTS, 

MAKERS  TO  THE  QUEEN,  AND  TO  H.R.H.  THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES. 
pHUBB'S   PATENT  DEIT.CTOR  LOCKS,  the  most  secure  from 

\J  picklocks  and  false  keys,  are  strons,  simple,  and  durable,  and  made  of  all  sizes  and  for 
every  purpose  to  which  a  Lock  can  be  applied. 

Tranks,  Portmanteaus,  TravellinK  Bags,  Dressing  Cases,  Writing  Desks,  <fec.,  fitte<l  with 
only  the  usual  common  and  utterly  insecure  Locks,  can  have  the  place  of  these  supplied  by 
CijCBB's  Patknt  without  alteration  or  injury. 

J'ravellkrs'  Ixx)K-PKc»TKC"TOits  and  I'ouTABLE  ScuTCHEON  LocKS  for  Securing  Doors  that 
may  be  found  fastened  only  by  common  I^ocks. 

CHUBB  <fe  SON  have  always  in  stuck  a  variety  of  Writing  and  Despatch  Boxes  in 
Morocco  or  Russia  Leather  and  Japanned  Tin ;  the  latter  being  particularly  recommended 
for  lightness,  room,  durability,  and  freedom  from  damage  by  in^ects  or  hot  climates. 

Best  Black  Enamelled  Leather  Travelling  Bags  of  varioup  sizes,  all  with 
Chubb's  Patent  Locks.     Cash,  Deed,  and  Paper  Boxes  of  all  dimensions. 

n  HUBB'S  PATENT  SAFES 

\J  are  constructed  in  the  very  best 
manner,  of  the  strongest  wrought  iron, 
fitted  with  Chubb's  Patent  DKiLL-pia> 
VENTIVK  and  their  Gunpowuek-pkoof 
Steel-plated  Locks,  are  the  most 
secure  from  fire  and  burglary,  and  form 
' '^  most  complete  safeguard  for  BcK)ks. 
.pers.  Deeds,  Jewels,  Plate,  and  other 
\  aluable  property. 

CHUBB  &  SON  have  also  strong 
wrought- iron  Sa.it^,  witliout  tire-resisting 
lining,  but  equally  secure  in  all  other 
respects,  intended  for  holding  pla  te  where 
protection  from  tire  is  not  an  object,  and 
affording  much  more  room  inside  than 
the  Pat^eut  Safes.  They  are  recom- 
mended specially  in  place^  of;the  ordinary  wooden  cases  for  plate,  which  may  so  easily  be 
broken  open.  

BUENOS  AYRES  GOVERNMENT  CEHTIFICATE. 
Tbaxslatiok. 
We,  the  undersigned,  at  the  request  of  Messrs.  Jas.  C.  Thompson  &  Co.,  certify  that  the 
Inox  Safes  of  THessrs.  Chubb  &  SoK,  London,  of  which  these  gentleman  are  Agents,  were 
exposed  for  several  hours  to  the  Fiie  that  took  place  in  the  offices  of  the  National  Govern- 
ment on  the  evening  of  the  26th  instant;  that  in  our  preseiice  they  were  easily  opened  with 
their  respective  keys:  that  the  moneys  and  important  documents  they  contained  were  lound 
in  perfect  order,  and  that  these  Safes  are  how  in  use  iii  the  National  TreaeUry  OflBce.— Buenos 
Ayres,  Slst  July,  1«67. 

(Signed)  J.  M.  Or  a  go.  Treasurer  of  the  National  Government 

JpSK  TOMAS  Rojo. 
Juan  M.  Alvakez.  a  true  copy— A.  M.  Bell. 

Complete  Illustrated  Priced  Lists  of  Chubb's  Locks,  Boxes,  Safes,  and  other  Manufactures, 

gratis  and  post-free. 

pHUBB  and  SON,  Makers  to  the  Bank  of  England, 

67,  St,  Paurs  Cburcbyard,  l^ondon,  B.C. 


16 


MUJillAY'S  HANDIiOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


VISITORS  TO  THE  CONTINENT. 


37,  Finsbury  Square,  London, 

(Mr.  Olivier  establisiikd  ln  1830,) 

COMMISSION   MERCHANTS  AND   GENERAL  AGENTS 

For  Shipment  and  deception  of  Goods  to  and  from  all  Parts  of  the  Worlds 
and  IMPORTERS  OF  WINES,  ^c- 

OLIVIER  &  CO.  have  the  honour  to  inform 
VISITORS   TO   THE    CONTINENT 

that  they  undertake  to  receive  an«l  pass  througli  the  Customhouse  in  London, 

Liverpool,  Southampton,  &c., 
WORKS  of  ART,  BAGGAGE,  and  PROPERTY  of  EVERY  DESCRIPTION, 

wliich  are  attended  to  on  arrival 

with  the  utmost  Care  in  Examination  and  Removal, 

under  their  own  personal  superintendence.     They  beg  to  call  particular  attention  to 

their  Moderate  Charges, 
which  have  given  universal  satisfaction. 

Many  Travellers  having   expressed   a   desire  to  know  in  anticipation  to  what 
expenses  their  Purchases  are  liable  on  arrival  in  England,  the  following 

Rates  of  Charges  on  the  Reception  of  Packages 

may  be  relied  upon,  for  Landing  from  the  Ship,  Clearing,  Delivery  in  London, 
and  Agency : — 

On  Trunks  of  Baggage about  9s.     each. 

On  Cases  of  Works  of  Art,  &c.,  of  moderate  size  and  value  .  alwut  ISs.         „ 
„  ,,  „  of  larger         „  „    20s.  to  SSs. 

On  very  large  Cases  of  valuable  Statuary,  Pictures,  &c.,  on  which  an  estimate 
cannot  well  be  given,  the  charges  will  depend  on  the  Ciire  and  trouble  retpiired. 
When  several  cases  are  sent  together  the  charges  are  less  on  each  case. 

OLIVIER  &  CO.  undertake  the 

FORWARDING  OF  PACKAGES  OF  EVERY  KIND 

to  the  Continent,  to  the  care  of  their  Corresj)ondents,  where  they  can  remain,  if 

required,  until  the  arrival  of  the  owners. 

Also 
THE  EXECUTION  OF  ORDERS  FOR  THE  PURCHASE  OF  GOODS 

of  all  kinds,  which,  from  their  long  exj»erience  as  Commission  Merchants,  they 
are  enabled  to  buy  on  the  most  advantageous  terms. 
Residents  on  the  Continent  will  find  this  a  convenient  means  of  ordering  any- 
thing they  may  require  from  London. 


N.B.— The  keys  of  locked  Packages  should  always  be  sent  to  Olivier  &  Co., 
as  everything,  although  free  of  duty,  must  be  examined  by  the  Customs  on  arrival. 

INSURANCES  EFFECTED,  and  Agency  Business  of  every  description 

attended  to. 


1871. 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


17 


OL.lVI£K 

At  Aix-la-ChapeJle 
Alexandria 
Antwerp  . 


Sc  CO.*iS  principal   Correnpomleuts  aire — 

.     Messrs.  A.  SOUHP:Ull  and  CO. 

.     Mr.  J.  \V.  HKOWNE. 

.     Mr.  F.  VKKELLKX  L-SERXAERl. 

Messi-s.  VLEUGELS  and  (30. 
.     Mr.  J.  J.  FREY, 

.     Messrs.  AX  ION  10  MAZZETTI  and  CO. 
.     Messrs.  H.  and  0.  BEYKKMAN  and  CO.,  Wine  G  rower o. 
.     Messrs.  L.  I.  VOGUE  and  Co. 
.     Mr.  G.  LUYCKX,  24,  Rue  des  Fabrlques. 

Mr.  L.  STEIN,  22,  Montagne  de  la  Cour. 
.     Messrs.  L.  1.  VOGUE  and  CO. 
.     Messrs.  C.  H.  VAN  ZUTPHEN  and  CO. 

Messrs.  G.  TILMRS  and  CO. 
.     Messrs.  VAUSAMACIiY  and  CO.,  Galata 
.     Messrs.  KRAE  I'SCHMER  and  CO. 
.     .Messrs.  HASKARD  and  SON,  4,  Borgo  SS.  AnosU-U. 

Messrs.  W.  H.  WCX)I)  and  CO. 
.     Mr.  MARl'lN  BPXKER,  5,  Bleidenstrasse. 

Mr.  MORITZ  B.  GOLDSCHMIDT,  Banker. 
.     Messrs.  JOLIMAY  and  CO. 
.     Messrs.  G.  B.  PRATOLONGO  and  CO. 

Messrs.  P.  CAUVIN,  DJAMANTI,  and  COS  I'A. 
.     Messrs.  JULIUS  \VlJSTKNFELD  and  CC-. 
.     Messrs.  CHR.  EG  LIN  and  MARIXG. 
.     Messrs.  RITSCIIARD  and  BURlvI. 
.     Messrs.  GERHARD  and  HEY. 
.     Messrs.  J.  THOMSON,  HENDERSON  and  CO. 
.     :Messrs.  ROSE  &  CO. 

.     Messrs.  GIKAUD  FRERES. 

Messrs.  HORACE  BOUCHET  and  CO. 
.     Messrs.  GiO.  CURTl  .Sc  FLi". 
.     Messrs.  GUTLEBEN  and  WEIDERT. 

C  Mr.  G.  CIVALLERI,  267,  Riviera  di  Chiaja. 
•  I  Messrs.  CERULLI  &  CO.,  29,  VitUjvia.  [le  Port. 

.     Messrs.  LH:S  FILS  DE  CH.  GIORDAN,  Quai  Lunel,  14  (sur 
.     Mr.  J.  DUCLOS  ASSANDRI.  [Martin,  43. 

.     Messrs.  LANGLOIS  FILS  FRERES,  Rue  des  Marais'  St*. 

M.  HECTOR  L'HERBIER,  18,  Rue  de  laDouane. 
.     Mr.  BERGEROT. 

,     Mr.  J.  J.  SEIDL,  Hibemergasse,  No.  1000. 
.     Mr.  J.  P.  SHEA,  li,  Piazza  di  Spagna. 

Mr.  A.  TOMBINI.  2:j,  Place  St.  Louis  des  Frangais. 
.     Mr.  J.  A.  HOUWENS;  Messrs.  P.  A.  VAN  ESandCO. 
.     Messrs.  MARTIN  FRERES. 
.     Mr.  C  HI  A  BOIX)  PI  E  FRO,  Via  Dora  Grossa,  13. 
.     Mr.  HENRY  DECOPPEr.    Mr.  F^'^  TOEOMEI  DI  F"* 
.     Mr.  ANTON  POKORNY,  Stadt  Sonnenfelsgasse,  2. 

Any  other  houses  will  also  forward  goods  to  0.  &  C.  on  receiving  instructions 
to  do  so.  Travellers  are  ivquosted  always  to  give  particular  directions  that  their 
Packages  are  consigned  direct  to  OLIVIER  &  CO.,  37,  FINSBURY  SQUARE. 

PRICES  OF     ^^  I    N    E  S    I^'Il*t>l^  rK^^  BY 

OLIVIER  AND  CO., 

AGKNTS    TO    GROWERS. 

— o —  per  doz.  duty  paid. 

Claret,  Shipped  by  F.  Beyernaati,  Bordeaux 18s.,  24s.,  30s.,  36s.,  to  120;. 

Burgrundy      „      Dumoulin  aine,  Savigny-sous-Boaune    .  24«,,  28«.,  36s.,  to  84fi. 

Hock  ^  Moselle,  Jodocius  Freres  &  Co.,  Coblentz    .     .  24«.,  30s.,  36s.,  to  120s. 

„  Sparkling,  „  .     .  48s.  to  60s. 

Cbampag-ne 48s.  to  I2s. 

Marsala,  in  i^r.  Casks,  from  ib"ll ;  Hhds.  £21     .     .     .•    .  26s.  to  30s. 

Sherries,  Pale,  Gold,  or  Brown,  in  Qr.  Casks,  £15  to  £35,  delivered  42s.  to  60». 

Clabbt,  Burgundy,  and  Hock,  In  the  Wood,  at  Growers'  Prices. 

Detailed  Price  Lists  may  be  had  of  0.  &  Co.,  37,  Fimbury  Square, 

0 


Basle  .  . 
Fiologna  . 
Honieatix 
Boulogne . 
Brussels  . 

Calais 
Cologne    . 

(Constantinople 
Dresden   . 
Florence  . 

Frankfort 

Geneva     . 
Genoa 

ITambarg 
Havre 
Interlachen 
Leipzig     . 
Leghorn    . 
Malta 

MarseiUes 


Milan . 
Munich, 

Xaple^ 

Nice  . 
Ostcnd 

Paris  . 

Pau  . 
Prague 
Rome  . 

Rotterdam 

Trieste 
Turin 
Venice 
Vienna    . 


18 


MUrirvAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEIiTISER. 


Mny, 


ZURICH. 


HOTEL   DE   L'EPEE  AU  LAC. 

Ill  the  midst  of  the  Town,  at  tlie  Weill  Square  on  the  Lnke.  High  roomed  and 
well  aiied  House.  A  magnificent  View  from  the  Tenace  over  the  Alps  and  Lake, 
especially  u]>on  the  Mountain  of  Zurich,  and  from  the  Glacier  Glarnish  to  the 
'P'ti ' 

DINNER     AT     EVERY     HOUR. 

OMNIBUS    AT   THK    STATION. 


ANGLO-ITALIAN     BANK 

(LIMITED). 

London  Office       -  -  16,  Leadenhall  Street. 

Florence  Branch  -  -  3,  Piazza  San  Gaetaffo. 

Naples  Branch      -  -  Piazza  del  Municipio. 

Genoa  Agency      -  -  10,  Piazza  Senole  Piz. 

This  Bank  issues  Letters  of  Credit  on  its  Brandies  and 
Agencies  in  Ital}^  Avhicli  casli  Bank  of  England  and  Circnlar 
Notes  of  the  principal  London  Banks. 

Aberdeen  Polished  Granite  Monuments, 

FROM    £5. 

LkTTEK    ClTriNT,    ACCIRAIK    AXU    TJeAI  TIFl'L. 

Best  Quality  Granite  autl  Mm-l-ic  li'<>r/c  ofallliiuJs. 
Iron  Kalliiigs  a.i  J  .' omb  Furnishings  tittetl 
complete 
IMans.   Price-;,  and  Carria>;e  free  Terms  to  all  parts    r| 
of  the  World,  from 

LEGGE,    SCULPTOR,       f 


MAYENCE. 


HOTEL    I>'A1V&LET1i:R.3RE. 

HENRY  SPECHT,  Wine  Merchant  and  Grower. 

This  first-rate  and  excellent  Hotel  (combininsr  every  English  comfoi-t),  situated 
in  front  of  the  Bridge,  is  the  nearest  Hotel  to  tiie  Steamboats  and  close  to  the 
Bailway  Stations.  From  its  Balconies  and  Kooms  are  Picturesque  Views  of  tht 
Uhine  and^  ^lountains.  Gali</nani,  Times,  and  Illustrated  News  taken  in.  The 
i'able-d'Hote  is  renowned  for  its  excellence,  and  tor  its  Genuine  Ehenish  Wines 
und  Sparkling  Hock,  which  Mr.  Sperht  exports  to  Enginnd  nt  Wholesale  Prices. 


1871. 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


19 


GEN  EVA. 

♦    ■■ 

F.    GRIVAZ, 

MANUFACTURING    JEWELLER, 

No.  10,  GRAND   QUAI. 


Onlt^  Proprietor  of  the  celebrated  Grotto 
de  Topozes  discovered  in  A^tgnst, 
18G8,  in  the  Mountains  d'.c  Galan- 
stoch.  Canton  d'  Uri. 

An  immense  choice  of  .Jewels  in  the  first 
taste  will  be  found  here,  and  all  the 
Oriental  Stones  mounted  and  unmounted. 
This  house  was  founded  in  1837, 
and  is  highly  recommended  by  the  nu- 
merous travellers  who  have  visited  it. 


CABY'S    IMPBOVin)    POCKET 
TOURIST'S   TELESCOPE. 

(See  '  JH array's  Handbook.') 
MA^'UFACTURER  of  dll  descnpUous  of  Mathe- 
matical, Surveying,  and  Optical  Instruments, 
for  the  U8e  of  Naval  and  .Military  Officers,  &c. 
Also  the  new  Binocular  Reconnoitring  Field 
Glass,  in  Aluminivim  of  exceeding  lightness 
and  durability,  so  highly  spoken  of  by  officers 
and  other  gentlemen  ;  from  1l.  Is. ;  ordinary 
metal  from  2l.  lOs.  Gary's  improved  Achro- 
matic Microscope,  with  two  seta  of  choice 
lenses,  capable  of  defining  the  severe  test 
objects;  from  21.  15s.  Travelling  Spectacles 
ot  all  kinds. 

Mathematical  and  Optical  Instrument 
Maker  by  special  appointment  to  the  War 
Office,  Admiralty,  Trinity  House,  Royu 
Military  College,  Sandhurst,  Royal  Geogra- 
phical Society,  Christ's  Hospiul,  Trunty 
House,  King's  College.  &c. ;  and  Optician  to 
the  Royal  London  Ophthalmic  Hospital. 

GOULD  &  POllIKK.  Successors  to  CARY, 

181,  STRAND,  LONDON. 
Established  upwards  of  a  Century. 


ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH,    LEICESTERSHIRE. 


ROYAL    HOTEL, 

FAMILY,  COMMERCIAL,  AND  POSTING  HOUSE. 

E.  H.  MILLS,  Proprietor. 

This  tirst-rate  and  old-established  Fomily  and  Commercial  Hotel,  within  t\V(J 
minutes'  walk  of  the  Kailwny  Station,  and  adjoining  the  celebrated  1VA^'H0^^ 
BATHS,  will  be  found  replete  with  every  comfort,  combined  with  economy,  for 
the  rec.eption  of  Families  and  Visitors. 

FRANKFORT   O.    M. 


-•o*- 


MR.    C.    A.    LOHR, 

PKOPRIKTOR  OF 

THE  ROMAN  EMPEROR  HOTEL, 

Begs  to  recommend  his  House  to  English  Travellers. 
'1'^HIS  large  and  well-situated  Establishment  is  conducted  under  the  inmiediuttf 
A     superintendence  of  the  Proprietor,  and  newly  furnished  with  every  comfort, 
and  a  new  splendid  Dining-room. 

The  "  Roman  Emperor"  is  often  honoured  by  Royal  Families  and  other  high 
personages.     The  following  have  lately  honoured  this  Hotel — 

H.M.  THE  KINO  AND  QUEEN  OF  AVURTEMBERG. 

H.M.  THE  QUEEN  OF  HOLLAND. 

H.R.H.  THE  CROWN  PRINCE  AND  PRINCESS  OLGA  OF  WUETEMBERa 

H.I.H.  THE  ARCHDUKE  OF  AUSTRIA.    &c.  &c.  &c. 

Table-d'bOte  at  1,    111.   30kr.  Breakfast,  4b2kr. 

^       „        5,    2fl.  Tea,  ^2kr. 

Bed  Rooms,  from  Ifl.  to  3fla 

C  2 


20 


MURRArs  Handbook  advertised. 


May, 


PASSPORT    AGENCY    OFFICE, 

\V.  J.  ADAMS,  59,  FLEET  STREET,  LONDON,  E.G. 
Regulations  gratis  for  obtaining  Foreign  Office  Passports. 
nOUNTRY  or  LONDON  Residents, 

\J  bv  forwardlnp  a.  Banker's  Application,  or 
Certificate  of  Jdtntity,  can  have  a  PASSPOIir 
obtained.  Countrj'  Residents,  by  this  arrangement, 
are  saved  the  trouble  of  a  personal  attendance. 

Fee  obtaining  I'assport,  is.  6(2. ;  Visas,  Is.  each. 

Passports  carefuVy  Mounted  and  Cased,  and 
Names  kttered  thereon  in  Gold. 

Passport  Cases  from  Is.  6d.  to  48.  6d.  each. 

THE   LATEST    EDITIONS   OF    MURRAY'S    HANDBOOKS. 

BRADSHAW'S  BRITISH  and  CONTINENTAL  GUIDES  and  HANDBOOKS 

to  France.  IJelKium.  Switzerland,  Italy,  Sfiaiu  and  Portugal,  Normandy,  Brittany,  I'yrol, 

Paris.  Turlv^'y,  Syria,  and  Palestine  (2  vols). 
Tourist's  Handbook  to  Great  Britain,  &c. 

Baei>ekeii's  Handbooks,  Ball's  Alpine  Guides,  Pack's  I^Tenees. 
Brakshaw's  CoMi'LfrrK  Phrase  Books,  French,  Italian,  Spanish,  and  German.     1*'.  each. 
BaAOsuAw's  0%'t'rlaiid  and  Through  Route  Guide  to  India,  China,  and  Australia,  6s. 
Bbadshaw's  Haudl>ooks  to  Bi>mbay,  Madras,  and  Bengal,  10s.  each. 

Kellak's,  Lktithold's,  and  Ziegler's  Maps  of  Swlt?erland.      Mavr's  Map  of  thk  Tvkol. 
Knapsacks,  Rurs,  Waterproof  Coat^s,  Door-fasteners.  Handbags,  Portmanteaus,  Straps,  Soap, 

Compasses,  Drinking  Cups,  Courier  Bags,  Glycerine,  ike. 
IIakpkr  k  Applkton's  HAKDnooK  to  Kurope  and  the  East. 
Black's  Gl'idks  to  England,  Ireland,  Wales,  and  Scotland. 
O'Shea's  Spain  and  Portugal. 
I'hraae  Books  end  Dictionaries. 

Experienced  Couriers  engaged  upon  application. 


GENEVA. 


♦  «■ 


HOTEL   DES    BERGUES. 

F.  WACHTER,  rROPRiETOH. 


In  a  matcliless  position,  and  of  European  reputation,  this 
large  First-class  Hotel  was  entirely  re-arranged  and  freshly 
decorated  in  1870,  with  the  addition  also  of  a  new  superb 
*'  Salox  de  Conversation." 

Unrivalled  for  its  fine  Cellar  of  Wines,  its  Dinners,  and 
prompt  attendance. 

*—    ■■■■^1.     --I.  .  »- ..,  p^,     .  ^  ^ 

PENSION    FOR    THE    WINTER    MONTHS, 
at  very  moderate  Prices. 


1871. 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVEliTISER. 


21 


Stanford's  Foreign  Office  Passport  Agency, 

6  &  7,  CHARING  CROSS,  LONDON,  S.W. 

Passports  (which  are  good  for  life) 
mounted  on  Muslin  or  Silk,  in  Roan, 
Morocco,  or  Russia  Case,  •with  the 
name  of  the  Owner  lettered  on  the 
ou'jjide,  thus  preventing  Injury  or 
l05s,  as  well  as  lessening  the  delay  in 
exiuninatlon  abroad. 

For  further  particulars,  including 
the  Forms  of  Application,  Cost  of 
Passport,  Visas,  &c.,  see  Stanford's 
Passport  Circular,  which  will 
be  forwarded  per  post  on  receipt  of 
One  Stamp. 
Gratis  on  applUailun,  or  i'ree  per  p.st  for  One  Stamp, 

STANFORD'S   TOURIST't'    CATALOGUE, 

Containing  Title.  Price,  &c.,  of  the  Best  Guide  Books,  Maps,  Conversation  Books,  Dictiox- 
AuiEs,  &c.,  published  hi  the  United  Kingdom,  the  Continent,  and  America,  and  kept  con. 
stantly  in  stock  by  Edward  Stanford. 

London:   EDWARD  STANFORD.  6  &  7,  Chabing  Cross,  S.W., 
Agent  for  the  Sale  of  the  Ordnance  Maps,  Geological  Survey  Maps,  and  Admiralty  Cliarts. 

GENEVE. 

GRAND  HOTEL    BEAU   RIVAGE. 

THIS  first-rate,  splendid  Hotel  has  the  advantage  of  being  the  most  pleasantly 
situated  in  Geneve,  on  the  Quaidu  Mont  Blanc,  near  the  English  Church,  in 
front  of  the  Steamboat  Landing,  and  very  near  the  Railway  Station.  Krom  the 
(iarden  and  two  delightful  Terraces,  and  from  eacli  window  of  the  Hotel,  Mont 
Blanc,  the  Lake,  and  the  Town,  can  be  seen  in  their  fullest  extent.  Ciiarges  moderate. 
Table-d'Hote  three  times  a  day.  Ls  the  resort  of  the  first  English  and  American 
Families.  MAYER    &    KUNZ,   Proprietors. 

First-rate  House,  containing  nboiit  one  hundred  large  Apartments  and  Saloon, 

for  Families,  having  been  lately  enlarged. 
ENGLISH   SPOKEN    AND  ENGLISH   NEWSPAPERS   KEPT. 

V  E  V  E  Y. 


GRAND    HOTEL    DE    VEVEY, 

opened  February  1868. 

FIRST-CLASS  HOUSE  in  every  rftspect.  Splendid  situation  in 
the  midst  of  a  large  Park,  on  the  Lake  shore.  Magnificent  view  in  all 
directions.  Baths  in  the  Hotel.  Lift.  Telegraphic  Bureau.  Landiug- 
phice  for  tlie  Lake  Steamers  (Grand  Hotel).  Omnibus  at  the  Hallway 
Station.     Board  during  the  Winter  Season. 

ALFRED  HIRSCHY. 


oo 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


THE  CONTINENT. 


COURIERS   AND    TRAVELLING    SERVANTS    OF 

DIFFERENT   NATIONS. 

Society  of  Couriers  and  Travelling 

Servants. 

ESTABLISHED   IG   YeARS. 

Patronised  by  the  Eoyal  Family,  Nobility,  and  Gentry, 
12,  BURY  STREET,  ST.  JAMES'S. 


rpmS  Society  is  composed  of  Members  of  different  Nations, 
X  all  of  well-establislK  d  roputiitioii,  great  exporioncc,  efficitmcy, 
and  respectability. 

Couriers  suitable  for  any  country  can  be  obtained. 

Italians,  Germans,  Swiss,  French,  and  Men  of  other 
Nations,  com2)ose  this  Society ;  some  of  whom,  besides  the 
usually  required  languages,  speak  Spanish,  Russian,  Swedish, 
Turkish,  and  Arabic, — in  fact,  ewery  Continental  and  European 
language. 

Travellers  for  any  2)art  can  inmiediately  meet  with 
Couriers  and  Travelling  Servants  on  application  to  the 
Secretary. 


COURIERS  AND  TRAVELLING   SERVANTS   OF   DIFFERENT  NATIONS, 

12,  B^RY  STRKET,  ST.  JAMES'S. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


23 


BONN    ON    THE    RHINE. 


MR.   SCHMITZ, 

PROPRIETOR  OF  THE  GOLDEN  STAR  HOTEL, 


1857.  Oct 


1857 
1857 
1857 


1857. 


1857. 


Begs  leave  to  recommend  his  Hotel  to  English  Travellers.  The  apart- 
ments are  furnished  throughout  in  the  English  style ;  the  rooms  are 
carpeted ;  and  the  attendance,  as  well  as  the  kitchen  and  the  wine- 
cellar,  is  well  provided.  Mr.  SCHMITZ  begs  to  add  that  at  no  first- 
rate  Hotel  on  the  Rhine  will  be  found  more  moderate  charges  and  more 
cleanliness. 

The  STAR  HOTEL  has  been  honoured  by  the  visits  of  the  following 
Members  of  the  English  Royal  Family  : — 

/  H.  R.  H.  rbe  Prince  of  Walks,  accompanied  by  General  Sir  W.  Copkington, 
16  {         Colonel  Possonby,  Sir  Frederic  Stanley,  Dr.  Ahmstkong,  Rev.  F.  C. 

I         Tauveu,  Mr.  GiBBS,  etc. 
„rt  5  H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  his  Suite  paying  a  visit  at  the  Golden 
Aug.  20  j        g^^^  jj^^^i  ^Q  jijg  Majesty  the  King  of  the  Belgians. 
Aug.  8      11.  li.  H.  the  Prince  of  Wales  and  his  Suite. 

„  CT.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge  and  Princess  Maky  of  Cambridge, 
July  29  I         accompanied  by  the  Baron  Kne8EBEc:k  and  Suite. 

-  C  H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  of  Wales  paying  a  visit  at  the  Golden  Star  Hotel  to 

July  29  <         -J,  J,  jj  ^jjg  Duchess  of  Cambkidge  and  Princess  Maky  of  Cambuidge. 

(  H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  of  Wales,  accompanied  by  the  Right  Honourable  C. 

July  15  \         Grky,  General  Majou,  Colonel  Ponsonby,  Sir  Frederic  Stanley,  Dr. 

I         Armstkong,  Rev.  F.  C.  Tarver,  Mr.  Gibbs,  etc. 

J  H.  R.  H.  Prince  Alfred  of  Great  Britain,  accompanied  by  Lieutenant- 

•  I         General  Sir  Frederick  Stovin  and  Lieutenant  Ojwell. 
H.  M.  Adelaide,  Queen  1X)wagkr  of  Grf.at  Britain,  accompanied  by 

His  Highness  Prince  Edward  of  Saxk  Weimar,  Lord  and  Lady  Bar- 
rington,  Sir  David  Davies.  M.D.,  Rev.  J.  R.  Wood,  M.A.,  Captain 
Taylor,  &c,  &c.,  honoured  the  above  establishment  with  a  Threr 
Days'  Visit. 
R.  H.  the  Duke  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 
H.  R.  H.  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Clarence  (King  William  IV.  and 
Queen  Adelaide)  and  Suite. 
M.  Queen  Adelaide,  accompanied  by  the  Earl  and  Countess  of  Kruol, 
Earl  and  Countess  of  Denbigh,  Earl  and  Coimtess  Howe,  &c. 
R.  PL  the  Duchess  of  Gloucester  and  Suite. 
...  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 
H.  R.  H.  the  Prince  George  of  Cambridge  and  Suit*. 
(  H.  R.  H.  Prince  Albert  of  Saxe  Coburg  Gotha,  accompanied  by  Prince 

•  I         Ernest  of  Saxe  Coburg  Gotha,  and  their  Suite. 
(  H,  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge,  accompanied  by  the  Princess  Augusta 

•  I        of  Cambridge,  and  their  Suite. 
C  H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Kent  and  Suite,  accompanied  by  H.  S.  H.  the 

•  I         Prince  of  Lkiningen. 
.     H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 

H.  R.  H.  Princess  Carolina  of  Cambridge. 
H.  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Cambridge  and  Suite. 
H.  R.  H.  Princess  Mary  of  Cambridge. 
C  h!  R.  H.  the  Duchess  of  Kent  and  Suite,  accompanied  by  H.  S.  H.  the 

•  /     *    Prince  of  Leiningen. 

j  T.  R.  H.  the  Duke  and  Duchess  of  Cambridge,  with  their  Family  and 
I        Suite. 


1856.    Nov. 


1846.    June  18 


1818. 
1825 


1834. 

1836. 
1H37. 
1839. 


May  . 
March 
and  Sept. 

July. 


Aug. 

July, 

Nov. 


H. 

.{ 


H. 
H. 


—       Nov. 


1840. 


1841.  .   .    . 

1841.  .    .    . 

1844.  .    .    . 

—  •       • 

1845.  June 
1847.  July 


24 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


FLORENCE. 


P.   ROMANELLI, 

Sculptor,  Pupil  of.  and  Successor  to,  the  late 
Professor  BartoUnl,  has  opened  a  Galleiy, 

Lung'  Arno  Guicciardini,  No.  7. 

The  intelligent  amateur  will  find  there  a 
Collection  of  Statues,  both  originals  and  copies, 
artistically  executed. 

ParNCTPAL  Works  :— The  Son  of  William  ' 
Tell;  the  Young  Kranklin  ;  the  Young  Wa^sh- 
ingtou;  the  Young  Whittiiijrton ;  the  Young 
Napoleon ;  the  Young  Moiies ;  Garibaldi.         i 


J.  FIELD, 

House  and  Estate  Agent, 

Auctioneer,  &c., 

THE  LODGE,  No.3,  CARY  PARADE, 

(  TORQUAY. 

i      Tlio  Nobility,  Gentry,  and  Families  gene- 
Tally,   requiring    Furnished  or   Unfurnished 

I'.esidences  in  Torquay  or  its  neighhourhcoil. 

receive    every    attention    and    information. 

either  personally  or  t.y  letter,  on  application 

to  Mr.  J.  F.,  whose  whole  time  is  e>peciallv 

devoted  to  House  Agency,  Sales  by  Auction 

kc,  kc. 
All  letters  of  enquiry  must  please  contain 

a  po&tage  stamp. 


GENEVA  MUSICAL  BOXES. 

B.A.  BREMOND,   MANUFACTURER. 

Prize  Medal,  Paris  Exhibition,  1867. 

WHOLESALE.        RETAIL.       EXPORTATION, 
7,  JW£  PHADIEB,   GENEVA,  SWITZERLAND. 

GENEVA. 
HOTET^    I>E   lX~COXJRO]\TVE. 

Proprietor,  Mr.  F.  BAUU. 
q^HIS   ESTABLISHMENT,  of  the  first  Eank.  completely 

J-  newly  furnished  throughout,  situated  in  iVont  of  tlie  magnificent  Pont  tin 
Mont  Blanc,  the  National  Monument,  tlie  Steam-boat  lau(iii)ir,''and  the  Kn^rjisl, 
Garden,  enjoys  a  most  extended  view  of  Lac  Leman  and  Mont  lilanc. 

Every  attention  paid  to  the  comfort  and  wishes   of  Families  and  Gentlemen 
Active  attendance,  good  cuisine  and  collar.     English   and  Ameiiaui   newsiKi^^rs* 
Tables-dHote  3  times  a  day.     Omnibus  from  the  Hotel  to  every  Train. 

FLORENCE. 
BBIZZI    AND     NICCOLAI'S 

MLiAsicjvl   ICstabliKliiiioiit. 

PIANOFORTES,  OF  THE  BEST  MAKERS 

FOR  SALE  AND  ON  HIRK.  ' 

GENERAL    DEPOT   FOR   WIND-INSTRUMENTS. 
Italian  and  Foreigrn  Music. 

Afnsical  l.endivq  Library. 

!> A /}^\ i^J^up  A Snixrr  I     '^^^^'CH  HOUSE  (Music  DkiGt) 

PAIxAZZO  ALDOBRANDINI.  |  12,  VIA  CERRETANl. 


1871. 


MUREAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


25 


MUDIES     SELECT     LIBRARY. 

BOOKS   FOR   ALL   READERS. 


FIRST-CLASS  SUBSCRIPTION 

FOR  A  CONSTANT  SUCCESSION  OF  THE  NEWEST  BOOKS, 
One    Grxiinea   pei*  .A.nnxxm, 

COMMENCING  AT  ANY  DATE. 
'BOOK   SOCIETIES   SUPPLIED   ON  LIBEKAL  TERMS. 


CHEAP   BOOKS.— NOTICE. 

TWENTY  THOUSAND  VOLUMES  OF 

BOOKS  IN  ORNAMENTAL  BINDING  FOR  PRESENTS. 

CONSISTING    CHIEFLY   OF 

WORKS  OF  THE  BEST  AUTHORS, 

AND  MORE  THAN  TWO  HUNDRED  THOUSAND  VOLUMES 

of  Surplus  Copies  of  other  Popular  Books  of  the  Past  Season, 

ARE  NOW  ON  SALE  AT  GREATLY  REDUCED  PRICES. 

Catalogues  postage  free  on  Application. 

MUDIE'S  SELECT  LIBRARY,  New  Oxford  Street,  London. 
CITY  OFFICE— 4,  King  Street,  Cheapside. 


ANTWERP, 


HOTEL  ST.  ANTOINE, 

PLACE  VERTE, 
OPPOSITE   THE   CATHEDRAL. 

^^HIS  Excellent  fii'st-class  Hotel,  ^vliicli  enjoys  the 
well-merited  favour  of  Families  and  Tourists,  has  been 
repurchased  by  its  old  and  well-known  Proprietor,  Mr.  Schmitt- 
Spaenhoven  ;  wbo,  with  his  Partner,  ^vill  do  everytbing  in 
their  power  to  render  the  visit  of  all  persons  who  may  honour 
them  with  their  patronage  as  agreeable  and  comfortable  as 
possible.     Baths  in  the  Hotel 


20 


MURKAY'S   HANDBOOK  ADVEIiTISER, 


May, 


By  Appointment  to  H.  R.  H. 


The  Prince  of  Wales. 


ali:en& 


37,  WEST  STR.x  .D,  LONDON,  W.C. 

New  Illustrated  Catalogues  of  Registered  Articles  for  1871 

Post  Free. 


ALLEN'S  PATENT        ALLEN'S  PATENT  ALLEN'S  PATENT 

BAG.  DESPATCH-BOX  DESK.  Quadruple  Portmanteau. 


ALLEN'S 
SOLID  LEATHER 
DRESSING-CASE. 


ALLEN'S  EXPANDING 
PORTMANTEAU. 


ALLEN'S  10  GUINEA 
SILVER  DRESSING  BAG 


ALLEN'S  NEW 
DRESSING  BAG. 


ALLEN'S  SOLID 

MAHOGANY 
DRESSING-CASE. 


LADY'S 

WARDROBE 

PORTMANTEAU. 


Ai;so 


Allen's  Barrack  Furniture  Catalogue,  for 
OflBcers  joining^    Post    Free. 

PRIZE  MEDAL  AWARDED 

FOR    GENERAL    EXCELLENCE. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


IRELAND. 


27 


PORTRUSH. 

THIS  Hotel  is  beautifully  situated,  having  an  uninterrupted 
view  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  the  Giant's  Causeway,  the  Skebries,  and  I^ugh  Fovle, 

It  contains  upwards  of  100  Apartments, 

rrinclpally  facing  the  Sea. 

A    NOBLE    COFFEE-ROOM, 

with  Drawing-Roora  attached,  equally  available  for  Ladies  and  Gentlemen. 

Table-d'Hote  daily  during  the  Season. 

Cuisine  and  Wines  Flrst-Class.  Terms  moderate.  French  spoken. 

Billinrtl    and    i^ttnokiiia;    ItooniM. 

THE   SEA   BATHS, 

Roceutly  rebuilt  on  the  Hotel  Grounds,  by  Mr.  Buowx,  will  be  found  to  contain  every 
nio«lern  Improvement.  Separate  Apartmente  for  Ladies  and  Gentlemen.  Hot,  Cold,  ShoAver, 
antl  Douche  Baths,  The  Superintendents  in  each  Department  being  people  of  experience, 
visitors  to  the  Baths  may  depend  on  every  attention. 

Extensive  Posting  and  Livery  Establishment  In  connection  with  the  Hotel. 
A  Vehicle  to  the  Giant's  Causeway  and  back  dally  during  the  Season. 
Visitors  to  t/te  Ilotd  are  respect/ulli/  requested  to  be  particular  in  inquiring  for  the  ANTRIM 
AliMS  HOTEL  Omnibus.    It  ^attends  all  Steamers  and  Trains,  for  the  conveyance  oj 
Passengers  to  the  Hotel  free. 

J.  BROWN,  Proprietor. 

Portrush  is  Vie  nearest  Railway  Station  to  the  Giant's  Causetoay. 

London  and  South-Western  Railway. 

LONDON  STATION,  WATERLOO  BlilDGE. 
The  Cheap  and  Picturesque  Route  to 

PARIS,  HAVRE,  ROUEN,  HONFLEUR,  AND  CAEN, 

Via  SOUTHAMPTON  and  HA  VRE. 

Every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday,  the  last  Train  from  London  at  9  p.m.  for  the 

Southampton  Docks,  aloiigf.ide  the  Steamer. 

Fares  throughout  (London  and  Parid)-FiBST  Class,  30/0 ;  Second  Class,  22/0. 

Hetum  Tickets  (available  for  one  mouth)— First  Class,  50/  ;  Second  Class,  36/. 

JERSEY,  GUERNSEY,  AND  ST.  MALO. 

DAILY  MAIL  SERVICE, 
Vid   SOUTHAMPTON— The  favounte   Route. 

Fares  Otroughmit  (London  and  Jersey  or  Guernsey)— 33/0  First  ;  23/0  Second  Clas.s. 

Every  Weekday. 

Return  Tickets  (available  for  One  Month)-48/0  First  ;  or  38/0  Second  Class. 

The  Last  Train  from  Lonrbm  in  time  for  the  Steamers  leaves  at  9  p.m.  (^except  on  Saturdays  , 

vn  which  day  the  Last  Train  is  at  5.1.S  p  w..  for  Jersey  OTd\f)for  the  Southampton  Docks, 

alongside  the  Steamer. 

DIRECT  SKRVICE  TO  ST.  MALO. 

Every  Monday,  Wednesday,  and  Friday  according  to  Tide. 

DIRICCT  SKRVnCK  TO  CHERBOURG. 

Every  Monday  and  Ihurhday,  leaving  Waterloo  Station  at  810  a.m. 

For  further  Information  apply  to  Mr.  De  Votille,  3,  Place  Vendorae,  Paris. — Mr.  Langstaff, 

47    Grand  (^uai,  Havre. — Mr.  Enault,  Honfieur. Mr.  E.  D.  Le  Couteur,  Jersey. — Mr. 

Spencer,  Guernsey. Captain  Gaudln,  St.  Malo. — Messtn.  MahieU.  Cherbourg. Or  to  Mr. 

E.  K.  Corke,  Steam  Packet  Superintendent,  Southampton. 


28 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


DRESDEN. 


■  ><>* 


HOTEL   BELLEVUE,  DRESDEN. 

Kept  by  Mr.  EMIL  KAYSER. 

rr\mS  fiue  Imgo  Establishment,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Elbe,  between  the 
two  beautiful  bridges,  facing  the  Theatre,  Museum,  and  Catholic  Cathedral 
adjoining  the  Biuhl's  Terrace,  and  opposite  the  Koyal  Palace  and  Green  Vault.' 
contains  One  Hundred  Front  Rooms.     These  apartments  combine  elegance  and 
comfort,  and  most  of  them  fronting  either  the  Theatre  Square,  or  public  ^valks 
and  gardens  of  the  Hotel,  and  command  fine  views  of  the  River,  Bridc^os  and 
distant  Mountains.     The  Gardens  of  the  Hotel  afford  its  guests  an  agreeable'  and 
private  Promenade.    Table  d'H6te  at  one  and  five  o'clock.     Private  Dinners  at  any 
hour.     To  families  or  single  persons  desirous  of  taking  apartments  for  the  winter, 
very  advantageous  arrangements  will  be  offered,  and  every  effort  made  to  render 
their  residence  in  the  Hotel  pleasant  and  comfortable.     Carriages,  Baths,  Riding. 
I^illiard  and  Smoking  Rooms.     Ladies'  Parlour. 


GENEVE,   GRAND    QUAI  26. 

to*    ■    ' 

Mimxxhttmtxs  of  Winitlm  aub  hMx^j, 

CHRONOMETERS  and  WATCHES  with  Complex  Movements 

Great  Choice  of  Jewelry  in  entirely  New  Designs. 

3   MEDALS   IN  1867. 

HOUSE   AT   NICE,  15,  QUAI   MASSINA. 

Corresiioudeiits  at  IjO^UON,  rAIfliN,  and  ^KW  \  OltK. 

Everything  sold  at  Manufacturers'  Prices, 

PURE    AERATED    WAtYrs. 

ELLIS'S 

RUTHIN     WATERS, 

Soda,  Potass,  Seltzer,  Lemonade, 
Lithia,  and  for  GOUT,  Lithia 
and  Potass. 
CORKS  BRANDED  " R.  ELLIS  k  SON^.  RurniN  "  an.i  fvppxr  i^i^^i  i,.„    n  ,  *    ^ 

mark.    Sold  everywhere.  ar.d  Wholesale  by  li.  ill^.r^T^Z^.,  N^rlh  wSe^^'  ^'"''^ 
London  Agents  :  W.  Best  &  Sons,  Henrietta  St..  Cavendish  Square. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


29 


THE  SWISS  AND  THE  UNITED 

COURIERS'  SOCIETY, 

Amid<jamated,  and  Begistered  according  to  Act  of  Parliament 

as  the 

SWISS  AND  UNITED  COURIERS'  SOCIETY. 

Wliich  is  composed  of  men  of  various  nations,  all  of  whom 
possess  tlio  highest  testimonials,  and  are  recommended  to 
families  who,  on  their  travels,  desire  to  rid  themselves  of  the 
annoyances  and  encumbrances  attending  a  tour  in  foreign  lands, 
and  thus  '*  save  time,  tem2)er,  and  money." 

No  one  is  admitted  as  a  Member  in  the  above  Society  unless 
he  is  of  the  strictest  integrity,  and  possesses  all  the  necessary 
cj[ual ideations  for  a  competent  Courier. 


FOR    ENGAGEMENTS, 
Or  ai\y  Infoiination  respecting  Travelling  on  the  Continent, 

APPLY    TO    THE    SECRETARY 

OF   THE 

Swiss  and  United  Couriers'  Society, 

58,  MOUNT    STREET, 

GllOSVENOK    SQUARE,  W.,  LONDON. 


no 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


BERNE  (Switzerland.) 


MUSICAL    BOXES, 

WOOD  CARVINGS,  SCULPTURES,  k.,  &C., 


OP 


J.     H.     H  E  Ij  L  E  H, 

AT    BERNE. 

Manufacture  unattained  by  any  other  House, 


BOLOGNA. 


GRAND  HOTEL  D'lTALIE. 

rpHIS  First-class  Establishment,  newly  re-fittcfl  up,  enjoys 
-JL  the  most  central  situation  in  the  town,  and  is  close  to  all 
the  most  interesting  Public  Buildings. 


LARGE  AND  SMALL  WELL -FUENI SHED  APARTMENTS 

AND  ROOMS. 

Well  supplied  Readiug-room.     Sitting-room  with  Piauo. 

ENGLISH  and  PRENCH  NEWSPAPERS.     TABLE  D'HOTE,  &c, 

All  the  Attendants  speak  English,  French,  &'C. 

BILLIARDS. 


1871 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


:]i 


GENEVA. 


HOTEL   DE   LA  METROPOLE, 

Directed  by  Mr.  CHARLES  ALDINGER,  formerly  the  well-known 

Proprietor  of  the  Hotel  de  la  Couronne,  and  now  the 

Proprietor  of  the  Hotel  de  la  Metropole. 

'^pHIS  large  and  excellent  Establishment,  situated  in  the  most  favourable  quarter  of 
X  the  town,  facing  the  Pont  du  Mont  Blanc,  with  the  English  Garden  in  front, 
which  is  well  provided  with  flowers  and  shrubs,  and  shady  seats,  and  goes  down 
f,o  the  edge  of  the  lake. 

From  the  rooms  in  front  there  is  a  very  fine  view  of  the  lake,  and  from  those  at 
the  back  the  snow-capped  summit  of  Mont  Blanc  is  seen  in  the  distance ;  and 
from  an  Observatory  at  the  top  of  the  house,  of  very  easy  access,  both  can  be  seen, 
and  a  very  extended  view  of  the  suirounding  country. 

It  contiiins  200  most  elegantly  furnished  Bed  and  Sitting  Rooms  in  eveiy 
variety,  and  the  Proprietor  himself  superintends  all  the  arrangements. 

A  Reading  Room,  with  all  English,  American,  French,  and  German  newspapers, 
and  a  spacious  Cofiee  and  Smoking  Room  are  in  the  Hotel ;  in  short,  every  comfort 
Visitoi-s  can  expect  in  a  first-class  Hotel  is  at  their  disposition. 

The  House,  by  its  good  ventilation,  is  exceedingly  cool  in  summer  ;  and  in 
winter  is  heated  by  large  stoves.  Charges  are  very  moderate,  and  pension  during 
the  winter.     Table-d'hote3  timesadav.      Omnibus  from  the  Hotel  3  times  a  dav. 

Private  Carriages  and  Cabs  always  ready. 

G  E  IsT  eVa^ 


POUZET,     OPTIC  IE  N, 

MANVFACTURLn, 
H,    11  U  E      r>  TJ      >£  O  ]X  T      B  L  A  IV  O. 


Optical  and  Mathematical  Instruments,  particularly  Telescopes, 
Opera  Glasses,  Barometers  and  Thermometers  for  Travelling, 
Glasses  for  Lv.nettes  in  Eock  Crystal,  Stereoscopes  and  Stereo- 
scopic Views  on  Glass. 
A  Complete  Collection  of  Swiss  and  Italian  Views, 

HOTEL  OESTERREICHISGHEB  HOF, 

VIENNA. 

The  undermentione<l  respectfully  begs  to  reooniniend  to  the  Nobility  and  tlie 
travelling  Public  in  genenil  his  spacious  first-claims  Hotel.  The  same  is  most 
advantageously  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  citv,  near  St.  Stephen  s  Church ; 
it  contains  165  rooms  and  saloons  with  balconies,  and  is  fitted  up  with  all  modern 
comfort  and  luxury.  Best  l''rench  <'Ooking  and  first-rate  wines  (original)  from  all 
countries.  Telegra])h  and  Post  Offices,  baths  and  carriages.  The  attendance  is 
most  strictly  con ti oiled. 

Re>pectfdlv, 

JOH.  HKYDXKR,  Pnoi'niF.roK. 


ci2 


MtJRRAY*S  HANDliOOK  ADVERtlSER. 


May, 


FOREIGN    BOOKS    AT    FOREIGN    PRICES. 


-•o*- 


Travkllers   may  save   expense   and  tionble  by  purchasing  Foreign  liooks  in 
England  at  the  same  prices  at  which  they  are  pubHshed  in  Germany  or  France. 

WILLIAMS  &  NORGATE 

have  published  the  following  CATALOGUES  of  their  Stock  :— 


1.  CLASSICAL    CATALOGUE. 

2.  THEOLOGICAL     CATA- 

LOGUE. 

3.  FRENCH  CATALOGUE. 

4.  GERMAN  CATALOGUE. 

5.  EUROPEAN   LINGUISTIC 

CATALOGUE. 

6.  ORIENTAL    CATALOGUE. 

7.  ITALIAN  CATALOGUE. 

8.  SPANISH    CATALOGUE. 

9.  ART-CATALOGUE.  Art,Archi- 

tecture,  Painting,  Illustrated  Books. 


10.  NATURAL  HISTORY 
CATALOGUE.  Zoology,  Bo- 
tany,  Geology,  Chemistry,  Mathe- 
matics, &c. 

11.  MEDICAL  CATALOGUE. 
Medicine,  Surgery,  and  the  Depen- 
dent Scioncps. 

12.  SCHOOL  CATALOGUE.  Ele- 
ment arv  Books,  ]\Iaps,  &c. 

13.  FOREIGN     BOOK     CIRCU- 

LARS.     New  Books,   and  New 
Purchases. 

14.  SCIENTIFIC-BOOK  CIRCU- 

LARS.    New  Books  and  Kecent 
Purchases. 


ANY  CATALOGUE  SP:N'T  POST-P'RKE  FOli  OXE  STAMP. 

WILLIAMS  &  WORQATE,   Importers   of  Foreign  Books, 

14,  Henrietta  Street,  Covent  Garden,  London,  and 
20,  SouTir  Frederick  Street,  Edinburgh. 

BADEN-BADEN. 


Grand  Hotel  and  Pension  Belle  Vue, 

(Allee  de  Lkhtenihal,  close  to  the  English  Church), 

Splendid  situation,  surrounded  by  laroje  Pleasure  Grounds.  This 
Establishment  is  fitted  up  with  every  comfort  and  luxury.  Kestaurant 
Table  d'hote  at  1  and  6  o'clock.  Reading  Eoom.  Carriage  at  the  Hotel. 
Stabling  and  Coach-house. 

C.  SILBERRAD,  Proprietok. 


VIENNA. 


THE  EMPRESS  ELISABETH  HOTEL 

{KAISERIN  ELISABETH). 

JOHANN     HEUGL,    Proprietor. 

Tills  Hotel  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  Austrian  cttpital,  near  St.  Stephen's 
Square,  and  much  frequented  by  English  and  American  families  for  many  years 
past;  has  been  entirely  and  thoroughly  repaired,  and  all  its  apartments  newly  and 
eles^antlv  furnished  by  its  new  Proprietor.  Handsome  Dinini;-rooms  and  Diniug- 
hail,  with  Cardon,  Reading  and  Smoking-rooms,  have  been  added.  English, 
American,  and  French  I'apers  on  file.  Private  Dinners  «  la  carte  at  all  hours  of 
the  day.  English  Waiters  and  Commissioners  in  attendance.  Charges  moderate. 
Cuisine  superior. 


1871. 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


33 


NEUCHATEL,    SUISSE. 

GRAND  nOTEL~DU  MONT  BLANC, 

KEPT  BY 

Messrs.    BAUMERT    and   KOSER." 
^PHIS  splendid  Establishment,  the  largest,  most  important,  an<l 

*-  newest  in  Neuchatel,  enjoys  a  fine  view  of  the  Lake  and  the  Mountains,  and 
is  surrounded  by  a  garden.  It  contains  a  magnificent  Salle  a  Manger,  Kestaumnt, 
Billiard  and  Smokinor  Room,  a  beautifully  decorated  Conversation  and  Reading 
Room,  supplied  with  the  best  Newspapers.     Baths  at  the  Hotel. 

The  Landlords,  who  have  been  for  many  years  at  the  head  of  several  of  the 
best  Continental  Hotels, such  as  Bauer  au  Sac,  Zurich;  Grand  Hotel,  Vevey;  Grand 
Hotel,  Nice,  will  spare  no  pains  to  make  the  Visitors  as  comlbrtable  as  possible. 


VEVEY. 


HOTEL    D'ANGLETERRE. 

■piRST-CLASS    HOUSE,    newly  Re-organized,  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  Lake  of  Geneva,  in  front  of  the  now  Steam- 
boat Landing-place. 

Table  d'Hotc.  Restaurant  fi  la  Carte.  Board  during  the 
Winter.  Bath  at  the  Hotel.  Omnibus  of  the  Hotel  at  the 
Railway  Station.  ^^  ^^^^^^ 


VEVEY. 


-•o«- 


GRAND  HOTEL  DU  LAC. 

EDOUARD    DELAJOUX,    Proprietor. 


■piRST-CLASS   HOTEL,  entirely  new,  close  to  the   Lake, 
and  splendid  view. 

SPLENDID   SALON   and  DINING   ROOM. 


Close  to  the  Steamboat  Laudinq. 


1) 


34 


MURRArS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


18?]. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


35 


GENEVA. 


HOTEL   VICTORIA, 

RUE   DE   MONT    BLANC. 

Near  the  English  Church,  the  Railway  Stition,  and  the  Steam-hoat  Landings. 

FiRST-cr.ASs  hoti:t.. 

MALSCH    BERTHOUD,    Proprietor. 
Salon  Smoking  Room,  and   Baths,  in  the   Hotel. 

GENEVA. 

— •<>• — 

A  MOUNTAIN   RESIDENCE,  MONT  SALEVE, 

One  and  a-half  hour  fiom  Geneve,  3800  ft.  above  tlie  lovcl  of  the  sea. 

'3rOUNETIER 

HOTEL    DE    LA    RECONNAISSANCE, 

Kept  by  PERKEARD-FAURAX. 

OMNIBUSES    TO    GENEVE    TWICE    A    DAY. 


%.     fl      j»r" 


^  T 


LAUSANNE. 
»     »^« 

^T^       GM  O  B  O  iV 

Mb.    RITTER,    Proprietor. 


■pIRST-CLASS    HOTEL,  situated  in  llio  finest  part  of  the 
Town,  is  in  every  respect  very  highly  recomnir:ided.     Splendid  View  over 
the  Lake  in  all  its  extent. 

Large  Terrace  and  Garden  attached  to  the  Hotel. 

PENSION    DURING    THE    \YIXTI:K. 

LAUSANNE. 


HOTEL    EICHE-MOXT, 

Kept   by  FRITZ    RITTER. 
'THIS  Hotel  is  of  the  first  order,  worthy  of  the  highest  recom- 


mendations, and  in  a  situation  of  sur]»assing  ber.tity.       It  is  surrounded  by 


Gardens  and  Promenades,   and  offers  to  Travellers  a   highly  desirable   place   of 
residence,  or  of  temporary  sojourn. 


ft 


Important  to  the  Travelling  Public. 
PARCELS  TO  AND  FROM  THE  CONTINENT. 

THE  CONTINENTAL 

DAILT  PARCELS  EXPRESS 

(ESTABLISHED    ISdO), 

O  OLE  Ageucy  for  England  of  the  Belgian  Government  Rail- 
^^  way  and  Koith  German  Postil  Confiederation,  and  Correspondent  of  the 
Xo:theru  of  Fiance  Paihvay,  conveys  by  Wail  Steam  Packets,  Every  Kight 
(Sunday  excepted),  via  Dover,  Calais,  and  Ostend,  and  rapidly  by  Hail  and  I'ost 
to  destination,  Parcels  and  Packages  of  all  kinds,  between  England  and  ail  paits 
of  the  Continent,  at  Through  Kates  which  are  very  moderate,  ar^d  include  all 
charges,  except  Duties  and  Entries. 

Parcels  should  he  hoolced  as  follows  :^ 
HOMENA/ARD.— From  the  Continent. 
In  all  Germany.     At  any  Post-oflice  of  the  North  Gojman  Postal  Confederation, 

or  of  the  Countries  in  connection  therewith,  viz.,  Austria,  It:ily,Switzei- 

land,  Kussia,  Denmark,  &c. 
Belgium.      At  any  of  the  State  Kailway  Stations,  at  the  Office  of  the  Agent  in 

Brussels,   A.  Crooy,  90  bis,  Montague  de  laCour;  or  they  can  be 

sent  direct  to  Mr.  De  Kiddek,  54,  Kue  St.  Joseph,  O&tend. 
Holland.      In  the  })rincipal  towns,  Van  Gend  and  Loo>. 
France.     Paris,  G.  PiincnAur),  4,  Rue  Kossini.     To  whose  care  also,  parcels 

for  conveyance  to  Engl;md  can  be  despatched  from   towns   beyond 

Paris,  with  advice  by  Post. 

OUT  WARD. -To  the  Continent. 
In  London.  At  Chief  Office,  5.J,  Gracechurch  Street,  City  (D.  K".  Bridge, 
]\Ianager,  to  whom  all  communications  should  be  addressed),  or  at  the 
Universal  Office,  34,  i.'egent  Ciicus. 
In  Country  ToWns.  At  the  Agency  in  Liverpool,  Manchester,  Sheffield,  Hull, 
Leeds,  (Jlas<;ow,  Dublin,  Biadford,  N"ottinghnm.  Southampton,  Dover, 
and  Folkestone,  as  stateil  in  Books  of  Pates,  which  can  be  had  gratis 
on  nppiic;iti<in  to  Ciiief  Office. 

In  other  Towns,  wheie  no  Agent  is  appointed,  parcels  should  be 

sent  under  cover  by  Railway,  to  D.  N.  Bridge,  at  above  addiess 

with  advice  of  contents,  value,  instructions  for  Insurance,  ike,  by  Post' 

N.B.— Persons  wishing  to  send  or  to  obtain  goods  of  any  kind  from  Belgium, 

can  do  so  through  tins   Fxprpss,  "  Contre   Remboujsement,"  j.(?..  Payment  of  the 

Amount  of  liivoice  on  deliveiy  of  the  Parcel. 

Loisdon:  Chief  Office,  53,  Gracechurch  Street, 
May,  1871. 

u  2 


36 


MUKILVY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEIiTJSER. 


May, 


GENEVA. 


PENSION    FLAGELL,  GRAND   QUAI. 

"TIRST-CLASS  PENSION,  near  the  Hotel  de  la  Metropole, 

*-       iaciiig  the  Knglish  Garden  and  tlie  Lake  of  Geneva,     t-ixty  Bed  Kooms  and 
10  Salons.     First-rate  Cuisine.     Pension,  according  to  the  rcoms  and  tlie  time  of 


the  year, 


Strangers  are  received  for  one  or  two  days. 


LUCHON  (BAGNERES  DE),  PYRENEES. 


Grand  Hotel  Bonne-Maison  et  de  Londres, 

Mr.  VIDAL,  Jun.,  Proprietor. 

SITUATED  opposite  the  Theiinal  Establishment  or  Bath-rooms.  This  favourite 
and  Hrst-rate  Hotel  affords  extensive  accommodation  of  the  best  description 
for  a  large  numUr  of  visitors.  It  is  delightfully  situated,  and  will  be  found  most 
comtbrtable  for  Families  or  Gentlemen. 


BOLOGNA. 


•■  ^ 


HOTEL   BRUN  OR  SUISSE, 

Mr.   W.   WELLER,  Propiuktok. 

npHE   high   reputation   which    this  Hotel  enjoys   among   the 
travelling  public,  and  more  especially  English  and  American 
Families,  is  the  strongest  assurance  of  its  superior  arrangement 
and  comfort. 

Piooms  from  2^-  fiancs  upwards. 

Tahlc  d'Hoto,  4  francs. 

Eeading  R(;om,  Smohiug  Rooni. 

Billiard  Ptoom  and  elegant  Dining  Kouui* 

Private  Carriages  to  be  obtained  from  the  HottL 


1871, 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


37 


BADEN-BADEN. 


VICTOR^IA^      HOTEL. 

Proprietor,  Mr.  FKANZ  GROSHOLZ. 

THIS  is  one  of  the  finest  built  and  best  furnished  Eirst-class 
Hotels,  situated  on  the  new  Promenade,  near  the  Kursaal  and  Theatre  ;  it 
commands  the  most  charming  views  in  Baden.  It  is  repute<i  to  be  one  of  the  best 
Hotels  in  Germany.  The  Table  and  Wines  are  cx-cellent,  with  prompt  attendance 
and  gieat  civility.     Prices  very  moderate.     English  and  other  Journals. 

BRISTOL. 


ROYAL  HOTEL,   COLLEGE  GREEN. 

FIRST-CLASS.  Central,  and  pleasantly  situated.  Very 
spacious  Cortee,  Dining,  Heading,  Smoicing,  and  Billiard  Rooms.  Private 
Apartments  en  suite.  One  Hundred  and  Twenty  Bed-rooms.  Steam  Lift  and 
Laundry.  Hot  and  Cold  Baths.  Telegraph  OlHce  and  Post-office  in  the  Hotel. 
Fixed  Charges.     All  Omrfibuses  pass  the  door.     Niglit  Porter  kept. 

W.  SW ANSON,  Manager. 

STRESA.     (Lake    Maggiore.) 

[The  7no.st  beautiful  Summer  Residence.) 

HOTEL  ET  PENSION  DES  ILES  BORROM^ES. 

A  FIRST-CLASS  Hotel,  situated  on  the  most  charming  point 
of  the  borders  of  the  Lake.  From  its  magnihceiit  jwsition,  shaded  from  the 
sun  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day,  it  enjoys  a  very  mild  temperature  in  all 
seasons,  and  freshness  even  during  tlie  great  heats  of  summer.  A  large  Garden 
;ind  Baths.     Bureau  of  the  Swiss  Post  Office  and  Telegraph  OtKce  in  the  Hotel. 

The  English  Church  is  held  in  the  Hotel. 


LAKE    OF    COMO.    (BELLAGIO.) 

HOTEL  AND    PENSION    DE   FLORENCE. 

Kept   by   L.  GRAMMATICA.      Opposite  the   landing-place  of   the  Steam-boats. 

W/ITH  a  Fine  View  of  the  Lake.     Sitting-rooms  and  Bed- 

\  f      rooms  newly  and  elegantly  furnished^    Good  Cooking,  choice  VVines,  moderate 
Prices,  punctual  Attendance. — Pension,  price  from  4  to  8  fianas  a  day. 

BELLAGIO,    LAKE    OF   COMO. 

ANCIEN    HOTEL    ET    PENSION   GENAZZINI. 

Kept  by  the  Proprietor,  M.  GAXDOLA. 

I^HIS  Hotel  is  placed  in  the  most  charming  position  on  the 
Shores  of  the  Lake,  close  to  the  Villas  Serbellnnl,  Melzi  and  Carlotta.  THtp  is  rvrry 
dfsirable  comf.irt.  at  moderate  prices.— KnsUsh,  French,  mid  G'rii:ai.  ^pl•k•  n.— Foreign 
isewspap'Ts;  Heading  llwrn  and  B.itbs. 


38 


MUliRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEKTISEK. 


May, 


COPENHAGEN. 


/s 


//.  C.  GILDSIG,  Proprietor. 

THIS  First-class  Family  Hotel,  situated  opposite  the  Royal 
Palace,  and  within  two  minutes'  walk  of  the  Kxchani;*',  is  p:vtvo:iize(l  by  the 
higliest  class  of  Englibli  and  American  travelkrs,  on  account  of  its  central  position 
for  either  business  or  pleasure.  Tho  Kooms  are  light  and  airy,  and  the  cooking 
particularly  adapted  to  English  taste.  Table  d'Hote  at  three  o'clock,  2s.  3d. 
Kooms  from  'Is.  '-'xi.  and  upwards.  English,  French,  and  German  spoken.  London 
Tiiiica  and  other  papei-s  taken  in, 

CHRISTIANIA.    (Norway.) 


HOTEL      SOANDINAVIE. 

a^IlIS    beautifully  situated    Hotel    is    well   known    Ly  tbo 
En^^li.sh   Nobilitv  for  its   Cleanliness,    Good    Attendance,   and   Moderate 
Prices. 

CHR.  AUG.  SKITH,  Proprietor. 


E  G  YPT. 

ALEXANDRIA    AND    CAIRO. 

§ij  Special  :^p|3ointmcnt  to  *^^  |M^-^)'  tbc  pniuc  of  Unlr^, 
anir  %),%  Ibc   "^^^  ^brMbc  of  Canpt. 

DAVID  KOr>ERTS()N  &  CO., 

English  Booksellers,  Stationers,  Photograph  Vendors, 
and  General  Commission  Agents, 

10,  Grand  Square,  At.kxandria,  and   The  Ezbekikh,  Cairo. 


-♦c*- 


A  Begister  of  Ungllsh  and  American  Travellers  is  Icept  at  tie 

ahirve  Esiahlisliment,  and  Visitors  will  receire  any  assistwice 

or  information  they  may  require. 

English  and  Indian  Newspapers  by  every  Mail. 

TAUCHNITZ   EDITIONS. 

Passages  secured.     Baggage  collected  and  forwarded.     Letters  received  and  pasted 

to  all  countries. 

DAVID    ROBERTSON  AND    CO., 

ALEXANDRIA    AND    CAIRO. 


S' 


1871. 


MUKUAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


39 


r^ 


LUCERNE. 


HOTEL    SCHTVEIZERHOF, 

HAUSP:R  BROTHERS,  Proprietors. 
THE  I.ARGEST  HOTEIi  IIV  SWITZEKIiAfOJ. 

Best  Situation  on  the  Quay,  witli  splendid  view  of  the  cele- 
hrated  panorama  of  the  Lake  and  Mountains. 

''piIE  high  reputiition  wbicb  this  establisbment  enjoys  among 
"*■  Travellers,  and  especially  English  and  American  fomilies,  is  the  best  and 
strongest  assurance  of  its  superior  arrangement  and  comfort.  Its  new  immense 
Dining.Room,  with  ac^oining  Garden<Salon,  and  large  Parlour,  attract  the  ^ttiJ.p.tion 
of  every  Visitor. 

Reduced  Prices  (Pension)  are  made  for  longer  visits  in  the  early  and  later 
parts  of  the  Season. 

BERLIN. 


HOTEL    D'ANG-LETERRE, 

2,  PLACE  AN  DER  BATJACADEMIE,  2. 

situated   IX  THE   FINEST   AND   MOST   ELEGANT   PART   OF  THE   TOWN, 
Near  to  the  Royal  Palaces,  Museums,  and  Theatres, 
muffle  travellers  and  larce  families  can  be  accommodated  with  entire  suites  of  Apartment*, 
consisting  of  splendid  Saloons,  airy  Bedrooms.  &c..  all  furnished  and  carpeted  in  the  best 
Kneli^bslvle     First-rate  Table-d'Hote,  Baths.  Equipages.  Guides.     Ttnus  and  Gahgnani 
if^sengeriaiien  in.    Residence  of  Her  British  Majesty's  Messengers. 

R.   SIEBELIST,  Proprietor. 


'St 

s 


INNSBRUCK. 

HOTEL  GOLDEN  SUN.— M.  Horandtner,  Proprietor.— 
This  first- Claris  Hotel,  situated  in  the  finest  part  of  the  town,  and  only  four  minutes' 
walk  from  the  Railway  Station,  enjoys  a  high  reputation  for  being  honoured  with  the 
patronage  of  travellers  of  all  nations.  The  greatest  care  is  given  to  the  attendance.  I^rge 
^nd  small  well-Iurnished  Apartments  fur  Families  and  Single  Gentlemen.    Lngllsh  spoken. 


s 


LUCERNE. 

WAN  HOTEL.— Tbis  Hotel,  in  tbe  very  best   situation, 

'    eniovs  a  high  character.    Mr.  H^FP:L1.  the  Proprietor,  has  made  in  the  later  years 
. .   „.„^  i^r.r.^^^..r,^t.r^tM   ntifl  does  hls  utmost  to  offer  to  his  visitors  a  comfortable 


O  eniovs  a  high  character,  air.  ti/t.vr.iA.  me  nopneujr.  uii»  mauc  lu  vu^  .a^c.  years 
a  irreat  many  improvt-ments,  and  does  his  utmost  to  offer  to  his  visitors  a  comfortable 
home.  An  elegant  new  Udies'  Drawing-room,  besides  a  Reading-room  and  Smoking-room. 
0)ld,  Warm,  and  Shower  Baths. 


40 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


^lay. 


DRESDEN. 


>\^OC 

VICTORIA     HOTEL, 

T^HIS  fine  large  Establishment,  situated  on  the  jjublic  Pronic- 

-^      iiade  of  the  English  quarter,  ia  the  immediate  vicinity  of  jiU  the  curicusitie?, 
contains  On'K  Hundri^d  Rooms.     Table  d'Hote  at  One  and  Five  o'clock. 

The  Garden  uj  the  Hotel  aff'orils  ita  guesU  an  ayreeahh  Froinenadt^, 

CARBIAGES. 
READING  ROOM  WITH  ENGLISH  AND  AMERICAN  PAPERS. 

To  Families  or  Singjle  Persons  desirous  of  taking  Apart- 
ments for  the  Winter,  advantageous  arrangements  will  be 
offered. 

Proiyriefor  and  MojW(jfr  of  the  Hotels 

CABL  WEISS. 


DRESDEN. 


HOTEL     DE     L'ANGE    D'OR. 

a'^HIS  first-class  Hotel,  situated  in  the  very  best  quarter  of  tlic 
town,  close  to  the  IJoyal  Palace,  the  Museums,  and  the  Theatre,  lecommends 
itself  by  its  sood  management  and  excellent  cuisine.  Large  and  small  Apartment"^. 
English  and  French  Newspapers.  Table  d'Hote.  Restaurant  and  Private  Dinner> 
at  all  hours.     Hot  and  Cold  I>aths  in  the  Hotel. 

Prices  very  moderair  in  Winter. 

JOS.  HEN  ETON.  PjjoT'KiETor. 


ST.  JOHANN,   SAARBRUCK. 


HOTEL     ZIMMERMAN  N. 

T  AEGE  and  Small  Apartments.    Exquisite  Cuisine  and  First- 
olass  Wines.     Best  Beds.      Moderate  Prices.      Good  Attendance. 

OMNIBUS   AT  ALL  THE   TRAINS. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


4X 


I 
< 

J, : 

*  I 


The   Miniature  Photographic   Apparatus 

for  Tourists. 

NO  KNOWLEDGE  OF  PHOTOGBAPEY  BEQUISITE. 

Sole  Manufacturers  : 
HTJRRAT  &  HEATH,  Opticians,  &c.,  to  Her  Majesty, 
69,  JERMYN  STREET,  LONDON,  S.W. 
Description  and  Prices  forwarded  on  receipt  of  stamped  envelope. 


HANOVER. 


XJNIOl^     HOTEL. 

''PHIS  well-known  first-class  and  favourite  Hotel,  for  private 
1  Families  and  Gentlemen,  patronised  by  Her  Royal  Hi|;hne>s  Piince.-s  Mary  and 
Duke  of  Cambridcre,  also  Her  Majesty  the  Empress  ot  Fiance,  on  her  way  to 
Wilhelmshohe,  is  beautifully  and  cheerfully  situated  right  opj.osite  the  Railway 
Station.  Elec^ance  and  comfort  combined.  Euiilish  and  French  spoken.  The  utniost 
attention  and  civilitv.  A  regular  Table  d'Hote,  and  Private  Dinner  to  order. 
Baths  in  the  house.  '  Private  Carriages  always  ready.  English  and  French  News- 
paper.«.     'i'he  Hotel  is  open  all  night, 

The  new  Proprietor.  Mr.  F.  Tookehs.  has  just  opened  a  very  fine  Coffee  Room  and  a  l^eautiful 
Kofresl.rncnt-rooni,  attached  to  the  Hotel.     Pension  6  frs.  a  day,  everything  nicluded.  ^ 

W  IL  D  B  AD. 


-•^•- 


CARFJIAGES      TO     BE     HAD     AT      TH 


HOTEL. 


Hotel   Klunipp,   formerly   Hotel   de   I'Ours, 

Mr.  W.  KLUMPP,  Proprietor. 

THIS  Fir>t-class  Hotel,  containing  36  Salons  and  170  Bed-rooms,  a  sepaiate 
Breakfast,  a  very  extensive  and  elegant  Dining-room,  new  Reading  and 
Conversation  as  well  as'Smoking  Salons,  with  an  artificial  Garden  over  the  river, 
is  situated  opposite  the  Bath  and  Conversation  House,  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  the  Promenade. 

It  is  celebrated  for  its  elegant  and  comfortable  apartments,  good  cuisine  and 
cellar,  and  deserves  its  wide-spread  reputation  as  an  excellent  hotel.  Table-d'bote 
at  One  and  Five  o'clock.     Breaktasts  and  Suppers  a  la  carte. 

EXCHANGE    OFFICE. 

Correspondent  of  the  principal  Banking-houses  of  London  for  the  pivment  of 
Circular  Notes  and  Letters  of  Credit. 

Omnibm  of  the  Hotel  to  and  from  each  Train.     Elegant  private  carnages, 

vchcn  required. 


42 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEUTISEK. 


Way, 


WIESBADEN. 


FOUR  SEASONS  HOTEL  &  BATHS. 

PBOPBIETOB,  DB.  ZAIS. 


T 


'HIb    First-Class   Establislimeut,  equal  to  any  on  the 

-*-  lihine,  is  in  the  best  and  most  delightful  situation  in  the  Great  Squnie, 
opposite  the  Kursaal,  the  Theatre,  the  Promenades;  close  to  the  Boilinj; 
Sprint?  and  the  new  Eriglisli  Chapel. 

This  Hotel  is  the  lar«,'est  in  the  place,  containing  a  great  choice  of 

SPLENDID   AND   OOMrOETABLE   APAETMENTS, 

for  Families  and  Sinp^lo  Travellers  ;  exquisite  Cuisine  and  first-class  Wines, 
combined  with  attentive  service  and  moderate  ciiarges. 

TABLE  D'HOTE  at  1  and  5  p.m.,  and  PEIVATE  DIMEES. 

Numerous  comfortahle  Bathing  Cabinets,  supplied  with  Hot,  Mineral ^ 

and  Sweet  Waters, 


LUCERNE. 


HOTEL   BEAU   RIVAGK 


Propuietor— Mr.  ED.  STRUB. 


'TITIb  newlj-estal)li.slic(l  Hotel  is  fitted  up  with  every  comfort, 

A  and  recommends  itself  by  its  ma^jniricent  view  on  the  l:igi,"pilatus,  &c. 
Beiutiful  Gardens.  Pl.asiirc  Boats.  Private  Saloons  for  ladies  and  families. 
Smoking-rooms.  Baths.  Variety  of  Newspapers.  Most  scrupulous  attendance. 
Moilerate  prices.  (Reduced  prices  for  protracted  visits.)  Omnibus  at  the  Railway 
Station. 


PRANK  F  ORT-  ON-MAIN". 

TTNION  HOTEL   (formerly  Weidenbusch).— A   Fiist-class  Hotel  for  Families 
y      and  Sin<^le  Gentlemen,  situated  in  the  richest  quarter  of  the  town,  near  the  Stathaus, 
the  Prumeuade,  Museum,  Post-office,  and  Theatre.    IJaths,  Reading  and  Smoking  Koum. 
Moderate  Charges.     AiTangaa-Ms  by  the  Week  ur  Almtu. 

BRUNO  STRUBELL,  Proprietor. 

NASSAU.  ~ 

Seventh  Edition,  with  Illustrations,  Post  8vo.,  75.  ^d. 

BUBBLES    from    the    BRUNNE^. 

Bv  AN  OLD   MAN. 


JOHN    MURRAY,    ALBEMARLE    STREET. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


43 


FLORENCE. 


Messrs.  Anthony  Sasso  &  Son,  Artists, 

4,  VIA  DI  BORGO  OGNISSANTI, 

Distlns4UHhed  with  Medals  at  the  ItAlian  Exhibition  of  1861.  keep  the  most  beautiful  and 
rich  I'rlvate  Gallery  in  the  City  of  Ancient  and  modern  original  pictures,  copies  of  the  most 
celebrated  pictures  in  the  Public  Gaileries.  water-colour  pdiutings,  and  beautifiil  ancient 
carved  cabinets,  &c.  .,     ♦— — — 

KNGLTSH    SPOKKN. 

Agents  and  Correspondents  in  England  and  America:— 
Me^rs.  J.  &  R.  McCKA-CKKN",  38.  Queen  Street.  Cannon  Street.  London,  EC. 
^fessrs.  DUNCAN,  SH  IRil  AN,  &  CO,,  aud  Messrs.  AUSj'iN.  BALDWIN.  &  CO..  New  \  ork . 

NUREMBERG. 


HOTEL    DE    BAVIERE 

CBAYERISCHER   HOF). 

THIS  old-established,  first-class,  and  best  situated  Hotel,  in  the 
centre  of  the  town,  close  to  the  river,  contains  suites  of  apartments  and 
sinale  rooms,  all  eU^gantly  furnished  in  the  new  style.  It  is  patronised  by  the 
most  distiutruished  tamilies.  Knojlish  Divine  Service  during  the  season.  Foreign 
newspapers.^Carriages  in  the  HoteU  Omnibus  to  and  from  each  tram.  Moderate 
and  tixed  prices.  . 

HEIDELBERG, 

—    to* 

HOTEL    DE    LEUROPE. 

THIS  new,  magnificent,  first-rate  Establishment,  sur- 
rounded by  private  and  public  gardens,  with  a  view  of 
the  Castle,  and  in  the  very  best  situation  in  Heidelberg, 
enjovs  an  European  reputation. 

READING     ROOM, 

Willi   EiiS'li**^^    tvnci    ^^iiicx-iettii    I»tipei'S. 

Beduced  prices  for  protracted  stmj,  and  for 
the  Winter  Season. 

HiEFELI-GUJER,  Proprietor. 


44 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


VILLENEUVE. 


NEAB  TO  THE  CASTLE   OP  CIIILLOK. 

New  Proprietor,  GUSTAVE  WOLFF. 

Same  Proprietor  as  of  the   Hotel  de  VEcu  at   Geneva. 

FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL,  oiferin j^  every  comfort  for  an  agreeable  residence ; 
surroundixl  by  a  vast  Park  and  a  beauiilul  Garden,  and  admirably  Mtuated  for  excursions 
to  the  mountains.  Reading,  Billiard,  and  Smoking;  Rooms.  Reduced  prices  for  a  prolonged 
stay.  Horses  and  Carriages.  Breakfast ;  Table^'Hote.  Private  Dinners  at  any  hour.  English 
spoken.    Landing  place  for  Steamers.     Telegraph  Bureau. 


GENEVA.    (SWITZERLAND.) 


HOTEJL     X> 


l'e:ctj, 


New  Proprietor,  GUSTAVE  WOLFF. 

Also  Proprietor  of  Hotel  Bi/ron,  near  Villencuve. 
^PHTS  unrivalled  and  admirably  conducted  Hotel  lias  long  enjoyed  an 

A  extensive  and  high  reputuMon  among' Travellers.  Situated  in  the  finest  part  of  the  town, 
and  facing  the  lake,  it  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the  environs.  Its  accommodation  is  of 
BO  superior  a  character,  that  tourists  will  find  it  a  highly  desirable  place  of  residence  or  of 
temporary  sojourn.  Table-d'HOte  at  l  o'clock.  4  fr. ;  at  5  o'clock,  4  Ir.  ArrangHnienis  made 
^vith  families  during  the  winter  mouths  at  very  reasonable  charges.  Xew  Reading  and 
Smoking  Rooms. 

GENEVA. 
Manufactory  of  Musical  Boxes. 

SAMUEL  TROLL  FILS, 

WHOr.ESALE,      RE  i  Air.,      EXPORTA'riOX. 

6,    RUE   BOXIVARD, 
GROUND  FLOOR,  NEAR  TEE  ENGLISH  CHURCH,  GENEVA, 


DRESDEN. 


GRAND   HOTEL  DE   SAXE. 

THIS  well-known  First-class  Hotel, kept  by  Messrs.  MAX  and 
CHAKLKS  DOKN,  has  been  recently  enlarged  and  embellishe«l.  It  contains 
150  Front  Rooms,  and  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  at  the  New  Square, 
in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  all  the  curiosities.  Table-d'Hote  at  one  and  four 
o'clock,  in  the  splendid  dining-hall  first-floor.  Carriages,  Reading-room,  with 
English  and  American  Papers,  and  Smoivinc'-rooni.  M'lch  veined  prices  for 
the  winter. 


1871. 


MlTRRAY'S  HANDfeOOK  ADVERTISER. 


45 


DIEPPE. 

HOTEL    KOYAL, 

FACING     THE     BEACH, 

Close  to  the  Bathing  Establishment  and  the  Parade. 


I 


T  IS  ONE  OF  THE  MOST  PLEASANTLY  SITUATED  HOTELS 

IN  DIEPPE,  commanding  a  beautiful  and  extensive  View  of  the 
Sea. 

Families  and  Gentlemen  visiting  Dieppe  will  find  at  this  Establish- 
ment elegant  Large  and  Small  Apartments,  and  the  best  of  accommo- 
dation, at  very  reasonable  prices.  Large  Reading-room,  with  French 
and  English  Newspapers. 

The  Refreshments,  &c.,  are  of  the  best  quality. 

In  fact,  this  Hotel  fully  bears  out  and  deserves  the  favourable  opinion 
expressed  of  it  in  Murray's  and  other  Guide  Books. 

TaUe-d^IJote  and  Private  Dinners. 

NUREMBERG. 


RED    HOUSE    HOTEL 

(Rothes  Ross), 
Proprietor  :  »I.  P.  GALIMBERTI.     Manager:  M.  BAUER. 

THIS  excellent  old-est.iblished  Hotel,  situated  in  one  of  the  best  quartere  of  the 
town,  is  well  adapted  for  Tourists  and  Families  making  a  visit  to  Nuremberg  of 
some  duration,  and  who  will  find  every  conceivable  comfort  and  convenience. 
Table-d'Hdre  at  1  P.M.,  and  Private  Dinners  at  all  hours.  The  Establishment 
will  be  found  well  worthy  of  the  renown  and  patronage  it  has  enjoyed  from  English 
travellers  of  the  highest  nmk  during  many  years^^ 

^Z  O  U  G . 


STAG    HOTEL.       Near   the    Steamboat   landing-place* 
Beautifully  situated,  and  the  best  Hotel  in  the  town.      Moderate  prices. 
A  lai-ge  and  elegantly  fitted-up  Dining  Hall. 

Poard  and  Residence,  o  to  %  francs  per  day. 

BRUXELLES. 

^PHE   GRAND   HOTEL  DE   SAXP:,   Rue    Neuve,  77  and  79,  is 

J-  admirably  situated  close  to  the  Boulevards  and  Theatres,  and  is  the  nearest  Hotel  to  the 
Railway  Stations.  The  Hotel  is  considerably  enlarged,  and  has  a  new  DiniDg-room  which 
will  contain  300  persons.  Fixed  prices  :-Plain  Breakfast.  Uf. ;  Dinner  at  the  Table-d  hSte, 
3*  t  •  Bedrooms  4-50  f.,  5-50 1.,  6 1.  the  first  night  each  bed,  Service  and  Candles  nicluded ;  the 
second  nicht  3-75  f.,  4-75  f.,  and  5-25  f;  Sitting-rooms,  3  to  121.;  Steaks  or  Cutlets.  Inf. 
rravellers  must  beware  of  coachmen  and  conductors  of  omnibuses  who  endeavour  to  drive 
them  to  some  other  hotel. 


46 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


1871. 


MURRAY*S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


4? 


RHEINFALL,    NEUHAUSEN,   SCHAFFHAUSEN. 


»'::;-.;:^|*iyi! 


'   t^  '^' 


'  ""r^ 


*^l*,aAi^r^' 


HOTEL  SCHWEIZERHOF.     ruoraiEioR,  Mn.  WEUENSTEIX. 
npHE  HOTEL   SCHWEIZERHOF,  known  to  En-li«h  visitors  as 

X     one  of  thp  best  Hotels  in  Switzerland,  has  been  greatly  enlargi^d  since  last  year  and  is 
now  a  !«plpndi(l  tirst-rate  fstublishmenf.  ' 

The  SCHWKIZKKIIOF  is  situate  opposite  the  celebrated  Falls  of  the  Rhine,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  hue  park  and  garden.     'Jhe  position  is  uri.>urpassed,  the  eye  ranginu'  a  distance 
of  abovt»  180  miles— a  panoramic  view  including  the  whole  range  of  the  Swiss  Alps  and  Jhe 
Mont  Blanc     Healthy  climate.    Church  Service.    Preserved  Trout  Fishing. U'rices  moderate 
Pension.    Hotel  Omnibuses  at  Neuhausen  and  Schaffhausen  " 


BARCELONA. 


-•o*- 


A 


GRAND    HOTEL    DES    QUATRE    NATIONS. 

7.V  THE  EAMBLA, 
Kept  by  Messrs.  FORTIS  &  00. 

''PHIS  is  a  first-rate  "Rstablialiment,  advnntni^cously  situated  close  to 
^  the  Post-office  and  the  Theatre,  with  a  southerti  aspect,  and  newlv  decorated.  Table- 
d'h6te;  private  servire;  large  and  nmall  npartroents;  many  fire-places;  baths-  reading- 
rooms;  Spanish  and  foreign  newspapers.  Carriages  of  every  description.  Omnibus  at  the 
Railway  Stations.    Interpreters.    JModcrate  ttrms. 


HOMBURG. 

HOTEL   DES   QUATRE   SAISONS. 

MR.    SCHLOTTERBECK,    Pkoprieior. 
'T'HIS  Hotel  is  of  the  first  class,  and  enjovs  a  well-nieritod  remitntion. 

-t-  It  IS  situated  near  the  Spring*  and  the  Cursaal.  '  Kxcelltnt  Tabk-dH6te  and  AVlnesJ 
the  Proprietor  is  a  large  dealer  in  Wines ;  and  endeavours  to  make  the  stay  of  his  patrons  as 
comfortable  and  pleasant  as  iKjsaibie. 


MILAN. 


Hotel    Cavoniv    Place    Cavoiii*-, 

Just  opposite  the  Public  Gardens. 
KEPT    BY    J.    SUARDI    AND    CO. 

THIS  first-rate  Hotel  is  fitted  up  with  every  modem  appliance,  and  situated  in  the  finest 
I  part  of  Milan.  It  cfjmmands  a  fine  vi^w  of  the  Promenade  near  to  the  SUtion,  the  Grand 
Theatre,  the  National  Museum,  and  the  Protestant  Church.  Excellent  Table-d'h6te.  Charges 
very  moderate.  Baths  on  each  floor.  A  Smoiiing  and  a  Reading  Room  supplied  with  foreign 
newspapers. 

Omnibus  of  the  Hotel  at  the  arrival  of  all  trains. 

I  NTERLAC  HEN. 

HOTEL    DE    BELLE    VUE, 

Kept  by  Mr.  HERMANN  RIMPS. 

} EXCELLENT  Second-class  Hotel,  very  well  situated,  containini^  a 
-^  branch  "Pension  Felsenopg,"  with  a  fine  Garden"  attached.  It  has  been  recently  enlarged 
and  newly  furnished,  and  contains  80  Beis.  Boarders  taken  in, per  day  5^  francs  <iuriiig  the 
months  of  May,  June,  September,  Octcjber ;  and  6^  francs  per  day  during  the  months  of  July, 
and  August.  'English,  French,  and  Gf-rnian  Newspapers.  Omnibuses;  Private  Carriages, 
and  Saddle  Horses.     English  spoken.    Moderate  charges. 

INTERLAKEN, 


Hotel    and    Penj^ion    .Tvin^frau. 

Proprietor,   Mr.   F.   SEILER. 

^r^HIS  excellent  Hotel  is  situated  on  tlie  finest  Promenade,  and  is  suiTOunded  with 
I       ft  large  aiidbeauti'ul  Garden,  from  which  an  extensive  view  is  to  be  had  all  over  the 
Glaciers.     Engli^h  travellers  w  ill  find  at  this  Hotel  large  and  small  well-furnished  apartments 
and  rooms  for  families  and  single  tourists.     Moderate  charges. 

YOUNG   GENTLEMEN, 

W/HOSE  PAPtENTS   wish 

TT  to  go  Abroad,  are  received  for 
BOARD,  and  EDUCATION,  by  Rev. 
Rt.  Thomson,  draduate  of  the  London 
and  Edinburgh  Universities,  at  12,  Rut- 
land Square,  Edinbuigh. 


EXETER. 
ROYAL  CLARENCE  HOTEL, 

CATHEDRAL  YARD. 

LADIES'    COFFEE    ROOM.^ 

Hot  and  Cold  Baihs. 

W.  BIKKETT,  Proprietor. 


BELLAGIO,    LAKE    OF    COMO. 


-*0*' 


HOTEL  AND  PENSION  VILLA  GIULA 

(CHATEAU  DU  ROI  DES  BELGES). 

THE  undersigned  has  the  honour  to  announce  to  Tourists 
that  the  beautitul  VILLA  GIULIA  has  be.-n  transformed  into  an  Hotel,  atid  will  be 
opened  for  the  Second  Season  from  tiie  J  si  of  APRIL,  ls7I.  The  fine  position  ot  the  Palace, 
which  commands  a  view  of  the  two  brajichcs  of  the  Luke,  a  park  of  250  hectares,  and  the 
beauty  of  the  cardens,  united  with  the  comforts  and  conveniences  which  King  experitnce 
has  suggested,  do  not  fail  to  make  a  stay  agpeahle  aid  pltasant  to  all  Travell.  rs  who 
visit  it.  He  has  the  honour  to  announce  that  in  his  Hotel  "<iKANf)K  BKE  rAGNK,'' also 
at  Bellagio,  he  has  inircKiuced  every  convcnierce  possible  which  cnnnot  fail  to  render  it  an 
agreeable  and  comforuble  abode  to  all  who  will  favour  it  with  their  patronage. 

A.  MELLA,  Managing  Proprietor. 


48 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  AD7ERTISKR. 


May, 


NOTHING     LIKE    IRON. 

A  FRIEND  boasts  of  his  iron  constituliou, 
and  says  that  he  Is  always  cheerful,  hearty,  and  as 
strong  as  old  nails;  such  splendid  condition  of  bodily  and 
mental  vigour  he  mainly  aitnhntos  to  pood  rfc?;Mlar  living, 
and  the  occasional  use  of  PARR'S  LIFE  PlLLiS. 
Phis  pure  herbal  medicine  is  everywhere  acceptable,  and  its 
vonderful  curative  properties  are  as  familiar  to  the  million 
IS  '■  household  words." 

In  boxes,  Is.lid.,  2s.  9<i.,  and  in  Family  Packets,  Us.  each  . 
Sold  by  all  Chemists. 

May  also  be  had  at  all  the  principal  Drug  Stores  in  the 
East  and  West  Jndies,  South  America,  Australia,  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  New  Zealand,  &c. 


LYNTON,    NORTH    DEVON. 
THE  VALLEY  OF  ROCKS   HOTEL. 

JOHN   CROOK,    rROPRIETOR. 

The  above  well-known  Hotel  has  lately  had  extensive  alterations,  additions  and  improve- 
ments.   Jt  contains  all  the  appointments  of  a  First-Class  Establishment. 

Charges  strictly  moderate.    Situation  unrivalled.    Splendid  views  of  Land  and  Sea. 

Handsome  Coffee  Rooms. 

Most  conveniently  situate  as  a  centre  for  visiting  all  the  places  of  interest  in  the  districf. 

Post  Horses  and  Carriages. — Stables  and  ('o(tch  Houses. 

Coaches  during  the  season  to  llfracombe,  Barnstaple,  and  the  West  Somerset  Railway. 

VEVAY  (Switzerland). 


H  <>  'X^  13  L      3J:  O  >'  ]V  13  rj^, 

Dlt  des  3  Couronnes. 

Messrs.  SCHOTT  &  CO.,  Proprietors,  and  Successors  to  Mr.  Monnet. 
^PHIS  Large  and  First-class  Establishment,  situated  close  to 

-^  the  Lake,  allbrds  superior  accommodation  for  Families  and  Gentlemen.  It  has 
been  lately  considerably  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  a  new  Wing  looking  upon  the 
Lake,  in  which  is  the  largest  and  most  elegant  Salle -a-Manger  in  Switzerland.  It  is 
extensively  patronised  for  its  comfoit  and  cleanliness.  Persons  remaining  some 
time  will  find  this  a  most  desirable  Residence;  and  from  October  15  to  June  1 
they  can  live  here  moderately  en  pension. 

DIEPPE. 

HOTEL    DE~S    BAINS 

(MORGAN), 

FACING  the  Sea  and  Baths,  of  the  Highest  Class,  qiiietj 
tlioroughly  recommendable.   A  laige  private  House  also  on  the  beach  for  F«milies. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


49 


"VIEIVIVA.   f^Vixstx-ia). 


HOTEL    "ARCHDUKE    CHARLES, 

Kept  by  M.  JOSEF  ZIMMEEMANN, 
The  new  Proprietor. 


99 


rpHIS  First-class  Hotel,  situated  in  the  best  part  of  Vienna, 
Ims  been  greatly  improved  in  modern  comfort,  recherche 
cuisine  and  excellent  service  at  moderate  charges.  The 
Landlord  will  spare  no  trouble  to  maintain  its  ancient  repu- 
tation, and  to  give  satipfaction  to  the  travelling  Gentry  and 
Nobility. 

GENOA. 


HOTEL  DES  QUATRE  NATIONS. 


CEVASCO  BROTHERS,   Proprietors, 


THIS  Hotel  can  be  strongly  recommended :  it  is  in  one  of  the  best 
situations  in  Genoa,  and  travellers  will  find  there  very  good  l-ootns, 
moderate  charges,  cleanliness,  excellent  Table-d'hote,  as  well  as  private 
service,  with  great  attention  and  civility  ;  the  comfort  of  visitors  being 
consulted. 


•x  "-v^y^^*  '%  /^  *  vrx^x. 


English  spoken  ly  the  Proctor, 


50 


AlUKRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVEKTISKR. 


Waj, 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


51 


FRANKFORT    O.    M. 


TiilEDRICH    BOHLEK, 

ZEIL,    No.   54, 


NEXT  DOOR  TO  TIIK  POST  OFFICE. 


PRTZK     MKDAI.,     LONDON.     IBO^i. 


^'^  tJjl%  Pra^'  -^  '..'  d%%  ..  ^  •"■    .  ;  f5->    *"■«  *.f  '1    Si  ^'    ,      '    .    '•■•     wH 

▼■til  Isil    ^      >      »/'«,,  S  l,"  W     ,  .     *       ,.,  ;         ._     .        .  'i  -.'•     „  j|(.^,:     .  4  ft   ^    ^  ^    •  <       "^    ^^ 


i^.A.n:srTj:F'j^CTOi^-y    o:f 
CARVED    STAGHORN    AND    IVORY    ORNAMENTS, 

CARVP:D  wood  work  (Vieuxcbenc)  Furniture  &  Fancy  Objects, 
f  (orhs,    ^'umps.    ^ronus,    Cbin:r,  i^antn   Articles  of  tbcrn   pcscription. 

SPECIALTTIKS     OF     GERMAN     ARTICLES 

Vienna  Bronzes,  Marquetry,  Leather  and  Meerschaum  Goods,  Travelling 

Articles,  Toilette  Eequisites,  etc.,  etc. 

SUPERIOR    COPIES   OF   THE    ARIADNE    BY    DANNIGKER. 

Oenuine  Eau  de  Cdoijne  of  Jean  Marie  Farina^  02)2>osite  the  JiiUchsjjlafZ: 

FIXED    PRICES. 

The  Agents  in  Loudon  are  Messrs.  J.  aud  R.  McCrackex,  38,  Queen  Street, 

Canuou  Street  West. 


THE 


NATIONAL  PROVINCIAL  BANK  of  ENGLAND 

ESTABLISHED  IN  THE  YEAR  1833. 


Head  Office— ^SHOPSG  ATE  STREET,  corner  of  THREADNEEDLE  STREET, 
St.  James'  Branch— 14,  WATERLOO    PLACE.    PALL    MALL. 
St.  Marylebone  „      28,  BAKER   STREET. 
Islington  „     173,  UPPER   STREET. 


SUBSCRIBED    CAPITAL      

PAID-UP    CAPITAL        

RESERVE   FUND      

No.  of  SHAREHOLDERS 


•••         •»•         ••• 


..£2,550,000  0  0 

1,170,000  0  O 

276,840  8  5 
2,273. 


JBircctar^. 


Rijfht  Hon.  Lord  Ernest  Augustus  Charles 
Bkudknkll  Rrucf,  M.P.,  7.  St.  Gtorge's 
Place,  Hyde  Park  Corner,  S.W. 

JoHv   Oliver   Hanson,  Esq.,  4,  Dorset 
Square. 

John  Kingston,  Esq..  6,  Croeby  Square. 

Hknrt    M'Chlery,  Esq.,   16,  Leadenhall 
Street. 

Hknrt  Paui.l,  Esq.,  33,  Devonshire  Place, 
Portland  Place,  W. 

John  Stewart,  Esq.,  4,  Bank  Buildings, 
Lothbury.* 


Sir  James   Sibbald   David    Scott,   Bart. 

18,  Cornwall  Gardens,  W. 
Richard  Bijiney  Wadk,  E.-q.,  13,  Seymour 

Street.  Portman  Square,  W. 
Hon.    Eliot    Thomas    Yokke,    15,    Park 

Street,  Grosvi-Dor  Square,  W. 
Duncan  Macdonald,  Ksfj-.Weybank  Lodge, 

Guildford,  Surrey,  and  Belgrave  Mansions, 

Grosvenor  Gardens. 
George  Hanbury  Field,  Esq.,  67,  Eccleston 

Square. 
Alex.   Robertson,  Esq.,20,  Grafton  Street, 

Berkeley    Square,  W.,  and  the  College, 

Klgin,  N.B. 


The  National  Provincial  Bank  of  England,  having  numerous  branches  hi  England  and 
Wales,  as  well  as  agents  and  airrespondents  at  home  and  abroad,  affords  great  facilities  to 
parties  transacting  Banking  business  with  It  in  London.  Customers  keeping  accounts  with 
the  Bank  in  town  may  have  moneys  paid  to  their  credit  at  its  various  branches,  and  remitted 
free  of  charge. 

Current  accounts  conducted  at  the  Head  Office  and  Metropolitan  Branches  on  the  usual 
terms  of  London  Banks. 

Deposits  at  interest  received  in  London  of  sums  of  lOl.  and  upwards,  for  which  receipts  are 
granted,  called  "  Deposit  Receipts;"  and  interest  allowed  according  to  the  value  of  money 
from  lime  to  time  as  advertised  by  the  Bank  in  the  newspapers. 

The  Agency  of  Country  and  Foreign  Banks,  whether  Joint  Stock  or  Private,  is  undertaken. 

Purchases  and  Sales  effected  in  all  British  and  Foreign  Stocks ;  and  Dividends,  Annuities, 
&c.,  received  for  customers. 

Circular  Notes  and  Letters  of  Credit  are  issued  for  the  use  of  Travellers  on  the  Continent 
.and  elsewhere. 

The  Officers  of  the  Bank  are  bound  to  secrecy  as  regards  the  transactions  of  its  customers. 

Copies  of  the  last  Annual  Rep(»rt  of  the  Bank,  Lists  of  Sliareholders,  Branche.s  Agonts, 
and  Correspondents,  may  be  had  on  application  at  the  Head  Office,  and  at  any  of  the  Bank's 
Brancbeti. 

By  order  of  the  Directors, 


E.  ATKINSON, 
WM.  HOLT, 


)         Joint 

3  General  Managers. 

K  2 


52 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


PENZANCE,    CORNWALL. 

MOUNT'S  BAY  HOUSE, 

ESPLANADE,   PENZANCE,   CORNWALL, 

Has  been  erected  and  fitted  up  expressly  as  a 
SEASIDE 

FAMILY  HOTEL  &  SUPERIOR  LODGING-HOUSE. 

NO  expense  or  labour  has  been  spared  by  the  Proprietor. 
The  house  is  funiished  in  the  most  modern  style,  is  well  supplied  with  Hot 
and  Cold  Baths,  and  replete  with  every  accommodation  suitable  lor  Tourists  to 
West  CoiTiwall. 

All  the  Drawing  Rooms  command  an  uninterrupted  and  tmuurpass^^ff  view  of  that 

'  Beauteous  gem  set  in  the  silver  6<>ft,' 
St.  Michael's  Mount,  and  the  whole  of  the  mngnifirent  Bay. 

Invalids  will  find  in   Mount's  Bay  House  the  comforts  of  a  home,  while  the 
beauty  and  salubrity  of  the  situation,  and  its  nearness  to  the  charming  walks  on 
the  sea-shore,  render  it  a  healthy  and  delightful  residence. 
Suites  of  apirtments  for  families  of  distinction. 
Choice  Wiues  and  Ales.     Post  Horses  and  Carriages.     Charges  moderat<». 

E.  LAVIN,  Proprietor. 


ANTWE  R  P, 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


53 


VENICE. 


GRAND  HOTEL  VICTORIA. 

(Formerly  REGINA  D'lNGHILTERRA.) 

ROBERT    ETZENSBERGER,  Manager. 


'-„•"",/ ■•^.^- 


THE  largest  and  finest  Hotel  in  Venice,  most  conveniently 
situated  near  the  Piazza  S.  Marco  and  the  principal  Theatres.  180  Bed- 
rooms, Private  Sitting-rooms,  Reading-room,  with  Piano,  Billiard-room,  and 
Smoking-room.  Baths  of  every  description,  great  comfort  and  cleanliness.  Service 
on  the  Swiss  system.     Charges  more  moderate  than  in  any  other  first-class  Hotel. 

Arrangements  for  Pension. 

English   spoken  by  all  the  Servants. 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


HOTEL  DU  GRAND  LABOIIREUR, 

PLACE  DE  MEIR,  26. 

This  old-eBtablishod  and  highly-recommended  Hotel,  which 
has  been  considerably  enlarged,  is  situated  in  the  finest  and 
healthiest  sq^uare  of  tlio  city  of  Antwerp ;  its  cleanliness  and 
the  excellency  of  tho  Table-d'Hote  and  Wines,  added  to  the 
attention  and  civility  shown  to  all  visitors,  liavo  mnde  it 
deservedly  popular. 

HOT  AND  COLD  BATHS. 
ENGLISH  AND  FRENCH  NEWSPAPERS. 


,#' 


^\ 


HOTEL    D'ANGLETERRE. 

JAMES  MISSIRIE,  Proprietor. 

''PHIS  long-established  aaid  well-known  Hotel,  situated  in 
i  the  GKaND  rue  DH  PEliA,  commanding  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
UNRIVALLED  BOSPHOHUS,  is  replete  with  every  comfort  and  convenience  for 
the  Accommodation  of  Families  and  Tourists. 

A  Select  Table-d'Hote. 

In  consequence  of  the  largely  increasing  number  of  Visitors  to  the  OTTOMAN 
CAPITAL,  from  the  facility  with  which  it  Qi\\\  now  be  reached  from  nil  parts  of 
Europe,  and  Passengers  who  Select  this  agreeable  Route  to  and  from  INDIA  and 
the  EAST,  it   is  requeste<l  that  Families  desirous  of  securing  Rooms  telegrnph  or 
write  in  anticipation.     Every  atte?ition  will  be  paid  to  instructions  thus  transmitted. 

CAREFULLY  SELECTED  INTERPRETERS  FOR  ALL 

LANGUAGES. 

27,6  AttciKlauts  and  Hoofs  of  the  Ilold  aim'l  the  arrhal  of  tie  f^hamers. 


54 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


RUSSIA. 


HOTEL  BILLO,   MOSCOW, 

GREAT    LUBIANKA    STREET. 


Troprietor,  Mr.  EDWAED    BILLO. 


ALliEADY  advantageously  known  for  these  past  20  Years, 
-*"*-  and  of  late  considcrat>lv  Enlarged,  and  newly  Furnislied  with  all  the 
requirements  of  modern  times,  this  FIRST-CLASS  FAMILY  HOTEL, 
entirely  Private,  has  merited,  under  the  careful  attention  of  the  Proprietor, 
for  its  «*onift»rt,  cloiinliness.  and  order,  the  unquestionable  patronage  of  the 
most  distinguished  Travellers. 

This  Hotel  is  situated  in  the  highest  and  healthiest  part,  the  very  centre 
of  Moscow,  with  tlie  front  to  the  gunside,  and  most  convenient  for  visitors 
on  plensure  or  busii)ess,  being  near  tlie  Impt-riid  Theatre  and  Opera  House, 
the  Krcml.  nnd  the  Boulevards,  .and  also  close  to  the  C  ty,  tlic  Exchange, 
the  Post  and  Tel(>»grai)h  Otiices,  and  the  business  places  in  general. 

Single  Eooms  and  Apartments,  excellent  Table  d'Hote  Dinner  at  5J  p.ni,, 
separate  dinners,  choice  wines.     Prices  motlerate. 

Ladies'  Room,  Reading  and  Smoking  Room.  English  Newspapers,  viz.  : 
'The  Times,'* The  Graphic.*  and  'Punch;'  French  and  German  News- 
papers. Every  sort  of  information  about  the  town,  its  environs,  trade,  and 
the  inland  communications. 

Own  Letter-box.  Interpreters  and  Guides.  Bank  Notes  and  Bills  of 
Circular  Letters  changed. 

Cold,  Warm,  Shower  Baths,  Sponge  Tubs.  Equij)agcs  and  Droshkies 
at  the  door. 

No  j>ersonal  trouble  whatever  with  the  Pas.sports,  which  are  strictly 
refjuircd  by  the  })olice  office.  Own  Carriage  and  attendance  at  the  Peters- 
burg Railway  Station  to  receive  the  Travtllers  and  their  Luggage.  It  is 
advisable  to  secure  Rooms  beforehand,  especially  during  the  time  of  the 
Nishny  Fair  (in  August),  and  during  the  Carnival  time  (in  Janunry  and 
February). 

CAUTION. — Travellers  are  cautioned  not  to  confound  the  HOTEL 
BILLO  with  other  establishments  of  nearly  unisonous  names,  and 
to  take  care  not  to  allow  themselves  to  be  leil  away  by  the  Cnbmeu 
or  Iswosclitschiks  and  other  interested  persons,  especially  at 
St.  Peterslmrg,  but  lo  insist  on  being  conducted  to  the  HOTEL 
BILLO,  Great  Lubiatika  ;  in  Russian,  Gostinnitza  BiUo,  Jiahhvi 
LubianJca. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


55 


TO  CONTINENTAtelRAfflJ-ERS. 


DORRELL  &  SON'S 

15,    CHARING    CROSS,    S.W. 

Every  Information  given  respecting  Travelling  on  the  Continent. 

French  and  Italian  spoken,  and  Correspondence  carried  on  in  either  Language. 
British  Subjects  visit-  , — :^  tail,  by  post,  on  appllca- 


in<,'  the  Continent  will 
save  trouble  and  expense 
by  obtaining  their  Pass- 
ports through  the  above 
Agency.  No  personal 
attendance  is  required, 
and  country  residents 
may  have  their  Pass- 
ports forwarded  through 
the  post.  A  •  Passport 
PiiosPExrrus,'  containing 
every  particular  in  de 


y 


■  J^fSi' 


tion. 

Passports  Mounted, 
and  enclosed  in  Cases, 
with  the  name  of  the 
bearer  impressed  in  gold 
on  the  outside ;  thus  af- 
fording security  against 
injury  or  loss,  and  pre- 
venting delay  in  the 
frequent  examination  of 
the  I'assport  when  tra- 
velling. 


Fee,  Obtaining  rasspart.  Is.  6d. ;  Visas,  is.  each.    Cases,  is.  6d.  to  bs.  each. 


THE    LATEST    EDITIONS    OF    MURRAY'S    HANDBOOKS. 

English  and  Foreign  Stationery,  Dialogue  Books,  Couriers'  Bags,  Pocket- 
books  and  Purses  of  every  description.  Travelling  Inkstands,  and  a  va- 
riety of  other  Articles  useful  for  Travellers. 


CANTON  DE  VAUD,  BEX  (Switzerland). 


3>0<0«' 


G^RAND  HOTEL   DES   SALINES, 

Kept  by  L.  FELLER. 


HYDROPATHY,  RUSSIAN  BATHS,  TURKISH  BATHS. 

,SALOON    FOR    PULVERISED    SPRAY    BATHS    OF 
VARIOUS  MIXERAL  WATERS. 

Established  after  the  newest  and  most  perfect  systems  known. 


Consulting  Doctor    .    DR.  COSSY, 

LATELY    BOUSE    SURGEON    TO    THE    PARTS    HOSPITAL. 


5G 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


May, 


BY   ROYAL 


.*^5T" 


'^^^S'<i[\i^ 


COMMAND. 


JOSEPH      G I L  L  0  T  T '  8 


CELEBRATED 


STEEL     PENS. 

Sold  by  all  Dealers  throughout  the  World. 


Every  Fackct  bears  the  Fac-simile 
of  his  Signature, 


GENEVA. 
A.  GOLAY,  LERESCHE  &  SONS, 

31,   QUAI    DES    BERGUES,   and    1,  PLACE   DU   roilT, 
MANUFACTURERS  OF  WATCHES  AND  JEWELRY. 

Two  large  Establishments,  completely  furnished  with  goods  of  the  newest  designs. 

Warranted  Watches  of  all  kinds,  especially  of  Chronometers  and  with  complex 
movements.     Also  a  very  large  assortment  of  Jewelry. 

House  in  Paris,  No.  2,  RUE  DE  LA  PAIX. 

GENEVA. 


/v 


CHATEAU    DE     PRANGINS, 

TUIUTY    MINUTES    FR02I    GENEVA. 

GRAND  HOTEL,  in  one  of  the  finest  positions  on  the  Lake 
of  Geneva.       Splendid  View  of  Mont  Blanc.     Magnifi<eut  Terrace.     Neigh- 
bourhood nicely  shaded.     Princely  Habitation. 

Reduced  Price  for  a  Prolonged  Stay. 

SEBILLE,    Pkoprietor. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


57 


BOOKS  AND  MAPS  FOR  TRAVELLERS 


IN  iJi^ri. 


The  Play-ground  of  Europe.     By  Leslie  Stephen,  late 

Presidant  of  the  Alpine  Club.  With  Four  Woodcut  Illustrations  by  E.  Whympek. 
Crown  svo.,  price  1<'S.  tjci. 

Pau  and  the  Pyrenees.     By  Count  Hknry  Eussell,  Member 

of  the  Geographical  and  Geological  Societies  of  France,  of  the  Alpine  Club,  of  the 
.      Socie'te  Ramond,  &c.     With  Two  Maps  and  a  Panorama.     Square  fcap.  8vo.,  price  5«. 

Guide  to  the  Pyrenees,  for  the  Use  of  Moiuitaineers.    By 

Charles  Tacki:.  Second  Kdition,  corrected;  with  Frontispiece  and  Map,  and  an 
Appendix.    Crown  8vo.,  price  7s.  6i. 

Ball's  Guide  to  the  Western  Alps,  Mont  Blanc,  Monte 

KOSA.  &c.  Including  the  whole  range  of  the  Alps  of  Piedmont.  Daupbine,  and  Savoy, 
from  Nice  to  the  Pass  of  the  Simplon.  New  Edition,  revised.  May,  1870.  Post  »vo. 
with  Maps,  &c.,  price  10s.  CtZ. 

Ball's  Guide  to  the  Eastern  Alps,  including  the  Salzburg 

and  Central  Tvrolese  Chains,  the  Styrian  Alps,  and  the  Terglon  District  from  the  Valley 
of  the  Drave'to  the  Adriatic.  New  Edition,  1869.  Post  Svo.,  with  Maps,  &c.,  price 
10s.  i6d. 

Ball's  Guide  to  the  Central  Alps,  including  the  Bernese 

Obeiland,  with  Lorabarly  and  the  ad^joining  portion  of  the  Tyrol.  New  Edition.  1869. 
Post  8vo.,  with  Maps,  &c.,  price  7s.  6ci. 

of  the    Chain  of  Mont  Blanc,   from    an    Actual 

Survey  in  1863-1864.  Bv  A.  Apams-Ki.illy,  F.R.G.S.,  3I.A.C.  In  Chromo-lithography 
on  extra  stout  Drawing  Paper  28  inches  by  17  inches,  price  10s.  To  be  had  also  mounted 
on  Canvas,  in  a  folding  Ciise,  price  12s.  CJ. 

Map  of  the  Valpelline,  the  Val  Tournanche,   and  the 

Stnithern  Valleys  of  the  Chain  of  MONTE  KOSA,  from  an  actual  Survey  in  1865-1  ^'Ge. 
Hy  A.  Adajjs-Ueilly,  F.K.G.S.,  M.A.C.  In  Chromo-lilhography,  on  extra  stoutDrawmg 
Paper,  25  inches  by  14  inches,  price  6.s.  To  be  had  also  mounted  on  Canvas,  folded  and 
jointed,  for  Po<:k:et  or  Knapsack,  price  7«.  6d. 

The  High  Alps  without  Guides;    being  a   Narrative  of 

Adventures  in  Switzerland,  together  with  Chapters  on  the  rracticaUUty  of  such  mode  of 
Mountaineering,  and  Siipgcstious  for  its  AccompHsh merit.  By  the  Kev.  A.  G.  Girdle- 
isTONE,  M.A.    VVith  Frontispiece  and  Two  Maps.    Square  crown  8vo.,  price  7s.  Qd. 

Cadore,  or  Titian's  Country.     By  Josiah  Gilbert,  one  of 

the  AnlhoTs  of  the  '  Dolomite  Mountains.'  With  Map,  Facsimile,  and  40  Illustrations. 
Imperial  8vo.,  price  31s.  Gd. 

Zigzagging    amongst    Dolomites.       By   the  Author  of 

'How  we  Spfnt  the  Summer.'  With  upwards  of  Three  H<indrcd  Illustrations  in  fac- 
simile of  Original  Sketches  by  the  Author.    Oblong  4to., price  15s. 

Travels  in  the  Central  Caucasus  and  Bashan,  including 

Visits  to  Ararat  and  Tubrecz  and  Agents  of  Ivazln-k  and  Elbruz.  By  Douglas  W. 
FuEsHtnxi).    Wiih  Maps  and  Illustrations.    Square  crown  8vo.,  price  1»«. 


Map 


LONDON :  LONGMANS,  GREEN  &  CO.,  PATERNOSTER  ROW. 


58 


MURRAY^  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


Mar* 


GENEVA. 

No.  2,  PLACE    DES    BERGUES. 


GEO.  BAKER, 

ENGLISH   CHEMIST  AN-D   DRUGGIST, 

PRESCRIPTIONS  CAREFULLY  PREPARED. 

ALL  KINDS  OF  PATENT  MEDICINES   &   PEllVUMERl': 

Homoeopathic  Preparations.    Soda  and  Saratoga  "Water. 

Medicines  and   Preparations   forwarded  with   the  greatest  despatch   and 
safety  to  all  parts  of  Switzerland  by  Post. 

ROME. 

17    &    18,   VIA    BELLA    MEROEDE. 


GEO.  BAKER, 

EIVOLTSH    OHEl^IJ^T,    OEIVKVA, 

INFORMS  the  Inhabitants  and  Visitors  of  Rome  that  he  has  opened  an 
Establishment  at  tlie  above  address,  for  the  supply  of  Ens^lish  specialities 
and  goods  adapted  for  the  use  of  Families  at  prices  far  inferior  to  those 


hitherto  charged  in  Rome. 


NICE. 


PHARMACIB  DANIEL  ET  C'^- 

QUAI  MASSENA. 


GEO.   BAKER, 

INFORMS  the  Visitors  and  Residents  of  Nice,  that  he  has  succeeded  to 
the  above  old  ej>tjiblished  and  justly  renowned  Pharmacy,  and  tiiat  having 
associated  with  him  Mr.  GEORGE  BUSBY,  who  for  nine  years  past  has 
been  Assistant  Manager  of  it,  he  hopes  by  careful  attention  and  a  moderate 
Scale  of  Charges,  not  only  to  maintain,  but  to  extend,  its  ancient  and  well 
deserved  reputation. 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


59 


THE  FURNISHING  OF  BED-ROOMS. 


HEAL  &  SON  have  16  separate  Rooms,  each  completely  furnished  with 
a  different  Suite  of  Furniture,  irrespective  of  their  general  Stock  displayed 
in  Six  Galleries  and  Two  Large  Ground-floor  Warerooms,  the  whole 
forming  tlie  most  complete  stock  of  Bed-room  Furniture  in  the  Kingdom. 

Japanned  Deal  Goods  may  be  seen  in  complete  suites  of  five  or  six 
difterent  colours,  some  of  them  light  and  ornamental,  and  others  of  a 
plainer  description.  Suites  of  Stained  Deal  Gothic  Furniture,  Polished 
Deal,  Oak,  and  Walnut,  are  also  set  apart  for  separate  rooms,  so  that 
customers  are  able  to  see  the  effect  as  it  w^ould  appear  in  their  own  rooms. 
A  Suite  of  very  superior  Gotliic  Oak  Furniture  will  generally  be  kept  in 
stock,  and  from  time  to  time  new  and  select  Furniture  in  various  woods 
will  be  added. 

Bod  Furnitures  are  fitted  to  the  Bedsteads  in  large  numbers,  so  that  a 
complete  ns^iortment  may  be  seen,  and  the  eflfect  of  any  particular  pattern 
ascertained  as  it  would  appear  on  the  Bedstead. 

A  very  large  stock  of  Bedding  (HEAL  &  SON'S  original  trade)  is 
placed  on  the  BEDSTEADS. 

The  Stock  of  Mahogany  Goods  for  the  better  Bed-rooms,  and  Japanned 
Goods  for  plain  and  fc'ervants'  use,  is  very  greatly  increased.  The  entii-e 
Stock  is  arranged  in  sixteen  rooms,  six  galleries,  each  120  feci  long,  and 
large  ground-floors,  the  whole  forming  as  complete  an  assortment  of  Bed- 
room Furniture  as  they  think  can  i)ossibly  be  desired. 

Every  attention  is  paid  to  the  manufacture  of  the  Cabinet  work  and 
they  liave  largo  Worksliops  on  the  premises  for  this  purpose,  that  the 
manufacture  may  be  under  their  own  immediate  care. 

Their  Bedding  trade  receives  their  constant  and  personal  attention, 
every  article  being  made  on  the  premises. 

They  particularly  call  attention  to  their  Patent  Spring  Mattrass,  the 
Soramier  Elasticiue  Porta tif.  It  is  portable,  durable,  and  elastic,  and  lower 
in  price  than  the  old  Spring  Mattrass. 


HEAL   AND    SON'S 

riLUSTPATED  CATALOGUE  OF 

BEDSTEADS,  BEDDING,  &  BED-ROOM  FURNITURE, 

SKNT  FRKE  BY  POST. 

196,  197,  198,  TOTTENHAM   COURT    ROAD. 


60  •  MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER.  May, 

VISITORS    TO     NAPLES, 

GENERAL  AGENCY  &  COMMISSION  OFFICE  of  the  BRITISH  LIBRARY 

{Establhhed  in  1837  by  Mrs.  Dorant), 

DIRECTED  Br 

GEORGE    CIVALLERI, 

Palazzo   Friozzi,   No.   267,   Riviera   di   Chiaja.    ' 

WORKS  OF  ART,  GOODS,  AND  LUGGAGE 

forwarded  to  and  received  from  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  warehoused  at  moderate  charges 

of  rent. 

BANK    BILLS,    CIRCULAR  NOTES,    AND   LETTERS   OF   CREDIT 

cashed  free  of  commission, 

couKTTR'S'  vtrmna   of   BvcR-r  sescbzptzok, 

both  in  Bottle  and  in  Cask,  for  exportation,  at  reduced  prices. 

FOREIGN  WINES,  ENGLISH  BEERS,  TEAS,^c.,  IMPORTED. 

Agency  Business  of  every  description  attended  to;    also  the  PURCHASE  of  LANDS, 
HOUSES,  or  VILLAS  for  the  account  of  Foreigners. 

Correspondents  ]  Messrs.  OLIVIER  &  CO.,  37,  Finsbury  Square. 

in  London     (  Messrs.  CHARLES  CARR  &  Co.,  14,  Bishopsgate  Street. 

FLORENCE. 

12    liXTisra-'   ^laTvTo   isrxrovo. 

MONTELATICI   BROTHERS, 

Blamtfartitifrs  of  jfl0i-tntuix  Mosiiics. 

ASSORTMENT   OF  CASKETS  AND   ALBUMS. 

COMMISSIONS     AND     EXPORTATION. 

SUCCURSALE,   BADEN-BADEN,  opposite  the  Hotel  dAnghterre. 

Small  8vo.,  38.  6d.  ESSENTIALS 

FOB 

HA.\I)BOOK-TBA\'EL  TALK         TRAVELLING. 

-^  English,    French,    German,    I^^®1^®^'«  l^^^^  "^^^^^  S^^**'  . 

Threshers  Kashmir  Flannel  Shirts. 

and    Italian,   for    the    Use    of   Thresher's  Kashmir  Woollen  Socks. 
^     ,.  ,  ,        ,      „      .  Thresher's  Coloured  Flannel  Shirts.' 

Englishmen  abroad,  or  Foreigners ,  Thresher's  Travelling  Bags. 

in  England.  |  SOLD  o.nly  BY 

TirRKSHEl^  (fe  GLENNY, 

'  NEXT  DOOR  TO  SOMERSET    HOUSE 
JOHN  MUIlliAY,  Albemarle  Street.    ^  STRAND 


1871. 


MURRATS  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


61 


BRUSSELS. 


HOTEL  DE  BELLE  YUE. 

Proprietor,  Mr.  EDWARD  DREMEL. 


^HIS  magnificent  Hotel,  in  offering  to   the  Visitor  evciy 
kind  of  comfort  and  acconiraodation,  lias  the  great  advantage  of 
being  situated  adjoining 

THE   PALACE  OF  THE   KING, 

and  facing 
THE   PLACE   ROYALE   AND   THE   PARK. 

It  contains  numerous  large  and  small  Apartments,  as  well  as  single 
Hooms. 

TabU^d'Hote^  richly  served.     Choice  Wines, 

SMOKING    ROOM. 

READINO   ROOITI,   trlth   the   best   BetgiaM,   English,    French, 
Oermattt  and  American  Dailr  Papers  and  PeriodicaU. 

Terraces,  with  Splendid  View  overlooking   the  Park. 

ARRANGEMfiNTS   MADE   FOR  fHE   WINTER. 


Mr.  Dremel,  the  new  Proprietor  of  this  Hotel,  hopes  to  justify  the 
confidence  placed  in  him,  by  a  carefully  arranged  system  of  prompt  an^l 
civil  attendance,  combined  with  moderate  cliarges. 


62 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVKKTISER. 


May, 


1871. 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK.  ADVERTISER. 


63 


^I^I>E^L. 


I^HE    COMMITTEE    of    the    CHUECH    of   ENGLAND 

EDUCATION  SOCIETY  earnestly  a].peal  for  increased  funds  to  enable  theni 
to  continue  the  Society's  operations. 

Many  of  our  Schools  for  the  Poor  are  either  absolutely  dependent  upon  the 
Society's  giants,  or  would  be  crippled  in  their  work  without'such  aid.  The  same 
may  be  said  of  many  Pupil  Teachers  who  have  been  enabled  to  complete  their 
course  of  training. 

The  Society  also  supplies  SCHOOLS  with  all  kinds  of  Registers  and  Stationery  nt 
reduced  prices. 

The  Society's  means  are  far  from  adequate  to  the  exigencies  of  the  present  time 
which  urgently  demand  every  possible  effort  to  secure  for  an  increasing  population 
a  sound  Protestant  Education. 

F.  MAUDE,  R.N.,  Chairman. 

REGINALD   GUNNERY,  Hon,  Clcr.  Sec. 
11,  Adam  Street,  Adelphi,  W.C. 


ST.    PETERSBURG. 


-K>^ 


HOTEL    D'ANGLETERRE, 

ST.    ISAAC'S    SQUARE, 

{Gostinitza  Anglcterrc,    Issakofski  Snlwr.) 

H.    SOHMITZ,   Proprietor. 

'THIS  new  and  well-conducted  Hotel,  situated  in  the  centre 

,7",  ^^  *^^  ^'*/'  ^''""^  ^^^  ^*-  ^"''^■'^'^  Church,  near  the  Post-olhce,  the  Roval 
Palaces  and  Pubhc  Buildings,  affords  lar^e  suites  of  well-furnished  Apartments 
lor  Families,  and  comfortable  and  airy  Bedrooms  for  Single  Gentlemen  A  lartre 
Dming-room  wheie  Dinners  are  served  from  Three  till  Seven  o'CIock  fioni 
one  rouble  and  above.  A  well-furnished  Reading-ioom.  The  «  Time^  and 
other  English,  French,  and  German  Newspapers. 

HOT  AND    COLD   BATHS,    TUBS,  'aND   SITTING    BATHS. 
Guides  and  Servants  speaking  English. 

Omnibuses  at  the  St<itions,  and  Stenmboats  near  Landing-places  from  Stockholm 

and  England. 

Tin:  queen's  ^iessexgers  frequent  this  hotel. 

A. B.— Misses  Bensons'  Hotel  no  longer  ezistt. 


LUCERNE. 


ENGLISOHEK    HOF.— HOTEL 
d'ANGLETEEKE. 

Proprietor— JEAN   REBER. 

THIS  First-rate  Establishment,  very- 
well  recoramended  by  the  bf  st  class  of 
Travellers,  is  situated  close  to  the  Steamers' 
l>anding-place,  and  vis-it-inx  the  Poiilway  Sta- 
tions, on  tlie  loveliest  position  of  the  Lake, 
with  superb  views  of  the  Rigi,  Pilatu?,  Alps, 
and  Glaciers;  contains  several  Saloons,  62 
comfortable  llooms,  Smoking  and  Reading 
Rooms,  where  are  French  and  English  news- 
papers. 

Charge  for  Rooms  per  diem,  Ifr.  50c. 
to  3fr. 
Table  d'Hote,  at  1    •  •  •    3fr. 
4*30  .  .    4fr. 
7'30  .  .    3fr. 


NOTICE. 


ti 


>> 


>» 


»» 


The  '  Times'  '  Calvjnani'  ' I'Indepen- 
dance.'  the  *  Bund,'  and  other  German, 
French,  and  American  papers  are  taken  for 
the  Reading  Room. 

A    PEACTICAL    INTRODUCTION 

TO  Tni: 

NORWEGIAN  LANGUAGE, 

CONSISTIKG  OP 

GRAMMAR  AND  EXERCISES  FOR  THE 

USE  OF  ENGLISH  TRAVELLERS 

JX  NORWAY. 

BY 

J.  Y.  SARGENT.  M.A., 

Fellow  of  Alagdahn  College,  Oxford. 

W  I  V I  N  G  T  O  N  S. 

ROTTERDAM. 


LETTS,  SON,  k  CO. 

(  L  I  M  I  T  ED), 

8,  ROYAL  EXCHANGE, 

LONDON,    E.G., 

SUPPPLT 

PASSPORTS 

Within  24  Hours'  Notice,  to  any  part  of* 
the  Kingdom,  on  receipt  of  the  necessary 
Banker's  Recommendation. 

They  have  also  a  very  complete  Set  of 

MAPS 

by  Foreign  Publishers  and  Governments, 


AMD 


GUIDE    BOOKS, 


IN 


English,  ^xtwth,  ant^  *(J5erman, 

to  all  parts  of  the  Tourist  World. 


H.  A.  KRAMERS, 

Importer  of  Poreig-n  Books. 

Mr.  Murray's  •  Handbooks  for  Travellers, 
Bradshaw's  Monthly  Railway  Guides,  Bar- 
dekkr's  •  Reischandbiicher,'  and  Hen)>- 
scHEL's  '  Telegraph,'  always  in  Stock. 

English,  French,  and  German  Books  im- 
ported Weekly,  and  a  great  variety  of  Kew 
Books  kept  in  Store. 

47,*GELDERSCHE  KADE. 


CATALOGUES  ON  APPLICATION. 

LETTS,  SON,&  CO. 

(LIMITED), 
Agents  for  the  Sole  of  the 

ORDNANCE      MAPS 

OF  THE 

UNITED    KINGDOM.    ^ 


64 


MURRAY'S  HANDBOOK  ADVERTISER. 


iMay,  187t. 


ESTABLISHED     183,Q. 

THE  ORIGINAL  GUIDE  &  TRAVELLERS'  DEPOT, 

AND 


LEE  &  GARTER, 

■440,  WEST    STRAND,    LONDON 

(Nearly  opposite  the  Charing  Cross  Hotel). 


KNAPSACKS 

STIFF   on    LIMP. 


PORTMANTEAUX 

OF  ALL   TATTEUNS. 


BAGS 


OF  ALL   KINDS. 


Intending  Tourists  are  respectfully  invited  to  rnsit  this  Esiahlishmcni 
before  iimMng  purchases  for  their  journey. 

AN  EXTENSIVE  STOCK  OF  TRAVELLERS'  REQUISITES  TO  SELECT  FROM:~ 


Guide  Books  (in  pocket  bindings. 
Maps  and  Plans  of  all  Parts. 
Foreign  Dictionaries. 
Dialogues  and  Grammars. 
Polyglott  Washing  Books. 
Journals  and  Diaries. 
Pocket  Books  and  Note  Cases. 
Purses,  Sov.  and  Nap.  Cases. 
Money  Belts  and  Bags. 
Writing  Cases  and  Blotters. 
Ink  Stands  and  Light  Boxes. 
Foreign  Stationery. 
Travelling  Chess  Boards,  &c. 
Knives,  Scissors,  &  Corkscrews. 
Barometers  &  Thermometers. 
Field  Glasses  &  Compasses. 
Eye  Preservers  and  Spectacles. 
Railway  Rugs  and  Straps. 


Hat  Cases  and  Bonnet  Boxes. 
Luggage  Straps  and  Labels. 
Travelling  Lamps. 
Camp  Candlesticks. 
Flasks  and  Drinking  Cups. 
Sandwich  Cases. 
Luncheon  Baskets. 
Dressing  Cases  &  Housewives 
Soap  and  Brush  Boxes. 
Sponge  and  Sponge  Bags. 
Baths  and  Air  Cushions.  • 
Waterproofs  &  Foot  Warmers. 
Camp  Stools  and  Leg  Resta. 
Portable  Closet  Seats. 
Etnas  for  boiling  water. 
Combs,  Brushes,  and  Mirrors. 
Glycerine  and  Insect  Powder. 
Door  Fasteners,  &c.,  &c^,  &c. 


fyoalon:  rrint?d  by  Willum  Clowes  and  Sox,'.  Stimfon!  S'rcpt  ^n<J  C^^^rinst  Cro?s . 


iri;i;AV>  iidMi:  aN!>  ( 


fit  i,\ 


\  i 


I  H  t  .  I  t  i  I  > 


MUllRAY^S     ENG 


^  '^4  ^llpt^dl; 'all  circles  and  cla.sc.  oi  Heui..-.^     r;..t  >y..^    Pnbl,.h^  at  a.  ^d 

S...  r,'i.  cacti,  and  arranged  uuder  two  distmctivo  hca-ls  .as  ,.:.,K>.nv  .  .- 

OLASS  A. 
mSTOBY.  BIOGEAFOT.  AND  HJSTOEIC  TAIES. 


1.  rilE  SIKOE  OFOIBEAI.TAR.     By 

John  DrinkwaTE!:.     'Is. 

2.  THE    A3IBKR-WITCII.      Tr.inNiated 

from  tlio  t;ern)a;i.     2,? 
3    CROMWELT.     AXi)    EUNYAN. 

By    IfetBKUT   SOUTHEY.       '.Is, 

4.  LIFE  OF  SIR   FRANCIS  DRAKF:. 

By  John  iUruiow. 
6    CAMPAIGNS    AT    WASIHNOTOX. 

Bj  llKV,  G.  II.,  Qtma.    2t. 
6    THE  FRENCH  IN  ALGIERS.    From 

tlio  Germim  and  Frcocli.    "i*. 

7.  FALL  OF  THE  JESU'ITS,     2^. 

g.  LI  VON  IAN  TALES.    ByaLAi>r.    2.^-. 

9.  LIFE    OF    THE   GREAT    CONDlt. 
By  Lord  Mahok.   'is.  0tl. 

If,   PALE'S  BRIGADE  IN  AFGHANIS^ 
TAN.    Bj  Lkv.  G.  R,  GLHia.    2*. 

11.  TIIK  TWO  SfEOKS   OF  ^VIENNA. 


I-i.  TilH    WATSfOl".   CIli'HS.      A    T:i' 

13.  TOE  LIBr:iiAT10X  WAi 
MAJ^V,       dr;r..slat(-.i 

OF  WA  n",ur<  I'),     Ly  litv.  u.  !^. 


lis    O'HU- 
-  i  R    A. 


Gl,F.!0„     ;'!• 


»;,' 


lA.  A'nTOB'OclUAl'UY  OF  :fif;'vM.V 
lu.  LIVES  OF  TllV.  lUllTISlf  !N)K.<. 
IT.  HIHTORICAfi     LSSAYS.     Ly   Lo::u 


Ma  HON 


(%('. 


13.  LIFE  01-'  LtHlO  '/"IJVi:.      Ly   Fl,,.^. 

G.  R.  GLk.!';.     :'.^'.  '-'i. 
I's).  STOKEIW   AXO   f'tiiKits:    ,,:   T^.f. 

No'iTt?  Wi„HrEr:N  i;,iiLw*.y.  Ly  ftiu 

20.  Id  F V.  f >  !•  i ;  r. N"  !■;  it  a  I.  M  r  v  n o .     By 
JLwv    G.  !k.  ULi.iU.     w*.  i-i. 


CLASS  B. 
VOYAGES,  TBATELS,  AKD  AB¥ENTUB:ES 


L  THE  BIBLE  IN  SPAIN.   By  Giioiics 

BOKROW.      'is.  M. 

2.  THE    GIPSIES    OF    SPAIN.      By 
GeoegbBobbow.    Srf.  6ti. 

3  &  4.  JOURNALS    IN    INDIA.        By 
Bishop  ilKBKB.     'J  Vols.     ,*. 

6.  TEAVEL3  IN  THE  HOLY  LAND. 

By  IiiBT  imd  Mai.'ui.es.    2*. 

6   MOROCCO  AND  TUB  MOORS.     By 

J.  Dltl'MMOKO  IUy.      2j, 

7.  LKTTERS  FROM  THE  BALTIC.   Bj 

S    SKETCHES'     OF      NEW      SOUTH 
WALErf.    By  AIes.  MMtumi.    '2». 

9   THE    NEGROKS    OF    THE    WK3T 

INDIES.      By  M.  G.  Lewis.     2*. 
10.  SKETCHES  OP  PERSLi.     By  Sta 

H    FATHER  RIPA'S  RESIDENCR  AT 
■     'the  COURT  OF  FKKIN.    2«. 

12&i3,  TYPEK  AND  OJiOO  ;    or,   rus 
Boi-TH  Ska  IsLAMPWts,    By  Uke- 

MANS   MiEI.VttLB.      2  Yols.      T^. 


14.  MISSIONARY  LII'K  JS   iMNAr  \ 

By  liEv.  J,  Aiiri-.'TT.     -'.s. 

15.  LKTTERS   FROM  MADRAS.      L,;.    . 

L.\T>Y.     l:-!- 

16.  ilfGHLANOBPGIli'd     P/IAml^k^ 

St.  JuiiN,     ;;#.  ''•-A 

17.  PAAIPAS  JOLGNLYS.    J'ySiHA.fJ. 

IlE.vti.     '2.<i. 
IS.  GATHER! NGH  FP.CVM  ^'^'AlN.     By 

BlCHAB.l»  Fnp.ii,       :"■!,•.•.   i"'/. 

19.  THE  KIAdvIl  AMAZiA'NA     By  W„    I! 

20.  MASNEUS&CUSTOM^i  Oi^  SK;.iA- 

By  Rkv-  «A  Aci.ANn.     -.■-. 
21     ,\HVLNTUItES    IN    MLXiCu.      !'y 

G.  F.  KuxTos.     Its.  G.A 
'22.  PORTUGAL  AND  C.ALMCIA.      1';^ 

Lord  Cahhahv.>s\    :.■'.  o.^ 

3.  BPSH  LIFE    IN    AU-vrUAl.iA,      !./; 
Hii.r.  H.  W.  li.4VGAR!'iL     ::i. 

24,  THELirO'AN   OKSKGL    P/JG'.  :  . 

St.  John.     i'^. 

25.  LETTERS  FROM  SIERRA  L!-./>:n  P. 

By  a  Ladv.     'i$.  Uii. 


Jac?i  ireri  may  k  fiad  $tp>j,roiuy. 


mim  MUEKAY,  ALBKMARLK  STilEKT. 


/««.  PS7L 


1 


L(».NiHsN   AS  IT  IS.     Map  and  Plans.     ]6mo.     3s.  6<f. 

K.AST!'':\    ^'(Arxrii'.S —Essex,  Cambridge,   Suffolk,    anh    Xoef^lk, 

Mi.;.      pMut  Sro.     P...^. 

KENT    ANlJ    srs<'r:.\  .— r.\STEKErin-,,    Dover,    Ramsgatf,    Uoche.«tbr, 

i'siATifAy,    iiuit^ifrrux,    CH;cuF..iT!;R,  AV.»RTifi?;o,    nASTSNOH,    P,ewf,-',  AanNr.fn- 

MiiV-     l'(.f-i  ^'vo.     iO?. 
SUIU'IKA'    aNO    HANTS       1'i.vgstox.    Croydon,    Eeig.\te,    Guildford. 

OoKKfKG.   Lki.xniLL,  Winchester,  ;-JuUTHAMPT05»f,  Poetsmoctu,  ajid  tbk  Isj..s 

ciF  Wight.     3Ii4p,    Post  Svo.  10*. 
BEllKS.   lU'TK^.    AND    0X<:)N—Wt5I!Soii,   Eton,    liEADixa,    Aylesbu'EY, 

il  F.N  LET,  Gxrt'Hi).  AN0  THB  TuAMia.     Map.     Fost  Svo, 
WILT'S.    ],)(,5U>.L'i\,    ANI»   SrHlER-SET— Saltsbury,    Chtpfexham.    Wl'Y- 

k(  .UTH.  Sh  1RB(>K!<  B,  WEI.I..3,  B4TH,   BrUI-OL.  TaVNTON.  &C.       JIap.     I'tWt  STO.      ]  '-  -t. 

l5KVA»N    ANI.)    C(:jUN\V'ALL-.~~ExETEii,    Ilfiiacombr,   LiNi-iy,    StDMorTii, 

ItAWUBlI.    TEIGNMOCTH.    PlTMOUTH,    PeTOXTORT,    TORQl-AT,    L.^U.-fCSSTOS,  .!'£» 

za'nck.  Fa LMOfXH,  The  Lisa ki*,  Land's  End,  &e.     Map.     Post  8vo.    lOit. 
GLOroHSTKU,   IIEUEFOKD,    AND   WORCESTE  "'- Cirenck^teh,    Chel- 

"^KNJIAM,  hTP.'/il-U,  TEVSKt:.-^!.;   IVY',     LROMIVSTSR,   R('3.-i   5lA.l,VEnN,   Ki.nstiSKMIXiTER, 

DEKnY,  NiPrTS,  EH fCT'sTEE.  AND  STAEFOiU)--^! ATLorjv,  Eakewrll, 

«.A»Al8WoKTB.    Phk    PK.^K.   JA.,XT.-;rK,   HaIIBWICK.   ]»i,¥F.    HaLK.    .A.S1!  3  Ji-VH.   SOCTH- 

wr.i.i,  5lANsr:fcUj,  Uetpokd.   Burtun,  Hklyoii;,  Mei.T'.>n-  Mowsha^,  Wol^uH- 
HAMVTOX,  LicHFiisLn,  WAUiAf-i.,  TAiiwoRfiJ.     Map.     Post  Svo.     li.  6?1 
SIIROrbHIKi;  €HESliIRI%  anj>  EANCAS!lIRE.-^^^-SnKEW..BrRT.  LvT)i,<v.r. 

BRir.fiN'.RTir.    ObWSSTBY,    ChKSTBR,    CRf.Vv-.;,    ALDKRLUY,     HTi.M„k;T>riT,    Lin£l,N- 
HK.VT-.    WaRF.INCTOK,    P.T'Ry,    llANCHR.STtR,    LiTERFOOL.    -PtliNLFT,     CuirHEKOE. 

B'>:.r;.>»f.    P;  Af'Kiii  ftv.    Wmav,    I'kkston,    !kioiii'.\M'",    LANi-AiTHH,,   SocTfsp'MU' , 
i.i.A.-Kr.--'..L,  AC,     Slart.     i'u«t  St o.     iUi. 
TOEKslHUK---D(>*ic.i'^TKR,  Hi:i,L.  SelkYj  Bi-vritLKt,  ScAitBoiioniHAVinTBT. 

II  Ar!K.:">GA'rE,     M'.V'jH.   I-BklX^.  ■W.4KKF1ELD,    BR.U.»i-uR0,,    UaLIIjAX,     lIUivDERir.FlKLl., 

S>;ejf!ki.d.     Map  una  I'laus,     Post  Svj.     Pit. 
I)li:iIAM  AND  NORTHUMBEREAND— Newcastle,  DAiiLixfiTox,  .BiAHor 

Al'fKLAVIV    SrorKTO-N",     .H .-i KTI.EPOOI,,    Sl?>JDERLAN»,    SillKLD.S,    BeEWIcK,   TTSt- 

M'.'i  T!{,  Ai.NWicK.     Map.     Puiit  Svii,     9j. 
'W'ESTMOELANi)    AND    CUMBEEEAND— Eaxcaster,    EtJUM'^s    Abbet, 

.^Mr^K^tiiE,    KK>T>Ar,,  Wli»l-F,R.1JHRK,  C'.>N'HTUS.    Kr.SWICK,    GtiAaMEEK,    CAttU.-jLi!C, 

CixKtimuuTH,  p£>HrrH,  AI'I'I-SBY.     Alap.     Pc^lSv-.,    i)s. 
JS'Ojrril  AN]»  b'.>i;TE^.,  AVaI.1:S— r.A.v.,o!.:,  Caii.xarvu.%%  Bk-^i-aiaws,  Snow- 

DCN'.    Cm.KWAV,    CAltMAHXtJK.S',    TS-NET,    fe  WAStiK.A,  AND  1  U  K  WYE.      Ma|i«.      2  Tobs. 

I'yst  .Svo,  l-„\f, 

SCOTLAKI). -- EiiiNBuiicir,    Melrose,   Kel^o,    Gl-^sgoav,    DrMFiUES, 
Av.t.    ^'■■:!^:I.r.NO,    Akran.  Ti-:h;  Cltbe,  Ubak,   1k"f.f,karv,  Loch   P.nMoxD,  I.,.-,c.ii 

K.MT.irilL      *Mj      TltOhACtlS,      CAI-E0.3KIAH     OaKAL,      In  VEIlVESH,     pKHTH,     DfSDKK, 

ABtRi>kfN.   i^RAKMAR,   Sk¥k,  CAITHNESS.   Kosa,   a'NIj  Sutiu:kla::i; D.     MaV'i    &rid 
PM.aus.     lA'St  Svo.     U^.. 

IBELAND. ^•Dublin,  Belfast,  Donkgal,  Gal%tat..  Wexi-ciid,  Cork, 

J.!,«  fj.iL  s,  \VATf,nt'Ui'.i»,  K.!i,LAF.KET.  MuKsrEit.     Map*.     Post  ;:vo,  i-.?, 

CATHEDRALS    OF   EMGLAHD. 

ijOPinEIlN    CATJI EDlt A ES— AATNCHEATEii.  Sali.hf'Ury,  .E.^eter,,  177.1.1.3, 

IliH-wERTEE,  Caxi,eb.hl5.kv,  AM>CMicHi":CTKK.  lllustratiort»=   'i%'(Hs,  crviwitSva.   24#. 

J' '.sTEitN  CATHEDEAE8— ().\Foia».  Fn'EiiBoiiouGii,  Ely,  Noewich.  axd 

Lt.HCOLK.     iihistrations.     Crown  Svo.     l:;.t 

\VESTERN  OATH EDEAES— liiiisTOL,  Gloucester,  IlEttF.j-oi;i),  ^Voi!,cf>-ti!R, 

AKi>  L!«'HFiKLD.    lOu.stratious.    Cri.-v.u  Svo.     lik. 
Ni;i.TiIEHN  EATHEDRAES-YoitK,  E.!Fcy,  Duhham,  CAiiLisLis  (Tu>sir:a, 

il*..!-'    .^Pf.  NVUKSTER.      liiu.'itnsi  iOttS.      t  vr.'m.,      '2].:!. 


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